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CLASSICAL  AND  TOPOGRAPHICAL 


TOUR 


THROUGH 


GREECE, 


DURING  THE  YEARS  1801,  1805,  AND  1806. 


BY  EDWARD  DODWELL,  ESQ.  F.  S,A. 

AND  MEMBER  OF  SEVERAL  FOREIGN   ACADEMIES. 


rioAXa  u.£v  Si)  xai  a.XXa.  iSoi  7ij  av  EAXij<n,  la,  Se  xai  olmvo-cu  Sa-vfj-oilos  a£ia. 

Pausan.  b.  5.  c.  10. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 
VOL.   II. 


LONDON: 
PRINTED    FOR    RODWELL    AND    MARTIN, 

NEW  BOND-STREET. 

1819. 


LONDON; 

PKiNTtC   1!Y  THOMAS  DAVISON,  WH1TEFIUARS. 


CONTENTS 


VOL.  II. 


CHAPTER  I. 

General  remarks,  and  miscellaneous  customs — Soil  and  climate  of  Attica — Provisions — Music  of 
modern  Greece — Dances — Complaints  made  at  Constantinople  against  the  Voivode  of  Athens — 
Intrusion  of  the  Disdar  into  the  bath  of  Turkish  women — his  discovery  and  danger — his  flight  to 
/Egina,  and  clandestine  return  to  Athens— his  concealment  in  the  author's  house — Visit  of  the 
author  to  the  Disdar's  wife,  and  their  perilous  situation — Superstitions  of  the  Athenians — The 
Evil,  or  Envious  Eye — Games  of  the  modern  Greeks — Birds  of  Attica — Reptiles — Insects — 
Compendium  of  the  final  history  of  Athens,  and  its  capture  hy  the  Turks  -         Page  1 


CHAPTER  II. 

Journey  toThessaly — Kasha — Castle  of  Phyle — Skourto— To  Kakasialasi — Thebes — Lake  of  Hylika 
— Villages  Sengena  and  Karditza — Ruins  of  Akraiphnion — Ruins  of  a  city,  probably  Kopai — Lake 
Kopais — Village  Kokinos — Katabathra — Village  Martini — Pass  of  Andera — Ruins — Opuntian 
gulf — Likadi  islands — Ruins  of  a  city — Town  of  Talando — Village  Libanatis — Ancient  fort 
near  the  sea — Ruins  of  a  city — Villages  Longaki,  Dervitziali,  Andera,  and  Katomolo— Pass  of 
Thermopylae — Thermal  springs — Mount  Oeta — Khnn  -  -  -  -         51 


CHAPTER  III. 

To  Zetoun,  remains  of  Lamia — Ruins  of  a  city — Village  Stilidi — Ruins  of  Echinos — Villages  of  Rakes 
and  Karditza — Ruins  of  a  city — Villages  of  Makala  and  Pteleo — Ruins  of  a  city — Village  of 

a  2 


iv  CONTENTS. 

Surbis — Ruins  of  a  city — Town  of  Armiro — Village  of  Staikes — Ruins  of  a  city — Remains  of 
Pagasai  and  Demetrias — Castle  and  town  of  Bolo — Mount  Pelion,  and  the  gulf  of  Pagasai — 
Ruins  of  Iolkos — Town  of  Belestina,  and  ruins  of  Plierai — Hyperian  fountain — Villages  of 
Tolelere  and  Mouimos — Larissa — Singular  conduct  of  the  archbishop — Insolence  of  the  Turks 
— River  Peneios — Camels — Mount  Olympos — Villages  of  Baba  and  Ampelachia — Vale  of 
Tempe — Proconsular  inscription  ......        Page  77 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Return  to  Athens — Villages  of  Nikali  and  Enebelere — Plain,  town,  and  acropolis  of  Pharsalia — 
Thaumakia — Magnificent  view  from  it — Zetoun — The  pass  of  Thermopylae,  and  passage  over 
Mount  Oeta — Doris — Ruins  of  two  cities — Lilaea,  and  sources  of  theCephissos — Town  of  Dadi, 
probably  Ampikleia — Remains  of  two  other  cities — Belitza,  (Tithoraia) — Elateia — Chaeroneia 
— Orchomenos — Haliartos — Onchestos — Thebes — Euripos  and  Chalcis  in  Euboea — Situation  of 
Aulis — Plain  ofDelion — Village  of  Boiati — Ruins  of  Oropos — Village  ofMarathona — Plain  of 
Marathon — Great  tumulus — Cave  of  Pan — Monastery  of  Pentele — Arrival  at  Athens  1 18 


CHAPTER  V. 

Departure  from  Athens — To  Eleusis — Mystic  way — Monastery  of  Daphne — Votive  rock — Sacred 
springs — Bethels — Eleusis — Mount  Kerata — Megara — Its  territory  and  ports — Extensive  view 
— Mount  Gerania — Derbeni — Magnificent  view — Isthmus  of  Corinth — Remains  of  the  great 
foss,  and  Isthmian  walls — The  Acrocorinthos — Beauty  of  the  view  from  its  vicinity — Doric- 
temple — Port  Kenchreai — Bath  of  Helena — Ancient  sepulchres  near  the  village  of  Mertesa — 
Excavations — Terra  cotta  vase — Mouth  of  an  ancient  well  at  Corinth         -  -         1 68 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Tour  of  Argolis — To  Nemea — Ruins  of  Kleonai — Cave  of  the  Nemeau  lion — Fount  Langia — Ruins 
of  Nemea — Village  of  Kutchukmadi — Milage  of  Saint  George — Phliasian  plain — Pass  of  Tretos 
— Fine  view  of  the  plain  of  Argos — Ruins  of  Argos — Theatre — Acropolis — Cyclopian  walls — 
Final  history  of  Argos — The  luachos— Source  of  the  Erasinos— Lake  of  Lerna — The  Hydra- 
Mount  Pontinos — Ruins  of  Mycense — Treasury  of  Atreus — Gate  of  the  lions — Acropolis — 
Cyclopian  walls — Ruins  of  Tiryns — Nauplia  .....         205 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Tour  of  Epidauria — Village  of  Ligurio,  and  ruins  on  the  road  to  it — Sacred  forest  of  iEsculapius— 
Temples — Theatre — Other  remains — Village  Epidaura — Ruins  of  Epidauros — Village  of  Ka- 
rangia — Remains  of  an  ancient  city — Village  of  Damala — Ruins  of  Troezen — Acropolis — Pro- 
montory of  Methana — Town  of  Poros — Island  of  Kalauria — Temple  of  Neptune — To  Methana 
— The  isthmus — Promontory — Village — Ruins  of  the  ancient  city — Village  of  Dara — Village  of 
Phanari — Superb  view  of  the  gulf — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city — Telegraphic  beacons — Remains  of 
an  ancient  city — Village  of  Epidaura — Village  of  Piada — Gifts  of  hospitality — Village  of  Agios 
Joannes — Arrival  at  Corinth         -.._...   Page  2.i3 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Departure  from  Corinth — Fertility  of  the  country — Village  of  Basilika — Ruins  of  Sicyon — Theatre 
and  other  remains — Village  of  Xylo-Kastro,  and  ruins  of  an  ancient  city,  probably  JEgira — 
Khan  of  Kamares — Khan  of  Sakratos,  ruins  on  the  way,  and  remains  of  an  ancient  city  at 
Mauro-Petra,  probably  Aigai — River  Sakratas,  the  ancient  Krathis — To  Bostitza — Grandeur 
of  the  scenery — River  Bouraikos — River  Selinos — Ruins  of  iEgion — Great  platanus  and  spring 
— To  Patra — The  rivers  Phoenix  and  Meganitas — Magnificent  view  of  the  gulf — From  Patra  to 
the  khan  of  Palaio-Achaia — River  Kamenitza,  the  ancient  Peiros — Uncertain  situations  of 
Olenos,  Pharai,  and  Dyme — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city  near  the  khan — To  Mauro  Bouna — Ruins 
of  a  castle,  probably  Teichos — Cape  Papa,  anciently  Araxos — From  Mauro  Bouna  to  Capelletto 
— To  Palaiopoli,  Elis — River  Peneios — Ruins  of  Elis — Acropolis — To  Pyrgo — To  Phloka — 
The  Alpheios — To  the  ruins  of  Olympia — The  Kladeos  and  Alpheios — Plain  of  Olympia — 
Beauty  of  the  scenery — Hill  of  Saturn — Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympios — Ancient  armour — Village 
ofMiraka — Description  of  a  Turkish  pyrgos — Earthquake  ...         292 


CHAPTER  IX. 

To  Palaio  Phanari,  probably  Phrixa — Passage  of  the  Alpheios — Ruins  of  Phrixa — To  Brina — 
Kaiapha — Ruins  of  Samikon — River  Anigros — Caves  of  the  Anagriades  and  Atlantides — Khan 
of  Agios  Isodoros — Uncertainty  concerning  the  situatiou  of  Pylos — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city 
near  Strobitza,  probably  Lepreos — River  Boutzi,  the  Neda — Town  of  Arkadia,  the  ancient 
Cyparissiai — To  Kleisoura — To  Constantino — Danger  of  being  taken  by  thieves — Pass  by  a 
castle  which  was  occupied  by  them — See  them  besieged  in  the  village  of  Aletouri — Captain  of 
the  thieves — Plain  of  Messenia — To  Mauro  Mati,  the  ancient  Messene — Ruins  of  a  triangular 
bridge  over  the  confluence  of  two  rivers — Deserted  monastery,  aud  magnificent  view — Village 
of  Mauro  Mati — Mount  Ithome — Ruins — Panoramic  view  from  its  summit — Ruins  of  Messene 
— Walls  of  the  city — Great  gates  ......         339 


VI  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  X. 


From  Messene  to  the  khan  of  Sakona — To  Sinano — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city — Ruins  of  Megalopolis 
— Panoramic  view  of  the  plain — Perilous  situation  of  the  author,  and  conflict  with  the  thieves 
— Unexpected  delivery  from  danger — Pursuit  and  capture  of  several  thieves — Their  punishment 
— Theatre  of  Megalopolis — Ruins  in  the  viciuity — Departure  from  Sinano  in  search  of  the  ruins 
of  Lykosoura — Village  of  Delhi  Hassan — Town  of  Karitena — Kachikolo  Kastro,  probably 
Gortys — Temple  of  Apollo  Epikourios — Sculpture  of  the  temple — Sources  oftheNeda — Mount 
Tetragi,  probably  Lycaeon — Mount  Dioforti,  probably  Kerausios — Ruins  of  a  city,  probably 
Lykosoura — Road  to  Sparta — Village  of  Agie  Basile — Source  of  the  Eurotas — Arrival  at 
Misithra         ---------         Page  367 


CHAPTER  XL 

Ruins  of  Sparta — Panorama — Mount  Taygeton — Remains  of  Amyklai — From  Misithra  to  Tripolitza 
— Mount  Menalion — Ruins  of  Tegea — From  Tripolitza  to  Mantineia — Ruins  of  the  city — To 
Orchomenos — Description  of  its  ruins  ------       403 


CHAPTER  XII. 

To  Zaraka,  on  the  lake  of  Stymphalos — Mount  Oligyrtos,  and  difficulty  of  the  passage — Ruins  of  an 
ancient  city,  probably  Alea — Lake,  town,  and  city  of  Stymphalos — Coins  of  that  town — Kata- 
bathron — To  Phonia,  the  ancient  Pheneos — Plain  of  Pheneos — River  Aroanios — Phonia — 
Ruins  upon  a  high  mountain — Ruins  of  Pheneos — Coins  of  that  town — Lake  of  Pheneos — 
Katabathron — Village  Likourio — Issue  of  the  lake  of  Pheneos,  and  source  of  the  Ladon — 
Kalybia  of  Mazi — Ruins  of  Klitor — Plain  and  mountains — To  the  monastery  of  Megaspelia — 
Ruins  on  the  way — Town  of  Kalabryta — River  Bouraikos — Monastery  of  Megaspelia — 
Its  extraordinary  and  magnificent  situation — To  Curumistris — Fount  Alusson — Ruins  of  an 
ancient  city — To  Patra — Wooded  pass  of  Makellaria,  and  danger  of  being  robbed — Arrival  at 
Patra — To  Messaloggion — Sail  for  Ithaca — Driven  back  by  unfavourable  winds — Island  of 
Basiladi — Promontory  of  Konopeli,  and  ruins  of  a  town,  and  thermal  spring  in  Eleia — Arrival 
at  Ithaca — Accompanied  by  thieves  to  Santa  Maura — Island  of  Saint  Nicolo — Prebcza — Corfu 
— Arrival  at  Messina — Departure  for  Civita  Vecchia — Becalmed  off  the  Lipari  islands — Volcano 
of  Stromboli — Turtles,  nautili,  and  pilot-fish — View  of  the  three  volcanoes,  iEtna,  Stromboli, 
and  Vesuvius,  from  the  same  spot — View  of  the  coast  and  bay  of  Naples — The  Roman  coast — 
Mount  Circcei — Neighbouring  islands— Arrival  at  Civita  Vecchia — Quarantine — Imprisonment 
— Insulting  conduct  of  the  general — Kind  and  friendly  conduct  of  another  Frenchman — Arrival 
at  Rome  ---------  429 


CONTENTS.  vii 


APPENDIX. 

Examples   of  the   different  ways   adopted  by   modern   authors   of  writing   Greek    and 

Turkish  words  ------  Page  471 

Names  of  places  -------         475 

Principal  villages  in  Cephallenia       -  -  -  -  -  -482 

Villages  in  Zakunthos       -....--         483 

Villages  in  the  district  of  Libadea     -.----         484 

Villages  in  the  district  of  Salona       ------         487 

Villages  in  the  district  of  Thebes      -  -  -  -  -  -488 

Villages  in  the  district  of  Zetoun      ------         4y0 

Musical  instruments  at  present  used  in  Attica  ...  -         492 

Weights  and  money  in  Greece  ------         494 

Athenian  fruit  and  vegetables  ------        495 

Prices  of  some  articles  of  consumption  at  Athens  by  the  ocque  -  498 

Specimen  of  a  modern  Greek  letter  -  500 

Translation       -  -  -  -  -  -  501 


INSCRIPTIONS. 

Five  inscriptions  from  Corfu              ---._.  ;-,03 

From  the  ruins  of  Delphi                   -                 -                 -                               ,   -                 -  507 

From  the  ruins  of  Ambrysos  in  Phocis               -                 -                 -                 -                 -  512 

From  Libadea  in  Boeotia                    ------  fold. 

At  Leuka,  near  the  ruins  of  Thespeia,  in  Boeotia               -  513 

At  Eremo  Kastro,  near  the  ruins  of  Thespeia                     -  thid. 

From  the  ruins  of  Thisbe  in  Boeotia                   -                 -                 -                 -                 -  5 1 4 

Alphabet  from  a  lamina  of  lead  found  in  a  sepulchre  at  the  Piraeus                     -                 -  515 
The  same  inscription  in  common  characters       -                 -                 -                 -                 -517 

From  the  island  of  Tenos  -  -  -  -  -  -518 

From  Mitylene,  in  the  island  of  Lesbos              -                 -                 -                 -                 -  519 

Index              ..-_.___.  521 


ERRATA  OF  THE  FIRST  VOLUME. 

Page  3,  line  21,  for  Canidole,  at  the  mouth  of,  read  Canklole,  and  are  situated  at  the  mouth  of. 

4,  12,  for  Apsyrtides,  from  Apsyrtos,  read  Apsyrtides,  which  were  thus  denominated 

from  Apsyrtos. 
7,         23,  for  to  our  left,  read  on  our  left ;  and  for  to  our  right,  read  on  our  right. 
19,  note  2,  for  Labeatis,  read  Labealis. 
33,  line    3,  for  histories,  read  historians. 

36,  22,  for  Lanessa,  read  Lanassa. 

37,  7,  for  pirate  and  his,  read  pirate  with  his. 
37,  note  1,  for  Chroniat,  read  Choniat. 

42,  3,  for  Cheimerian,  read  Cheimerion. 

51,  line    7,  for  Cheimerian,  read  Cheimerion. 

53,  1,  for  Caphalos,  read  Cephalos. 

66,  7,  for  Adrian,  read  Hadrian. 

71,  6,  for  Paciandi,  read  Paciaudi. 

71,         14,  for  horses,  read  /;«/•«. 

75,         18,  for  ecAtcA  are  Me  second  style,  read  wAe'eA  are  /'«  Me  second  style. 

79,         26,  for  Straini,  read  Strani. 
103,         22,  for  if oi,  read  (if  oi. 
116,         31,  for  ilaAaiwy,  read  IlaAaiai 
1 19,  last  line,  for  Meilihos,  read  Meilichos. 

126,  line    3,  for  neglected,  read  neglect. 

127,  note  2,  for  ¥apo,  read  *a0o. 

147,  6,  for  O  Twlripos,  read  Ton  J.ivlr]po{. 

148,  line  last  but  one  of  notes,  for  Catacuzene,  read  Cantacuzene. 
150,  line  12,  for  the  water  for  this  spring-,  read  the  water  of  this  spring. 
150,  16,  for  he  great  Plat  anus,  read  the  great  PI  at  anus. 

154,  4,  for  Me  towns,  read  Me  ancient  towns. 

1 72,  7,  for  Ceada,  read  Keadas. 

190,  note  2,  for  ABPAZAMA,  BPA2AE,  read  ABPAEAM,  ABPAEAS. 

200,  line    3,  for  descends,  read  ascends. 

251,  24,  for  tumultus,  read  tumulus. 

261,         13,  for  0ij/3aj,  read  ©i)(3a(. 

286,  last  line,  for  Reitoi,  read  Rheitoi. 

293,  line    3,  for  comparing  them  with  those  same  marbles,  read  comparing  them  with  the  cast.-; 

from  those  same  marbles. 
319,  16,  for  Olympeion,  read  Olympieion. 

329,  6,  for  posticoum,  read  posticum. 

331,  10,  for  seslabs,  read  */«£«. 

332,  23,  for  pronaos,  read  western  end. 

358,  last  line  but  one,  for  with  ice  plant,  read  wiM  the  ice  plant. 

388,  line    7,  for  cceperat,  read  cmperat. 

476,  1 1,  for  Soteros,  read  SWer. 

483,  1 6,  for  and,  read  «.«. 

501 ,         1.3,  for  ccepere,  read  cospere. 

529,  for  Brauna,  read  Braona. 

584,  I ,  for  candelabra,  read  candelabra. 

VOL.  II. 

94,  19,  for  Kszi  jusy  m5cuf  <pofsoi;  MstrtnjiJoy  ij 

read  Kai  jw-gv  uJtup  pogsoi;  MfinnjiJo?  vj  Tiripil^S- 


ERRATA  OF  THE  SECOND  VOLUME 

Page  4,  line  10,  for  no,  read  very  few. 

12,  head  of  the  page,  for  Athenian  ancient  families,  read  ancient  Athenian  families. 

24,  line    7,  for  the  new  married  pair ,  read  her. 

71,         30,  for  Jeres,  read  Teres. 

76,         11,  for  jEnienses,  read  JEnianes, 

88,         12,  for  Pagasia,  read  Pagasai. 

94,  after  18th  line  the  last  word  of  the  first  line  of  the  quotation  from  Homer  is  omitted  :  it 

should  be  Yiripetys. 
1 14,  line  21,  for  rroXu^noy,  read  iroAi^i'iov. 

143,  25,  for  Deserby,  read  Deserbey. 

144,  18,  for  tortoises:  on  its  banks  they  are  amphibious ;  read  tortoises  on  its  banks:  they 

are  amphibious, 
151,         17,  for  pacha,  read  pasha. 
160,  note  4,  for  bronz,  read  bronze. 
178,  last  line,  for  hy,  read  by. 
220,  note  4,  for  shield,  read  shields. 
256,  line    2,  for  Jero,  read  Zero. 
283,  8,  for  are  informed,  read  we>-«  informed. 

288,  note  1,  after  c.  add  51. 

354,  line  13,  for  those  marauders,  read  the  marauders. 
424,  note  5,  for  typoy,  read  tepov. 


ERRATA  UNDER  THE  PRINTS  OF  VOL.  I. 

Plate  facing  page  220,  for  Chmroneia,  read  Chceroneia. 

356,  for  Pandrosion,  read  Pandroseion. 
503,  for  Phyleon,  read  Phyle  on. 


ERRATA  UNDER  THE  PRINTS  OF  VOL.  II. 

Plate  facing  page  1 14,  for  Opa,  read  Ossa. 

137,  for  Tithoraia,  read  Tithoreea. 
143,  for  Choeroneia,  read  Chceroneia. 


CLASSICAL  AND  TOPOGRAPHICAL 


TOUR     THROUGH     GREECE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

General  remarks,  and  miscellaneous  customs.  Soil  and  climate  of  A  Itica.  Provisions.  Music  of  modern 
Greece.  Dances.  Complaints  made  at  Constantinople  against  the  Yoivode  of  Athens.  Intrusion 
of  the  Disdar  into  the  bath  of  Turkish  women — his  discovery  and  danger — his  flight  to  /Egina,  and 
clandestine  return  to  Athens — his  concealment  in  the  author's  house.  Visit  of  the  author  to  the 
Disdar's  wife,  and  their  perilous  situation.  Superstitions  of  the  Athenians.  The  Evil,  or  Envious 
Eye.  Games  of  the  modern  Greeks.  Birds  of  Attica.  Reptiles — Insects.  Compendium  of  the 
final  history  of  Athens,  and  its  capture  by  the  Turks. 

J.  here  is  no  country  in  the  world,  of  the  same  extent  as  Greece, 
where  the  climate,  soil,  and  aspect,  exhibit  such  discordant  varieties. 
The  pages  of  ancient  history  do  not  bring  us  acquainted  with  any 
region  where  the  forms  of  government  were  so  many,  and  so  diverse,  or 
where  the  genius  of  the  people  displayed  such  opposite  characteristics. 
This  comparatively  diminutive1  tract  of  Europe,  was  distinguished  by 


1  The  length  of  Greece  from  north  to  south  is  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles ;   its  breadth 
two  hundred  and  fifty. — Robertson's  Hist,  of  Greece.     ., 

VOL.   II.  B 


2         CONTRAST  OF  DIFFERENT  STATES  OF  ANCIENT  GREECE. 

the  most  vivid  contrasts.  Here  we  beheld  the  tempestuous,  fluctu- 
ating, and  anarchic  liberty  of  the  Athenians;  and  there  the  rigid,  in- 
flexible, and  lowering  despotism  of  the  Spartans.  In  one  part  our 
admiration  and  our  sympathy  are  excited,  by  the  steady  resistance 
and  unremitting  constancy  of  the  oppressed  Messenians  ;  in  another 
a  different  sentiment  is  produced,  by  the  submissive  apathy  and  un- 
warlike  temper  of  the  Eleians.  We  see  the  Arcadians  leading  a 
hardy  life  of  pastoral  independence;  while  Argos  and  Corinth  are 
subjugated  by  wealth,  and  enervated  by  luxury.  The  Thebans  are 
distinguished  by  their  want  of  fidelity  and  of  patriotism,  or  by 
mighty,  but  evanescent  enterprise.  Epiros,  Acarnania,  and  iEto- 
lia,  are  found  piratical  and  uncivilized ;  while  the  voluptuous  and 
hospitable  Thessalians  are  signalized  by  their  turbulence  and  their 
treachery. 

The  Athenians  encouraged  trade  and  cherished  the  arts  ;  the  Spar- 
tans forbad  the  one,  and  despised  the  other.  The  former,  who 
abounded  in  orators,  were  conspicuous  for  a  copious  volubility  of 
speech  ;  while  the  latter  were  proverbial  for  their  taciturnity.  The 
Athenians  accumulated  wealth  and  indulged  in  luxury ;  the  Spar- 
tans affected  poverty  and  temperance,  and  forbad  theatrical  repre- 
sentations. The  Athenian  women  were  mild  and  domestic,  and 
were  seldom  seen  in  public:  the  Spartan  females  exhibited  more 
bold  and  masculine  traits,  and,  associated  in  the  ardent  competition 
for  strength  and  activity  that  Avas  seen  in  the  public  games,  their 
characters  acquired  an  extraordinary  hardihood,  unsuited  to  the 
elegant  softness  of  the  female  mind.  This  singular  contrast  of  man- 
ners and  feelings  between  the  two  principal  nations  in  Greece,  is 
energetically  portrayed  in  the  speech  of  the  Corinthians,  in  the 
Lacedaemonian  Assembly,  concerning  the  Potideans,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Peloponnesian  war.1  Athens,  however,  surpassed 
the  other  states  of  Greece,  as  much  as  Greece  itself  surpassed  the 


:Thucjd.  b.  1.  c.  68. 


PATRIOTISM  OF  THE  GREEKS.  3 

other  surrounding  nations.    Strabo1  rapturously  exclaims,  that  Attica 
was  the  work  of  the  gods,  and  of  the  ancient  heroes :  i?  ya.%  Attom? 
6euv  so-Tt  xTKrpoc.  Kxi  -srgoyovuv  Hguuv.     The  praise  of  Cicero2  is  not  less  re- 
markable:   "  Unde  Humanitas,  Doctrina,  Religio,  Fruges,  Jura, 
Leges  ortse  atque   in   omnes    Terras   distributee   putantur."      The 
Athenians  were  regarded  as  patterns  of  excellence,  and  models  for 
imitation;  not  merely  in  the  mechanical  sciences  of  architecture, 
sculpture,  and  painting,  but  in  the  more  noble  and  exalted  attain- 
ments of  the  mind.     Their  exertions  were  marked  with  a  liberal  and 
enthusiastic  spirit  peculiar  to  themselves  :    "  they  excelled  in  the 
temperate  dignity  of  style,  the  graceful  proportions  of  art,  the  forms 
of  visible  and  intellectual  beauty,  the  just  delineation  of  character 
and   passion,  the  rhetoric  of  narrative  and  argument,    the  regular 
fabric  of  epic  and  dramatic  poetry,  in  moral  and  political  writings."3 
But  while  we  admire  their  noble  deeds  and  transcendant  qualities, 
their  history  is  often  deformed,  and  their  moral  lustre  obscured,  by 
instances  of  cruelty  and  ingratitude.     But  what  above  all  things  re- 
calls our  admiration  for  the  Greeks  in  general,  is  that  strong  and  in- 
delible attachment  to,  their  country,  which  extended,  not  only  to 
their  native  soil,  but  even  to  the  other  Grecian  states,  with  which, 
in  the  contests  for  political  pre-eminence,  they  were  frequently  at 
variance.  As  soon,  however,  as  a  common  cause  required  the  united 
strength  of  all  parties,  an  end  was  put  to  the  jealousies  of  the  neigh- 
bouring states,  and  to  the  rivalry  of  politicians,  and  all  united  to 
defend  their  country.     This  noble  principle  of  patriotic  virtue  was 
most  conspicuous  in   their  wars   with    the   Persians.      The   Athe- 
nians afforded  copious  assistance  to  their  great  rivals  and  powerful 
enemies,  the  Spartans,  when  their  capital  was  destroyed  by  an  earth- 
quake; and  when  the  Spartans  had  taken  Athens,  and  were  advised 
to  destroy  their  natural  enemy,  they  refused  to  "  pluck  out  the  eye 


1  B.  9.  p.  396.  2  Orat.  pro  L.  Flacco,  s.  26. 

3  Gibbon's  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire. 

B   2 


4         SUPERIORITY  OF  THE  GREEKS  IN  ARTS  AND  SCIENCES. 

of  Greece/'  When  the  city  of  Rhodes  had  been  destroyed  by  an 
earthquake,  the  states  of  Greece  vied  with  each  other  in  the  extent 
of  their  liberality,  and  thought  themselves  honoured  when  their 
presents  were  accepted  by  the  Rhodians.  The  relation  given  by 
Polybius1  of  this  general  patriotic  feeling,  is  highly  curious  and  in- 
teresting. 

The  early  history  of  Greece  is  enveloped  in  deep  obscurity.  The 
Dryopes,  Caucones,  Aones,  Leleges,  Thracians,  the  Pelasgians  and 
Curetes,  who  at  different  periods  are  said  to  have  been  masters  of  this 
country,  have  probably  left  no  remains  of  their  arts  or  sciences  to  pos- 
terity. Their  history  is  nearly  unknown,  but  we  may  conjecture  that 
they  were  uncultivated  savages,  or  wandering  and  warlike  shepherds, 
who  made  a  casual  and  temporary  residence,  wherever  they  were  at- 
tracted by  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  abundance  of  water,  or  by  con- 
siderations of  local  security  and  protection.  There  are  however  rea- 
sons to  conclude,  that  the  Pelasgians  and  the  Curetes  distinguished 
themselves  by  some  scientific  proficiency  in  the  arts  ;  and  the  former 
particularly  in  military  architecture  and  fortifications,  as  the  solid  and 
magnificent  remains  which  are  still  to  be  observed  in  the  various 
countries  that  were  colonized  by  the  Pelasgians,  may,  with  every 
appearance  of  probability,  be  ascribed  to  that  warlike  and  wandering 
people.  The  Romans  were  not  only  indebted  to  the  Greeks  for 
their  knowledge  in  the  elegant  arts  of  architecture,  sculpture,  paint- 
ing, and  music,  but  also  for  their  legislative  code,  as  well  as  for  the 
majority  of  their  religious  rites  and  ceremonies.  Even  when  Rome 
had  abandoned  the  affected  simplicity  of  stern  republicanism,  and 
had  arrived  at  its  highest  pitch  of  imperial  splendour  and  power, 
Grecian  artists  were  employed  in  Italy  in  preference  to  any  others; 
and  the  most  beautiful  monuments  that  still  decorate  the  ancient 


'  B.  5.  See  also  in  the  same  book  the  speech  of  Agelaos  of  Naupaktos  to  Philip  the 
Second,  of  Macedon. 


SOIL  AND  PRODUCE  OF  ATTICA.  5 

capital  of  Italy,  are  of  Grecian  workmanship.  The  Romans  never 
attempted  to  emulate  their  Athenian  masters.1 

The  soil  of  Attica  is  of  a  light,  calcarious,  and  arid  quality :  and 
so  scantily  supplied  with  water,  that  in  its  most  flourishing  period 
the  Athenians  were  enabled  to  maintain  only  a  small2  body  of  ca- 
valry, on  account  of  the  want  of  pasture  :  and  in  case  of  necessity 
they  called  in  the  Thessalian  horse.  Thucydides3  and  Diodorus  Sicu- 
lus4  call  Attica  unfertile ;  and  we  know  that  it  derived  a  great  part 
even  of  its  necessary  articles  of  subsistence  from  foreign  countries  ; 
particularly  from  the  islands  of  Eubcea  and  Cyprus,  and  the  fertile 
coast  about  the  Euxine.  Oil  was  the  only  commodity  of  importance 
that  was  permitted  to  be  exported  ;5  and  even  this  was  supposed  not 
originally  to  have  been  a  native6  product  of  the  Attic  soil.  But  we 
must  recollect,  that  formerly  no  expedient  was  left  untried,  by  which 
agriculture  might  be  rendered  prosperous ;  and  that  at  present  no 
violence  is  omitted  by  which  it  can  be  discouraged. 

In  iEgypt,  where  even  the  symbols  and  implements  of  cultivation 
are  seen  so  frequently  represented  on  their  temples  and  obelisks, 
agriculture  was  held  in  a  kind  of  religious  veneration.  Bacchus, 
under  the  name  of  Osiris,  Ceres,  under  that  of  Isis,7  and  the  ox 
itself,  under  that  of  Apis,  received  the  enthusiastic  adoration  of  the 


1  The  only  part  of  architecture  in  which  the  Romans  surpassed  the  Greeks,  was  in  their 
aqueducts  and  cloacas. 

2  Thucydides  says  the  Athenians  had  only  1,200  horsemen,  b.  2.  c.  2. 

3  B.  I.e.  2.  *  B.  4.  5  Plutarch's  Life  of  "Solon. 

6  According  to  Pindar,  Hercules  brought  the  olive  to  Greece,  from  the  source  of  the 
Danube,  Olymp.  3.  v.  24.  The  kotivoq,  or  wild  olive,  grows  in  most  parts  of  Greece,  as  was 
the  case  in  very  early  times.  In  the  sixth  Olympiad,  the  Delphic  oracle  ordered  that  the 
victors  at  the  Olympic  games  should  be  crowned  with  it.  Daikles,  the  Messenian,  in  the 
seventh  Olympiad,  was  the  first  who  was  thus  crowned  ;  see  Clavier  prem.  terns  de  la 
Greece,  vol.  2.  p.  205,  who  cites  Phlegon.  p.  148.  and  Dion.  Halicarn.  Ant.  Rom.  b.  I. 
See  also  Theophrast.  Hist.  Plant,  b.  4.  c.  14.  The  Kotinos  was  early  known  in  Italy,  and, 
according  to  Strabo,  the  tomb  of  Polites,  near  Temesa,  in  the  country  of  the  Brutii,  was  sur- 
rounded by  them,  b.  6.  p.  255.  7  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  I.e.  13. 


b  ANCIENT  POPULATION  OF  ATTICA. 

grateful  Egyptians.  Greece,  in  imitating  the  principal  part  of 
Egyptian  worship,  followed  her  example  in  the  encouragement 
which  she  gave,  and  in  the  respect  which  she  evinced,  for  agricul- 
tural pursuits.  Throughout  the  greater  part  of  Turkey  necessity  is 
almost  the  only  motive  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil ;  the  husband- 
man is  outraged  and  despised :  and  as  in  great  part  of  Italy,  Spain, 
and  Portugal,  their  agricultural  practice  is  so  very  deficient,  that  they 
lose  half  the  profit  of  their  land  ;  and  were  it  not  for  the  exuberant 
fertility  of  the  soil,  the  labour  would  not  be  compensated  by  the 
crop.  There  were  however  in  the  narrow  and  sterile  country  of 
Attica,  a  hundred  and  seventy-four  demoi,  or  towns,  besides  the 
capital.  Its  population  is  uncertain  ;  but  I  should  conceive,  that, 
considering  the  number  of  the  demoi,  it  could  not  have  contained 
in  its  flourishing  period,  less  than  a  million  and  a  half  of  inhabi- 
tants, including  strangers  and  slaves.  AVe  know  that  it  was  so  over- 
stocked that  it  was  obliged  to  diminish  the  superabundance  of  its 
population,  by  sending  out  many  colonies  to  distant  countries. 
According  to  Plutarch,1  the  number  of  true  Athenian  citizens  in 
the  time  of  Pericles,  was  fourteen  thousand  and  forty.  In  the  time 
of  Demetrius  the  Phalerian,  there  were,  according  to  Athenaeus,2 
20,000  citizens  in  Attica,  besides  10,000  strangers,  and  400,000 
slaves.  Some  however  seem  of  opinion,  that  this  number  was  con- 
tained within  the  capital  itself.  Aristophanes3  asserts,  that  there 
were  80,000  inhabitants  in  Athens,  besides  the  slaves  ;  and  Plato4 
says,  that  amongst  the  citizens  of  Attica,  there  were  20,000  abli  to 
bear  arms.  Athens  indeed  might  easily  have  contained  half  a 
million  of  inhabitants  within  the  whole  circuit  of  its  Avails,  including 
the  ports ;  and  we  know  that  the  houses  were  crowded,  and  some- 
times of  large  dimensions.  According  to  Demosthenes,5  some  habita- 
tions in  Athens  surpassed  in  beauty  the  edifices  of  Pericles.     This 


1  Life  of  Pericles.  »  Deipnosoph.  b.  6.  3  Eccles. 

4  Critias.  5  Olynth. 


POWER  AND  WEALTH  OF  ANCIENT  ATHENS.  7 

however  was  a  rare  case,  as  the  houses  were  in  general  small,  and 
accompanied  as  in  the  present  day  Avith  over-hanging  galleries.1  The 
streets  were  dark,  narrow,  and  irregular. 

The  interesting  historical  and  statistical  speech  of  Pericles,2  previ- 
ous to  the  Peloponnesian  war,  exhibits  a  splendid  picture  of  the 
power,  prosperity,  and  opulence  of  this  diminutive  country.  The 
sea  coast  of  Attica  was  guarded  by  300  ships ;  1,200  cavalry,  1,600 
archers,  and  13,000  pikemen,  were  ready  to  defend  the  country  ; 
not  counting  the  16,000  troops  who  were  to  guard  the  walls  of 
Athens,  and  the  forts  of  Attica,  nor  those  who  were  stationed  in  the 
colonial  garrisons.  They  could  call  to  their  assistance  a  thousand3 
tributary  towns,  and  command  the  fleets  of  Chios,  Lesbos,  and 
Corcyra.  And  their  treasury  contained  9>700  talents,4  besides  a 
great  quantity  of  gold  in  the  temples  of  the  gods. 

In  addition  to  these  acquired  riches,  Attica  possessed  some  local 
advantages,  which  to  a  certain  degree  compensated  for  the  sterility 
of  its  soil.  The  silver  mines  of  Laurion,  added  to  the  wealth  of  the 
treasury,  as  well  as  to  that  of  individuals,  and  those  sumptuous 
edifices,  which  constituted  the  pride  of  the  Athenians,  and  the 
admiration  of  the  present  day,  owed  their  origin  to  the  marble 
quarries  of  Pentelikon.  The  Athenian  ports  were  numerous  and 
good ;  and  even  their  ungrateful  soil,  and  their  narrow  territory, 
were  useful  in  exciting  the  inhabitants  to  extend  their  commerce, 
and  multiply  their  settlements,  by  which  they  gratified  at  once  their 
taste  for  luxury,  and  their  love  of  power. 

The  air  of  Attica  was  always  esteemed  for  its  purity ;  and  it  is  still 
the  best  in  Greece.  Its  extreme  dryness  has  greatly  contributed  to 
the  admirable  preservation  of  the  Athenian  edifices ;  for  where  they 


1  Aristot.  Econom.  b.  2.  «  Thucyd.  b.  2.  c.  13. 

3  Aristoph.  Vesp.  v.  705.  A  thousand  is  probably  a  poetical  manner  of  expressing  a  great 
many. 

*  Thucyd.  b.  2.  c.  13.  The  Attic  talent  was  worth  about  two  hundred  and  twenty-five 
pounds  sterling  ;  by  which  it  appears  that  the  Athenian  treasury  contained  2,182,500  pounds. 


8  CLIMATE  OF  ATTICA. 

have  escaped  the  unhallowed  violence  of  Christians,  Turks,  and 
Goths,  they  appear  as  fresh  as  if  they  had  been  lately  finished. 

The  heat  of  the  Athenian  summer  is  mitigated  by  the  regularity 
of  the  wind  ;  which,  rising  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  blows 
with  refreshing  strength  during  a  great  part  of  the  day  ;  generally 
from  some  point  between  west  and  north.  Plutarch1  calls  them 
Etesian  winds ;  and  says  that  Themistocles2  would  not  begin  the 
battle  of  Salamis,  until  that  time  of  the  day  when  the  wind  always 
blows  fresh  from  the  sea.  We  may  therefore  infer  that  the  battle 
began  about  ten  in  the  forenoon. 

According  to  Polybius,3  a  ship  might  sail  from  Cephallenia  to 
Messenia  in  one  day,  when  favoured  by  the  Etesian  gales.  It  is  evi- 
dent therefore  that  they  blew  nearly  from  the  north-west.  For  a 
few  days,  when  I  was  at  Athens,  in  the  month  of  August,  1805,  and 
the  wind  did  not  blow,  the  heat  became  intolerable.  Fahrenheit's 
thermometer  rising  to  105°  within  doors  ;  whereas  on  the  days  when 
the  sea  breeze  set  in  as  usual,  it  seldom  rose  higher  than  85°. 

It  would  appear  from  a  passage  in  Aulus  Gellius,4  that  the  Etesian 
winds  blew  from  different  points  in  different  quarters  of  the  globe. 
"  Etesias  et  Prodromi  appellantur,  qui  certo  tempore  anni  quam 
canis  oritur,  ex  alia,  atque  alia  parte  caeli  spirant."  In  some  coun- 
tries these  were  attended  with  constant  rain  ;  and  in  others  with  a 
long  continuance  of  dry  weather. 

The  productions  of  Attica  were  compared  for  their  excellence  with 
those  of  Rhodes,  by  Lynceus  of  Samos.5 

The  waters  though  not  abundant  are  pure  and  light.6  The  olives 
and  the  honey  are  still  the  best  in  the  world.    The  wine  is  indifferent 


1  Life  of  Dion.  °-  Life  of  Themistocles.  3  B.  5.  p.  354. 

*  Noct.  Att.  b.  2.  c.  22.     See  also  the  note  of  Casaubon  on  Strabo,  b.  3.  p.  144.  note  4. 

Aristot.  Meteor.  2.  16.  Poljb.  b.  4.  and  5.  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  3.  Strabo,  b.  2,  3,  and  15.  Plin. 

Nat.  Hist.  b.  2.  c.  47.  Columel.  b.2.  c.27.  Michael  Glyca,  Ann.  Pars.  1.  p.  7.  Paris  edit. 

5  See  Athenaeus  Deipnosoph.  b.  14.  c.  13.  and  19. 

6  Athenaeus  Deipnosoph.  b.  2.  c.  5. 


PRODUCE  OF  ATTICA.  9 

and  impregnated  with  rosin.  The  meat  is  bad,  owing  to  the  want 
of  pastures.  The  common  food  is  goat,  kid,  and  lamb.  Game  is 
plentiful  and  good.  Fish  is  scarce,  on  account  of  the  few  fishing 
boats  employed.  The  favourite  and  most  plentiful  fish  on  the  coast 
of  Attica  is  the  Pelamydes,  or  rfyXa^u?,1  which  is  called  by  its  ancient 
name.  It  is  the  scomber-pelamis2  of  the  Latins.  The  oysters  are  of 
a  large  size ;  and  both  the  fish  and  the  shell  are  beautifully  coloured. 
They  are  called  gaidarapoda3  by  the  Greeks,  from  their  resemblance 
to  the  form  of  an  ass's  foot. 

The  provisions  of  the  Greek  islands  are  far  superior  to  those  of  the 
continent.  The  meat  is  of  a  different  quality,  and  the  wine  is  seldom 
impregnated  with  rosin.  Most  of  the  wines  of  the  Archipelago  are 
excellent;  particularly  those  of  Tenedos,  Cyprus,  Tenos,  Ikaria, 
Samos,  Andros,  Chios,  and  Crete.  The  wines  of  the  Ionian  islands 
are  also  extremely  fine.  The  only  good  wines  of  the  Grecian  con- 
tinent are  those  of  the  plain  of  Sparta,  Pheneos,  and  Ligurio,  near 
Epidauros  in  Argolis. 

The  corn  is  ripe  in  Attica  about  twenty-five  days  sooner  than  in 
the  Morea  and  in  Crete.  This  is  probably  owing  to  the  nature  of  the 
earth,  and  the  abundance  of  nitre  with  which  the  Attic  soil  is  im- 
pregnated. I  have  seen  corn,  cotton,  and  tobacco,  growing  amongst 
the  ruins  of  ancient  cities,  in  places  where  it  would  appear  impossi- 
ble for  the  plough  to  work,  or  for  vegetation  to  exist ;  and  where  there 
is  scarcely  any  soil,  and  little  else  than  small  stones  and  broken  tiles. 

Their  ploughs  are  drawn  by  two  oxen,  and  penetrate  very  little 
into  the  ground.  The  corn,  instead  of  being  threshed,  is  trodden 
out  by  horses.  The  horse,  who  is  held  by  a  long  rope,  runs  round 
upon  an  even  rocky  spot  where  the  corn  is  scattered.  There  are 


I  See  Strabo,  b.  7.  p.  320.  b.  12.  p.  545,  549.    He  mentions  the  Qwvt,  and  the  IL)\a^i/f 
as  different  fish.  2  Supposed  to  be  the  Tunny  when  young. 

3  Belon.  Voyage  du  Levant.     See  also  Valmont,  Diet.  d'Hist.  Nat.  torn.  4. 
VOL.  II.  C 


10  TREADING  OF  CORN. 

three  principal  treading  floors  at  Athens;  which  are  at  the  temple 
of  Jupiter  Olympios,  the  temple  of  Theseus,  and  the  Pnyx. 

The  harvest  is  completely  finished,  and  the  corn  all  trodden,  about 
the  15th  of  August.  In  the  island  of  Ceylan,1  and  at  Adrianople,2 
the  corn  is  trodden  by  oxen  :  and  in  some  parts  of  Italy,  they  use 
both  oxen  and  horses  for  that  purpose;  but  more  commonly  the 
latter ;  and  sometimes  ten  horses  are  employed  at  the  same  time, 
in  one  treading-ground.  Horses  are  also  made  use  of  for  the  same 
purpose  in  some  parts  of  France. 

That  corn  was  trodden  by  oxen  in  the  earliest  ages  we  see  by 
one  of  the  laws  of  Moses ;  where  it  is  written — "  Thou  shalt  not 
muzzle  the  mouth  of  the  ox  that  treadeth  out  the  corn/'3  The 
same  custom  is  alluded  to  in  the  beautiful  simile  of  Homer  ;4  who 
compares  the  carnage  which  Achilles  made  amongst  his  Trojan  foes, 
to  the  treading  of  corn  by  oxen : 

iQf  $'  ore  rig  lev^y  jSo«?  upirwxq  BvpopnTUTrovg 
Tpi&eptevc&i  Kpt  Xsuxov  iDTpoyaXu  tv  aXurj 

PtpKpOi  T£   XiTTT     SyeVOVTO  QiOUV  V7T0  7T0<rCT    EpiftVXCtlV. 

"  As  with  autumnal  harvest  cover'd  o'er, 
And  thick  bestrown,  lies  Ceres'  sacred  floor ; 
When  round  and  round,  with  never-wearied  pain 
The  trampling  steers  beat  out  th'  unnumber'd  grain."5 

Mr.  Hamilton,  in  his  learned  work  on  iEgypt,  mentions  some 
catacombs,  near  Mount  Dgibbel  Skeikh  Said ;  upon  the  sculptured 
parts  of  which,  asses  and  oxen  are  exhibited  in  the  act  of  treading 
the  corn.  Pigs  were  employed  in  that  country  for  the  same  pur- 
pose, according  to  Herodotus.6 


1  Knox's  Voyage  to  Ceylan.  :  Lady  M.  W.  Montague's  Letters  on  Turkey. 

3  Deuteronomy,  c.  25.  v.  4.  and  St.  Paul's  first  Epist.  to  the  Corinthians,  c.  9.  v.  9. 
*  Iliad.  20.  v.  495.  5  Pope.  6  B.  2.  c.  14. 


ANCIENT  ATHENIAN  FAMILIES.  11 

The  Athenian  corn  is  mingled  with  a  great  quantity  of  the  bane- 
ful herb  lolium,1  which  among  the  Greeks  retains  the  ancient  name 
cti(>oc ;  of  which  a  long  account  is  given  by  Theophrastus2  and  Ga- 
lenus.3  The  former4  terms  it  very  properly,  a»^«  (Sapu  xui  xeQuXuXyig. 
If  the  wheat  is  not  cleaned  and  picked  before  it  is  ground  into  flour, 
it  is  so  much  vitiated  by  the  darnel,  as  to  occasion  when  eaten  vio- 
lent pains  in  the  head,  and  a  giddiness,  which  resembles  the  effects 
of  intoxication.  The  Athenian  bread  is  generally  gritty,  and  some- 
times mixed  with  bean  flour,  which  makes  it  heavy  and  unwhole- 
some, while  it  communicates  an  unpalatable  taste.  Strabo5  mentions 
a  plant,  called  Qpvov,  which  grew  among  the  corn  in  Triphyllia,  and 
which  Avas  not  less  noxious  than  the  aipx.  This  was  probably  the 
car  ax  of  the  Latins,  or,  as  some  imagine,  the  solarium  insanimi,  or 
night-shade.  According  to  Afhenseus,6  Antiphanes  asserts,  that 
Attica  produced  the  best  bread  in  the  world. 

As  in  the  time  of  Ion,7  the  modern  Athenians  are  divided  into  the 
four  distinct  classes  of  cultivators,  craftsmen,  military,  and  priests. 
The  Albanians  cultivate  the  land  ;  the  Greeks  engage  in  commerce 
and  the  mechanical  arts.  The  Turks  garrison  the  city,  and  smoke. 
The  priests  do  nothing  !  Some  few  Turks  indeed  direct  their  atten- 
tion to  commerce  and  the  arts;  but  not  one  of  them  tills  the  ground. 

In  other  parts  of  Greece,  particularly  in  Eleia,  where  the  Greek 
population  is  small,  the  Turks  make  a  virtue  of  necessity,  and  be- 
come industrious  husbandmen. 

There  are  few  families  in  Athens,  or  indeed  in  any  other  part  of 


1  Infelix  lolium  et  steriles  nascuntur  avenae.  Virgil  Bucolic.  Eclog.  5.  v.  37.  It  is  the 
Darnel,  Cockle,  or  Ray,  of  the  English;  the  Gioglio  of  the  Italians,  and  the  Ivraie  of  the 
French. 

e  Hist.  Plant,  b.  2.  c.  5.  3  De  Aliment.  Facult.  last  chapter. 

*  B.  8.  c.  5.  s  B.  8.  p.  344.  6  Deipnosoph.  b.  3.  c.  2. 

7  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  383.  According  to  Plutarch,  the  Athenian  tribes  took  their  names  from 
their  different  occupations.  The  military  were  the  Hoplitae  ;  the  craftsmen,  Ergataj;  the 
cultirators,  Teleontes ;  and  the  shepherds  and  graziers,  Aigicores  ;  Life  of  Solon. 

c  2 


12  ATHENIAN  ANCIENT  FAMILIES. 

Greece,  which  have  classical  names,  or  which  can  trace  their  genea- 
logy to  a  more  remote  period  than  the  conquest  of  the  eastern 
empire. 

A  family  at  Athens,  by  the  name  of  Palaiologos,  boasts  its  descent 
from  the  Grecian  emperors  of  that  name;  and  Zakunthos  also 
possesses  another  family  of  the  same  name. 

The  Palaiologi  of  Athens  are  in  circumstances  too  humble  for 
their  elevated  appellation.  They  possess  a  good  house,  which  they 
are  happy  to  let  to  strangers  upon  very  moderate  terms. 

This  family  seems  to  have  been  in  better  circumstances  in  the  time 
that  Guillatiere  travelled  in  Greece  r1  he  says  that  a  daughter  of  that 
illustrious  house  was  at  that  period  married  to  a  bold  and  vicious 
Frenchman  from  Lyons,  named  Giraud.  There  was  another  Athe- 
nian family,  by  name  Pittaki,  which  boasted  the  antiquity  of  its 
ancestry.  The  last  of  this  house  was  put  to  death  not  many  years 
ago,  by  Haliadji-Agha,  surnamed  the  cruel  Voivode,  for  resisting 
his  arbitrary  power. 

The  name  of  the  British  agent  at  Athens,  is  Komatiano  ;  but  he 
is  always  distinguished  by  the  title  of  Logothetes,  which  is  hereditary 
in  some  of  the  Grecian  families.  The  office  of  Logothetes,2  consists 
in  attending  the  synod  once  a  month,  and  in  giving  his  opinion  and 
advice  in  ecclesiastical  affairs.  Another  family  at  Libadea  enjoys 
the  same  title ;  which  has  indeed  superseded  the  family  name,  by 
which  they  are  never  called,  and  which  themselves  never  use.  The 
archbishop  of  Athens  enjoys  a  good  salary  ;  but  his  see  has  lost 
no  small  part  of  its  former  splendour.  Codinus  calls  it  the  first  in 
Greece.     E|ap%o?  Trourys  EAXaJo?.     The  best  ecclesiastical  preferment 


1  In  1669,  Athens,  ancient  and  modern. 
*  According  to  Cinnamus,   the   Logothetes  was   the   same  as   Cancellarius,    Hist.  b.  4. 
p.  82.  Paris  edit.  Codinus  says  it  was  the  duty  of  the  Logothetes  to  act  for  the  Patriarch  in 

instructing  the  people,   Aoyoferi/e   toiuiv  Xoyove  /car/JXJjriicovc  irpog  tov  \aov  SiKawg  tov  ira.rpia.pxov, 

de  Offic.  Constantinop.  c.  1.  p.  5.  Paris  edit. 


RELIGIOUS  DISSENSIONS.  13 

in  Attica,  after  the  arch-bishopric,  is  the  abbacy  of  the  monastery 
of  Pentele. 

The  inferior  clergy  of  the  Greek  church  are  generally  charac- 
terized by  a  considerable  portion  of  ignorance  and  bigotry.  They 
hate  and  despise  all  other  religious  persuasions ;  but  their  theological 
rancour  is  principally  directed  against  Roman  Catholics,  whom  they 
abhor  more  than  the  Mohamedans !  It  is  singular  also  that  the 
Othmans  or  Sunnites  have  a  greater  prejudice  against  the  Persian 
Shiites,  or  followers  of  Aly,  than  against  the  Jews  and  Christians. 

In  some  of  the  Grecian  islands  the  population  is  divided  between 
the  Greek  patriarchal  church,  and  that  of  Rome;  amongst  whom  the 
most  violent  and  indecent  controversies  frequently  arise.  When  their 
dissensions  become  very  furious,  the  Turks  make  both  parties  pay 
a  fine,  and  then  leave  them  to  settle  the  difference  as  well  as  they 
can.  "  Fra  due  littiganti,  il  terzo  gode." 1 

The  Greeks  hold  in  abomination  the  numerous  statues  and  paint- 
ings resembling  life,  which  are  seen  in  the  churches  of  other  countries. 

I  sometimes  endeavoured  to  persuade  them  that  there  was  no 
more  harm  in  good  paintings,  than  in  the  vile  daubs  which  disgrace 
the  churches  of  Greece,  and  which  are  purposely  executed  without 
effect  of  light  and  shade,  in  order  that  they  may  resemble  nothing 
human  or  divine.  But  they  affirm  that  this  very  circumstance  con- 
stitutes their  merit,  as  they  have  no  appearance  of  reality  ;  while,  on 
the  contrary,  those  in  Catholic  churches  are  such  exact  representa- 
tions of  life,  that  they  appear  to  be  breathing  realities.  "  The 
bolder  forms  of  sculpture  in  brass  or  in  marble,  which  peopled  the 
temples  of  antiquity,  are  offensive  to  the  fancy  or  conscience  of  the 
Christian  Greeks  ;  and  a  smooth  surface  of  colour  has  ever  been 
esteemed  a  more  decent  and  harmless  mode  of  imitation.  Your 
scandalous  figures  stand  quite  out  from  the  canvass,  they  are  as 
bad  as  a  group  of  statues  !"     It  was  thus,  says  Gibbon,  that  the 


1  iEsop's  Fable  of  the  kite,  the  frog,  and  the  mouse. 


14  STATE  OF  THE  GREEK  CLERGY. 

ignorance  and  bigotry  of  a  Greek  priest  applauded  the  pictures 
of  Titian,  which  he  had  ordered  but  refused  to  accept! 

Although  the  fasts  in  Greece  are  remarkably  long  and  severe,  yet 
the  fattest  and  the  stoutest  people  are  seen  amongst  the  priests ; 
and  their  appearance  demonstrates  that  they  are  well  fed.  It  is 
certain  that  they  neither  follow  the  rigid  examples  of  the  ancient 
priests  of  Samos,  nor  of  the  Hierophants  of  Athens  ;  in  short, 
their  chastity  is  not  proverbial,  nor  are  their  morals  without  a 
stain  ! 

A  Greek  priest  can  only  marry  once  ;  his  bride  must  be  a  virgin  ; 
and  he  cannot  afterwards  aspire  to  a  higher  dignity  in  the  church 
than  that  of  proto-papas. 

A  Greek  monk,  who  resided  at  Prebesa  in  Epiros,  and  who  took 
care  of  the  church  of  Saint  George,  which  is  in  the  vicinity,  used 
to  derive  considerable  emolument  from  the  religious  charity  of  the 
Greeks  of  the  surrounding  country  who  visited  the  church,  and  paid 
their  devoirs  to  the  miraculous  picture  on  the  Saint's  Day.  One 
year  it  happened  to  rain  incessantly  during  the  whole  of  the  day,  so 
as  to  suspend  the  accustomed  visits  of  the  numerous  devotees.  The 
disappointed  monk,  having  prayed  in  vain  to  the  Saint  to  stop  the 
rain,  at  last  in  a  rage  took  his  picture  from  the  church,  and  exposed 
it  to  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  exclaiming,  "  I  have  served  you 
all  the  year  to  get  a  little  money  on  your  day  ;  and  in  return  you 
permit  it  to  rain,  and  prevent  good  Christians  from  saluting  you 
with  their  homage,  and  me  with  their  alms.  Take  therefore  the  rain 
for  your  pains  I"  Somewhat  similar  to  this  is  the  story  in  the  fable, 
of  one  who  prayed  to  Jupiter  to  assist  him  in  killing  a  flea;  and 
broke  his  statue  because  he  did  not  comply  with  the  request. 

Nothing  is  so  inimical  to  the  regeneration  of  the  Greeks,  as  the 
overbearing  power,  and  extreme  bigotry  and  ignorance,  of  their 
spiritual  pastors,  who  exercise  a  double  tyranny  over  the  minds  and 
bodies  of  their  flocks  ;  nipping  in  the  bud  the  force  of  their  native 
genius,  and  reducing  nature  by  long  and  severe  mortifications. 
But,  although  this  is  the  general  failing  of  the  Greek  priests,  it  is 


INSINCERITY  OF  ITALIAN  COMPLIMENTS.  15 

fortunately  not  without  some  exceptions;  and  there  are  many  of 
their  clergy,  who,  for  humanity,  wisdom,  and  devotion,  would  be  an 
honour  to  any  country. 

Nor  must  we  ever  omit  this  important  consideration, — that  almost 
all  the  faults  of  the  Greeks  are  owing  to  their  present  cruel  oppres- 
sion ;  and  that,  if  under  such  circumstances,  they  are  not  much 
worse  than  other  nations,  there  is  every  reason  to  suppose,  that  they 
would  be  inferior  to  no  other  people  in  wisdom  and  in  virtue,  if 
they  were  blessed  with  a  just  government,  and  a  tolerant  religion. 

The  Greeks,  following  the  example  of  their  ancestors,  are  fond 
of  hyperbolical  expressions,  and  frequently  follow  the  oriental  cus- 
tom of  saying  the  contrary  to  what  they  mean.  They  make  some 
compensation  however  for  this  defect,  by  their  sincere  hospitality, 
and  natural  and  unaffected  civility.  Very  different  is  the  false  and 
complimentary  style  of  phraseology  that  is  used  in  some  parts  of 
Italy,  where,  on  entering  a  house,  the  traveller  is  frequently  offered 
the  house  itself,  and  every  thing  it  contains  ;  and  at  length,  when 
he  has  obtained  the  bare  necessaries  of  life,  is  obliged  to  pay  four 
times  their  value,  or  to  suffer  insult  and  menace !  A  ludicrous  in- 
stance of  this  disgusting  and  impudent  hypocrisy  was  recounted  to 
me  by  an  English  traveller,  who  visited  the  Lucrine  Lake  near 
Naples,  and  meeting  a  man  upon  its  banks,  asked  him  to  whom  it 
belonged  ?  the  answer  was, — To  your  Excellency.  The  fact  is,  the 
man  was  the  proprietor  of  the  lake,  and  made  a  complimentary 
gift  of  it  to  the  traveller ;  who,  encouraged  by  such  extreme  civi- 
lity, begged  that  he  might  have  a  few  oysters  taken  out  of  it,  for 
which  he  would  willingly  pay  ;  this  little  civility  was  however  in- 
stantly refused ! 

The  Greeks  are  remarkable  for  their  procrastination.1     I  never 


1  It  seems  that  this  failing  is  not  peculiar  to  the  Greeks.     See  Miss  Edgeworth's  Castle 
Rack-rent. 


16  LANGUAGE  AT  ATHENS. 

knew  one  of  them  make  a  sudden  determination,  and  put  it  into 
immediate  execution.  Even  affairs  of  the  smallest  importance,  and 
which  require  no  reflection,  are  deferred  until  the  morrow ;  and  if 
any  thing  whatever  is  required,  however  urgent  the  necessity,  the 
common  answer  is,  Sev  eivoie,  or  eeupiov  ctvptov.1  The  procrastination  of 
the  Theban2  Polemarch  Archias,  became  proverbial  in  Greece,  but 
it  is  still  universally  practised. 

The  language  at  Athens  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  music  ;  and 
there  is  no  part  of  Greece,  where  the  idiom  and  pronunciation  are  so 
vitiated,  although  the  Attic  dialect  was  formerly  so  much  admired  !3 
"  But  what  shall  I  say,"  exclaims  Simeon  Kabasilas,  "  of  the  dialects, 
which  are  numerous  and  different,  being  above  seventy  !  Of  all  these 
the  Athenian  is  the  worst."4  The  modern  Athenian  pronunciation 
is  held  in  ridicule  by  the  other  Greeks.  They  have,  in  common 
with  the  rest  of  Greece,  adopted  many  words  which  belong  to  the 
Latin,  Italian,  Arabic,  Sclavonian,  and  Albanian. 

Guillatiere  asserts,  that  in  his  time5  "  the  language  at  Athens  was 
the  most  genuine  and  incorrupt  of  all  the  cities  in  Greece,  and  that 
it  was  no  where  spoken  or  understood  in  its  primitive  purity  but  at 
Athens."  And  I  cannot  imagine  what  could  induce  Mons.  Guys6  to 
affirm,  that  the  organic  delicacy  of  the  Athenian  ears  has  preserved, 
from  tradition,  the  sweetness  of  the  pure  and  ancient  pronun- 
ciation ! 

As  it  is  impossible  to  transmit  to  posterity  clear  descriptions  of 
sound,  it  is  not  likely  that  we  should  ever  be  able  to  acquire  any 
very  just  notions  on  this  subject.  The  powerful  effects  which  the 
ancient  Greeks  attributed  to  music  is  evident  from  several  curious 
circumstances  in  their  history,  without  referring  to  the  mythological 


1  There  is  none,  or  to-morrow,  to-morrow. 

s  Plutarch's  Life  of  Pelopidas.  3  Cicero  de  perfecto  Oratore. 

4  From  Mearsius,  speaking  of  the  language  in  Greece  about  the  year  1578. 

5  Athens,  aucieut  and  modern,  1669.  6  Lettres  sur  la  Graec. 


GREEK  MUSIC.  17 

accounts  of  Orpheus,  Linus,  Amphion,  Arion  and  the  Dolphin, 
Ulysses,  and  the  Sirens,  &c.  I  shall  not  attempt  to  make  any  other 
than  a  few  superficial  observations  on  this  "  periculosae  plenum 
opus  aleae,"  which  has  been  so  scientifically  treated  by  persons  who 
are  profoundly  acquainted  with  the  subject.1 

Polybius2  ascribes  the  extraordinary  cruelty  and  barbarity  of  the 
Cynethaeans,  principally  to  their  contempt  and  ignorance  of  music, 
which  the  other  Arcadians  carefully  cultivated,  and  even  obliged 
their  children  to  learn. 

The  Spartans  thought  the  addition  of  two  strings  to  the  lyre, 
which  was  made  by  Phrynis,  a  most  dangerous  innovation ;  so  that 
the  original  number  of  seven  only  was  tolerated  ;  and  they  severely 
reproved  Timotheus  for  forming  the  lyre  with  twelve  strings.  Such 
•was  the  importance  of  which  they  considered  any  alteration  in  their 
musical  regulations.3  The  modern  Greek  music  is  probably  very 
different  from  that  of  the  ancients.  It  is  as  harsh  and  offensive 
to  the  ear  as  their  wine  is  to  the  palate.  The  common  Greek  songs 
are  precisely  in  the  same  style  as  the  native  and  unadorned  yells  of 
the  Italian  peasants ;  which  are,  beyond  any  thing,  displeasing  to 
the  foreign  ear.4 

The  wonderful  effects  Avhich  ancient  music  produced  upon  the 
sensibility  of  the  Greeks,  is  supposed  to  have  been  caused  by 
the  beauty  of  its   harmony ;  but  they  may  perhaps,  with  greater 


1  See  Burney's  Hist,  of  Music,  and  Dr.  Gillies'  Hist,  of  Greece,  vol.  1 .  c.  5.  p.  233.  et  seq. 

2  B.  4.  p.  289. 

3  Pliny  says,  Citharam  Amphion,  ut  alii  Orpheus,  ut  alii  Linus,  septem  chordis  additis 
Terpander.  Octavam  Simonides  addidit.  Nonam  Timotheus.  Cithara  sine  voce  cecinit 
Thamyras  primus,  cum  cantu  Amphion,  ut  alii  Linus.  Citharcedica  carmina  composuit 
Terpander.  Nat.  Hist.  b.  7.  c.  56. — I  have  seen  the  Cithara  represented  on  various  ancient 
monuments  with  from  three  strings  to  ten. 

4  The  lower  class  of  Italians  sing  beautiful  airs,  in  parts,  with  a  great  deal  of  taste  ;  but 
these  are  composed  by  regular  authors,  being  very  different  from  the  untaught  howls  above- 
mentioned. 

VOL.   II.  D 


18  GREEK  MUSIC. 

probability,  be  attributed  to  the  natural  excitability  of  the  people, 
rather  than  to  any  intrinsic  excellence  in  the  music.  The  whining 
lyre,  and  the  gingling  tamboura,  the  shrill  pipe,  and  the  heavy 
drum,  and  even  the  unharmonious  Sclavonian  monachord,  have  the 
strongest  effects  upon  the  quick  feelings  of  the  modern  Greeks. 

A  Greek  can  seldom  sing  without  dancing  at  the  same  time ;  and 
the  rest  of  the  company  present  can  never  resist  the  temptation 
of  joining  the  party,  as  if  actuated  by  a  natural  impulse ;  and 
when  they  all  sing  together,  the  din  is  really  horrible ;  it  may  be 
ranked  among  the  petty  vexations  of  travelling  in  Greece,  as  well 
as  the  songs  and  music,  with  which  the  traveller  is  complimented, 
to  the  great  offence  of  his  ears  and  nerves  !  For,  although  at 
first  all  this  excites  laughter,  yet  when  the  novelty  is  over,  it  be- 
comes insufferable.  The  traveller  is  sometimes  tormented  in  this 
manner  by  his  attendants,  from  sun-rise  to  sun-set!  When  I 
quitted  Athens  to  make  the  tour  of  the  Morea,  I  was  accom- 
panied by  some  Athenians,  with  whom  one  indispensable  con- 
dition of  our  agreement  was,  that  they  should  never  sing  on  the 
journey.  I  am  confident  that  they  regarded  my  want  of  taste  with 
feelings  of  commiseration  and  contempt,  similar  to  those  which 
Polybius  experienced,  when  he  animadverted  upon  the  unmusical 
character  of  the  Cynethaeans ;  and  one  of  my  intended  servants 
actually  gave  up  his  place,  from  a  conviction  that  he  should  not  be 
able  to  adhere  to  the  agreement  which  I  required  him  to  make ;  and 
even  those  who  did  accompany  me,  seemed  incapable  of  maintain- 
ing their  promised  silence  after  the  first  day.  Love  was  the  prin- 
cipal topic  of  their  songs,  which  were  singularly  hyperbolical  and 
ridiculous!  One  of  the  songs  declared,  that  "if  the  sky  was  paper, 
and  the  sea  wa  sink,  it  were  not  sufficient  to  write  down  the  suffer- 
ings of  the  lover,  who  had  left  his  heart  at  Athens  I"1 


1  No  Tjravt  o  Ovpavog  \aPTV  Kal  *)  OaXatraa  ficKaivrj 
Aia  va  ypaipeiv  rove  wovovs  fiov  atcofxi  lev  tfOaivt. 


GREEK  MUSIC.  19 

Another  song  began  with  the  following  modest  request : — "  Oh, 
may  the  mountains  sink  down,  and  Athens  be  seen,  where  my  love 
walks  about  like  a  goose."1 

This  singular  comparison,  so  warmly  expressed  by  the  fond  lover, 
renders  it  necessary  to  explain,  that  with  the  Athenian  ladies  it  is 
deemed  elegant  and  noble  to  walk  slowly  and  heavily.  This  com- 
parison, therefore,  which  appears  so  ludicrous  to  us,  is  with  them  one 
of  the  serious  effusions  of  amorous  panegyric.  The  following  are 
expressions  of  fond  endearment,  which  are  applied  to  the  Athenian 
ladies : — xvVOi  f*ovi  i*em%t&  pov,  pctria.  j^ou,  Zuypov,  "¥vxfl  pov,  and  KotpSix 
ftou.  "  My  goose,  my  duck,  my  eyes,  my  life,  my  soul,  and  my 
heart/' 

Nearly  the  same  expressions  are  used  by  Plautus2  in  his  Asinaria  ; 
the  scene  of  which  is  at  Athens.  We  find  them  also  in  Martial3  and 
Juvenal.4 

The  Greeks  and  Turks  neither  admire  nor  understand  any  music 
but  their  own ;  and  that  of  other  nations  is  as  incomprehensible  to 
them  as  a  foreign  language.  The  only  Frank  tune  which  they  sing, 
and  which  they  confess  to  have  almost  equal  merit  with  their  own 


1  Na  yafirj\<ovav  ra  fiovva  va  /3\eira  rr\v  ABtjva 
Na  fiXiira  ti\v  ayairt]  fiov  irov  irtpiraTU  aav  \r)va. 

Da  meus  ocellus  !  raearosa!  mianitne!  mea  voluptas  !  &c. 
Die  igitur  me  tuum  passerculum,  gallinam,  coturnicem,  &c. 
Die  igitur  me  anaticulam,   columbam,  vel  catellum, 
Hirundinem,  monedulam,  passerculum,  putillum. — Act  3.  sc.  3 

3  Zwtj  Kat  'Yvxi  lascivum  congeris  usque, 
Proh  pudor.— B.  10.  Epig.  68.  v.  5. 

quoties  lascivum  intervenit  illud.     Sat.  6.  v»  193. 


Zwr)  KaiYvxr)  modo  sub  lodice  relictis 
Uteris  in  turba. 

D2 


20  EXTEMPORE  MUSIC. 

music,  is  "  Malbrouk,"  which  has  been  introduced  into  Constan- 
tinople by  the  Franks,  and  is  sung  in  many  of  the  large  towns  of 
Greece.  They  attend  more  to  the  quantity  than  to  the  quality  of 
the  sound  in  music ;  and  they  prefer  noisy  instruments  to  harmo- 
nious ones.  Pietro  della  Valle,1  Lady  Mary  W.  Montague,2  M. 
Guys,  and  D'Ohsson,3  speak  in  raptures  of  the  music  of  modern 
Greece.  They  must  have  been  peculiarly  fortunate,  as,  during  a  resi- 
dence of  nearly  three  years  in  various  parts  of  Turkey,  I  hardly 
heard  a  tune  which  I  could  comprehend,  except  in  some  of  the 
islands  of  the  Archipelago  ;  where  the  motive  of  their  airs  is  some- 
times not  only  intelligible  to  the  mind,  but  gratifying  to  the  ear.4 

The  music  of  the  modern  Greeks,  as  well  as  their  poetry,  is  some- 
times an  extemporaneous  effort ;  but  then  it  is  worse  than  usual, 
for  they  have  not  that  facility  which  seems  more  exclusively  to  be- 
long to  the  Italian  improvisator!,  who,  in  general,  roar  so  loud,  that 
one  would  imagine,  as  Cratinus5  says,  "  that  a  river  was  rushing 
down  their  throat !" 

The  first  person,  according  to  Philostratus,6  who  spoke  extempore7 
on  any  given  topic,  was  Gorgias  of  Leontium,  who  used  to  enter  the 
theatre  at  Athens,  desiring  the  audience  to  propose  a  subject,8  on 
which  he  immediately  began  to  harangue  without  any  previous  pre- 
paration. 

The  same  circumstance  is  noticed  by  Cicero,9  who  says,  "  primus 
ausus  est  Leontinus  Gorgias,  in  conventu  poscere  qusestionem  ;  id 
est  jubere  dicere  que  de  re  quis  vellet  audire ;  audax  negotium  !" 
Strabo10  also  mentions  a  poet  named  Boethos,  who   could  speak 


1  Viaggi  in  Turchia,   1614.  -  Letters  on  Turkey.  3  Empire  Othoman. 

4  About  the  musical  instruments  at  present  used  in  Greece,  see  the  Appendix. 

5  See  the  scholiast  of  Aristophanes,  Equites.  note  523. 

H  Proem,  in  Vit.  Gorgias.  7  2X£c«h-  \oyoj. 

8  rfyo/jaXXt-E.  See  also  Plato,  Dialog.  Gorg.  p.  306  and  315.  and  Dialog.  Phileb.  p.  400. 

9  De  Finibus,  b.  2.  ">  B.  14.  p.  674. 


GREEK  DANCES.  21 

extempore  on  any  subject.  Pausanias1  will  have  that  the  historian 
Anaximenes,  who  lived  in  the  time  of  Alexander,  was  the  first  who 
spoke  extempore.2 

The  ancient  Greeks  had  a  great  many  different  styles  of  dancing, 
accommodated  to  various  purposes  of  a  religious,  warlike,  tragic, 
comic,  lascivious,  and  satirical  kind,  and  in  their  numerous  modi- 
fications and  degrees.  Many  of  these  dances  are  still  retained  in 
Greece,  and  probably  with  little  variation  from  the  original  models. 

The  circular,  or  Romaika,  is  the  national  dance,  and  the  most 
common  of  all,  as  it  is  employed  in  their  religious  festivals  of  the 
passover,  and  the  carnival.  It  consists  sometimes  of  men,  at  other 
times  of  women  ;  but  on  great  occasions,  of  both  sexes  together, 
holding  each  other  with  a  handkerchief,  as  gloves  are  not  known  in 
Turkey. 

The  Romaika  is  generally  composed  of  a  great  many  performers, 
who  dance  round  a  large  circle,  jumping  first  with  one  foot,  and 
then  with  the  other,  without  any  pretensions  to  grace,  to  elegance, 
or  activity. 

This  may  possibly  have  been  copied  from  the  dance  of  the  Laby- 
rinth, which  Theseus3  instituted  at  Athens,  after  his  prosperous 
return  from  Crete,  and  which,  according  to  Callimachus,*  was  a  cir- 
cular dance. 

Another,  which  is  commonly  practised  by  the  Mohamedan  Alba- 
nians, and  is  consequently  named  Arbanitiko,  or  Arnautiko,  perhaps 
originates  from  the  Spartan  Bibasis,  mentioned  by  Julius  Pollux. 
It  consists  principally  in  jumping  very  high,  and  throwing  the  body 
into  various  warlike  attitudes.  This  performance  is  confined  to  men, 
who  dance  it  either  singly,  or  in  any  number.  It  is  practised  in  the 
mountainous  parts  of  Thessaly  and  Macedon,  the  performers  being 


1  B.  6.  c.  18.  -  Avroa^eSiwc.  3  Plutarch's  Life  of  Theseus. 

4  Hymn  for  Delos,  v.  310.    Also  see  Jul.  Pollux,  Onomast.  b.  4.  c.  14.  seg.  101. 


22  GREEK  DANCES. 

armed  with  their  musket  and  sword  ;  which  may  indicate  a  remnant 
of  the  Pyrrhic  dance,  or  the  ePoauov,  or  the  Kaptxov,  in  which  they 
were  armed.1  In  the  islands  of  the  Archipelago,  and  particularly  in 
Chios,  they  have  a  dance  performed  by  women,  which  is  not  inele- 
gant. It  consists  of  two  or  more  females  holding  each  other  by  a 
handkerchief  at  full  length.  While  dancing  they  take  it  in  turns  to 
sing  poetry  in  rhyme.  The  first  stanza  being  the  strophe,  they  con- 
tinue turning  round  in  one  direction  ;  but,  as  soon  as  the  anti- 
strophe  or  second  stanza  commences,  they  change  their  course,  and 
turn  the  opposite  way. 

iEschylus2  and  Lucian3  mention  a  Spartan  dance,  which  was  ac- 
companied by  singing.  But  the  most  curious  and  interesting  of 
them  all  is  the  nuptial  dance,  which  I  had  an  opportunity  of  see- 
ing at  Athens,  on  the  marriage  of  Albanian  Christians.  When  the 
bride,  who  was  dressed  in  the  gayest  attire,  had  arrived  from  the 
country,  and  approached  the  house  of  the  bridegroom,  she  was 
encircled  by  all  the  principal  females  of  that  people,  Avho  had 
assembled  before  the  door,  and  while  they  danced  around  her,  wel- 
comed her  arrival  with  a  degree  of  elegance,  which  not  only  capti- 
vated the  imagination,  but  interested  the  affections.  They  sung  at 
the  same  time  the  vpevaioi,  or  nuptial  songs. 

Dances  of  an  indecent  kind  are  chiefly  practised  by  sailors,  in  the 
idle  hours  of  calm  weather,  or  by  depraved  mercenaries,  for  the 
amusement  of  the  Turks.  Their  excellence  consists  in  disgusting  atti- 
tudes and  ludicrous  contortions,  which  serve  to  excite  the  sluggish 
apathy,  and  enliven  the  sombre  seriousness  of  the  Musulman  specta- 
tors. They  will  not  however  bear  a  parallel  with  the  more  clear  and 
unambiguous  dance  of  the  Russian  sailors,  which  combines  all  the 


1  Jul.  Pollux,  Onomast.  b.  4.c.  14.  seg.  100.  Xenophon,  Exped.  Cyri.  b.  6.  mentions  an 
armed  dance  of  the  Ainianenses  and  Magnesians  called  Kaptraia.  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  7. 
c.  56.  says, u  Saltationem  armatam  Curetes  docuere,  Pyrrhicen  Pyrrhus,  utramque  in  Creta." 
See  also  Ammian.  Marcellin.  b.  16.  c.  5.     Plutarch,  De  sera  Numen.  Vindic.  and  others. 

-  Eumenid.  v.  303.  3  De  Saltat. 


GREEK  DANCES.  23 

variations  of  the  lonici  Mot  its.  The  sailors'  dance  is  called  MoQav,  by 
Julius  Pollux  c1  and  the  others  of  a  similar  tendency  were  named  by 
the  same  author,  Bocvjcto-pos,  BxKTpicco-ftog,  Attokivos,  A-7ro<rBt<rig,  and  K.op$u%. 

The  Turks2  have  the  greatest  contempt  for  dancing ;  which,  as 
they  think,  degrades  the  dignity  of  man,  and  is  fit  only  for  children 
and  madmen.  They  are  nevertheless  very  much  gratified  by  seeing 
others  dance,  and  make  fools  of  themselves  for  the  amusement  of  the 
wise.  Indeed  this  exhibition  of  muscular  activity  will  sometimes 
cause  the  rigid  monotony  of  their  features  to  soften  into  a  smile, 
and  sometimes  even  to  proceed  so  far  as  the  climax  of  a  laugh.  This 
appears  to  be  no  small  victory  obtained  over  the  gravity  of  those 
who  deem  it  foolish  to  laugh  at  any  thing  ;  but  very  foolish  indeed 
to  laugh  at  nothing  ! — "  Risu  inepto  nulla  res  ineptior."3 

I  had  the  satisfaction,  while  at  Athens,  of  seeing  the  curious  and 
interesting  ceremonies  attendant  on  an  Albanian  marriage.  The 
Nu^pij,  or  bride,  arrived  from  the  country,  riding  on  horseback  ;  the 
Nvptpayuyos,  or  Tlctpoxog,  walked  before  her,  and  a  female,  the  Nuppeurp/a, 
on  each  side :  the  bride,  covered  with  the  KaAu7nrpa,4  or  veil,  was  ac- 
companied by  a  Papas,  and  a  great  crowd  of  Albanians,  of  both  sexes, 
in  gala  dresses.  The  procession  entered  the  gates  of  Athens  with  the 
sound  of  drums  and  fifes ;  and  when  it  reached  the  bridegroom's 
house,  the  happy  fair  was  welcomed  by  other  Albanian  women, 


1  Onomast.  b.  4.  c.  14.  seg.  101.  About  other  dances  practised  by  the  modern  Greeks,  the 
letters  of  Guys  may  be  consulted  with  advantage. 

1  Except  the  Derwisches.  *  Catullus  in  Egnat.  v.  1 6. 

4  The  common  veil  which  the  Greek  women  wear  is  composed  of  two  parts,  one  of  which 
covers  the  forehead,  and  the  other  the  lower  part  of  the  face,  leaving  at  liberty  only  the  nose 
and  eyes.  The  nuptial  veil  is  of  a  different  kind,  and  being  long  and  transparent,  the  person 
who  wears  it  can  see  others  through  it,  her  own  features  being  concealed,  as  it  is  only  per- 
spicuous when  near  the  eye.  This  kind  of  veil  is  alluded  to  by  Euripides  in  his  Iphig.  in 
Tauris,  v.  372. — 

Eyw  &  Xcjttwv  Ofifia  ?(0  KaXvfj^taTuy 
E^oi/ff'. 


24  ATHENIAN  FEMALES. 

dancing  the  Zvprcg,  and  singing  the  vpevcuoi,  or  marriage  songs.  The 
nuptial  bed,  or  Kx<w?  yupfH&q;  which  was  brought  on  horseback  from 
the  village,,  formed  a  conspicuous  feature  in  the  festivity  of  the  pro- 
cession. When  the  bride  alighted  from  her  horse,  her  veil1  was  taken 
off;  and  she  was  conducted  to  the  presence  of  her  husband.  The 
Tdfjiog,  or  nuptial  feast,  ensued  ;  when  all  the  elderty  ladies  were  affec- 
tionately busy  in  presenting  the  new-married  pair  with  pomegra- 
nates and  other  fruits,  hoping  that  she  might  imitate  the  fertility  of 
those  trees,  and  bless  her  husband  with  a  numerous  progeny. 

The  pomegranate  was  anciently  a  mystic  fruit,  representing 
plenty  and  the  generative  power. 

There  is  no  part  of  Greece  in  which  the  females  are  so  plain  as 
at  Athens.  We  look  in  vain  for  the  sylph-like  forms,  for  the  airy 
elegance,  which  enrapture  the  beholder  in  their  statues,  and  their 
cameos.  Their  features  are  fine  ;  but  their  complexions  are  pale,  and 
their  general  appearance  is  characterized  by  languor  and  debility. 
But  their  eyes  are  sparkling,  and  their  teeth  are  good.  Premature 
corpulence,  proceeding  from  a  sedentary  and  inactive  life,  the  fre- 
quent use  of  the  warm  bath,  and  the  relaxation  of  a  hot  climate,  is 
particularly  conspicuous  in  the  Athenian  ladies.  This  corpulence, 
however,  is  rather  an  object  of  desire  than  of  aversion,  as  the 
symmetrical  contour  of  a  delicate  shape  is  not  much  in  unison  with 
the  taste,  either  of  the  Greeks  or  the  Turks.  But  the  sentiment  of 
beauty,  which  was  prevalent  in  ancient  times,  was  of  a  different 
kind.  The  females  of  Athens  did  not  then  attempt  to  fascinate  by 
the  ponderous  magnitude  of  their  dimensions,  but  on  the  contrary 
took  every  method  to  prevent  corpulence.2 

The  Greek  and  Turkish  ladies  have  few  accomplishments,  and 
have  neither  the  inclination  nor  capacity  for  any  mental  occupation. 
They  pass  the  time  in  embroidering  and  spinning,  and  other  female 


1  See  Jul.  Pollux,  Onomast.  b.  3.  c.  3.  seg.  37. 
s  Terence,  Eunuch,  and  Adelph. 


INACTIVITY  OF  THE  TURKS.  25 

employments,  in  which  all  eastern  nations  excel,  owing  to  their 
secluded  and  sedentary  mode  of  life  :  such  were  the  occupations 
even  of  queens  and  princesses  in  the  heroic  ages;  of  which  Homer 
will  furnish  frequent  proofs. 

The  modern  Greeks  are  fond  of  all  kinds  of  sweet -smelling  flowers 
and  perfumes.  The  ancients  were  also  partial  to  precious  oint- 
ments,1 but  the  men  were  regarded  as  effeminate,  if  they  indulged 
much  in  their  use  f  and  it  was  prohibited  both  by  the  Spartans  and 
Athenians.3  The  Athenian  ladies  in  summer  generally  wear  a  small 
bag  under  their  axilla,  containing  aromatic  and  sweet-scented  herbs, 
in  order  to  counteract  the  Lemnian  smell,  or  hircinus  odor*  which  in 
hot  climates  is  sometimes  extremely  disgusting— 

"  An  gravis  hirsutis  cubet  hircus  in  alis."5 

Amongst  the  Turks  the  men  are  as  sedentary  as  the  women ; 
and  have  no  idea  of  taking  exercise  for  health  or  for  amusement. 
Their  favourite  motion  is  riding  ;  and  they  consider  walking  below 
the  dignity  even  of  the  lowest  Musulman. 

When  a  Turk  once  met  me  on  foot  some  miles  from  Athens,  he 
inquired  of  some  Greeks,  who  accompanied  me,  if  I  was  a  gentle- 
man Frank,  which  he  said  he  much  doubted,  as  no  gentleman  would 
walk,  if  he  had  paras  enough  to  pay  for  a  horse  ! 

Genius  and  intrigue  appear  the  hereditary  patrimony  of  the  Athe- 
nians. Their  imaginations  still  flutter  Avith  the  shadows  of  departed  in- 
dependence; and  their  bosoms  still  vibrate,  however  faintly,  with  the 
love  of  liberty.  If  their  Voivode  conducts  himself  ill,  they  carry  their 
complaints  to  Constantinople,  and  generally  succeed  in  having  their 
grievances  redressed.     During  my  residence  at  Athens  complaints 


1  Barthelemy,  Anachar.  citing  Theophrast.  Charact.  c.  5. 

2  Pastillos  Rufillus  olet,  Gorgonius  hircum. — Horace,  Sat.  b.  1.  sat.  2.  v.  27. 

3  Athenaeus  Deipnosoph.  b.  15.  c.  10. 

4  Lactant.  Theb.  5.  of  Statius.  s  Horace  Epod.  12.  v.  5. 
VOL.  II.  E 


26    COMPLAINTS  MADE  AGAINST  THE  VOIVODE  OF  ATHENS. 

were  made  against  the  Voivode,  who  was  ordered  to  give  an  ac- 
count of  his  behaviour  at  Constantinople.  He  was  accused  of  arbi- 
trary spoliation  ;  and  some  of  his  officers  were  charged  with  outrage, 
and  with  insult.  Particular  stress  was  laid  on  the  wanton  brutality  of 
his  Greek  secretary,  who,  for  the  mere  love  of  mischief,  used  to  ride 
over  the  fields  of  cotton  and  tobacco.  I  have  frequently  seen  him 
galloping  through  the  narrow  streets  of  Athens,  and  endangering 
the  lives  or  limbs  of  the  passengers  !  He  was  easily  distinguished  at 
a  distance,  as  he  was  mounted  on  a  white  horse,  with  its  tail  and 
mane  died  of  an  orange  colour,1  and  was  attended  by  other  horse- 
men Avho  played  upon  the  violin  as  they  rode. 

The  grave  and  dignified  exterior  that  is  uniformly  assumed  by 
Turks,  would  induce  a  belief  that  they  were  exempt  from  the  com- 
mon weaknesses  of  humanity,  and  alike  indifferent  to  the  ordinary 
causes  of  lively  or  melancholy  emotions. 

So  few  opportunities  indeed  are  offered  to  the  traveller,  of  pene- 
trating into  the  mysteries  of  their  domestic  privacy,  that  I  may 
consider  myself  as  particularly  fortunate  in  having  been  an  eye 
witness  of,  and  in  some  measure  a  principal  actor  in,  a  scene  which 
has  made  a  deep  impression  on  my  memory  ;  as  it  enabled  me  to 
observe,  in  an  undisguised  manner,  the  secret  workings  of  the  heart, 
agitated  by  the  most  powerful  emotions,  and  the  bosoms  of  a  whole 
family  responsive  to  the  most  interesting  sympathies.  This  adven- 
ture, which  occurred  during  my  stay  at  Athens,  has  somewhat  the 
air  of  romance,  but  it  is  simply  as  follows  : 

Of  the  few  indulgences  Avhich  the  jealousy  of  Turkish  husbands 
allows  to  their  wives,  the  recreation  of  the  bath  is  the  most  highly 
prized  ;    and  hither,  as  to  a  public  coffee-house,  the  females  eagerly 


1  This  die  is  made  from  a  plant  called  Hanna,  or  Alcanna,  and  is  used  by  the  females  of  the 
east  to  colour  their  nails.  It  was  used  anciently  to  colour  hair,  and  is  the  same  as  the  terra 
capillorum. — See  Belon,  Voyage  au  Levant. 


INTRUSION  OF  THE  DISDAR  INTO  A  BATH  OF  FEMALES.  27 

resort,  and  pass  several  hours  of  the  day  in  gossipping  and  scan- 
dal, which  constitute  their  principal  amusement,  and  their  highest 
delight.  At  these  periods,  the  bath  is,  of  course,  accessible  only 
to  women ;  but,  though  on  this  point  the  Turkish  manners  are  so 
inflexibly  severe,  the  Disdar,  or  governor  of  the  fortress,  had  the 
temerity  to  venture  into  that  bath,  which  it  was  permitted  for  none 
but  females  to  use ;  and  like  another  Actaeon,  to  feast  his  unhallowed 
eyes  on  the  forbidden  charms  of  the  young  females  who  were  un- 
consciously exposed  to  his  view,  in  all  their  native  purity  and  volup- 
tuous elegance.  The  rash  intruder  was  soon  discovered  in  this 
forbidden  situation ;  a  scream  of  terror  resounded  through  the 
vaulted  chamber  of  the  bath  ;  the  inexpiable  insult  was  soon  known 
to  the  infuriated  husbands,  and  the  trembling  Disdar  was  compelled 
to  take  refuge  in  the  Acropolis  !  But  the  Turks  threatening  to  attack 
him  even  in  that  retreat,  he  soon  retired  to  iEgina,  where,  not  think- 
ing himself  secure  from  the  vengeance  of  his  enemies,  he  was  ulti- 
mately compelled  to  conceal  himself  in  the  island  of  Hydrea. 

Several  weeks  after  this  unfortunate  discovery,  which  forced  the 
Disdar  into  a  temporary  exile,  and  while  I  was  residing  with  the 
catholic  missionaries,  the  ill-starred  fugitive  returned  to  Athens  in 
disguise.  The  catholic  convent  was  the  first  place  to  which  he  re- 
sorted for  protection  in  his  misfortune.  Night  had  closed  the 
entrance  of  the  monastery,  and  we  had  all  retired  to  our  apart- 
ments for  repose,  when  we  were  suddenly  alarmed  by  a  loud  rap- 
ping at  the  gate.  A  stranger  in  the  street,  in  the  tone  of  earnest 
supplication  and  of  deep  distress,  implored  an  immediate  admission 
within  the  sacred  walls.  But,  as  the  circumstance  was  so  singular, 
and  the  interruption  so  extraordinary,  we  thought  it  right  to  arm 
ourselves  before  Ave  ventured  to  unbar  the  door.  This  was  no  sooner 
accomplished  than  a  tall  figure  made  his  appearance,  whose  face 
was  muffled  up  in  the  folds  of  his  mantle,  which  he  no  sooner  deve- 
loped, than  the  Disdar,  pale  as  a  culprit  and  humble  as  a  mendicant, 
presented   himself  to  our  astonished  sight !     He  made  a  forcible 

E  2 


28        HIS  DISCOVERY,  FLIGHT,  AND  RETURN  TO  ATHENS. 

appeal  to  our  sympathy  ;  and  craved  that  protection,  which,  in  such 
circumstances  of  suffering,  is  seldom  craved  in  vain.  The  numerous 
fears,  by  which  he  had  been  recently  persecuted,  and  the  actual  ills 
he  had  experienced,  had  lowered  his  supercilious  arrogance,  and 
made  a  strange  alteration  in  the  looks  of  the  haughty  Turk.  He 
kissed  the  beard  of  the  Prior ;  and  with  abject  servility  implored  an 
asylum  in  the  convent.  But  the  wary  capuchin,  not  daring  to  risk 
the  consequence  of  a  discovery,  repressed  the  compassion  which  he 
felt,  and  refused  the  favour  which  was  so  vehemently  urged.  The 
Disdar  then  had  recourse  to  me,  forgetting  the  little  civility  with 
which  he  had  treated  me,  when  he  commanded  in  the  Acropolis. 
But  he  now  besought  my  compassion  in  a  manner  so  humble  and 
affecting,  that  I  interested  myself  unfeignedly  in  his  behalf;  and, 
after  some  difficulty,  obtained  the  permission  of  Father  Urban,  to 
conceal  him  in  one  of  my  apartments,  where  he  was  suffered  to  re- 
main till  I  left  Athens. 

The  Disdar,  of  a  violent  and  rapacious  character,  was  about  forty 
years  of  age,  of  a  noble  and  imposing  appearance,  with  a  fine  flow- 
ing black  beard,  and  habited  in  scarlet  and  gold.  His  wife  was  a 
Greek,  and  his  family  was  numerous.  The  convent  is  situated  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  Acropolis  ;  and  one  of  the  rooms  which  I 
occupied  was  opposite  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  that  fortress. 
When  the  Disdar  became  a  little  tranquillized,  by  the  conscious 
security  of  his  retreat,  the  domestic  affections,  of  which  1  should  not 
have  previously  thought  him  so  susceptible,  began  to  operate  power- 
fully upon  his  breast;  and  he  warmly  entreated  me  to  procure  him 
an  opportunity  of  beholding  his  wife  and  children  from  my  window. 
The  secret  of  his  return  to  Athens  was  confined  to  the  monks,  my- 
self, and  our  servants ;  but  it  required  considerable  precautions  to 
prevent  the  disclosure;  and,  at  the  same  time,  to  obtain  for  the 
distressed  individual  the  particular  gratification  which  he  sought 
It  was  agreed  that  I  should  pay  a  visit  to  his  wife,  who  lived 
in  the  Acropolis,   and    should  arrange  with    her  the  three  stated 


CONCEALMENT  IN  THE  CONVENT.  29 

periods  of  each  day,  at  which  she  should  shew  herself,  and  her 
children,  at  the  eastern  battlement.  The  poor  woman  received  me 
at  first  with  trembling  apprehension,  and  cautious  reserve,  and  the 
more  so  from  her  knowledge  of  my  previous  dissensions  with  her 
husband.  After  much  persuasion  however  I  succeeded  in  conduct- 
ing her  to  the  appointed  spot ;  where  I  shewed  her  the  Disdar,  who 
was  anxiously  watching  for  his  wife  with  a  telescope,  which  I  had 
lent  him  for  the  purpose.  This  unexpected  sight  of  one  whom  she 
appears  to  have  tenderly  loved,  was  too  much  for  her  natural  un- 
affected sensibility.  She  uttered  a  scream  of  joy,  and  fainted  in  my 
arms.  This  incident  was  alarming ;  for  if  any  Turk  had  been  passing 
at  the  moment,  the  retreat  of  the  Disdar  would  probably  have  been 
discovered,  or  else  I  should  have  incurred  the  suspicion  of  an  impro- 
per familiarity  with  the  wife  of  a  Musulman,  and  my  situation  would 
have  been  hardly  less  perilous  than  that  from  which  I  was  labouring  to 
extricate  the  Disdar.  Fortunately  however  her  house  was  not  far  off,  to 
which  I  conducted  her  with  some  danger  and  considerable  difficulty. 

When  she  reached  her  home,  and  recovered  from  her  surprise,  she 
expressed  her  gratitude  in  the  most  affecting  manner ;  and  in  her 
confidence  unveiled  her  face,  which  exhibited  the  undissembled  linea- 
ments of  care  and  woe.  Her  eldest  son,  a  fine  youth  of  about  fifteen 
years  of  age,  was  called  in,  and  entrusted  with  the  secret  of  his 
father's  return,  and  place  of  concealment.  The  same  information 
was  also  confided  to  his  eldest  daughter,  who  however  did  not  make 
her  appearance.  The  other  children  were  not  of  a  sufficient  age  to 
be  the  depositories  of  such  an  important  communication ;  but  they 
all  accompanied  their  mother  to  the  eastern  battlement,  without  be- 
ing at  all  conscious  of  the  purpose  for  which  they  went ;  and  little 
suspecting  that  they  were  affording  to  their  afflicted  father  a  spec- 
tacle of  unspeakable  delight. 

Every  day  during  my  stay  at  Athens  this  distant  visit  of  fond 
curiosity  and  anxious  solicitude  was  renewed,  during  which  the 
Disdar  and  his  family  exhibited  visible  proofs  of  the  force  which  the 


30  SUPERSTITIONS,  THE  EVIL  EYE. 

domestic  sympathies  had  acquired  over  their  affections.  Few  days 
elapsed  in  which  I  did  not  also  call  on  his  wife  to  give  her  tidings  of 
her  husband  :  for  when  I  left  Athens  he  had  not  yet  ventured  to  quit 
the  convent ;  nor  would  prudential  reasons  permit  him  to  receive  a 
visit  from  his  wife.  When  I  left  the  monastery  I  exacted  a  solemn 
promise  from  the  Prior  to  continue  his  protection  to  the  Turk  ;  and 
was  afterwards  gratified  by  the  intelligence,  that  he  had  happily 
brought  about  a  reconciliation  with  his  enemies,  and  Avas  subse- 
quently restored  to  his  command  in  the  Acropolis. 

The  Athenians  have  various  superstitions ;  of  which  magic  forms 
a  conspicuous  part ;  but  as  I  have  already  noticed  this  subject,  I 
shall  at  present  mention  another  which  is  not  less  curious,  and  is  of 
equal  antiquity. 

This  is  the  superstition  of  the  Evil  Eye ;  of  which  the  origin  is  un- 
known, although  it  is  mentioned  by  several  ancient  authors.  It  was 
imagined  that  the  evil  look  of  an  envious  person  caused  great,  and 
almost  immediate  misfortune  to  the  object  thus  looked  upon.  For 
it  was  supposed  to  affect  not  only  the  human  race,  but  also  the 
brute  creation,  and  even  inanimate  things,  as  gardens  and  houses. 
It  was  thought  to  be  attended  by  an  evil  genius,  which  did  as  much 
mischief  as  it  could,  and  sickened  at  the  sight  of  prosperity,  happi- 
ness, and  beaut}r.  To  counteract  the  secret  workings  of  this  much- 
dreaded  enemy  to  felicity  and  to  excellence,  the  ancients  had 
recourse  to  various  expedients ;  many  of  which  have  been  followed 
by  the  moderns  of  Greece  and  Italy,  and  of  some  other  countries, 
where  this  singular  superstition  still  prevails  in  the  full  vigour  of  its 
pristine  folly.  It  was  known  to  the  Greeks  by  the  different  names  of 
Bc&cncxvos  O(p9<x\po<;,  O<p6x\pog  Tlovrjpoq,  Bcztrxuvoi;,  Boutkocvicv,  Boctrxavioi,  and 
Boancciirvvri ;  the  same,  according  to  Vossius,1  as  <t><x.<rx.a.ivo?  ;  and, 
according  to  the  Etymol.  Mag.  and  the  Scholiast  of  Theocritus, 


'-  Etymol.  p.  205.  v.  Fascinum. 


THE  SUPERSTITION  OF  THE  EVIL  EYE.  31 

derived  from  Oae<n  kxivu,  aspectu  occido,  from  which  the  Latin  word 
fascinum  is  also  probably  derived.1  It  is  the  fascinum  or  fas- 
cinatio  of  the  Latins ;  for  the  derivation,  of  which  Vossius  and 
Faber2  may  be  consulted.  Those  who  were  supposed  to  possess 
the  Evil  Eye  were  particularly  avoided,  and  it  is  written  in  the 
Book  of  Proverbs,3  "  Eat  not  the  bread  of  him  that  hath  an  evil 
eye." 

The  Baa-Kccvo;,  or  charm,  was  practised  in  various  manners  ;  by  the 
look,  the  voice,  and  the  breath.4  Too  much  praise5  of  any  object 
was  supposed  to  fascinate  it ;  and  some  even  fascinated  themselves, 
and,  by  admiring  themselves  too  much,  pined  away  and  died,  like 
Narcissus.  Children6  were  most  subject  to  the  fatal  effects  of  fas- 
cination, as  persons  of  more  mature7  years  Avere  deemed  better  able 
to  resist  it. 

Plutarch,  who  gives  a  long  account  of  it,  says,  "  that  according  to 
Phylarchus,  a  people  of  Pontus,  called  Thybii,  destroyed  grown  up 
persons  as  well  as  children  by  their  look,  their  voice,  and  their 
breath." 

Pliny8  tells  us,  that  in  Africa  not  only  children  have  perished  by 
the  fascination  of  praise,  but  that  even  trees  have  been  withered  by 
its  effects.  "  In  eadem  Africa  familias  quasdam  efFascinantium,  Isigo- 
nus  et  Nymphodorus  tradunt,  quarum  laudatione  intereant  probata, 
arescant  arbores,  emoriantur  infantes.  Esse  ejusdem  generis  in  Tri- 
ballis,  et  Illyriis,  adjicit  Isigonus,  qui  visu  quoque  effascinent  interi- 
mantque  quos  diutius  intueantur,  iratis  prsecipue  oculis ;  quod 
eorum  malum  facilius  sentire  puberes."  Fortunately  this  dreaded 
Evil  had  many  powerful  enemies ;  amongst  which  were  the  goddess 


1  See  Potter.  Antiq.  b.  2.  c.  18.  p.  35fi. 

4  Thesaur.  p.  901.  3  q  23    V-  g_ 

*  Plutarch,  Sympos.  b.  5.  prob.  7-  5  Catull.  7.  12.     Virgil,  Eclog.  7.  v.  27. 

6  Alex.  Aphrod.  b.  2.  prob.  50.               7  Plat.  loc.  cit.               8  Nat.  Hist.  b.  7.  c. 


32  THE  SUPERSTITION  OF  THE  EVIL  EYE. 

Cunina,1  and  the  god  Fascinus.2  The  antidote  to  the  effects  of  the 
Envious  Eye  was  termed  A/3a<ncai/Tc?,3  Bcuncocvixg  Qctpftuxuv,4'  and  Upc- 
Qwnummf  and  the  amulets  which  were  used  on  the  occasion  were 
called  by  the  general  name  of  OuXaxr^a,  or  (bccppaxa,  a-urvipioc..  The 
efficacy  of  amulets  was  implicitly  believed  by  the  lower  classes  in 
Greece,  who  wore  them  as  preservatives  against  all  kinds  of  mala- 
dies, and  the  whole  host  of  ills ;  but  this  egregious  folly  did  not  in 
general  escape  derision. 

When  Pericles  was  at  the  point  of  death,  some  women  suspended 
an  amulet  to  his  neck ;  which,  as  Plutarch  remarks,  was  a  sign 
that  Pericles  was  nearly  out  of  his  mind,  or  he  would  not  have  sub- 
mitted to  such  a  superstitious  ceremonial. 

The  most  common  remedy  against  an  invidious  look  was  spitting; 
it  was  hence  called  despuere  malum. 

This  is  mentioned  by  many  authors  ;  particularly  by  Theocritus,6 
Tibullus/  Petronius,8  Persius,9  Pliny,10  Seneca,11  and  Plautus.12 
Theocritus  says,  "  that  it  is  necessary  to  spit  three  times  into  the 
breast  of  the  person  who  fears  the  fascination."13 

Petronius,  besides  saliva,  mentions  the  use  of  variegated  threads,14 
and  the  putting  of  dust,  combined  with  saliva,  upon  the  forehead. 
"  Ilia  de  sinu  licium  protulit  varii  coloris  filis  intortum,  cervicemque 
unxit  meam.  Mox  turbatum  sputo  pulverem  medio  sustulit  digito, 
frontemque  repugnantis  signat,  &c.  hoc  peracto  carmine  ter  me  jus- 
sit  expuere,  terque  lapillos  conjicere  in  sinum,"  &c. 


1  Lactant.  b.  1.  c.  20.  *  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  28.  c.  4. 

'  Dioscorid.  b.  3.     Plutarch  Sympos.  b.  5.  prob.  7. 

4  Aristot.  prob.  s  Heliodor.  JEthiopic.  b.  3.  p.  140. 

6  Idyl.  G.  v.  39.  7  B.  1.  Eleg.  2.  v.  56.  3  Sat.  131.  9  Sat.  2.  v.  32. 

10  Nat.  Hist.  b.  2S.  c.  3  and  4.  "  Consol.  ad  Marc.  c.  9. 

12  Captivi.  act  3.  sc.  4.  v.  23. 

"   ftj  fxri  fiaaKavQiii  ct,  rpig  £iq  t/iov  ivrvaa  koXttov. — Loc  Clt. 

14  See  also  Virgil,  Eclog.  8.   v.  77. 


THE  EVIL  EYE.  33 

Persius  says,  that  the  lustrales  salivae  must  be  put  upon  the  fore- 
head and  lips  of  the  child,  with  the  middle  finger  : — 

"  Frontemque,  atque  uda  labella 


Infami  digito,  et  lustralibus  ante  salivis 
Expiat/' 

iElian1  pretends,  that  pigeons  cover  their  young  ones  with  saliva 
to  guard  them  against  fascination.  The  early  use  of  saliva,  as  a  heal- 
ing medium  as  well  as  a  preservative,  has  been  transmitted  to  us 
in  the  Scripture.  Christ  cured  a  blind  man  by  rubbing  spittle 
upon  his  eyes: — "  And  he  took  the  blind  man  by  the  hand,  and 
led  him  out  of  the  town,  and  when  he  had  spit  on  his  eyes,  and 
put  his  hands  upon  them,  he  asked  him  if  he  saw  aught  ;"2  and 
again,  "  When  he  had  thus  spoken  he  spit,  on  the  ground,  and  made 
clay  of  the  spittle,  and  then  anointed  the  eyes  of  the  blind  man  with 
the  clay."3 

Every  thing  that  was  ridiculous  and  indecent  was  also  supposed 
to  be  inimical  to  the  malignant  influence  of  fascination,4  <3W  tijv  uTOTriuv 
T7j4  otyeuc,  "  by  the  oddness  of  the  sight/'5  And  amongst  these,  the 
most  potent  was  a  "  turpicula  res,"  which,  according  to  Varro,6  was 
suspended  to  the  necks  of  children :  "  Potest  vel  ab  eo  quod  pueris 
turpicula  res  in  collo  quaedam  suspenditur,  ne  quid  obsit  bona; 
scaevae  causa ;  inde  scaevola  appellatur ;  ea  dicta  ab  scaeva,  id  est 
sinistra,  quod  quae  sinistra  sunt  bona  auspicia  existimantur." 

The  turpicula  res  is  the  same  which  Horace7  expresses  by  the  word 
fascinum,  which  he  uses,  as   it  was  known  to  be  the  great  destroyer 


1  Var.  Hist.  b.  1.  c.  15. 

*  St.  Mark,  c.  8.  v.  23.  s  St.  John,  c.  9-  v.  6. 

4  Jul.  Pollux  Onomast.  b.  7.  c.  24.  5  Potter,  Antiq.  b.  2.  c.  18.  p.  358. 

6  De  Lingua  Lat.  b.  6.  r  Epod.  8.  v.  18. 

VOL.  II.  F 


34  THE  EVIL  EYE. 

of  fascination  ;  and  it  was  accordingly  easily  understood  to  what  lie 
alluded.  They  are  frequently  found  in  Italy  of  bronze;  and  the 
other  extremity  of  the  symbol  is  terminated  by  a  hand  which  is 
closed ;  the  thumb  protruding  between  the  fore  and  middle  finger. 
This  is  probably  the  infamis  digitus,  which  was  inimical  to  the  Evil 
Eye.  Coral1  was  anciently  wore  by  children  as  antidotal  to  the  Evil 
Eye,  as  it  is  still  in  many  parts  of  Europe,  and  particularly  England, 
but  unattended  with  the  superstition  from  which  the  custom  origi- 
nated, though  the  coral  preserves  the  form  of  the  most  powerful  an- 
tidote, which  children  used  to  wear  against  fascination.  Amber  was 
frequently  carried  about  the  person  from  the  same. preservative  mo- 
tive,2 and  it  is  sometimes  found  in  ancient  sepulchres.  The  petrified 
sharks'  teeth,  which,  from  their  tongue-like  form,  were  denominated 
Glosso  petra,  were  also  used  as  amulets  against  fascination.3 
Horace4  uses  the  words  obliquus  oculus  for  envy  i~  - 

"  Non  istic  obliquo  oculo  mea  commoda  quisquam 
Limat ;  non  odio  obscuro,  morsuque,  venenat." 

Animals  were  also  subject  to  the  effects  of  the  Evil  Eye,  as  we  see 
in  Virgil5 — "  Nescio  quis  teneros  oculis  mihi  facinat  agnos." 

Pliny6  informs  us  that  gardens,  and  other  inanimate  objects,  were 
defended  from  it  by  "  satyrica  signa ;"  and,  according  to  Vossius,7 
inauspicious  birds  were  fixed  upon  doors  for  a  similar  purpose.    The 


1  Jee  Orpheus  de  Lapid.  Coral,  v.  81.  et  seq.  and  De  Boot,  Gemmar.  et  Lapid.  Hist, 
b.  2.  c.  154.  p.  309-  and  c.  155.  p.  315. 

f  Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  b.  37.  c.  3.  De  Boot,  b.  2.  c.  160.  p.  327.  Orpheus  enumerates 
many  other  stones  which  had  antidotal  properties.  3    De  Boot,  b.  2.  c.  168.  p.  341 . 

*  B.  1.  Epist.  14.  v.37.  s  Eclog.  3.  v.  103. 

6  Nat.  Hist.  b.  19.  c.  4.  7  Etymol.  p.  206. 


THE  EVIL  EYE.  35 

Evil  Eye  is  termed  by  the  modern  Greeks  xccxo  Man,1  which  is  equi- 
valent to  the  Baa-Kuvos,  or  vovTipo;  otyQcthftoq  of  the  ancients.2 

Superlative  praise  was  exceedingly  dreaded  by  the  ancients,  as  it 
is  also  at  the  present  day,  of  which  Virgil3  furnishes  an  instance : — 

"  Aut  si  ultra  placitum  laudarit,  baccare  frontem 
Cingite,  ne  vati  noceat  mala  lingua  futuro." 

The  word  prce/iscine*  was  used  in  order  to  counteract  the  bad 
effects  of  this  praise,  and  to  shew  that  it  was  sincere,  and  not  in- 
tended in  a  contrary  sense.  In  the  mountainous  parts  of  Italy, 
where  ancient  customs  are  preserved,  the  person  who  is  the  object  of 
praise  in  general  says,  on  such  occasions — "  Si  mal  occhio  non  ci 
fosse  -,"  meaning,  that  the  praise  would  be  acceptable  if  sincere,  and 
unattended  with  envy. 

The  first  place  where  I  discovered  this  superstition  was  in  the 
island  of  Corfu.  I  was  taking  a  view  near  a  cottage,  into  which  I 
was  kindly  invited,  and  hospitably  entertained  with  fruit  and  Avine. 
Two  remarkably  fine  children,  the  sons  of  my  host,  were  playing 
about  the  cottage ;  and  as  I  wished  to  pay  a  compliment  to  the 
parents,  I  was  lavish  in  my  praises  of  their  children.  But  when  I 
had  repeated  my  admiration  two  or  three  times,  an  old  woman, 


1  From  0/.i[ia.Twv. 
1  The  superstition  of  the  Evil  Eye  is  also  mentioned  by  many  other  authors,  particularly 
Plautus  Asinar.  act  2.  sc.  4.  line  84.  Aul.  Gellius  Noct.  Att.  b.  16.  c.  12.  Gratius. 
Marcellus  on  Physic.  Chrysostom  Orat.  Tertullian  de  Virg.  Veland.  c.  14.  and  15. 
Erasm.  Chiliad.  1 .  Cent.  35.  Cornel.  Agrip.  b.  1 .  Turneb.  Adverser,  b.  9.  c.  28.  Faber 
Thesaur.  p.  901.  &c.  Alsarius  de  Fascino,  Antiq.  Roman,  a  Graevio,  torn.  12.  p.  885. 
Potter,  Antiq.  b.  2.  c.  18.  And  observations  on  an  antique  bas-relief,  &c.  by  James 
Millingen,  Esq.  F.  S.  A.  London,  Jan.  1818,  from  the  Archseologia,  vol.  19. 

3  Eclog.  7.  v.  27. 

4  Plautus,  loc.  cit. — Praefiscine,  or  Praefiscini,  adv.  a  word  used  to  prevent  exception. — 
Morell.  Diet. 

F  2 


36  THE  EVIL  EYE. 

whom  I  suppose  to  have  been  the  grandmother,  became  agonized 
with  alarm,  and  starting  up,  she  dragged  the  children  towards  me, 
and  desired  me  to  spit  in  their  faces.  This  singular  request  excited 
so  much  astonishment,  that  I  concluded  the  venerable  dame  to  be 
disordered  in  her  intellects.  But  her  importunities  were  immedi- 
ately seconded,  and  earnestly  enforced,  by  those  of  the  father  and 
mother  of  the  boys.  I  was  fortunately  accompanied  by  a  Greek, 
who  explained  to  me,  that  in  order  to  destroy  the  evil  effects  of  my 
superlative  encomiums,  the  only  remedy  was,  for  me  to  spit  in  the 
faces  of  the  children.  I  could  no  longer  refuse  a  compliance  with 
their  demands,  and  I  accordingly  performed  the  unpleasant  office  in 
as  moderate  a  manner  as  possible.  But  this  did  not  satisfy  the  super- 
stitious cottagers  ;  and  it  was  curious  to  see  with  what  perfect  tran- 
quillity the  children  underwent  this  nasty  operation  ;  to  which  their 
beauty  had  probably  frequently  exposed  them. 

The  mother  then  took  some  dust  from  the  ground,  and  mixing  it 
with  some  oil,  from  a  lamp  which  was  burning  before  a  picture  of  the 
Virgin,  put  a  small  patch  of  it  on  their  foreheads.  We  then  parted 
perfectly  good  friends ;  but  they  begged  of  me  never  to  praise  their 
children  again. 

The  next  infallible  remedy  for  the  prevention  of  the  spell  is  sur>- 
posed  to  be  a  sentence  from  the  Scripture ;  which  is  enclosed  in  a 
little  bag,  and  tied  round  the  neck  of  children,  where  it  is  constantly 
worn,  both  night  and  day.  A  similar  kind  of  preservative  is  used 
by  the  Turks,  who  are  also  subject  to  fascination  ;  and  a  sentence 
from  the  Kourann  has  the  same  salutary  effect  upon  their  children,  as 
a  scrap  from  the  Bible  upon  the  Greeks. 

The  Italians  appear  to  have  borrowed  this  superstition  from  the 
Greeks ;  they  call  it  mal  occhio,  and  occhiaticcio ;  and  to  prevent 
the  bad  effects  of  superlative  praise,  they  exclaim — "  Mal  occhio 
non  ci  possa!"  But  in  Italy  it  is  supposed  to  attack  the  brute  crea- 
tion more  frequently  than  the  human  race;  and  every  precaution  is 
taken  to  preserve  horses  from  its  effects.  In  the  mountainous  parts 
of  that  country  horses  are  never  seen  without  a  piece  of  badger's 


GAME  OF  MORA.  37 

skin,  or  the  tail  of  a  fox,  tied  round  their  heads.  The  countrymen 
also  wear  a  piece  of  the  skin  in  the  bandage  of  their  hats,  from  the 
same  supposition  of  its  preservative  powers. 

When  the  horses  are  in  the  stable  the  access  of  fascination  is  pre- 
vented by  nailing  owls,  hawks,  and  other  inauspicious  birds  upon  the 
doors.  The  horns  of  animals  are  also  used  for  a  similar  purpose. 
Cows  are  particularly  liable  to  fascination  in  Scotland ;  and  the  pre- 
ventive remedies  are  enumerated  by  Pennant,  in  his  voyage  to  the 
Hebrides.1 

The  principal  sports  of  Greece  have  so  near  an  affinity  with  the 
games  of  the  ancients,  that  the  classical  reader  may  perhaps  deem 
some  account  of  them  not  destitute  of  interest. 

One  of  the  earliest  of  these  games  is  that  which  is  at  present  called 
mora  in  Greece  and  Italy  ;  and  which  the  Greeks  it  seems  anciently 
explained  by  the  word  Xayxavsiv,  from  Xocxpog,  or  Xa%o?,  sors  ;2  and  the 
Latins,  by  those  of  micare  digitis,  or  micatio.9  According  to  Non- 
nus4  it  was  the  favourite  game  of  Hymenfp.us  and  Cupid.  Some  assert, 
that  it  was  invented  by  the  beautiful  Helena.  It  was  represented  on 
an  ancient  bas-relief  at  Rome,  and  on  a  spinthra,  which  was  once  in 
the  Orleans'  collection.  It  is  played  by  two  at  a  time,  both  crying 
out,  at  the  same  moment,  a  number  not  exceeding  ten,  and  at  the 
same  time  opening  suddenly  as  many  fingers  as  they  imagine  that  the 
united  number  of  the  two  players  will  make.  He  who  guesses  the  right 
number  of  course  wins  the  game.  I  have  seldom  seen  it  played 
in  the  interior  of  Greece  ;  but  chiefly  in  the  islands  and  sea  ports. 
It  was  probably  the  introduction  of  the  Italian  sailors,  as  it  is  very 
common  throughout  the  whole  of  Italy.  It  is  a  singular  circum- 
stance, that  this  game  is  known  at  the  newly-discovered  island  of 
Loo-Choo.3 


1  1772,  p.  231,232.  *  iEschyl.  Sophoc.   Euripid.  and  others. 

3  Cicero,   Varro,  Suetouiu9,  Calpumius,  and  others.     See  Faber's  Thesaur.  p.  151©. 
*  B.  33.  77.  i  See  Captain  Hall's  Voyage. 


38  GAME  OF  ASTRAGALS. 

The  next  game  of  high  antiquity,  which  the  moderns  have  retained, 
is  the  A<rrpx-ya.Xoi,  or  astragals ;  the  modern  Greek  name  of  which  is 
kotzia  :*  it  is  said  to  owe  its  origin  to  Palamedes,  son  of  Nauplios. 
Apollonius  Rhodius2  describes  Cupid  and  Ganymede  playing  with 
golden  astragals  ;  and  in  an  ancient  painting  which  was  found  at 
Herculaneum,  we  behold  two  females,  who  are  occupied  with  the 
same  amusement.  It  is  played  with  the  tarsal  bones  of  the  hinder 
legs  of  goats,  or  with  the  representation  of  these  bones  in  some  other 
material.  I  have  found  them  of  lead,  bronze,  crystal,  amethyst, 
agate,  and  glass.  The  bone  has  four  unequal  sides  ;  on  which  it  is 
supposed  the  ancients  made  a  certain  number  of  marks,  thereby 
forming  a  game  nearly  similar  to  dice.  On  one  side  was  No.  1 ;  on 
the  opposite  side  6 ;  on  another  3 ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  4.  They 
played  with  four  astragals ;  so  that  there  were  thirty-five  different 
chances.  The  tali  and  talorum  Indus  of  the  Romans  was  similar  to 
that  of  the  astragals.  The  tesserarum  Indus  was  an  improvement ; 
the  tessera  being  complete  cubes.  The  game  is  at  present  very 
simple  and  easy,  as  it  requires  no  other  dexterity  than  that  of  throw- 
ing the  bones  a  very  little  way  into  the  air,  and  catching  them  upon 
the  back  of  the  hand. 

In  a  sepulchre  which  was  opened  near  Athens3  were  found  a 
hundred  astragal  bones  placed  under  the  head  of  the  deceased,  and 
they  were  probably  designed  to  shew  what  had  been  his  favourite 
amusement. 

The  astragal  is  represented  on  coins  of  Himera,  in  Sicily,  and  on 
some  of  the  most  ancient  Italic  and  Roman  asses;  which  makes  it 
probable  that  the  game  was  early  known  in  Italy.4 

The  modern  game  of  pentegoulos  nearly  resembles  the  astragals. 
Five  small  stones  are  placed  on  the  back  of  the  hand ;  and  these 


1  It  is  called  Dibbs  by  the  English,  Osselets  by  the  French,  and  Ossiciuoli  by  the  Italians. 

2  See  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  11.  c.  46.  3  By  Mr.  Burgon. 

4  About  this  game  consult  Jul.  Pollux.  Onoinast.  b.  9.  c.  7.  Seg.  99.  Suidas,  Lexic.  yoI.  1. 
p.  S60.  .   ' 


VARIOUS  GAMES.  39 

being  thrown  up  into  the  air,  he  who  catches  the  greater  number  on 
the  back  of  the  hand  is  the  winner. 

Strephoulida1  is  a  simple  game,  known  to  children  of  all  countries. 
It  consists  in  spinning  a  piece  of  coin  on  a  flat  surface.  The  person 
who  guesses  the  side,  which  will  remain  uppermost  when  it  falls, 
wins  the  game. 

Triodon,  or  the  three  ways,  is  common  in  Greece  and  Italy  ;  three 
squares,  one  within  another,  are  marked  out  upon  a  fiat  surface ;  it 
is  played  by  two  persons,  each  having  nine  bits  of  stone,  or  any 
other  material,  which  are  called  men.  The  men  of  each  player 
must  have  a  distinctive  mark,  and  the  object  is  to  gain  three  ;  that 
is,  to  have  three  men  contiguous  to  each  other  upon  the  same  line. 
It  is  cailedjilo  in  Italy,  and  has  been  introduced  into  England,  and 
named  the  mill.  It  seems  to  be  the  irmtiu.  of  the  ancient  Greeks,2 
the  calculorum  Indus  of  the  T,atins. 

One  of  the  most  active  games,  and  which  is  worthy  of  the  gym- 
nastic exercises,  is  called  mada.  A  large  stone  is  thrown,  under- 
hand, and  whoever  throws  the  furthest  is  the  victor;  it  has  consi- 
derable resemblance  to  the  discus,  which  it  is  evident  from  Homer, 
was  of  stone.  This  game  is  played  by  none  but  the  country  people  ; 
and  the  exercise  tends  to  give  great  muscular  vigour  to  the  arm, 
which  was  very  useful  in  the  heroic  ages,  when  stones  were  formida- 
ble, and  not  unusual,  weapons ;  of  which  the  Iliad  will  furnish 
numerous  examples. 

All  over  Italy  the  discus  is  a  common  game  ;  it  is  named  ruzzola, 
and  is  played  in  the  ancient  manner,  under-handed,  with  a  thong  ; 
it  consists  in  a  large  circular  piece  of  wood,  flat  on  the  sides  :  they 
sometimes  play  with  hard  cheeses,  which  is  the  form  of  the  modern 
discus  ;  they  hurl  them  to  a  great  distance,  and  with  a  prodigious 
force,  along  the  roads  in  the  vicinity  of  Rome,  to  the  great  annoyance 

_     .  .        .  _  __ 

1   ^.TpefovXiZa,   or  TLrpcfovyiprj^i. 

*  See  Plutarch,  Probl.  Rom.  Hesych.  Lexic.  vol.  2.  p.  949-  Suidas,  Lexic.  vol.  3.  p.  102. 


40  BIRDS  OF  ATTICA. 

of  passengers,  who  are  in  danger  of  receiving  no  very  agreeable  con- 
tusions by  the  blow.  Wrestling  and  rope-dancing  are  common  in 
Asia  Minor ;  but  I  never  saw  either  one  or  the  other  in  Greece. 
The  Turkish  game,  of  djirid,  has  been  so  often  described,  that  it  is 
unnecessary  to  repeat  it  in  this  place. 

The  birds  in  Greece,  and  particularly  at  Athens,  are  extremely 
tame  and  domestic  ;  the  small  hawks  and  the  jack-daws  build  their 
nests  under  the  eaves  of  the  houses,  and  during  the  summer  months 
wage  a  furious  war  with  an  incessant  cackling,  which  is  often  not  ter- 
minated till  the  young  ones  are  thrust  from  their  nests,  and  precipi- 
tated upon  the  ground.  While  we  were  eating  our  dinner  in  an 
open  gallery  of  our  house,  at  Athens,  a  small  hawk  used  to  pay  us 
a  frequent  visit,  when  it  would  fearlessly  perch  upon  the  table,  and 
pick  from  the  dishes  whatever  it  liked  best.  But  having  one  day 
accidentally  burnt  its  bill,  it  flew  away  in  disgust,  and  could  never 
afterwards  be  induced  to  become  our  guest. 

This  bird  is  probably  the  ^Egyptian  hawk,  which,  according  to 
Strabo,1  was  quite  domestic  in  its  habits.  It  was  regarded  as  a 
mystical  bird ;  and  being  portrayed  on  ^Egyptian  obelisks,  has 
been  conjectured  to  personate  Osiris,  who  represented  the  sun.2 
iElian3  affirms,  that  the  hawk  was  sacred  to  Apollo,  and  rather 
courted  than  avoided  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

Swallows  frequently  build  their  nests  in  the  interior  of  houses  ; 
and  although  they  occasion  a  great  deal  of  dirt,  it  is  thought  inhos- 
pitable to  drive  them  away ;  the  same  is  the  case  in  the  Crimea.4 
But  the  most  singular,  and  the  most  ornamental  bird  in  Turkey,  is 
the  stork,  which  comes  to  Greece  about  the  beginning  of  March, 
unless  the  winter  lingers  longer  than  usual  on  the  confines  of  spring. 


«  B.  17.  p.  823. 

2  Herodot.  b.  2.  c.  59.    Diodor.  Sic.  Hist.  b.  1.  c.  1 1.   Plutarch  de  Isid.  et  Osir.    Euseb. 
Praeparat.  Evang.  b.  1.  c.  9.  3  De  Animal,  b.  10.  c.  14. 

*  See  Dr.  Clarke's  Tour  through  Russia,  vol.  2. 


STORKS.  41 

During  one  of  the  periods  while  I  was  travelling  in  this  country, 
they  had  not  made  their  appearance  by  the  12th  of  March ;  and 
the  Turks,  becoming  impatient  of  the  delay,  and  alarmed  for  the 
consequences,  presaged  the  most  dire  results,  if  they  much  longer 
procrastinated  their  return.  On  their  arrival,  however,  a  day  or  two 
afterwards,  these  ominous  forebodings  were  succeeded  by  expres- 
sions of  joy. 

They  are  called  by  the  Turks  the  Birds  of  Mohamed  ;  are  held 
in  great  veneration,  and  are  permitted  to  build  their  nests  Avherever 
they  will,  without  the  smallest  molestation.  A  severe  punishment 
is  inflicted  upon  those  by  whom  they  are  destroyed. 

This  respect  for  the  stork  probably  arises  from  the  service  which 
they  render  to  the  country,  by  the  destruction1  of  serpents  and 
locusts,  of  which  their  food  principally  consists.  They  were  an- 
ciently so  much  esteemed  in  Thessaly  for  the  havoc  which  they 
made  among  the  snakes,  that  the  killing  of  a  stork  was,  according  to 
Aristotle,2  Pliny,3  and  Plutarch,4  a  capital  offence.  The  ^Egyptians, 
for  the  same  reason,  venerated  their  ibis,  which  destroyed  the  flying 
serpents,5  that  are  said  to  have  passed,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
from  Arabia  into  iEgypt.6 

The  stork  is  a  formidable  enemy  to  the  tortoise ;    and  I  have 


1  Juvenal,  Sat.  14.  v.  74  : — 


Serpente  ciconia  pullos 

Nutrit  et  inventa  per  devia  rura  lacerta. 

*  De  Mirab.  Auscul.  107.  3  Nat.  Hist.  b.  10.  c.  23. 

*  De  Isid.  et  Osir.  p.  678.  and  Sympos.  Probl.  b.  8.  5  Herodot.  b.  2.  c.  75. 
6  The  flying  serpents  are  no  more  fabulous  than  flying  fish,  although  they  have  been 

thought  so;  Strabo  mentions  flying  snakes  and  flying  scorpions  in  India,  b.  15.  iElian  notices 
the  latter,  De  Animal,  b.  16.  c.  42.     Pausanias  mentions  one  which  was  brought  by  a  Phry- 
gian into  Ionia,  b.  9.  c.  21.     Belon  saw  them  in  vEgypt,  and  his  drawing  represents  them 
with  two  wings  and  two  legs.     They  are  noticed  by  Herbelot.  Biblioth.  Orient. 
VOL.  II.  G 


42  STORKS. 

sometimes  seen  them  flying  with  a  large  one  in  their  bill.  A  young 
stork  was  brought  to  me  at  Athens,  which  I  kept  until  it  could  rly, 
and  I  had  thus  an  opportunity  of  observing  its  eccentricities.  They 
are  of  a  quiet,  solemn  character ;  and  have  all  the  gravity  and  indo- 
lence of  the  Turks.  They  sometimes  sit  for  several  successive  hours 
in  the  same  posture,  or  stand  upon  one  foot,  their  other  foot  being 
tucked  under  one  wing,  and  their  bill  under  the  other  wing.  They 
build  their  nests  upon  the  mosques  and  house-tops,  and  place  them- 
selves in  a  variety  of  curious  attitudes  ;  sometimes  making  a  con- 
tinued clatter  with  their  long  bills,  not  only  in  the  day,  but  also 
during  a  great  part  of  the  night : 

"  Crepitante  ciconia  rostro."1 

Their  note,  as  well  as  their  appearance,  about  the  towns  of  Greece, 
has  something  peculiarly  wild.  Homer2  compares  the  Trojans,  when 
preparing  for  war,  to  the  storks  preparing  to  leave  a  country,  at  the 
commencement  of  the  cold  : 

"  Hure  Trip  Khctyyvj  Tepocvuv  irsXit  ovpocvo9t  irpo. 

The  stork  is  perfectly  described  by  Petronius  Arbiter,3  in  the 
following  lines: — 

"  Ciconia  etiam  grata  peregrina  hospita 
Pietati4  cultrix,  gracilipes,  crotalistria, 
Avis  exul  hyemis,  titulus  tepidi  temporis." 

In  the  winter  it  emigrates  to  warmer  climates — 

"  Trans  pontum  fugat,  et  terris  immittit  apricis."5 

They  are  held  nearly  in  as  much  esteem  in  Holland  as  in  Turkey ; 
and  the  Romans  were  probably  the  only  people  with  whom  they 
formed  an  article  of  food  ,6 


1  Ovid.  Metam.  b.  6.  v.  97.  s  Iliad.  3.  v.  3.  '  Sat.  c.  55. 

*  See  Olaus  Magnus  Goth,  de  Avibus,  b.  19.  Rom.  edit.  1554. 

5  Virgil,  iEneid.  6.  v.  312. 

6  Horace,  b.  2.  Sat.  c.  2.  v.  49.   Pliny  Nat.  Hist.  b.  10.  c.  2S. 


CROWS,  OWLS.  43 

Apollonius1  asserts,  that  crows  were  never  seen  within  the  Athe- 
nian Acropolis.  Pliny,2  as  usual,  credits  the  vulgar  error;  and 
Dr.  Chandler,  with  his  accustomed  respect  for  ancient  authors, 
assists  in  propagating  the  belief.  He  says3  he  has  "  frequently  seen 
crows  fly  about  the  rock,  without  even  entering  the  citadel,  for  which 
reason  Lucretius  says,  that  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  fly  so  high." 
The  elevation,  however,  of  the  Acropolis  is  so  very  moderate,  that 
I  have  often  seen  them  fly  much  above  it,  and  both  crows  and  daws 
build  their  nests  even  amongst  the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Minerva  ; 
but  they  commonly  prefer  the  rock,  as  it  affords  them  better  shelter, 
and  greater  security. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  owls  at  Athens  :  their  numbers  an- 
ciently gave  rise  to  the  proverb  of  VXuvkx  e<?  AV«f)4  meaning,  that 
it  would  be  useless  to  take  owls  to  Athens,  where  they  were  so 
abundant. — 

"  Quis5  mel  Aristaeo,  quis  Baccho  vina  Falerni 
Triptolemo  fruges,  poma  dat  Alcinoo  ?" 

The  most  common  owl  at  Athens  is  the  strix  passerina,  which  is 
very  small  and  tame,  and  the  same  which  is  represented  on  Athenian 
coins.  They  have  a  particular  note,  of  which  their  Greek  name, 
KovKovZuytu,  is  perfectly  expressive,  and  to  which  that  circumstance 
must  have  given  rise  ;  as  the  cuckoo  has  received  its  appellation  from 
a  similar  resemblance. 

Hesiod6  says,  the  Kokkv%  xoitxvfcei;  which  Salvini,  in  his  Italian 
translation,  renders  il  cuculio  cuculia;  and  which  might  be  expressed 
in  English  by  "  the  cuckoo  cuckoos." 

It  is  a  singular  circumstance,  that  the  Athenians  are  pleased  with 


1  Hist.  Mirab.  8.  '-  Nat.  Hist.  b.  10.  c.  12. 

5  Travels  in  Greece,  c.  1 1 .  p.  54.  *  Lucian's  Letter  to  Nigrinus. 
5  Ovid.  Epist.  ex  Ponto,  b.  4.  Epist.  2.  v.  9.  6  Opera  et  Dies,  v.  486. 

G  2 


44  THE  LIZARD,  THE  TREE  FROG. 

seeing  the  bird  of  Minerva  perch  upon  their  houses,  and  that  they 
regard  it  as  a  favourable  omen.  In  all  other  countries  it  is  supposed 
as  anciently  to  portend  calamity  and  death ! — 

"  Ignavus  bubo,  dirum  mortalibus  omen."1 

Virgil,2  Plin}r,3  Dion  Cassius,*  Servius,  and  others,  call  it  an  inau- 
spicious and  funereal  bird. 

Amongst  the  reptiles  of  Greece,  the  lacerta  agilis,  the  large  green 
lizard,  is  the  most  beautiful.  Its  colours  are  of  the  brightest  tint. 
I  have  sometimes  seen  them  eighteen  inches  in  length.  It  is  sup- 
posed, by  the  Greeks  and  Italians,  to  be  a  friend  to  man ;  and 
many  stories  are  recounted  of  peasants,  who,  while  sleeping  under  a 
tree  during  the  sultry  noon,  have  been  endangered  by  the  approach 
of  snakes,  till  they  were  awakened  by  the  vigilant  interposition  of 
the  lizard,  who  descended  from  the  tree  for  that  purpose,  and  by 
striking  the  face  of  the  peasant  with  his  tail  saved  him  from  ap- 
proaching danger.  This  lizard  is  easily  tamed,  and  was  a  domestic 
reptile  amongst  the  ancient  Greeks. 

The  rana  arborea,  or  tree  frog,  or  spordaka,5  is  of  a  most  beautiful 
light  green  colour,  and  in  its  form  nearly  resembles  the  common  frog, 
but  it  is  of  a  smaller  size  ;  it  has  also  longer  claws,  and  a  glutinous 
matter  at  its  feet,  with  which  it  attaches  itself  with  great  facility  to 
any  substance  that  comes  in  its  way.  It  lives  chiefly  on  trees,  and 
jumps  with  surprising  agility  from  branch  to  branch.  Its  colour  is  so 
nearly  identified  with  that  of  the  leaves,  that  it  is  very  difficult  to 
distinguish  the  one  from  the  other.  Its  eyes  are  of  a  most  beautiful 
vivacity ;  and  it  is  so  extremely  cold,  that  when  held  in  the 
hand,  it  produces  a  chilly  sensation,  like  a  piece  of  ice.  It  is 
delicate,  and  though  very  tame,  will  not.  live  in  confinement.     Its 


1  Ovid.  Metam.  b.  .5.  v.  550.  "  /Eneid.  4.  v.  462. 

3  Nat.  Hist.  b.  10.  c.  12.  *  Hist.  Rom.  passim. 

*  The  modern  Greek  Dame. 


THE  TREE  FROG,  THE  TETTIX.  45 

song  is  surprisingly  loud  and  shrill,  and  in  hot  days  almost  as  inces- 
sant and  tiresome  as  that  of  the  tettix  :  they  are  more  common  in 
the  island  of  Leucadia  than  in  other  parts  of  Greece. 

Cuvier1  distinguishes  this  frog  from  the  others,  by  the  generic 
name  of  hyla.  Roesel,  in  his  splendid  work  on  frogs,  represents 
three  different  kinds  of  the  rana  arborea — the  light  green,  that  of  a 
darker  hue,  and  the  light  brown.2 

The  common  frogs  of  Greece  have  a  note  totally  different  from 
that  of  the  frogs  of  the  northern  climates,  and  there  cannot  be  a 
more  perfect  imitation  of  it  than  the  "  Brekekekcx  koax,  hoax,'' 
of  Aristophanes.3 

I  observed  few  venomous  animals  or  insects  in  Greece;  and  at 
Athens  I  never  saw  a  snake,  or  a  scorpion  ;  which  are  much  more 
common  in  Italy. 

The  most  classical  insect,  if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expression, 
which  is  seen  in  Greece,  is  the  tettix.  It  frequents  the  plains  and 
olive  groves,  and  is  never  found  in  cold  or  mountainous  regions. 
It  is  totally  different  from  the  uk^s,  or  locust ;  as  it  is  formed  like  a 
large  fly,  with  long  transparent  wings,  a  dark  brown  back,  and  a 
yellow  belly. 

The  tettix  is  originally  a  caterpillar,  then  a  chrysalis,  and  is  con- 
verted into  a  fly  late  in  the  spring.  Its  song,  which  it  makes  with 
its  wings,4  is  much  louder  and  shriller  than  that  of  the  grasshopper. 
Hesiod5  terms  it,  the  musical  tettix :  Anacreon,6  Theocritus,7  Dio- 
genes Laertius,8  and  others,  praised  the  sweetness  of  its  song ;  and 
Plutarch9  says,  they  were  sacred  to  the  Muses.  According  to  ./Elian,10 
only  the  male  tettix  sings;  and  that  in  the  hottest  weather.11 

According  to  Aristophanes,12  they  only  sing  during  one  or  two 
months  in  the  year. 


1  Regne  Animal.  *  Roesel.  Hist.  Nat.  Ranar.  pi.  9,  10,  11. 

*  Rana».  *  JE\im.  de  Animal,  b.  1.  c.  20.  and  b.  11.  c.  26. 

5  Opera  et  Dies,  v.  582.  6  Od.  43.  T  Idyl.  1.  v.  147. 

a  B.  3.  seg.  7.  Plato.  9  Sympos.  Probl.  b.  8. 

,0  De  Animal,  b.  I.e.  20.  and  b.  1 1 .  c.  26.  »  B.  3.  c.  S6.  15  Aves,  v.  39. 


46  THE  TETTIX,  THE  MANTIS. 

Homer1  compares  the  chattering  of  the  old  Trojans  to  the  singing 
of  the  tettix. 

Antoninus  Liberalis2  says,  the  inhabitants  of  Rhegium  believed  that 
Hercules  had  imposed  the  penalty  of  eternal  silence  upon  the  tettiges 
of  that  particular  district,  because  their  ceaseless  din  had  on  one 
occasion  disturbed  his  repose.  Its  song  is  loudest  in  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day,  when  the  rest  of  animal  nature,  overpowered  by  the 
heat,  seeks  relief  in  shelter  and  repose  : — 

"  Sole  sub  ardenti  resonant  arbusta  cicadis."3 

The  tettix  is  extremely  common  in  the  south  of  Italy. 

Another  curious  insect,  which  is  not  uncommon  in  warm  climates, 
is  the  mantis ;  it  is  called  la  morte,  by  the  Italians ;  and  baton 
marchant  and  prie  dieu,  by  the  French.  There  are  various  kinds 
of  them.  The  most  common,  and  the  most  beautiful,  are  of  a  light 
green  colour,  with  long  wings,  which  they  fold  up  in  several  plaits. 
They  are  in  general  about  three  inches  in  length,  with  long  legs 
and  claws,  which  they  use  with  great  dexterity  in  seizing  their  prey. 
This  consists  of  any  kind  of  insect  which  they  can  master.  I  have 
seen  them  catch  wasps  and  bees  :  if,  when  they  are  in  possession  of 
their  prey,  any  other  insect  settles  within  their  reach,  they  first 
stick  the  former  on  some  sharp  spikes,  with  which  their  legs  are 
provided,  and  then  catch  the  other.  I  was  enabled  to  observe  the 
curious  and  amusing  motions  of  this  insect,  by  placing  some  of  them 
in  my  garden,  where  they  remained  for  several  days  upon  the  same 
tree,  until  it  rained,  when  they  flew  away  to  seek  securer  shelter. 
They  have  frequently  taken  flies  from  my  hands,  and  appear  the 
most  rational  of  the  insect  tribe. 


1  Iliad.  3.  v.  150. 
'■  Metam.    See  also  iElian,  de  Animal,  b.  5.  c.  9.    He  says,  they  were  also  silent  in  Mate- 
don,  b.  3.  c.  36. 

3  Virgil.  Eclog.  <2.  v.  13.     See  also  iElian,  de  Animal,  b.  5.  c.9- 


THE  FIRE  FLY,  HERCULEAN  ANT.  47 

The  fire  fly  is  not  so  common  in  Greece  as  in  Italy  ;  it  was 
known  to  the  ancients  by  the  name  of  tapnrpfg  and  to  the  moderns 
by  that  of  xoXoQutwv. 

The  gardens  at  Athens  abound  with  the  black  Herculean  ants,  that 
are  found  in  Italy,  and  in  some  parts  of  England,  but  which  are 
smaller  than  those  of  Athens.  They  are  remarkably  strong,  and  I 
have  seen  one  of  them  at  Athens  carry  a  large  wasp  in  its  mouth, 
with  perfect  apparent  facility.  The  Herculean  ant  is  much  sought 
for  by  gardeners  in  Italy  ;  their  nests  are  found  in  forests,  and  un- 
cultivated places,  in  large  pieces  of  decayed  wood,  which  are 
brought  to  Rome,  and  sold  in  the  market-place.  About  half  a 
dozen  of  these  logs  are  placed  in  gardens  where  there  are  orange 
and  lemon  trees,  whose  flowers  are  infested  by  a  small  red  ant,  which 
destroys  the  fruit  in  the  bud.  These  two  different  species  of  ants 
wage  a  continual  warfare  with  each  other.  If  the  larger  one  finds 
itself  surrounded  by  the  smaller  kind,  it  is  attacked  by  hundreds, 
and  immediately  killed  ;  but  this  seldom  happens,  as  the  strength 
and  activity  of  the  former  are  so  greatly  superior.  But  if  a  small 
ant  happens  to  fall  in  the  way  of  one  of  the  larger  kind,  it  is  nipped 
in  two  in  an  instant.  I  have  watched  the  larger  ant  searching  the 
lemon  trees  for  the  small  red  ant,  and  have  seen  a  dozen  of  the  latter 
nipped  in  two  in  the  course  of  a  minute  by  one  of  the  former  ;  and 
in  the  period  of  three  months,  they  are  supposed  to  exterminate 
their  antagonists,  and  to  liberate  the  garden  from  their  pernicious 
ravages. 

We  may  conclude,  that  the  long  interval  of  obscurity  and  silence, 
which  occurs  in  the  history  of  Athens,  after  the  gradual  decay  of 
its  power  and  greatness,  is  a  sign  of  its  internal  weakness  and  poli- 
tical tranquillity.  We  find  it  taken  in  the  third  century  by  Gothic 
invaders,  in  the  reign  of  Gallienus,  as  Zosimus  affirms  ;  or,  accord- 
ing to  Cedrenus,  under  that  of  his  successor,  Claudius.  The  Goths 
retained  their  new  acquisition  only  a  short  time,  as  they  were  ex- 
pelled by  the  Athenians,  headed  by  Cleodemos.  Syncellus  affirms, 
that  the  Herules,  from  the  Palus  Maeotis,  laid  waste  many  places  in 


48  FINAL  HISTORY  OF  ATHENS. 

Greece,  and  burnt  Athens,  Corinth,  Sparta,  and  Argos,  and  that 
they  were  driven  away  under  Gallienus.  Alaric,  whose  safety  was 
endangered  by  the  approach  of  Stilicho,  the  general  of  the  great 
Theodosius,  made  peace,  and  quitted  Greece ;  after  this  period  the 
fate  of  Athens  is  enveloped  in  a  long  lapse  of  silence.  In  1205, 
it  was  taken  by  the  Marquis  of  Montferrat.1  Alberic2  attributes 
the  capture  of  the  city  to  Otho  de  la  Roche,  adding,  that  he  was 
made  Duke  of  it,  which  title  was  conferred  upon  the  lords  of  this 
venerable  capital  by  the  successors  of  the  Emperor  Baudouin.  No 
one  except  Nicephorus  Gregoras  asserts,  that  they  had  the  title  of 
fjLiXug  $ov%,  "  Grand  Duke,"  which  title  he  erroneously  affirms  was 
created  by  Constantine  the  Great.  According  to  Nicephorus 
Gregoras,3  the  Duke  of  Athens  was  also  styled  Trpippuciipios,  and 
afterwards  pe\xs  xvptog. 

In  the  13th  century  Athens  belonged  to  the  house  of  Arragon. 
When  Andronicus  Palaiologos  the  elder,  was  Emperor  of  the  East,  he 
invited  the  Catalans  into  his  empire,  in  order  to  assist  him  in  driving 
the  Turks  from  its  confines.  When  the  Catalans  had  performed  what 
they  had  undertaken,  Andronicus  refused  the  remuneration  which 
had  been  previously  stipulated  ;  they  accordingly  turned  their  arms 
against  him,  and  paid  themselves  by  the  seizure  of  Athens,  Thebes, 
and  several  other  places  in  Greece.4  The}'  expelled  the  house  of 
Montferrat  from  Athens  in  1312  ;  and  the  Duke  Gautier  was  killed 
in  battle.  The  dukes  of  the  house  of  Arragon  were  William  Duke  of 
Caltasin,  son  of  Frederick  King  of  Sicily  ;  he  died  in  1338;  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  brother,  John  Marquis  of  Randace,  who  died  in 
1348,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Frederick,  who  died  in   1355 : 


1  Hist,  de  Constantinop.  sous  les  Emp.  Francois,  b.  J .  p.  23.  *  Ibid.  p.  24. 

3  Hist.  Byzant.  b.  7.  c  7.  p.  154. 

4  Joan.  Cantacuzene  Hist.  b.  3.  c.  12.  p.  387.  Contin.  Glycse  Annal.  ad  evers.  usque 
Byzant.  J.  Leunclav.  p.  2f)7.  Hist,  de  Constantinop.  sous  les  Emp.  Francois,  b.  6.  p.  242. 
Paris  edit. 


FINAL  HISTORY  OF  ATHENS.  49 

and  leaving  no  issue,  was  succeeded  by  Frederic  II.  King  of  Sicily, 
who  left  it  to  his  only  daughter  Mary,  who  married  Martin,  Duke 
de  Montblanc,  afterwards  King  of  Arragon.  Gautier,  Count  de 
Brienne,  the  legitimate  heir  to  the  Duchy  of  Athens,  had  recourse  to 
the  thunder  of  the  Vatican,  and  to  the  terror  of  its  excommuni- 
cations, which  were  in  vain  hurled  against  the  Catalans,  and  he 
never  succeeded  in  being  reinstated. 

It  would  appear  that  Gautier  having  made  over  his  pretensions 
to  Athens  to  Queen  Johanna  of  Naples,  she  sent  thither  Renaud  de 
Petris,  and  Nicholas  Acciaiolo  of  Florence,  to  take  possession  of 
the  place.  The  House  of  Arragon  then  ceased  to  command  in 
Athens :  Reinier  Acciaiolo  left  it  to  the  Venetians,  from  whom  it 
was  taken  by  Anthony  his  natural  son.  He  was  succeeded  by 
Nerius,  who  was  expelled  by  his  brother  Anthony,  the  successor  of 
whom,  named  Francus,  surrendered  to  Mohamed  II.  in  1456, l  and 
retired  to  Megara ;  where,  being  accused  of  plotting  against  the 
Turks,  he  was  soon  after  put  to  death.2  Athens  had  before  this 
period  suffered  by  the  Turks,  who  had  burnt  its  suburbs3  in  1333. 
It  was  also  taken,  and  plundered  in  1378,  by  Timurtash  Pasha,  for 
the  Sultan  Bajazet.  It  was  taken  from  the  Turks,  in  1467,  by  the 
Venetian  general  Victor  Capello;  but  it  soon  returned  under  the 
sway  of  the  Mohamedans.  Athens  is  now  subjected  to  the  Kizlar 
Aghassy,  or  chief  of  the  black  eunuchs,  whose  principal  Arpalik 
is  formed  by  Attica,  and  its  capital.  The  origin  of  this  curious 
event  is  related  by  Guillatiere,4,  who  asserts  that  this  favor  was 
obtained  from  the  Sultan  Achmet,  by  the  beautiful  Basilia,  who 
was  born  at  Athens  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Athens  is  at 
present  supposed  to  be  increasing  in  population  and  civilization, 
and  to  contain  near  12,000  inhabitants;  nine-tenths  of  which  are 
Greeks,  the  rest  Turks. 

1  Ducae  Michaelis  Nepotis  Hist.  Bvzant.  Chronicon  breve,  p.  199. 

*  Laonic.  Chalcocondyla  de  rebus  Turcicis,  b.  8.  p.  241,  242. 
3  Hist,  ile  Constantinop.  sous  les  Erap.  Francois,  b.  8.  p.  264. 

*  Athens,  ancient  and  modern. 
VOL.    II.  H 


50  FINAL  HISTORY  OF  ATHENS. 

Ubbo  Emmius,  who  wrote  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury, says,  that  it  then  contained  the  same  number:  Tavernier, ' 
who  travelled  in  1663,  asserts  that  it  had  22,000  inhabitants.  This 
enumeration  however  is  probably  exaggerated;  for  Guillatiere,  who 
travelled  only  six  years  after  Tavernier,  says,  that  it  contained  not 
more  than  16,000  inhabitants. 

Before  I  take  my  final  leave  of  Athens,  I  cannot  avoid  recalling  to 
mind  the  beautiful  passage  of  Cicero,  which  so  feelingty  expresses  the 
sentiment  of  melancholy  attachment  and  regret,  which  every  contem- 
plative mind  must  experience  amid  the  ruins  of  this  once  illustrious 
city;  in  walking  over  the  ashes  of  demi-gods,  and  heroes,  and  in 
treading  the  same  ground  which  they  have  trod  before.  The  force  of 
association  contributes  to  revive  their  identity  in  the  mind,  and  to 
transfer  it  to  the  surrounding  objects.  They  live  in  the  imagination  ; 
their  presence  is  breathed  over  the  hills  and  the  rocks  ;  it  haunts  the 
dells  and  the  groves,  and  animates  every  part  of  the  panoramic  view. 
The  whole  locality  is  consecrated  by  the  memory  of  statesmen  and 
warriors  ;  of  historians  and  poets,  of  critics  and  philosophers,  sages 
and  legislators,  of  whom  not  only  Athens  but  the  world  may  be 
proud.  "  Movemur  nescio  quo  pacto  locis  ipsis  in  quibus  eorum 
quos  diligimus,  aut  admiramur,  adsunt  vestigia.  Me  quidem  ipsae 
illae  nostras  Athenae  non  tarn  operibus  magnificis,  exquisitisque 
antiquorum  artibus  delectant  quam  recordatione  summorum  viro- 
rura,  ubi  quisque  habitari,  ubi  sedere,  ubi  disputare  sit  solitus  :  stu- 
clioseque  eorum  etiam  sepulchra  contemplor." 

The  letter  of  Pliny2  to  Maximus,  who  was  going  to  govern 
Greece,  is  not  less  remarkable,  and  is  replete  with  sublimity  of  sen- 
timent, and  strong  veneration  for  the  Greeks. 

I  may  now  take  my  leave  of  Athens;  and  say  with  Strabo,3  vt^ 
fj.iv  tk  ArriKTig  ravrx.     "  So  much  for  Attica  \" 

'  Voyage  en  Perse,  liv.  3.  *  B.  8.  Epist.  24.  '   B.  9.  p.  400. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Journey  to  Thessaly— Kasha— Castle  of  Phyle— Skourto— To  Kakasialasi— Thebes— Lake  of 
Hylika — Villages  Sengena  and  Karditza — Ruins  of  Akraiphnion — Ruins  of  a  City,  probably 
Kopai — Lake  Kopais — Village  Kokinos — Katabathra— Village  Martini — Pass  of  Andera — 
Ruins— Opuntian  Gulf— Likadi  Islands— Ruins  of  a  City — Town  of  Talando — Village 
Libanatis — Ancient  Fort  near  the  Sea — Ruins  of  a  City — Villages  Longaki,  Dervit- 
ziali,  Andera,  and  Katomolo — Pass  of  Thermopylae — Thermal  Springs— Mount  Oeta — 
Khan. 

TO  SKOURTO. 

I  had  long  meditated  a  journey  through  Thessaly,  the  pastoral 
beauties  of  which  had  been  deeply  impressed  upon  my  imagination 
by  the  writers  of  antiquity.  We  chose  the  month  of  May  for  this 
excursion,  in  hopes  of  being  able  to  complete  it,  and  return  to  Athens 
before  the  great  heats,  and  the  season  of  fevers,  should  commence. 
We  accordingly  quitted  Athens  on  the  17th  of  May,  taking  the  road 
to  Thebes,  through  the  village  of  Kasha,  and  over  Mount  Parnes,  by 
the  Castle  of  Phyle.  As  soon  as  we  reached  the  northern  side  of 
the  mountain,  we  enjoyed  a  fine  view  of  Euboea,  the  Opuntian  Gulf, 
and  the  magnificent  range  of  the  Boeotian  and  Phocean  Mountains, 
amongst  which  the  most  conspicuous  were  Cithaeron,  Helicon,  and 
Parnassos.  We  descended  the  rugged  steeps  of  Parnes  through  a 
forest  of  small  firs,  shrubs,  and  bushes,  and  arrived  at  a  green  plain  ; 
to  the  left  of  which  is  a  village,  named  Kalasala,  and  a  ruined  tower 
on  an  eminence  above.  Towards  the  close  of  the  day,  we  arrived  at 
an  Albanian  village,  called  Skourto,  where  we  passed  the  night. 
The  distance  from  the  Castle  of  Phyle  to  this  place,  is  two  hours  and 
three  quarters ;  and  four  hours  more  from  Athens. 

ii  2 


52  FINE  VIEW  OF  THEBES. 

TO  THEBES. 

On  the  18th,  we  proceeded,  and  passed  a  small  marsh  and  four 
churches,  at  the  foot  of  some  low  hills.  A  little  further  on,  we 
remarked  a  natural  emissary,  or  katabathron,  formed  horizontally 
in  the  rock,  into  which  the  water  of  the  marsh  falls,  when  it 
overflows  its  usual  boundaries.  We  arrived  at  a  village  called 
Kakasialasi,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  plain.  Above  the 
village  is  a  ruined  tower  on  a  rock,  in  a  strong  position,  and 
evidently  erected  to  guard  the  pass.  It  is  apparently  of  Venetian 
construction ;  and  there  are  no  traces  of  antiquity,  except  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  where  some  foundations  of  walls,  composed  of  large 
rough  blocks,  indicate,  perhaps,  one  of  the  ancient  Attic  forts.  The 
plain  which  terminates  here  is  apparently  about  six  miles  in  length, 
and  two  in  breadth,  bounded  by  low  and  uniform  hills  :  part  of  it  is 
arable;  but,  the  greater  part  is  pasture  land.  After  the  pass  of 
Kakasialasi,  the  view  opens  upon  another  plain,  most  of  which  is 
uncultivated,  and  covered  with  bushes. 

As  we  proceeded,  the  village  of  Bagi  was  seen  to  the  left,  at  the 
foot  of  a  hill.  We  crossed  a  small  stream,  and  shortly  after  passed 
the  slow  and  muddy  Asopos  over  a  bridge  of  two  round  arches. 
When  we  arrived  within  a  mile  of  Thebes,  we  stopped  to  take  a 
general  view  of  the  Boeotian  capital,  with  its  beautiful  plain,  and  the 
varied  mountains  of  Bceotia,  Phocis,  and  Eubcea,  amongst  which 
Cithaeron,  Helicon,  Parnassos,  Phoinikios,  Ptoon,  and  the  Euboean 
Oche,'  were  conspicuously  magnificent. 

The  ruins  of  Platrea  were  distinguished  at  the  foot  of  Cithaeron, 
and  the  lake  of  Hylika  was  visible  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
Theban  Plain.  In  the  evening,  we  arrived  at  Thebes,  which  is  about 
four  hours  and  forty  minutes  from  Kakasialasi.  Before  we  quitted 
Thebes,  I  copied  the  following  inscription,  which  I  had  not  observed 
on  my  former  visit : 

1  According  to  Strabo,  Oche  was  the  greatest  mountain  in  Euboea,  b.  10.  p.  445, 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  AKRAIPHNION.  53 

Er*POETNHNH2KOTNNEOZflNxaifAij7spi7£/jm'0f 
TjyjEKrrMNAZIOrZTNTPOtOSAIaxiJAif 
eNHSKHAENnOAEMniTIMnPilNAEA^IAIXriPAI 
Sr)ftov  AE  [MIETANOPI A  AnATPOS  AENEHN02—  > 

The  next  morning,  the  19th,  we  proceeded;  and,  descending  the 
plain,  passed  the  village  of  Piri,  and  observed  some  buffaloes,  which 
are  not  common  in  Greece.  We  passed  by  the  conjunction  of  three 
roads,  that  to  the  right  leading  to  the  village  of  Morikios  and  the 
lake  of  Hylika ;  that  to  the  left  conducting  to  Eremo  Kastro,  and 
the  middle  one  leading  to  Libadea.  A  small  rapid  stream,  named 
Kanabari,  which  rises  among  the  ruins  of  Thespeia,  is  seen  in  this 
place  running  towards  the  bed  of  the  Ismenos ;  and,  after  rains,  they 
both  enter  the  lake  of  Hylika  in  one  stream  ;  but,  in  summer,  they  are 
absorbed  before  they  reach  that  destination.  The  plain  is  extremely 
fertile,  and  cultivated  with  corn ;  but  it  is  overgrown  with  poppies 
and  thistles,  diffusing  their  rich  variety  of  hues.  After  we  quitted 
Thebes  about  an  hour,  we  came  to  two  large  blocks  of  stone, 
between  which  the  road  passed.  Some  other  remains  appear  in 
the  vicinity.  We  crossed  the  streamless  Ismenos,  and  reached  the 
foot  of  the  hills  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  plain,  which  are 
low,  uniform,  rocky,  and  dotted  with  dark  shrubs.  The  bed  of  the 
Ismenos  forms  a  ravine  of  considerable  depth  in  this  place,  and  ter- 
minates in  the  lake  of  Hylika ;  which  is  one  hour  and  eleven  minutes 
from  Thebes. 

We  observed  several  traces,  and  some  sepulchres,  on  the  bank 
which  rises  from  the  lake :  they  probably  indicate  the  site  of  Hyle, 
mentioned  by  Homer2  and  Strabo;3  but  which,  as  well  as  the  lake, 


1  The  small  letters  are  the  restorations,  for  which,  as  for  the  Latin  explanation,  I  am 
indebted  to  Dr.  Young. 

Lsetitiam  exercebam  juvenis  (matrique  in  deliciis 
eram  vero)  e  gymnasio  sodalis  Aeacidis 
Morior  autem  in  bello,  defendens  Delphicam  regionem 
e  tribu  sum  Evanorida,  patreque  Neone. 
*  Iliad,  2.  v.  506.— Iliad,  5.  v.  "70S.  3  B.  9.  p.  407,  408. 


54  LAKE  OF  HYLE— RUINS  OF  AKRAIPHNION. 

is  unnoticed  by  Pausanias.  It  was  named,  indifferently,  Tx>?,  and 
Txixoc.  The  near  hills  were  probably  anciently  covered  with  forests ; 
at  least  so  the  name  Yx?;  would  seem  to  indicate,  unless  it  is  derived 
from  Exoc,  a  marsh.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Lake  of  Thebes,1  to 
distinguish  it  from  Kopais,  or  the  Lake  of  Libadea :  it  is  also  called 
the  Lake  of  Sengena,2  from  a  neighbouring  village  of  that  name; 
but  its  most  common  appellation  is  Lukaris. 

The  curving  line  of  the  lake  is  prettily  broken  by  abrupt  and 
rocky  promontories,  and  barren  hills.  Its  length,  including  its  si- 
nuosities, must  be  near  five  miles.  We  saw  the  village  of  Morikios, 
with  a  tower  in  a  plain,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  right  of  the 
lake.  Having  proceeded  in  a  circuitous  line,  on  account  of  the 
steepness  of  the  rocks,  we  descended  to  a  cultivated  plain,  and  came 
to  another  branch  of  the  lake,  which  was  to  our  left.  Upon  our 
arrival  at  the  village  of  Sengena,  we  dined  under  the  ample  shade  of 
a  large  fig-tree,  and  were  surrounded,  during  our  repast,  by  the 
entire  village  of  astonished  Albanians,  whose  curiosity,  however,  was 
not  attended  with  the  least  incivility.  We  proceeded  from  this 
place  in  a  north-west  direction,  passed  by  some  imperfect  traces, 
and  ascending  a  hill,  through  thick  bushes  of  lentiscus,  rosemary, 
and  myrtle,  stopped  to  quench  our  thirst  at  a  well,  where  the  water 
was  excellent.  After  a  continual  ascent,  we  entered  a  pastoral 
valley  in  the  mountains,  and  reached  the  village  of  Karditza  in  the 
evening. 

Upon  an  eminence,  above  the  village,  are  the  remains  of  a  city, 
which  there  is  every  reason  to  suppose  to  be  the  ancient  Akrai- 
phnion,3  the  foundation  of  which  some  attribute  to  Athamas,  and 
others  to  Akraipheos,  son  of  Apollo.  Strabo4  says,  that  it  was 
situated  on  a  high  spot,  before  Mount  Ptoon,  and  that  it  was  the 
Arne  of  Homer.     Pausanias5  calls  it  a  small  town,6  and  says  it  was 


1  7i)f  0i;j3a:y  Xijahj.  -  h,s  levysva;  Xifirtj. 

3  Axpanpii) — Herotlot.     Axpziipioy — Strabo.     A-npanpnov — Pausan.      Acrwpbia — Livy. 

4  B.  !'.  p.  1 13.  i  B.  9.  c.  23.  6  «Xi<r/xa. 


RUINS  OF  AKRAIPHNION.  55 

upon  Mount  Ptoon.  The  temple  of  Apollo  Ptoosi  was  fifteen  stadia 
from  the  town.  Near  this  place,  Latona  was  frightened  at  meeting 
a  wild  boar;  hence  the  name  Ptoon,  which  was  given  to  the  temple, 
and  to  the  hill  on  which  it  stood.  The  woody  parts  of  the  neigh- 
bouring mountains  still  abound  in  wild  boars.  This  explanation, 
however,  does  not  satisfy  Pausanias,  who  attributes  its  name  to 
Ptoos,  son  of  Athamas  and  Themiste.  According  to  Strabo,  the 
three-topped2  Ptoon  rises  from  theTeneric  plain.  Pausanias  notices 
a  temple  of  Bacchus  at  Akraiphnion ;  the  site  of  which  is  probably 
now  occupied  by  a  church  near  the  village,  which  is  almost  entirely 
composed  of  ancient  blocks  and  fragments. 

The  walls  of  the  city  are  in  most  places  level  with  the  soil ;  but, 
in  some  parts,  enough  remains  to  show  that  they  were  of  the  third 
style  of  construction  :  in  the  walls  of  the  Acropolis  are  the  remains 
of  a  small  gate,3  diminishing  slightly  towards  the  top:  it  is  without 
its  lintel. 

The  view  from  this  spot  abounds  in  beauty  and  in  interest.  The 
plain  of  Thebes,  with  its  capital,  is  distinguished  towards  the  south, 
with  the  lake  of  Hylika ;  while  the  distance  is  closed  by  Parnes  and 
Cithaeron.  Below  the  eye  was  the  plain  and  lake  Kopais,  terminated 
by  the  towering  heights  of  Helicon  and  Parnassos. 


TO  MARTINI. 


We  quitted  this  singular  and  retired  spot  on  the  20th,  and  after 
a  gentle  ascent,  in  a  northern  direction,  came  in  a  quarter  of  an 


1  Pausan  loc.  cit.     See  also  Herodot.  b.  8.  c.  135.  2  Tpixopvp*. 

3  Three  feet  five  inches  wide  at  the  base. 


56  RUINS  OF  KOPAI. 

hour  in  view  of  another  branch  of  Kopais  lake,  and  looked  down 
upon  a  low  insular  tongue  of  land,  projecting  from  the  foot  of  Ptoon, 
and  covered  with  the  ruins  of  a  small  ancient  city,  the  walls  of  which 
are  seen  encircling  it  near  the  water's  edge.  This  is  probably,  the 
ancient  Kopai,  which  is  included  in  Homer's'  enumeration  of  the 
Boeotian  cities  which  sent  forces  to  Troy.  A  summer  road,  or  cause- 
way, leads  to  this  island,  through  a  shallow  part  of  the  lake ;  but  it 
was  covered  with  water,  which  prevented  us  from  visiting  it.  Pau- 
sanias  calls  it  a  small  city,2  and  says  that  it  contained  the  temples3 
of  Ceres,  Bacchus,  and  Serapis.  Some  silver  dioboli  of  Kopai  have 
lately  been  found  at  Thebes;  one  side  has  the  fore  part  of  a  bull, 
and  KOITAiriN  :  rev.  the  Boeotian  shield. 

On  the  opposite  branch  of  the  lake,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Talanda,: 
the  ancient  Kyrtonon,  we  find  a  place  called  Topolias,  with  a  few 
remains  of  a  city,  perhaps  the  ancient  Olmones,  or  Halmons ;  which, 
according  to  Pausanias,  Avas  twelve  stadia  from  Kopai. 

We  proceeded  through  a  village  called  Kokinos,  forty  minutes 
beyond  which  we  entered  a  plain ;  probably  that  which  Pausanias* 
denominates  the  plain  of  Athamas.  Twenty  minutes  farther  are 
some  traces  near  the  lake  which  was  to  our  left.  At  this  place  is 
situated  one  of  the  katabathra,  or  emissaries  of  the  lake;  of  which 
a  description  has  been  given  in  the  former  volume,s  which  it  would 
be  unnecessary  to  repeat. 

We  quitted  the  lake ;  and,  proceeding  eastward,  passed  through 
a  glen,  where  several  square  shafts  are  cut  in  the  rock,  as  air  holes 
for  the  workmen  who  cleaned  out  the  katabathra. 

We  crossed  a  vale  of  corn;  and,  ascending  through  a  narrow 
barren  glen,  descended  to  a  cultivated  plain  of  a  circular  form,  which 
it  took  us  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  pass.  The  mountains  of  Euboea 
are  distinguished  on  the  right;  but  some  elevated  land  intercepts 


'  Iliad,  b.  2.  v.  39.     It  is  indifferently  written  Kuitcm  and  Ku,:raiai. 
"  B.  9.  c.  24.  noXiirfici.  'ifca.  4  Loc.  cit.  5  Vol.  I.e.  8. 


PASS  OF  ANDERA.     ISLAND  OF  ATALANTE.  57 

the  view  of  the  sea.  Having  passed  for  a  short  time  over  a  barren 
tract,  we  entered  another  plain,  cultivated  Avith  corn  and  vineyards, 
and  in  the  afternoon  arrived  at  a  village  called  Martini,  situated  on 
an  eminence,  an  hour  and  a  half  from  the  Opuntian  Gulf,  which  is 
seen  with  the  grand  and  rocky  mountains  of  Euboea. 


TO  LIBANATIS. 

We  quitted  Martini  on  the  morning  of  the  21st;  our  road  passed 
in  a  north-west  direction,  along  the  side  of  a  hill ;  to  the  north- 
east was  an  extensive  plain,  the  gulf,  and  Euboea.  We  ascended 
through  a  forest  of  small  firs ;  and  in  an  hour  and  forty  minutes  from 
Martini,  came  to  some  ancient  traces  of  small  extent,  a  few  hundred 
paces  beyond  which,  is  the  pretty  village  of  Proskyna,  green  with 
the  foliage  of  the  pomegranate,  the  olive,  and  the  fig.  It  is 
pervaded  by  a  small  stream,  which  takes  a  direction  towards 
the  sea.  The  village  was  quite  deserted,  nothing  but  the  bare 
walls  of  the  cottages  remaining.  On  an  eminence  to  the  right 
are  some  ancient  traces.  We  proceeded  through  a  rich  and 
beautiful  valley,  and  came  to  a  small  forest  of  firs.  Having 
crossed  a  stream,  a  picturesque  acclivity  rose  to  the  left,  crowned 
with  a  monastery,  and  exhibiting  a  few  scattered  cottages  at  its 
base.  Half  an  hour  beyond  this  place  the  plain  terminates,  and 
a  rapid  stream  enters  the  sea.  This  is  probably  the  Platanios 
of  Pausanias.1  Here  is  a  narrow  pass,  called  Andera,  and  the 
remains  of  a  strong  wall,  running,  for  about  seventy  paces,  from  the 

1  B.  9.  c.  24. 
VOL.  II.  I 


58  RUINS  OF  TWO  CITIES.     TOWN  OF  TALANDA. 

foot  of  a  steep  hill  to  the  margin  of  the  sea.  The  wall  is  composed 
of  rough  blocks,  some  of  which  are  ten  feet  in  length.  This  is  pro- 
bably the  boundary  between  Bceotia  and  Locris  Opuntia.  At  this 
place  a  stream  issues  from  the  rock  and  enters  the  sea. 

We  proceeded  through  an  extensive  plain,  with  the  Opuntian 
Gulf  on  our  right,  bounded  by  the  Eubcean  mountains ;  and  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  from  the  pass,  came  to  some  ancient  traces  and 
foundations.  Near  the  Locrian  shore  is  an  island,  and  two  small 
contiguous  rocks  called  Talanda,  the  ancient  Atalante ;  which,  ac- 
cording to  Diodorus  Siculus,1  was  originally  a  peninsula  of  Eubcea, 
from  which  it  was  detached  by  an  earthquake.  This  circumstance  is 
also  noticed  by  Strabo2  and  Pliny.3  The  Athenians4  strengthened  it 
with  a  fortress,  for  the  purpose  of  annoying  the  Locrians,  and  making 
descents  upon  their  coast.  Subsequent  earthquakes,  to  which  the  coast 
is  very  liable,  probably  divided  the  island  into  three  separate  rocks. 
In  an  hour  from  the  pass  of  Andera,  Ave  came  to  the  remains  of  a 
city,  consisting  of  confused  and  scattered  blocks  and  foundations. 
The  soil,  which  is  considerably  raised  above  its  ancient  level,  is  fertile, 
and  covered  with  bushes.  This  is  probably  the  site  of  Opous, 
which,  according  to  Strabo,5  was  opposite  the  island  of  Atalante, 
fifteen  stadia  from  the  sea,  and  sixty  from  the  port  of  Cynos,  and 
was  the  metropolis  of  the  Locri  Opuntii.  Livyb  asserts  that  it  was 
one  mile  from  the  sea,  and  that  Cynos  was  its  emporium. 

Between  this  place  and  Cynos  was  a  rich  plain,7  which  at  present 
is  traversed  by  several  torrent  beds,  from  the  neighbouring  hills, 
and  cultivated  with  corn  and  a  few  vineyards ;  but  a  great  part  of 
this  fertile  spot  is  left  in  a  wild  and  unpeopled  state.  The  coast  of 
Euboea  is  seen  at  the  distance  of  about  fifteen  miles.  The  ruins  of 
the  city  of  Aidepsos8  and  the  warm  baths  of  Hercules  were  opposite 

1   B.  12.  c.  .59.  *  B.  1.  p.  60.  3  Nat.  Hist.  b.  2.  c.  SS. 

4  Thucyd.  b.  2.  c.  4.  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  12.  c.  44. — About  the  island  of  Atalante,  see 
Georg.  Sjncell.  Chronograph,  p.  257,  Paris  edit. 

5  B.  9.  p.  425.  6  B.  28.  c.  6. 

7  vtSiov  EuJaimov — Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  425.  "  Ibid. 


VILLAGE  OF  LIBANATIS.     RUINS  OF  A  CITY.  59 

to  us,  but  could  not  be  distinguished.  About  an  hour  from  this  spot 
we  came  to  the  remains  of  another  city,  with  traces  and  foundations 
occupying  a  considerable  extent.  Here  is  a  church,  which  is  in  a 
great  measure  composed  of  ancient  remains,  and  a  few  paces  from 
it  is  an  antique  thro?ws  of  grey  marble. 

In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  from  these  ruins  we  arrived  at  the  town 
of  Talanda,  which  is  peopled  with  an  equal  proportion  of  Turks 
and  Greeks ;  the  former  having  two  mosques,  and  the  latter  a 
bishop,  suffragan  of  the  metropolitan  of  Athens ;  it  is  about  six 
miles  from  the  sea,  and  is  situated  in  a  recess  of  the  vale,  at  the  foot 
of  a  mountain,1  which  has  the  same  name  as  the  town.  It  is  en- 
livened with  gardens  and  large  trees,  and  its  appearance  is  green 
and  cheerful.  Parnassos  is  seen  over  the  lower  part  of  Mount 
Talanda,  towards  the  south-west,  towering  to  a  great  height;  its 
outline  is  of  a  serrated  form,  and  its  northern  glens  are  covered 
with  snow.  Some  ancient  fragments,  and  an  inscription  containing 
the  name  of  the  city  of  Opous,  are  observed  at  Talanda ;  but  these 
have,  no  doubt,  been  brought  from  a  distance.  Talanda  itself  ex- 
hibits no  vestiges  of  antiquity,  and  in  no  respect  corresponds  with 
the  situation  of  the  capital  of  the  Locri. 

In  pursuing  our  journey,  we  crossed  the  plain  in  a  north-east 
direction,  passed  over  a  torrent  bed,  and  the  great  road  leading  to 
Libadea.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Libanatis,  which  is  one  hour 
and  a  half  from  Talanda,  and  is  agreeably  situated  amongst  corn  fields, 
interspersed  with  olive  trees,  and  commanding  a  view  of  Euboea 
and  its  gulf.  Our  lodging  was  the  cottage  of  a  poor  Albanian 
woman,  who  was  lamenting  the  loss  of  her  husband,  who  some  time 
before  had  been  killed  by  thieves  while  her  infant  son  was  taken 
prisoner,  whom  she  had  ransomed  for  300  Turkish  piastres,  the 
savings  of  several  years  ! 

While  our  dinner  was  preparing  at  the  village,  we  rode  to  the 
sea-side,  which  is  about  a  mile  from  it,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring 


1  The  ancient  Kyrtonon.     Pausan.  b.  9.  c.  24. 

i  2 


6'0  REMAINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 

the  ruins  of  a  small  city  and  fortress.  There  are  several  traces  and 
foundations  of  walls,  and  the  fort  stands  on  a  rocky  promontory 
rising  from  the  sea.  It  is  now  called  Pyrgos,  from  a  modern  tower 
which  is  composed  of  ancient  blocks.  This  spot  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  gulf,  and  the  magnificent  precipices  of  Euboea;  but 
finding  nothing  to  detain  us  here,  and  distrusting  the  suspicious  ap- 
pearance of  a  boat,  which  landed  some  men  at  the  foot  of  the  pro- 
montory, who  were  evidently  endeavouring  to  elude  our  observation, 
we  were  glad  to  retrace  our  steps  to  the  village,  and  eat  our  pilau 
with  more  appetite  than  we  should  have  done  if  we  had  fallen  into 
t,he  hands  of  the  pirates  who  infest  the  Euboean  coast. 

The  next  morning,  the  23d,  we  rode  about  a  mile  inland  from  the 
village  to  inspect  the  remains  of  a  city  upon  a  hill,  the  summit  of 
which  is  encompassed  by  the  walls,  which  are  in  a  state  of  great 
dilapidation  and  of  small  extent. 

On  a  neighbouring  eminence  is  a  monastery,  called  Palaio  Chorio, 
where  we  found  nothing  worthy  of  notice  except  the  view,  in  which 
the  Opuntian  Gulf  assumes  the  soft  and  beautiful  appearance  of  a 
fresh  water  lake.  It  is  seen  bounded  by  the  mountains  of  Euboea, 
Boeotia,  and  Locris,  enlivened  by  the  rich  intermediate  plain 
of  Opous,  while  the  smooth  expanse  of  water  is  broken  by  the 
island  of  Atalante,  and  some  long  promontories  which  shoot  out 
from  the  Locrian  shore. 


TO  LONGAKI. 


We  returned  through  Libanatis,  and,  on  quitting  it,  observed  an 
ancient  well  and  a  torrent  bed.    In  half  an  hour  we  saw  some  ancient 


THE  LOCRIAN  COAST.  61 

but  imperfect  traces  not  far  from  a  village  named  Tornitza,  which  was 
situated  in  the  plain  to  our  right.  At  the  distance  of  half  an  hour 
more  we  remarked  other  similar  remains,  and  a  cave  on  a  rocky  hill 
to  the  left.  At  this  point  the  country  becomes  rich  and  smiling, 
and  the  hills  display  a  lively  intermixture  of  rock  and  verdure. 

In  twenty-five  minutes  from  the  last  mentioned  traces,  we 
came  to  the  remains  of  a  city  as  imperfect  as  the  others  that 
we  had  seen  along  this  coast.  Their  total  state  of  dilapidation 
renders  them  of  little  interest;  and  no  inscriptions  are  found  to 
give  an  insight  into  their  ancient  names  :  this  circumstance  excites 
the  more  regret,  as  the  conjectures  of  the  traveller  are  not  here 
assisted  by  the  guidance  of  Pausanias,  who  scarcely  mentions  the 
Locrians.  And  although  Strabo  is  more  than  usually  minute  in  his 
description  of  this  country,  yet  he  has  made  several  omissions  and 
apparent  errors  in  distances,  and  has  passed  by  some  towns  without 
recording  even  their  names.1  The  appearance  of  the  Locrian  coast, 
and  the  course  of  its  rivers,  which  have  been  considerably  altered 
by  the  frequent  and  violent  convulsions  of  nature,  is  another  great 
cause  of  the  difficulty  of  ascertaining  the  names  and  relative  situa- 
tions of  the  towns  and  rivers  noticed  by  the  geographer.  He  first 
mentions  Opous,  and  the  maritime  town  of  Cynos  ;  next  Alope,  and 
Daphnous,  of  which  the  latter  was  in  ruins  in  his  time.  It  had  a  port 
ninety  stadia  from  Cynos.  Twenty  stadia  from  Daphnous  was  the 
town  of  Knemis,  the  capital  of  the  Hypoknemidian  Locrians,  This 
was  opposite  the  promontory  Kenaion,  or  Cenaeum,  in  Euboea,  and 
the  three  islands  named  Lichades.  Twenty  stadia  from  Knemis  was 
a  port,  from  which  the  town  of  Thronion  was  distant  twenty  stadia 
inland.  He  then  mentions  the  mouth  of  the  Boagrios,  and  the  town 
of  Skarphe,  ten  stadia  from  the  sea,  and  thirty  from  Thronion  ;  after 
which  he  places  Nicaea  and  Thermopylae.     He  also  mentions  Alos 


1  These   are,   no  doubt,  amongst  those  which  he  thought  not  worthy  of  notice,  luiv  h 
Xonrwv  toAecov  Iujy,  ptv  aXXwy  oux.  a^iov  /j.ijj.vr^M. — B.  9.  p.  426. 


62  BEAUTY  OF  THE  SCENERY. 

and  Alious,  on  the  Locrian  coast ;  and  says  that  the  fortresses  of 
Nicaea,  Tichious,  Herakleia,  and  Rodountia,  are  within  the  pass  ; 
that  is,  on  the  Locrian  side.  Homer,  under  the  word  Locrians, 
includes  the  Opuntian  and  Hypoknemidian ;  and  says  that  forty 
vessels  were  equipped  against  Troy  by  the  united  resources  of 
Cynos,  Opoeis,  Kalliaros,  Bessa,  Skarphe,  Augeiai,  Tarphe,  and 
Thronion.  Pausanias1  observes,  that  Herodotus  does  not  mention 
the  number  of  men  which  the  Locri,  who  inhabited  the  foot  of 
Mount  Knemis,  sent  to  Thermopylae  against  the  Persians ;  but 
that  he  only  asserts  that  all  the  towns  of  that  country  supplied 
some.  Herodotus2  does  not  mention  the  Hypoknemidii,3  but 
probably  includes  both  the  Locrians  under  the  name  of  Opuntii, 
as  Pausanias  appears  to  do  under  that  of  Hypoknemidii ;  for  the 
number  of  6000  men,  which  the  latter  conjectures  to  have  been 
their  contingent,  was  too  great  a  force  for  the  narrow  slip  of  land 
within  which  the  territory  of  the  Hypoknemidii  was  confined. 
Herodotus,  in  another  place,4  says,  that  the  Opuntian  Locri  sent 
seven  fifty-oared  vessels  against  the  Persians  at  the  battle  of  Arte- 
mision.  Diodorus  Siculus5  asserts  that  the  Locrians,  after  wavering 
with  irresolution  and  acting  with  duplicit}'  towards  both  the  Greeks 
and  Persians,  at  last  furnished  a  contingent  of  1000  men  against  the 
latter  at  Thermopylae.  It  is  singular  that  Pausanias  should  differ  so 
widely  from  Diodorus. 

When  Brennus  attacked  Greece,  the  Locrians,  who  lived  near  the 
island  of  Atalante,  despatched  700  infantry  to  defend  the  pass  of 
Thermopylae.6 

I  have  made  the  above  digression  in  order  to  show  how  very 


'  B.  10.  c.  20.  2  B.  7.  c.  203. 

3  Pausanias  is  the  only  author  who  calls  them  Tttoxc^iJioi.  They  are  named  E7nxvij|K,<$(oj 
by  Strabo  and  others,  but  I  have  throughout  followed  the  readings  of  Pausanias  in  order  to 
avoid  confusion.     It  is  written  EiruoojitiiJioi  upon  their  coins. 

4  B.  8.  c.  1.  *  B.  11.  c.  4.  6  Pausan.  b.  10.  c.  20. 


BEAUTY  OF  THE  SCENERY.  63 

difficult  it  is  to  identify  the  remains  which  are  seen  at  present  in 
this  country,  with  the  descriptions  of  them  which  have  been  left  us 
by  ancient  authors. 

The  country  as  we  proceeded  received  new  charms  from  the 
increasing  height  of  the  mountains,  and  the  varied  luxuriance 
of  the  plains.  The  hand  of  man  had  not  introduced  any  arti- 
ficial accessaries ;  and  nature,  wild  and  uncultivated,  showed  her- 
self in  all  her  glowing  variety  of  hues  and  unrestrained  profusion  of 
charms.  On  our  left  the  long  range  of  Mount  Knemis  united  with 
the  distant  Oeta  towards  Thermopylae ;  which  celebrated  pass  we 
thought,  or  rather  wished  to  believe,  that  we  now  distinguished  for 
the  first  time. 

Our  constant  companion,  the  Opuntian  Gulf,  and  the  mountain- 
ous Eubcea,  were  still  on  our  right,  and  the  Thessalian  rocks  were 
faintly  visible  beyond  the  Cenaean  promontory.  This  impressive 
scenery,  through  which  we  travelled,  brought  us  to  some  ancient 
but  imperfect  traces  near  the  sea.  A  hill  of  deep  verdure  rose 
upon  the  left,  while  a  salt  spring  was  seen  issuing  from  its  foot. 
We  crossed  a  rapid  stream,  and  found  the  beauty  of  the  landscape 
increasing  at  every  step  of  the  way.  The  country  was  adorned 
with  platani,  wild  olives,  and  innumerable  shrubs  of  odoriferous 
powers  and  elegant  forms. 

We  crossed  some  small  rivulets,  forming  a  marsh  near  the  sea, 
and  soon  after  crossed  another  stream  in  a  wide  maeandering  channel 
of  little  depth,  but  which  is  large  and  rapid  after  heavy  rains.  We 
met  very  few  inhabitants  in  this  now  deserted,  but  once  populous 
tract  of  country.  Some  flocks  of  goats  Avere  seen  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  some  labourers  with  their  oxen  ploughing  the  rich 
soil,  which  is  almost  spontaneously  productive  of  exuberant  har- 
vests, as  the  climate  is  so  happily  tempered,  that  the  crops  are 
never  nipped  by  the  frost  nor  blighted  by  the  drought.  The 
streams,  which  flow  from  the  Knemidian  mountains,  quicken  the 
vegetation  and  enrich  the  land. 


64  VILLAGE  OF  LONGAKI. 

About  500  paces  from  from  the  last  mentioned  river  we  crossed 
another  stream  in  an  extensive  channel ;  and  in  thirty-five  minutes 
more  we  passed  another.  The  traveller  through  this  country 
during  the  winter  has  to  encounter  numerous  impediments,  owing 
to  the  want  of  bridges  over  the  streams,  which,  descending  in 
frequent  masses  from  the  precipitous  heights  of  the  Knemidian 
mountains,  are  soon  accumulated  into  impassable  and  roaring  tor- 
rents. We  passed  over  a  low  promontory  near  the  sea,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  further  came  to  another,  upon  which  are  several  fine 
foundations,  composed  of  large  and  regular  masonry.  Their  extent 
is  not  considerable,  and  they  probably  indicate  the  remains  of  a 
fort  and  a  small  town.  The  Cenrean  promontory,  or  the  north- 
west point  of  Euboea,  with  the  Lichades  islands,  the  distant  Thes- 
salian  mountains,  and  some  long  promontories  projecting  from 
the  rocks  of  Oeta,  compose  the  beautiful  view  which  is  seen  from 
this  spot. 

On  quitting  the  promontory,  we  crossed  a  stream,  and  passed 
through  the  village  of  Neochorio,  where  a  few  small  huts  are  screened 
by  the  shade  of  some  large  evergreen  oaks,  and  where  some  grand 
precipices  are  piled  together  on  the  left  of  the  road.  We  dined 
under  some  wide  spreading  platani,  enjoying  the  beauty  of  the  view, 
and  the  tranquillity  of  the  spot. 

We  proceeded  along  the  sea  side,  and  crossed  two  streams.  At 
the  close  of  the  day,  some  magnificent  precipices  rose  on  our  left ; 
twenty-five  minutes  beyond  which,  we  crossed  four  small  streams. 
Half  an  hour  more  brought  us  to  the  village  of  Longaki,  where  we 
arrived  an  hour  after  dark,  having  been  detained  on  the  way  by 
making  drawings  of  the  beautiful  scenery  which  so  frequently  pre- 
sented itself  to  our  admiration. 

Longaki  is  delightfully  situated.  A  captivating  interchange  of 
wood  and  water,  of  mountains  and  valleys,  is  combined  with  the 
advantages  of  a  fertile  soil  and  a  salubrious  climate.  Near  the 
village  are  some  of  the  largest  fig-trees  that  I  ever  beheld.     They 


VILLAGE  OF  LONGAKI.  65 

are  the  Jicus  sycamorus,  which  are  common  in  Egypt,  and  grow  in 
many  parts  of  Greece  and  Italy.  Their  fruit  is  insipid,  and  so 
extremely  unwholesome,  that  it  is  very  rarely  eaten.  The  modern 
Greeks  call  it  <pguy%o<rv%ct,  "  the  Franks'  fig." 

Early  the  next  morning  Ave  ascended  an  eminence  above  the  vil- 
lage, and  took  a  view  of  the  Maliac  Gulf,  the  mountains  of  Eubcea 
terminating  its  north-west  point  in  the  Censeum  promontory  and 
Lichades  islands.  The  distance  was  closed  by  the  lofty  range  and 
undulating  line  of  the  Thessalian  mountains,  while  the  rich  plain 
and  village  of  Longaki  were  the  objects  more  immediately  in  view. 


TO  THE  PASS  OF  THERMOPYLAE. 

On  the  24th  we  pursued  our  journey.  The  road  was  near  the 
sea ;  and  the  mountains  rose  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  our 
left.  We  crossed  a  small  marsh,  and  two  streams,  and  had  a  view 
of  the  open  iEgean  sea,  between  Euboea  and  the  Thessalian  shore, 
with  the  islands  of  Skopelos1  and  Skiathos2  towards  the  north-east. 
Turning  to  the  south-west,  the  summits  of  Parnassos  were  distin- 
guished, glittering  with  snow,  over  a  dip  of  Mount  Knemis. 

As  we  proceeded,  the  road  was  terminated  by  the  interruption  of 
rocks  and  bushes,  and  we  rode  for  ten  minutes  through  a  shallow 
part  of  the  sea.     We  passed  through  a  village  named  Dervitziali, 

1  This  island  retains  its  ancient  name,  and  is  about  four  miles  east  of  Skiathos,  and 
twenty-one  from  Euboea. 

4  It  retains  its  ancient  name,  and  is  about  fourteen  miles  north  of  Euboea. 
VOL.  II.  K 


66  APPROACH  TO  THERMOPYLAE. 

with  a  mixed  population  of  Turks  and  Greeks;  whereas  all  the 
country  between  Talanda  and  this  place  is  occupied  by  Greeks 
alone.  Half  an  hour  from  this  village,  we  passed  through  another, 
named  Andera,  the  inhabitants  of  which  carry  on  some  commerce 
in  silk ;  and  the  vicinity  is  thickly  planted  with  mulberry  trees. 
We  here  observed  a  great  many  geese,  which  are  generally  very 
scarce  in  Greece.  In  our  way  we  crossed  two  streams,  both  of 
which  are  rapid  and  clear;  and  the  wide  channel  of  one  shows  that 
it  must  form  a  considerable  current  during  the  winter  months.  Half 
an  hour  further  we  crossed  several  rivulets,  whose  united  waters  are 
rolled  into  a  respectable  river,  near  the  sea.  This  is  probably  the 
Boagrios,  which  according  to  Homer,1  Strabo,2  Pliny,3  and  Pau- 
sanias,4  flowed  near  the  town  of  Thronion;  it  was  also  known  by 
the  name  of  Mane,  and  was  a  mere  torrent,  being  sometimes  dry, 
and  at  other  times  full  of  water;5  it  once  changed  its  course  dur- 
ing an  earthquake.6  The  geographer  says  that  the  town  of  Thro- 
nion was  near  this  river,  at  twenty  stadia  from  its  mouth  ;  at  the 
distance  of  about  two  miles  from  the  sea,  we  find  a  church,  composed 
of  ancient  fragments,  with  a  few  traces  about  it,  and  an  inscription 
containing  the  name  of  Thronion. 

"We  rested  a  short  time  at  the  village  of  Katomolo,  and  made  in- 
quiries if  there  were  any  ruins  in  the  vicinity.  A  town,  named  Bo- 
dronitza,  was  pointed  out  to  us,  situated  high  up  the  mountain, 
and  about  five  miles  inland,  where  they  said  there  were  several 
traces  of  antiquity.  Its  situation  corresponds  with  none  of  the  cities 
mentioned  by  Strabo.  Thronion  and  Skarphe,  which  were  in  this 
part  of  Locris,  were  much  nearer  the  sea.  At  the  foot  of  the  hills 
is  the  village  of  Apano  Molo,  or  Upper  Molo. 

We  pursued  our  journey,  and  soon  after  crossing  two  streams 
observed  a  tumulus  of  stones  to  the  right,  upon  an  artificial  bank 
that  had  been  elevated  from  a  marsh.     As  we  approached  the  pass 

'  Iliad,  2.  v.  533.  "  B.  9.  p.  42G.  J   Nat.  Hist.  b.  +.  c.  7. 

*  B.  5.  c.  22.  5  Strabo,  loc.  cit.  6  Id.  b.  1 .  p.  GO. 


BEAUTY  OF  THE  SCENERY  NEAR  THERMOPYLAE.  67 

of  Thermopylae,  the  scenery  assumed  at  once  an  aspect  of  more 
beauty  and  sublimity. 

To  our  left  were  the  lofty  and  shattered  precipices  of  Oeta,  co- 
vered with  forests,  while  silver  lines  of  descending  springs  sparkled 
in  the  shade.     The  luxuriant  plain  of  Trachis,  encircled  by  distant 
mountains,  was  expanded  in  our  front;  while,  on  the  right,  the  eye 
expatiated  over  the  marshes  of  Thermopylae,  and  the  Maliac  Gulf 
reaching  to  the  foot  of  the  Thessalian  heights.    Our  way  led  through 
a  forest-shade  of  various  trees  of  stately  growth,  beneath  which  a 
dispersion  of  odoriferous  and  flowery  shrubs  scented  the  air,  while 
the  clustering  vine  hung  its  fantastic  garlands  from  the  wide-branch- 
ing platanus.    The  scene  was  one  of  voluptuous  blandishment.     No 
gratification  was  wanting  which  the  enraptured  lover  of  landscape 
could  desire.    Nature  here  displayed  all  her  multiform  charms.    The 
exuberant  soil  teemed  with  a  captivating  wilderness  of  plants  and 
flowers.     The  olive,  the  laurel,  the  oleander,  and  the  arbutus,1  the 
terebinth,  rosemary,  agnos,  yellow  jasmine,  and  lentiscus,  the  christa- 
kanthos,z  tamarisk,'  and  gummy  cistus,  luxuriated  on  all  sides,  and 
seemed  to  revel  in  the  genial  clime. 

We  now  approached  the  spot  where  the  best  blood  of  Greece, 
and  of  other  nations,  had  so  often  been  spilt.  A  few  paces  to  the 
left  of  the  road  is  a  green  hillock,  with  a  house  upon  its  summit, 
which  was  once  a  derbeni,  or  custom-house.  Here  the  horizontal 
surface  of  the  rock  is  cut  into  channels,  for  the  reception  of  the 
water  which  comes  from  the  neighbouring  springs.  The  marsh 
begins  immediately  on  the  right,  extending  about  a  mile  to  the  sea; 
but  the  narrowest  part  of  the  pass  is  further  on.  The  battle  raged 
with  the  greatest  fury  in  the  widest  part  of  the  pass,  where  Leoni- 
das   so  gloriously  fell.     After  his  death,4  the  surviving  Spartans 

'  I  observed  two  kinds  of  arbuti,  the  Unedo  and  the  Andrachne. 

*  TheZiziphus  paliurus;  Spina  ChristiorRhamnus,being  the  UaXiavpo;  of Theophrastus. 

•  The  Mvpixi)  of  Theophrastus.  4  Herodot.  b.  1.  c.  223. 

K  2 


68  THE  PASS  OF  THERMOPYLAE. 

and  Thespeians,  repassing  their  fortifications,  took  post  upon  a 
hillock1  at  the  commencement  of  the  defile,  where  they  made  a 
desperate  defence  till  they  were  surrounded  and  destroyed.  I  con- 
ceive the  derveni  hill  to  be  the  spot  to  which  Herodotus  alludes. 
It  is  probable  also,  that  these  devoted  heroes  were  buried  where 
they  fell,  and  that  this  hill  served  as  their  common  sepulchre.2 

As  the  shades  of  night  were  enveloping  the  interesting  scene,  we 
had  not  time  for  a  more  minute  investigation.  We  therefore  con- 
tinued our  route;  and  about  twenty-five  minutes  from  the  derbeni, 
crossed  two  streams,  one  of  which  was  warm,  the  other  cold  :  fifty 
minutes  more  brought  us  to  the  narrowest  part  of  the  pass,  where 
we  entered  Thessaly.  But  as  it  was  dark,  we  reserved,  till  the  next 
day,  the  attentive  contemplation  of  a  spot  which  is  consecrated  by 
historical  recollections  of  the  most  lofty  and  animating  kind.  It  is 
a  locality  that  is  peculiarly  fitted  to  kindle  the  glow  of  classical  en- 
thusiasm in  the  breast.  We  passed  the  streams  which  issue  from 
the  hot  springs ;  and  crossing  a  bridge  over  the  river  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  pass,  arrived  at  a  khan  a  little  before  ten,  after  a 
very  interesting,  though  fatiguing  day. 

Before  I  undertake  a  description  of  this  place,  it  may  be  necessary 
to  observe  that  if  the  traveller  takes  Herodotus  and  Strabo  for  un- 
erring guides  in  his  examination  of  this  celebrated  spot,  he  will  be 
liable  to  be  misled  at  almost  every  step  of  his  way.  Nor  will  the  du- 
bious light  which  they  afford  enable  him  to  identify  scarcely  any  thing 
but  the  pass  itself,  and  the  thermal  springs,  which  remain  as  they 
were  in  their  time.  It  must,  however,  be  understood  that  I  am  by 
no  means  accusing  the  above-named  authors  of  inaccuracy  or  negli- 
gence in  their  descriptions ;  and  much  less  Herodotus,  whose  ac- 
count was,  no  doubt,  perfectly  suitable  to  the  place  at  the  time  he 
wrote.  But  the  whole  country  has  since  experienced  great  physical 
as  well  as  moral  revolutions.    The  sea  has  retired  ;  rivers  have  altered 

Kq\cvvos.  Herodot.  b.  7.  c.  225.  2  IIo\vav8pn>Y .  Strabo,  b.  y.  p.  425. 


THE  PASS  OF  THERMOPYLAE  AND  THERMAL  SPRINGS.        69 

their  courses  ;  and  towns,  castles,  and  temples,  have  been  swept 
from  the  surface  of  the  earth,  or  ingulfed  in  the  marshes,  and  over- 
grown with  reeds  and  bushes.  Considering  all  these  various  changes 
and  convulsions  of  nature,  it  is  not  surprising  that  out  of  six  cele- 
brated rivers,1  which  discharged  themselves  into  the  sea  in  the 
vicinity  of  Thermopylae,  only  three  can  at  present  be  identified 
with  any  degree  of  certainty ;  these  are  the  Boagrios,  the  Asopos, 
and  the  Spercheios. 

Impressed  with  these  difficulties,  we  returned  to  the  pass  the 
next  morning.  We  crossed  a  bridge  of  three  pointed  arches, 
over  a  river  now  called  Ellada,  which  is  probably  the  Sper- 
cheios; and,  soon  after,  passed  through  a  smaller  stream,  which 
I  conceive  to  be  the  Asopos ;  and  in  twenty  minutes  from  the 
khan,  reached  the  thermal  springs,  from  which  the  pass  took  the 
name  of  Thermopylae,  which  was  its  general  designation  among 
the  Greeks,  although  the  inhabitants  called  it  Pylae.*  It  is  still 
denominated  Therma.  The  principal  spring  bubbles  out  from  the 
ground  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  rock,  which,  perhaps  constituted 
the  Lithos  Melampygos  of  the  ancients,  where  Hercules  liberated 
two  of  his  enemies,  because  they  excited  his  merriment  by  laughing 
at  the  blackness  of  his  skin,  while  he  was  carrying  them  on  his  back, 
holding  them  by  the  feet  with  their  heads  downwards. 

The  water  of  the  springs  is  hot,  sulphurous,  and  remarkably  clear; 
and  Pausanias*  says  that  he  never  saw  any  water  so  blue.  It  de- 
posits a  calcareous  concretion,  which  attaches  itself  to  reeds  and 
sticks,  like  the  waters  of  the  Anio  at  Tivoli,  and  the  sulphurous 
lake  between  that  place  and  Rome.  Dr.  Clarke4  found  its  tem- 
perature in  the  month  of  December  to  be  111  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit's thermometer.  Herodotus5  says  that  the  hot  baths,  called  xu7i0i 
by  the  inhabitants,  were  at  the  pass,  and  that  the  altar  of  Hercules 


1  The  Boagrios,  Melas,  Dyras,  Phoenix,  Asopos,  and  Spercheios. 

2  Livy,  b.  36.  c.  1.5.    Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  420.  s  B.  4.  c.  35. 

4  See  Dr.  Clarke's  Travels  in  Greece,  vol.  4.  c.  8.  p.  247.  5  B.  7.  c.  176, 


70        THE  PASS  OF  THERMOPYLAE  AND  THERMAL  SPRINGS. 

was  in  the  vicinity.     This  demigod  presided  over  warm  baths,  but 
not  over  cold  ones  : 

vo'j  ■fyvyjja.  Stjla,  TtiuTtoT  hit;  Hf  axXeia, 
Aoulgx  ;' 

The  springs  are  very  copious,  and  immediately  form  several  rapid 
streams  running  into  the  sea,  which  is  apparently  about  one  mile 
from  the  pass. 

Philostratus*  informs  us  that  baths  were  built  here  for  the  infirm 
by  Herodes  Atticus. 

Near  the  springs  are  the  faint  traces  of  a  wall  and  a  circular 
tower,  composed  of  a  thick  mass  of  small  stones,  and  not  ap- 
parently of  high  antiquity.  The  foot  of  the  mountain  is  however 
covered  with  trees  and  impenetrable  bushes,  that  probably  hide 
from  our  view  the  earlier  fortifications,  which  were  usually  com- 
posed of  those  large  and  ponderous  masses  that  seem  to  defy  the 
ravages  of  time.  Herodotus3  says,  that  the  wall  which  the  Phoceans 
had  built  as  a  protection  against  the  inroads  of  the  Thessalians,  was 
near  the  spring,  and  that  it  was  formerly  occupied  by  gates.  These 
were  probably  rebuilt  and  fortified  at  different  periods,  particularly 
when  any  northern  invasion  was  apprehended ;  additional  works 
were  made  by  Antiochus  the  Great.  The  iEtolians  rendered  the 
pass  more  impregnable  by  the  addition  of  ditches  and  ramparts, 
when  they  dreaded  the  approach  of  Philip,  the  last  of  Macedon.4 
According  to  Procopius,5  they  were  repaired  by  Justinian,  who  also 
made  cisterns  for  the  reception  of  rain  water. 

Several  other  great  events,  besides  the  Persian  invasion,  add 
considerable  historical  interest  to  this  spot.  The  Greeks,  when 
contending  against  Brennus,6  and  his  Gauls,  and  the  Romans7 
against  Antiochus,  fought  on  the  same  ground  which  had  been 
dyed  with  Spartan  blood. 

1  Where  did  you  ever  see  any  cold  Herakleian  baths? — Aristoph.  Nubes,  v.  1047. 
"  B.  2.  c.  5.  3  B.  7.  c.  176.  4  Polyb.  b.  10.  p. 

■  De  /Edific.  b.  4.  c.  12.  p.  69.  Paris  edit.  6  Pausan.  b.  10.  c.  20.  &c. 

'  Livy,  b.  36.  c.  16.  Appian.  de  bellis  Syr.  p.  97- 


THE  PASS  OF  THERMOPYLAE.  71 

The  Huns,  in  the  time  of  Justinian,  and  the  Turks  under  Bajazet, 
entered  Greece  by  this  pass. 

We  know  from  Strabo1  that  all  this  coast  has  been  greatly 
changed  by  the  violent  efforts  of  nature ;  and  it  is  probable  that 
since  the  time  of  the  geographer,  the  features  of  the  country  have 
been  undergoing  a  gradual  but  unremitting  alteration.  The  marshes 
have  gained  considerably  on  the  sea  ;  while  the  rivers,  which  dis- 
charge themselves  into  the  Maliac  Gulf,  continually  rolling  great 
quantities  of  earth,  have  formed  long  low  projections  of  mud  to  a 
considerable  distance  from  their  mouths.  The  intermediate  pools 
are  every  day  more  choked  by  sand  and  mud  ;  which,  in  process 
of  time,  will  probably  be  converted  into  marshy  ground,  and  after- 
wards into  cultivated  land.  Even  the  Cenaeum  promontory  may, 
in  the  course  of  ages,  become  united  with  the  Thessalian  shore. 

On  observing  the  face  of  the  country  at  the  entrance  ofThessaly, 
it  may  be  easily  imagined,  that  in  the  earliest  ages  the  Trachinian 
plain  and  the  low  part  of  Melis  were  covered  by  the  sea,  whose 
natural  boundaries  were  the  mountains.  Pausanias8  attributes  the 
muddiness  of  the  gulf  to  the  hot  springs  of  Thermopylae  :  but  a 
more  rational  cause  for  this  appearance  may  be  assigned  to  the 
agency  of  the  rivers,  whose  currents  in  the  wintry  season  impel  the 
sand  of  the  Knemidian  and  Oetaean  ranges,  and  the  mud  and  slime 
of  the  Maliean  plain.  The  gulf  was  known  by  the  different  ap- 
pellations of  M^X<sy?  or  MuXctiog,  Aa.fAia.x.0;,  and  Atveiuvm  xoXtto?. 

It  would  appear,  from  Scylax3  and  Diodorus,*  that  the  MuXist? 
and  MyiXtsi?  were  two  different  people;  but.  very  probably  the  word 
Accpitig  ought  to  be  substituted  for  that  of  MuXistg,  and  the  error  may 
have  arisen  from  a  mistake  of  the  copyists. 

According  to  Thucydides,5  the  Melieis  or  Melienses  were  divided 
into  three  parts;  the  Paralioi,  the  Jeres  or  Hierenses,  and  the 
Trachinioi.     The  whole  of  Melis,  with  the  exception  of  the  tract 

1   B.  J.  p.  60.  '  B.  1.  c.  4.  3  Peripl. 

•   B.  18.  c.  II.  s  B.  3.  c.  92.    See  Stephan.  de  Urbib.  p.  532. 


72  RUINS  OF  A  CASTLE  ABOVE  THE  PASS. 

towards  the  sea,  was  enclosed  by  loity  and  almost  inaccessible 
mountains,  called  by  the  general  name  of  the  Trachinian  Rocks.1 
Apollodorus"  mentions  a  Mount  Malea  in  this  territory.  Oeta 
rises  abruptly  from  the  hot  springs  in  broken  precipices.  We 
rode  up  a  steep  part  of  the  mountain,  in  order  to  examine  the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  town  or  castle.3  As  the  way  was  extremely  bad 
and  difficult,  we  were  an  hour  in  reaching  the  place,  though  the 
distance  is  not  apparently  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  by  the  cir- 
cuitous road  ;  and,  in  a  straight  line,  only  a  few  hundred  yards 
from  the  springs.  It  is  difficult  to  determine  the  name  of  this  place. 
There  seem  to  have  been  three  principal  forts  on  this  part  of  the 
mountains,  namely,  Herakleia,  Tichious,  and  Rhodountia;  and  it 
appears  that  the  summit,  named  Kallidromos,  was  also  fortified 
during  the  war  between  the  Romans  and  Antiochus  the  Great.4 

The  ruins  in  question  consist  of  the  lower  parts  of  a  wall,  which 
encompassed  a  long,  narrow  hill,  that  is  difficult  of  access.  These 
walls  are  of  the  fourth  style  of  military  architecture,  composed  of 
large  blocks.  Their  general  thickness  is  seven  feet.  In  some  parts 
they  are  constructed  with  small  stones  and  mortar,  where  their  thick- 
ness is  more  considerable.  The  walls  are  carried  up  to  the  very  edge 
of  the  precipices,  which  rise  above  the  pass,  to  the  north  of  the  hot 
springs.  Contiguous  to  the  ridge  on  which  the  walls  stand,  and  on 
the  north  side,  is  a  small  plain,  where  there  are  a  few  imperfect 
traces,  and  a  spring  of  excellent  water. 

We  enjoyed  a  view  from  this  spot,  where  the  beauty  of  the  scenery 
was  illuminated  by  many  reflections  from  the  lustre  of  the  classic- 
page.  Below  us,  towards  the  south,  were  the  thermal  springs  and 
the  ever-memorable  pass;  in  the  middle  of  the  gulf  was  the  north- 
west extremity  of  Euboea.5     The  rich  and  even  plain  of  Melis  was 

'  Tf^ivEai  vjsrpau.  Herodot.  b.  1.  c.  198.  *  B.  2. 

3  At  present  called  Muntzmeno.  4  Livy,  b.  36.  c.  16. 

s  The  Cenoeum  promontory,  which,  according  to  Strabo,  was  70  stadia  from  Thermo- 
pylae, b.  9.  p.  429.  The  pointed  mountain  which  rises  from  the  promontory  is  at  present 
called  Lithada.  It  was  sacred  to  Jupiter,  and  it  was  anciently  decorated  with  a  temple  of 
that  divinity.     Sophoc.  Trachin.  v.  241.    Seneca  Here.  Oetaeu9,  act.  3. 


RUINS  OF  A  CASTLE  ABOVE  THE  PASS.  73 

dotted  with  villages,  adorned  with  trees,  and  improved  by  cultiva- 
tion. It  is  intersected  by  the  Asopos,  and  the  Spercheios,  that 
pursue  their  devious  course,  through  the  Trachinian  rocks,  which 
environ  the  plain.  The  town  of  Zetoun,  the  ancient  Lamia,  is  con- 
spicuously situated  on  an  eminence  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
plain.  I  know  not  what  place  these  ruins  represent,  unless  it  be 
the  fortress  of  Tichious. 

Herakleia,  according  to  Herodotus,  was  situated  to  the  north  of 
the  Asopos ;  which  river  issues  from  a  narrow  glen,  in  a  mountain 
now  called  Katabathron,  about  four  miles  north  of  Thermopylae. 
On  its  northern  bank,  just  above  the  glen  from  which  it  emerges,  is 
a  pointed  hill,  forming  part  of  the  great  Trachinian  rocks.  On  this 
hill  are  the  ruins  of  an  acropolis ;  and,  lower  down,  the  traces  of 
the  city. 

Thucydides1  says,  that  Herakleia  was  surrounded  with  a  wall  by 
the  three  Lacedaemonians,  Leon,  Alcidas,  and  Damagon;  and  that 
it  was  40  stadia  from  Thermopylae,  and  20  from  the  sea.  Dio- 
dorus2  asserts,  that  the  Lacedaemonians  sent  a  colony  to  Trachis, 
and  built  a  town  upon  its  ruins,  changing  its  name  to  Herakleia. 
It  contained  10,000  inhabitants,  and  was  colonised  in  the  6th  year  of 
the  Peloponnesian  war.  Jason  of  Pherai,  finding  this  place  too  strong 
to  be  taken  by  open  force,  had  recourse  to  treachery.  He  afterwards 
caused  it  to  be  demolished,  and  gave  the  land  to  the  Oetceans.  It 
was  evidently  restored  after  its  destruction  by  Jason,  as  it  is  men- 
tioned long  afterwards  by  Livy,3  and  other  authors,  as  a  place  of 
strength  and  importance.  Strabo4  asserts,  that  the  ancient  Trachis 
was  six  stadia  from  Herakleia. 

Oetas  is  one  of  the  most  lofty  and  extensive  mountains  in  Greece, 
though  it  appears  not  so  high  as  the  neighbouring  Parnassos,  and 


'  B.  3.  c.  92.  "  B.  12.  c.  59. 

5  Sita  est  Heraclea  in  radicibus  Oetas  montis ;  ipsa  in  campo,  areem  immmentem  loco 
alto  et  undique  praecipiti  habet.  B.  36.  c.  22. 

4  B.  9.  p.  428.  5  Oi7ij. 

VOL.   II.  L 


74  MOUNT  OETA. 

still  less  so  than  Pindos,'  Olympos,  Taygeton,  and  Cyllene ;  but  it 
ranks  next  to  these.  It  forms  a  long  ridge,  branching  out  towards 
the  north-west,  till  it  joins  Pindos;  which  unites  with  the  Acro- 
ceraunian  mountains,  that  terminate  in  the  Adriatic.2  On  the  other 
side,  towards  the  south-east,  it  unites  with  the  range  of  Knemis ; 
which  is  subdivided  into  smaller  hills,  intersected  by  glens  and 
valleys.  Livy  3  compares  Oeta  to  the  Apennines  of  Italy  ;  as  the 
former  causes  a  geographical  division  in  Greece,  similar  to  what  the 
latter  occasion  in  Itaty.  It  appears  from  Livy*  and  Strabo,5  that 
the  highest  part  of  Oeta  was  above  Thermopylae,  and  was  named 
Kallidromos.  According  to  Appian,6  the  two  summits  of  Kalli- 
dromos  and  Tichious  were  above  the  pass. 

Mount  Oeta  is  broken  into  massy  precipices,  crowned  with  mag- 
nificent forests  of  oaks,  firs,  and  platani,  and  with  every  other  tree 
and  shrub  which  grow  in  these  latitudes.  It  is  watered  by  innu- 
merable springs;  and  every  thing  flourishes  in  the  utmost  luxuri- 
ance. The  heat  of  the  summer  is  mitigated  by  the  abundant  shade 
and  the  exuberant  verdure  which  are  objects  of  so  much  regret  in 
other  parts  of  Greece. 

There  were  formerly  two  roads  which  led  from  Melis  into  Doris 
over  Mount  Oeta.  The  plain  forms  a  considerable  recess,  to  the 
north-west  of  the  thermal  springs.  Here  the  Asopos  issues  from  a 
winding  glen,  up  which  was  one  of  the  roads  called  Anopaia,7  that 
passed  under  the  walls  of  Herakleia;8  but  this  way  was  narrow  and 
difficult.9  The  easier  route  passed  through  the  territory  of  the 
iEnianes  ;  and  this  was  taken  by  the  Persians,  and  afterwards  by  the 
Gauls,  under  Brennus.  This  road  was  probably  between  the  Asopos 
and  the  Spercheios.  Another  road  leads  over  Oeta,  going  close  to 
the  ruins  which  are  above  the  pass  ;  it  is  very  narrow  and  difficult : 


1  The  modern  name  of  Pindos  is  Melfyfiov  la.  fiouva.  »  Strabo,  b.  Q.  p.  428. 

j  Id  juguui  sicut  Apunnini  dorso  Italia  dividitur,  ita  mediani  Gneciani  dirimit.  13.  36.  c.  15. 
♦  Ibid.  *  B.  9.  p.  4CS.  «  De  bellis  Syr.  p.  97. 

7  Herodot.  b.  7.  c.  216.  '  Pausan.  b.  10.  c.  22.  9  Ibid. 


MOUNT  OETA.  75 

I  shall  give  a  description  of  it  on  my  return  from  Thessaly,  when 
we  passed  over  it  into  Doris.  The  great  plain  of  Melis,  with  its 
mountainous  boundary,  which  once  formed  a  conspicuous  part  of 
the  kingdom  of  Achilles,1  appears  to  have  been  afterwards  parcelled 
out  into  the  different  territories  of  the  Malienses,  iEnianes,  Oetaeans, 
Trachinii,  or  Herakleotai,  and  the  Lamienses.  The  names  of  these 
districts  underwent  such  changes  as  have  been  productive  of  confu- 
sion in  the  demarcation  of  their  reciprocal  situations  and  divisions. 
The  iEnianes,  or  Ew^jc,  as  they  are  denominated  by  Homer,2  were 
situated  on  that  division  of  Oeta  from  which  theSpercheios  flows,3  and 
about  Mount  Tymphrestos,  Avhich,  according  to  Strabo,4  gave  birth 
to  that  river.  Tymphrestos  joined  Mount  Othrys.  Both  Strabo5  and 
Heliodorus6  assert,  that  the  iEnianes  inhabited  Oeta,  and  it  would 
appear  that  they  had  a  capital  named  Ainea :  I  had  the  good 
fortune  to  find  a  small  copper  coin  of  that  town  at  Thermopylae  ; 
on  one  side  of  which  is  the  head  of  Jupiter,  to  whom  Mount  Oeta 
was  sacred,7  and  on  the  reverse  the  head  of  a  lance,  and  jaw-bone  of 
a  boar,  and  AINIA  EniKPATINON. 


I  have  seen  a  silver  coin8  of  this  people,  on  which  is  the  head  of 
Jupiter,  and  on  the  reverse  a  naked  figure  hurling  a  dart,  and 
AINIANHN.  As  the  country  inhabited  by  the  iEnianes  bordered 
on  iEtolia,9  the  Calydonian  emblems  are  represented  on  their  coins. 
Other  neighbouring  towns  have  the  same  type :  as  Oeta  and  Am- 
phissa. 

The  Oetaeans  probably  inhabited  that  part  of  the  mountain  be- 
tween the  Trachinii  and  the  Hypoknemidii.     Their  capital  seems 


1  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  433.  435.  '  Iliad,  2.  v.  47.  3  Herodot.  b.  7.  c.  12. 

4  B.  9.  p.  433.  5  B.  10.  6  B.  2.  '  Sophoc.  Trach.  v.  203.  443.  1207. 

In  the  collection  of  Colonel  Leake.  9  Strabo,  b.  1.  p.  61. 

L  2 


76  COINS  OF  OETA,  LAMIA,  AND  MALIA. 

to  have  had  the  same  name  as  the  mountain,1  and  was  founded, 
according  to  Antoninus  Liberalis,2  by  Amphissor  son  of  Apollo  and 
the  nymph  Dryope. 

I  found  a  small  copper  coin3  of  this  town  also ;  one  side  is  filled 
with  a  lion's  head ;  on  the  reverse  is  a  long  spear  and  the  jaw-bone 
of  a  boar,  and  OITAftN.  I  have  also  seen  silver  drachmas  of  the 
same  place  with  the  following  types, — lion's  head;*  reverse,  bow 
and  quiver,  OITA: — lion's  head  ;5  reverse,  a  naked  figure  holding  a 
sword,  OITAON.  The  Trachinii,  or  Heracleotai,  occupied  a  part 
of  the  Meliensian  territory,  and  the  intermediate  tract  between  the 
Oetaeans  and  the  iEnienses.  The  territory  of  the  latter  was  pro- 
bably contiguous  to  that  of  the  Lamienses,  whose  capital  was 
Lamia,  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  plain.  The  Ma- 
lienses  or  Melienses"  probably  occupied  the  plain  as  far  as  the  loot 
of  Mount  Othrys.7  I  found  some  coins  of  the  Lamienses  and  Ma- 
lienses,  but  they  are  not  common.  The  types  seen  on  those  of 
Lamia  are  the  caduceus,  diota,  bunch  of  grapes,  the  head  of 
Minerva  and  of  Bacchus,  and  Hercules  with  his  bow  and  arrow 
killing  the  Styinphalides,  with  the  inscription  AAMIEHN:  on  the 
latter  is  the  head  of  Minerva;  reverse,  a  diota  and  MAAIEHN. 
One  similar  to  this  is  published  by  Eckhel.8 


1  Towns  which  had  the  same  name  as  the  mountains  on  which  they  were  situated,  were 
termed  u>povojj.oi,  homonomous,  Ezechiel.  Spanhem.  observat.  in  Callimach.  Hymnuni  in 
Dianatn,  v.  99. 

"  Metam.  c.  32.  3  See  Eckhel  Numi  veteres  Anecdoli. — Pars.  1.  tab.  6.  p.  S9. 

♦  In  the  collection  of  Mr.  Burgou.  5  In  the  collection  of  Colonel  Leake. 

6  Thucyd.  b.  3.  c.  92.  "  Antoninus  Liberalis  Metam.  c.  22. 

8  The  following  coins  of  Oeta  of  second  brass,  are  published  by  Mionnet, — head  of 
Apollo;  reverse,  OITAIilN,  a  lance,  bunch  of  grapes,  and  jaw-bone  of  a  boar: — an  arrow, 
quiver,  and  jaw-bone;  reverse,  two  shields  and  two  lances: — head  of  a  lion,  and  head  of  a 
lance  ;  reverse,  OJTAII2N,  Hercules  erect  with  his  club.  Dr.  Clarke  found  a  silver  coin  of 
this  town  at  Delphi, — lion's  head  with  an  arrow  in  his  mouth  ;  reverse,  figure  of  Hercules 
with  radiated  head,  holding  his  club.  The  inscription  is  from  right  to  left  NftlATIO.  It 
is  in  the  collection  of  R.  P.  Knight,  Esq.  and  there  are  others  of  the  same  type  in  the 
British  Museum. — See  Dr.  Clarke's  Travels  in  Greece,  vol.  4.  c.  6.  p.  197. 


CHAPTER  III. 

To  Zetoun,  remains  of  Lamia — Ruins  of  a  city — Village  Stilidi — Ruins  of  Echinos — Villages  of 
Rakes  and  Karditza — Ruins  of  a  city — Villages  of  Makala  and  Pteleo — Ruins  of  a  city — 
Village  of  Surbis — Ruins  of  a  city — Town  of  Armiro — Village  of  Staikes — Ruins  of  a  city 
— Remains  of  Pagasai  and  Demetrias — Castle  and  town  of  Bolo — Mount  Pelion,  and  the 
Gulf  of  Pagasai — Ruins  of  lolkos — Town  of  Belestina  and  ruins  of  Pherai — Hyperian 
fountain — Villages  of  Tolelere  and  Mouimos — Larissa — Singular  conduct  of  the  archbishop 
— Insolence  of  the  Turks — River  Peneios — Camels — Mount  Olympos — Villages  of  Baba 
and  Ampelachia — Vale  of  Tempe — Proconsular  inscription. 

TO  ZETOUN,  LAMIA. 

ON  the  26th,  we  quitted  the  khan,  and  proceeded  on  our  journey 
through  Thessaly ;  we  crossed  two  artificial  canals,  the  currents  of 
which  are  supplied  by  the  Spercheios,  and  irrigate  the  extensive  rice 
grounds,  which  tend  to  vitiate  the  air  in  the  vicinity.  The  road  is 
paved,  which  is  a  necessary  precaution,  as  great  part  of  the  plain  is 
a  complete  marsh.  In  two  hours  we  arrived  at  Zetoun,1  the  ancient 
Lamia,  which  was  in  the  territory  of  Melis,  and,  according  to 
Strabo,2  was  only  thirty  stadia  from  the  Spercheios,  though  the 
distance  appears  more  considerable.  This  town  contains  at  present 
about  3000  inhabitants,  the  greater  part  of  whom  are  Greeks.  It 
is  the  head  of  a  province,  and  the  Voivode  commands  sixty  villages.5 
The  Greeks  have  a  bishop,  suffragan  of  the  metropolitan  of  Larissa. 
The  ports  are  Stilidi  and  Agia  Marina,  on  the  Maliac  Gulf.  The  chief 

'  It  is  written  Zyhvy  by  Leonicus  Chalcocondyla  and  I.  Curopalata;  it  is  a  Turkish  word 
signifying  olives.     It  is  however  sometimes  called  Izdin  by  the  Turks. 

"  B.  9.  p.  433. 

s  See  the  Appendix. — The  distances  from  Zetoun  to  the  following  places  are, — to  Athens 
forty  hours,  to  Joannina  forty-eight,  to  Libadea  twelve,  to  Larissa  sixteen. 


78  TOWN  OF  ZETOUN.— RUINS  OF  LAMIA. 

products  of  the  territory  of  Zetoun  are  grain,  tobacco,  rice,  anil 
cotton;  80,000  ocques  of  the  latter  are  produced  every  year.  The 
air  is  rendered  unwholesome  by  the  vicinity  of  the  marshes  and 
the  rice  grounds.  The  inhabitants  have  a  yellow  and  sickly  ap- 
pearance. Zetoun,  which  is  situated  on  a  hill,1  commands  a  noble 
view  over  the  memorable  places  which  surround  it.  The  pass  of 
Thermopylae  is  distinguished  at  the  foot  of  the  rugged  Oeta,  which, 
branching  out  towards  Tymphrestos  and  Othrys,  shoots  up  from 
the  flat  and  even  surface  of  the  Melian  plain.  Towards  the  south- 
east is  the  Maliac  Gulf,  and  the  lofty  and  picturesque  extremity  of 
Eubcea.2 

Above  the  town  of  Zetoun  stands  the  fortress,  the  acropolis  of 
the  ancient  Lamia.  The  lower  part  of  the  walls  is  ancient  and 
regularly  constructed.  It  was  once  a  place  of  strength,  and  in 
the  Lamian  war  was  held  by  Antipater,  who  defeated  the  supe- 
rior force  of  the  Athenians  commanded  by  Leosthenes,  who  was 
killed  before  the  place.3  According  to  Stephanus,*  Lamia  took  its 
name  from  Lamos,  a  son  of  Hercules  and  Omphale,  or  from  Lamia, 
a  queen  of  the  Trachinii. 


TO  ECHINOS. 


On  the  27th  we  proceeded,  and  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  crossed  a 
stream  called  Stiria,  which,  in  a  shallow  but  spacious  channel,  winds 


1   Livy,  b.  36.  c.  25. 
*  Mount  Lithada,  which  rises  from  the  promontory  of  Censeon. 
'  About  320  veais  B.  C.  4  V.  Lamia,  p.  506. 


RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY.  79 

through  the  plain  to  the  Maliac  Gulf.  Strabo1  mentions  a  river 
called  Acheloos,  near  Lamia.  The  neighbouring  inhabitants  were 
denominated  Paracheloitai.  In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  from  this  place 
we  came  to  a  rock  called  Niphi,  the  base  of  which  is  cut  into  steps. 
We  passed  near  a  village  named  Megalo  Brusi,  or  the  great  spring : 
the  water  bubbles  out  of  a  rock,  and  finds  its  way  to  the  sea.  In 
thirty-five  minutes  more,  we  crossed  a  small  stream,  called  Mauro 
Mandila;  which,  issuing  from  a  rock,  to  the  left  of  the  road,  enters 
the  plain.  To  our  left  was  the  village  Akladi,  and  to  the  right  those 
of  Kaprena  and  Palaio  Pyrgo.  We  crossed  two  other  streams, 
when  we  came  to  some  considerable  traces  and  foundations,  and 
arrived  at  the  village  of  Stilidi,  the  ruins  still  continuing.  This  place 
is  three  hours  from  Zetoun,  and  is  probably  the  ancient  Phalara. 
It  stands  upon  a  rising  ground,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  the  sea,  and 
a  good  port.  Livy2  says,  that  it  was  thickly  inhabited,  on  account 
of  its  excellent  port.  According  to  Strabo,3  Phalara  was  twenty 
stadia  by  sea  from  the  mouth  of  the  Spercheios.  Palmerius4  says, 
it  was  the  port  of  Lamia,  from  which  it  was  distant  fifty  stadia. 

Continuing  our  journey,  we  traversed  some  rich  corn  fields,  and 
in  the  course  of  forty-five  minutes  crossed  six  streams. 

This  copious  supply  of  water  contributes  to  enrich  the  soil,  and 
to  decorate  the  surface  with  that  smiling  verdure  that  is  seldom  seen 
in  Greece.  We  ascended  a  hill  to  take  a  view  of  the  Maliac  Gulf; 
on  the  opposite  side  of  which,  was  seen  the  coast  of  the  Hypokne- 
midian  Locrians,  the  pass  of  Thermopylae,  and  Mount  Oeta,  over- 
topped by  the  distant  Parnassos.5  More  to  the  west  was  the  Melian 
plain,  and  the  castle  of  Zetoun.6  Below  was  a  rich  valley,  adorned 
with  many  different  kinds  of  trees,  amongst  which  were  some  ex- 
tremely large  olives.     On  the  foreground  were  a  few  ancient  traces. 

We  left  this  attractive  spot  with  regret,  and  crossed  two  streams  ; 
one  of  which  merits  the  name  of  a  river.     We  passed  by  a  fountain, 


1  B.  9-  p.  434.  '  B.  27.  c.  SO.  '  B.  9.  p.  43.5.  4  Exercit.  p.  322. 

'  Bearing  S.  75  W.  "Bearing  N.  70  W. 


80  RUINS  OF  ECHINOS. 

shaded  by  se\eral  trees  of  the  ftcus  sycamorus,  of  enormous  size. 
Our  way  led  us  through  some  corn  fields;  and,  after  crossing  a 
stream,  we  arrived  in  the  afternoon  at  Echinos,  and  dined  in  a  keoschk, 
the  sides  of  which  were  composed  of  open  latticework,  through 
which  the  eye  wandered  over  the  Maliac  Gulf,  and  the  mind  contem- 
plated the  interesting  countries  we  had  lately  traversed.  The  keoschk 
was  built  over  a  clear  and  rapid  stream,  which  rushed  beneath  it, 
and  was  shaded  by  the  stately  platan  us,  and  the  tapering  poplar.  I 
have  seldom  beheld  a  scene,  the  seclusion  of  which  combined  so 
many  charms  with  so  much  classical  interest. 

The  village  of  Echinos,  which  still  retains  its  original  name,  stands 
upon  the  ruins  of  the.  ancient  town,  on  the  side  of  a  hill  that  is 
crowned  by  the  Acropolis :  it  appears,  as  well  from  its  situation  as 
from  its  works,  to  have  been  a  place  of  great  strength.1  In  some 
parts  it  has  been  fortified  by  triple  walls,  which  are  in  the  third  style 
of  construction. 

Opposite  the  Acropolis,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred  paces, 
is  a  hill,  where  there  are  some  ruins,  and  foundations  of  large  blocks, 
probably  a  temple,  with  a  Greek  church,  which  is  composed  of 
ancient  fragments,  and  surrounded  by  the  largest  olive-trees  I  ever 
beheld.  Here  the  traveller  is  gratified  by  a  beautiful  view  of  Echinos, 
and  of  the  classical  distances  towards  Thermopylae.  Echinos  was 
in  Phthiotis,  and  the  surrounding  country  was  always  celebrated  for 
its  fertility. 2 


TO  ARMIRO. 


We  quitted  Echinos  on  the  28th;  and,  descending  to  the  plain, 
in  the  course  of  ten  minutes  crossed  three  streams,  and  soon  after 
entered  an  olive-grove. 

1  Polyb.  b.  9.  p.  572.  '  Ibid. 


RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY.  81 

We  ascended  an  eminence;  and  in  an  hour  and  ten  minutes  from 
Echinos  arrived  at  a  village  called  Rakes,  where  we  stopped  to  take 
a  drawing  of  the  Euboean  mountains,  the  Maliac  Gulf,  and  the  distant 
elevations  of  Locris  Hypoknemis.  We  then  descended  to  the  plain, 
passed  several  fountains,  crossed  some  small  streams,  and  arrived  at 
the  village  of  Graditza,  which  is  three  hours  and  ten  minutes  from 
Echinos.  This  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  spots  I  ever 
saw ;  the  country,  which  is  fertilized  by  numerous  rivulets,  is  mantled 
with  a  rich  verdure,  and  adorned  with  large  mulberry  trees,  pome- 
granates, figs,  and  other  fruit  trees.  The  vine,  luxuriating  in  all  the 
powers  of  vegetative  life,  is  beheld  depending  in  ample  clusters 
from  the  majestic  platanus.  The  principal  produce  of  the  place  is 
silk,  which  is  of  an  excellent  quality. 

On  quitting  this  place  we  lost  sight  of  Parnassos,  which  we  had 
seen  all  the  way  from  Zetoun.  In  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  we 
arrived  at  the  remains  of  an  ancient  city,  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  hill, 
covered  with  bushes.  The  walls  are  built  up  the  side  of  the  hill,  to 
the  summit  of  which  we  arrived  in  twenty  minutes  :  the  construction 
is  of  the  third  style,  and  finely  built  Avith  large  masses.  There  may 
be  some  of  the  other  styles  of  construction  in  the  walls,  but  it  took 
us  so  long  to  make  a  drawing  from  the  spot,  that  we  had  not  time 
to  examine  the  entire  circuit  of  the  ruins.  The  summit  of  the  hill 
seems  to  have  been  occupied  bj^  a  Doric  temple,  as  we  found  a  tri- 
glyph,  with  some  fragments  of  white  marble. 

There  is  reason  to  suppose  that  these  are  the  remains  of  Larissa 
Kremaste, '  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Achilles ;  and  I  conceive 
there  is  an  error  in  the  text  of  Strabo2  respecting  its  distance  from 
Echinos,  which  he  makes  only  twenty  stadia.  I  should  propose  to 
substitute  one  hundred  and  twenty :  which,  calculating  something 
less  than  thirt}'  stadia  an  hour,  corresponds  with  four  hours  and  a 
half,  which  it  took  us  to  perform  the  journey,  exclusive  of  our 
stopping,  and  also  of  the  twenty  minutes  we  employed  in  reaching 
the  summit  of  the  hill.     Its  situation  is  remarkably  strong;  and  its 


1  See  Strab.  b.  9.  p.  440.  '  B.  9.  p.  435. 

VOL.  II.  M 


82       EXTRAORDINARY  BEAUTY  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

lofty  and  impending  aspect  merits  the  name  of  Kremaste,  by  which 
it  was  distinguished  from  the  numerous  diversity  of  Larissas  in 
Greece,  and  in  other  countries :  it  was  also  called  Pelasgia.1  We 
made  a  drawing  from  this  spot  of  a  most  comprehensive  and  beau- 
tiful nature. 

In  the  afternoon  we  resumed  our  journey ;  descending  with  dif- 
ficulty to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  we  crossed  three  small  streams,  at  a 
short  distance  from  each  other,  and  came  to  a  fountain,  the  water 
of  which  had  ceased  to  flow.  But  the  spot  was  green  and  fertile, 
and  adorned  with  platani,  mulberries,  fig-trees,  and  poplars  of  a 
large  size.  In  an  hour  and  a  half  from  the  last  named  ruins,  we 
reached  the  village  of  Makala  or  Machallah,1  situated  in  a  country 
where  the  soil  is  as  fertile  as  the  scenery  is  beautiful. 

Having  passed  the  night  under  the  hospitable  roof  of  an  Albanian 
cottage,  we  continued  our  journey  on  the  29th,  and  a  short  way  out 
of  the  village  observed  some  ancient  traces  near  a  fountain.  We 
crossed  two  streams,  adorned  with  large  trees  and  rocky  scenery ; 
after  which  we  entered  some  deep  glens,  which  sometimes  expanded 
into  valleys  teeming  with  every  beauty  of  nature,  and  enriched  with 
fine  trees ;  principally  platani,  oaks,  and  elms.  If  we  had  travelled 
with  no  other  object  than  that  of  forming  a  collection  of  picturesque 
drawings,  we  should  not  have  been  able  to  proceed  five  miles  a  day 
through  a  country  which,  at  almost  every  step  of  the  way,  or  turn  of 
the  road,  presented  some  characteristic  diversity  of  view,  which  in 
multiplicity  of  picturesque  charms,  and  in  copiousness  of  enchanting 
landscape,  far  surpassed  any  thing  in  Italy,  or  perhaps  in  any  other 
country  in  the  world.  The  beauty  of  the  lines  was  equalled  by  the 
clear  and  vivid  freshness  of  the  tints ;  no  Italian  mists  dimmed  the 
interesting  distances,  which  are  sharp,  distinct,  and  definite,  yet 
without  any  of  that  intractable  harshness  which  painters  dread. 

As  we  proceeded,  our  road  led  us  into  a  forest  of  ancient  platani, 

•  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  440. 

•  Or  Mach-Allah,  which,  in  the  Turkish  language,  is  a  term  of  admiration,  signifying  that 
which  is  made  by  God.  When  a  Turk  is  pleased  with  the  beauty  of  any  object,  he  exclaims 
Masch-Allah  ! 


RUINS  OF  A  MODERN  CASTLE.  83 

the  openings  of  which  at  intervals  exhibited  luminous  flashes  of 
the  Maliac  Gulf.  Nothing  could  be  more  refreshing  to  the  sight 
than  this  delightful  and  exuberant  country,  after  our  eyes  had  been 
so  long  weaned  by  the  glare  of  the  barren  hills  and  streamless  rivers 
of  Phocis,  Boeotia,  and  Attica.  Having  crossed  a  brook,  we  ascended 
an  eminence  to  take  a  view  of  the  gulf,  which  is  so  far  indented  into 
the  Thessalian  shore,  as  to  represent  the  soft  and  tranquil  bosom  of 
a  lake.  The  mountains,  which  rise  from  it,  are  of  a  fine  form ;  and 
several  long  capes  and  promontories,  projecting  into  the  sea,  add 
much  to  the  picturesque  effect  of  the  view. 

Towards  the  mouth  of  the  gulf  is  a  lofty  pointed  promontory,  on 
which  are  distinguished  the  ruins  of  a  modern  castle ;  beyond  the 
promontory  is  part  of  the  Pagasaean  Gulf,  bounded  by  Mount  Thi- 
saion,1  on  the  side  of  which  the  town  of  Tricheri  is  conspicuously 
situated.  In  the  distance,  beyond  the  entrance  of  the  gulf,  are  seen 
some  islands  of  the  Archipelago,  probably  Skiathos,  and  Skopelos ; 
but  the  open  sea  is  not  visible. 

In  an  hour  and  ten  minutes  after  we  quitted  this  place,  we  entered 
an  extensive  grove  of  mulberries,  and  crossed  a  stream  flowing  under 
an  embowering  shade  of  ample  platani.  We  then  went  through  a 
village  named  Petilio,  or  Pteleo,  but  observed  no  ruins,  though  the 
name  might  lead  to  a  supposition  that  it  was  the  Pteleon  of  the 
ancients,  which  was  in  this  part  of  Thessaly. 

We  were  here  induced  to  deviate  from  the  road,  in  order  to  exa- 
mine a  ruined  castle,  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  promontory,  rising 
from  the  sea.  After  having  ascended  the  hill,  which  from  its  steep- 
ness caused  us  some  trouble,  we  found  ourselves  but  ill  compensated, 
as  the  remains  were  of  a  modern  date.  The  entrance  of  the  Paga- 
saean Gulf  is  advantageously  seen  from  this  place.  The  Thessalian 
mountains,  on  which  is  the  town  of  Tricheri,  project  far  into  the  sea, 
and  in  the  distance  are  observed  the  islands  which  1  take  to  be 
Skiathos,  and  Skopelos. 

We  returned  to  Pteleo,  by  a  better,  but  more  circuitous  road, 


1  At  present  called  Bardzoia. 
M  2 


84  KINGDOM  OF  PROTESILAOS. 

and  passed  through  some  rich  fields  of  corn,  flax,  beans,  and  lupines: 
admired  some  grand  evergreen  oaks,  crossed  a  stream,  and  came  to 
a  picturesque  fountain,  over  which  some  majestic  platani  threw  a 
broad  circumference  of  shade. 

We  were  now  in  that  country  which  formed  part  of  the  ancient 
kingdom  of  Protesilaos,  which  was  situated  between  those  of  Achilles 
and  Eurypylos.1  Having  passed  through  Pteleo,  we  ascended  a 
hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  the  division  of  the  districts  of  Ze- 
toun  and  Armiro.  From  hence  we  overlooked  a  fine  fertile  plain, 
well  cultivated,  and  encompassed  by  hills  of  a  round  and  uniform 
outline.  This  may  be  the  Crocian  plain ;  which,  according  to  Strabo,2 
was  near  Thebes,  and  was  watered  by  the  river  Amphryssos.  We 
descended  to  the  plain,  and  passed  a  village  called  Surbis,  in  the 
midst  of  a  mulberry  forest,  which  forms  the  principal  source  of  the 
riches  of  the  country,  from  the  food  that  it  supplies  to  the  numerous 
silk-worms  which  are  reared  in  this  place.  The  silk  of  Thessaly  is 
superior  to  that  of  other  parts  of  Greece. 

We  passed  by  a  well,  shaded  by  venerable  Balania  oaks,  and 
crossed  a  sluggish  and  marshy  stream,  perhaps  the  Amphryssos,3  on 
whose  banks  Apollo  tended  the  flocks  of  Admetos.4  Great  part  of 
the  plain  is  excellent  pasture  land. 

A  hill  which  rises  on  the  left  is  crowned  with  the  monastery  of  the 
Holy  Virgin.  We  passed  through  some  low  vineyards,  crossed  a  bridge 
over  a  marshy  stream,  and  arrived  at  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city, 
situated  in  the  plain,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  the  summit  of  which  is 
characterised  by  the  walls  of  the  acropolis.  Probably  the  remains 
of  Iton,  where  there  was  also  a  temple.  The  walls  are  much  ruined, 
and  a  considerable  part  is,  no  doubt,  concealed  by  the  marshes  : 
they  were  of  the  third  style.  These  ruins  are  three  hours  and  a 
quarter  from  Pteleo. 

We  wished  to  examine  this  place  with  greater  care;  but,  as  the 
evening  was  approaching,  and  there  was  no  habitation  near  it  where 

*  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  435. 
•  Kpoxiw  irsJicv.    Ibid.    Stephanus  calls  it  Kpoxwhv  TfeSiov.  De  Urbib.  p.  20S.  in  v.  Aijinr/lptoti^ 

3  ■ k'tiisque  Ampluysos — Ovid.  Metam.  b.  1.  v.  .580. 

«  Lucan.  Pharsal.  b.  6.  v.  367,  and  others. 


RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY.  85 

we  might  pass  the  night,  we  pursued  our  journey,  passed  by  the 
source  of  a  clear  spring,  and  came  to  two  roads,  the  left  leading  to 
Platanios,  the  other  to  Armiro.  We  crossed  a  spacious,  but  shallow, 
stream,  with  a  great  expanse  of  sand  about  it,  which  shows  that,  at 
times,  it  is  very  broad.  This  may  be  a  continuation  of  the  Am- 
phryssos ;  but,  as  it  had  been  dark  for  some  time,  I  could  not  ascer- 
tain the  course  of  the  stream.  In  ten  minutes  from  this  river,  we 
arrived  at  Armiro,  a  large  town,  the  capital  of  a  province,  situated 
in  a  fertile  vale,  and  varied  with  many  different  kinds  of  trees,  par- 
ticularly cypresses  and  platani,  which  grow  in  the  streets,  diffusing 
around  an  agreeable  and  refreshing  shade.  This  town,  which,  some 
years  ago,  was  nearly  depopulated  by  the  plague,  has  at  present  the 
appearance  of  being  half  deserted.  The  Turks,  who  form  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  the  population,  have  four  mosques.  There  are  a  few 
imperfect  traces  in  the  town,  indicating  an  ancient  city,  which  some 
have  supposed  to  be  Thebae  Phthioticae.  After  its  capture  by  the 
last  Philip  of  Macedon,  its  name  was  changed  to  Philippopolis.1 
Polybius  says,  that  Skopion  and  Heliotropion  were  situated  in  its 
vicinity,  and  that  it  Avas  300  stadia  from  Larissa.2 


TO  BOLO. 


On  the  30th  we  proceeded  ;  and,  entering  an  oak  forest,  observed 
several  upright  stones,  which  we  were  informed  were  the  sepulchres 
of  those  who  died  of  the  plague,  some  years  ago,  at  Armiro.  A 
quarter  of  an  hour  further,  we  remarked  some  ancient  remains.  An 
hour  from  Armiro  we  crossed  a  river,  and  saw  a  village  named 
Idris,  to  the  left.  We  passed  a  village  called  Staikesi,  with  one 
mosque;  and,  in  two  hours  from  Armiro,  arrived  at  the  ruins  of  a 
city,  now  called  Aias,  which,  from  the  similarity  of  the  name,  may 

1  Polyb.  b.  5.  p.  438.    Diodor.  Sic.  b.  26.  c.  7. 
'  Polyb.  b.  5.  p.  437.    Livy  calls  it  Thebse  Phthise  and  Theb*  Phtliioticie. 


86 


RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 


be  Aia,  mentioned  by  Stephanus.'  The  Avails  which  surround  the 
city  are  in  the  third  and  fourth  styles ;  but  those  of  the  acropolis 
are  chiefly  of  the  third  style,  and  some  parts  of  the  most  ancient, 
being  composed  of  unhewn  rocks,  of  a  larger  size.  The  remains  of  a 
gate  are  left  standing  in  the  acropolis,  of  the  usual  form,  diminishing 
a  little  at  top.  The  lintel  has  fallen.  The  general  thickness  of  the 
wall  is  ten  feet.  These  ruins  are  within  a  mile  of  the  Pagaseean 
Gulf,  which  is  beautifully  varied  with  bays  and  promontories. 

Having  taken  some  drawings  of  this  curious  place,  we  continued 
our  journey;  and,  in  eighteen  minutes,  came  to  some  fine  traces  and 
fountains,  situated  in  a  forest  of  small  oaks.  This  was  probably  a 
temple :  some  fragments  of  the  Corinthian  and  Ionic  orders  are 
visible,  and  perhaps  an  excavation  might  discover  not  only  the 
columns,  but  some  interesting  antiquities.  Amongst  some  frag- 
ments of  marble,  is  one  ornamented  with  a  mseander,  with  a  bas 
relief  of  a  dove  supported  by  two  dolphins. 


Not  far  from  this  place,  we  came  to  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  late 
voivodes  of  Armiro,  who  was  killed  on  the  spot,  a  few  years  ago,  by 
thieves :  it  stands  near  the  sea,  and  is  neatly  constructed  of  white 
marble,  probably  taken  from  the  neighbouring  ruins. 

Ascending  from  this  place  through  a  narrow  pass,  shaded  by  oaks, 
we  entered  an  olive  grove,  and  observed  some  ancient  traces.  As  we 
emerged  from  the  grove,  we  were  unexpectedly  delighted  by  one  of 
the  most  captivating  scenes  in  Greece,  not  only  from  the  natural 
beauties  of  the  landscape,  but  from  its  intimate   union  with  the 


1  Dc  Urbib.  p.  4-7. 


BEAUTIFUL  VIEW  OF  MOUNT  PELION.  87 

most  curious  fables,  and  with  the  heroic  history  of  that  celebrated 
country. 

We  saw  before  us  the  venerable  majesty  of  Mount  Pelion,  the 
ancient  habitation  of  the  giants  and  of  centaurs;1  but  now  beauti- 
fully variegated  with  groves  and  gardens,  and  glittering  with  towns 
and  villages. 

The  situation  of  Iolkos,  the  country  of  Jason,  is  descried  upon  a 
ridge  of  the  mountain,  which,  towards  the  south-east,  branches  out 
into  the  Pagasaean  Gulf.  The  locality  of  the  ancient  Pagasai,  where 
the  far-famed  ship  Argo4  was  launched  upon  the  ocean,  was  one  of 
the  proximate  objects  of  attraction  in  the  more  immediate  field  of 
view.  The  ruins  of  Demetrias  appeared  at  our  feet  in  a  rich  level 
plain,  washed  by  the  Pagasoean  Gulf,  from  which  the  Argonautic 
expedition  sailed  for  the  Colchian  prize.  The  uncommon  beauty 
of  the  scenery,  associated  with  so  many  details  of  ancient  fable,  and 
so  many  feats  of  wonder  and  delight,  of  heroism  and  of  love,  operated 
upon  the  imagination  with  a  sort  of  magic  charm.  We  paused,  and 
paused  again,  in  order  to  enjoy  and  to  re-enjoy  the  contemplation  of 
a  view,  which  cannot  be  surpassed  in  interesting  recollections,  or  in 
orandeur  and  variety  of  scenery.  The  vivid  impression  which  this 
scene  made  upon  my  mind  will  never  be  effaced. 

After  taking  a  drawing  of  this  majestic  landscape,  we  descended 
to  the  plain,  where  we  saw  an  inscription  cut  on  a  rock  near  the 
road ;  but  the  letters  were  corroded  and  illegible.  We  soon  after- 
wards reached  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city,  which  is  probably  De- 
metrias. It  is  spread  over  a  considerable  portion  of  the  plain;  but 
the  only  ruins  that  have  in  some  degree  resisted  the  injuries  of 
time,  are  a  stadium  and  a  hippodrome,  which  are  contiguous  to 
each  other,  and  seem  to  have  been  composed  of  banks  of  earth. 
The  other  remains  consist  of  masses,  of  which  the  original  destination 

1  Callimachus  assigns  to  Mount  Pelion  the  poetical  denomination  of  Xeiguivitiss  ax^ai,  on 
account  of  its  having  been  the  habitation  of  the  centaur  Chiron.     Hymn  in  Delum.  v.  104. 

a  See  Apollon.  Ilhod.  Argon.  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  436.  Miounet  has  published  the  following 
coin  of  Magnesia  ;  head  of  Gordianus  Pius.  MA  AN  T0PAIAN0C  ;  rev.  ship  Argo.  APril 
MArNHTttN. 


88  RUINS  OF  DEMETRIAS. 

cannot  be  known.  Amongst  these  we  remarked  some  fine  pieces 
of  white  marble.  The  most  ancient  name  of  this  town  was  Mag- 
nesia.' But,  when  it  was  rebuilt  by  Demetrius  Poliorcetes,  it  took 
the  name  of  Demetrias,  and  was  peopled  by  the  eight  cities  of  Nelia, 
Pagasai,  Ormenion,  Rizous,  Sepias,  Olizon,  Boebe,  and  Iolkos.1 
The  remains  of  its  founder  were  interred  within  the  city.3  It  was 
the  arsenal  of  Pherai,  and  station  of  the  Macedonian  fleet;4  and, 
from  its  local  strength,  and  other  favourable  circumstances,  it  was 
regarded  as  one  of  the  chains  of  Greece.  The  others  were  Chalcis 
and  Corinth. s  The  importance  of  Demetrias  was  considerably 
diminished  in  the  time  of  Strabo,6  though  it  was  still  the  principal 
city  of  Magnesia.  The  geographer7  places  it  between  Pagasia  and 
Nelia.  The  gulf  is  named  by  different  writers  Pagasicus,8  Pagasi- 
ticus,9  Pagasaeus,10  Pelasgicus,"  Iolciacus,11  and  Demetriacus,"  and 
is  at  present  the  gulf  of  Bolos.14 

In  the  plain  of  Demetrias  we  found  several  beautiful  flies,  of  the 
?iemopteryx  species,  the  panorpa  coa  of  Linnaeus  ;  it  is  one  of  the 
most  elegant  and  delicate  of  the  insect  tribe.15 

We  proceeded,  and  saw  a  cave  to  the  left,  to  which  there  was  an 
ascent  by  some  steps  cut  in  the  rock.  At  present  it  contains  nothing 
worthy  of  observation.  The  rock  is  of  white  marble,  from  which  a 
salt  spring,  gushing  in  a  rapid  current,  soon  forms  a  stream  that 
traverses  the  plain,  and  enters  the  Pagasaean  Gulf.  Near  the  source 
are  several  ruins,  and  some  sepulchres  of  the  Spelaion  kind,  cut  in  the 
rock;  but  in  lofty  situations,  and  difficult  of  access.  We  passed  a 
bridge  over  a  stream,  and,  in  the  evening,  arrived  at  the  castle  of 
Bolos,  a  Turkish  fort,  as  usual,  out  of  order,  with  some  dismounted 
guns,  and  dismantled  battlements.    The  castle,  which  stands  in  a 


1  According  to  Pliny,  Demetrias  was  once  called  Pagasas ;  this  is  evidently  erroneous. 
Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  8. 

8  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  436.  '  Plutarch,  life  of  Demetrius.  4  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  436. 

s  Polyb.  b.  17.  p.751.  •  B.  9.  p.  436.  'Ibid. 

'  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  »  Strabo.  ,0  Pomp.  Mela. 

"  Ptolemy.  "  Ovid.  "  Livy.  14  Pronounced  Volo. 

15  See  Zoological  Miscellany,  by  Dr.  W.  E.  Leach,  vol.  2.  p.  74.  with  plates. 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY  ON  PELION.  89 

flat,  is  surrounded  by  a  large  village,  called  the  Gardens  of  Bolo : 
the  country  abounds  in  corn  and  vineyards. 

The  next  morning,  May  31st :  half  an  hour  brought  us  to  Bolo,  a 
large  and  populous  town.  It  reclines  upon  the  southern  declivity 
of  Pelion,  in  the  midst  of  a  delightful  garden,  where  a  varied  pro- 
fusion of  trees  form  cooling  arbours  and  embowering  shades,  and 
where  innumerable  streams,  scattering  their  limpid  treasures,  spread 
verdure  and  fertility  around,  or  murmur  in  cascades  as  they  are 
rolled  over  the  intervening  rocks.  This  delightful  spot  exhibits 
in  all  their  rich  mixtures  of  foliage,  and  diversities  of  form,  the 
luxuriantly  spreading  platanus,  the  majestically  robust  chesnut, 
the  waving  poplar,  and  the  aspiring  cypress,  which  are  happily  in- 
termingled with  the  vine,  the  pomegranate,  the  almond,  and  the 
fig.  Here  the  weary  may  repose,  and  those  avIio  hunger  or  thirst 
may  be  satisfied.  Nor  is  the  ear  left  without  its  portion  of  delight. 
The  warbling  harmonies  of  the  nightingale,  and  of  other  melodious 
birds,  are  heard  even  in  the  most  frequented  streets;  and  plenty, 
security,  and  content,  seem  every  where  diffused. 

The  houses  have  an  air  of  neatness  and  comfort  which  I  have 
not  seen  in  any  other  part  of  Greece :  they  are  generally  high,  and 
are  roofed  with  slates  found  on  the  mountain. 

Pelion  is  adorned  with  about  twenty-four  large  and  wealthy  vil- 
lages, some  of  Avhich  merit  rather  the  appellation  of  cities;  par- 
ticularly Bolo,  Portaria,  Makrinitza,  and  Agios-Giorgios. 

We  rode  up  the  side  of  the  mountain,  the  pristine  haunt  of  giants 
and  of  centaurs,1  and  visited  some  villages  Avhich  are  most  pic- 
turesque, and  formed  a  singular  contrast  with  any  thing  of  the  kind 
that  I  had  ever  seen  before. 

In  an  hour  we  reached  Portaria,  situated  in  a  forest  of  platani 
and  chesnuts,  and  proceeding  higher  up  we  arrived  at  Makrinitza : 


1  Ksttevpuiv  ey  Open  xXmwou 
ILjXiaJa  xa8'  u\av.     Euripid.  Iphig.  in  Aulid.  v.  1047. 
There  was  a  town  in  Thessaly  called  Pelion.     It  was  probably  the  largest  town  upon  the 
mountain  from  which  it  took  its  name,  as  Oeta  and  other  homonomous  cities.  See  Stephan. 
de  Urbih.  p.  639.     Eustath.  in  Horn.  p.  334.  4. 
VOL.  II.  N 


90  RUINS  OF  IOLKOS. 

both  these  towns  are  inhabited  by  Greeks  of  strong  and  athletic 
forms,  who  are  sufficiently  brave  and  numerous  to  despise  their 
neighbours,  the  Turks.  The  streets  are  irrigated  by  incessant  rills 
and  the  clearest  fountains,  and  shaded  by  platani,  fig-trees,  and 
chesnuts  of  the  largest  size,  which  are  thickly  entwined  by  ample 
ramifications  of  vines  of  prodigious  dimensions,  and  clustering  with 
an  exuberance  of  grapes. 

Other  villages,  and  scattered  habitations,  are  seen  higher  up  the 
mountain,  where  the  forests  are  thinner  than  lower  down.  Homer ' 
might  well  characterise  Pelion  by  the  epithet  of  itvoa-itpvXkov. 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  IOLKOS. 

On  the  2d  of  June  we  visited  the  ruins  of  a  city  now  called 
Boritza,  about  three  miles  east  of  Bolo.  We  passed  through  a  vale 
rich  with  vineyards  and  olives,  and  crossed  three  dry  torrent  beds, 
the  largest  of  which  is  near  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  the  ruins 
stand,  and  is  probably  the  Anauros,  in  which  Jason  *  lost  one  of  his 
sandals  on  his  way  to  Iolkos.  Pelias,  the  usurper  of  the  throne  of 
Jason,  having  been  warned  by  an  oracle  to  be  aware  of  a  stranger 
who  would  present  himself  at  Iolkos  with  only  one  sandal,  was 
terrified  at  the  appearance  of  the  lawful  king,  and  accordingly 
advised  him  to  undertake  the  Argonautic  expedition,  stipulating  to 
resign  the  throne  on  his  return. 

According  to  the  testimony  of  Stesichorus,  Meleager  shot  his 
arrow  from  Iolkos  to  the  further  bank  of  the  Anauros.  s 

Having  ascended  a  short  way  up  the  hill,  the  foundations  of  a 
gate,  with  a  tower  on  each  side  of  it,  are  visible.  Higher  up  is  a 
cistern  excavated  in  the  rock,  and  further  on,  a  dilapidated  church 


1  Iliad,  2.  v.  757.  '  Apollon.  Rhod.  Argon.  1.  v.  9. 

'  Athensus  Peipnosoph.  b.  4.  c.  21. 


RUINS  OF  IOLKOS.  91 

and  some  ancient  foundations,  apparently  the  cella  of  a  temple, 
forty-six  feet  eight  inches  in  length,  and  thirty-three  feet  five  inches 
in  breadth.  On  each  side  of  it  is  a  circular  well  in  the  rock,  one 
of  which  contains  water,  while  the  other  is  filled  with  earth  and 
stones.  Not  many  paces  further  are  two  other  wells  of  a  similar 
form,  but  without  water.  The  highest  point  of  the  acropolis  rises 
from  the  sea,  the  other  extremity  descends  to  Pelion,  of  which  it  is 
a  projection  or  branch,  dividing  in  two  parts  an  extensive  plain. 
Towards  the  summit  it  is  very  narrow,  and  the  collateral  Avails 
gradually  approach,  till  there  is  only  a  space  of  a  few  feet  between. 
The  narrowest  ridge  of  the  rock  is  only  three  feet  broad,  and  there 
are  no  traces  of  walls  upon  it,  where  they  must  have  been  unneces- 
sary, as  the  steepness  of  the  precipice  forms  a  natural  fortification. 
The  general  thickness  of  the  walls  is  nine  feet;  they  are  of  the  third 
style  of  construction,  but  the  blocks  are  smaller  than  in  most  ancient 
cities.  I  followed  their  traces  down  to  the  sea,  where  there  is  a 
veglia  or  custom-house  tower,  now  no  longer  in  use.  There  can  be 
little  doubt  that  these  ruins  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Iolkos, 
which  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  Kretheus,  one  of  the 
sons  of  iEolus,  several  years  before  the  Trojan  war. 

The  walls  of  Iolkos  are  in  the  same  style  as  those  at  the  foot  of  the 
Pergama,'  and  were  probably  constructed  nearly  at  the  same  period. 
When  Homer  *  gives  to  Iolkos  the  epithet  of  broad,  he  no  doubt 
alludes  to  the  extensive  plains  in  its  neighbourhood,  and  not  to  the 
city  itself,  which,  from  the  nature  of  the  situation,  Avas  particularly 
narrow ;  the  same  poet  has  distinguished  it  by  the  epithet  of 
Avell  built,5  while  Seneca4  gives  it  the  appropriate  appellation  of 
parva.  The  vieAv  from  this  place  is,  as  usual  on  all  elevated  spots 
in  Greece,  beautiful,  extensive,  and  interesting.  The  eye  expatiates 
over  the  undulating  outline  of  those  hills  which  encompass  the 
Pagaseean  Gulf.     The  summits  of  Euboea  bound  the  most  distant 


1  Discovered  in  1811  by  Monsieur  Mauduih.  % 

*  Odyss.  I  1.  v.  245. eapv/apw  la.oXv.tp — 

1  Iliad,  2.  v.  712. evxliptty  lawXxov —  *  Medea,  Act.  3.  v.  457. 

N  2 


92  MOUNT  PELION. 

part  of  the  view:  the  foot  of  Pelion,  the  projecting  shore  of  Pagasai, 
the  plain  of  Demetrias,  and  the  mountains  which  rise  beyond  it,  are 
all  combined  in  the  spacious  area  of  this  magnificent  prospect. 

The  islands  of  Skiathos  and  Skopelos  are  before  the  entrance  of 
the  gulf;  the  former  is  fertile,  and  contains  two  villages,  and  a  few 
remains  of  an  ancient  city.  The  name  of  this  island  is  supposed  to 
be  derived  from  2*/a  and  A@og,  because  the  shadow  of  Mount  Athos 
is  said  to  have  reached  so  far  at  a  certain  period  of  the  year;  but 
it  is  difficult  to  give  credit  to  this  account,  as  Athos  is  at  least 
fifty  miles  distant  from  Skiathos  in  a  direct  line.  This  question 
might  however  be  ascertained,  by  finding  the  exact  height  and  dis- 
tance of  the  mountain  from  the  nearest  part  of  that  island. 

Skopelos,  which  is  smaller  than  Skiathos,  is  fertile,  but  contains 
only  one  village  with  a  scanty  population.  About  three  miles  from 
this  island  is  another  named  Chilidromia,  containing  one  village.  In 
the  same  vicinity  are  other  rocks  mostly  uninhabited,  as  Peperi,' 
Kira,  and  Skantzoura,  of  which  the  ancient  names  are  unknown. 
Within  the  gulf  are  several  insular  rocks,  the  principal  of  which  are 
Kikinthos,1  Prassouda,  and  Alatas.  Strabo  3  says  that  the  principal 
islands  situated  near  the  Magnesian  shore  are  Skiathos,  Peparethos, 
Ikos,  Halonesos,  and  Skyros. 

Mount  Pelion  unites  with  Ossa,  which  terminates  at  the  vale  of 
Tempe,  being  separated  from  Olympos  by  the  valley  and  the  Pe- 
neios.  We  were  dissuaded  from  ascending  to  the  summit  of  Pelion, 
which,  from  its  projecting  situation,  as  well  as  from  its  great  eleva- 
tion, must  command  a  most  extensive  horizon  ;  but  we  were  assured 
that  the  upper  regions  of  the  mountain  were  occupied  by  a  banditti. 
Whether  this  was  the  case  or  not  must  remain  doubtful.  Indeed 
we  sometimes  strongly  suspected  that  these  stories  were  invented 
by  our  attendants,  who  preferred  travelling  on  the  high  road,  and 
loitering  in  towns,  to  the  climbing  of  rocks  and  mountains. 

1  was  informed  by  a  Greek  who  had  been  upon  its  summit,  that 
the  view  extended  over  great  part  of  Thessaly,  Macedon,  the  Archi- 

'  Probably  the  ancient  Peparethos.  '  The  ancient  name.  *  B.  9.  p.  436. 


TOWN  OF  BELESTINA.    REMAINS  OF  PHERAI.  93 

pelago  and  its  islands,  and  that  the  most  celebrated  mountains  were 
visible  from  it,  particularly  Ossa,  Olympos,  Athos,  Othrys,  Pindos, 
Oeta,  Parnassos,  and  Knemis,  besides  numerous  bays  and  promon- 
tories of  memorable  note. 

Pelion  is  now  named  sometimes  Plesnid,    and   sometimes   the 
Mountain  ofiSaint  George. 


TO  BELESTINA  (PHERAI)  AND  TOLELERE. 

We  quitted  Bolo  on  the  2d  of  June,  with  the  intention  of  visiting 
the  vale  of  Tempe,  and  of  passing  by  Pherai  and  Larissa. 

On  setting  out,  we  proceeded  in  a  north-west  direction,  with  Pe- 
lion on  our  right,  and  the  castle  of  Bolo  and  plain  of  Demetrias  on 
our  left.  In  two  hours  and  twenty  minutes  we  came  to  a  large  tu- 
mulus of  earth  near  the  road :  at  its  base  are  some  traces,  com- 
posed of  small  stones.  We  soon  after  entered  the  fertile  plain  of 
Pherai,  and  passed  successively  three  tumuli  at  equal  distances, 
with  an  interval  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  between  each.  Prom  hence, 
we  viewed  the  town  of  Belestina,  the  ancient  Pherai,  and  the  lake  of 
Bcebeis,  with  Ossa  and  Olympos  toAvering  majestically  upon  the 
right.  To  the  left  was  a  lower  range  of  hills,  on  Avhich  the  large 
village  of  Saint  George  was  conspicuously  situated. 

On  quitting  the  tumuli,  we  crossed  a  small  stream,  with  mulberry 
trees  on  its  banks,  and  after  passing  through  an  extensive  Turkish 
burying-ground,  entered  Belestina,  which  is  three  hours  and  a  half 
from  Bolo.  We  passed  through  the  town,  as  we  were  anxious  to 
examine  the  Hyperian  fountain,1  which  is  in  its  suburbs,  at  the  foot 

>  At  present  called  KifaXo  Ppviri- 


94  HYPERIAN  FOUNTAIN. 

of  the  ancient  acropolis.  A  small  lake,  apparently  about  a  hun- 
dred yards  in  diameter,  and  with  water  of  the  most  crystalline  purity, 
bubbles  up  out  of  the  ground.  It  is  surrounded  by  many  beautiful 
trees,  principally  platani,  poplars,  cypresses,  olives,  and  a  few  small 
palms,  the  continuity  of  whose  shade  is  broken  by  intervening  build- 
ings of  a  most  elegant  form;  while  the  surrounding  verdure  is  vividly 
contrasted  with  the  tall  white  minarets  of  several  mosques.  The 
lake  is  not  deep;  and  a  line  of  large  blocks  runs  through  the  middle 
of  it  to  serve  as  stepping-stones;  but  as  they  are  rather  far  apart,  and 
are  covered  with  a  perpetual  moisture,  my  foot  slipped  when  I  was 
attempting  to  cross  over,  and  I  fell  into  the  water,  to  the  great 
amusement  of  the  surrounding  Turks,  who,  relaxing  the  usual  fixed 
solemnity  of  their  muscles,  laughed  most  heartily  at  my  accident. 

The  Hyperian  fountain  was  celebrated  in  the  earliest  times ;  Ho- 
mer represents  Hector  condoling  with  Andromache  on  the  impend- 
ing castastrophe  of  the  Trojan  contest,  and  expressing  his  dread  of 
her  being  carried  prisoner  to  Greece,  exclaims  in  the  tender  soli- 
citude of  prophetic  apprehension  : — 

Kai  ft.iv  vSuip  pofEOJf  Mecrmjifof  ij    e       ij{ 
Ilo\\'  a,exct.£0[i.£v>). ' 

This  fountain  was  represented  on  the  money  of  Pherai,  and  I  have 
seen  a  scarce  silver  coin1  of  this  town,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a 
lion's  head  spouting  water  from  its  mouth.  Strabo3  says  that  the 
Hyperian  fountain  was  in  the  middle  of  the  town  of  Pherai.  It  is 
mentioned  by  Pindar;4  and  according  to  Sophocles,5  was  pleasing 
even   to  the  gods  :   "  fi    yq    »ui   <J>E£>a<a    X^S, £"   cvyyovov    ff  vdvg  Tneotia 

'  Iliad,  6.  v.  457. — "  And  you  shall  unwillingly  draw  water  from  the  Messeid,  or  Hype- 
riau  fount." 

1  In  the  collection  of  Colonel  Leake ;  also  published  by  Eckhel,  Numi  Veteres  Anecdoti, 
pars  1.  tab.  6. 

1  B.  9.  p.  439.  «  Pyth.  4.  v.  222. 

5  See  the  Scholiast  of  Pindar  on  Pyth.  4.  v.  222. 


TOWN  OF  BELESTINA.     REMAINS  OF  PHERAI.  95 

The  origin  of  this  town  boasts  the  highest  antiquity;  according 
to  the  testimony  of  Apollodorus,1  it  was  founded  before  the  Argo- 
nautic  expedition,  by  Pheres,  son  of  Kretheus,  who  was  grandfather 
of  Jason  of  Iolkos.  It  was  a  place  of  considerable  strength  and  im- 
portance,1 and  the  fertility  of  the  adjacent  country  made  no  small 
addition  to  its  wealth.  Its  acropolis  was  placed  on  an  eminence  of 
moderate  height,  which  rose  from  the  Hyperian  fountain.  It  has 
preserved  hardly  any  traces  of  antiquity ;  one  single  block  of  stone 
alone  remains  of  the  vast  bulwarks  by  which  the  tyrant  Alexander 
was  defended  in  all  his  cruelties  and  iniquities.  It  is  surprising  how 
completely  the  remains  of  this  town  have  been  destroyed ;  a  few 
scattered  blocks  of  stone,  and  some  Doric  frusta,  are  the  only  an- 
tiquities remaining.  We  enjoyed  a  view  from  this  spot,  which  over- 
looks the  town  and  its  luxuriant  gardens,  with  the  rich  level  of  the 
Pelasgic  plain,3  and  lake  Boebeis,*  extending  to  Mount  Pelion  ;  the 
summit  of  which,  dotted  with  its  aerial  villages,  peeps  over  a  ridge 
of  hills  that  enclose  the  plain  on  the  side  of  Magnesia,  and  the  coast 
of  Demetrias. 

Belestina,  like  the  Pherai  of  old,  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  trees 
and  gardens;5  Pagasai  was  its  port;6  from  which,  according  to 
Strabo,7  it  was  distant  ninety  stadia. 

We  stopped  near  the  beautiful  margin  of  the  Hyperian  fountain, 
where  a  wide-spreading  platanus,Avith  its  dense  foliage,  protected  us 
from  the  torrid  rays  of  the  sun,  and  enabled  us  to  enjoy  some  hours 
of  grateful  refreshment.  The  frustum8  of  a  Doric  column  served 
us  as  a  table ;  which,  with  some  other  remains,  indicates  the  site  of 
a  temple. 


B.  1.  c.  14.  *  See  Polyb.  and  Livy,  passim.  '  Slrabo,  b.  9.  p.  436. 

Homer  says  that  Pherai  was  near  Lake  Boibeis  : 

Oi  h  ispa;  svepovfo  vagal  BoifiijiSst,  Xijxvijy. — Iliad,  2.  v.  7  1 1. 
s  Polyb.  b.  17.  p.  756.     Livy,  b.  33.  c.  6. 

6  Harpocrat.  Lexic.  in  v.  Xla.ya.ira.;,  p.  272.  '  B.  9.  p.  436. 

8  Three  feet  four  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter ;  breadth  of  fluting,  six  inches. 


96  PELASGIC  PLAIN.    LAKE  BOEBEIS. 

Having  made  some  drawings  of  this  delightful  place,  we  left  it 
with  reluctance  in  the  evening ;  and  a  short  way  out  of  the  town 
were  stopped  by  the  custom-house  officers,  who  insisted  upon  our 
paying  duty  for  our  luggage.  After  producing  our  ferman,  and  some 
high  words  on  both  sides,  we  proceeded  unmolested,  and  passed 
through  the  plain  where  a  conflict '  took  place  between  the  Mace- 
donians and  the  Romans,  a  few  days  prior  to  the  decisive  battle  of 
Cynoscephalae  at  Pharsalia.  As  we  journeyed  on,  the  country  deeply 
interested  us  by  its  native  charms,  and  its  classical  recollections. 
We  were  now  in  the  land  ennobled  not  only  by  heroes,  warriors, 
giants,  and  centaurs,  but  even  by  the  gods  themselves !  Pelion  was 
seen  receding  behind  the  nearer  eminences;  Ossa  and  Olympos 
reared  their  lofty  heads  above  the  clouds.  The  latter  was  covered 
with  snow,  as  its  elevation  greatly  exceeded  that  of  Ossa.  The  plain 
which  we  traversed  was  anciently  inhabited  by  the  Lapithae :  who 
having  expelled  the  Perrhaebi,  were  in  their  turn  driven  out  by  the 
Pelasgi,  who  then  gave  their  name  to  the  region  which  comprised 
Pherai,  Larissa,  Gyrton,  Mopsion,  Boibeis,  Ossa,  Homole,  Pelion, 
and  Magnesia. 2 

In  the  time  of  Jason  of  Pherai,  this  country  could  equip  6000  ca- 
valry, 3  of  which  the  Athenians  hired  a  portion  in  their  Avars. 

Lake4  Boebeis  was  visible  on  our  right;  its  pastoral  plains  and 
picturesque  and  verdant  banks  strongly  invited  our  attention ;  but 
our  impatience  to  visit  the  vale  of  Tempe  admitted  of  no  delay.  This 
lake  is  deep, J  and  abounds  in  fish ;  it  is  mentioned  by  Hesiod  and 
Homer,  and  had  the  appellation  of  Boibeis,  Boibia,  Boibias,  Boebeis, 


1   Polyb.  b.  17,  p.  756.     Livy,  b.  33.  c.  6.  *  Strabo,  b.  <).  p.  439- 

3  Xenophon,  Hist.  b.  6.  c.  1. 

4  It  appears  from  Euripides,  that  the  country  about  Boibe  belonged  to  Aduietos: 

Tot  yap  7roku^rj\olala.v 
Eoltzv  omets,  wept  xaWtvaov 

Boitiai'  Xt^vav. Alcest.  v.  591. 

s  Scymnos  of  Chios.  Orbis  Descriptio.    The  town  of  Boibe  was  said  to 'have  been  founded 
by  Boibos,son  of  Glaphuros.     See  Stephan.  de  Urbib.  p.  227.     Eustath.  in  Homer,  p.  327. 


LAKE  BOEBEIS.  97 

and  Boebes.1     Lucan1  terms  it  Ossoea  Boebeis,  from  its  vicinity  to 
Mount  Ossa;  and  the  "juncosa  littora  Boebes"  of  Ovid'  is  appli- 
cable to  its  marshy  banks.     The  town,  which  was  situated  on  a  pro- 
montory, projecting  into  the  lake,  was  named  Boibe,4  of  which  the 
remains  are  still  visible.     The  town  and  the  lake  were  also  known 
by  the  name  of  Xynia;5  in  its  vicinity,  there  was  a  town  named 
Armenios,6  the  birth-place  of  Armenos,  who  went  with  Jason  to 
the  Caspian  sea,  and  gave  his  name  to  Armenia.    We  passed  through 
the  Dotian  plain,  which  extended  beyond  the  lake  Boebeis  to  the 
foot  of  Ossa.7     Near  the  road  are  some  remains  of  an  ancient  build- 
ing, which  was  probably  a  temple ;  a  fluted  Doric  column  of  small 
dimensions  was  lying  on  the  ground.    We  passed  near  a  tumulus,  and 
crossed  a  bridge  over  a  stream  which  is  an  hour  and  twent}r  minutes 
from  Belestina ;   and  twenty  minutes  further,  we  crossed  another 
bridge,  over  a  dry  torrent  bed.    Seventeen  minutes  from  this  place, 
Ave  came  to  some  ancient  traces,  and  several  large  upright  stones. 
We  then  crossed  a  stream  near  a  village,  and  observed  some  traces 
and  foundations ;  probably  the  remains  of  an  ancient  city.     This 
fertile  tract  was  formerly  occupied  by  several  towns,  of  which  but 
few  can  be  identified  in  the  present  confused  wreck  of  their  remains  : 
they  are  replaced  by  villages,  which  are  scattered  about  the  plain. 
We  arrived  at  the  village  of  Tolelere  in  the  evening,  when  we  found 
it  difficult  to  procure  the  use  of  a  cottage  from  the  inhabitants,  who 
were  all  Turks.     This  place  is  two  hours  and  three  quarters  from 
Belestina.    Here  is  a  mosque  on  a  small  eminence,  which  commands 
a  view  of  the  surrounding  plain. 


1  See  Stephanus  de  Urbib.  p.  227.       '  Pharsal.  b.  7.  v.  176.      3  Metam.  b.  7.  v.  231. 
4  Stephanus.  loc.  cit.  5  See  Stephanus  and  the  notes  on  this  word  and  Boi/3ij,  p.  227. 

s  Strabo,  b.  11.  p.  530-  '  See  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  442. 


VOL.  II. 


98 


TO  LARISSA. 

On  the  3d  we  departed  with  pleasure  from  the  place  where  we  had 
experienced  such  an  uncourteous  reception,  and  passed  through  an 
extensive  Turkish  burying  ground.  An  ancient  city  or  fortress,  now 
called  Kastik,  was  distinguishable  on  the  foot  of  Ossa,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  four  miles  and  a  half  from  Tolelere ;  we  were  informed 
that  it  contained  a  fine  fountain  issuing  from  a  rock.  Having  passed 
a  stream  and  some  ancient  traces,  a  great  tumulus  Avas  visible  on 
our  right.  We  went  through  a  village  named  Mouimos,  which  is 
two  hours  from  Tolelere ;  here  are  some  wells,  the  water  of  which 
is  drawn  up  by  a  long  pole,  placed  horizontally  on  an  upright  stake ; 
at  one  end  of  the  pole  is  a  leathern  vessel,  and  at  the  other  extre- 
mity a  large  stone  as  a  weight.  These  contrivances  are  used  through- 
out the  plain  of  Thessaly,  and  are  common  in  most  countries  of  the 
north,  particularly  in  England.  We  crossed  a  bridge  over  a  small 
stream,  and  had  the  first  view  of  Larissa  at  the  distance  of  about 
eight  miles.  It  is  merged  in  the  hollow  of  the  plain,  and  the  first 
objects  which  are  distinguished  by  the  approaching  traveller,  are  the 
minarets  and  cypresses  which  tower  above  the  town.  Four  tumuli 
were  visible  in  different  parts  of  the  plain.  The  road  led  through 
a  mixture  of  arable  land,  pasture,  and  vineyards.  We  passed  near 
a  large  tumulus,  the  summit  of  which  is  occupied  by  a  thatched 
cottage  or  shed,  in  which  a  guard  is  stationed  during  the  grape 
season,  to  keep  off  thieves.  All  the  way  from  Belestina  the  roads 
are  excellent.  They  are  broad,  and  perfectly  practicable  for  car- 
riages. The  plain  is  generally  flat,  but  is  in  some  places  diver- 
sified with  a  few  gentle  undulations.  In  four  hours  and  a  half 
from  Tolelere,  we  entered  the  ancient  and  modern  capital  of 
Thessaly,  and  were  twenty  minutes  in  passing  through  the  town 
to  the  archbishop's'  house,  by  whom,  as  we  were  without  any  com- 

1  The  Archbishop  of  Larissa  has  the  command  over  nine  suffragans. 


INSOLENCE  OF  THE  TURKS.  99 

mendatory  letters,  we  were  received  with  difficulty  and  mistrust. 
Soon  after  our  arrival,  the  archbishop  sent  to  let  us  know  that  the 
Mollah  Effendi,  the  governor  of  the  town,  had  ordered  us  to  quit 
the  place  in  four-and-twenty  hours  !  Conceiving,  however,  that  this 
order  was  nothing  more  than  a  cautious  deception  of  his  grace, 
we  called  upon  the  mollah  to  demand  an  explanation  of  the  rea- 
sons, which  had  induced  him  to  treat  perfect  strangers  with  such 
harsh  and  peremptory  incivility.  We  delivered  to  him  our  ferman  ; 
and  at  the  same  time  informed  him  that  it  was  our  intention  to  re- 
main in  Larissa  as  long  as  we  thought  proper.  We  found  him  sitting 
in  state,  surrounded  by  a  great,  number  of  attendants,  who  appeared 
inclined  to  insult  us,  and  to  deride  our  dress  and  manners ;  but  the 
mollah  gave  us  a  courteous  reception ;  and  assured  us  that  he  had 
issued  no  orders  for  our  departure,  and  that  we  were  perfectly  wel- 
come to  remain  in  the  town  as  long  as  we  liked.  We  found  that  the 
conduct  of  the  archbishop  was  not  occasioned  by  any  deficiency  of 
hospitality,  but  by  a  fear  of  incurring  the  displeasure  of  the  mollah, 
if  he  entertained  foreigners  of  whom  he  had  no  knowledge.  The 
Greeks  at  this  place  are  treated  with  uncommon  harshness  and 
tyranny  ;  and  the  Turks  are  more  overbearing,  and  insolent,  than  in 
any  other  part  of  Greece.  The  Greeks  have  only  one  church,  which 
is  the  catholicon  or  cathedral,  and  the  archbishop  owes  his  protec- 
tion from  insult  to  two  Turks  who  are  appointed  by  the  government 
to  live  in  his  house. 

I  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  a  striking  instance  of  the  wanton 
brutality  which  is  practised  by  these  dull  tyrants,  and  of  the  in- 
sensate insolence  by  which  they  are  characterised.  We  were  making 
a  drawing  of  the  bridge  over  the  Peneios,  and  were  attended  by 
two  Turkish  guards  in  order  to  keep  off  the  crowd,  which  would 
have  collected  around  us  if  we  had  been  alone.  Some  Greeks  of  the 
upper  class  happened  at  that  time  to  pass  by,  and,  attracted  by  the 
novelty  of  our  dress  and  occupation,  stopped  to  gaze  at  us  at  a 
distance.  The  Turks,  without  the  least  warning,  assailed  them  with 
some  large  stones,  by  which  one   of  the  Greeks  received  a  bad 

o  2 


100  LARISSA. 

wound  on  the  head,  but  walked  away  without  daring  to  utter  a 
complaint.  The  numberless  instances  of  this  brutal  violence  with 
Avhich  the  Greeks  are  daily  oppressed,  may  at  length  rouse  their 
dormant  courage,  and  bring  about  the  much  desired  day  of  re- 
tribution. 

Larissa,  which  is  still  known  to  the  Greeks  by  its  ancient  name,1 
is,  as  formerly,  the  capital  of  Thessaly.  In  the  earliest  times  it 
was  the  principal  city  of  the  country,  called  by  Homer2  Argos 
Pelasgicon,  and  was  inhabited  by  the  Lapithai,  who  had  expelled 
the  Perrhaebi  from  Perrheebia,  or  Pelasgiotis.3  The  walls  of  Larissa 
were  restored  by  the  Emperor  Justinian ; 4  but  it  was  unable  to 
resist  the  forces  of  the  Marquis  of  Montferrat,  who  took  it  about 
the  year  1205,  driving  before  him  Leon  Sgure,  Lord  of  Nauplia 
and  Corinth,  who  was  unable  to  maintain  even  the  strong  post  of 
Thermopylae.5  The  Turks  took  possession6  of  it  with  the  rest  of 
Thessaly  in  the  year  1390.  Very  few  of  its  ancient  remains  appear; 
though  there  may  probably  be  some  within  the  Turkish  houses  and 
gardens,  which  are  concealed  from  the  traveller,  but  which,  with 
many  other  interesting  relics  that  are  scattered  throughout  Turkey, 
will  be  brought  to  light  when  this  torpid  and  half-barbarous  race  of 
beings  are  expelled  from  the  beautiful  countries  Avhich  they  now 
degrade  by  their  superstition  and  depress  by  their  tyranny. 

About  three  hours  to  the  west  of  Larissa  are  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  city,  at  present  named  Palaia  Larissa.7  It  is  not  near  the 
Peneios ;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  modern  Larissa  is  situated 
upon  the  remains  of  the  ancient  city.  I  was  unable  to  obtain  any 
certain  information  concerning  its  population ;  but  calculating  by 


1  Its  Turkish  name  is  Geniskehir. 

8  See  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  369.  who  cites  Homer,  Iliad,  2.  v.  63 1.    See  also  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist, 
b.  4.  c.  7.  3  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  439. 

*  Procop.  de  iEdific.  b.  4.  c.  3.  p.  12.  Paris  edit. 

*  Hist,  de  Constantinop.  sous  les  Einp.  Francois,  b.  1.  p.  23.  Paris  edit. 
6  Due.  Michael.  Nepot.  Hist.  *  Ancient  Larissa. 


LARISSA.  101 

the  number  of  its  mosques,  which  are  twenty-six,  it  probably  must 
contain  at  least  20,000  Mohamedans.  The  greater  part  of  the 
inhabitants  are  Turks,  some  of  whom  are  powerful  and  opulent. 
There  are  no  mosques  in  Greece  so  grand  as  those  of  Larissa, 
and  I  wished  to  visit  some  of  them,  which  no  doubt  contain 
rich  marbles,  fragments,  and  inscriptions.  But  the  overbearing 
manner  of  the  populace  would  not  permit  me  to  gratify  my  cu- 
riosity. 

Those  who  have  not  visited  Mohamedan  countries  can  have  no 
idea  of  the  admirable  cleanliness  of  Turkish  mosques.  No  per- 
sons are  suffered  to  walk  even  in  the  porticos  without  taking  oft' 
their  shoes,  and  much  less  to  spit  or  to  commit  any  other  nuisance 
in  their  vicinity.  It  were  to  be  wished  that  similar  regulations 
were  adopted  in  Christian  countries,  where  the  exterior  of  the 
churches  is  generally  desecrated  by  accumulations  of  filth  of  every 
kind,  while  the  interior,  particularly  in  Italy,  forms  the  spitting 
place  of  the  whole  congregation.  The  abominable  custom  also  of 
burying  within  the  places  of  worship  is  never  permitted  by  the 
Mohamedans. 

Larissa  has  100  villages  under  its  command,  the  greater  part  of 
which  are  situated  in  the   surrounding  plain.     The  town  is  well 
supplied  with  provisions,  and  the  bazars  and  bezestins  are  richly 
stocked  with  merchandize.     Its  numerous  gardens  give  it  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  large  straggling  village.     The  houses  are  constructed 
with  that  picturesque  irregularity  so  peculiar  to  Turkey ;  while  the 
gardens   are  adorned  with  fountains,  and  many  different  sorts  of 
trees,  amongst  which  the  cypress  is  particularly  conspicuous.     The 
Peneios,  which  flows  through  the  town,  has  a  muddy  hue,  with  a 
surface  as  smooth  as  oil.     Near  the  archiepiscopal  palace  it  is  tra- 
versed by  a  well  built  bridge  of  stone,  composed  of  eight  pointed 
arches ;  and  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  is  decorated  with  the 
large  and  elegant  mosque  of  Hassan  Bey.     The  river  is  never  dry, 
though  in  summer  it  is  shallow :  after  heavy  rains,  and  the  sudden 
melting  of  the  snow  on  Pindos,  it  sometimes  overflows  its  banks, 


102  THE  PENEIOS. 

when  the  impetuous  torrent  of  its  waters  sweeps  away  houses,  and 
inundates  the  neighbouring  plain.' 

This  celebrated  river  obtained  its  name  from  Peneios,  a  son  of 
Oceanos  and  Tethys :  Peneios  was  grandfather  of  Lapithos  and 
Centauros.  It  is  called  Salambria  by  Tzetzes,2  and  Salabria  and 
Salampria  by  some  of  the  Byzantine  historians,  which  name  seems 
to  be  derived  from  2uXup€ri  "  an  outlet,"  and  was  applicable  to 
it  more  particularly  at  the  vale  of  Tempe,  where  it  has  forced  a 
passage  through  the  rocks  of  Ossa  and  Olympos. 

Larissa  was  the  first  place  where  we  saw  camels.  They  are  not 
used  in  Greece,  and  our  agogiates,  who  had  accompanied  us  with 
his  horses  from  Athens,  was  so  surprised  on  seeing  them,  for  the 
first  time  in  his  life,  that  he  ran  to  us  in  great  haste,  begging  vis  to 
come  to  the  river  side,  where  there  were  some  horses  of  a  most  ex- 
traordinary size  and  shape,  and  such  he  as  was  certain  we  had  never 
seen  in  any  of  our  travels.  These  were  camels ;  they  begin  to  be 
common  in  Macedon  and  in  Thrace.  In  Asia  Minor  I  have  seen 
great  caravans  of  them  in  company  with  horses  and  asses.  The 
ancients  imagined  that  the  horse  could  not  bear  the  sight  or  smell 
of  the  camel,5  but  I  did  not  perceive  any  marks  of  this  aversion  ; 
and  they  seem  to  live  together  in  perfect  harmony  :  a  caravan  of 
camels  is  generally  preceded  by  an  ass. 

At  Larissa,  and  at  most  of  the  towns  and  villages  of  the  great  Thes- 
salian  plain,  they  use  carts  drawn  by  two  oxen  ;  they  resemble  those 
of  the  Troade,  and  are  nearly  of  the  ancient  form,  being  upon  two 
solid  wheels  without  spokes,  hence  denominated  tympana  by  the  an- 
cients.* Representations  of  these  carriages  are  seen  on  several  an- 
cient monuments,  particularly  on  the  paintings  in  the  baths  of  Titus 
at  Rome,  and  are  probably  similar  to  those  described  by  Virgil :' 

■ Non  ullo  ex  aequore  cernes 

Plura  domuin  tardis  decedere  plaustra  juvencis. 

1  See  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  44-1.  °  Chiliad.  9-  707. 

3  Herodot.  b.  1.  c.  80.     Xenophon  Cyropaed.  b.  7.  c.  1. 
*  Virgil,  Georg.  b.  2.  v.  444.  s  Georg.  b.  2.  v.  205. 


LARISSA.  103 

The  two-wheeled  cart  is  the  dtxvxXov  of  the  ancients,1  the  plaus- 
trum  of  Isidorus,2  who  thus  describes  it,  "  Plaustrum  est  vehiculum 
duarum  rotarum,  quibus  onera  inferuntur."  Probus^  describes  the 
tympanon  wheel,  and  says,  "  Plaustra  sunt  vehicula  quorum  rotae 
non  sunt  radiatae,  sed  tympana  cohrerentia  axi,  et  juncta  cantho 
ferreo."  The  nr^ccx.vKXov1'  or  four-wheeled  carriage  is  only  used  at 
Constantinople  and  in  its  vicinity  ;  they  are  drawn  by  three  horses 
abreast,  being  the  rgiva'ka  ugpcda.  of  the  ancient  Greeks,  the  triga  of 
the  Latins. 

Larissa  is  on  the  ancient  way,  called  Pythias,  which  led  from 
Teinpe  to  Delphi,  through  Thessaly,  Pelasgia,  Oeta,  the  country  of 
the  iEnianes,  the  Melienses,the  Dorians,  and  the  Hesperian  Locrians. 
Every  ninth  year  some  noble  youths,  in  the  service  of  the  Delphic 
oracle,  were  sent  by  this  road  to  gather  laurels  from  Tempe,  for  the 
purpose  of  decorating  the  shrine  and  statues  of  Apollo.5 

The  coins  of  Larissa  are  not  uncommon ;  they  are  generally  of 
fine  execution,  and  their  usual  types  are  the  full  face  of  the  nymph 
Larissa,  the  daughter  of  Pelasgos ;  the  horse  in  various  attitudes, 
denoting  the  celebrity  of  the  Thessalian  cavalry;  and  the  naked 
figure  of  a  man  taming  a  bull,  allusive  to  the  Centaurs/  On  all 
the  coins  of  Larissa  the  name  of  the  town  is  written  with  one  s  only. 


TO  AMPELAKIA. 


We   quitted   Larissa  on    the   4th,  and   passed  through  a  large 
Turkish  cemetery,    containing   some   handsome  monuments   of  a 

1  Jul.  Pollux  Onomast.  b.  10.  c.  12.  seg.  53.  s  Orig.  b.  20.  c.  12. 

s  Ad  v.  163.  Georg.  1.  Virgil. 

4  Herodot.  b.  1.  c.    183.  b.  2.   c.  63. — Jul.  Pollux   Onomast.  b.  10.  c.  12.  seg.  53. — 
Athenaeus  Deipnosoph.  b.  5.  c.  7. 

*  iElian  Van  Hist.  b.  3.  c.  1.  6  aw>  hv  xtrleiy  Taufouy. 


104  RUINS  NEAR  MOUNT  OSSA. 

curious  and  fantastic  form,  adorned  with  inscriptions  from  the 
Cour'ann,  and  enriched  with  painted  ornaments.  Ancient  Greek 
inscriptions  are  found  amongst  the  sepulchres,  with  some  broken 
bas-reliefs  and  fragments  of  rich  marbles,  from  the  examination  of 
which  we  were  deterred  by  the  appearance  of  several  Turks  about 
the  place.  Near  this  is  the  headless  statue  of  a  female  in  white 
marble,  placed  at  the  corner  of  a  street  as  a  post ;  it  is  much  cor- 
roded, but  evidently  of  good  style. 

Some  way  from  Larissa  we  saw  five  tumuli,  and  passed  near  a 
village  called  Tschiftlik,  where  there  is  a  fountain  shaded  by  large 
trees.  In  a  few  places  the  countrymen  were  beginning  to  reap 
the  corn. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  some  inferior  heights  that  branch 
from  the  towering  sublimity  of  Ossa,1  we  kept  them  on  our  right 
hand  till  we  came  to  a  low  island  surrounded  by  a  marsh,  and 
disturbed  a  flock  of  storks  which  were  feeding;  on  frogs  and  tor- 
toises.  Some  way  further  a  spring  is  seen  issuing  from  a  rock,  and 
soon  after  we  observed  a  tumulus,  a  large  block  of  stone,  and  a  sar- 
cophagus almost  covered  by  the  earth  at  the  foot  of  a  hill.  Some 
curious  remains  might  probably  be  here  discovered  by  excavating, 
as  the  soil  is  evidently  much  elevated  above  its  ancient  level.  We 
soon  after  came  to  the  extremity  of  the  low  range  of  hills,  and 
turned  to  the  right,  proceeding  northwards.  A  tumulus  was  visible 
far  off  to  the  left.  In  three  hours  and  ten  minutes  from  Larissa  we 
reached  the  Turkish  village  called  Eremo,  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  which  are  some  traces  and  foundations,  indicating  the  situation  of 
a  small  town.  The  city  of  Atrax  was  upon  this  road  near  the  Peneios, 
and  about  ten  miles  from  Larissa,2  but  its  site  is  generally  supposed 
to  be  marked  by  some  ruins  near  the  village  of  Tornabo. 

The  fertile  Pelasgic  plain  was  formerly  animated  by  a  crowded 
population,  particularly  that  part  of  it  which  lies  between  Larissa 


1  The  modern  name  of  Ossa  is  Kissabos. 

-  Livy,  b.  32.  c.  15. — Atrax  took  its  name,  according  to  Stephanus,  from  its  founder  the 
son  of  Peneois  and  Bura. — See  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  438.  440. 


THE  PELASGIC  PLAIN.  105 

and  Tempe.  Besides  Atrax,  ancient  authors1  mention  the  three 
towns  of  Doleike,  Axorion,  and  Pytheon,  which  were  denomi- 
nated Tripolis,  from  their  immediate  vicinity  to  one  another,  with 
Ilegion,  Gonoussa,  Phalanna,  Kyphos,  Dodona,  Oloosson,2  Elone, 
Skotussa,  Mopsion,  Kranon ;  and  after  the  entrance  of  Tempe, 
Gonnoi,3  Kondylon,  and  Elateia.  On  the  same  side  of  the  plain 
were  Gyrton,  Homolis,4  Sykurion,  Argissa,  Orthe,  and  Rhage  near 
the  Peneios  ;  the  latter  was  ten  miles  from  Larissa.  Besides  these 
were  Lapithos  or  Charax,  Kuresion,  Mylai,  Libethra,  and  Velatiai ; 
and  some  castles  mentioned  by  Livy. 

Procopius5  says,  that  in  his  time  there  was,  on  the  mountains 
near  Larissa,  a  castle  called  Kefluvg07ro\is,  the  walls  of  which,  being 
ruined,  were  rebuilt  by  Justinian.  Strabo6  and  Stephanus7  mention 
a  fortress  named  Larissa,  situated  on  Mount  Ossa. 

We  stopped  some  time  to  make  a  drawing  of  Mount  Olympos,  the 
grandeur  and  the  beauty  of  which  appeared  to  increase  at  every  step 
we  took  from  Larissa.  Few  of  the  Grecian  mountains  soar  to  the 
height  of  Olympos.  Plutarch,8  citing  the  philosopher  Xenagoras, 
says  it  is  more  than  ten  stadia  in  height,  and  M.  Bernouille  makes 
it  1017  toises  (6501  English  feet).  It  forms  a  gigantic  mass,  and 
occupies  a  very  extensive  space.  Its  southern  side  constitutes 
the  boundary  of  Thessaly,  and  its  northern  base  encloses  the  plains 
of  Macedon.  To  the  west  it  branches  out  towards  Othrys,  where 
its  remote  swells  are  blended  with  those  of  Pindos,  which  terminates 
m  the  Adriatic,  with  the  abrupt  and  stormy  promontories  of  the 
Acroceraunia.  Its  rugged  outline  is  broken  into  many  summits, 
from  which  circumstance  Homer9  gives  it  the  epithet  of  iroXvdeigus. 


1  See  Livy.b.  32.  c.  15.  b.  36.  c.  10.  b.  42.  c.  53,  54.— Strabo,  b.  9. 
3  Probably  the  modern  Alassona. 

3  This  place  was  called  Gonnos,   Gonos,  Gonnoi,  and  Gonokondylos,  see  Stephan.  de 
Urbib.  p.  276. 

4  Or  Homolos,  Homole,  Homola  or  Homolion,  Euripid. — Strabo. — Stephanus  de  Urbib. 
De  jEdific.  b.  4.  c.  3.  p.  72. — Paris  edit.  6  B.  9.  p.  440. 

De  Urbib.  p.  5 1  r.     8  Life  of  iEmilius  Paulus.      9  Iliad,  1.  v.  4Q9.— Iliad,  5.  v.  754. 
VOL.  II.  P 


106  MOUNT  OLYMPOS. 

It  is  never  completely  free  from  snow;  and  Hesiod'  characterizes  it 
with  the  epithet  of  mcposig.  Homer1  in  his  Iliad  calls  it  ayumpos ; 
whereas,  in  his  Odyssey,5  he  says  that  it  is  never  agitated  by  the 
wind,  rain,  or  snow;  but  enjoys  a  clear  and  luminous  air. 

"  There  no  rude  winds  presume  to  shake  the  skies, 
"  No  rains  descend,  no  snowy  vapours  rise."* 

Nothing  is  easier,  says  an  ingenious  author,  than  to  reconcile  these 
apparent  contradictions.  Mons.  Boivin,5  indeed,  employs  for  this 
purpose  a  climax  of  singular  conjecture.  He  supposes  a  heavenly 
Olympos,  which  he  turns  upside  down,  with  its  foot  in  the  heavens, 
where  it  never  snows,  and  its  summit  towards  the  earth ;  to  which 
part  he  conceives  Homer  gave  the  epithet  of  snowy.  As  the  gods 
and  mortals  were  Anticephali,  he  maintains  that  Homer  imagined 
mountains  to  be  in  similar  situations.  But  the  poet  represents  the 
seat  of  the  gods  as  on  the  summit6  of  Olympos,  under  the  clouds ; 
and  of  course  he  does  not  imagine  it  turned  upside  down.7 

Olympos  is  full  of  breaks,  glens,  and  forests,  whence  it  had  the 
epithets  of  voXv/lv^og,2  and  -ro'hvhv^soi.9  It  retains  its  ancient  name, 
but  is  pronounced  Olymbos,  or  Elimbos ;  I  could  not  find  that  it  is 
ever  called  Lacha,  as  Castaldus  asserts. 

Mount  Ossa,  which  does  not  appear  so  high  as  Pelion,'0  is  much 
lower  than  Olympos,  and  less  extensive ;  it  is  not  so  thickly  shadowed 
with  forests,  nor  so  copiously  provided  with  water  as  Olympos.  It 
rises  gradually  to  a  point,  which  appears  about  five  thousand  feet 


1  Deor.  Generat.  v.  118.  s  Iliad,  1.  v.  420.  3  Odyss.  6.  v.  45.  4  Pope. 

5  Memoires  de  Litterat.,  dans  PHist.  de  l\Acad.  Royale  des  Inscrip.  et  Belles  lettres,  torn.  7. 

6  Iliad,  13.  v.  523. 

1  No  less  than  fourteen  mountains  of  this  name  are  mentioned  by  ancient  authors,  which 
are  in  Cilicia,  Mysia,  Troas,  Lycia,  Lydia,  Lesbos,  Crete,  two  in  Cyprus,  Arcadia,  Eleia, 
Laconia,  Messenia,  and  Thessaly.    See  Eustalh.  in  Horn,  passim. 

B  Hesiod.  Deor.  Generat.  v.  113.  9  Euripid.  Bacchae,  v.  559. 

10 Pelion  altius  Ossa.— Ovid.  Fast.  b.  3.  v.  411. 


AMPELAKIA.  107 

above  the  level  of  the  plain ;  but  I  speak  only  from  conjecture.  Its 
modern  name  is  Kissabos ;  Euripides'  calls  the  country  about  the 
Peneios  "  the  sacred  region ;  the  base  of  Olympos." 

Tav  ITrveiay  <n\>.vct.y  xwS0LV 
Kpr/iTiS'  OXu/x7T(/u  xaAAirav. 

Having  finished  our  sketches  and  observations,  we  proceeded  to- 
wards the  vale  of  Tempe.  The  country  exhibited  a  luxuriant  ver- 
dure, with  a  beautiful  intermixture  of  trees,  vineyards,  and  corn. 
We  observed  near  the  road  the  traces  of  ancient  buildings,  and  on 
our  right  hand,  a  village  named  Kagobashi,  with  one  mosque, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  a  hill ;  the  plain  here  begins  to  lose  its  depth 
of  soil,  and  becomes  rocky,  and  covered  with  large  bushes,  and  many 
kinds  of  sweet-scented  shrubs.  The  wild  vine  refreshed  the  road 
with  its  fantastic  bowers  of  chequered  shade. 

In  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  large  and  beautiful  village  of 
Baba,  which  is  about  four  hours  and  a  half  from  Larissa,  and  may 
be  the  ancient  Elateia;  which,  according  to  Livy,1  was  near  Gonnos, 
and  the  mouth  of  Tempe.  This  place,  which  is  situated  in  a  fine 
circular  plain,  before  the  narrow  entrance  of  Tempe,  is  adorned  with 
large  platani,  cypresses,  and  spreading  pines.  Its  picturesque 
beauty  is  increased  by  the  contrasted  elegance  of  the  minarets  and 
the  domes,  and  the  irregularity  of  the  houses.  The  Peneios,  which 
flows  near  it,  may  be  here  crossed  in  a  ferry-boat.  We  began  to 
ascend  a  low  branch  of  Ossa;  and  proceeding  by  a  winding  paved 
way,  passed  through  some  hay-fields,  neatly  fenced  with  hedgings, 
and  railings.  The  hay  was  made  up  into  ricks,  as  in  England.  In 
forty-eight  minutes  from  Baba,  we  arrived  at  Ampelakia,  an  exten. 
sive  town,  inhabited  entirely  by  Greeks,  who  manifest  a  degree  of 
ease,  affluence,  and  comfort,  that  are  unknown  in  most  parts  of 
Greece.  The  industrious  inhabitants  carry  on  extensive  manufac- 
tories for  dying  cotton.      The  cotton,  when  spun,  and  dyed  of  a 


1  Troad,  v.  214.  l  B.  42.  c.  54. 

p  2 


108  AMPELAKIA. 

dark  blue  colour,  sells  for  eight  Turkish  piastres  and  a  half,  the  ocque. 
The  red  sells  for  twelve  piastres.  Several  villages  along  the  foot  of 
Ossa  and  Olympos  carry  on  the  same  lucrative  trade ;  particularly 
Tornabo,  and  Rapsiana;  the  great  abundance  of  wood  and  water 
being  favourable  to  their  manufactures.  The  cotton  is  exported  to 
many  parts  of  Christendom,  but  chiefly  to  Germany. 

The  Ampelakians,  who  have  travelled,  resemble  the  islanders  of 
the  Archipelago  in  affecting  the  manners,  and  even  in  some  degree 
the  unbecoming  dress  of  Franks.  Many  of  them  wear  hats,  cravats, 
short  breeches,  and  stockings ;  a  disgusting  deviation  from  the  noble 
and  picturesque  dress  of  the  country.  A  great  school  for  the  study 
of  Hellenic,  or  ancient  Greek,  has  been  established  at  Ampelakia  by 
Platamonos  Dionysios,  the  present  enlightened  Bishop  of  Saloniki,' 
who  has  also  founded  another  in  the  neighbouring  town  of  Rapsiana. 
Ampelakia  is  accordingly  increasing  in  wealth  and  population,  and 
contains  at  present  between  five  and  six  thousand  inhabitants,  who 
pay  annually  to  their  lord,  the  Pasha  of  Joannina,  the  sum  of  sixty 
thousand  Turkish  piastres.  The  port  of  Ampelakia  is  Karitza, 
which  is  six  hours  from  it,  on  the  Macedonian  coast. 

We  were  hospitably  received  in  the  house  of  a  Greek  merchant, 
named  Papatheodoro,  who  had  travelled  in  Germany,  France,  Hol- 
land, and  Italy,  on  mercantile  speculations,  and  spoke  with  ease  the 
languages  of  those  countries.  He  had  lately  obtained  from  the  Vizier 
of  Aly  Pasha,  for  a  sum  of  money,  a  protection  from  all  extraordinary 
contributions  or  avanias.  This  curious  document  began  in  the  true 
oriental  style,  in  the  following  words,  "  We,  the  grand  Vizier  of  Aly 
Pasha,  declare  that  Papatheodoro,  of  Ampelakia,  shall  neither  be 
stung  by  the  flies,  nor  hitten  by  the  serpent." 

'The  ancient  Thessalonika,  situated  at  the  extremity  of  the  Thermaic  Gulf. 


THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE.  109 


TO  THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE. 


On  the  morning  of  the  5th,  we  mounted  our  horses,  in  order  to 
pass  the  whole  day  at  the  vale  of  Tempe,  one  of  the  principal  objects 
of  our  journey  from  Athens.  We  descended  to  the  plain,  crossed 
a  small  stream,  and  came  to  an  open  forest  of  platani,  of  great 
size  and  venerable  age,  upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Peneios,  whose 
gentle  current  glides  sequestered  under  the  arching  shade.  It  flows, 
says  iElian, '  as  smooth  as  oil.  Ovid1  affirms  that  it  rolls  with  foam- 
ing waves ;  but  he  alludes  to  that  part  of  the  stream  which  is  between 
its  source  and  the  Thessalian  plain.  It  rises  on  Pindos, '  near  Gomphi, 
and  before  it  enters  Tempe  receives  several  of  the  Thessalian  rivers ; 
particularly  the  Apidanos,  Onochonos,  Enipeus,  and  the  Parnisos;* 
it  also  receives  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Kouralios,  and  Titaresios. 
A  short  way  from  the  forest  of  platani,  we  entered  the  vale  of  Tempe, 
that  is  thrown  between  the  approximating  precipices  of  Ossa  and 
Olympos;  the  former  on  the  south,  the  latter  on  the  north.  The 
summits  of  these  mountains  are  not  visible  from  any  part  of  the 
valley ;  but  the  traveller  beholds  on  each  side  a  stupendous  wall  of 
mighty  precipices  rising  in  prodigious  grandeur,  shattered  into  defor- 
mities, and  sprinkled  with  a  wild  profusion  of  trees  and  aromatic 
shrubs.  The  road  runs  at  the  foot  of  Ossa,  with  the  Peneios  flow- 
ing to  the  left,  by  which  it  is  separated  from  Olympos.  In  some 
places  this  river  displays  a  broad  channel,  which  in  others  is 
so  narrow  that  it  has  the  appearance  of  being  compressed  by  the 
opposite  rocks,  the  collision  of  which  is  prevented  only  by  an  inter- 
vening glen  of  a  few  hundred  paces  in  breadth. 


1  Var.  Hist.  b.  3.  c.  1. 

* • Peneus  ab  imo, 

Effusus  Pindo  spumosis  volvitur  undis. — Metam.  b.  I,  v.  .570. 
*  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  438.  Eustath.  in  Horn.  321.  et  seq.  •  Herodot.  b.  1.  c.  129. 


110  THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE. 

Many  authors  have  extolled  the  diaphanous  purity  of  the 
Peneios,  although  it  must,  in  all  periods,  have  exhibited  a  muddy 
appearance,  at  least  during  its  progress  through  the  Thessalian 
plain :  for  who  can  expect  a  current  of  lucid  crystal  in  an  argil- 
laceous soil?  Strabo,1  Pliny,1  and  others,  have  misunderstood 
the  meaning  of  Homer,3  when  speaking  of  the  confluence  of  the 
silvery  Peneios,  and  the  beautiful  Titaresios,  which  he  says  do  not 
mix  their  streams,  the  latter  flowing,  like  oil,  on  the  silver  waters  of 
the  former  : 

"  Or  where  the  pleasing  Titaresius  glides, 
And  into  Peneus  rolls  his  easy  tides ; 
Yet,  o'er  the  silver  surface  pure  they  flow, 
The  sacred  stream  unmix'd  with  streams  below."4 

Strabo,  in  complete  contradiction  to  the  meaning  of  Homer,  asserts 
that  the  Peneios  is  clear,  and  the  Titaresios  muddy :  Pliny  has  com- 
mitted the  same  error ;  he  says  the  Peneios  "  accipit  amnem  Euro  ton,5 
nee  recipit ;  sed,  olei  modo  supernatantem  (ut  dictum  est  ab  Homero), 
sed  brevi  spatio  portatum,  abdicat :  Poenales  aquas,  dirisque  genitas, 
argenteis  suis  misceri  recusans."  And,  a  little  before,  in  enume- 
rating the  Thessalian  rivers,  he  says,  "  ante  cunctos  claritate  Pe- 
neus." The  mud  of  the  Peneios  is  of  a  light  colour,  for  which  reason 
Homer  gives  it  the  epithet  of  silvery ;  which,  for  a  similar  cause, 
was  applied  by  the  ancients  to  the  Acarnanian  Acheloos.  The  Tita- 
resios,6 and  other  smaller  streams,  which  are  rolled  from  Olympos 
and  Ossa,  are  so  extremely  clear,  that  their  waters  are  distinguished 


1  B.  9.  p.  441.  *  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  8. 

3  Oi  7'af/.cJ>'  ipiplcv  Til&f>Y)<nov  spy  tvepovh 
Ocr  p '  tv  ITojveiov  tspoiei  xaWippow  uJwg 
OvS  oys  Tlyviiu)  cvpjj.i<rytlou  apyvgoSivy 

AWalc  fuy  xafiuviepfliv  smi^iei  iju?"  iXaiov. Iliad,  2.  v.  754. 

Pope.  5  Another  name  for  the  Titaresios.     See  Strabo,  b.  9-  p-  440. 

6  The  Titaresios  had  its  source  at  Mount  Titaros,  which  was  part  of  Olympos.     Strabo, 
b.  9.  p.  441.     See  Eustath.in  Horn.  p.  336.  8.  26. 


THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE.  Ill 

from  those  of  the  Peneios  to  a  considerable  distance  from  the  point 
of  their  confluence. 

Barthelemy '  has  followed  Strabo  and  Pliny,  and  given  an  inter- 
pretation to  the  descriptive  lines  of  Homer,  which  the  original  was 
never  intended  to  convey.  The  same  effect  is  seen  when  muddy 
rivers  of  considerable  volume  mingle  with  the  sea,  or  any  other 
clear  water.  I  particularly  observed  it  at  the  united  mouth  of  the 
Simois  and  Scamander,  whose  muddy  course  interrupts,  for  a  long 
way,  the  clearness  of  the  Hellespont.  The  same  effect  happens  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Danube,  in  the  Black  Sea ; 2  and  the  red  water  of 
the  Syrius,  in  Marocco,  discolours  the  sea  for  two  leagues  from  its 
mouth.1 

One  of  the  most  ancient  names  of  the  Peneios,  according  to 
Strabo,4  was  Araxis,  from  its  having  burst  its  way  through  Ossa 
and  Olympos.  We  proceeded  along  the  ancient  way,  which  has 
been  cut  with  much  labour  on  the  steep  and  rugged  side  of  Ossa. 
Soon  after  entering  the  vale,  we  came  to  an  aperture  in  the  rock, 
about  three  feet  in  circumference,  and  close  to  the  right  of  the  road  ; 
it  is  denominated  uKpolgowra  "  the  wind-hole,"  from  a  violent  and  cold 
wind  which  issues  from  it  with  a  roaring  noise.  The  wind  probably 
proceeds  from  the  communication  of  the  cavity  with  some  subterra- 
nean stream  in  the  bowels  of  the  mountain  ;  several  of  which  streams  J 
are  seen  in  different  parts  of  the  valley  issuing  from  the  rocks, 
and  mixing  their  lucid  waters  with  the  opaque  surface  of  the  Peneios. 
Strabo6  mentions  these  subterraneous  winds  in  Bceotia  and  Euboea; 
others  of  a  similar  kind  exist  at  Ceci,  near  Terni,  in  Italy.  A  short 
way  further  we  came  to  a  clear  and  cold  spring,  gushing  with  impe- 
tuosity from  beneath  the  roots  of  a  large  platanus :  it  immediately 
enters  the  Peneios,  from  whose  dusky  current  its  limpid  waters  may 
long  be  discriminated.     As  far  as  this  spot  the  vale  is  of  narrow  and 


1  Voyage  d'Anacharsis.  '  Dr.  Clarke's  Tour  to  Russia,  vol.  2. 

J  AH  Bey.  *  B.  11.  p.  53  >. 

*  They  are  noticed  by  iElian.  Var.  Hist.  b.  3.  c.  1.  6  B.  10.  p.  447. 


112  THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE. 

contracted  dimensions;  but  here  it  is  enlarged  into  a  greater  ex- 
panse. The  trees  Avhich  are  scattered  at  the  foot  of  Olympos  suffer 
che  eye  to  glance  with  delight  on  intervening  glades  of  lively  ver- 
dure, which  are  vividly  contrasted  with  the  sterile  rocks  and  dark 
precipices  that  form  the  prominent  features  of  the  vale.  The  banks 
of  the  river  are  in  many  places  embowered  by  platani  of  such  ample 
growth,  that  while  they  lave  their  pendant  branches  in  the  stream, 
they  form  so  dense  a  screen  as  almost  entirely  to  exclude  the  rays  of 
the  sun.  The  wild  olive,  the  laurel,1  the  oleander,  the  agnos,  various 
kinds  of  arbuti,  the  yellow  jasmine,  terebinth,  lentiscus,  and  rose- 
mary, with  the  myrtle  and  laburnum,  richly  decorate  the  margin  of 
the  river,  while  masses  of  aromatic  plants  and  flowers  exhale  their 
varied  perfumes  and  breathe  their  luscious  odours  through  the 
scented  air.  A  multiplicity  of  oaks,  of  firs,1  and  of  other  forest 
trees,  are  seen  flourishing 3  in  a  higher  region  of  the  mountains.  The 
vale,  as  if  by  some  giant-pressure,  is  again  reduced  to  a  narrow  glen, 
and,  in  some  parts,  no  more  space  is  left  than  is  sufficient  for  the 
current  of  the  river,  above  which  Ossa  and  Olympos  shoot  up  in 
precipices  of  almost  perpendicular  ascent.  The  grandest  rock  that 
I  ever  beheld  is  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  valley,  where  it  raises  its 
gigantic  form  into  the  air,  impressing  the  beholder  with  surprise  and 
wonder.  Its  aspiring  summit  is  crowned  by  the  remains  of  an  an- 
cient fortress,4  of  Roman  construction :  a  marble  cornice,  which  had 
fallen  from  the  ruins,  was  lying  in  the  road.  Having  proceeded 
some  way  from  this  spot,  we  arrived  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
valley,    where   Ossa   and    Olympos    are    only    separated    by    the 


1  Daphne  was  said  to  be  the  daughter  of  Peneios,  because  the  laurel  abounded  on  its 
banks.  The  first  temple  which  was  erected  to  Apollo  at  Delphi  was  constructed  with  the 
laurel  of  Tempe.     Pausan.  b.  10.  c.  5. 

9  Seneca  gives  the  epithet  of  Pinifer  to  Olympos,  Agamem.  act.  2.  v.  338. 

1  The  plants  which  are  mentioned  by  Pliny  in  the  vale  of  Tempe,  are  the  Polypodion, 
Dolichos,  and  Serpyllum.     Nat.  Hist.  b.  16.  c.  44. 

*  At  present  named  Opajijf  h  xatfpo.    Several  ruins  in  Greece  have  this  name. 


THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE.  113 

Peneios.  The  ancient  road  is  here  judiciously  cut  in  the  rock;  and 
as  it  mounts,  resting  places  for  the  horses  feet  have  been  dexterously 
contrived  in  the  surface  of  the  stone,  which  would  otherwise  be 
slippery,  and  expose  the  traveller  to  the  danger  of  being  precipitated 
into  the  river.  The  rock  has  also  been  worn  by  the  ancient  marks 
of  wheels ;  and  there  is  just  room  for  two  carriages  to  pass  with 
ease,  as  the  breadth  occupied  by  the  carriages  of  the  ancients  was 
about  five  feet,  and  that  of  the  road  thirteen  feet.  This  was  for- 
merly one  of  the  fortified  parts  of  the  valley,  as  is  evident  by  the 
inscription  which  is  cut  in  the  face  of  a  rock,  rising  from  the  right 
hand  side  of  the  way. 

L.  CASSIUS  LONGIN 

PROCOS 
TEMPE  MVNIVIT. 

Longinus  was  sent  into  Thessaly  by  Julius  Caesar. '  It  is  likely 
that  he  repaired  the  forts  of  Tempe,  which  were  in  a  dilapidated 
state.  The  other  parts  of  the  slab,  on  which  is  the  proconsular 
inscription,  are  almost  covered  with  Greek  characters,  which  are 
generally  in  small  letters.  These  appear  to  be  proper  names, 
perhaps  those  of  the  officers  who  accompanied  Longinus;  they 
may  even  have  been  made  by  travellers,  who  have  rested  at  this 
spot.  They  can  only  be  discovered  by  a  very  close  inspection, 
and,  having  been  originally  slightly  scratched  on  the  stone,  are 
at  present  too  imperfect  to  be  intelligible.  Below  this  place, 
a  rivulet  issues  from  the  rock,  and  is  so  extremely  clear,  that, 
for  a  considerable  way,  it  disdains  to  mingle  its  blue  stream  with 
the  silvery  and  muddy  waters  of  the  Peneios ;  but  seems  to  glide 


1  "  L.  Cassium  Longinum  in  Tbessaliam  misit  Casar."  Caes.  Com.  de  bellocivili,  b.  3. 
and  Dion  Cassius  Hist.  Rom.  "  Nam  quo  tempore  Dyrrachium  obsessum  est,  eodem  L. 
Cassius  Longinus  ac  Cn.  Domitius  Calvinus,  qui  a  Caesare  in  Macedonian]  et  Thessaliam 
missi  fuerant." 

VOL.   II.  Q 


114  THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE. 

over  it  like  oil,  until  it  is  gradually  induced  to  assimilate  its  waters 
with  those  of  the  more  potent  stream. 

Proceeding  from  this  place,  Ave  soon  arrived  at  the  Macedonian1 
extremity  of  Tempe  ;  and,  through  the  glen  of  Ossa  and  Olympos, 
enjoyed  a  beautiful  perspective  of  the  rich  Pierian  plain,  that  was 
formerly  thronged  with  numerous  cities,  and  an  animated  popula- 
tion ;  but  at  present  it  is  a  solitude  of  fields  and  trees. 

The  Peneios  is  descried,  issuing  from  its  contracted  bed,  and 
rolling  forward  in  a  sinuous,  but  more  expanded  stream,  to  the 
Macedonic,  orThermaic,  Gulf;  on  the  northern  extremity  of  which, 
the  hills  of  the  fertile1  Pellenian  peninsula,  and  the  Kanastraean 
promontory,  are  faintly  seen.  A  bridge'  of  nine  arches,  under 
which  the  Peneios  flows,  is  distinguished  in  the  plain. 

According  to  Livy4  and  Pliny,5  the  length  of  Tempe,  that  is,  the 
angustia,  or  narrow  part,  was  five  miles;  JElian6  says  forty  stadia. 
According  to  Suidas,7  the  word  Te^^nj  was  applicable  to  all  moun- 
tains and  woody  glens ;  but  particularly  so  to  that  between  Ossa  and 
Olympos.  It  is  at  present  called  T^atu,rag,  an  evident  derivation 
from  its  ancient  name.  It  is  denominated  Lykostomion  by  the 
Byzantine  historians ;  and  Cantacuzene3  mentions  a  small  town  of 
the  same  name  in  the  vicinity,  which  he  styles  Avzoo-roptov  toXv^iov. 
The  ancients  imagined,  and  perhaps  with  reason,  that  it  had  been 
formed  by  an  earthquake;9  and  that  Neptune10  provided  an  outlet 
for  the  river,  by  striking  the  mountains  with  his  trident. 


1  Macedonia  begins  at  the  very  outlet  of  Tempe.     Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  442. 

e  Livy,  b.  45.  c.  30. 

3  It  was  destroyed  by  an  inundation  of  the  river  some  years  after  I  quitted  Greece. 

*  B.  44.  c.  6.  5  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  8.  6  Var.  Hist.  b.  3.  c.  I. 

7  Lexic.  vol.  3.  p.  446.  v.  Te^ra-Ea.     See  also  Hesych.  Lexic.  vol.  2.  p.  1364. 

8  Hist.  b.  2.  c.  28.  p.  2S8.  and  b.  4.  c.  19.  p.  779,  Paris  Edit. 

9  Herodot.  b.7.  c.  129.  Strabo,  b.  9.  LucanPharsal.b.  6.  Seneca  quaest.  nat.,  b.  6.  jElian 
Var.  Hist.  b.  3.  Claudian  de  Rapta  Proserp.  This  event  is  conjectured  lo  have  happened 
about  1S85  years  B.  C. 

10  All  earthquakes  were  attributed  to  Neptune  by  the  ancients,  who,  for  that  reason,  gave 
him  the  epithets  of  Evoviyjlujv,  Eyoo-iyato;,  &c. 


■^-1 


5 


THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE.  115 

According  to  Diodorus1  and  Seneca2,  it  was  Hercules,  who  con- 
trived an  outlet  for  the  Peneios,  and  drained  the  Pelasgic  plain  :  the 
river  having  been,  until  that  time,  the  principal  supply  of  the  Thes- 
salian  Sea,  which  is  now  confined  to  the  narrow  compass  of  the  Lakes 
of  Boebeis  and  Neso. 

Herodotus3  informs  us  that  Xerxes,  when  at  Thermae,  observing 
the  great  height  of  Olympos  and  Ossa,  and  hearing  that  there  was  a 
glen  between  them,  through  which  the  Peneios  flowed,  was  desirous 
of  sailing  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the 
spot.  Upon  his  arrival,  he  inquired  if  the  course  of  the  river  could 
not  be  changed  ;  and,  when  he  was  told  that  it  was  impracticable, 
he  said,  the  Thessalians  have  done  well  to  be  my  friends ;  for,  by 
blocking  up  the  outlet,  I  might  inundate  the  whole  Thessalian  plain. 

The  best  ancient  descriptions  of  Tempe,  are  those  of  Livy5  Pliny, 
and  iElian  ;  that  of  the  former  author  is  so  circumstantial  and  pre- 
cise, that  I  give  it  at  full  length,  in  his  own  words: — "Sunt  enim 
Tempe,  saltus,  etiamsi  non  bello  fiat  infestus,  transitu  difficilis.  Nam 
praeter  angustias  per  quinque  millia,  qua.  exiguum  jumento  onusto 
iter  est,  rupes  utrinque  ita  abscissae  sunt,  ut  despici  vix  sinevertigine 
quadam  simul  oculorum  animique  possit.  Terret  et  sonitus,  et  alti- 
tudo,  per  mediam  vallem  fluentis  Penei  amnis.  Hie  locus,  tarn 
suapte  natura  infestus  per  quatuor  distantia  loca  praesidiis  regiis  in- 
sessus;  unum  in  primo  aditu  ad  Gonnum  erat;  alterum  Condylon, 
castello  inexpugnabile.  Tcrtium  circa  Lapathunta,  quern  Characa 
appellant ;  quartum  viae  ipsi,  qua  et  media  et  angustissima  vallis  est, 
impositum,  quam  decern  armatis  tueri  facilis  est."4 


1  B.  4.  c.  IS.  "  Here.  fur.  Act.  2.  v.  283.  et  seq.  3  B.  1.  c.  128. 

*  "  Tempe  forms  a  defile,  -which  it  is  difficult  to  pass,  even  when  it  is  not  occupied  by 
an  enemy.  In  the  narrow  part  of  the  gorge,  which  extends  for  five  miles,  the  path  is  only 
wide  enough  to  admit  a  loaded  horse ;  while  the  rocks  on  each  side  descend  in  such  a  per- 
pendicular line  that  the  beholder  becomes  giddy  at  the  sight.  The  terror  is  at  the  same  time 
increased  by  the  violent  roar  of  the  river  Peneios,  over  its  confined  bed  in  the  depths  below. 
This  situation,  which  is  so  strong  in  itself,  is  at  the  same  time  fortified  by  four  military  posts, 
that  are  placed  at  intervals.     One  is  at  Gonnos,  at  the  commencement  of  the  pass ;  another, 

Q2 


116  THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE. 

Of  the  four  fortified  places  in  Tempe,  two  only  can  now  be  identi- 
fied with  any  degree  of  certainty.  Gonnos,  which  is  the  first  that  Livy 
mentions,  as  being  "  in  primo  aditu,"  was  twenty  miles1  from  Larissa. 
The  entrance  of  the  valley  is  exactly  that  distance  from  the  Thessa- 
lian  capital ;  but  I  observed  no  ruins  in  that  spot.  The  next  was  the 
impregnable  castle  of  Condylon,  which  is  probably  indicated  by  the 
ruins  called  Oreas  Kastro,  situated  upon  the  perpendicular  pre- 
cipice soon  after  the  entrance  into  the  glen.  Lapithos,  or  Charax, 
is  unknown  to  me;  but  it  might  probably  be  found  by  examining 
the  rocks  above  the  vale.  The  fourth  fortification  was  on  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  the  way ;  no  doubt  at  the  place  where  the  pro- 
consular inscription  is  situated,  and  which,  from  the  strength  of  its 
position,  might  be  defended  by  ten  men  against  an  army. 

The  description  of  the  valley  of  Tempe,  which  has  been  given  by 
Pliny,  is  particularly  interesting,  as  he  has  feelingly  depicted  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  a  subject  generally  neglected 
by  ancient  authors.  "  Et,  ante  cunctos,  claritatePeneus,  ortusjuxta 
Gomphos;  interque  Ossam  et  Olympum  nemorosa  convalle  defluens 
quingentis  stadiis,  dimidio  ejus  spatio  navigabilis.  In  eo  cursu  Tempe 
vocantur,  quinque  millibus  passuum  longitudine.  Et  ferme  sesquiju- 
geri  latitudino,  ultra  visum  hominis  attollehtibus  se,  dextra  loevaque, 
convexis  jugis.  Intus,  sua  luce  vinridante  allabitur  Peneus,  viridis 
calculo,  amcenus  circa  ripes  gramine,  canorus  avium  concentu."* 


called  Kondylon,  forms  an  impregnable  fortress.  A  third  is  called  Charax.  The  fourth  is 
thrown  over  the  road  at  the  most  contracted  point  of  the  vale,  which  ten  soldiers  would  be 
sufficient  to  secure."     B.  44.  c.  6. 

1  B.  36.  c.  10. 

*  "The  Peneus,  which  rises  near  Gomphi,  is  transparent  above  all  other  streams.  It  flows 
between  Ossa  and  Olympos,  in  a  woody  valley,  for  500  stadia,  and  is  navigable  during  half 
of  that  way.  Five  miles  of  this  extent  are  called  Tempe,  where  the  usual  width  of  the  valley- 
is  about  half  a  jugcrum.  Abrupt  precipices  rise  on  each  side,  towering  aloft  into  the  air. 
Within  these  confines,  the  gliding  waters  of  the  Peneus  flash  with  an  emerald  light.  Its 
margin  is  covered  with  turf  of  a  delightful  verdure;  and  numerous  birds  warble  their  music 
upon  its  banks."     Nat.  Hist.  b.  *.  c.  8. 


THE  VALE  OF  TEMPE.  117 

The  account  of  iElian1  is  still  more  beautiful,  and  more  in 
unison  with  the  exquisite  beauty  of  the  spot  which  he  describes. 
But  as  the  original  is  too  diffuse  for  insertion,  the  reader  will  excuse 
me  for  presenting  it  to  him  in  an  English  version.  He  says,  that 
"  Tempe  is  between  Olympos  and  Ossa,  mountains  of  prodigious 
height,  separated  from  each  other  by  divine  agency.  The  interme- 
diate vale  is  forty  stadia  in  length,  and,  in  some  parts,  a  plethron  in 
breadth,  and  in  others  more.  The  Peneios  flows  through  the  vallej, 
and  is  engrossed  by  the  confluence  of  other  rivers.  This  place  is 
varied  with  many  beautiful  recesses  ;  not  the  works  of  art,  but  of 
spontaneous  nature,  whose  embellishments  appear  to  have  been  stu- 
diously lavished  on  this  favoured  spot;  for  copious  and  thick  ivy,2 
like  the  spreading  vine,  twines  up  the  highest  trees,  while  the  rocks 
are  shaded  by  abundant  verdure,1  refreshing  to  the  eye.  Within 
the  vale  are  many  forests  and  retired  spots  ;  which,  in  the  heat  of 
summer,  refresh  and  alleviate  the  wearied  traveller.  Frequent  rivu- 
lets and  springs,  of  the  best  and  coolest  water,  strengthen  those  who 
bathe  in  them.  The  birds,  on  all  sides,  sing  the  whole  day  long, 
with  the  sweetest  melody,  soothing  the  way-worn  stranger  as  he 
travels  through  the  vale.  On  each  side  of  the  river  are  sweet  and 
solitary  spots ;  the  slow  and  sluggish  Peneios  flows  through  the  vale 
as  smooth  as  oil.  The  thick  foliage  of  the  trees,  with  their  wide 
spreading  branches,  protect  from  the  fury  of  the  sun  those  who 
navigate  the  river.  The  neighbouring  people  here  assemble,  per- 
forming sacrifices,  and  indulging  in  conviviality;  and  the  traveller  is 
greeted  with  the  grateful  odour  of  frequent  victims." 


1  Var.  Hist.  b.  3.  c.  1.  2  Ki77o;. 

J  It  is  IjMkaZ  in  the  original,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  Yew ;  but,  as  this  tree  does  not 
grew  in  Thessaly,  I  have  substituted  the  general  term  of  verdure. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Return  to  Athens — Villages  of  Nikali  and  Enebelere — Plain,  town,  and  acropolis  of  Fharsalia 

Thaumakia — Magnificent  view  from  it — Zetoun — The  pass  of  Thermopylae,  and  passage 
over  Mount  Oeta — Doris — Ruins  of  two  cities — Lilsea,  and  sources  of  the  Cephissos — Town 

of  Dadi,  probably  Ampikleia — Remains  of  two  other  cities — Belitza  (Tithoraia) — Elateia 

Chaeroneia — Orchomenos — Haliartos — Onchestos — Thebes — Euripos  and  Chalcis  in  Eubcea 
— Situation  of  Aulis — Plain  of  Delion — Village  of  Boiati — Ruins  of  Oropos — Village  of  Ma- 
rathona — Plain  of  Marathon — Great  tumulus — Cave  of  Pan — Monastery  of  Pentele — Arrival 
at  Athens. 

TO  ENEBELERE. 

W  E  spent  two  days  at  the  Vale  of  Tempe,  passing  the  nights  at 
Ampelakia.  We  made  several  drawings,  and  certainly  no  part  of 
Greece  affords  so  much  grandeur  of  line,  or  so  many  exquisite  com- 
binations of  the  sublime  and  picturesque.  We  were  desirous  of 
proceeding  through  Macedon  to  see  some  celebrated  places  on  the 
Thermaic  Gulf,  and  to  visit  Mount  Athos  and  its  aerial  monasteries ; 
but  our  much  dreaded  enemy,  the  heat,  was  daily  increasing,  and 
we  thought  it  prudent  to  return  towards  Athens  while  the  travelling 
was  yet  practicable,  and  to  repose  during  the  hotter  months.  We 
accordingly  quitted  Ampelakia  on  the  6th,  and  went  to  the  left  of 
our  former  road,  keeping  the  village  of  Baba  on  our  right.  Having 
passed  over  the  barren  foot  of  Ossa,  we  crossed  several  small 
streams  which  issue  from  it,  and  observed  some  verdant  spots, 
where  the  refreshing  waters  of  the  fountain  sparkled  beneath  the 
cooling  shade  of  the  platanus.  Larissa  appeared  upon  our  right. 
During  the  hottest  part  of  the  day  we  reposed  at  the  village  of 
Nikali,  from  which  we  took  a  view  of  the  Thessalian  plain  and 
capital,  and  inspected  the  costumes  of  the  peasantry,  with  their  im- 


PLAIN  OF  PHARSALIA.  119 

plements  of  husbandry.  This  place  is  five  hours  and  a  quarter 
from  Ampelakia.  In  the  afternoon  we  proceeded  two  hours  and 
thirty-eight  minutes  further  to  the  Turkish  village  of  Enebelere, 
where  we  passed  the  night. 


TO  PHARSALIA. 

The  next  morning,  the  7th,  we  continued  our  journey,  crossed  a 
bridge  over  a  small  stream,  and  went  by  the  foot  of  an  insulated 
hill  with  a  small  marsh,  and  a  few  mulberry  trees  near  its  base. 
These  were  the  first  trees  we  had  seen  for  several  miles ;  the  greater 
part  of  the  plain  on  this  side  of  Larissa  offers  no  objects  either  pic- 
turesque or  interesting.  It  is  generally  rich  in  corn.  The  uncul- 
tivated parts  are  covered  with  thistles. 

We  passed  by  a  fountain,  and  observed  to  our  right  a  village 
named  Sarliki.  An  hour  and  forty  minutes  beyond  which  we 
passed  near  a  large  Turkish  burying-ground,  and  a  village  called 
Karademelki.  About  an  hour  from  this  place  we  had  the  first  view 
of  Pharsalia  and  its  memorable  plain,  which  is  in  a  manner  se- 
parated from  the  great  plain  of  Larissa  by  some  low  ridges  and  un- 
dulating hills.  We  passed  by  some  villages  and  fountains,  and 
crossed  a  large  bridge  of  several  arches  over  a  river  which  is  pro- 
bably the  Onchestos.  Forty  minutes  further  we  crossed  a  bridge 
over  another  river  of  smaller  size,  probably  the  Enipeus  or  Api- 
danos,  which  unite  their  streams  before  they  enter  the  Peneios. " 

'  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  356,  and  b.  9,  p.  432. 


120  RUINS  OF  PHARSALIA. 

The  principal  fury  of  the  battle  between  Julius  Caesar  and 
Pompey  took  place  in  the  intermediate  plain  which  is  between  the 
river  and  the  town;1  but,  far  more  interesting  than  this  struggle  for 
the  ascendant  between  two  ambitious  Romans,  was  the  memorable 
battle  which  Pelopidas  fought  near  this  spot  against  the  Pheraean 
tyrant  Alexander,  for  the  destruction  of  tyranny.1  Ten  minutes  more 
brought  us  to  Pharsalia,  which  is  fourteen  hours  from  Ampelakia. 

This  town,  which  is  at  present  called  Pharsala  by  the  Greeks,  and 
Salalgik  by  the  Turks,  is  situated  at  the  northern  foot  of  its  acro- 
polis. It  is  a  populous '  and  commercial  place.  The  Turks  have 
here  four  mosques,  and  the  Greeks  a  bishop,  suffragan  of  the  arch- 
bishop of  Larissa.  There  is  also  a  clock-tower  and  a  keoschk, 
beautifully  situated  in  a  clear  pool  of  water  formed  by  a  copious 
spring.  It  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  Hyperian  fountain  at 
Phcrai,  and  is  screened  by  some  large  platani  from  the  torrid  rays 
of  the  meridian  sun.  We  regretted  that  the  busy  intrusion  and 
suspicious  inquietude  of  the  Turks  would  not  suffer  us  to  make  a 
drawing  of  a  spot  which  is  so  singularly  picturesque. 

We  ascended  the  hill,  which  is  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  acropolis.  It  is  extremely  steep,  and  must  have  been  a 
place  of  great  strength. 

The  walls,  which  in  some  places  are  well  preserved,  are  fifteen 
feet  and  a  half  in  thickness,  which  is  double  that  of  most  of  the 
walls  in  Greece,  the  common  thickness  being  seven  or  eight  feet. 
They  are  constructed  sometimes  with  a  single  row  of  blocks,  but 
more  generally  with  a  double  row  united,  without  any  space  in 
the  middle.  Those  of  Pharsalia,  and  other  places  where  they  are  of 
an  unusual  thickness,  are  lined  on  both  sides  with  large  blocks,  while 
the  interstices  are  filled  up  with  smaller  stones,  and  earth,  or  mortar, 


1  Plutarch  in  his  life  of  Pompey  says,  that  Caesar's  army  was  22,000  strong,  and  that 
Pompey  had  more  than  double  that  force.  See  Lucan's  Pharsal.  and  Appiande  bellis  Civil. 
b.  2.  p.  247. 

•  See  Plutarch's  life  of  Pelopidas.  '  It  contains  about  3500  inhabitants. 


RUINS  OF  PHARSALIA.  121 

the  emplecton  of  Vitruvius.  The  acropolis  appears  to  have  had  two 
gates,  of  which  that  towards  the  town  is  quite  destroyed ;  the  other 
on  the  opposite  side  is  Avithout  its  lintel.  The  walls  are  in  the  third 
and  fourth  styles.  Within  the  acropolis  is  a  large  circular  cavity  in 
the  ground,  apparently  the  remains  of  a  treasury,  resembling  those  of 
Mycenae  and  Orchomenos.  The  acropolis  overlooks  towards  the 
north  the  wide  expanse  of  the  Thessalian  plain,  bounded  by  its 
lofty  mountains.  On  the  southern  side  it  rises  abruptly  from  a 
valley  of  smaller  dimensions,  which  is  closed  by  a  branch  of  Mount 
Othrys.  Strabo  mentions  two  Pharsalia?,  the  old  and  the  new. ' 
The  former  was  on  the  hill  which  afterwards  became  the  acropolis 
to  the  new  city,  which  was  in  the  plain  where  the  present  town 
is  situated.     Livy  *  calls  the  former  Palaepharsalus. 

We  were  offered  some  ancient  coins  of  Pharsalia,  which  are  already 
known  and  published;  their  different  types  are  a  man  on  horseback, 
the  head  of  Minerva,  and  a  horse's  head.  Some  have  the  full  in- 
scription <£AP2AAinN. 


TO  THAUMAKIA.' 


We  quitted  this  place  on  the  6th,  and  in  half  an  hour  came  to 
some  ancient  foundations  near  a  stream  and  fountain,  and  about  50 
minutes  further  crossed  two  other  streams,  one  of  which  is  furnished 
with  a  bridge,  a  sign  that  it  is  copious  in  winter. 

Numerous  flocks  of  sheep  are  seen  in  most  parts  of  the  Thessalian 


"  B.  9.  p.  431.  .  B.  44.  c.  I.  '  e«8p«xq.— Homer. 

VOL.  II.  Ii 


122  RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 

plain.  It  also  pastures  large  herds  of  cattle,  whose  sleek  appear- 
ance bears  testimony  to  the  rich  luxuriance  of  the  grass.  Extensive 
sheds  that  are  called  mandra  are  scattered  over  the  plain,  in  order 
to  afford  a  shelter  to  the  flocks  and  herds  from  the  powerful  rays  of 
the  meridian  sun ;  and  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day  they  regularly 
retire  to  those  cooling  shades,  and  take  their  sieste  like  the  Italians. 

Having  proceeded  two  hours  and  ten  minutes  from  Pharsalia,  we 
reached  the  base  of  a  hill  that  projects  into  the  plain,  which  we 
ascended  in  order  to  examine  the  ruins  of  a  city  with  which  it  is 
crowned.  The  walls  are  in  the  third  style  of  construction,  in  high 
preservation,  and  fortified  by  square  projecting  towers.  The  stones 
are  of  large  dimensions ;  the  ruins  occupy  three  knolls  of  the  hill, 
and  the  situation  is  strono-  and  commanding. 

There  were  anciently  several  cities  and  castles '  in  the  vicinity  of 
Pharsalia  andThaumakia,  particularly  Melitaia,  Proerna,Eretria,  Nar- 
thakion,  and  the  Thetideion,  or  Temple  of  Thetis.2  We  proceeded, 
and  passed  by  two  fountains  and  a  well  near  a  small  mosque,  which 
is  situated  on  a  moderate  elevation  to  the  left  of  the  road.  We  went 
through  a  large  Turkish  burying-ground,  crossed  a  stream,  and 
passed  to  the  left  of  a  rocky  insulated  hill.  In  the  Pharsalian  plain 
there  was  a  place  named  Kwog  Ks(paXa,i  "  the  dogs  heads,"  which  were 
two  steep  hills  opposite  each  other.  Alexander  of  Pherai,  and  Pelo- 
pidas,  both  endeavoured  to  obtain  possession  of  these  hills  during  the 
battle  in  which  the  latter  lost  his  life.  It  is  probable  that  these  are 
the  two  hills  alluded  to,  as  there  are  no  others  in  this  vicinity  which 
answer  their  description.  The  rest  of  the  Pharsalian  plain  is  a  per- 
fect flat. 

On  quitting  this  place  we  crossed  two  streams,  and  ascended  to 
the  town  of  Thaumakia,  at  present  called  Thaumakos.  It  is  about 
five  hours  from  Pharsalia,  with  a  mixed  population  of  Greeks  and 
Turks,  the  former  of  whom  have  a  bishop.     The  town  is  situated 


1   Polyb.  b.  17.  p.  156.     Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  434.  and  b.  10.  p.  4*7.      Plutarch's  Agesilaos. 
*  See  Euiipid.  Andromache,  v.  20 — 43. 


THAUMAKIA.  123 

on  the  side  of  a  hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  was  the  ancient  acro- 
polis, of  which  there  are  some  few  remains  constructed  in  the  third 
style :  the  superstructures  appear  to  owe  their  origin  to  the  lower 
ages.  The  position  is  strong,  and  it  must  at  all  times  have  been  a 
place  of  importance.1 

The  view  from  this  place  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  and  ex- 
tensive I  ever  beheld !  The  eye  roams  with  delight  over  the  rich 
verdure  of  the  Thessalian  plain,  dotted  with  habitations  and  villages, 
or  variegated  with  the  beauties  of  cultivation,  and  throwing  out  its 
luxuriant  surface  to  the  sterile  rocks  of  Ossa  and  Olympos,  which 
are  faintly  distinguished  in  the  receding  distance.  The  description 
which  Livy  has  left  us  of  this  captivating  locality,  ought  not  to  be 
omitted.  He  says,  "  Thaumaci,  a  Pylis  sinuque  Maliaco,  per 
Lamiam  eunti,  loco  alto  siti  sunt,  ipsis  faucibus  imminentes  quas 
Coela  vocant :  Thessaliaeque  transeunti  confragosa  loca,  implicatas- 
que  flexibus  vallium  vias,  ubi  ventum  ad  hanc  urbem  est,  repente 
velut  maris  vasti  sic  immensa  panditur  planities,  ut  subjectos  cam- 
pos  terminare  oculis  haud  facile  queas ;  ab  eo  miraculo  Thaumaci 
appellati."2 

It  would  appear  from  Homer,  that  at  the  time  of  the  Trojan  war, 
Thaumakia,  Meliboia,  Methone,  and  Olizon,  formed  one  state,  and 
provided  seven  ships,  which  were  commanded  by  Philoctetes,  son  of 
Poeas, 3  and  grandson  of  Thaumakos. 

We  found  three  inscriptions  at  this  place  which  contained  the 
name  of  the  city.     Two  of  them   are  on   the  same  block.     They 


1  Livy,  b.  32.  c.  4. 

2  B.  32.  c.  4.  As  you  pass  through  Lamia  from  Pylae  and  the  bay  of  Malea,  Thau- 
maci occupies  a  lofty  site,  impending  over  the  gorge  which  is  called  Coela.  After  travers- 
ing the  rocky  part  of  Thessaly  and  the  road  which  runs  through  a  labyrinth  of  glens,  you  no 
sooner  arrive  at  this  city  than  au  immense  plain  is  rolled  before  the  eye,  and  to  such  an  extent 
that  the  straining  vision  can  hardly  reach  the  distant  boundary.  Hence  it  is  called  Thau- 
maci." 

*  Iliad,  2.  v.  716. 

E  2 


124  THAUMAKIA. 

are  decrees  in  favour  of  three  persons  who  are  admitted  as  guests 
of  the  city,  and  are  allowed  to  enjoy  the  rights  of  citizenship. 
The  first  is  in  favour  of  Makonios,  son  of  Phalion,  of  Larissa ; 
the  second  for  Agestos,  son  of  Agrolion,  ofEamos;  the  third  for 
Surromaigros,  of  Herakleia. 

Decree  for  Makonios. 

ArAeAITTXAinOAIZeATMAKONEAOKEMA 

KONIOI$AAI0N02AAPI2AmiONTIETEPrET 

AATTAsnPOHENIANKAinOAITElANEniNOMI 

ANASrAIANASSAAEIANENKTHZINATEA 

EIANnANTflNKAinOAEMOTKAIEIPANASEni 

TONAnANTAXPONONKAIATTOIKAIEKrONOIS 

KAIOSATOlXAAAOIXriPOHENOISKAIETEPr 

ETAISAIAnSAnANTAAPXONTHNNEniMENE 

OSAAIOTANIKOMAXOTENrrOZTASriPOEE 

NIA2*IAHM0NANTin0N0T 


Decree  for  Agestos. 

ArA0AITTXAinOAI20ArMAKXiN 
EAr2KEArE2TIiIArP0AEnN02 
EAMIEinPOSENIANEniNOMI 
ANA2TAIANAX#AAEIANENKTH 
2INATEAEIANnANTaNKAm0AE 
MOTKAIEIPANASEnlTONAnANTA 
XPONONKAIATTniKAIEKrONOISKAI 
OSATOISAAAOIXnPOSENOISnAN 
TAAPXONTHNS^OAPIAAEXiSnAA 
*ANAENrrOXTASrPOSENEIA2 
nOATMNIAZTOIS 

Decree  for  Surromaigros. 

ArA0AITTXAinOAI20ATMAKnNEAnKESTPP 
OMAirPillHPAXAEiaTAIONTIETEPrETAATT 

AinPOHENIANISOnOAHTEIANEniNOMIANA 
ZTAIANA2*AAEIANENKTH^INATEAEIAN 
IIANTriNKAinOAEMOTKAIEIPANASKAIATTfiKAI 
EKrONOIIEniTONAnANTAXPONONKAlOSA 
TOIZAAAOISrPOHENOISnANTAAPXONTilN 

AIEIPAKOTNIKOMAXOTENrTOSTAS 
nPOSENIAZNEOnTOAEMOSETH0IAOT 


LAKE  NESO,  125 


TO  ZETOUN. 

On  the  9th  we  proceeded  towards  Zetoun.  A  short  way  out  of 
the  town  we  saw  a  plentiful  fountain,  and  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
tower.  Further  on  we  passed  by  two  other  fountains,  one  of  which 
forms  a  small  stream  running  towards- Thaumakia.  Having  passed  a 
gap  between  some  small  eminences,  the  view  opened  into  another 
plain  in  which  Lake  Neso  was  visible,  encircled  by  green  and 
wooded  hills.  It  is  at  present  named  Daukli,  and  abounds  in  fish. 
Some  villages,  with  the  monastery  of  Saint  Athanasius,  were  seen 
upon  its  banks.  This  lake,  and  Boebeis,  are,  according  to  Strabo, 
the  remains  of  the  Thessalian  Sea  which  inundated  all  the  flat 
country  until  the  separation  of  Ossa  and  Olympos  provided  it  with 
a  vent  by  the  Peneios.  Strabo  asserts  that  Thessaly  was  once  called 
Nesonis,  from  Neson,  son  of  Thessalos,  and  grandson  of  Haimon. 
It  would  appear  that  it  changed  its  name  from  father  to  son,  and 
in  the  course  of  one  century  was  called  Haimonia,  Thessalia,  and 
Nesonis. 

In  descending  to  the  plain  of  Neso  we  crossed  several  streams 
which  discharge  themselves  into  the  lake.  We  ascended  gently 
from  this  place,  and  after  crossing  several  rivulets,  passed  by  a 
derbeni  or  custom-house  shaded  with  platani.  Having  ascended  for 
some  time,  we  reached  the  top  of  a  ridge  of  hills,  part  of  the  chain 
of  Othrys,  and  looked  into  the  plain  of  Melis,  surrounded  by  the 
Trachinian  rocks.  We  paused  for  some  time  to  admire  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  prospect,  and  then  began  to  descend,  and  soon  after- 
wards had  a  view  of  Zetoun,  the  Maliac  Gulf,  and  the  pass  of 
Thermopylae.  After  a  further  descent  we  passed  near  a  village 
called  Daratza,  and  arrived  at  Zetoun,  which  is  about  seven  hours 
from  Thaumakia. 


126  MOUNT  OETA. 


TO  MOUNT  OETA  AND  DORIS. 

The  next  morning,  the  10th,  we  crossed  the  plain  of  Melis,  and 
in  two  hours  reached  the  khan  near  the  pass  of  Thermopylae ;  in 
twenty  minutes  from  which  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Oeta, 
and  began  to  ascend,  and  in  fifty-three  minutes  more  came  to  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  fortress  called  Muntzmeno :  we  soon  after 
stopped  at  a  cold  spring  to  quench  our  thirst,  which  had  been  ren- 
dered intense  by  the  heat  of  the  weather,  and  the  difficulty  of  the 
road.  We  next  passed  through  a  village,  named  Gamastri,  the 
situation  of  which  was  highly  picturesque.  The  cottages,  which 
were  thatched,  were  embowered  in  a  forest  of  platani  and  oaks,  em- 
bellished with  a  profusion  of  flowering  shrubs,  and  where  apples  and 
almond-trees,  pomegranates  and  figs,  exhibited  their  luscious  stores. 
The  whole  formed  a  garden  that  was  watered  by  a  rapid  and  pel- 
lucid stream,  and  was  altogether  as  beautiful  a  scene  as  the  imagina- 
tion can  conceive.  Continuing  our  journey  for  some  time  through 
this  fairy  land,  and  still  ascending,  we  entered  a  forest  of  firs,  and 
arrived  at  a  village  called  Neuropoli,  situated  in  a  small  circular 
vale  on  one  of  the  summits  of  the  mountain,  and  resembling  the 
extinct  crater  of  an  ancient  volcano.  The  vale  was  green  with  corn, 
which  was  so  backward  that  the  ears  were  not  yet  visible :  on  the 
sides  of  the  surrounding  hills  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  were  browz- 
ing  on  abundant  pastures.  I  much  regret  my  having  omitted  to 
examine  the  summits  of  Mount  Oeta,  as  the  origin  of  the  story  of 
Hercules  on  the  burning  pile  might  possibly  be  discovered.  This 
origin  I  conceive  to  have  been  a  volcano  at  some  very  remote  period, 
of  which  the  ancient  inhabitants  having  a  confused  and  uncertain 
tradition,  invented  the  fable  of  Deianira's  tunic.  Hercules,  while 
writhing  under  his  torments,  hurled  Lichas  into  the  Maliac  Gulf, 


MOUNT  OETA.  127 

where  he  was  metamorphosed  into  a  rock,  which  from  that  circum- 
stance was  denominated  Lichades. 

P;w7e<   vgog   uf/rfizXvffTov   ex,  irovlov  ftelgc&v.1 


terque  quaterque  rotatum  2 


Mitlit  in  Euboicas,  tormento  fortius,  undas  : 

Ille  per  aerias  pendens  induruit  auras. 

*******  * 

Nuuc  quoque  in  Euboico  scopulus  brevis  einicat  alte 
Gurgite,  et  humanae  servat  vestigia  formas 
Quem,  quasi  sensuruin,  nautaj  calcare  verentur, 
Appellantque  Lichan." 

It  would  appear  that  this  story  was  merely  a  poetical  description 
of  an  eruption  of  stones  from  the  crater  of  a  volcano.  The  Lichades, 
however,  are  too  large  to  have  been  ejected  from  Oeta,  but  may 
very  possibly  owe  their  origin  to  one  of  those  submarine  volcanoes 
which  have  at  all  times  been  common  in  Greece ;  as  we  know  by 
the  testimony  of  ancient  authors,3  as  well  as  by  the  light  of  actual 
observation.  It  is  certain  that  Greece,  at  least  the  insular  part  of 
it,  was,  at  one  period,  not  less  subject  to-  volcanos  than  Italy. 
The  islands  of  Crete,  Hydrea,  Calauria,  Lemnos,  Cythera,  Melos, 


1  Sophoc.  Trachin.  v.  793. 
2  Ovid.  Metam.  b.  9.  v.  217. 

He  toss'd  him  o'er  his  head  with  airy  course, 
And  hurl'd  with  more  than  with  an  engine's  force ; 
Far  o'er  the  Eubcean  main  aloof  he  flies, 
And  hardens  by  degrees  amid  the  skies,  &c. 


transform'd  to  stone 


In  ancient  days  the  craggy  flint  was  known; 

Still  in  the  Eubcean  waves  his  front  he  rears, 

Still  the  small  rock  in  human  form  appears, 

And  still  the  name  of  hapless  Lichas  bears. 
3  See  Apollon.   Rhod.  b.  4.  v.  1757,  about  the  island  of  Kalliste  or  Thera :  and  about 
earthquakes  and  volcanos  in  Greece,  the  appearance  of  new  islands,  and  the  disappearance 
of  old  ones,  see  Livy,  Strabo,  Seneca,  Pliny,  Justin,  Pausanias,  Ammianus  Marcellinus, 
Cassiodorus,  Nicephorus,  Theophanes,  and  others. 


128  MOUNT  OETA. 

Thera,  and  several  others,  are  volcanic,  besides  the  promontory  of 
Methana  in  Argolis.     Strabo '  gives  a  detailed  and  interesting  ac- 
count of  the  changes  which  happened  at  different  periods  in  Greece, 
where  several  islands  disappeared,  and  others  rose  from  the  sea ; 
where  rivers  changed  their  course,  or  totally  failed.     I  imagine  that 
if  even  the  Thessalian  Olympos  were  examined,  it  would  be  found, 
in  some  parts,  to  be  composed  of  volcanic  matter,  and  that  HesiodV 
account  of  the  war  between  Jupiter  and  the  Titans,  and  the  burning 
Olympos,  is  a  symbolical  description  of  the  warring  elements.     Ju- 
piter's triumph  over  Typhoeos  appears,  in  all  respects,  to  charac- 
terise  the   horrors   of  a  volcano.     This  volcano  is  personified   by 
the  giant  Typhosus,  who  is  represented  as  having  a  hundred  heads 
vomiting  fire !    A  hundred  is  here  put  indefinitely  for  a  great  many, 
and   not  for  any   particular   number.     Olympos   has    many    sum- 
mits, and  is   hence  called  <xokvh<x,iga.<z   by  the  poets.     These  heads 
were  probably  thrown  up  by  volcanos ;  and  his  sons  Geryon,  Cer- 
berus, and  Orthos,  were  other  smaller  volcanos,  on,  or  near  Olympos.' 
Seneca4  gives  the  epithet  of  ignifer  to  Olympos.     Some  authors  will 
have  it  that  Typhoeos  was  put  under  iEtna;  others  say  under  Ina- 
rime;s  both  of  which  were  always  celebrated  for  their  volcanic  fires. 
It  is   also  said  that  the  river  Dyras  first  made  its  appearance  in 
order  to  assist  Hercules,  and  to  extinguish  the  fire  which  was  burn- 
ing upon  Oeta.    Nothing  is  more  common  in  volcanic  countries  than 
the  appearance  of  new  rivers,  and  the  disappearance  of  old  ones, 
which  frequently  takes  place  during  great  eruptions.     It  would  be 
an  object  Avorthy  the  research  of  future  travellers  to  examine  in 
detail  the  mountains  of  Oeta  and  Olympos,  and  the  island  of  Lichas 
in  the  Maliac  Gulf.     Volcanos  may  still  exist  in  the  impenetrable 
bowels  of  these  mountains,  which,  like  those  of  iEtna  and  Vesuvius, 


'  B.  1.  *  Deor.  Generat.  v.  673,  &c. 

1  The  smaller  volcanos  which  have  issued  from  the  sides  of  ./Etna,  are  at  this  day  called 
the  sons  of  /Etna.  *  Hippolytus,  act.  3.  v.  96(>. 

5  The  island  of  Ischia,  in  the  Bay  of  Naples. 


ANCIENT  DIVISIONS  OF  THESSALY.  129 

after  many  centuries  of  repose,  may,  at  some  future  period,  burst 
forth  with  their  original  violence. 

Before  I  take  my  final  leave  of  Thessaly,  it  is  necessary  to  notice 
the  great  uncertainty  which  now  exists  concerning  its  ancient  divi- 
sions, subdivisions,  and  boundaries.  Strabo,1  indeed,  treats  this  sub- 
ject in  considerable  detail,  and  endeavours  to  reconcile  the  topo- 
graphy of  various  places  with  the  passages  in  which  they  are  men- 
tioned by  Homer.  A  good  deal  of  confusion  is,  however,  evident  in 
this  part  of  the  geographer's  work  ;  and,  unfortunately,  we  have  no 
account  of  Pausanias  to  rectify  his  errors,  or  to  supply  his  omis- 
sions. The  natural  bulwarks  which  encircle  the  rich  Thessalian 
plains  are  the  mountains  and  chains  of  Oeta,  Pindos,  Othrys, 
Olympos,  Ossa,  and  Pelion,  all  of  which  are  of  grand  dimensions, 
and  of  imposing  altitude.  They  are  amply  diversified  by  forests, 
fountains,  and  streams ;  by  deep  recesses,  wild  glens,  verdant  glades, 
and  luxuriant  pastures,  with  all  the  attractions  of  the  picturesque. 
The  inhabitants,  who  live  in  scattered  villages,  are  chiefly  herdsmen, 
whose  wants  are  almost  spontaneously  supplied  by  the  fertility  of 
the  soil,  and  the  genial  temperature  of  the  climate.  Many  subordi- 
nate valleys  are  formed  by  the  numerous  ramifications  of  the  great 
Thessalian  mountains.  Innumerable  rivers  descend  from  these 
towering  heights ;  and  though  some  of  them,  particularly  the  Pe- 
neios,  have  a  course  of  considerable  length,  most  of  them  are  small, 
slow,  and  muddy :  many  of  them  unite  with  the  Peneios,  which, 
towards  Larissa,  assumes  the  appearance  of  a  respectable  river. 

Thessaly  was  formerly  very  populous,  and  was  adorned  with  nu- 
merous and  wealthy  cities.  J  Its  mountains  and  passes  were  defended 
by  strong  castles,  and  the  excellence  of  its  ports  was  favourable  to 
the  acquisition  of  maritime  power,  and  to  the  prosecution  of  an  ex- 
tensive commerce. 


1  B.  9. 
*  The  coins  of  nineteen  Thessalian  cities  have  been  found,  besides  six  of  districts,  not 
including  the  islands  on  its  coast.     See  Eckhel  and  Mionnet. 

VOL.  II.  S 


ISO  DORIS.    DRYOPIS. 

Strabo'  divides  Thessaly  into  four  parts, — Phthiotis,  Estiaiotisy 
Thessaliotis,  and  Pelasgiotis,  and  observes  that  Homer  divides  it 
into  ten  parts  or  dynasties ;  but  that  so  many  changes  had  taken 
place  in  the  course  of  time,  that  great  confusion  and  uncertainty 
had  arisen  respecting  the  precise  situations  of  the  districts  and 
cities,  at  which  that  poet  has  glanced  in  his  immortal  verse. 

After  having  ascended  three  hours  from  the  foot  of  Oeta,  we  reached 
one  of  its  ridges,  and  had  a  view  into  the  beautiful  plain  of  Doris, 
bounded  on  its  southern  side  by  the  magnificent  Parnassos,  which 
rises  majestically  with  its  multiform  summits,  covered  with  snow,  and 
its  sides  deep-trenched  by  the  glens  and  gullies  that  have  been  worn 
by  the  winter  torrents.    This  side  of  Parnassos  is  much  better  supplied 
with  forests  than  that  towards  the  south.     It  would  appear  from 
Herodotus,1  that  the  Dorians,  who  originally  inhabited  near  Ossa 
and  Olympos,  having  been  expelled  that  country  by  the  Kadmaeans, 
settled  at  Makednon,  near  Mount  Pindos,  whence  they  migrated  to 
Dryopis ;   which,  on  that  occasion,  assumed  the  name  of  Doris. 
Pausanias,'  however,  seems  to  make  a  distinction  between  these 
people,  and  says  that  the  Dorians  lived  on  Oeta,  and  the  Dryopes 
on  Parnassos.     After  the  Dorians  had  established  themselves  in  the 
Peloponnesos,  their  territory  at  the  foot  of  Oeta  was  probably  com- 
prised in  Phocis,  which  took  its  name  from  Phocus,  the  son  of  Orny- 
tion.     Strabo4  and  Pausaniass  place  Lilaea  in  Phocis,  which  was 
originally6  in  Doris.     One  of  the  names  of  Doris  was  Tetrapolis/ 
from  its  four  cities,  Pindos,  Erinion,  Boion,  and  Kutinion.     There 
were  also  three  other  towns  in  this  territory,  Liloea,  Karphe,  and 
Dryope ;  but  some  imagine  the  latter  to  be  the  same  as  Pindos,  leaving 
six  cities  in  Doris,  for  which  reason,  according  to  Tzetzes,8  it  was 
sometimes  denominated  Hexapolis.   Livy 9  places,  in  Doris,  the  towns 


1  B.  9.  p.  430.  *  B.  I.e.  56.  »  B.  5.  c.  1. 

*  B.  9.  p.  407.  '  B.  9.  c.  24.  6  Ptolemy,  p.  67- 

T  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  417.  a  Ad  Lycophrou.  »  B.  28.  c.  7. 


DORIS.  131 

of  Tritonon'  and  Drymae,  which  he  calls  "  parva,  atque  ignobilia 
oppida."  Pliny2  says  there  was  a  town  in  Doris  named  Sperchios; 
this  is  probably  an  error.  Parsons1  asserts  that  the  Dorians  took 
their  name  from  their  mountainous  situation  £'  Ogos,  and  not  from 
the  son  of  Deucalion.  If  this  opinion  be  admitted,  we  may,  by 
analogy,  conjecture  that  the  Dryopes  were  so  named,  not  from  the 
son  of  Arkados,  but  from  the  forests  of  oaks4  which  at  all  times 
abounded  upon  Oeta. 

Having,  from  the  ridge  of  the  mountain,  contemplated  the  beauti- 
ful country  of  Doris,  we  proceeded  towards  its  fertile  plain,  and 
began  to  descend  the  rugged  and  woody  side  of  Oeta.  After  tra- 
velling for  an  hour  through  a  magnificent  mixture  of  ancient  forests 
and  steep  precipices,  we  reached  a  village,  called  Palaiochora,  at  the 
southern  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  we  had  proposed  resting  in 
order  to  examine  the  remains  of  an  ancient  city ;  but  the  Turkish 
Agha,  having  indulged  too  freely  in  the  forbidden  liquor,  was  per- 
fectly brutal,  and  threatened  to  have  us  strangled  if  we  dared  to 
pollute  his  village  by  our  Christian  presence.  We  therefore  unwill- 
ingly proceeded,  and,  passing  a  stream,  observed  some  ancient  traces 
and  foundations;  and  in  twenty-five  minutes  from  Palaiochora,  ar- 
rived at  the  village  of  Kamara,  where  we  passed  the  night  in  an 
Albanian  cottage.  This  place  commands  a  grand  view  of  Parnassos, 
and  the  plain  of  Doris. 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  LIIJEA,  AND  THE  TOWN  OF  DADI. 

On  the  11th,  we  proceeded  with  the  intention  of  examining  some 
places  in  the  vicinity,  and  of  discovering  the  remains  of  the  Dorian 

1  Probably  the  same  which  Pausanias  calls  Thhronion. 

*  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  7.  3  Remains  of  Japhet. 

«  Aps.  It  is  probable  that  most  places  in  Greece  took  their  denominations  from  local 
circumstances,  rather  than  from  the  names  of  people.  Strabo  is  of  the  former  opinion,  and 
Pausanias  of  the  latter. 

S  2 


132  RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 

cities.  A  short  way  from  the  village,  we  passed  by  a  copious  foun- 
tain, which  forms  a  stream  at  its  very  source.  Pasture,  forest, 
and  cultivated  land,  were  mingled  in  the  plain.  The  corn,  though 
nearly  ripe,  was  extremely  low :  we  passed  a  winding  stream  three 
times.  The  surface  of  the  plain  is  varied  by  gentle  undulations,  in- 
terspersed with  villages,  and  watered  by  numerous  rivulets,  which, 
running  to  the  south-east,  ultimately  find  their  way  into  the  Ce- 
phissos. 

We  proceeded  through  the  plain  towards  the  base  of  Parnassos, 
and  crossed  a  river  named  Aniani,  the  sides  of  which  are  shaded  by 
platani  of  ample  growth,  whose  branches,  meeting  from  the  opposite 
banks,  are  twined  into  a  dense  and  verdant  arbour,  beneath  which 
the  stream  glides,  secluded  from  the  sun.  There  was  a  river  in 
Doris  named  Pindos,  which  was  also  called  Alcyphas,  Acyphas,  or 
Cyphas,  and  entered  the  Cephissos,  near  Liloea.  We  observed  some 
traces  of  ancient  edifices," and  crossed  several  streams  near  a  metochi, 
or  farm,  belonging  to  a  monastery  on  Parnassos,  and  denominated 
■xu.va.yia.  Ua^ucnrov,  "  the  holy  virgin  of  Parnassos."  We  continued  for 
near  half  an  hour  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  the  mountain  rising 
abruptly  from  the  plain  close  on  our  right. 

We  stopped  at  the  foot  of  Parnassos,  to  draw  and  to  examine  the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  city  near  the  village  of  Mariolatis,  situated  on  a 
steep  precipitous  hill  projecting  from  the  mountain.  It  is  of  small 
circuit;  the  walls,  which  are  in  the  third  style,  are  nine  feet  and  a 
half  in  thickness,  and  fortified  with  square  towers. 

We  dined  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  under  the  shade  of  some  fine 
Balania  oaks  which  stand  near  a  ruined  church,  encrusted  with 
ancient  fragments,  amongst  which  is  an  illegible  inscription,  a  small 
Doric  capital  of  curious  form,  and  an  Ionic  base.  The  church  no 
doubt  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple.  It  is  useless  to  con- 
jecture the  name  of  this  city.  I  had  conceived  it  to  be  Charadra, 
as  its  situation  upon  a  high  rock  answers  to  the  description  which 
Pausanias1  gives  of  that  town.     But  he  places  it  only  twenty  stadia 

1  B.  10.  c.S3. 


RUINS  OF  LIL^A,  AND  SOURCES  OF  THE  CEPHISSOS.         133 

from  Lilcea,  whereas  we  were  an  hour  and  a  half  in  traversing  the 
space  between  those  places.  We  continued  along  the  wooded  foot 
of  Parnassos,  which  is  broken  into  magnificent  glens  which  are  at 
once  picturesque  and  Avild. 

We  crossed  several  streams,  whose  margins  were  generally  occu- 
pied by  large  trees;  and  in  an  hour  and  a  half  from  the  last  men- 
tioned ruins,  came  to  the  remains  of  another  city  similarly  situated. 
Its  acropolis  is  upon  an  abrupt  and  rocky  acclivity  projecting  from 
Parnassos.  The  surrounding  scenery  has  a  grand  and  savage  cha- 
racter. The  lower  town  was  in  the  plain,  and  several  remains  of 
the  walls  and  towers  are  in  a  wonderful  state  of  preservation,  and 
in  the  third  style  of  construction.  Some  of  the  square  towers 
have  their  doors  and  windows  remaining,  all  of  which  diminish 
upwards.  Most  of  the  ruins  are,  however,  overgrown  with  large 
bushes  that  are  difficult  to  penetrate.  The  labour  of  excavation 
would  here  be  probably  more  than  compensated  by  the  ancient 
relics  that  would  be  brought  to  light.  The  dispersion  of  marble 
fragments,  amongst  which  is  a  thronos  of  white  marble,  leads  us  to 
infer  that  the  town  itself  was  enriched  by  various  embellishments  of 
the  arts.  There  is  reason  to  conclude  that  these  are  the  ruins  of 
Lilaea ;  and  the  sources  of  the  Cephissos  are  seen  in  some  fine  springs 
impetuously  gushing  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  imme- 
diately forming  a  copious  and  rapid  stream. 

Homer1  mentions  the  source  of  the  divine  Cephissos  at  Lilaea, 
Strabo2  and  Pausanias5  notice  the  same  thing;  the  latter4  informs 
us  that  the  city  contained  a  theatre,  an  agora,  and  some  baths, 
with  the  temples5  of  Apollo  and  Diana;  and  that  it  took  its  name 
from  a  Naiad,  daughter  of  the  Cephissos. 

Immediately  after  quitting  this  place  we  crossed  the  Cephissos, 
already  assuming  the  appearance  of  a  rapid  and  beautiful  river. 


1  Iliad,  2.  v   523.  *  B.  9-  p.  407—424.  3  B.  9.  c.  24. 

*  B.  10.  c.  33.  s  iffa. 


134  RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY  AT  DADI. 

A  village  called  Bala1  was  visible  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain; 
and  some  large  blocks  and  foundations  were  scattered  near  the  road. 
A  marshy  stream  on  the  left  hand  enters  the  Cephissos,  in  the  same 
vicinity.  Some  way  further  the  river  is  provided  with  a  large  single- 
arched  bridge.  Parnassos  was  always  on  our  light  hand.  We  went 
through  a  kalybia,2  or  winter  residence,  into  which,  at  that  season 
of  the  year,  the  inhabitants  of  some  villages  situated  high  up  on 
Parnassos  retire  with  their  flocks,  as  their  summer  habitations  would 
be  too  much  exposed  to  the  inclemency  of  the  cold  and  to  deep 
falls  of  snow.  We  found  this  kalybia  totally  deserted,  the  pro- 
prietors being  on  the  mountain  with  their  flocks  and  cattle. 

In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Dadi,  a  populous  Greek  town 
situated  on  a  gentle  elevation  at  the  foot  of  Parnassos,  and  oc- 
cupying the  site  of  an  ancient  city  :  most  of  the  remains,  however, 
have  been  employed  in  the  construction  of  the  modern  town.  Dadi 
is  probably  the  ancient  Amphikleia,  as  Pausanias3  places  it  at  sixty 
stadia  from  Lilaea,  which  nearly  corresponds  to  two  hours  all  but 
seven  minutes,  which  we  employed  in  journeying  from  the  sources  of 
the  Cephissos  to  Dadi.  Pausanias  observes,  that  its  right  name  was 
Amphikaia,  as  it  is  called  by  Herodotus ;  and  that  the  Amphictyons 
afterwards  changed  it  into  that  of  Ophiteia. 

Herodotus,*  in  describing  the  march  of  the  Persians  from  Doris 
to  Phocis  on  their  way  to  Elateia,  says  that  they  proceeded  along 
the  Cephissos,  burning  in  their  way  the  towns  of  Drymos,5  Cha- 
radre,  Erochos,  Tethronion,  Amphikaia,  Neon,  Pedieai,  Triteai, 
and  Elateia;  but  that  they  left  the  Dorians  unmolested.     He  says 


1  Pronounced  Vala. 

2  From  xaXufitov  or  xaXu|3i),  a  cottage.  The  Icalybia  are  generally  inhabited  by  shepherds, 
and  are  in  the  vicinity  of  pasture  lands  which  feed  their  flocks.  Such  was  also  the  meaning 
of  the  word  anciently,  as  we  see  in  Homer's  Batrachom.  v.  30.  and  frequently  in  Herodotus 
and  Tluicydides. 

3  B.  10.  c.  33.  *  B.  S.  c.  83. 
*  I  have  written  these  names  as  they  are  in  Herodotus. 


RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY.  135 

nothing  of  Lilaea,  which  was  probably  at  that  time  considered  as  a 
Dorian  city. 

Wishing  to  visit  the  ruins  of  a  city  which  I  had  seen  the  day 
before  at  a  distance,  on  the  opposite  or  north-east  side  of  the  plain, 
I  set  out  on  the  12th,  accompanied  by  a  Greek  to  show  me  the 
way.     In   ten   minutes  we  arrived  at  a  church,  about  which  are 
several  fragments  and  ancient  traces,  that  formed  the  continuation 
of  the  city  on  which  the  town  of  Dadi  is  built.     This  place  is  called 
Bernikobitza. 1     In  the  vicinity  are  two  springs,  and  amongst  the 
ruins  some  sepulchral  stones  containing  merely  the  name  of  the  de- 
ceased.    On  a  large  slab  of  marble  is  a  psephisma  or  public  decree.2 
After  quitting  this  place  we  went  through  the  kalybia  which  I 
had  passed  the  preceding  day  ;  and  crossing  the  Cephissos  over 
the  single  arched  bridge,  entered  a  plain  rich  with  corn.     Having 
crossed  the  plain  in  a  northern  direction,  we  passed  through  a  small 
stream,  and  arrived  at  the  ruins  of  the  c\ty  we  were  in  search  of 
in  an  hour  and   twenty  minutes  from  Dadi,   corresponding  with 
thirty-five  stadia.     This,  according  to  Pausanias,3  was  the  distance 
from  Amphikleia   to   Drymaia :    the   latter  is   probably  indicated 
by  these  ruins,  that  are  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  chain  of  hills, 
on  an  insulated  eminence,  which  is  crowned  by  the  acropolis.     The 
walls  are  eight  feet  and  a  half  in  thickness,  and  in  the  third  style, 
which  seems  usual  in   most  of  the  ruins  of  this  part  of  Greece. 
They  are  well  preserved ;   some  of  the  square  towers  are  nearly 
perfect,  and  are  of  a  more  irregular  style  of  masonry  than  the  other 
parts  of  the  walls.     The  lateral  walls  lead  from  the  base  of  the  hill 
to  the  summit  of  the  acropolis,  where  they  almost  meet  in  a  point, 
forming  nearly  an  equilateral  triangle,  which  is  the  plan  of  most 
Grecian  cities  that  have  an  acropolis.     This  seems  to  have  been  a 
very  small  town  ;  and,  if  it  is  Drymaia,  it  well  merited  to  be  classed 


1  Pronounced  Vernikoviiza. 

4  I  copied  this  decree  \wtli  considerable  difficulty,  but  it  has  been  unfortunately  lost.  A 
copy  of  the  same  is  in  the  possession  of  Colonel  Leake,  which  it  is  hoped  he  will  give  to  the 
public.  s  B.  10.  c.  33. 


136  RUINS  OF  TWO  ANCIENT  CITIES. 


V 


amongst  the  "  parva,  atque  ignobilia  oppida,"  by  Livy.  Pausanias1 
says  there  was  an  ancient  temple  and  statue  at  Drymaia,  sacred  to 
Ceres,  whose  festival  was  annually  celebrated  in  that  city.  The  view 
from  hence  extends  over  the  rich  Doric  plain,  the  opposite  side 
of  which  is  terminated  by  Parnassos,  rising  in  all  its  majesty,  with 
a  shattered  surface  of  precipices  and  ravines,  and  deriving  a  sort  of 
animated  interest  from  the  ruins  of  three  ancient  cities  which  are 
still  descried  upon  its  rocks. 

After  completing  our  observations  and  drawings,  we  returned  to 
Dadi,  but  deviated  from  the  direct  road,  making  a  turn  to  the  left  in 
order  to  examine  the  remains  of  another  city  which  is  in  the  plain. 
In  fifty  minutes  we  crossed  a  stream  in  a  deep  ravine,  which  descends 
from  a  place   called  Drenitza,  on  Mount  Oeta,  four  hours  from 
Dadi.     Ten  minutes  more  brought  us  to  some  fine   foundations, 
apparently  the  ruins  of  a  temple.     Near  this  is  a  sarcophagus.     In 
ten  minutes  more  we  reached  the  ruins  of  the  city,  at  present  called 
Moulki ;  which  is  situated  upon  an  oblong  elevation,  rising  from  the 
river  of  Drenitza,  that  runs  clear  and  rapid  at  the  foot  of  some  low 
but  precipitous  rocks.     The  walls  of  this  place  are  so  much  de- 
stroyed that  it  is  even  difficult  to  comprehend  the  manner  of  their 
construction ;  but  the  few  remains  above  ground  indicate  that  they 
were  of  the  third  style.     Here  is  a  fine  circular  foundation  regularly 
built  with  large   blocks,  and  near  it   are   some   frusta    of  Doric 
columns,  of  small  dimensions.2     These  ruins  are  probably  the  re- 
mains of  Tethronion,  which,  according  to  Pausanias,  was   fifteen 
stadia  from   Amphikleia,  and  their  distance  from  Dadi  is  about 
forty  minutes.     On  quitting  this  place  we  again  crossed  the  river 
Drenitza,  the  course  of  which  is  marked  by  numerous  sinuosities, 
and   having   crossed  the  Cephissos,    we  arrived    at    Dadi   in   the 


evening. 


The    inhabitants   who   live   in    the    plain    of  Doris,    which  lies 


1  Loc.  cit.  '  Two  feet  three  inches  in  diameter. 


RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY.  137 

between  Oetaand  Parnassos,  complain  of  the  intensity  and  the  dura- 
tion of  the  winter  cold.  These  lofty  summits  continually  attract 
and  break  the  clouds,  by  which  they  are  assailed  with  long  and 
violent  showers  of  rain  and  snow.  And  Pausanias1  observes  that 
their  winters  were  extremely  inclement,  from  the  proximity  of  Par- 
nassos. 


TO  BELITZA,  TITHORAIA. 

We  quitted  Dadi  on  the  13th,  passed  by  a  fountain,  and  crossed 
a  bridge  over  a  rapid  stream  which  issues  from  a  grand  precipitous 
glen  of  Parnassos.  We  traversed  a  rising  plain,  and  having  reached 
an  elevated  spot,  looked  down  into  the  Avide  extended  vale  of 
Elateia,  and  observed  the  Cephissos  moving  slowly  through  it  in  a 
winding  course. 

We  descended  to  the  lower  part  of  the  plain,  and  came  to  a 
copious  fountain,  and  some  extensive  traces  and  foundations  which 
are  an  hour  and  a  half  from  Dadi.  These  are  the  ruins  of  Titho- 
raia,  which  Ave  continued  to  traverse  for  tAventy  minutes,  and  arrived 
at  Belitza,2  a  toAvn  peopled  by  Greeks,  and  situated  upon  the  ruins 
of  that  ancient  city.  This  beautiful  place  stands  near  the  entrance 
of  one  of  the  magnificent  glens  of  Parnassos,  from  which  it  is  sup- 
plied Avith  the  coolest  and  clearest  Avater.  It  abounds  in  springs 
and  fountains,  and  is  consequently  adorned  Avith  trees  and  verdure. 
One  of  the  grandest  precipices  of  Parnassos  rises  behind  the  town, 

1  Loc.  cit.  *  Pronounced  Velitza. 

VOL.    II.  T 


138  RUINS  OF  TITHORAIA. 

and  terminates  in  the  point  Tithorea,  which,  according  to  Hero- 
dotus,' was  near  the  city  of  Neon.  The  walls  of  the  ancient  town, 
which  are  of  the  third  and  fourth  styles,  are  built  up  the  side  of  a 
steep  hill,  till  they  reach  the  foot  of  the  precipice.  They  are  for- 
tified with  square  towers  in  good  preservation,  approaching  to  the 
regular  construction ;  and  are  no  doubt  much  less  ancient  than  the 
other  parts  of  the  walls.  Each  tower  has  two  doors,  and  two  rows 
of  windows  of  the  usual  form,  diminishing  towards  the  top.  The 
interior  of  these  towers  is  nineteen  feet  eight  inches  square;  they 
were  originally  of  two  stories ;  the  holes  that  received  the  beams 
are  seen  in  the  walls  above  the  lower  range  of  windows. 

In  the  church  of  the  holy  Virgin  are  two  inscriptions,  one  of  which 
is  merely  sepulchral ;  the  other  is  on  a  slab  of  marble  of  a  circular 
form,  and  is  of  importance,  inasmuch  as  it  mentions  the  city  of  Ti- 
thoraia/ In  the  church  of  Pareskebi  is  a  sepulchral  inscription, 
and  a  marble  sarcophagus. 

APXEBOTAA  ET0TMAXOZ 

ETNIKIAA2  *IAI2 

SilSIKPATEIA. 

It  appears  from  Herodotus*  and  Pausanias,4  that  the  most  an- 
cient name  of  this  place  was  Neon.  It  was  in  a  state  of  decay 
in  the  time  of  the  topographer,  but  contained  a  theatre,  an  ancient 
agora,  and  the  grove,5  temple,6  and  statue  of  Minerva. 

To  the  east  of  Tithoraia,  a  magnificent  and  wooded  glen  forms 
a  separation  between  the  rocks  of  Parnassos,  from  which  a  stream  is 
rolled  along  a  shattered  and  rugged  channel  with  impetuous  violence. 
Its  accumulated  waters  are  sometimes  productive  of  damage  during 


i  B.  8.  c.  32.  Titopex. 

*  This  inscription  was  first  noticed  and  published  by  Dr.  Clarke  in  a  Dissertation  on  his 
discovery  of  Tithoraia. 

•  B.  S.  c.  32.  *  B.  16.  c.  32.  *  AA<ro*  6  Naoj 


RUINS  OF  TITHORAIA.  139 

the  winter;  and  is  hence  called  Kaxo-^u^a,  or  "  the  bad  stream:"  it 
was  the  Kachales  of  the  ancients. ' 

No  olive  trees  are  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Tithoraia, 
though  the  oil  of  this  place  was  anciently  esteemed  the  best  in 
Greece.  * 


TO  ELATEIA. 


Having  examined  the  ruins  of  this  place,  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey  the  same  day.  After  a  quick  descent,  we  crossed  the  Ka- 
chales, which  is  formed  into  several  small  cascades,  before  it  enters 
into  the  plain.  The  scenery  consists  of  steep  precipices,  sprinkled 
with  small  trees  and  bushes. 

A  short  way  out  of  the  town  we  observed  a  Turkish  sepulchre, 
situated  on  the  summit  of  a  tumulus.  We  passed  by  the  villages  of 
Lernbey  and  Turcochori ;  the  latter  has  generally  been  taken  for 
the  ancient  Elateia,  but  it  contains  no  ruins,  and  in  no  respect  cor- 
responds with  the  position  of  that  city. 

We  continued  descending  gently  to  the  plain ;  passed  near  the 
kalybia  of  Turcochori,  and  soon  after  crossed  the  Cephissos,  which 
was  extremely  muddy.  After  crossing  the  plain,  we  passed  through 
a  village  called  Dragoman,  and  began  to  ascend.  An  ancient  se- 
pulchral stele,  elegantly  ornamented  with  sculptured  foliage,  is  ob- 
served near  the  road.  After  crossing  a  stream,  and  passing  near  a 
fountain,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Eleuta  in  two  hours  and  ten 
minutes  from  Tithoraia. 

This  place  is  situated  upon  the  ruins  of  Elateia,  which,  according 

'  Pausan.  b.  10.  c.  32.     The  ruins  of  Elateia  are  visible  from  Tithoraia,  bearing  E.N.E. 
'  Pausan.  b.  10.  c.  32. 
T  2 


140  RUINS  OF  ELATEIA. 

to  Pausanias,1  was  one  hundred  and  eighty  stadia  from  Amphikleia; 
but,  if  Dadi  is  Amphikleia,  there  must  be  some  error  in  that  author, 
as  it  is  only  three  hours  and  forty  minutes  from  that  place  to  the 
village  of  Eleuta,  which  at  most  cannot  count  for  much  more  than 
one  hundred  stadia.  Pausanias,  indeed,  seems  not  to  have  explored 
this  part  of  Greece  with  his  usual  accuracy  of  research ;  and  there  is 
considerable  confusion  in  the  distances  which  he  gives,  between  the 
cities  of  Doris  and  this  part  of  Phocis. 

The  ruins  of  Elateia  are  situated  at  the  foot  of  some  hills,  which 
unite  with  the  chain  of  Knemis  and  Oeta.  Its  position  was  well 
adapted  for  securing  the  narrow  passes2  that  lead  from  the  Hy- 
poknemidian  and  Opuntian  Locrians  into  this  part  of  Greece. 
Other  forts  and  cities  were,  for  the  same  purpose,  placed  higher  up ' 
on  the  ridge  of  the  mountains.  It  would,  at  present,  be  difficult  to 
ascertain  their  positions,  as  the  country  is  overgrown  with  forests, 
and,  in  many  places,  impassable  for  horses. 

Strabo4  pretends,  that  Elateia  was  unknown  to  Homer,  having  been 
erected  after  his  time ;  but  Pausanias 5  relates,  that  it  was  founded 
by  Elatos,  son  of  Arkas.  According  to  the  geographer,  it  was  the 
largest  town  in  Phocis  ;  but  Pausanias  says  that  it  was  inferior  to 
Delphi. 

The  acropolis  was  on  an  elevation  of  moderate  height;  and,  from 
the  few  remains  of  the  walls,  which  appear  to  have  been  constructed 
in  the  rude  Tirynthian  style,  I  should  be  inclined  to  credit  the 
account  of  Pausanias  rather  than  that  of  Strabo. 

Elateia  was  a  place  of  considerable  strength  and  importance,  and, 
though  burnt  by  the  Persians,  it  afterwards  rose  to  power,  and  was 
enabled  successfully  to  resist  the  attacks  of  Cassander, 6  and  after- 
wards of  Taxiles,7  general  of  Mithri dates.  In  the  war  between  the 
Romans  and  the  last  Philip  of  Macedon,  it  adhered  to  the  interests 


1  B.  10.  c.  34.         *  Zlsw.     Strabo,  b.  9-  p.  418.         '  Ibid.         *  B.  9.  p.  424. 
5  B.  10.  c.  31.  6  Pausan.  b.  10.  c.34.  '  Ibid. 


RUINS  OF  ELATEIA.  141 

of  the  latter;  and,  according  to  Pausanias,1  resisted  the  besieging 
army  of  the  Romans,  commanded  by  Flaminius;  by  whom,  how- 
ever, 4Livy2  maintains  that  it  was  captured.  Strabo'  observes,  that 
it  was  a  place  of  such  consequence,  that  the  greatest  consternation 
was  excited  at  Athens,  when  it  was  reduced  by  Philip,  father  of 
Alexander. 

The  principal  objects  of  Elateia,  worthy  of  attention  in  the  time 
of  Pausanias,  were  the  Agora,  the  sepulchral  stele  of  Elatos,  a  tem- 
ple4 of  iEsculapius,  and  a  theatre,  of  which  some  small  remains  may 
still  be  seen.  Elateia  commands  an  extensive  view  over  the  plain, 
bounded  by  Parnassos,  at  the  foot  of  which  the  ruins5  of  Tithoraia 
are  descried. 


TO  THE  TEMPLE  OF  MINERVA  KRANAIA. 

At  the  village  of  Eleuta  we  endeavoured  to  obtain  some  informa- 
tion concerning  the  Temple5  of  Minerva  Kranaia;  which,  according 
to  Pausanias,  was  twenty  stadia  from  Elateia.  We  were  told  that 
some  ancient  walls  and  columns  were  seen  upon  the  hills  at  about 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  from  the  village.  We  accordingly  set  out, 
accompanied  by  a  guide.  Pausanias  says,  the  road  to  it  has  a  gentle 
ascent.  We  proceeded  in  a  northern  direction ;  and,  having  crossed 
a  stream  descending  from  the  neighbouring  hills  which  were  close  on 
our  right,  we  ascended  gently,  and  arrived  in  half  an  hour  at  a  church 
with  some  blocks  about  it,  and  a  large  broken  vase  of  stone,  ap- 
parently the  ancient  receptacle  of  a  fountain,  that  here  issues  from 


'  Ibid.  *  B.  32.  c.  24.  5  B.  9.  p.  424..     See  also  Demosth. 

*  N«ay.  5  Bearing  W.  S.  \V  «  Upon. 


142  TEMPLE  OF  MINERVA  KRANAIA. 

the  rock.  In  fourteen  minutes  more,  we  reached  the  ruins  of  the 
temple,  situated  precisely  as  Pausanias  describes  it,  on  a  steep  rock 
of  inconsiderable  height  and  dimensions.  It  was  surrounded  by  a 
peribolos.  The  south  side  is  supported  by  a  strong  fence-wall  of 
great  antiquity,  at  present  composed  of  eleven  layers  of  stones,  con- 
structed with  a  certain  degree  of  irregularity,  nearly  approaching 
the  system  of  polygons. 

This  wall  is  furnished  with  several  drains,  three  in  a  line,  one  over 
the  other.  The  peribolos  was  closed  by  a  gate,  the  traces  of  which 
are  seen  at  the  north-west  angle,  where  we  entered. 

Several  foundations  are  discovered  round  the  temple,  which  pro- 
bably belonged  to  the  porticos,1  and  buildings  for  the  priests  and 
attendants. 

The  temple  itself  was  of  small  dimensions,  less  than  the  Theseion 
at  Athens,  and  built  upon  the  same  plan.  The  lower  parts  of  four 
columns  are  yet  standing  in  their  places.  They  are  of  stone,  and 
fluted  Doric ;  they  are  two  feet  seven  inches  diameter,  and  the  in- 
tercolumniations  are  four  feet  six  inches.  The  view  from  hence  com- 
mands the  plain  of  Elateia,  and  its  mountains. 

We  returned  to  Eleuta  by  the  same  road,  and  quitted  it  the  next 
day,  the  loth,  on  our  way  to  Bceotia. 


TO  CILERONEIA. 

We  passed  through  one  stream,  and  came  to  the  junction  of  two 
others ;  beyond  which  is  a  tumulus  to  the  left,  and  further  on,  some 
ancient  traces.  We  afterwards  passed  another  stream,  and  continued 
our  journey  through  a  rich  agricultural  plain.  We  observed  a  paved 
way  composed  of  small  stones,  but  apparently  ancient.     Having 

1  Hhm. — Pausan. 


o 
K 

e 

K 

h    h 
o 


PLAIN  OF  CH^RONEIA.  143 

proceeded  an  hour  and  a  half  from  Eleuta,  we  came  to  the  banks  of 
the  Cephissos ;  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  is  a  round  insulated 
hill.  We  forded  the  river  to  the  right  of  a  village  named  Koubo, 
which  stands  at  the  foot  of  some  hills.  An  elevation  of  the  plain 
here  deprived  us  of  the  sight  of  Parnassos,  which  we  had  seen  all 
the  way  from  the  summit  of  Oeta.  Having  passed  along  the  foot  of 
a  range  of  hills,  which  project  from  the  left,  we  traversed  the  narrow 
part  of  the  plain  of  Elateia,  when  our  view  opened  upon  the  spacious 
expanse  which  forms  the  plain  of  Chaeroneia,  beyond  which  Daulis, 
Panopeus,  Chaeroneia,  the  mountains  above  Libadea,  and  the  south- 
ern side  of  Parnassos,  with  the  eastern  end  of  Kirphis,  were  distinctly 
recognized.  The  chain  of  Mount  Edylion,  which  rises  from  the  river 
Assos  near  the  ruins  of  Orchomenos,  was  upon  our  left ;  and  the  whole 
formed  a  prospect  rich  in  variety  of  beauty,  and  in  multiplicity 
of  historical  recollections.  We  crossed  a  bridge  over  a  hasty 
rivulet,  near  its  junction  with  the  Cephissos.  We  soon  afterwards 
found  ourselves  much  impeded  in  the  marshes,  and  with  difficulty 
crossed  some  fen-ditches.  The  soil  was  extremely  rich,  and  the  pas- 
ture land  of  the  finest  quality.  In  three  hours  and  forty  minutes 
from  Elateia,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Kapourna,  the  ancient 
Chaeroneia,  and  were  hospitably  received  in  the  same  house  in  which 
I  had  lodged  some  months  before. 


TO  ORCHOMENOS. 

On  the  16th  we  proceeded  to  Orchomenos,  taking  the  summer 
road,  which  is  the  shortest ;  in  thirty-seven  minutes  we  came  near  a 
tumulus,  and  the  villages  of  Magoula  and  Deserby. 

We  stopped  at  the  church  of  St.  John,  to  take  a  view  of  this 
memorable  plain,  in  which  the  most  conspicuous  features  were 
the  ruins  of  Chaeroneia,  Panopeus,  and  Daulis,  with  the  noble  and 


144  PLAIN  OF  CH.ERONEIA. 

majestic  mass  of  Parnassos.  The  church  probably  stands  on  the  site 
of  a  temple,  of  which  some  fragments  are  seen  in  its  walls,  with  a 
corroded  inscription,  and  several  large  blocks  of  stone.  Upon  our 
arrival  at  the  Cephissos,  we  proceeded  along  its  bank.  A  village, 
called  Beli,  was  visible  on  the  opposite  side  of  it:  we  crossed 
a  stream  entering  the  Cephissos,  and  passed  through  a  village 
named  Gephura,1  the  ancient  Greek  name  for  a  bridge.  It  is  pro- 
bable that  there  was  formerly  one  in  this  place,  as  the  river  runs 
close  to  the  village.  To  our  right  the  village  of  Romaiko  was 
visible,  and  in  the  distance  we  saw  Libadea.  We  passed  through 
some  vineyards,  crossed  a  bridge  of  three  arches  over  the  Cephissos, 
and  arrived  at  the  village  of  Skripou  (Orchomenos),  Avhich,  as  I  had 
visited  in  a  former  part  of  my  tour,  I  need  not  notice  any  further  in 
this  place,  but  shall  proceed  in  the  continuation  of  my  itinerary. 


TO  THEBES. 


We  quitted  this  village  the  next  morning,  the  17th,  and  passing 
by  the  tumulus  which  is  near  Skripou,  went  through  the  village  of 
Agios  Demetrios,  and  came  to  the  Cephissos.  We  found  a  great 
number  of  water  tortoises:2  on  its  banks  they  are  amphibious;  and 
on  perceiving  us  they  plunged,  and  soon  after  rose  again,  emerging 
only  their  heads  above  water,  to  watch  us ;  and  if  we  made  the  least 
motion  dived  again.  They  are  common  in  the  marshy  parts  of 
Greece  and  Italy,  and  are  much  more  active  and  lively  than  the 
land  tortoise.  I  found  them  in  Italy,  and  I  kept  one  for  a  long  time  : 
it  slept  during  the  winter;  it   would  never  eat  out  of  the  water; 

1  Pronounced  Eufere.  *  The  Nefo-^eAwvi)  of  the  modern  Greeks. 


THE  LAND  AND  WATER  TORTOISE.  145 

when  I  fed  it,  I  was  obliged  to  put  it  into  the  water,  and  it  drew  to 
the  bottom  the  herbs  which  I  threw  in  for  its  support.  It  was  always 
silent.  It  differs  from  the  land  tortoise  in  form,  in  colour,  and  in 
being  much  flatter ;  the  uppermost  part  of  the  shell  is  black,  and 
the  lower  is  yellow;  the  feet  are  long  and  webbed,  and  speckled 
with  black  and  bright  yellow ;  the  head  is  longer  than  that  of  the 
land  tortoise,  and  resembles  that  of  the  common  snake ;  the  eyes 
are  extremely  large  and  beautiful.  The  water  tortoise  is  doomed  to 
continual  silence.  The  nymph  Chelone,  being  thrown  into  a  river 
by  Mercury,  was  transformed  into  a  tortoise,  and  condemned  to 
perpetual  taciturnity.  The  poets,  no  doubt,  alluded  to  the  water 
tortoise ;  as  the  land  tortoise  is  not  so  immutably  silent.  The  lyre, 
or  %eXvs,  was,  however,  made  from  the  shell  of  the  latter;  that  of  the 
former  being  soft  and  pliable,  and  unadapted  for  that  instrument, 
though  Symposius  poetically,  but  erroneously,  says,  "  Viva  nihil 
dixi  quae  sic  modo  mortua  canto/'  The  land  tortoises  are  common 
in  almost  all  parts  of  Greece,  and  in  the  mountainous  and  unculti- 
vated parts  of  Italy,  though  Mons.  de  Pauw  asserts,1  that  they  were 
only  found  in  Arcadia.  I  saw  none  in  iEgina,  though  it  was  the 
common  type  of  the  ancient  money  of  that  island.  The  land  tor- 
toise is  lively  only  in  hot  weather,  when  making  love  or  fighting 
with  a  rival.  On  the  former  occasion,  the  male  sings  with  a  curious 
note,  which  may  be  heard  at  a  considerable  distance :  the  female  is 
generally,  though  not  always,  silent.  It  lays  three  or  four  eggs,  though 
seldom  in  the  same  spot ;  but  stopping  at  intervals,  deposits  them 
on  the  ground  :  having  with  her  two  hind  feet  scraped  a  hole  for  their 
reception,  she  slightly  covers  them  with  earth,  and  leaves  them  to 
their  fate;  they  are  hatched  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  Their  eggs  are 
about  the  size  of  pigeons'  eggs,  but  of  a  less  oblong  form.  The  fe- 
male tortoise  is  extremely  coy;  and  it  is  not  till  the  male  has  knocked 


1  Recherches  I'hilosoph.  sur  les  Grecs,  vol.  2. 
VOL.  II.  U 


146  THE  LAND  TORTOISE. 

her  violently  with  his  shell,  and  bitten  her  legs,  that  any  favours 
can  be  obtained ;  and  the  observation  of  Oppian '  is  perfectly  ac- 
curate : 

He  amorous  pursues,  they  conscious  fly 

Joyless  caresses,  and  resolv'd  deny. 

Since  partial  Heav'n  has  thus  restrain'd  the  bliss, 

The  males  they  welcome  with  a  closer  kiss, 

Bite  angry,  and  reluctant  hate  declare  ; 

The  tortoise  courtship  is  a  state  of  war. 

Land  tortoises  are  eaten  by  the  Italians,  particularly  by  the  reli- 
gious orders,  by  whom  they  are  considered  as  a  meagre  dish.  The 
Turks  and  Greeks  class  them  among  the  unclean  animals,  and  have 
a  violent  prejudice  against  them  as  an  object  of  food,  and  look  upon 
the  Italians  with  great  contempt,  calling  them  ^eXmo^ayoi,  or  tortoise- 
eaters,  as  a  term  of  reproach.  The  Attic  tortoises  are  differently 
shaped  from  those  of  other  parts  of  G  reece,  being  longer,  and  higher 
in  proportion  to  their  breadth.  They  have  an  arbitrary  stomach  and 
lungs,  and  remain  at  least  half  the  year  under  ground,  in  their  hy- 
bernaculum,  or  winter-quarters,  in  a  state  of  torpor,  without  eating 
or  breathing. 

We  were  two  hours  and  a  quarter  in  crossing  the  Kopaic  plain, 
from  Orchomenos  to  the  mountains  on  its  southern  side,  having 
passed  several  artificial  ditches,  and  some  streams  which  are  fur- 
nished with  bridges.  The  plain,  which  was  at  this  time  covered  with 
corn  and  fine  pasture,  is  generally  inundated  during  the  winter  sea- 
son, when  it  forms  part  of  the  Lake  of  Kopais.  We  rested  at  a 
spring  which  issues  from  a  rock,  and  which  I  conceive  to  be  the 
Tilphoussian  fountain.2  Soon  after  quitting  this  place,  we  crossed 
seven  small  streams  in  the  course  of  a  few  minutes,  all  issuing  from 
the  same  source  which  forms  the  Lophis.     We  passed  through  the 


Halieuticks,  b.  1.  v.  513.  *  See  vol.  1.  c.  8.  of  this  Tour, 


HALIARTOS.    ONCHESTOS.  147 

ruins  of  Haliartos,  leaving  the  road  to  Thespeia  and  Thisbe  to  the 
right.  We  crossed  two  streams,  the  largest  of  which  is  provided  with 
a  bridge  of  one  arch.  In  twenty  minutes  from  the  last-mentioned 
ruins  we  reached  a  cave  in  a  rock  to  the  right  of  the  road,  near  the 
village  of  Megalo  Moulki.  The  summit  of  the  rock  displays  the 
ruins  of  a  modern  tower,  which  was  probably  constructed  at  the 
time  when  the  Catalans  had  possession  of  Bceotia,  and  served  as  a 
watch-tower,  as  it  overlooks  the  full  extent  of  the  Kopaic  plain,  and 
the  roads  leading  to  Libadea  and  Thebes.  The  cave  is  the  work 
of  nature;  the  falling  in  of  part  of  the  roof  has  rendered  the  sky 
visible  through  the  aperture.  Some  ancient  traces  and  foundations 
at  its  entrance,  and  in  its  immediate  vicinity,  make  it  probable  that 
it  was  formerly  sacred  to  some  of  the  rural  deities.  A  few  paces 
from  it  a  spring  of  clear  water  issues  from  the  rock.  While  we  were 
resting  at  this  place,  some  Turkish  ladies  arrived  on  horseback,  on 
their  way  from  Thebes  to  Libadea.  They  veiled  their  faces,  but 
desired  their  attendants  to  present  us  with  coffee,  which  they  pre- 
pared at  a  fire  made  with  dry  sticks. 

A  quarter  of  an  hour  after  we  had  quitted  this  place  we  reached  a 
large  tumulus  composed  of  small  stones :  some  blocks  of  stone  are 
scattered  about  in  its  vicinity. 

At  a  short  distance  from  this  spot  wre  ascended  a  gentle  projection 
from  Mount  Phoinikios,  which  was  on  our  left  hand,  and  passed 
through  the  fallen  and  scattered  remains  of  an  ancient  city,  probably 
Onchestos,  which,  according  to  Strabo,'  was  situated  upon  a  height, 
and  was  also  called  Phoinikis,  from  its  vicinity  to  Mount  Phoinikios. 
Pausanias2  places  this  town  at  fifteen  stadia  from  the  mountain  ; 
but  he  probably  means  from  its  summit.  Though  it  was  in  ruins  in 
his  time,  it  contained  a  temple,5  and  a  statue  of  Neptune  Onches- 
tios,  and  the  grove  which  is  celebrated  by  Homer.4 


1  B.  9.  p.  4.10.  412.  -  B.  9.  c.  26.  3  yaos.       *  Iliad,  2.  v.  506. 

U  2 


148  PLAIN  OF  THEBES. 

We  descended  from  this  place  into  a  level  plain,  fertile  in  corn 
and  cotton,  and  we  soon  distinguished  the  minarets  of  Thebes. 

The  villages  of  Bari  and  Morokambi  are  visible  at  the  foot  of  some 
hills  to  the  right,  beyond  which  Mount  Cithaeron  terminates  the 
distant  view.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Thebes,  which  is  five 
hours  and  a  half  from  Orchomenos,  three  hours  and  twelve  minutes 
from  the  ruins  of  Haliartos,  and  one  hour  and  forty  minutes  from  the 
ruins  near  Mount  Phoinikios. 


TO  CHALCIS  IN  EUBCEA. 

On  the  18th  we  quitted  Thebes,  with  the  intention  of  visiting  the 
Euripos  and  Chalcis,  the  ancient  and  modern  capital  of  Euboea. 
Proetis  was  the  gate  of  Thebes,  which  anciently  faced  Chalcis.  We 
passed  by  a  stream  and  fountain,  and  the  village  of  Saint  Theodoro, 
fifty-nine  minutes  from  Thebes.  The  road  ran  between  two  small 
tumuli,  twenty  minutes  from  which  the  traces  of  an  ancient  wall 
were  perceptible.  In  six  minutes  more  a  tumulus  was  seen  to  the 
right,  and  a  ruined  tower  about  half  a  mile  beyond  it.  An  hour  and 
a  half  from  the  last  tumulus  three  large  rough  blocks  of  stone  are 
observed  near  the  road.  Fifty  minutes  more  brought  us  to  some 
ancient  sepulchres,  and  the  traces  and  foundations  of  a  small  town. 

Pausanias  does  not  give  the  distance  of  Teumessos  from  Thebes ; 
but  the  scholiast  of  Euripides'  says,  that  it  was  100  stadia,  and  this 
computation  was  sufficiently  in  unison  with  the  three  hours  and 
torty-five  minutes  which  we  employed  in  reaching  these  ruins  from 


'  Phceniss.  v.  1107. 


MYKALESSOS.  149 

Thebes.  Continuing  our  route  we  refreshed  ourselves  at  a  fountain, 
and  passed  by  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  town,  thirty-three  minutes  from 
the  last-mentioned  remains.  These  ruins  are  situated  on  a  hill  to 
the  left  of  the  road,  and  are  of  moderate  dimensions.  The  walls  are 
composed  with  small  stones,  which  were  probably  once  coated  with 
larger  masses.  We  felt  no  inclination  to  ascend  the  hill,  as  our 
strength  was  exhausted  by  the  intensity  of  the  heat.  These  may, 
perhaps,  be  the  remains  of  Harma.  We  passed  over  a  gentle  emi- 
nence, which  intervenes  between  the  Theban  plain  and  that  of  Aulis- 
From  hence  we  commanded  a  view  of  the  Euripos,  and  the  moun- 
tainous range  of  Euboea,  with  Chalcis,  its  capital. 

I  have  thus  far  been  particular  in  noting  the  smallest  traces  from 
Thebes,  with  their  reciprocal  distances ;  as  upon  this  road  Pausa- 
nias  ■  notices  some  monuments  of  considerable  interest.  He  says, 
"  after  quitting  the  gate  of  Proetis  for  Chalcis,  the  tomb3  of  Me- 
lanippos  is  passed ;  and  near  it  three  rough  stones,  said  to  be  the 
sepulchre  of  Tydeus.  The  tombs  3  of  the  sons  of  CEdipus  are  on 
the  same  road,  and  further  on  the  village*  of  Teumessos.  The  mo- 
nument s  of  Chalkodon,  and  the  ruins  of  Harma  and  Mykalessos, 
were  on  the  same  route,  with  a  temple6  of  the  Mykalessian  Ceres." 
We  must  have  passed  over  or  near  the  site  of  the  ancient  Myka- 
lessos. Strabo7  calls  it  a  village,8  and  Pausanias9  says  it  was  in 
ruins  in  his  time.  It  however  once  had  its  mint;  and  I  purchased 
at  Thebes  one  of  its  small  silver  oboli,  with  the  Boeotian  shield  on 
one  side,  and  a  thunder-bolt  on  the  reverse,  with  the  two  first  letters 
of  the  town  M  Y. 

We  approached  the  Euripos  by  a  gentle  descent,  and  to  the  left 
saw  a  hill  with  a  fort  and  a  mosque  upon  its  summit,  erected  by 
Mahmoud  Pacha,  grand  vizir  of  Mohamed  the  second.  It  is  called 
Baba-Kastro,  or  Kara-Baba,  and  is  probably  the  place  which  Strabo10 
calls  Salganeus,  from  a  Boeotian  of  that  name  who  was  buried  there. 


'   B.  9-  c.  18.  St  19.  2  Ixtpo;.  3  [^vr^ala,.  *  p^cypioy.  5  fiioj^a.  6  u^av. 

t  B.  9.  p.  404.  8xwjxrr  9B.  9.  c.  19.  10  B.  9-  p.  403.  he  calls  it  xwPl0v- 


150  THE  EURIPOS. 

According  to  Diodorus  Siculus,'  it  was  a  fortified  post.  Stephanus J 
says  it  was  a  city;  Ptolemy'  calls  it  Saganeus,  and  places  it  be- 
tween Aulis  and  Anthedon,  which  corresponded  with  the  actual 
situation  of  Kara  Baba.  The  ancient  way  at  the  foot  of  this  hill  is 
cut  in  the  rock. 

We  crossed  the  Euripos  by  a  bridge  of  two  arches,  one  of  which 
joins  the  continent,  and  the  other  the  island,  having  an  insulated 
rock  in  the  middle  of  the  channel,  on  which  is  a  circular  tower, 
and  a  gate  through  which  we  passed.  The  bridge  has  some  other 
smaller  arches  for  the  purpose  of  affording  a  free  passage  to  the 
current,  which  rushes  with  great  impetuosity.  We  crossed  it  at  seven 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  it  was  then  running  towards  the  north. 
On  entering  the  town  we  observed  the  Venetian  arms,  sculptured  in 
stone,  still  remaining  over  the  gate.  The  bridge  over  the  Euripos, 
at  least  the  superstructure,  is  modern,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  by  Mahmoud  Pasha  in  the  year  1462.  The  ancient  bridge 
was  fortified  with  towers,  Avails,  and  gates,  in  the  time  of  Alexander, 
when  there  was  one  tower  on  the  continent  and  another  on  the 
island.*  Livy,5  speaking  of  Paulus  iEmilius,  has  the  following  pas- 
sage :  "  Chalcidem  ad  spectaculum  Euripi,  aevoque  ante,  insula; 
ponte  continenti  junctae  descendit,"  from  which  it  would  appear 
that  Euboea  was  only  united  to  the  continent  a  century  before  the 
time  of  the  conqueror  of  Macedon. 

Euboea  was  probably  separated  from  Bceotia  by  one  of  those  con- 
vulsions of  nature  which  have  been  common  in  this  part  of  Greece. 
Such  was  the  opinion  of  Strabo,6  Pliny,7  and  Procopius.8  Lucian9 
says  it  was  cut  from  the  continent.  Chalcis  and  the  whole  island  is 
called  Euripos  by  the  modern  Greeks,  who,  however,  pronounce  it 
Euripo,  which  by  the  assistance  of  the  Italians,  has  been  corrupted 
into  Egripo,  Negripo,  and  at   last  into  Negroponte.      This  pro- 


B.  19.  c.  77.      '  De  Urbib.  p.  657.       3  B.  3.  c.  15.  p.  86.       4  Strabo,  b.  10.  p.  447- 

5  B.  45.  c.  27.  6  B.  9.  p.  400.  '  Nat.  Hist.  b.  2.  c.  88. 

De  iEilific.  b.  4.  c.  3.  p.  72.  Paris  edit.  9  Nero,  or  the  digging  of  the  isthmus. 


'    — 


© 


^ 


EUB(EA.    CHALCIS.    FOUNT  ARETHOUSA.  151 

bably  arose  from  us  ton  Evgwov,  and  their  ignorance  of  the  language. 
Leunclavius1  calls  it  Egripos,  but  says,  that  in  his  time2  it  was 
vulgarly  denominated  Negroponte.  The  capital  of  the  island  is 
peopled  by  about  12,000  Greeks  and  Turks,  both  of  whom  bear  a 
bad  character.  There  is  no  place  in  Greece  where  the  Turks  are 
more  vicious  and  tyrannical ;  and  the  Greeks,  who  frequently  em- 
brace Islamism,  become  more  cruel  and  oppressive  than  the  Turks 
themselves.  Indeed  the  genera]  bad  conduct  of  these  renegados 
has  given  rise  to  a  Turkish  proverb,  that  a  bad  Christian  can  never 
become  a  good  Musulman  :  "  Er  kim  fena  Giaour  olmichidi  eche  ei 
Musulman  olur." 

When  Eubcea3  was  taken  by  Mohamed  the  Second,  it  contained 
24,000  men  capable  of  bearing  arms,  and  was  able  for  some  time  to 
resist  the  attacks  of  140,000  Turks,  the  best  soldiers  of  the  age : 
and  it  would  probably  have  withstood  all  the  efforts  of  the  sultan 
had  it  not  been  for  the  treachery  of  an  Albanian.  It  is  now 
governed  by  a  pacha  of  three  tails.  There  are  300  villages  within 
the  island,  and  the  Turks  constitute  the  greater  part  of  the  po- 
pulation. 

According  to  Strabo,*  Chalcis  was  founded  by  the  Athenians 
before  the  Trojan  war.  Scarcely  any  remains  of  its  ancient  splen- 
dour now  exist.  Dicaearchus5  mentions  its  gymnasia,  porticos, 
temples,  and  theatres,  and  says  that  it  was  seventy  stadia  in  cir- 
cumference. The  only  remains  that  are  visible  at  present  are  some 
unintelligible  foundations  and  scattered  blocks,  some  subterraneous 
chambers,  and  the  fountain  Arethousa,6  a  spring  of  clear  and  copious 
water,  which,  according  to  Dicsearchus,  abundantly  supplied  the 
whole  town,  while  Athenaeus7  remarks  that  it  contained  tame  fish. 


1  Pandect.  Hist.  Turcic.  p.  451.  Paris  edit.  -  In  1590. 

3  See  Ducas  Michaelis  Nep.  Hist.  Byzant.  Chronicon  breve,  p.  200.  Paris  edit.  It  was 
taken  in  the  year  1470.  *  B.  10.  p.  446.  5  Stat.  Graec. 

6  See  Euripid.  Iphig.  in  Aulid.  v.  170.  la.;  kXuvols  ApaQovva.;-  Strabo,  b.  1.  p.  58.  Plin. 
Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  12.  7  Dcipnosopli.  b.  S.  c.  1. 


152  EUBCEA.    CHALCIS. 

The  whole  island. sent  forty  ships  to  Troy.  >  In  the  time  of  the 
Persian  invasion,  Chalcis  alone  had  twenty  vessels  at  the  battle  of 
Salamis,  and  Eretria  had  seven.2  Chalcis  also  sent  400  men  to  the 
battle  of  Platsea.3  In  the  period  of  their  greatest  prosperity  the 
Euboeans  had  many  cities;  and,  abounding  in  population,  sent 
colonies  to  Macedon,  Italy,  and  Sicily.  The  only  coins  of  this 
island  which  have  as  yet  been  found  are  those  of  Chalcis,  Eretria, 
Kar\rstos,  Istiaia,  and  Kerinthos,  all  of  which  are  common  except 
the  latter,  and  have  been  published  by  Eckhel,  Mionnet,  and  others. 

According  to  Strabo,4  Eubcea  was  originally  called  Makris  and 
Abantis.     He  asserts  that  its  entire  length,  from  the  Cenaean  to  the 
Geraistian  promontory,  is  1200  stadia;  its  breadth,  which  is  very 
unequal,  being  in  the  broadest  part  150  stadia.   According  to  Pliny, 
it  was  150  miles  in  length,  forty  in  breadth,  and  565  in  circuit. 

The  same  author  says,  that  its  most  ancient  names  were  Chalco- 
dontis,  Makris,  or  Makrae,  Chalcis,  Abantias,  and  Asopis. 

As  the  heat,  which  was  now  become  almost  insupportable,  had 
put  an  end  to  our  travelling,  we  reluctantly  abandoned  the  idea  of 
visiting  the  places  in  this  interesting  island  which  remained  to  be 
explored.  The  remains  of  most  of  its  ancient  cities  may  still  be 
seen ;  and  the  ruins  of  Eretria  would  merit  particular  attention 
from  their  perfect  state  of  preservation. 

There  is  perhaps  no  country  of  the  same  extent  where  nature  is 
so  varied  as  in  the  island  of  Eubcea-  It  produces  quarries  of 
green  marble 6  and  asbestos 7,  mines  of  copper  and  iron 8,  and  hot 
baths.9  The  mountains  which  stretch  through  the  whole  island 
are  extremely  lofty,  and  of  fine  forms.  Near  the  Euripos,  and 
particularly  opposite  Locris,  precipices  of  gigantic  magnitude  are 
elevated  from  the  sea.  The  interior  of  the  island  is  rather  un- 
dulating than  precipitous.     Rich  and  fertile  plains  are  interposed 


1  Homer.  Iliad,  2.  v.  545.  2  Herodot.  b.  8.  c.  46.  3  Id.  b.  9.  c.  28. 

4  B.  10.  p.  444.  s  Nat.  Hist.  b.  2.  c.  12.  6  Called  Cipollino  by  the  Italians. 

Strabo,  b.  10.  p.  446.  «  Id.  p.  447.  9  Ibid,  and  Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  12. 


EUBCEA.  15S 

between  the  mountains ;  and  these,  in  ancient  times,  furnished 
grain  sufficient  not  only  for  its  numerous  cities,  but  enabled 
it  to  export  a  large  quantity  to  the  capital  of  Attica,  where  the 
thin  and  arid  soil  could  not  be  brought  to  yield  enough  for  the  sus- 
tenance of  its  inhabitants."  If  an  enemy  wished  to  starve  Athens, 
the  first  step  was  the  occupation  of  Eubosa,  thereby  cutting  off  the 
great  source  of  its  necessary  supplies.  The  Athenians  were  then 
obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the  fertile  shores  of  Pontus  and  Byzan- 
tium, which  they  could  do  only  when  they  were  masters  of  the  sea. 
It  seems  that  there  was  formerly  not  much  pasture  land  in  Euboea, 
and  horses  were  kept  only  by  the  wealthier  inhabitants,  who  were 
accordingly  named  hippobotoi ;2  an  appellation  which  seems  to  have 
been  the  origin  of  the  Roman  eqaites,  and  the  modern  title  of  che- 
valier or  cavallere,  many  of  whom  at  the  present  day  cannot  even 
keep  a  dog. 

One  of  the  loftiest  mountains  in  Euboea  is  at  present  called  Del- 
phi, which  is  situated  to  the  north  of  Chalcis,  and  ascends  in  a 
majestic  form,  terminating  in  a  point.  Euripides'  mentions  a  moun- 
tain in  Eubosa  called  Dirphe,  which,  from  the  similarity  of  name, 
may  be  the  same  as  Delphi.  Strabo4  mentions  a  mountain  in  the 
Histiaiotis  of  Eubosa,  called  Telethrion.  He  says  that  Oche,5  near 
Karystos,  was  the  highest  of  the  island.  It  is  seen  from  almost 
every  part  of  the  archipelago,  and  I  clearly  distinguished  it  from 
Delos,  and  from  several  other  islands  at  a  great  distance  from  it. 


1  Thucyd.  b.  1.  c.  2.     2  See  Herod,  b.  5.  c.  77.     5  Hercul.  fur.  v.  185.    *  B.  10.  p.  446. 
3  This  mountain  is  at  present  called  Karystos,  and  sometimes  the  mountain  of  Saint  Elias. 
Pliny  mentions  Ocha  as  a  city.     Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  19. 


VOL.  II. 


154  PORT  OF  AULIS. 


TO  BOIATI. 


On  the  19th  we  quitted  Euboea,  returning  over  the  Euripos  into 
Boeotia,  with  the  intention  of  proceeding  to  Athens  by  Oropos  and 
Marathon.     We  left  the  road  to  Thebes  on  our  right,  and  keeping 
alone  the  gulf  in  a  south-east  direction,  crossed  a  stream  which 
enters  the  sea.     In  an  hour  and   ten  minutes  from  Chalcis,   we 
stopped  to  examine  a  port  which  must  be  that  of  Aulis,  where  the 
Grecian  fleet  assembled  before  its  departure  for  Troy.     Livy  ■  says 
that  it  is  three  miles  from  Chalcis,  which  agrees  with  the  seventy 
minutes  it  took  us  to  reach  it.     After  quitting  the  port  of  Aulis,  we 
saw  a  small  island  in  the  sea,  and  some  way  from  it  another,  both 
at  no  great  distance  from  the  shore.      On  the  Euboean  coast  is 
distinguished  a  large  plain  rich  with  trees,  and   a  low  promontory 
rising  from  it  surmounted  by  a  tower.     That  spot  is  covered  with 
the  ruins  of  Eretria,  which  comprise  some  interesting  remains  of  a 
theatre,  and  the  city  walls,  with  their  towers  in  high  preservation. 

A  village  to  the  left,  on  the  Boeotian  shore,  attracted  our  atten- 
tion from  its  name,  Bathu,4  derived  from  the  depth  of  its  port, 
which  is  secure  and  extensive.  Strabo, 5  in  his  description  of  this 
coast,  in  approaching  Chalcis  from  Attica,  mentions  a  port  called 
Btxdvs  :  his  words  are  st]a,  Xi^v  (isyug,  ov  xaXoviri  Baflvv  Xi^iva,  uff  n 
AvXt;,  "  afterwards  there  is  a  great  port  which  they  call  the  deep 
port ;  after  this  is  Aulis."  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  in  this  de- 
scription he  alludes  to  the  port  at  present  called  Bathu. 

Probably  the  greater  part  of  the  Grecian  fleet  assembled  in  this 
port,  as  that  of  Aulis  was  not  sufficiently  capacious.  Its  diminutive 
size  seems  to  be  alluded  to  by  Euripides,4  when  he  says, 

Taj  y  AvXiSo;  rtvovopois 
Offt,oi(. 


B.  15.  c.  27.  •  Signifying  deep,  and  pronounced  Vathi.  '  B.  9.  p.  403. 

♦  Ipliig.  in  Aulid.  v.  1496. 


PLAIN  OF  DELION.  155 

Half  an  hour  further  we  saw  a  modern  tower  on  a  hill  to  the  right, 
about  one  mile  from  the  road,  near  a  village  named  Arabiki. 
Here  are  the  imperfect  remains  of  a  city  of  small  dimensions. 
The  town  of  Delion  and  temple  of  Apollo  must  have  been  in  this 
vicinity :  Strabo '  places  it  thirty  stadia  from  Aulis.  We  tra- 
versed the  plain  in  which  the  Thebans  obtained  a  victory  over 
the  Athenians,5  and  where  Socrates  saved  Xenophon  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  his  enemies,  by  carrying  him  many  stadia  on  his 
back.3  According  to  Plutarch,4  it  was  Alcibiades  who  saved  So- 
crates at  this  battle.  It  would  appear  from  Livy,5  that  Delion  was 
near 6  the  sea,  five  miles  from  Tanagra,  and  situated  where  the  gulf 
was  less  than  four  miles  broad.  We  are  informed  by  Strabo,7  that 
there  was  a  town  near  Aulis  called  Hyria. 

About  two  hours  and  twenty  minutes  from  Bathu,  a  town  was 
visible  on  a  hill  to  our  right.  After  ascending  an  elevation,  we 
overlooked  a  rich  vale,  in  which  there  was  an  intermixture  of 
arable  and  pasture,  interspersed  with  fine  oaks,  firs,  platani,  and 
fruit  trees,  principally  pears  and  figs.  In  one  hour  and  twenty 
minutes  we  reached  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  plain ;  and  making 
an  ascent  amongst  small  eminences,  arrived  in  another  hour  at  a 
village  called  Boiati,  where  we  experienced  an  inhospitable  re- 
ception at  the  cottage  of  an  Albanian  Musulman :  these  fellows 
are  generally  vicious,  and  uncivil  to  strangers. 


TO  OROPOS  AND  MARATHON. 

On  the  20th  we  quitted  our  surly  host,  and  having  ascended  a 
hill  covered  with  small  firs  and  bushes,  came  in  sight8  of  the  plain 

1  B.  9.  p.  403.  5  424-  years  B.  C.         s  Strabo,  Ioc.  cit.  *  Life  of  Alcibiades. 

*  B.  35.C.51.  6  Imminens  mari.     Ibid.  7  B.9-  p.  404. 

8  The  bearings  from  this  spot  are  as  follows :  Parnassos  N.  75  W.     Mount  Delphi,  in 
Eubcea,  N.  27.  30".    E. 

X  2 


IjG  ruins  of  oropos. 

and  ruins  of  Oropos,  and  the  gulf  and  mountains  of  Euboea.  The 
sea  has  the  appearance  of  greater  breadth  than  Thucydides'  allows 
it  in  this  part,  for  he  asserts  that  Eretria,  in  Euboea,  is  not  sixty 
stadia  from  Oropos.  Strabo  *  says  that  there  are  only  forty  stadia 
between  these  places,  which  must  be  an  erroneous  computation. 
Eretria  and  its  plain  were  clearly  distinguished  :  CEchalia  and  Ama- 
rynthos'  were  in  its  vicinity.  Oropos  is  now  called  Ropo,  and  con- 
tains only  few  and  imperfect  ruins.  Some  architectural  fragments 
in  marble  are  dispersed  about,  and  the  traces  of  the  acropolis  wall 
may  be  discovered  on  a  neighbouring  hill. 

Oropos  appears  about  a  mile  from  the  sea,  where  it  had  two  small 
contiguous  ports.  Near  the  village  is  the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent;  but 
its  refreshing!:  streams4  and  cool  fountains  have  shared  the  fate  of 
Amphiaraus,  and  are  for  ever  sunk  within  the  bowels  of  the  earth! 

We  observed  no  certain  traces  of  the  neighbouring  Graia,  which 
was  on  the  road  to  Athens,  nor  of  the  temple  of  Amphiaraus,5  nor 
of  the  monument  of  Narcissos.6  But  we  did  not  indeed  employ 
sufficient  time  in  exploring  the  curiosities  of  this  place,  owing  to  the 
excessive  heat,  and  the  feverish  debility  which  was  produced  by  an  ex- 
posure during  so  many  days  to  the  unmitigated  violence  of  the  sun. 
The  doubtful  situation  of  Oropos,  whether  in  the  Athenian  or  Boeotian 
territory,  was  the  cause  of  frequent  contest  between  those  by  whom 
it  was  alternately  subjected.7 

The  ruins  of  Tanagra  still  remain,  under  the  name  of  Gremata, 
about  six  miles  to  the  west-north-west  of  Oropos.  The  walls,  towers, 
and  a  theatre  are  seen,  beside  some  fragments  of  Ionic  columns.8 
Delphinion  and  the  sacred  port9  were  twenty  stadia  from  Oropos. 


1  B.  8.  c.  13.  !  B.  9.  p.  403.  3  Strabo,  b.  10.  p.  44b". 

*  Livy,  speaking  of  Oropos,  says,  "  Templumque  vetustum  est,  fontibus  rivisque  circa 
amsnum,  b.  45.  c.  27. 

This  celebrated  temple  and  oracle  was  only  twelve  stadia  from  Oropos.     Pausan.  b.  I. 


i 
c.  34 


6  ft^tiM.     Strabo.  »  Strabo.  b.  1.  p.  65.  b.  9.  p.  399.      Pausan.  b.  I.  c.  34. 

8  I  am  indebted  for  this  information  to  C.  R.  Cockerell,  Esq.  who  visited  the  ruins. 

9  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  403. 


PLAIN  OF  MARATHON.  257 

We  resumed  our  route,  and  passed  by  a  church,  and  through  a  small 
forest  of  firs.  In  an  hour  and  forty  minutes  we  saw  a  monastery  to 
the  right.  The  soil  of  the  plain  was  parched,  and  of  a  light  colour : 
Dicsearchus"  observes  that  it  is  white  and  argillaceous.  We  passed 
through  alargevillagenamed  Marcopoli, enriched  with  fine  trees,  vine- 
yards, and  olive  groves.  Here  are  some  imperfect  vestiges  of  antiquity, 
and  a  little  beyond  the  village  is  a  copious  fountain,  which  forms  a 
stream  ;  in  the  vicinity  of  a  church,  where  there  is  a  bas-relief  of  two 
draped  figures,  in  good  style,  but  indifferent  preservation,  as  the  heads 
have  been  broken.  This  place  is  one  hour  and  three  quarters  from  Oro- 
pos,  and  cannot  be  the  situation  of  the  temple  of  Amphiaraus,  which 
was  only  twelve  stadia  from  that  town.  We  proceeded,  and  in  an 
hour  crossed  six  rivulets.  From  an  eminence,  we  had  a  view  of  Pen- 
telikon,  Hymettos,  and  Parnes.  In  two  hours  and  fifty  minutes 
from  Marcopoli,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Kapandriti,  that  was 
enriched  with  mulberry  trees,  and  surrounded  with  fine  corn  fields. 
In  two  hours  and  forty  minutes  from  Kapandriti,  we  reached  the 
village  of  Marathona,  having,  in  our  way,  crossed  over  nine  streams, 
and  passed  by  several  small  churches  and  scattered  traces  of  an- 
tiquity, the  original  destination  of  which  cannot  be  ascertained. 

This  village,  which  is  about  three  miles  from  the  sea,  and  at  a 
shorter  distance  from  the  foot  of  Pentelikon,  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
spots  in  Attica,  and  is  enriched  with  many  kinds  of  fruit  trees;  par- 
ticularly walnuts,  figs,  pomegranates,  pears,  and  cherries.  On  our 
arrival,  the  fine  country  girls,  with  attractive  looks  and  smiling 
faces,  brought  us  baskets  of  fruit.  Some  of  them  appeared  un- 
willing to  accept  our  money  in  return  ;  and  the  spontaneous  civility 
and  good  humour  of  the  inhabitants  soon  convinced  us  that  we  were 
in  Attica,  where  they  are  more  courteous  to  strangers  than  in  other 
parts  of  Greece. 

The  Marathonian  plain  has  been  so  often  described,  by  ancient 


1  Stat.  Giaec. 


158  PLAIN  OF  MARATHON. 

as  well  as  by  modern  authors,  that  a  detailed  account  of  it  in  this 
place  could  be  little  more  than  a  repetition  of  what  others  have 
said.  I  shall  therefore  confine  myself  to  a  few  necessary  observa- 
tions on  this  memorable  spot. 

Marathon,  though  only  a  small  place  at  the  time  of  the  battle, 
was  originally  one  of  the  four  cities,  and  founded  by  an  Attic  king, 
or  hero, '  who  gave  it  his  name  ;  though,  according  to  Plutarch,2  who 
cites  the  authority  of  Dicaearchus,  it  OAved  its  origin  to  Marathos, 
an  Arcadian,  who  was  in  the  army  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  in  Attica. 
Cornelius  Nepos !  asserts,  that  Marathon  is  only  ten  miles  from  Athens, 
in  which  he  has  been  generally  followed  by  other  authors.  But  this 
distance  is  considerably  underrated.  Corsini4  and  Dr.  Chandler5 
make  it  only  eighty  stadia,  and  Dr.  Gillies6  makes  it  thirty  miles. 
It  is,  however,  eighteen  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  Athens  to  the 
village  of  Marathon ;  and,  by  the  shortest  road  over  the  southern 
foot  of  Pentelikon,  it  is  at  least  twenty-two  miles  to  the  beginning 
of  the  plain.  Dr.  Gillies  is  accordingly  nearer  the  truth  than  his 
predecessors. 

The  plain,  which  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and  two  in  breadth, 
is  at  present  composed  of  corn  and  pasture  land.  Great  part  of  it, 
however,  is  in  a  state  of  desolate  neglect,  and  overgrown  with  thistles 
and  bushes.  The  countrymen  were  reaping  the  corn,  and  a  great  quan- 
tity of  cattle  were  feeding  in  the  uncultivated  parts.  A  large  tu- 
mulus of  earth  rises  from  the  middle  of  the  plain ;  and  nearer  the  sea, 
close  to  a  marsh,  are  two  others,  composed  of  small  stones,  and  much 
lower  than  the  former.  Pausanias7  mentions  two  sepulchres3  in  the 
plain  ;  that  of  the  Athenians,  and  that  of  the  Boeotians  and  slaves,  be- 
sides the  monument9  of  Miltiades.  The  same  author  conjectures  that 
the  Persians  wei;e  buried  in  a  pit;  for  he  says,  that  he  saw  no  tumulus," 


'  Pausan.  b.  1.  c.  15.  '  Life  of  Theseus.  '  Life  of  Miltiades. 

1  Fasli  Attici.  s  Travels  in  Greece.         6  Hist,  of  Greece. 

7  B.  1.  c.  32.  "  7«p«i.         9  (tyyi^a.  10  %tt-/xa. 


a 

& 

h 

r 

-' 

& 

o 

E> 

2 

< 

J 

! 

-' 

t- 

rr 

Z 

PLAIN  OF  MARATHON, 


159 


nor  any  monument '  whatever  erected  over  their  remains.  The  great 
tumulus  has  been  opened,  but  without  success;  because  it  was  not 
excavated  to  a  sufficient  depth.  It  is  singular  that  no  ancient 
armour  has  ever  been  found  in  the  plain  of  Marathon,  nor  scarcely  any 
relics  of  the  many  thousands  who  perished  in  this  memorable  field. 
Time  may  bring  to  light  some  interesting  particulars ;  and  a  proper 
examination  of  the  tumuli  would  be  productive  of  objects  of  interest 
to  the  antiquarian  and  the  historian.  — 

Scilicet  et  tempus  veniet,  cum  finibus  illis 
Agricola,  incurvo  terram  molitus  aratro, 
Exesa  inveniet  scabra  robigine  pila ; 
Aut  gravibus  rastris,  galeas  pulsabit  inanes, 
Grandiaque  effbssis  niirabitur  ossa  sepulcris.* 

I  found  in  the  large  tumulus  some  fragments  of  coarse  pottety, 
and  a  great  manysmall  arrow  heads3  of  black  flint,  which  probably 
belonged  to  the  Persian  army. 

Size  of  the  Originals. 


1   Athens,  lead. 


2  Attica,  bronze. 


3  Marathon,  Hint. 


1  Xiijueioy. 
'  Virgil.  Georg.  1.  v.  493. 

"  The  time,  at  length,  shall  come  when  lab'ring  swains, 

As  with  their  ploughs  they  turn  these  famous  plains, 

'Gainst  hollow  helms  their  heavy  drags  shall  strike, 

And  clash  'gainst  many  a  sword  and  rusty  pike  ; 

View  the  vast  graves  with  horror  and  amaze, 

And  at  huge  bones  of  giant  heroes  gaze." 

Walton's  Virgil. 

J  See  No.  3.  of  the  annexed  plate. 


160  PLAIN  OF  MARATHON. 

According  to  the  testimony  of  Herodotus,'  the  ^Ethiopians,  who 
formed  part  of  the  army  of  Xerxes  in  Greece,  had  darts,  the  heads 
of  which,  instead  of  iron,  were  of  pointed  stone,  which  they  used 
also  in  cutting  their  seals.     ^Ethiopians  were  represented  on  the  cup, 
which  was  in  the  right  hand  of  the  statue  of  Nemesis  at  Rhamnos, 
which  was  made,  after  the  battle,  from  a  block,  which  the  Persians 
had  brought  from  Paros  to  erect  as  a  trophy  after  their  vainly  an- 
ticipated victory !     Pausanias2  is  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  /Ethiopians  on  the  cup;  but  the  reason  seems  suf- 
ficiently evident.     This  is  the  only  part  of  Greece  where  1  found 
arrow-heads  of  flint:  those  of  bronze5  are  common  on  the  spots 
where  battles  have  been  fought.     They  are  generally  not  above  an 
inch  in  length  ;  and  some  of  them  are  so  much  smaller  that  it  is  pro- 
bable their  points  were  poisoned.     That  this  practice  was  sometimes 
resorted  to,  we  know  from  the  testimony  of  Homer.4 

ia^ax'jv  av$%C($<c>yOY  Sity-jpevt;,  otya  01  tit) 

Almonds  of  lead  are  also  sometimes  found  in  the  plain,  and  in 
different  parts  of  Attica;  and  are  generally  not  larger  than  that 
fruit  with  the  shell  on.  They  were  used  by  slingers,  and  are  some- 
times inscribed.  That  which  is  here  published5  was  found  at  Athens : 
its  inscription  may  be  a  proper  name,  or  perhaps  a  composite 
epithet,  signifying  illustrious  in  victory.  Another,  which  was  found 
at  the  same  place,  is  double  the  usual  size.  On  one  side  is  inscribed 
AESAI,  "  receive  it/' and  on  the  other  is  a  thunderbolt  in  relief.6 


1  B.   7.   c.  6y.      The  battle  was  fought  490  years  B.   C,  in  the  month  Metageiton,  ac- 
cording to  Corsini,  on  the  28th  of  September.     Fast.  Attic,  v.  3.  p.  150. 

2  B.  1.  c.  33.  *  See  No.  2.  of  the  annexed  plate. 

*  Odyss.  1.  v.  261.     "  To  taint  with  deadly  drugs  the  barbed  dart." — Pope. — The  bronz 
arrow-heads  commonly  found  in  Attica  are  perhaps  Persian,  as  they  exactly  resemble  some 
found  in  Persia  by  Mr.   Morier.     See  the  2d  Tour  in  Persia,  by  J.  Morier,  Esq.,  4to. 
London,  1813.  s  See  No.  1.  of  the  annexed  plate. 

6  In  the  collection  of  Mr.  Burgon.   Stuart  has  published  an  almond  of  lead  with  a  thun- 
derbolt  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  AE3AC.     Vol.  3.  c.  4. 


PLAIN  OF  MARATHON.  161 

Others  of  the  common  size  were  inscribed  Q*>IAinn02,  and  others 
ETEPAIKKAS.  They  have  been  found  at  Corfu  with  the  word 
KAAI2TPATOT,  which  appears  to  be,  like  the  KAEONIKOT,  above- 
mentioned,  an  epithet  rather  than  a  name. 

It  is  evident,  from  the  story  of  Philip  of  Macedon,  and  Aster  of 
Amphipolis,  that  it  was  sometimes  customary  to  inscribe  missile 
weapons ;  and  we  know  from  Polysenus,1  that  Kleonymos,  the  Lace- 
daemonian king,  at  the  siege  of  Trcezen,  ordered  an  inscription  to 
be  made  on  the  missile  weapons  that  were  thrown  into  that  city. 
When  Athens  was  besieged  by  Sylla,  the  missile  weapons,  ise<r<roi,  were 
also  inscribed,  as  we  know  from  the  testimony  of  Appian.2  Leaden 
bullets  are  alluded  to  by  Appian'  in  the  words  @i\«ri  poXvQc&imts,  and 
by  Statius4  in  the  word  glandes : 

stridentia  funda, 

Saxa  pluunt;  volucres  imitantur  fulgura  glandes. 

The  Hernici  of  Italy,  according  to  Virgil, s  used  the  same  weapon : 

Pars  maxima  glandes 

Liventis  plumbi  spargit. 

But,  to  return  to  the  plain  of  Marathon,  the  two  smaller  tumuli 
are  surrounded  by  a  marsh ;  and  several  blocks  of  stone  and  sepul- 
chral stela,  of  marble  are  lying  near  them.  The  marsh  is  formed  by 
a  small  stream,  which  descends  from  the  hills  and  enters  the  sea  near 
this  place.  This  is  probably  the  same  marsh,  in  which,  according 
to  Pausanias,6  a  great  many  Persians  perished.  In  an  excavation, 
which  was  made  here  some  years  ago,  the  marble  busts  of  Socrates, 
Lucius  Verus,  and  Marcus  Aurelius,  were  found,  with  another 
of  an  unknown  person,  which,  however,  has  been  attributed7  to 
Herodes  Atticus.     They  are  sculptured  with  great  care,  and  highly 


1  Stratag.  b.  2.  c.  19.         *  De  Bell.  Mithrid.  192,  193.  3  De  Bell.  Mithrid.  192. 

4  Theb.  b.  8.  v.  418.         5  vEneid,  1.  v.  686.  6  B.  1.  c.  32. 

7  See  Catalog.  d'Antiq.  &c.  de  F.  M.  Le  Cte.  De  Choiseul  Gouffier,  par  L.  I.  I.  Dubois, 
p.  21.     Paris,  1818. 

VOL.  II.  Y 


162  CAVE  OF  PAN. 

finished.'  In  the  same  excavation  was  discovered  an  antefix"  of 
terra  cotta,  ornamented  with  the  usual  foliage,  and  inscribed 
A0HNAIOT.  It  is  difficult  to  decide  whether  this  word  relates  to 
an  Athenian,  or  to  a  person  named  Athenoeus.  Gold  darics '  have 
sometimes  been  found  at  Marathon,  but  not  in  such  numbers  as 
might  be  expected. 

We  visited  the  cave  of  Pan,  of  which  Pausanias4  gives  so  exagge- 
rated an  account,  that  it  appears  probable  that  he  was  satisfied 
with  the  details  which  he  received  from  the  people  of  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  was  deterred  from  exploring  its  winding  recesses  by  the 
smallness  and  inconvenience  of  the  aperture.  It  is  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  from  the  village,  and  is  situated  a  short  way  up  a 
steep  and  rocky  hill.  We  entered  this  cave  with  all  the  ardour  of 
impatient  curiosity,  which  was  followed  by  the  usual  disappoint- 
ment. After  creeping  for  some  time  on  our  knees,  and  descrjing 
only  a  few  small  chambers  covered  with  coarse  stalactite,  we  forced 
our  way  with  considerable  trouble,  through  some  low  and  narrow 
passages,  where  the  only  gratification  for  our  pains  was  an  opportu- 
nity of  observing  the  rocks  marked  with  the  names  of  some  of  our 
countrymen,  who,  like  ourselves,  had  probably  been  deceived  by 
the  description  of  Pausanias. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  Pan s  is  the  fountain  Makaria,  which 
was  evidently  much  ornamented.  Part  of  a  well-built  circular  wall, 
composed  of  large  regular  blocks,  still  remains ;  and  several  other 
ruins  and  traces  are  confusedly  scattered  in  the  vicinity.  The  water 
is  clear  and  copious,  and  after  issuing  from  the  rock,  forms  a  rapid 
stream,  which  is  shaded  by  the  elegant  oleander,  of  surprising 
height.      This  stream  sometimes  overflows  in  winter,  occasioning 


'  They  were  bought,  in  1818,  by  the  Count  de  Portalis,  at  the  sale  of  the  late  Count  de 
Choiseul  Goum'er,  at  Paris. 

■  There  is  a  similar  antifix  in  the  British  Museum. 

1  There  is  one  m  Mr.  Burgou's  collection,  which  was  found  at  this  place. 
IS.  1.  c.  33.  5  Uavos  Opos.  Pausan.  Ioc.  cit. 


ATTIC  TETRAPOLIS.  163 

great  damage  to  the  neighbouring  fields.  The  year  after  we  had 
been  at  Marathon  it  inundated  a  considerable  space,  sweeping  away 
a  mill  that  was  upon  its  banks,  and  depriving  several  individuals  of 
their  lives.  It  is  the  ancient  Charadros.  When  Eurystheus1  was 
killed  at  Marathon  by  Iolaos  and  the  sons  of  Hercules,  his  head 
was  buried  at  Trikoruthos,  near  to  the  carriage  road,  and  to  the 
fountain  Makaria,  which  took  its  name  from  a  daughter  of  Her- 
cules.1 These  children  of  Hercules  resided  in  the  Attic  Tetrapolis, 
which  consisted  of  Marathon,  Trikoruthos,  Probalinthos,  and  Oenoe,5 
which  were  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Xuthos,4  son  of  Helenos, 
and  grandson  of  Deucalion.  Time  has  not  destroyed  all  the  re- 
mains of  these  four  cities,  which  were  situated  on  the  eastern  side 
of  Pentelikon.  Marathon  and  Oenoe  still  retain  their  names ;  the 
traces  of  the  latter  are  to  be  seen  near  the  cave  of  Pan. 

We  rested  under  the  shade  of  some  Balania  oaks,  near  the  foot  of 
Pentelikon,  and  took  a  general  view  of  the  plain,  with  Euboea,  An- 
dros,  Tenos,  and  some  of  the  distant  Cyclades. 


TO  THE  MONASTERY  OF  PENTELE. 

On  the  21st  we  quitted  the  hospitable  village  of  Marathona,  and 
proceeding  towards  Pentelikon,  observed  two  villages,  named  Ochere 
and  Braona,  situated  on  its  foot  to  our  right. 

To  our  left  was  a  round  insulated  hill,  resembling  an  artificial 
tumulus ;  but  it  is  too  large  to  be  the  work  of  art.  We  began  to 
ascend  the  south-east  foot  of  Pentelikon,  and  passed  through  a  scat- 
tered olive  grove,  after  which  we  stopped  a  short  time  at  a  deserted 

1  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  377.        *  Pausan.  b.  1.  c.  32.        3  Stiabo,  b.  8.  p.  383.         *  Ibid. 

y2 


164  THE  TETTIX. 

monastery  named  Dau,  all  the  monks  of  which  were  many  years 
ago  murdered  by  some  thieves,  confederated  with  an  inferior  monk, 
who  was  a  servant  of  the  convent.  The  mountain  here  becomes 
feathered  with  firs,  olives,  poplars,  and  fruit-trees,  and  refreshed 
with  small,  rapid,  and  clear  streams,  running  towards  the  Athenian 
plain,  where  some  of  them  disappear  in  the  thirsty  soil,  while  others 
enter  the  Cephissos.  We  passed  eight  of  these  rivulets  between  the 
monastery  of  Dau  and  that  of  Pentele,  where  we  reposed  during  the 
night.  We  then  visited  the  ancient  marble  quarries,  which  I  have 
described  in  a  former  part  of  my  tour. ' 


TO  ATHENS. 


On  the  22d  of  June  we  proceeded  to  Athens,  and,  descending  by 
circuitous  ways,  arrived  in  thirty  minutes  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains. We  soon  after  observed  a  tumulus,  a  church,  and  a  dry  water- 
course to  the  right,  with  Parnes  closing  in  the  plain  in  that  direc- 
tion. To  the  left  was  Hymettos,  and  in  front  Anchesmos,  Athens, 
with  the  Saronic  gulf,  its  islands,  and  the  mountains  of  Pelopon- 
nesos.  We  must  have  passed  over,  or  near,  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Pallene,  which  was  in  the  tribe  Antiochis,  and  on  the  way  from 
Athens  to  Marathon.  It  was  celebrated  for  a  temple  of  Minerva, 
and  for  a  battle  gained  over  the  Athenians  by  the  Pisistratidas. 

As  soon  as  we  entered  the  olive  grove,  our  ears  were  greeted  with 
the  shrill  song  of  innumerable  tettiges.  The  sun  was  overpower- 
ing; but  Avhile  the  different  orders  of  vegetable  and  animal  life 
drooped  with  languor  under  the  intensity  of  the  heat,  it  appeared  to 

1  Vol.  1.  c.  14. 


THE  TETTIX.  16'5 

animate  these  insects  with  exhilarating  joy.  Nothing  is  so  piercing 
as  their  note ;  nothing  so  tiresome  and  inharmonious  as  the  musical 
tettix,  Avhose  song  appears  to  have  been  so  pleasing  to  the  ancients : 

1  HJuettij;  TiWifyy  i<royga,<po;  o»  9'  ExaJij/wu 
Atvtigui  sfyegoptvoi  oita,  XEipiosircrav  i£(cri. 

3  Et  cantu  querulse  rumpent  arbusta  cicadas. 

The  following  passage,  which  is  taken  from  White's  History  of 
Selborne,'  may  in  some  degree  account  for  the  partiality  which  the 
Greek  poets  seem  to  have  had  for  the  inharmonious  music  of  the 
tettix  :  "  Swifts  are  no  songsters,  and  have  only  one  harsh  scream- 
ing note ;  yet  there  are  ears  to  which  it  is  not  displeasing,  from  an 
agreeable  association  of  ideas,  since  that  note  never  occurs  but  in 
most  lovely  summer  weather."  The  following  observation4  of  the 
same  author  is  still  more  to  the  present  purpose  :  "  Sounds  do  not 
always  give  us  pleasure  according  to  their  sweetness  and  melody, 
nor  do  harsh  sounds  always  displease.  We  are  more  apt  to  be  cap- 
tivated or  disgusted  with  the  associations  which  they  promote  than 
with  the  notes  themselves.  Thus,  the  shrilling  of  the  field  cricket, 
though  sharp  and  stridulous,  yet  marvellously  delights  some  hearers, 
filling  their  minds  with  a  train  of  summer  ideas  of  every  thing  that 
is  rural,  verdurous,  and  joyful." 

At  the  village  of  Ampelo  Kepous  we  noticed  a  fountain,  the  re- 
ceptacle of  which  was  made  by  the  father  of  the  present  disdar  of 
Athens :  the  svater  falls  into  a  trough  of  marble,  part  of  the  archi- 
trave of  the  Athenian  Erechtheion,  which  has  been  hollowed  out,  for 
the  purpose  of  affording  water  to  horses  and  cattle.  The  beautiful 
ornaments  which  are  on  the  exterior  of  the  fountain  will,  in  a  few 
years,  be  obliterated  by  the  friction  of  the  animals.  On  my  arrival 
at  Athens  I  offered  the  disdar  a  considerable  sum  for  this  precious 


1  Diogen.  Laert.  b.  3.  scg.  7.   Plato — "from  whose  mouth  flowed  melody,  as  the  tettiges 
with  their  pleasant  voice  sing  on  the  trees  of  Academe." 

%  Virgil.  Georg.  3.  v.  328.  3  P.  185.  *  P.  252. 


166  ARRIVAL  AT  ATHENS. 

relick ;  but,  though  he  was  notorious  for  his  love  of  money,  he  re- 
fused to  sell  it,  observing  that  it  would  be  impious  in  him  to  take 
down  what  his  father  had  erected. 

We  passed  near  the  monastery  of  Asomatos,  at  the  south-east 
foot  of  Anchesmos,  and,  to  our  great  satisfaction,  entered  Athens  in 
the  evening,  after  a  fatiguing  journey  of  thirty-six  days,  in  which 
time  we  had  traversed  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  countries 
of  ancient  history. 

We  passed  the  remainder  of  the  summer  at  Athens,  making 
occasional  excursions  about  the  surrounding  country,  which  I  have 
already  described. 

Having  at  length  finished  all  our  observations  at  Athens,  and 
taken  almost  every  possible  view  of  its  ancient  monuments  and 
interesting  spots,  we  finally  quitted  it  with  much  regret.  I  felt  as  if 
I  were  parting  from  a  friend  whom  I  should  never  see  again,  but  of 
whom  I  possessed  numerous  portraits  in  a  great  diversity  of  circum- 
stances, by  which  the  hours  of  our  former  intercourse  might  be 
distinctly  recalled,  and  our  ancient  intimacy  renewed  by  the  force 
of  the  most  animated  recollections.  Great  indeed  is  the  delight 
which  I  have  experienced  in  reviving  the  impressions  which  these 
captivating  scenes  have  made  upon  my  mind,  and  which  the  in- 
spection of  my  various  drawings  never  fails  to  reproduce. 

When  I  quitted  Athens,  in  order  to  prosecute  my  journey  through 
the  Peloponnesos,  I  was  accompanied  by  a  Turkish  servant,  named 
Ibrahim,  of  Philiatra,  a  village  in  Messenia,  who  was  characterized 
by  fidelity,  probity,  and  courage.  He  was  besides  no  mean  pro- 
ficient in  the  culinary  art,  which  constitutes  a  qualification  of  no 
trifling  utility  in  this  country.  Amongst  his  valuable  negative 
accomplishments  was  that  of  taciturnity  during  the  journey;  for, 
to  my  great  satisfaction,  he  had  neither  the  taste  nor  the  talent  for 
singing.  He  was  a  rigid  Musulman,  never  drank  wine,  and  fasted 
most  scrupulously  during  the  month  of  Ramazan.  This  fast  is  one 
of  the  divine  precepts  of  Islamism ;  and  during  that  time  a  good 
Musulman  neither  eats,  drinks,  nor  smokes,  but  observes  a  rigid 


FINAL  DEPARTURE  FROM  ATHENS.  107 

abstinence  from  sunrise  to  sunset.  Travellers,  and  sick  persons, 
are  excepted  from  the  performance  of  this  austere  duty ;  but  some, 
like  Ibrahim,  are  too  scrupulous  to  avail  themselves  of  this  indulgence. 
Wealthy  Musulmans  turn  night  into  day  during  Ramazan,  as  they 
eat  several  times  from  sunset  to  sunrise,  and  pass  the  night  in  re- 
velling and  feasting,  as  a  compensation  for  the  mortifications  of  the 
day.  But,  though  Ibrahim  was  sometimes  on  horseback  during  the 
entire  clay,  his  regard  for  the  rules  of  the  Mohamedan  ceremonial 
was  so  undeviating,  that  no  consideration  could  ever  induce  him  to 
take  any  refreshment  till  the  sun  had  gone  down,  though  I  have 
seen  him  parched  with  thirst,  and  faint  with  hunger  and  fatigue. 
He  took  a  second  moderate  meal  before  break  of  day,  and  when  I 
joked  him  upon  the  subject,  his  answer  was,  "  Let  every  man  follow 
the  precepts  of  his  religion :  If  I  did  not  fast  in  Ramazan  I  should 
be  a  bad  Musulman,  and  you  know  I  am  not  a  Jew,  nor  a  Christian  ; 
you  would  therefore  have  with  you  a  man  without  religion,  and  con- 
sequently without  that  fear  of  Allah  which  prevents  us  from  com- 
mitting dishonest  and  wicked  actions."  Such  sentiments  in  a  com- 
mon peasant  are  not  often  met  with.  His  arms  consisted  in  a 
topaike,  or  long  gun,  two  long  silver-hilted  pistols,  and  a  knife, 
or  khandgear.  I  was  also  attended  by  Georgio  Stathi,  a  Greek 
servant,  and  the  agogiates  to  whom  the  horses  belonged. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Departure  from  Athens — To  Eleusis — Mystic  way — Monastery  of  Daphne — Votive  rock — Sacred 
springs — Bethels — Eleusis — Mount  Kerata — Megara — Its  territory  and  ports — Extensive 
view — Mount  Gerania — Derbeni — Magnificent  view — Isthmus  of  Corinth — Remains  of  the 
great  foss,  and  Isthmian  walls — The  Acrocorinthos — Beauty  of  the  view  from  its  vicinity — 
Doric  temple — Port  Kenchreai — Bath  of  Helena — Ancient  sepulchres  near  the  village  of 
Mertesa — Excavations — Terra  cotta  vase — Mouth  of  an  ancient  well  at  Corinth. 

TO  ELEUSIS. 

A  HE  day  of  our  departure  from  Athens  was  so  fine  as  to  appear 
like  summer,  although  the  28th  of  November.  In  the  early  part  of 
the  month,  however,  the  weather  had  been  severe:  the  snow  remained 
two  days  on  the  plain,  and  the  Attic  mountains  were  covered  for 
near  a  week,  during  which  time  we  suffered  extremely  from  the  cold, 
owing  to  the  thin  and  ill-built  walls  of  the  Athenian  houses,  and  to 
the  imperfect  fabrication  of  the  doors  and  windows,  which  admitted 
the  cold  at  every  crack.  As  we  quitted  Athens,  those  who  met  us 
wished  us  a  happy  return  to  our  own  country ;  cuds  xaXa  sis  rov  romv 
<rcts,  which  brings  to  mind  the  expression  of  Chryses,  who,  while  he 
implores  the  Greeks  to  restore  his  daughter,  wishes  them,  in  case  of 
their  compliance,  among  other  blessings,  that  of  returning  safe  to 
their  own  homes. 


»u  8'  otti.a.8'  iKtriai. ' 


We  went  along  the  sacred  way ;  and  at  the  entrance  of  the  olive- 
grove  passed  by  the  house  of  Hali  Adgi  Agha,  and  by  the  church  of 


1  Homer,  Iliad,  1.  v.  19. 


MONASTERY  OF  DAPHNE.  169 

Agia  Sabas,  with  some  blocks  of  marble  near  it.  We  then  crossed 
a  branch  of  the  Cephissos,  by  a  small  bridge,  which  is  composed  of 
two  large  blocks  of  marble ;  and  hence  called  ho  pagpogu..  This  is 
probably  the  spot  where  the  Eleusinian  procession  rested  for  a  short 
time ;  and  where  the  Athenian  ladies  used  to  joke  with  one  another 
from  their  carriages,  which  gave  rise  to  the  word  yz<pvgifyiv,  to  joke 
at  the  bridge.1 

Near  this  bridge  is  a  marble  lion,  less  than  life,  and  of  inferior 
sculpture.  A  few  minutes  more  brought  us  to  the  church  of  St. 
Nicholas,  with  blocks  and  traces  about  it. 

We  were  twentj'-three  minutes  in  traversing  the  olive-grove.  No 
uniform  rule  is  at  present  observed  with  respect  to  the  interval 
between  the  trees.  Sometimes  I  found  it  twenty-six  feet,  and  at 
other  times  thirty-seven. 

A  short  wa}7  out  of  the  grove,  a  tumulus  is  seen  on  the  right  side 
of  the  way  :  it  has  been  opened,  and  several  blocks  of  stone  are  lying 
near  it.  Not  far  from  this  we  passed  by  other  traces ;  of  which 
the  majority  are  probably  the  remains  of  sepulchres. 

In  thirty-two  minutes  from  the  olive-grove  we  reached  the  foot  of 
a  pointed  hill,  near  the  mystic  entrance.  On  the  summit  of  the  hill 
is  the  small  church  of  Saint  Elias,  but  without  any  traces  of  an- 
tiquity. 

We  passed  by  the  monastery  of  Daphne,  which  stands  on  the 
ruins  of  a  temple,  probably  that  of  Apollo.2  When  I  was  first  in 
Greece,  some  small  Ionic  columns,  with  their  capitals,  were  still  re- 
maining. A  convenient  earthquake  is  said  to  have  demolished  the 
modern  wall  in  which  they  were  partly  immured.  The  Earl  of 
Elgin,  with  a  praise-worthy  solicitude  to  prevent  any  future  dila- 
pidations, and  animated  by  his  well-known  ardor  for  the  acqui- 
sition of  Grecian  antiquities,  had  them  sent  to  England,  and  they 
are  at  present  in  the  British  Museum. 

In  two  hours  and  ten  minutes  from  Athens  we  arrived  at  a  votive 

'  See  Dr.  Bentlev's  Dissertat.  on  Phalaris,  p.  289.  2  Pausan.  b.  1.  c.  37. 

VOL.  II.  z 


170  VOTIVE  ROCK. 

rock,  near  the  entrance  of  the  Thriasian'  plain.  In  this  rock 
are  several  niches  of  various  dimensions,  which  once  contained 
votive  offerings,  that  might  probably  be  found  by  excavating  to  a 
sufficient  depth.  Under  some  of  these  niches  are  inscriptions  in 
small  letters,  nearly  defaced :  they  are  as  follows: 

*IAHA$POAEITEI^ 
ETNIA2©  $iAA 

nreoNiKHZA  a*poaiteieteam 

0PEIT2  ENHANE0HKE 

Sufficient  is  legible  to  show  that  the  dedications  were  offered  to 
Pythonice  and  Phila,  two  women  of  great  beaut}',  to  whom  the  title 
of  Venus  was  given.  The  former  was  a  courtesan,  beloved  by  Har- 
palus,  who,  after  her  death,  caused  a  temple  to  be  erected  to  her  me- 
mory, under  the  name  of  Venus  Pythonice.  A  magnificent  monument5 
was  also  prepared  for  her  remains  on  the  Eleusinian  way.3  Phila, 
who  was  the  wife  of  Demetrius  Phalereus,  was  honoured  with  the 
dedication  of  a  temple  not  far  from  Thria,  under  the  appellation  of 
Venus  Phila.  It  was  built  by  Adamantos  of  Lampsacus,  and  called 
Philaion.  The  last  word  in  the  inscription  of  Pythonice  seems  to 
relate  to  the  demos  of  Thria,  although  the  diphthong  is  used  contrary 
to  the  authority  of  Herodotus,  Strabo,  Stephanus,  and  others. 

This  must  be  the  temple  which,  according  to  Pausanias,4  was  near 
the  hill  named  Poikilon.  Before  the  temple5  he  notices  a  wall  that 
was  composed  ugyw  ~kt6m9  and  worthy  of  being  seen.  Without 
actual  inspection  on  the  spot  it  would  be  difficult  to  determine  the 
sense  which  Pausanias  attached  to  the  word  agyos.  It  has  indeed 
several  significations,  two  of  which  are  applicable  to  a  wall,  namely, 
white  and  rough ;  and  it  has  been  a  point  of  contention  with  the 
translators  and  commentators  of  Pausanias,  whether  he  meant  that 


The  demos  of  Thria  was  probably  situated  near  the  outlet  of  the  mystic  way. — Strabo, 
b.  9.  p.  395.  '  ij.vrju.a-— Pausau.  b.  I.e.  37. 

3  See  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  17.  c.  108.— Pausau.  loc.  cit. — Athenasus  Deipnosoph,  b.  13.  c.  7. 
4  Loc.  cit.  5  vouS' 


REMAINS  OF  A  TEMPLE.  171 

the  wall  was  constructed  with  white  or  with  rough  stones.  Before 
I  have  recourse  to  the  remains  in  question,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
observe,  that  Pausanias,  when  speaking  of  white  marble,  never  uses 
the  words  ugyo;  XtHoc,  but  that  of  Xivnog  Xrfog,  or  simply  "kido?.  But 
the  wall  itself  settles  this  point  beyond  a  doubt.  The  lower  part  of  it, 
which  remains  for  the  length  of  several  yards,  and  which  is  probably 
the  peribolos,  is  composed  of  large  stones  of  the  irregular  polygonal 
form,  and  of  the  second  style  of  early  architecture.  The  date  of 
this  structure  appears  to  be  long  anterior  to  the  time  of  Pythonice 
or  Phila.  The  same  author1  also,  in  describing  the  Cyclopian  Avails 
of  Tiryns,  says  they  were  built  with  rough  stones,  ctgym  Xidm. 
Temples  were  very  rarely  composed  of  irregular  stones.  The  cella 
of  a  temple  at  Rhamnos  is  constructed  with  polygons  well  joined 
and  smoothed.2 

The  temple  of  Venus,  which  was  Doric,  seems  to  have  been 
extremely  small,  and  the  metopas  were  proportionably  much  wider 
than  those  of  larger  temples,  in  order  that  the  intercolumniation 
might  be  sufficiently  large  to  admit  people  to  pass  between  them. 
It  is  at  present  a  mass  of  ruins.  Some  marble  doves  of  the  natural 
size  have  been  found  at  the  foot  of  the  votive  rock. 

A  short  way  beyond  this  place  the  ancient  road  is  cut  in  the 
rock,  the  surface  of  which  retains  the  visible  impression  of  the 
ancient  wheels.  The  road  winds  round  the  foot  of  the  hill  for  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  from  the  votive  rock  to  the  commencement  of 
the  Thriasian  plain;  it  then  passes  the  two  salt  springs  that  are 
mentioned  by  Thucydides,3  Pausanias,"  Hesychius,5  and  others, 
which  rising  in  a  small  lake  or  marsh  enter  the  sea  near  this  place. 
They  were  called  Pefloi,  and  served  as  holy  water  for  the  multitude 
in  the  Eleusinian  procession ;  one  of  them  being  sacred  to  Ceres, 
the  other  to  Proserpine.  Pausanias6  says  that  some  imagined  that 
they  found  their  way  underground  from  the  Euripos.     The  stream 


1  B.  2.  c.  25.  2  See  Uned.  Antiq.  of  Attica.  3  B.  2.  c.  19. 

4  B.  1.  c.  38.  and  b.  2.  c.  24.  s  Lexic.  vol.  2.  p.  1107. 

6  Loc.  cit.  and  Hesycli.  Lexic.  loc.  cit. 

z  2 


172  BETHELS. 

which  they  formed  was  named  Skiros,1  and  was  the  ancient  boundary 
between  the  Athenian  and  Eleusinian  territories. 

A  tew  paces  from  the  springs  the  paved  way  begins,  and  leads  in  a 
straight  line  across  the  Thriasian  plain  to  Eleusis.  It  is  composed 
of  round  stones  of  moderate  dimensions,  like  the  streets  of  modern 
cities,  but  has  every  appearance  of  antiquity,  particularly  as  the 
traces  of  wheels  may  in  many  places  be  discriminated  upon  its 
surface.  On  our  left  hand  near  the  sea  are  several  upright  blocks 
of  stone,  which  are  irregularly  placed,  without  the  appearance  of 
ever  having  formed  part  of  an  edifice.  Similar  remains  are  observed 
in  various  parts  of  Greece,  and  I  have  been  at  a  loss  to  account  for 
their  designation.  Several  stones  are  sometimes  seen  together,  and 
at  other  times  only  one  or  two,  and  frequently  without  any  other 
traces  whatever  in  the  vicinity.  They  probably  constitute  the 
most  early  kind  of  statue,8  that  was  known  to  the  ancients  by  the 
name  of  BuUvy.oc,  or  Bethel.  Some  authors  have  imagined  that  the 
name  and  worship  of  the  baitulos  was  derived  from  the  stone  (Barfr,),, 
which  was  anointed  by  the  patriarch  Jacob.  Others  are  of  opinion 
that  it  represented  the  stone  which  was  enclosed  in  a  skin  {(oatlri) 
and  given  to  Saturn  by  Rhea,  that  it  might  be  devoured  instead  of 
Jupiter.  It  was  sometimes  considered  the  same  as  Abdir,  Abadir, 
and  Terminus.  The  adoration  of  stones  instead  of  statues,  is  men- 
tioned by  Herodotus,  Herodian,  Maximus  of  Tyre,  Prudentius,  and 
many  other  authors.  But  the  account  which  is  given  by  Pausanias' 
of  a  similar  worship,  is  particularly  applicable  to  our  present  pur- 
pose. Speaking  of  Pharai  in  Achaia,  he  says,  "  near  the  statue  of 
the  god  are  thirty  stones  of  a  quadrangular  form,  each  of  which 
is  worshipped  under  the  name  of  some  divinity;  for  the  Greeks 

'  Pausan.  b.  1.  c.  36. 
■  See  Genesis,  28.  18,  19.     Lactam.  Instit.  b.  1.   c.  20.     Eiiseb.  de  pra-parat.  Evang. 
b.  I.e.  10.     Priscian.   b.  5.  p.   647.      Hesych.  Lexic.  Photius,  p.  1062.     Varin.  Favorin. 
Lexic.   Jul.   Cacs.    Scaliger  exercit.   271.     Faber  thesau.  Joseph  Scaliger.     Casaubon  ad 
Theopli.  Gerard  J.  Vossius,  Etymol.  p.  60.     Heialdus  ad  Aruob.  b.  1.  and  others. 

3  B.  7.  c.  22. 


THE  SACRED  WAY.  173 

anciently  paid  the  same  veneration  to  rough  stones  .  as  they  after- 
wards did  to  statues."  The  same  author  mentions  many  other 
examples  of  these  shapeless  divinities  in  Greece.  They  were  some- 
times blocks  of  wood,  and  sometimes  columns  of  stone,  called  Ktoveg 
or  a-rrfKa,i.  Callimachus2  informs  us  that  Danaus  raised  a  column  at 
Lindos  instead  of  a  statue  of  Minerva — 


x<xt  yap  AQrjyyjs 


Ev  Aiv$ui  Aavccos  xiov  eOijkec  sSo;. 

and  Pausanias3  mentions  a  statue  of  Jupiter  and  another  of  Diana 
at  Sicyon,  the  former  of  which  was  shaped  like  a  pyramid,  and  the 
latter  like  a  column.  The  hermes,  or  statues  of  Mercury,  were 
originally  only  square  stones,  to  which  the  head,  then  the  feet,  and 
sometimes  the  sexual  parts,  were  subsequent  additions. 

We  crossed  the  shallow  and  almost  imperceptible  bed  of  the 
Eleusinian  Cephissos ;  and  a  little  further  on  to  the  right  of  the 
road,  observed  a  heap  of  marble  blocks,  belonging  evidently  to  a 
monument  of  some  magnificence.  Near  this  are  the  remains  of  a 
smaller  sepulchre,  but  too  much  ruined  to  afford  any  means  of  con- 
jecturing its  original  plan.  Nearer  to  Eleusis,  on  the  left  side  of 
the  way,  are  the  remains  of  a  square  edifice,  apparently  a  sepulchre. 
We  were  four  hours  and  five  minutes  in  reaching  Eleusis  from 
Athens. 

The  sacred  way  must  anciently  have  been  one  continued  line  of 
sumptuous  and  highly  embellished  edifices.  Harpocration*  informs 
us  that  Polemon  wrote  an  entire  book5  upon  its  curiosities ;  and  Pau- 
sanias,6 who  notices  only  the  principal  objects,  mentions  two  towns,7 
four  temples,  an  heroic  monument,  and  thirteen  sepulchres,  besides 
statues  and  altars.  The  Monument  of  Pythonice  must  have  been 
one  of  the  most  conspicuous.  According  to  Plutarch8  it  was  at  a  place^ 
called  Hermos,  and  cost  thirty  talents,  although  it  is  the  opinion  of 


apyot  A<0oi.         *  Fragment.  105.  Rich.  Bentleii.         '  B.  2.  c.  9.        '  Lexic.  p.  194. 
s  j3i/3Aiov  oMv.  6  B.  1.  c.  36,  37,  38. 

7  Zmpw  ywpiw  and  AaxiJa;  iJijfiOf .  8  Life  of  Phocion. 


1 74  ELEUSIS. 

the  biographer,  that  Harpalus  was  greatly  overcharged  by  Charikles, 
the  son  in  law  of  Phocion,  who  undertook  to  erect  it;  as  it  did  not 
appear  to  be  an  object  on  which  so  large  a  sum  could  have  been 
fairly  expended.  Pausanias,  however,  speaks  of  it  as  one  of  the 
finest  monuments  in  Greece. 

The  following  inscription  was  found  amongst  the  ruins  of  the 
temple  of  Ceres,  and  relates  to  something  which  was  dedicated  to 
Ceres  and  her  daughter  by  Fabius  the  Dadouchos.1 

AHMHTPIKAIKOPH 

$ABIOS 

AAA0TX02. 

The  other,  which  is  in  the  wall  of  a  cottage,  is  relative  to  a 
member  of  the  Areiopagos,  who,  at  the  same  time,  was  Agonothetes, 
who  erected  a  statue  or  a  monument  to  his  wife. 

.     .     .     IANPOT-JEINAN 

HESAPEIOXnArOTBOTAH     .... 

ArnNO0ETH2OATMn 

2A0HNHSIN$AIATNTI 

THNAPlSTHNrTN 

IOTIEPOKHPTK 


TO  MEGARA. 

As  I  had  inspected  the  ruins  of  Eleusis  in  a  former  part  of  my 
tour,  we  continued  our  journey  on  the  following  morning,  the  29th  : 

1  la  the  collection  of  the  Count  de  Choiseul  Gouffier. 


S.PbmanJi   del 


■  '  ly  3t>£**eO  Sc  3L 


1FS©M   T1HIE    TEBOTLE    ©IF     <EIE30=3    AT    iSILIET 


MOUNT  KERATA.  175 

keeping  the  Eleusinian  acropolis  on  our  left  hand,  we  passed  over 
some  of  the  ancient  paved  Avay,  and  a  short  distance  from  the  vil- 
lage went  near  an  ancient  well  and  spring,  where  the  villagers  were 
washing.  A  few  paces  farther  on  are  the  foundations  of  a  Avail,  ap- 
parently the  remains  of  a  gate :  twenty  minutes  beyond  this  we  came 
to  another  ancient  well;  either  this,  or  that  last  mentioned,  is  probably 
the  (pgtag  ccvQwov,1  or  "  flowery  well,"  where  Ceres  reposed,  and  which, 
according  to  Pausanias,  was  on  the  road  to  Megara.  Having  passed 
round  the  northern  side  of  the  acropolis  of  Eleusis,  we  approached  the 
sea,  and  in  forty  minutes  from  Eleusis  observed  some  ancient  founda- 
tions. To  our  right  rose  the  mountain,  which,  terminating  in  two 
pointed  summits,  was  formerly  called  Kerata,  and  at  present  is  deno- 
minated Kerata-Pyrgos,  from  a  ruined  tower  on  one  of  its  points.  It 
projects  towards  the  sea,  dividing  the  plain  into  two  parts.  We  passed 
over  its  base,  which  is  covered  with  small  figs  and  cypresses,  wild 
olives,  carobas,  lentiscus,  and  juniper.  From  the  top  of  the  rising 
ground,  a  straight  line  of  foundations  is  visible,  running  in  a  direction 
from  the  mountain  to  the  sea.  This  was  the8  boundary  of  the  ter- 
ritories of  Attica  and  Megaris,  from  the  period  in  which  the  latter 
was  wrested  from  Codros  by  the  Dorians.  It  is  fifty-four  minutes 
from  Eleusis. 

This  road,  as  far  as  Epidauros,  seems  formerly  to  have  been  sin- 
gularly infested  with  robbers  and  wild  beasts.  It  is  now  free  from 
both,  and  we  may  say,  with  Ovid, 

"  Quodque  suis  securus  arat  Cromyona  colonus 
Munus,  opusque  tuum  est ;  tellus  Epidauria  per  te 
Clavigeram  vidit  Vulcani  occumbere  prolem; 
Vidit  et  immitem  Cephissias  ora  Pi  ocrusten 
Geryouis  letum  vidit  cerealis  Eleusis. 
Occidit  ille  Sinis,  magnis  male  viribus  usus, 


1  Pausan.  b.  I.e.  39.  *  Strabo,  b.  9.  p.  395. 


176'  PLAIN  OF  MEGARA. 

Qui  poterat  curvare  trabes,  et  agebat  ab  alto 
Ad  terram  late  sparsurus  corpora  pinus. 
Tutus  ad  Alcathoen  Lelegeia  moenia  limes 
Composite  Scirone  patet.1 

Having  ascended  the  low  ridge  which ,  projects  from  Mount  Ke- 
rata,  we  had  a  view  of  Megara,  its  plain,  and  Mount  Gerania :  de- 
scending by  a  bad  road,  we  penetrated  some  olive  groves,  and 
observed  the  Albanians  gathering  the  fruit  and  pruning  the  trees. 
We  passed  by  some  ancient  traces,  and  blocks  of  marble,  near  which 
a  church  appears  upon  a  small  insulated  hill.  Some  other  imperfect 
remains  may  be  descried  in  entering  the  Megarean  plain. 

The  greater  part  of  the  country,  from  Eleusis,  is  uncultivated  and 
overgrown  with  bushes.  Some  arable  land  is  seen  in  the  proximity 
of  Megara.  The  soil  is  of  a  light  colour,  with  a  mixture  of  rock, 
and  apparently  unpropitious  to  cultivation.  On  arriving  at  Megara, 
we  were  hospitably  received  by  a  Greek,  who  gave  us  the  use  of  his 
house. 


1  Metam.  b.  7.  v.  435,  ct  seq. 

That  now  Cromyon's  swains  in  safety  sow 

And  reap  their  fertile  field,  to  thee  they  owe, 

By  thee  th'  infested  Epidaurian  coast 

Was  clear'd,  and  now  can  a  free  commerce  boast ; 

The  traveller  his  journey  can  pursue, 

With  pleasure  the  late  dreadful  valley  view, 

And  cry,  Here  Theseus  the  grand  robber  slew  ! 

Cephyssus'  flood  cries  to  his  rescued  shore, 

The  merciless  Procrustes  is  no  more. 

Jn  peace,  Eleusis,  Ceres'  rites  renew, 

Since  Theseus'  sword  the  fierce  Cercyon  slew  ; 

Bv  him  the  tort'rer  Sinis  was  destroyed, 

Of  strength  (but  strength  to  barb'rous  use  employ'd), 

That  tops  of  tallest  pines  to  earth  could  bend, 

And  thus  in  pieces  wretched  captives  rend. 

Inhuman  Scyron  now  has  brcath'd  his  last, 

And  now  Alcathos'  roads  securely  past. 


MEGARA.  177 

Dion  Chrysostom '  says  that  Megara  is  one  day's  journey  from 
Athens,  and  Procopius2  makes  it  210  stadia;  which  seems  to  prove 
that  travelling  in  Greece  in  their  time  was  not  more  expeditious 
than  it  is  at  present.  According  to  the  present  mode  of  travelling, 
it  takes  eight  hours  to  reach  it  from  Athens. 

Megara  is  a  miserable  town.  The  inhabitants  are  all  Greeks, 
except  the  Voivode.  The  houses  are  small,  with  flat  roofs,  similar  to 
those  in  the  islands  of  the  Archipelago.  The  soil  is  generally  steril, 
and  the  climate  insalubrious.  This  city  boasts  the  highest  antiquity. 
Its  origin  is  of  course  doubtful ;  but,  according  to  Pausanias,'  after 
it  had  been  destroyed  by  the  Cretans,  its  walls  were  rebuilt  by 
Alkathoos,  assisted  by  Apollo.  It  was  situated  on  two  hills,  called 
Karia  and  Alkathoos  ;4  from  which,  as  from  Athens,  Argos,  Patrae, 
Eleusis,  and  Corinth,  there  were  two  long  Avails,  uniting  it  with  its 
harbours  and  arsenal,  called  Nisaia,  from  Nisos,s  King  of  Megara, 
and  son  of  Pandion.  Only  one  of  these  hills  is  occupied  by  the 
modern  town ;  on  the  other,  which  is  towards  the  east,  are  some 
remains  of  the  ancient  walls,  which  are  of  the  third  style,  with  some 
mixture  of  the  second.  The  great  strength  of  this  construction,  the 
perfect,  unity  and  harmony  of  the  whole  mass,  are  wortlvy  of  the 
divine  architect;  and  it  is  surprising  that  there  are  so  few  remains 
of  its  ancient  circuit.  Scarcely  any  vestiges  can  be  found  of  the 
edifices  that  Pausanias  has  described.  The  magnificent  aqueduct, 
built  by  Theogenes,  has  disappeared.  Some  imperfect  foundations, 
and  a  large  fountain  on  the  northern  side  of  the  town,  are  the  only 
remains  of  the  celebrated  source  of  the  Sithnide  nymphs.  Of  the 
nineteen  temples,  the  traces  of  not  even  one  can  at  present  be  iden- 
tified with  any  degree  of  certainty.  One  of  them  is  marked  by 
some  fluted  frusta  of  Ionic  columns,  of  good  style.  The  numerous 
and  stately  monuments  and  sepulchres  are  also  level  with  the 
ground ;  and  there  are  few  places  in  Greece  where  the  ancient 

'  Orat.  6.  ■  De  bello  Vandal,  b.  I.e.  1.  p.  177.     Paris  edit. 

5  B.  1.  c.  41.  *  Id.  c.  40. 

*  Pindar  calls  Megara  poetically  Nio-ou  Aopo;.     Pyth.  9.  v.  161. 
VOL.   II.  A   A 


178  MEGARA. 

remains  are  so  totally  obliterated.  This  may  well  excite  the  more 
surprise ;  as,  in  their  mode  of  construction,  the  Megarians  were 
proverbial  for  solidity  and  permanence.  Tertullian,'  citing  the 
authority  of  Diogenes,  says  that  "  they  ate  as  if  they  were  to  die 
the  next  day,  and  built  as  if  they  were  to  live  for  ever."  The  sur- 
prising disappearance  of  these  edifices  may,  however,  be  attributed 
to  two  causes.  First,  to  the  nature  of  the  stone,  which  is  a  soft  and 
porous  compound  of  petrified  shells "  and  marine  substances,  that  are 
easily  decomposed,  and  crumbled  into  dust.  The  second  cause  of 
the  destruction  of  its  edifices  may  be  supposed  to  have  originated  in 
its  locality,  on  the  great  road  leading  to  and  from  the  Peninsula,  as 
well  as  its  intermediate  situation  between  two  powerful  enemies,  or 
dictatorial  friends,  the  Athenians  and  Corinthians,  with  whom  the 
Megarians  had  frequent  contests  concerning  the  boundaries  of  their 
respective  territories.  Megara  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  Deme- 
trius, and  by  the  Romans  under  Quintus  Metellus ;  and  must  have 
suffered  greatly  under  Alaric,  by  whom  it  was  pillaged.  The  few 
remains  which  had  withstood  the  ravages  of  time,  and  escaped  the 
fury  of  the  enemy,  were  destroyed  bjT  the  overbearing  tyranny  of 
the  most  serene  Venetian  republic  in  1687-  Venice  has,  however, 
experienced  the  day  of  retribution,  and  suffered  in  her  turn,  for  all 
the  incalculable  damage  which  her  malignant  domination  inflicted 
upon  the  Greeks,  and  upon  the  ancient  monuments  of  that  country. 
The  ancient  Megarians  excelled  in  nothing;  but  naval  affairs. 
Theocritus1  calls  them  aonrrsvo^lss  zgilfAoig.  They  sent  twenty  vessels4 
to  the  battle  of  Salamis,  and  5000  soldiers  against  the  Persians  at 
Plataea;5  and  their  colonies  were  numerous  and  powerful.  They 
were  nevertheless  reckoned  the  worst  people  in  Greece,  and  were 
generally  detested,  as  fraudulent  and  perfidious.  Their  military  acts 
were  few,   and  not  brilliant.     They  were  banded6  about  hy  the 


'  Apollog.  c.  39. 

•  Which  Pausanias  calls  Conchites  (Koyx'hO-     ^  13  composed  chiefly  of  cockle-shells, 
resembling  the  stnne  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  at  Olympia,  except  that  it  is  more  compact. 
5Id)l.  12.  v.27.     "  Herodot.  b.  8.  c.  45.     5  Id.  b.9.  c.  28.     a  SeeThucyd.  b.  1.  b.  2.  b.  4. 


MEGARA.  179 

Athenians  and  Corinthians;  and  had  all  the  bad  qualities  of  insolent 
slaves,  or  servile  and  dependent  friends. 

The  territory  of  Megaris,  though  small  and  unfertile,1  had,  at  one 
period,  five  towns,  besides  the  capital.  These  were,  according  to 
Scylax,2  Aigosthenai,  Pegai,  Teichos,  Geraneia,  and  Aris.  Strabo 
mentions  Tripodiskion,  Aigeirouse,  and  Polichne;  and  Pausanias 
Aigisthaina,  Pegai,  Tripodiskos,  and  Ereneia.  The  latter  ought, 
most  probably,  to  be  read  Geraneia.  Diodorus3  mentions  a  place 
in  Megaris  called  Kimolia;  but  he  leaves  it  uncertain  whether  it  was 
a  town.  The  remains  of  Pegai  are  seen  on  the  sea4  of  Halcyon;  and 
Tripodiskos5  is  supposed  to  have  been  situated  near  the  entrance  of 
the  Skironian  way,  at  the  S.  E.  foot  of  Mount  Gerania,  where  some 
ancient  vestiges  are  found.  Geraneia  was  probably  above  the  Skiro- 
nian way.  Isocrates 6  says  that  Megara  had  neither  land  nor  ports  ; 
but  its  plain  might  have  been  rendered  sufficiently  productive  for 
the  support  of  a  large  town  ;  and  its  harbours,  of  Nisaia,  and  Pegai, 
are  capacious  and  secure.  The  long  walls,  or  legs,  of  Megara,  can 
be  traced  in  many  places :  they  were  levelled  with  the  ground 7  in 
the  eighth  year  of  the  Peloponnesian  war,  but  were  restored  by 
Phocion8  about  140  years  afterwards.  They  united  the  capital  with 
its  port  and  arsenal  Nisaia,  from  which  it  was  separated  by  an  in- 
terval of  eight  stadia.9  The  port  was  formed  by  the  fortified10  island 
of  Minoa,  which  was  united  to  the  shore  by  a  bridge.  Nisaia  is  at 
present  called  Auhxcc  ExxXwicu  "  the  twelve  churches,"  and  contains 
some  vestiges  of  antiquity,  and  several  of  a  more  modern  date,  com- 
prising the  ruins  of  the  castle,  which  are  situated  on  a  pointed  hill, 
with  some  churches  at  its  base,  the  largest  of  which  is  dedicated  to 
Saint  George.  There  are  several  inscriptions  at  Megara,  most  of 
which  have  already  been  published. 

1  Strabo  calls  it  teapaXintpos,  b.  9.  p.  393. 

*  Peripl.     Some  have  imagined  that  Tei^o;  and  Yepa-vsia,  is  one  and  the  same  place. 

*  B.  11.  c.  79.  4  Now  the  gulf'  of  Libadostro.  6  See  Thucyd.  b.  4.  c.  70. 

6  De  pace.  7  Thucyd.  b.  4.  c.  109.  8  Plutaich's  Life  of  Phocion. 

9  Thucyd.  b.  4.  c.  66.  10  Thucyd.  b.  3.  c.  51.   B.  4.  c.  118.     Pausan.  b.  1.  c.  44. 

A  A  2 


180  MEGARA. 

Ceramic  vases,  and  small  figures  of  the  same  material,  are  fre- 
quently found  near  the  town  ;  but  those  which  have  been  as  yet 
discovered  are  of  a  coarse  fabric,  and  by  no  means  merit  the  praises 
that  have  been  bestowed  on  them  by  the  ancients.  Several  statues 
have  also  been  discovered  at  different  periods  :  two  of  about  ten  feet 
in  height,  and  of  white  marble,  representing  females,  were  found 
some  years  ago,  and  again  buried  by  the  inhabitants.  I  was 
assured  by  some  travellers,  who  saw  them  at  the  time  when  they 
were  discovered,  that  they  are  not  of  good  style.  Another  was 
found  a  short  time  before  my  arrival;  and  the  senseless  proprietor 
broke  it  to  pieces,  and  formed  it  into  mortars  for  pounding  coffee. 

Megara  commands  a  very  extensive  view  over  a  most  interesting 
and  beautiful  part  of  Greece.  The  coast  of  Attica,  Avith  the  moun- 
tains of  Korydallos,  Aigaleos,  Pentelikon,  and  Hymettos,  are  clearly 
distinguished ;  but  the  lower  part  of  the  coast,  towards  Athens,  is 
intercepted  by  the  island  of  Salamis.  Next  appears  the  island  of 
iEgina,  the  promontory  of  Methana,  and  the  varied  outline  of  the 
Argolic  mountains.  The  view  towards  the  west  is  closed  by  Mount 
Gerania.  The  hill  and  castle  of  Nisaia  are  seen  rising  from  the 
shore  of  the  Megaric  gulf.' 

The  brass  coins  of  Megara  are  common,  and  the  most  usual  types 
which  they  exhibit  are  the  head  of  Apollo,  the  lyre,  the  ship,  and 
dolphins.  The  silver  coins  of  this  city  are  scarce.  Three  crescents 
are  sometimes  represented  on  them,  allusive  to  the  worship  of  Diana. 
The  imperial  coins  of  Megara  are  also  common. 


TO  CORINTH. 


We  quitted  Megara  on  the  30th,  and  passed  by  the  source  of  the 
Sithnide  Nymphs.     Several  large  blocks  of  stone  are  dispersed  in 


Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  12.     Megaricus  Sinus. 


MOUNT  GERANIA.  181 

the  vicinity.  A  small  modern  aqueduct,  that  is  even  with  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  conveys  the  water  from  some  hills  called  Asias, 
where  its  source  originates.  After  we  had  passed  a  few  imperfect 
vestiges,  and  some  small  olive  plantations,  we  reached  the  foot  of 
Mount  Gerania  in  two  hours  and  thirty-four  minutes  from  Megara. 

To  our  left  was  the  bed  of  a  large  torrent,  at  present  dry.  This 
is  probably  the  channel  of  that  stream  which  used  formerly  to  inun- 
date the  plain,  and  even  to  damage  the  city. 

We  ascended  the  mountain  by  a  steep  and  winding  way ;  and  in 
ten  minutes  had  a  view  of  the  Halcyonian  gulf,  now  called  Liba- 
dostro,  which  was  on  our  right  hand.  It  forms  a  deep  bay,  which 
enters  considerably  inland.  A  few  minutes  more  brought  us  to  the 
derbeni,  or  custom-house,  which  is  the  most  rigorous  in  Greece,  as 
it  is  situated  on  the  only  pass  which  leads  to  the  Morea.  Some 
lookers  out,  who  are  constantly  stationed  at  different  elevated  parts 
of  the  mountain,  announced  our  approach  with  a  loud  shout,  the 
echo  of  which  reverberated  amongst  the  hills.  We  found  a  Turk, 
and  a  dozen  squalid  and  insolent  Albanian  soldiers  armed,  and 
standing  in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  pass.  The  derben-agha,  or 
custom-house  officer,  demanded  derbeni  parades,  or  custom-house 
money,  and  refused  to  let  us  pass  until  it  was  paid.  But,  on  my 
producing  the  ferman  of  the  sultan,  he  changed  his  tone,  and  relin- 
quished his  demand.  I  gave  him,  however,  a  piaster,  as  a  voluntary 
bacshish,  or  buona  mano,  and  some  paras  to  his  men. 

From  hence  we  had  a  view  into  the  Halcyonian  gulf,  a  part  of 
the  Corinthian  sea,  bounded  by  the  rocky  mountains  called  Ger- 
mano  and  Makriplai,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  the  villages  and  ports 
of  Elapochori,  Psatho,  and  Libadostro,  the  latter  of  which  gives  its 
name  to  this  part  of  the  gulf. 

The  rough  and  craggy  elevations,  which  run  in  concatenated 
ridges  from  Gerania  and  the  Skironian  rocks  into  the  Corinthian 
gulf,  are  the  Oneian'  mountains,  at  present  named  Makriplai,  which 


Ovtioy  ofOf.     Thucyd,  b.  4.  c.  44.     Oveta.  ofij.    Plutarch's  Cleoinenes. 


182  MOUNT  GERANIA.     SKIRONIAN  ROCKS. 

form  the  sea  of  Halcyon,  one  chain  advancing  towards  Cithreron 
and  Bceotia,  the  other  terminating  opposite  Sicyon  in  the  Olmian 
or  Akraian  promontory,  which  Plutarch1  calls  the  promontory  of 
Heraia,  from  the  Temple  of  Juno  upon  its  summit. 

The  modern  name  of  Mount  Gerania  is  Derbeni-Bouno,  or  Kake- 
Skala,  which  latter  it  takes  from  the  dangerous  road  by  the  Ski- 
ronian  way,  which  George  Phranza2  terms  ■xXa.ytov  zuxov.  The  road 
by  the  custom-house  is  modern.  The  Skironian  way,  which  is  on 
the  southern  side  of  the  mountain,  is  difficult  and  dangerous,  and 
only  used  by  foot  travellers.  I  understand  that  it  is  picturesque 
and  grand,  particularly  the  impending  rock  Moluris,  from  which  Ino 
precipitated  herself  into  the  sea  with  her  son  Melicertes  to  escape 
the  fury  of  her  husband  Athamas,  king  of  Thebes.  They  became 
marine  deities.  The  former  was  worshipped  under  the  name  of 
Leucothoe  by  the  Greeks,  and  under  that  of  Matuta  by  the 
Romans.  Melicertes  was  known  by  the  name  of  Palaunon  to  the 
Greeks,  and  by  that  of  Portumnus  to  the  Romans.  Sailors  who 
navigate  near  the  Skironian  rocks  dread  the  sudden  gusts  of  the 
wind  Skiron,  which  frequently  bursts  upon  them  from  the  mountains 
with  unexpected  violence.  The  neighbouring  sea  is  rendered  still 
more  dangerous  by  some  pointed  rocks  near  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  Ovid'  calls  the  bones  of  Skiron. 


sparsisque  lalronis 


Terra  negat  sedem,  stdem  negat  ossibus  unda 

Quaejactata  din  fertur  durasse  vetustas 

In  scopulos,  scopulis  nomen  Scironis  adhaeret. 

The  Skironian  precipices  are  two  hours  from  Megara,  and  six  from 


1  Ibid.  '  B.  I.e.  38.  p.  39.  Paris  edit. 

3  Metam.  b.  7.  444.  et  seq. 

"  But  earth  nor  sea  his  scattered  bones  would  keep, 
Which,  after  floating  long,  a  rock  became, 
Still  infamous  with  Sciron's  hated  name." 


MAGNIFICENT  VIEW  FROM  MOUNT  GERANIA.  183 

Corinth,  and  finish  at  the  beginning  of  the  isthmus  near  a  village 
named  Kineta,  supposed  to  be  situated  near  the  ancient  Cromyon. 

The  road  ascended  from  the  derbeni,  and  passed  through  a  forest 
of  pines,  with  a  great  profusion  of  beautiful  shrubs :  in  forty  mi- 
nutes we  reached  an  elevated  part  of  the  mountain,  which  com- 
mands a  most  extensive  and  animating  view.  The  whole  circum- 
ference of  the  spacious  horizon  seemed  occupied  with  classical 
regions  of  high  renown  and  of  deep  interest.  Below  us  appeared 
the  Isthmus,  the  Acrocorinthos,  the  Saronic  and  Crissaean  gulfs. 
The  more  remote  prospect  unveiled  the  soft  and  undulating  lines  of 
the  Attic  coast  and  mountains,  fading  into  the  receding  distance  of 
the  Sunium  promontory,  which  was  distinguished  as  a  speck  upon 
the  blue  aether  of  the  terminating  sky. 

The  beautifully  varied  coast  of  Argolis,  the  abrupt  and  pointed 
promontory  of  Methana,  with  the  islands  of  Kalauria,  iEgina,  and 
Salamis,  and  other  insular  rocks,  embellish  the  surface  of  the 
Saronic  gulf.  Beyond  the  Corinthian  sea  are  distinguished  the 
hills  of  Achaia,  surmounted  by  the  loftier  summits  of  Arcadia  glit- 
tering with  snow. 

Our  road  continued  along  the  steep  and  rocky  side  of  Gemma* 
through  forests  of  pines,  and  shrubberies  of  myrtles  and  lentiscus. 
We  traversed  some  cotton  grounds,  and  crossed  a  rivulet  which  finds 
its  way  down  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain  into  the  plain  of 
Megara.  Its  source  is  at  a  fountain  called  Migues,  which  is  adorned 
with  platani,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  Corinth  and  its  acropolis. 

The  summit  of  Gerania,  according  to  Pausanias,"  was  ornamented 
with  the  Temple  of  the  Aphesian  Jupiter.  In  two  hours  from  this 
fountain  we  reached  the  western  foot  of  Gerania,  and  entered  upon 
the  Isthmus,  with  the  Corinthian  gulf  on  our  right,  and  the  Saronic 
on  our  left. 

We  soon  after  crossed  a  large  foss  near  the  sea  of  Corinth.  Our 
agogiates  informed  us  that  it  was  excavated  by  the  Hellenes,  in  order 


>   B.  I.e.  4*.  yaoi- 


184  ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH. 

to  unite  the  two  seas,  but  that  the  undertaking  was  abandoned  when 
blood  was  perceived  to  issue  from  the  earth  where  they  dug.  A 
quarter  of  an  hour  more  brought  us  to  a  place  called  Kastro- 
Teichos,  where  three  thick  parallel  walls,  which  commence  at  the 
sea,  extend  towards  the  Saronic  gulf.  They  are  composed  of 
small  stones,  bricks,  and  rubbish,  and  were  constructed  to  guard  the 
entrance  into  the  Peloponnesos.  A  little  further  on  are  some  other 
remains  of  a  similar  kind.  They  are  not  built  in  a  straight  line 
across  the  Isthmus,  but  follow  the  sinuosities  of  the  ground.  The 
remains  of  the  square  towers  with  which  they  were  fortified  are  also 
visible. 

In  our  way  over  the  Isthmus  we  crossed  two  bridges  over  small 
streams  that  enter  the  Corinthian  gulf.  In  an  hour  and  three- 
quarters  from  the  foot  of  Gerania  we  arrived  at  Corinth,  and  lodged 
at  the  khan,  which  was  full  of  rats  and  mice,  and  all  kind  of  filth. 
Great  part  of  the  Isthmus  is  uncultivated,  and  in  a  perfect  state  of 
nature,  composed  of  undulating  elevations  covered  with  short  stunted 
shrubs,  and  a  few  small  firs.  Near  the  town,  however,  some  fine 
arable  land  is  seen,  and  the  soil  is  black  and  rich,  although  Strabo ' 
asserts  that  it  was  not  fertile. 

It  appears  somewhat  surprising  that  the  successive  attempts  of 
Periander,  Alexander,  Demetrius,  Julius  Caesar,  Caligula,  Nero,  and 
Herodes  Atticus,  to  unite  the  two  seas,  should  have  failed,  or  have 
been  relinquished.  The  art  of  perforating  rocks  was  well  under- 
stood and  dexterously  practised  both  in  Greece  and  Italy  at  a  very 
early  period,  and  therefore  no  difficulty  of  this  kind  could  have  oc- 
casioned the  abandonment  of  such  a  useful  project,  though  Pau- 
sanias'  is  of  a  different  opinion.  It  was  always  begun  with  the 
greatest  energy,  and  abandoned  without  any  plausible  motive,  a3 
no  doubt  the  quantity  of  rock  or  earth  to  be  removed,  and  all  the 
associated  impediments,   must  have  been  the  subject  of  previous 

'  B.  S.  p.  382.  •  B.  2.  c.  1. 


ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH.  185 

calculation.  And  if  Demetrius'  Avas  really  convinced  that  the  level 
of  the  Corinthian  gulf  was  higher  than  that  of  the  Saronic,  and  that 
the  adjacent  shore,  with  the  neighbouring  islands,  would  be  in- 
undated by  the  union  of  the  two  seas,  those  Avho  came  after  him 
would  not  have  persevered  in  so  destructive  an  undertaking. 

Sesostris,  and  afterwards  Darius,  were  in  the  same  manner  de- 
terred from  finishing  a  canal  from  the  Red  Sea  to  the  Nile,  by  an 
apprehension  that  Egypt  would  be  inundated.2  Dion  Cassius  tells 
nearly  the  same  story  about  digging  the  Isthmus,  as  that  which  is 
related  to  travellers  at  this  day.  He  says  that  blood  issued  from 
the  ground,  that  groans  and  lamentations  were  heard,  and  terrible 
apparitions  seen.  In  order  to  stimulate  the  perseverance  of  the 
people,  Nero  took  a  spade  and  dug  himself.1  It  is  not  unlikely  that 
the  priests  of  Delphi  had  some  influence  in  checking  the  enterprise. 
We  know  from  the  testimony  of  Herodotus4  and  Pausanias, 5  that 
the  Pythia  forbad  the  Gnidians  to  make  a  channel  through  their 
Isthmus,  alleging,  that  if  Jupiter  had  intended  the  peninsula  to  have 
been  an  island,  he  would  have  made  it  so  originally.  We  know  also 
that  an  oracle  prevented  Nechos,  king  of  Egypt,  from  cutting  a 
canal  from  the  Nile  to  the  Arabic  gulf.6 

The  ancients  appear  to  have  been  divided  in  their  opinions  con- 
cerning the  exact  breadth  of  the  Isthmus.  Diodorus7  and  Strabo8  say, 
it  was  forty  stadia,  and  Mela'  five  miles.  Hermolaus  Barbarus ,0  calls 
it  Quinquemillium,  instead  of  its  usual  appellation,  Hexamilium. 
Ships  were  drawn,  by  means  of  machinery,  from  one  sea  to  the  other, 
near  the  town  of  Schoenos,  over  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Isthmus, 


i  Strabo,  b.  1.  p.  54.  *  Strabo,  b.  1.  p.  38.  b.  17.  p.  80*. 

*  Strabo,  loc.  cit.    Sueton.  Nero.    Lucian's  Nero  and  the  digging  of  the  Isthmus.    Dion 
Cassius,  b.  63.  c.  16. 

*  B.  1.  c.  174.  4  B.2.  c.  1.  6  Herodot.  b.  2.  c.  158. 

'  B.  11.  c.  16.  8  B.  8.  p.  335.  9  De  situ  orbis,  b.  2.  c.  3. 

>»  Edit,  of  Pomp.  Mela. 
VOL.  II.  B  B 


186  ISTHMUS  OF  CORINTH. 

which  was  called  Diolkos.1  Pindar2  compares  the  Isthmus  to  a 
bridge,  over  the  sea,  irovlov  n  yitpvgu. ;  and  Pliny3  calls  it  the  neck  of 
the  Peloponnesos.  It  is  denominated  Hexamilium  by  the  Byzan- 
tine historians ;  and  there  is  a  village,  not  far  from  Corinth,  which 
is  still  called  Hexamilia. 

It  is  uncertain  at  what  period  the  Corinthian  Isthmus  was  first 
fortified  with  walls  which  were  drawn  across  it  from  sea  to  sea. 
We  know,  from  Herodotus,4  that,  after  the  death  of  Leonidas,  the 
Peloponnesians,  dreading  the  Persian  invasion,  broke  up  the  Skiro- 
nian  way,  and  built  a  Avail,  in  haste,  across  the  Isthmus,  composed  of 
all  kinds  of  materials  which  were  at  hand,  as  stones,  wood,  and  sand. 

It  was  afterwards  fortified  by  the  Spartans  and  Athenians,  in 
the  time  of  Epaminondas.  Polybius5  says,  that  Cleomenes  secured 
the  space  between  the  Acrocorinth  and  the  Oneian  mountains,  with 
banks  and  ditches ;  and  Plutarch6  asserts,  that  he  fortified  the  passes 
on  the  Oneian  mountains.  This  bulwark  was  afterwards  frequently 
destroyed,  and  as  often  rebuilt.  It  was  restored  by  the  emperor 
Valerian,  to  resist  a  Scythian  invasion,7  and  was  again  rebuilt  by 
Justinian,8  and  fortified  with  one  hundred  and  fifty-three  towers.  It 
was  probably  afterwards  left  in  a  ruinous  state  for  some  ages  ;  as  we 
hear  nothing  of  its  subsequent  restoration  until  the  year  1415,  when 
it  was  rebuilt  by  the  emperor  Manuel  Paloeologus.9 

It  was  repaired,10  twenty-nine  years  afterwards,  by  Constantine 
Palaeologus,  and  by  the  Venetians"  in  1463,  and  fortified  with  one 
hundred  and  thirty-six  towers  and  double  trenches;  the  whole  of 

1  Strabo,  b.8.  p.  335.     Pomp.  Mela,  de  situ  orbis,  b.  2.  c.  3.  *  Nem.  6.  v.  67. 

5  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  3.  *  B.  S.  c.  1 1 .  "  B.  2.  p.  I  38.     xalMi  **'  loLfpto. 

8  Life  of  Cleomenes. 
'  Georg.  Syncell.  Chronograph,  p.  381.     Joan.  Zonaras  Anna],  b.  12.     Sec.  22.  p.  625. 
Paris  edit. 

8  Georg.  Phranza.  Protovest.  b.  1.  c.  34  and  38. 

9  Ibid,  and  Ducae  Mich.  Nep.  Hist.  Byzant.  Cliron.  Breve,  p.  196. 

10  Id.  p.  199.  »  Coronelli. 


THE  ACROCORINTHOS.  187 

which  work  was  completed  in  fifteen  days,  by  more  than  30,000 
workmen.  It  was  again  restored  by  the  Venetians  in  l6Q6.  In  the 
fifteenth  century  it  was  three  times  captured  by  the  Turks  ;  and  in 
1465,  the  Venetians  seized  it,  but  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt 
upon  Corinth.  In  1458,  Mohamed  II.  took  Hexamilium  and  Co- 
rinth from  Demetrius,  despot  of  the  Morea.1  Before  this  period, 
Corinth  had  been  wrested  from  the  emperor  Manuel,  by  Roger,  king 
of  Sicily,  though  the  Byzantine  historians  describe  it  as  a  place  of 
great  strength  at  that  period.2 

The  Acrocorinthos,  or  Acropolis  of  Corinth,  is  one  of  the  finest  ob- 
jects in  Greece;  and,  if  properly  garrisoned,  would  be  a  place  of 
great  strength  and  importance.  It  abounds  in  excellent  water;  is 
in  most  parts  precipitous ;  and  there  is  only  one  spot  from  which  it 
can  be  annoyed  with  artillery.  This  is  a  pointed  rock,  at  a  few 
hundred  yards  to  the  south-west  of  it;  from  which  it  was  battered 
by  Mohamed  II.  Before  the  introduction  of  artillery,  it  Avas  deemed 
almost  impregnable,  and  had  never  been  taken  except  by  treachery 
or  surprise. 

Should  Greece  ever  be  rescued  from  the  violence  of  its  present 
oppressors,  that  great  work  must  be  begun  by  occupying  the  Acro- 
corinthos, the  Isthmus,  and  the  passes  on  Gerania.  The  security  of 
the  Peloponnesos  would  then  be  established  ;  for  Corinth  is,  as  it 
were,  its  only  gate. 

io-9fuou 

U^idupoy  Hdluiavoi.3 

Livy,4  in  speaking  of  the  Acrocorinthos,  says,  "  Arx  inter  omnia 
in  immanem  altitudinem  edita,  scatens  fontibus."  And  Statius5  says, 
that  it  throws  its  shadow  alternately  over  both  seas. 

qua  sumraas  caput  Acrocorinthos  in  auras 

Tollit,  et  alterna  geminum  mare  protegit  umbra. 

1  Ducae  Mich.  Nep.  Hist.  Byzant.  Chrouicon.  Breve,  p.  199  and  200.  George  Phranza. 
Protovest.  b.  3.  c.  27  ;  and  Hist,  de  Constantinop.  sous  les  Emp.  Francois. 

1  Niceta.  Choniat.  b.  1.  p.  51.     Paris  edit.         3  Pindar  Olymp.  13.  v.  4. 

*  B.  45.  c.  28.         s  Theb.  b.  7.  v.  106. 

B   B  2 


188  THE  ACROCOHINTHOS. 

It  shoots  up  majestically  from  the  plain  to  a  considerable  height, 
and  forms  a  conspicuous  object  at  a  great  distance,  as  it  is  clearly 
seen  from  Athens,  from  which  it  is  not  less  than  forty-four  miles  in  a 
direct  line.  Strabo'  affirms  that  it  is  three  stadia  and  a  half  in  per- 
pendicular height ;  but  that  the  ascent  to  the  top  is  thirty  stadia  by 
the  road,  the  circuitous  inflections  of  which  render  this  no  extra- 
vagant computation. 

It  was  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  horns2  of  the  Peloponnesos, 
Ithome  being  the  other;  assimilating  the  peninsula  to  an  ox,  which 
was  safe  in  possession,  when  the  horns  were  well  secured.  It  was 
also  considered  as  one  of  the  fetters  of  Greece,  of  which  the  others 
Avere  Demetrias  in  Thessaly,  and  Chalcis  in  Euboea.3  The  position 
of  the  Acrocorinthos  was  naturally  so  strong  that  a  small  number  of 
men  were  sufficient  to  garrison  it;  and  we  find  that  in  the  time  of 
Aratus*  it  was  defended  by  four  hundred  soldiers,  fifty  dogs,  and  as 
many  keepers.  It  was  surrounded  with  a  wall  by  Cleomenes.s  The 
Acrocorinth  is  at  present  regarded  as  the  strongest  fortification  in 
Greece,  next  to  that  of  Nauplia  in  Argolis.  It  contains,  within  its 
walls,  a  town  and  three  mosques. 

Athenaeus6  commends  the  water  of  the  fountain  Peirene,  in  the 
Acrocorinthos,  as  the  most  salubrious  in  Greece  ;  and  he  compares 
its7  excellence  to  that  of  Lerna.  But  it  is  uncertain  whether  he 
alludes  to  the  Lerna  of  Argolis,  as  there  was  another  fountain  of  that 
name  at  Corinth.8  It  was  at  fount  Peirene  that  Pegasus  was  drink- 
ing, when  taken  by  Bellerophon.9 

After  gushing  from  the  rock,  it  branches  into  several  small  rills, 
which  find  their  way  imperceptibly  to  the  lower  city,10  which,  for 
that  reason,  anciently  merited  the  epithet  of  tvvdgov  ua-rv."  I  was 
assured  that  there  were  scarcely  any  vestiges  of  antiquity  within  the 


1  B.  8.  p.  379.  '  Poljb.  b.  7.  p.  505.     Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  36 1.  3  Id.  b.[).  p.  42S. 

1  Plutaich's  Life  of  Aratus.         '  Ibid.         6  Deipnosoph.  b.  2.  c.  5.        "  B.  4.  c.  14. 

8  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  4.  9  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  379.  '*  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  379. 

11  Simonides  in  Dion.  Clirysostom.  Orat.  37.  p.  459. 


THE  ACROCORINTHOS.  189 

Acrocorinthos,  and  the  walls  appear  to  be  of  modern  construction ; 
but  the  jealous  vigilance  of  the  Turks  would  not  permit  me  to  ap- 
proach sufficiently  near  to  ascertain  if  any  part  of  them  is  ancient. 
Strabo'  and  Pausanias2  mention  the  temple  of  Venus  within  the 
Acrocorinthos  ;  and  the  latter  author1  says,  that  there  is  a  fountain 
behind  the  temple,  and  that  its  water  forms  the  fount  Peirene, 
which  is  in  the  lower  town.  Strabo  says  that  the  Sisypheion  was 
below  the  fount  Peirene,  but  he  probably  does  not  mean  that  it  was 
within  the  Acrocorinthos. 

The  Turks  guard  the  fortress  of  Corinth  with  such  suspicious  soli- 
citude, that  even  its  approach  is  prohibited  to  strangers.  Notwith- 
standing these  obstructions,  which  it  seemed  impossible  to  remove, 
I  felt  a  great  unwillingness  to  be  frustrated  in  a  favourite  project,  of 
taking  a  general  view  of  the  Isthmus,  and  two  seas,  from  some  ele- 
vated spot  in  the  vicinity.  The  only  place  which  seemed  likely  to 
afford  this  opportunity  was  a  pointed  rock,  a  few  hundred  yards  to 
the  south-west  of  the  Acrocorinthos,  from  which  (as  has  already  been 
observed)  it  was  battered  by  Mohamed  II. 

We  set  out  from  Corinth  with  a  Greek  to  take  care  of  our  horses ; 
but,  in  order  to  avoid  interruption,  we  did  not  let  him  know  in  what 
direction  we  intended  to  proceed  until  we  were  out  of  the  town. 
When  we  began  to  mount  the  side  of  the  hill,  and  to  approach  the 
fortress,  he  seemed  agonized  with  fear,  and  endeavoured  to  escape 
back  to  Corinth;  but  I  obliged  him  to  accompany  us  to  the  spot 
which  we  wished  to  reach;  and,  while  I  was  drawing,  he  concealed 
himself  and  the  horses  behind  the  rock,  crossed  himself  very  fre- 
quently, and  muttered  some  prayers  to  Panagia,  to  whom  a  small 
church  on  the  summit  of  the  rock  is  dedicated.  My  artist,  who  was 
taken  ill  on  the  way,  returned  to  Corinth. 

We  had  the  Acrocorinthos  to  our  left,  and  proceeded  by  the 
only  road  that  could  ever  have  been  practicable;  and,  when  we 
were  within  100  yards  of  the  gate  of  the  fort,  we  turned  towards 


1   Loc.  cit.  youhw.         *  B.  2,  c.  4.  *««;.  3  B.  2.  c.  3  and  4. 


190  BEAUTIFUL  VIEW  OF  THE  TWO  CITIES. 

the  right,  and  ascended  the  rock  of  which  we  had  come  in  quest. 
I  observed  no  ruins  in  the  way,  though  Pausanias  mentions  four 
temples,1  as  many  sacred  inclosures,2  and  several  altars. 

When  I  had  reached  the  summit  of  the  rock,  my  trouble  was 
amply  rewarded  by  the  magnificence  of  the  prospect  that  was  every 
where  displayed.  The  finest  regions  of  classic  interest,  where  the 
arts  had  most  flourished,  and  poetic  inspiration  most  prevailed,  were 
expanded  before  my  eyes.  Strabo'  has  accurately  characterised 
the  prominent  features  of  the  view.  He  says,  "  From  the  summit 
of  the  Acrocorinthos,  Parnassos  and  Helicon  are  seen  towards  the 
north,  covered  with  snow.  Towards  the  west  is  the  gulf  of  Krissa, 
bounded  by  Phocis,  Bceotia,  Megaris,  Corinthia,  and  Sicyonia. 
Beyond  are  the  Oneian  mountains,  extending  from  the  Skironian 
rocks  to  Bceotia  and  mount  Cithreron."  I  can  only  add  to  this 
description,  that  the  Olmian  promontory,  mount  Kirphis,  and  the 
capital  of  Sicyonia,  are  distinguishable  on  the  Corinthian  gulf,  which 
seems  inclosed,  towards  the  west,  by  a  lofty  range  of  mountains,  in 
Locris  Ozolaea.  In  the  opposite  direction  is  the  Saronic  gulf,  with 
its  islands,  and  the  Athenian  acropolis,  like  a  white  speck  in  the 
distance,  with  the  Attic  mountains,  Aigaleos,  Pentelikon,  Hymettos, 
and  Lauiion,  stretching  down  to  the  receding  promontory  of  Sunium, 
forming,  in  the  whole,  a  panorama  of  the  most  captivating  features, 
and  of  the  grandest  dimensions,  comprehending  six  of  the  most 
celebrated  states  of  Greece,  Achaia,  Locris,  Phocis,  Bceotia,  Attica, 
and  Argolis. 

I  remained  the  whole  day  upon  this  solitary  rock,  drawing  the 
wonderful  scenery  with  which  I  was  so  luxuriously  regaled.  It  was 
a  feast  both  for  the  eye  and  for  the  mind.  The  prospect  from  this 
spot  must  be  superior  even  to  that  from  the  fortress  itself,  as  it  in- 
cludes the  Acrocorinthos,  which  is  the  object  of  most  immediate 
interest  in  the  view.  Here  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  pass  the 
entire  day  without  any  molestation.  If  I  had  excited  the  notice 
of  the  Turks  while  engaged   in  drawing  their  fortress,  there  is  no 


1  B.  G.    Two  of  which  he  terms  upz  and  two  >xv.         '  7£,u.ehj.         s  B.  8.  p.  379. 


DORIC  TEMPLE.  1.91 

doubt  that  I  should  at  least  have  been  assailed  by  insult  and  con- 
tumely. 

Before  the  barbarous  destruction  of  Corinth  by  the  Roman 
tyrants,  that  favoured  city  must  have  been  extremely  magnificent. 
It  was  proverbial  for  its  wealth  as  early  as  the  time  of  Homer,'  and 
was  the  emporium  of  Greece,  and  the  great  bulwark  of  the  Pelo- 
ponnesos.  Its  port,  Kenchreai,1  received  the  rich  merchandize  of 
Asiatic  luxury,  and  Lechaion'  that  of  Italy  and  Sicily.  Its  situa- 
tion was  so  advantageous  for  the  inexperienced  navigation  of  early 
times,  that  the  first  rudiments  of  nautical  knowledge  appear  to  have 
been  practised  at  Corinth ;  and  the  first  naval  battle  that  history 
records,  was  fought  between  Corinth  and  its  colony  Corcyra.+ 

Dion  Chrysostom*  calls  Corinth  the  prow  and  stern  of  Greece; 

Pausanias  mentions  in  or  near  the  city,  a  theatre,  an  odeion,  a 
stadium,  and  sixteen  temples,  some  of  which  were  near  the  ports; 
he  also  notices  several  sepulchral  monuments.  Many  of  these 
edifices  had  adorned  the  ancient  city,  and  escaped  the  havoc  of 
Roman  rage.  In  the  narrowest  part  of  the  isthmus,  about  three 
miles  to  the  east  of  Corinth,  and  probably  in  the  place  where  the 
games  were  celebrated,  are  seen  the  remains  of  a  spacious  theatre 
and  a  stadium ;  and  less  than  a  mile  from  Corinth,  in  the  same 
direction,  the  circuit  and  arena  of  a  Roman  amphitheatre  are  still 
visible.  The  only  Grecian  ruin  which  at  present  remains  at  Corinth 
is  the  Doric  temple,  which  being  published  by  Stuart,6  requires  little 
or  no  additional  description.  Du  Loir,  who  travelled  in  1654,  says 
that  twelve  columns  of  this  temple  were  then  standing;  but  what 
confidence  can  be  reposed  in  a  writer  who,  like  Le  Roy,  counted 
fourteen  columns  instead  of  thirteen  on  the  flanks  of  the  Theseion? 
When  Wheler  visited  Greece  it  had  only  eleven  columns  remaining, 
but  long  after  that  period  the  magnifying  imagination  of  Le  Roy 

1  Iliad,  2.  v.  570.  he  calls  it  afmos.        *  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  P80.  Ktyj^ieu.         '  Aixouor. 
4  About  651  years  B.  C.  »  Orat.  37.  p.  464.  6  Vol.  3.  c.  6. 


192  DORIC  TEMrLE. 

represented  fourteen.  It  had  eleven  as  late  as  the  tour  of  Dr. 
Chandler,  who  takes  it  for  the  Sisypheum;1  but  at  present  seven 
only  are  standing,  which  rest  upon  one  step.  It  is  not  known  to 
what  divinity  this  temple  was  dedicated.  It  is  probably  the  most 
ancient  remaining  in  Greece,  if  we  may  judge  by  its  massive  and 
inelegant  proportions.  The  columns  are  each  composed  of  one 
block  of  calcareous  stone,  which  being  of  a  porous  quality  was 
anciently  covered  with  stucco  of  great  hardness  and  durability. 
A  similar  expedient  has  been  practised  in  all  the  temples  of  Greece, 
Sicily,  and  Italy,  where  the  columns  are  of  common  stone. 

I  observed  no  remains  of  the  order  of  architecture  which  is  said 
to  have  been  invented  at  Corinth ;  nor  did  I  perceive  in  any  part 
of  the  isthmus,  the  acanthos  plant,  which  forms  the  principal  dis- 
tinctive character  of  the  Corinthian  capital. 

Many  edifices  were  probably  destroyed  or  injured  when  Corinth 
was  pillaged  by  the  army  of  Alaric. 

There  are  several  shapeless  and  uninteresting  masses  of  Roman 
remains  composed  of  bricks,  one  of  which  seems  to  have  been  a 
bath,  resembling  in  some  respects  that  of  Diocletian  at  Rome,  but 
little  more  than  the  lower  walls  and  foundations  are  remaining. 
There  is  nothing  approaching  to  an  intelligible  building,  and  we 
may  exclaim  with  the  poet,2 — 

Where  is  thy  grandeur,  Corinth !  shrunk  from  sight, 
Thy  ancient  treasures,  and  thy  ramparts  height; 
Thy  god-like  fanes  and  palaces! — Oh  where 
Thy  mighty  myriads  and  majestic  fair ! 

Relentless  war  has  pour'd  around  thy  wall, 

And  hardly  spared  the  traces  of  thy  fall ! 

The  present  town  of  Corinth,  though  very  thinly  peopled,  is  of 
considerable  extent.  The  houses  are  placed  wide  apart,  and  much 
space  is  occupied  by  gardens.  There  are  some  fine  fountains  in  the 
town,  one  of  which  is  extremely  curious,  on  account  of  the  fantastic 


1  Travels  in  Greece,  c.  57.  p.  2*0.  •  Antholog.  Epig.  of  ^ntipater  of  Sidon. 


THE  PLAGUE  AT  CORINTH.  193 

ornaments  with  which  it  has  been  enriched  by  the  singular  com- 
binations of  Turkish  taste. 

Corinth  is  governed  by  a  bey,  whose  command  extends  over  163 
villages.  The  chief  produce  of  the  territory  is  corn,  cotton,  tobacco, 
and  oil,  and  a  better  wine  than  that  of  Athens,  which  the  Turks 
quaff  freely  in  spite  of  their  prophet,  in  order  to  counteract  the  bad 
effects  of  the  air,  which  in  summer  is  almost  pestilential.  A  thick 
dew  falls  during  the  night;  and  early  in  the  morning  every  thing  is 
as  wet  as  if  it  had  been  drenched  with  rain.  The  plague,  which 
raged  here  a  few  months  before  our  arrival,  destroyed  about  800 
persons ;  but  when  we  were  at  Corinth  all  fear  of  the  contagion 
had  vanished,  and  no  further  precautions  were  deemed  necessary. 
Corinth  is  the  first  bishopric  of  the  Morea,  and  is  called  M^osroX;; 
rtii  Exxados,   by  John  Malala;1   the  bishop's   title  is  ^tulo^ovos  rrn 

The  bey  resides  in  a  large  house  at  the  north-east  extremity  of 
the  town;  his  garden  is  ornamented  with  decapitated  cypress  trees, 
which  circumstance  contradicts  the  authority  of  Theophrastus2  and 
Pliny,3  who  assert  that  the  cypress  dies  if  its  top  is  cut  off. 


TO  PORT  KENCHREIAI. 

On  the  2d  of  December  we  visited  the  port  Kenchreiai,  which  at 
present  retains  the  name  of  Kekreh.  I  was  particularly  anxious  to 
discover  the  situation  of  some  ancient  sepulchres,  which  were  known 


1  Chronograph,  b.  10.  l  Hist.  Plant,  b.  4.  c.  19. 

1  Nat.  Hist.  b.  17.  c.  24.     The  bad  taste  of  lopping  cypresses  i*  common  in  Italy,  par- 
ticularly in  the  Roman  territory. 

VOL.  II.  C  C 


194  PORT  KENCHREIAI. 

only  to  u  few  of  the  present  inhabitants  of  Corinth,  and  from  which 
they  had  extracted  vases  of  the  highest  antiquity,  some  of  which  I 
purchased,  but  could  not  prevail  upon  them  to  inform  me  where 
they  had  been  found. 

Pausanias  was,  as  usual,  my  only  guide ;  in  his  way  to  the  Port 
he  only  mentions  a  temple  of  Diana.1  We  passed  by  some  Roman 
sepulchres  and  ruins  of  no  import,  and  in  forty  minutes  from  Corinth 
went  a  short  distance  from  the  village  called  Hexamilia,  near  which 
are  some  ancient  stone  quarries  of  considerable  extent,  and  in  their 
vicinity  are  the  foundations  of  fine  walls  that  probably  belonged  to 
the  temple  of  Diana.  We  crossed  a  stream,  and  observed  some 
blocks  of  stone  on  its  bank,  perhaps  the  remains  of  a  bridge.  The 
ruins  of  a  modern  fort  are  seen  on  a  hill  to  the  right.  These  hills  are 
the  boundaries  of  the  isthmus. 

In  an  hour  and  three  quarters  from  Corinth,  we  arrived  at  the 
seaside,  and  in  another  quarter  of  an  hour  at  the  baths  of  Helen, 
which  time  corresponds  nearly  with  the  seventy  stadia  that  Strabo" 
gives  as  the  distance  between  Corinth  and  Kenchreiai.  The  entrance 
of  the  port  is  between  two  low  capes,  on  one  of  which  is  a  magazine, 
and  a  modern  tower  in  ruins,  with  some  ancient  remains  ;  other 
traces  are  observed  on  the  opposite  cape.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
port  is  an  insular  rock. 

It  is  here  necessary  to  cite  the  words  of  Pausanias,  in  order  to 
show  that  the  original  readings  should  be  retained,  instead  of  the 
corrections  of  Kuhnius.  Pausanias  says,  Ev  h  Ke»xgsietig  Atygolflrig 
re  ttrri  vccog  x.ou  uyaXfLu,  XtOov'  pt,{Joc  h  ccvjo  em  tco  givy.ctjt  toj  hitx.  ty,g  ^aXcnro-r,g 
Kotrstowog  yjx.'ky.ouv  y.ofla,  tie  to  slzgov  ■zi^a.glou  Xipzvog  Aczkipciov  zui  Itridog  upct, 
"  At  Kenchreiai  there  is  a  temple  of  Venus  and  a  marble  statue;  be- 
yond which,  in  the  current  of  the  sea,  there  is  a  bronze  Neptune ; 
and  on  the  other  extremity  of  the  port  are  the  temples  of  iEscula- 
pius  and  Isis." 

Kuhnius  has  substituted  the  word  Qvypali  for  gevpujt,  and  »e§ag 

'  B.  2.  c.  2.  reus.  8  B.  8.  p.  3S0. 


PORT  KENCHREIAI.— BATH  OF  HELENA.        195 

for  *•££«?,  which  he  would  not  have  clone  had  he  been  on  the  spot, 
or  even  had  he  seen  a  medal  of  Antoninus  Pius,  on  which  the  port 
is  represented.  The  medal  is  as  follows:'  ANTONINVS  AVG. 
PIVS.  head  of  the  emperor ;  rev.  C.  L.  I.  COR.  a  semicircular  port, 
at  each  projection  of  which  is  a  temple,  and  in  the  sea  at  the 
entrance  of  the  port  is  a  statue  of  Neptune,  known  by  the  trident 
in  his  left  hand,  and  a  dolphin  in  his  right;  before  the  port  are 
three  ships,  and  on  the  shore  is  a  tree,  which  may  perhaps  represent 
the  pine  of  Pityokamptes,  which,  according  to  Pausanias,2  existed 
in  his  time.  On  another  colonial  coin  of  Corinth  of  Lucius  Verus, 
a  tree  is  seen  near  the  Acrocorinthos. 

The  actual  appearance  of  the  port  itself  elucidates  the  passage 
in  Pausanias,  as  well  as  the  medal  of  Antoninus.  It  would  accord- 
ingly appear  that  the  temple  of  Venus  was  on  one  cape,  and  those  of 
iEsculapius  and  Isis  on  the  other,  and  the  statue  of  Neptune  on  the 
insular  mass,  which  is  surrounded  by  the  sea,  son  tu  givpuli  ru  ha  rti? 
0ciXu<r<r7]g.  The  substitution  of  the  word  xtgug  for  <rega.$  is  unnecessary, 
as  it  does  not  alter  the  sense.  The  original  reading  may  therefore 
be  preserved. 

The  bath  of  Helena  is  at  least  a  mile  to  the  west  of  this  port. 
The  stream  that  issues  from  the  rock  forms  a  deep  bath  several 
3^ards  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  the  water  is  beautifully  clear, 
rather  saline,  and  in  a  small  degree  tepid.  Instead  of  falling  im- 
mediately into  the  sea,  which,  according  to  Pausanias,3  was  for- 
merly the  case,  it  is  diverted  from  its  original  course  by  ditches, 
and  a  large  mill  is  turned  by  the  rapidity  of  its  current,  which,  after 
a  course  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  enters  the  sea  near  a  round  pro- 
montory, projecting  from  the  southern  extremity  of  the  hills  which 
bound  the  western  side  of  the  isthmus.  From  hence  is  seen  the 
hilly  shore  stretching  up  towards  the  Epidauriad.     On  the  coast 

1  See  Recueil  de  quelques  medailles  Grecques  inedites,  par  M.  Milliugen,  Rome,  1812. 
Monsr.  Courier,  well  known  for  his  learned  researches,  proposes  to  read  p^y^ali  instead  of 
piviia.lt.  *  B.  2.  c.  1.  3  B.  2.  c.  2. 

c  c  2 


196  ANCIENT  SEPULCHRES. 

there  were,  according  to  Ptolemy,'  the  small  port  of  Boukephalon* 
the  port  of  the  Athenians,  and  the  Spiraeon  promontory.  Thucy- 
dides1  mentions  a  deserted  port,  called  Piraeus,  towards  Epidauros. 
This  may  be  the  same  that  Ptolemy  denominates  the  port  of  the 
Athenians  ;  or  it  is  possibty  an  error  of  the  copyist  for  Spiraeon. 

It  appears  that  when  Pausanias  arrived  at  Kenchreiai  and  the  Bath 
of  Helena,  he  returned  to  Corinth  by  another  road  ;  for  it  is  only  on 
his  return  that  he  mentions  some  ancient  sepulchres,  which  he  says 
are  near  the  road.5  I  inquired  of  the  millers  at  the  Bath  of  Helena, 
if  there  was  any  way  leading  to  Corinth  without  retracing  my  steps 
over  the  same  road  which  I  had  already  travelled.  They  informed 
me  that  there  was  no  regular  road  ;  but  that  I  might  go  by  a  bad 
and  circuitous  route  through  a  plain  which  was  on  the  western  side 
of  a  range  of  hills,  beginning  at  the  southern  foot  of  the  Acroco- 
rinth,  and  terminating  near  the  Bath  of  Helena.  We  accordingly 
proceeded  through  some  thick  and  very  difficult  forests  of  shrubs. 
In  twenty-five  minutes  from  the  Bath  of  Helena  we  passed  some  cot- 
tages, and  twelve  minutes  farther  a  village  called  Gallatachi:  half 
an  hour  more  brought  us  to  a  miserable  village  called  Mertese,  and 
the  first  cottage  we  entered  presented  objects  of  great  interest,  as 
connected  with  our  anxiously  desired  discovery  of  the  sepulchres  of 
which  we  were  in  search.  Upon  the  shelf  which  goes  round  the  in- 
terior of  these  cottages,  and  on  which  they  place  their  smaller  culi- 
nary utensils,  and  vessels  of  earthen  ware,  I  saw  two  small  vases  of 
terra-cotta,  of  rude  but  ancient  workmanship:  the  other  cottages 
exhibited  vases  of  the  same  kind,  but  without  any  figures  on  them, 
or  any  thing  which  rendered  them  interesting  in  themselves.  We 
succeeded,  however,  in  persuading  some  of  the  villagers  to  accom- 
pany us  to  the  spot  where  they  were  found,  which  is  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  the  village  towards  Corinth.  We  came  to  an  cmi- 
nence  a  little  elevated  above  the  other  undulations  of  the  plain,  and 

1    B.  3.  p.  90.  *  B.  8.  c.  10. 

1   B.2.  c.  2.     Ari&mn  $e  s;  Ko;u3ov  xai  a>-Aa  cdt  xa"a  1rtv  otiov  jj.vijij.x1z. 


!I   iVJlfilSTTIESE    KILA.S.    E©ST^T'JiI. 


IWUAo  Kntjfit^ 


I 


Jj.jJ  (TV"  '■ 


ETESE  HUL&IK  ^TjK. 


■ 


.-.■-.  I 


■■    .  .       ■.  .     ■ 


&b  <s©iii3xnrsi. 


ANCIENT  FUNEREAL  VASE.  197 

found  it  covered  with  sepulchres,  of  the  woyuia  kind,  similar  to  those 
at  the  Piraeus.  The  countrymen  opened  a  few  in  our  presence,  in 
which  we  found  bones,  and  several  vases  broken  into  small  pieces* 
Those  which  were  entire  were  plain,  and  composed  of  a  beautifully 
shining  black  varnish,  which  was  still  as  fresh  as  on  the  day  when  it 
was  painted.  The  vases  were  remarkably  light,  and  of  elegant  forms. 
We  also  found  a  large  cinerary  urn,  of  common  earth,  containing 
ashes  and  burnt  bones.  The  sepulchres  are  confusedly  placed,  with- 
out any  attention  to  regularity  of  arrangement,  or  to  the  direction 
of  east  and  west.  As  it  appeared  probable  that  these  sepulchres 
belonged  to  some  ancient  city  in  the  vicinity,  I  made  every  inquiry 
which  might  lead  to  the  discovery,  if  any  such  place  existed ;  but 
was  assured  that  nothing  of  the  kind  was  known.  This  is  another 
reason  for  supposing  them  to  be  the  tombs  to  which  Pausanias  refers 
on  his  return  to  Corinth,  as  he  mentions  no  other  remains  in  their 
vicinity ;  and  they  could  not  have  belonged  to  Corinth,  from  which 
they  are  distant  at  least  seven  miles. 

The  villagers  of  Mertese  informed  me,  that  a  Jew  of  Corinth,, 
who  had  lately  been  digging  in  this  spot,  had  found  several  vases. 
On  my  return  to  Corinth,  I  immediately  called  upon  him,  and 
found  them  heaped  in  a  corner,  with  other  rubbish.  He,  however, 
knew,  or  pretended  to  know,  the  value  of  an  inscribed  vase, 
which  he  showed  me;  and  which,  with  some  difficulty,  I  bought 
of  him.  The  design  of  the  figures,  and  the  forms  of  the  letters^ 
are  of  the  most  ancient  character;  and  probably  no  vase  of  terra- 
cotta has  yet  been  discovered  that  belongs  to  a  period  so  re^ 
mote.  It  is  divided  into  two  compartments,  one  above  the  other,  in 
which  are  lions,  bulls,  stags,  goats,  birds,  and  flowers,  which  are  not 
historical,  but  merely  ornamental.  The  cover,  however,  is  of  the 
greatest  interest ;  it  represents  the  chase  of  a  wild  boar,  in  which 
the  name  of  each  of  the  actors  is  written  by  his  side,  in  letters  of 
the  most  ancient  date.  The  subject  is  opened  by  a  figure  dressed 
in  a  long  garment,  and  carrying  a  caduceus  in  his  right  hand,  with 


198  ANCIENT  FUNEREAL  VASE. 

the  inscription  ArAMEMNON.'  The  next  figure  is  a  female  named 
AAKA.  She  places  her  right  hand  on  the  head  of  a  boy,  who  holds 
a  parazonion,  or  short  sword,  in  his  left  hand,  and  whose  name  is 
AOPEMAXOS,  Avritten  from  right  to  left.  The  next  figure  is  a 
female  named  2AKE2,  holding  a  singular  and  indefinite  object  in 
her  hand.  This  appears  to  be  the  conclusion  of  the  subject,  as  a 
bird  is  placed  after  this  figure,  which  is  often  found  on  the  most  an- 
cient vases,  marking  the  termination  of  the  story,  or  the  separation 
of  one  subject  from  another.  The  figure  which  commences  the  other 
subject  is  ANAPYT02,  armed  with  a  large  Argolic  shield,  with  kne- 
mides,  with  the  %.ovlo$,  or  lokiyotTzm  syyog"-  (the  long  spear),  which  he 
is  darting  at  the  boar,  and  wearing  a  short  vest  or  cuirass,  not  reach- 
ing to  his  knees.  The  next  to  this  is  ITAOON,  who  is  running,  and 
in  the  act  of  shooting  at  the  boar  with  his  bow  and  arrow;  his 
quiver  is  hanging  on  his  back,  and  his  head  is  armed  with  a  helmet, 
embellished  with  a  high  lophos,  or  crest.  After  this  figure  is  placed 
a  bird  smaller  than  that  above-mentioned,  which  appears  to  be  onl\r 
an  ornament  to  fill  up  the  space,  and  not  a  stop  to  the  subject. 
This  continues  with  the  wild  boar,  which  is  already  pierced  behind 
with  two  kovJoi,  or  long  spears,  and  three  uxofltu,  or  short  ones,  shot 
from  the  bow  of  Paphon.  Under  the  animal  is  the  figure  of  one  of 
the  hunters,  named  OIAON,  holding  a  long  spear,  but  extended  on 
the  ground,  as  if  killed  by  the  boar,  which  is  running  at  full  speed, 
and  is  met  by  0EP2ANAPO2,  who  pierces  his  head  with  a  sword. 
Only  one  of  the  figures  is  armed  with  a  helmet,  and  one  with  a 
shield;  this  is  the  termination  of  the  subject.  The  remaining  part 
of  the  cover  is  occupied  by  two  winged  sphinxes,  with  human  heads, 
and  the  bodies  and  feet  of  lions ;  they  face  each  other,  and  are 
couched  upon  their  hinder  legs,  the  foremost  being  erect :  between 


i  The  inscriptions  are  here  given  in  letters  of  the  common  form,  in  order  to  render  them 
legible.  Their  real  form  is  seen  in  the  annexed  plate,  the  cover  of  which  is  a  fac  simile  of 
the  original. 

•  Homer.  Odyss.  19.  v.  438. 


ANCIENT  FUNEREAL  VASE.  199 

them  is  a  bird  resembling  a  swan.  The  figures  were  evidently 
drawn  with  great  care,  and  executed  Avith  difficulty,  before  the 
facility  of  after  times  had  been  attained.  No  better  specimen  of 
the  unimproved  archaic  style  can  well  be  seen  :  there  is  a  natural 
motion  in  all  the  figures,  attended,  however,  with  the  rigid  formality 
and  elaborate  stiffness  of  the  earliest  antiquity.  The  vase  is  the 
colour  of  boxwood,  being  a  light  yellow ;  the  figures  are  composed 
of  the  two  colours,  black  and  dark  red ;  the  muscles  of  the  body, 
and  the  plaits  of  the  vests,  are  represented  by  the  paint  being 
scratched  with  a  sharp  instrument  until  the  natural  colour  of  the 
earth  is  seen.  The  earth  is  extremely  fine,  and  the  vase  is  sur- 
prisingly light  and  thin.  It  is  difficult,  and  indeed  impossible  to 
determine  its  age ;  the  style  of  the  design,  however,  but  more  par- 
ticularly the  very  ancient  and  curious  form  of  the  letters,  induces 
me  to  place  it  about  700  years  before  the  Christian  era. 

None  of  the  names  on  the  vase  are  known  in  heroic  history  except 
those  of  Agamemnon  and  Thersandros.  The  latter  was  probably 
son  of  Sisyphos,  king  of  Ephyra  (afterwards  Corinth.)  There  was, 
however,  another  Thersandros,  son  of  Polynices  and  Argia,  who  was 
with  the  Greeks  at  the  Trojan  war.  The  hunt,  which  is  here  repre- 
sented, is  unknown  in  ancient  history.  Those  which  have  come 
down  to  us  are  the  chase  of  the  Calydonian  boar,  and  that  of  Par- 
nassos,  where  Ulysses  was  wounded.'  The  Cromyon  sow,  and  Ery- 
manthian  boar,  which  were  killed  by  Theseus  and  Hercules,  seem 
not  to  have  afforded  the  opportunity  of  a  general  hunt,  like  the  two 
above-mentioned. 

The  wild  boar  chase  is  not  an  uncommon  delineation  on  fictile 
vases.  There  is  one  of  great  interest  and  remote  antiquity,  in  the 
collection  of  Sir  W.  Hamilton,  which  is  at  present  in  the  British 
Museum.2  It  has  been  supposed  that  these  vases  were  the  Therik- 
lean  cups,  celebrated   in   antiquity,  and   thus   named  from    their 


1  Homer.  Odyss.  19. 
*  See  D'Hancarville  Vases  d'llaniilton,  vol.  1.  pi.  1,  2,  3,  and  4. 


200  ANCIENT  FUNEREAL  VASE. 

maker  Therikles.1  It  appears  that  the  manufacture  was  not  con- 
fined to  any  particular  material.  In  Dr.  Bentley's  dissertation  upon 
Theriklean  cups,  are  cited  the  authors,  Avho  have  written  on  this 
subject.    - 

These  tombs  probably  did  not  contain  vases  of  such  value  as  those 
found  in  the  sepulchres  of  Corinth  ;  all  of  which,  Strabo'  says,  were 
opened  in  the  time  of  Julius  Cresar,  when  the  earthen  and  bronze 
vases'  found  in  them  were  sold  for  high  prices,  and  sent  to  Rome. 
That  city  was  thus  copiously  supplied  with  the  vases  that  had  been 
interred  with  the  Corinthian  dead/  The  vein  of  earth  being  lost, 
they  became  scarce ;  and  the  value  was  enhanced,  not  only  by 
their  great  rarity,  but  by  their  wonderful  beauty.  This  intro- 
duction of  objects  of  Corinthian  art  must  have  been  a  source  of  im- 
provement for  Roman  artists,  by  whom  elegance  was  not  much 
known  or  studied  at  that  period;  though  it  is  evident  they  began 
to  have  a  taste  for  it,  from  the  eagerness  with  which  they  sought  for 
works  of  that  kind.  Corinth  was  for  a  long  time  the  great  empo- 
rium of  every  thing  that  was  elegant  in  the  arts  ;  and  was,  according 
to  the  observation  of  Paul  Orosius,  for  many  ages,  "  velut  officina 
omnium  artificium,  atque  artificiorum."5 

When  I  was  at  Corinth,  I  saw  the  marble  irigitrlopiov,  or  mouth, 
of  an  ancient  well,6  on  the  exterior  of  which  were  sculptured  ten 


1  See  Introduction  aux  Peintures  de  Vases  Grecques,  par  I.  Millingen.  Rome,  1813. 
Therikles  was  cotemporary  with  the  comedian  Aristophanes,  who  lived  about  the  97th 
Olympiad,  434  years  B.  C. 

2  B.  S.p.  381.  3  0<r7faxiva.  *  NexfoxofixSiwy.  »  Hist.  b.  5.  c.  3. 

c  It  is  at  present  in  London,  in  the  collection  of  the  Eail  of  Guildford.  When  I  saw  it  at 
Corinth,  it  was  still  used  as  the  mouth  of  a  well ;  but  it  had  evidently  been  removed  from  its 
original  position,  as  it  was  turned  the  wrong  side  upwards,  and,  consequently,  very  difficult  to 
draw ;  and,  from  the  friction  occasioned  by  those  who  drew  water  from  it,  the  figures  were 
much  injured,  and  most  of  the  heads  destroyed.  It  belonged  to  the  noble  and  ancient  family 
of  Notara,  who  are  mentioned,  by  the  Byzantine  writers,  as  a  powerful  house,  when  the 
Palicologi  were  emperors  of  the  East.  These  mouths  of  wells,  which  were  enriched  with 
sculpture,  were  denominated  putealia  sigillala  by  the  Romans.  See  Cicero  ad  Attic,  b.  1. 
epist.  8. 


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ANCIENT  MOUTH  OF  A  WELL.  201 

figures  of  divinities ;  and  which,  from  the  subject,  had  probably  be- 
longed to  the  temple  of  Apollo,  being  one  of  the  sacred  wells,  which 
were  used  in  sacrificial  lustrations.  It  would  be  superfluous  to  enter 
into  any  details  concerning  these  sacred  wells,  of  which  Paciaudi 
has  treated  at  length,  in  his  Puteus  sacer.  The  Corinthian  well, 
which  is  of  the  Aeginitic,  or  archaic  style,  seems  to  allude  to  the 
reconciliation  of  Apollo  and  Hercules,  who  had  been  at  variance  on 
account  of  the  tripod,  which  the  latter  had  seized  from  Delphi. 

The  son  of  Alcmena  is  seen  armed  with  his  bow  and  quiver,  with 
the  Nemean  club,  and  his  shoulders  mantled  with  the  lion's  skim 
followed  by  a  majestic  female,  perhaps  Juno,  clothed  with  an  ample 
peplos,  and  her  body  girded  by  a  zone.     She  is  preceded  by  Minerva, 
covered  with  a  long  peplos,  with  short  Doric  sleeves,  armed  with  the 
aegis,  and  holding  a  long  spear  in  her  left  hand,  with  the  point  down- 
wards; and  in  her  right,  a  helmet  ornamented  with  the  lophos,  seeming, 
by  this  peaceful  demeanor,  to  offer  friendship  to  Apollo,  who,  clothed 
with  a  short  vest,  and  furnished  with  his  cithara  and  plectrum,  meets 
her,  and  is  followed  by  Diana,  known  by  the  bow  and  quiver,  and  a 
stag,  which  she  is  leading  by  the  leg.     She  wears  the  under  tunic, 
and  the  long  outer  peplos,  reaching  to  her  feet,  while  her  waist  is 
bound  by  the  zone.     The  third  labour  which  Hercules  was  obliged 
to  perform  for  Eurystheus,  was  to  bring  alive,  into  his  presence,  a 
stag  with  golden  horns,  and  brazen  feet,  celebrated  for  its  extraor- 
dinary swiftness,  and  sacred  to  Diana,  who,  Avhen  he  had  caught  it, 
took  the  animal  from  him  ;  but,  a  reconciliation  taking  place,  restored 
it  to  him.     This  circumstance  seems  to  be  represented  on  the  pre- 
sent marble. 

The  next  figure  is  probably  Latona,  habited  with  the  ^ua-^uXulog 
yjluv,  or  tunica  axillaris,  the  sleeves  being  open,  but  fastened  down 
the  arm  with  mgowi,  or  buttons.  She  is  followed  by  Mercury,  re- 
markable for  the  form  of  his  sr^va  rshxu,  or  talaria;  his  body  is 
naked,  and  he  has  only  a  simple  chlamys  thrown  over  his  arms. 

Next  are  three  females,  holding  each  other  by  the  hand,  and 
dancing:  they  are  habited  with  long  and  ample  garments.     The 

VOL.   II.  D   D 


202  ANCIENT  MOUTH  OF  A  WELL. 

first  has  the  tunic  and  peplos :  the  second  has  only  her  outer  robe ;  her 
head  is  covered  with  the  credenmon,  or  veil,  which  falls  down  upon  her 
breast,  and  is  terminated  with  a  gourxoc,  or  weight,  to  keep  it  down,  re- 
sembling the  form  of  an  almond.  Round  the  lower  part  of  her  body  is 
the  zone.  The  third  figure  has  a  girdle,  which  encircles  her  left  shoulder 
and  right  side ;  and  she  is  clothed  with  two  garments,  but  of  such 
tine  materials,  that  the  body  is  seen  through  them.  These  thin  trans- 
parent robes  are  the  xiftQigixx'  and  Tugctvlividiu1  of  the  Greeks,  and  the 
Coae  vestes  of  the  Latins,  which  were  termed  vitrecE  and  pellucidce. 
All  the  female  figures  are  habited  in  long  garments,  the  iXxs^tlmeg 
and  sXxurmiir'Koi  of  the  ancients.  Of  these  three  figures,  that  which 
is  furthest  from  Mercury  probably  represents  Venus,  as  there  is 
more  tenuity  in  her  dress,  and  her  motions  indicate  that  airy  ele- 
gance which  may  be  supposed  to  characterise  the  goddess  of  love. 
The  two  others  which  accompany  her  are  probably  her  daughters, 
the  two  Graces  known  to  the  Athenians  by  the  names  of  Auxo  and 
Hegemone,  and  to  the  Lacedaemonians  by  those  of  Kleta  and 
Phaenna,5  which,  as  they  were  the  supposed  attendants  of  love  and 
friendship,  form  the  allegorical  parts  of  the  reconciliation  between 
Apollo  and  Hercules.  We  are  informed  by  Pausanias+  that  the 
Graces  were  represented  clothed  by  the  most  ancient  sculptors  and 
painters;  but  Cupid  stole  their  pepla,s  and  they  were  afterwards  re- 
presented naked.  The  same  author6  mentions  a  group  of  five  statues 
at  Delphi,  representing  the  dispute  between  Apollo  and  Hercules 
for  the  tripod,  in  which  the  former  is  accompanied  by  Latona  and 
Diana,  and  the  latter  by  Minerva.  The  same  order  has  been  pre- 
served in  the  Corinthian  well. 

The  figures  are  in  very  low  relief,  and  partake  of  the  dry  rigidity 
of  the  earliest  sculpture:  their  motions  are  stiff  and  unbending,  and 
the  folds  of  their  vests  formal  and  monotonous :  there  is,  however, 


1  Jul.  Pollux  Onomast.  b.  7.  c.  13.  seg.  49;  he  terms  it  KipPccpnov  litupavys  %iW(irxof. 

2  Id.  b.  7.  c.  17.  seg.  76,  Tapocvlivrftor  $taf>aves  env  tyhfta.  3  Pausan.  b.  9.  c.  35. 

4  Loc.  cit.  »  Antholog.  b.  4.  c.  19.  epig.  4.  6  B.  10.  c.  13. 


ANCIENT  MOUTH  OF  A  WELL.  203 

a  certain  nobleness  of  character,  which  impresses  the  beholder; 
and  the  germ  of  good  taste,  which  was  operative  even  in  the  infancy 
of  the  art,  is  apparent  in  the  simplicity  of  the  style.  But  before 
this  could  be  wrought  up  to  the  ease  and  elegance  of  nature,  many 
difficulties  were  to  be  vanquished,  and  many  toilsome  efforts  to  be 
made.  It  is  evident,  from  the  words  of  Cicero,'  that  the  Sicyonian 
sculptor,  Canachus,  worked  in  this  style ;  and  it  appears,  from  Quin- 
tilian,s  that  Calon  and  Egesias  sculptured  in  the  same  manner;  that 
Calamis  was  a  little  less  harsh ;  and  that  Myron 3  was  superior  to 
Calamis :  but  the  perfection  of  the  art  was  owing  to  the  genius  and 
the  industry  of  Polycletos,  Phidias,  Alcamenes,  Scopas,  Lysippos, 
and  Praxiteles.  We  see  also  that  Callimachus  was  of  the  same 
school,  as  there  is  an  archaic  bas  relief  in  the  capitol  which  contains 
his  name  :  it  is  very  highly  finished  ;  and  we  know  that  Callimachus 
was  celebrated  for  the  extreme  diligence  of  his  works.4 

Some  other  examples  of  this  ancient  style  of  sculpture  have  been 
found  in  Greece,  the  most  important  of  which  are  the  well  known 
statues  of  iEgina.  It  is  also  seen  on  some  of  the  early  coins  of 
Greece ;  particularly  those  of  Athens,  Phocis,  Corinth,  Pharsalia, 
Larissa,  and  Arcadia,  and  upon  several  coins  of  Sicily.  It  was  no 
doubt  imitated  in  later  times,  long  after  it  had  ceased  to  be  the 
style  commonly  practised. 

In  the  Villa  Albani,  at  Rome,  there  is  a  bas-relief,  on  which  the 
archaic  and  the  usual  style  are  represented  on  the  same  marble : s 
but  the  most  interesting  of  these  imitations,  in  the  present  instance, 
is  a  puteale  in  the  capitol,  the  subject  and  style  of  which  so  nearly 
resemble  the  well  of  Corinth,  that  it  appears,  in  some  respects,  to 


1  Canachi  signa  rigidiora  sunt  quam  ut  imitentur  veritatem.     Brut.  18. 
*  Duriora,  etTuscanicis  proxima  Calou,  atque  Egesias,  jam  minus  rigida  Calamis,  molliora 
adhuc  supra  dictis  Myron  fecit.     Institut.  Oral.  b.  12.  c.  10. 

3  See  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  34.  c.  8.  *  See  Pliny,  loc.  cit. 

1  This  singular  piece  of  sculpture  is  denominated  L'Ercole  riposante. 

D   D  2 


204  ANCIENT  MOUTH  OF  A  WELL. 

have  been  copied  from  it,  although  the  figures  differ  in  their  number 
and  their  attributes.  It  has  not,  however,  the  noble  simplicity  of 
the  Corinthian  marble.  The  figures,  which  are  more  highly  finished, 
exhibit  more  delicate  elegance,  and  more  waving  grace ;  and  I  con- 
ceive it  to  be  an  imitation,  rather  than  an  original,  of  the  style  which 
it  represents.1 


1  See  the  work  on  tlie  Capitoline  Museum,  with  engravings  by  Ferdinando  Mori,  and 
illustrations  by  Lorenzo  Re.     Sculture  del  Campidoglio,  tomo  2.  12.  tav.  2  Sc  3. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Tour  of  Argolis — To  Nemea — Ruins  of  Kleonai — Cave  of  the  Nemean  lion — Fount  Langia — 
Ruins  of  Nemea — Village  of  Kutchukmadi — Village  of  Saint  George — Phliasian  plain — 
Pass  of  Tretos — Fine  view  of  the  plain  of  Argos — Ruins  of  Argos — Theatre — Acropolis — 
Cyclopian  walls — Final  history  of  Argos — The  Inachos — Source  of  the  Erasinos — Lake  of 
Lerna — The  Hydra — Mount  Pontinos — Ruins  of  Mycena? — Treasury  of  Atreus — Gate  of 
the  Lions — Acropolis — Cyclopian  walls — Ruins  of  Tiryns — Nauplia. 

TO  NEMEA. 

JDEING  desirous  of  visiting  the  ancient  territory  of  Argolis,  the 
most  interesting  part  of  the  Peloponnesos,  we  left  some  of  our 
luggage  at  Corinth,  intending  to  return  thither  in  our  way  back  to 
Patra.  We  set  out  on  the  third  of  December,  and  were  quite  over- 
powered by  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun. 

We  passed  over  a  deep  ravine,  perhaps  the  same  along  which 
Pasimelos  and  Alkimenes  escaped  from  Corinth  to  Sicyon  in 
the  time  of  Agesilaos.  It  appears  that  the  walls  of  Corinth  were 
intersected  by  this  ravine,  and  extended  only  to  the  edge  of  the 
opposite  banks.1  We  passed  by  a  fountain,  and  some  remains  of 
Roman  brickwork,  and  crossed  some  small  streams.  At  the  foot 
of  the  hills  which  enclose  the  plain  are  two  tumuli,  some  ancient 
quarries  of  stone,  and  some  traces  of  buildings. 

In  thirty-seven  minutes  from  Corinth  we  reached  the  extremity 
of  the  plain,  and  began  to  ascend  some  gentle  eminences,  com- 
posed of  a  light  coloured  argillaceous  soil,  which  have  been  rent 

1   Xenoplion,  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  4. 


206  RUINS  OF  KLEONAI. 

by  earthquakes,  and  furrowed  by  winter  torrents.  In  a  short  space 
of  time  we  crossed  five  rivulets  running  towards  the  Corinthian 
gulf.  To  our  right  was  the  village  of  Rakani,  and  further  on  to  our 
left  that  of  Omar  Tschaousch,  with  a  few  cypresses  about  it. 

A  short  way  further  two  small  streams  from  the  right  cross  the 
road,  and  join  a  larger  stream  which  is  on  the  left,  flowing  towards 
Corinth.     Near  the  junction  of  the  latter  are  some  ancient  vestiges. 

In  two  hours  and  thirty-three  minutes  from  Corinth,  we  arrived  at 
the  ruins  of  Kleonai,  at  present  named  Kourtese,  and  situated  upon 
a  circular  and  insulated  hill,  which  seems  to  have  been  completely 
covered  with  buildings.  On  the  side  of  the  hill  are  six  ancient 
terrace  walls  of  the  third  style  of  masonry,  rising  one  above  another, 
on  which  the  houses  and  streets  were  situated.  Strabo,1  as  well  as 
Homer,2  calls  it  a  well-built  town,  and  says  that  it  extended  round 
a  hill,  and  was  80  stadia  from  Corinth,  which  agrees  nearly  with 
two  hours  and  a  half  that  it  took  us  to  reach  it,  from  that  place. 
The  Acrocorinthos,  which  had  been  concealed  from  us  by  intervening 
hills,  became  visible  from  hence  in  a  direction  of  N.  65  E.,  and 
Strabo  says  he  saw  it  from  the  Acrocorinthos  Both  the  geographer 
and  Pausanias  call  it  a  small  town.  The  walls  of  this  city  appear 
to  owe  their  dilapidation  more  to  violence  than  to  time,  as  where 
the}7  have  been  suffered  to  remain  their  preservation  is  perfect. 
They  were  probably  demolished  by  the  destructive  fury  of  the 
tyrants  of  the  world  at  the  period  of  the  taking  of  Corinth.  Ac- 
cording to  the  testimony  of  Pausanias,  the  detested  tyranny  of  the 
Romans  destroyed,  at  that  unhappy  epoch,  all  the  fortified  places 
in  Greece.5  The  destruction  of  many  most  interesting  remains  of 
Grecian  fortification  is  no  doubt  to  be  attributed  to  the  overbearing 
policy  of  that  people. 


1  nri  Aopw  Trtfioixsujwvo'j  ra.v1a.yjhv  xai  7s7£i%i<r/A£you  xa\u>s.     15.  8.  p.  377. 

'  Iliad.  2.  v.  570. 

5  whiffl  TespitiXov  9<rcu  hhtx><rptvou  troKtis  rt<ra.v.    B.  2.  c.  1. 


NEMEAN  LION.  207 

Near  Kleonai,  Hercules  waylaid,  and  destroyed,  the  sons  of 
Actor,1  when  on  their  way  to  the  Isthmian  games.  A  temple  was 
erected  to  Hercules2  in  the  vicinity;  the  only  temple  which  Pausanias 
mentions  at  this  place  was  that  of  Minerva. 

The  Nemean  games  were  sometimes  celebrated  at  Kleonai.'  The 
great  road  from  the  southern  parts  of  the  Peloponnesos  to  Corinth 
passed  by  this  city,  and  was  much  more  frequented  than  that  which 
led  through  Epidauros,  and  along  the  Saronic  gulf. 

Not  far  from  the  ruins  of  Kleonai  is  a  ridge  of  hills,  one  of  which 
is  called  ayiov  O^oc,  "  the  holy  mountain,"  on  which  are  the  remains  of 
a  small  town,  or  castle,  situated  above  the  extensive  village  of  Agios 
Baslli,  probably  Tenea,4  which  was  sixty  stadia  from  Corinth,  on 
the  way  to  Mycense. 

As  we  proceeded,  we  passed  by  several  imperfect  traces  of  an- 
tiquity. Some  of  the  country  was  rich  and  cultivated,  but  it  was, 
in  general,  sterile  and  neglected.  In  several  places  the  horizontal 
surface  of  the  rocks  over  which  we  passed  is  cut  into  channels ; 
probably  for  the  draining  of  the  rain  water.  A  few  paces  to  the 
right  of  the  road  are  three  natural  caverns  in  the  rock  ;  they  are  of 
small  dimensions,  and  certainly  not  large  enough  for  the  Nemean 
lion,  which  some5  imagined  had  its  den  near  Kleonai ;  but,  accord- 
ing to  Hesiod,6  it  ravaged  the  country  about  Trctos,  Nemea,  and 
Apesos :  Diodorus7  and  Pausanias8  say  it  lived  at  Mount  Tretos, 
between  Nemea  and  Mycenae ;  Apollodorus9  affirms  that  the  cave 
had  two  entrances.  Pausanias  says  there  were  two  roads  from 
Kleonai  to  Argos,  one  for  pedestrians,  the  other,  which  passes  by 

■  Pausan.  b.  5.  c.  2. 

*  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  4.  c.  33.  Small  copper  coins  of  Kleonai  have  been  found,  with  the  head 
of  Hercules  on  one  side,  and  on  the  reverse  KAEii  within  a  wreath.  There  are  imperial 
coins  of  the  same  city. 

3  Pindar,  Nem.  Od.  4.  v.  27- — Plutarch's  life  of  Aratus. 
Stiabo,  b.  S.  p.  3S0.     Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  5. 

5  Cleoneeo  jam  tempora  clusus  hiatu 
Alcides.     Valer.  Flaccus,  Argonaut,  b.  1. 
Deor.  Generat.  v.  331.  T  B.  4.  c.  11.  8B.  2.  c.  15.  »  B.  2. 


208  FOUNT  OF  LANGIA. 

Tretos,  for  carriages.  We  pursued  that  which  leads  to  Nemea,  and 
found  it  extremely  bad ;  the  rocks,  for  a  considerable  way,  are 
curiously  hewn  into  a  variety  of  channels. 

Having  proceeded  thirty-five  minutes  from  the  ruins  of  Kleonai,  we 
came  in  view  of  the  citadel  of  Argos,  at  the  distance  of  several  miles 
to  the  left ;  and  in  thirty-five  minutes  more  had  the  first  view  of  the 
temple  of  the  Nemean  Jupiter.  At  the  entrance  of  the  plain  of  Ne- 
mea, we  came  to  a  spring  in  a  rock,  with  some  large  stones,  and  ancient 
traces  in  the  vicinity.  This  was  probably  the  fountain  Langia.  At 
the  time  that  Adrastos,  King  of  Argos,  was  leading  his  army  through 
Nemea,  for  the  purpose  of  attacking  Thebes,  he  was  overpowered  by 
a  burning  thirst,  and  meeting  Hypsipile,  who  had  the  care  of  Opheltes, 
or  Archemoros,  son  of  Lycurgus,  King  of  Nemea,  he  made  her 
accompany  him  to  the  fountain  of  Langia.  In  order  to  avoid  all 
delay,  she  laid  the  child  upon  the  ground,  but,  on  her  return,  found 
it  had  been  killed  by  a  serpent.  The  fountain,  from  thence,  took 
the  name  of  Archemoros.'  Pausanias*  calls  it  Adrasteia;  and  it  is 
singular  that  he  seems  ignorant  of  the  origin  of  this  appellation. 

I  purchased  at  Corinth  a  colonial  copper  coin  of  that  city,  on 
which  is  represented  the  death  of  Opheltes ;  on  one  side  is  the  head 
of  Domitian,  CAES  DOMITIAN  AVG.  Rev.  C.L.  I.  COR.  a  serpent 
with  the  child  in  his  mouth,  and  an  armed  warrior  (Adrastos3)  at- 
tacking it.  There  is  another  coin  of  Corinth,  of  Septimius  Severus, 
with  a  similar  reverse/ 

There  was  anciently  a  road  from  Corinth  to  Argos  called  Konto- 
poreia,  and  Athenseus5  cites  Ptolemy  in  his  seventh  Book  of  Com- 
mentaries, Avhere  he  mentions  a  fountain  on  that  road,  the  water 
of  which  was  colder  than  snow,  and  consequently  dangerous  to  drink. 
This  was  probably  not  the  way  which  passed  through  Nemea. 


1  Apollodor.  b.  3.     Stat.Theb.  b.  4.  v.  717,  et  seq.  Lactant.  *  13.  1.  c.  15. 

1  .Apollodor.  loc.  cit.  4  In  the  collection  of  James  Millingen,  Esq. 

s  Deipnosoph.  b.  2.  c.  5. 


DORIC  TEMrLE  OF  NEMEA.  209 

From  the  fount  of  Langia  we  descended  to  the  deep"  Nemean 
plain,  and  arrived  at  the  temple  in  four  hours  and  ten  minutes  from 
Corinth.  As  there  was  no  place  in  the  vicinity  where  we  could 
obtain  shelter  for  the  night,  we  reserved  for  the  next  day  our 
examination  of  the  temple,  and  proceeded  an  hour  and  a  half  further 
to  the  village  of  Kutchukmadi,  at  which  we  arrived  after  traversing 
some  vineyards  and  olive-groves.  The  country  about  this  place  is 
remarkable  for  its  humidity ;  and  I  believe  that  all  the  inhabitants, 
without  a  single  exception,  were  afflicted  with  violent  colds  and 
coughs,  as  in  England,  which  surprised  me  the  more,  because  coughs 
are  unusual  in  this  southern  climate. 

The  next  morning  we  returned  to  the  temple  at  Nemea,  of  which 
three  columns  only  are  standing;  two  of  which,  belonging  to  the 
space  between  the  antae,  support  their  architrave.  These  columns 
are  four  feet  six  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  thirty-one  feet  ten 
inches  and  a  half  in  height,  exclusive  of  their  capitals.  The  single 
column  is  five  feet  three  inches  diameter,  and  belongs  to  the  peri- 
style. The  temple  was  hexastyle  and  peripteral,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  had  fourteen  columns  on  the  sides.2  The  general  intercolum- 
niation  is  seven  feet  and  a  half,  and  those  at  the  angles  five  feet  ten 
inches  and  a  quarter.  It  stands  upon  three  steps,  each  of  which  is 
one  foot  two  inches  in  height.  The  capital  of  the  exterior  column 
has  been  shaken  out  of  its  place,  and  will  probably  ere  long  fall  to 
the  ground.  The  lower  part  of  the  cella  remains  ;  the  columns  have 
fallen  in  such  regular  order  that  the  temple  evidently  appears  to 
have  been  destroyed  by  the  sudden  concussion  of  an  earthquake, 
rather  than  by  the  lingering  and  desultory  decay  of  revolving  time. 

I  have  not  seen  in  Greece  any  Doric  temple,  the  columns  of 
which  are  of  such  slender  proportions  as  those  of  Nemea.  The 
epistylia  are  thin  and  meager,  and  the  capitals  too  small  for  the 
height  of  the  columns.     It  is  constructed  of  a  soft  calcareous  stone, 


'  fiahitthw  Nepsa. — Pind.  Nem.  Od.  3.  v.  30. 
"  See  introduction  to  Magna  Gnvcin,  by  W.  Wilkins,  Esq. 
VOL.  II.  E  R 


210  RUINS  AND  PLAIN  OF  NEMEA. 

which  is  an  aggregate  of  sand  and  small  petrified  shells,  and  the 
columns  are  coated  with  a  fine  stucco.  Pausanias'  praises  the 
beauty  of  the  temple ;  but,  even  in  his  time,  the  roof  had  fallen,  and 
not  a  single  statue  was  left.  I  found  no  fragments  of  marble  amongst 
the  ruins;  but  an  excavation  would  probably  be  well  repaid,  as  the 
temple  was  evidently  thrown  down  at  one  moment,  and,  if  it  con- 
tained any  sculptured  marbles,  they  are  still  concealed  by  the  ruins. 

The  columns  are  nearly  covered  with  a  thin  geographical  lichen, 
which  owes  its  formation  to  the  dampness  of  the  place.1 

Near  the  temple  is  a  ruined  church,  and  several  blocks  of  stone ; 
some  fluted  Doric  frusta,  and  a  capital  of  small  proportions, 
serve  as  an  altar.  This  was  perhaps  the  sepulchre  of  Opheltes, 
which,  according  to  Pausanias,  was  surrounded  with  a  wall.  I 
searched  in  vain  for  parsley,  which  is  said  to  have  sprung  from 
the  blood  of  Opheltes,5  and  which  was  employed  to  wreath  the 
brows  of  the  victors  in  the  games.  I  observed  no  remains  of  the 
tumulus4  of  Lycurgus,  King  of  Nemea,  nor  any  traces  of  the 
theatre,  or  stadium.  Nemea  was  indeed  rather  a  village  than  a 
town,  and  Pausanias  calls  it  yu^ov.  It  was  probably  inhabited 
chiefly  by  the  priests  and  attendants  on  the  god,  and  those  who 
prepared  the  quinquennial  games. 

The  plain  exhibits  a  very  even  surface ;  it  is  surrounded  by  barren 
hills  of  a  dark  and  melancholy  hue,  the  highest  of  which,  at  the 
north-east  extremity,  has  a  flat  summit,  and  is  probably  that  which 
was  called  Apesas  by  the  ancients.  This  is  visible  from  the  heights 
above  Corinth,  and  from  the  acropolis  of  Argos :  according  to  Pau- 
sanias,5 Perseus  first  sacrificed  to  Jupiter  Apesantios  on  this  moun- 
tain. 

Nemea  is  more  characterised  by  gloom  than  most  of  the  places  I 
have  seen.   The  splendour  of  religious  pomp,  and  the  busy  animation 


B.  2.  c.  15.  vat;  '  Statius  calls  it  gellida  Nemea. — Theb.  b.  4.  v.  G46. 

3  2u  Je  b-«W  tlifjsif  kpyjpop'  sv  Ns/AEa. — Antholog.         4  %«>/*«  y\S- — Pausan. 

*  B.  2.  c.  15. 


PHLIASIAN  PLAIN.  211 

of  gymnastic  and  equestrian  exercises,  have  been  succeeded  by 
the  dreary  vacancy  of  a  death-like  solitude.  We  saw  no  living 
creatures  but  a  ploughman  and  his  oxen,  in  a  spot  which  was  once 
exhilarated  by  the  gaiety  of  thousands,  and  resounded  with  the 
shouts  of  a  crowded  population.  The  Nemean  games  continued 
long  after  those  of  Olympia  were  abolished. 

The  forest,  which  supplied  Hercules  with  his  club,'  could  not  at 
present  furnish  a  common  walking  stick.  There  is  not  a  single  tree 
in  the  whole  plain,  and  only  a  few  bushes  about  the  temple. 


TO  ARGOS. 


On  the  5th  of  December  we  took  the  road  to  Argos,  but  deviated 
towards  the  north  on  the  way  to  Trikala,  in  order  to  examine  some 
ruins  which,  we  had  been  informed,  were  in  that  direction.  Wo 
passed  through  the  large  and  populous  village  of  Saint  George,  in- 
habited by  Greeks,  and  swarming  with  pigs,  a  sure  sign  that  no 
Turks  lived  in  the  vicinity.  From  hence  we  descended  to  the  fine 
cultivated  plain  of  Phlious,  which  is  about  eight  miles  in  length,  and 
enriched  with  extensive  vineyards,  currant  plantations,  and  corn 
land,  and  forming  the  principal  part  of  the  ancient  Phliasia,  to 
which  Homer1  gives  the  epithet  of  sgcilavq.  Phliasia,  according  to 
Stephanus,'  took  its  name  ita^u.  to  cpxem,  from  its  abounding  in  fruit. 

The  territory  of  Phliasia,  and  its  capital  Phlious,  were  first  named 
Arantia,  from  Aras,  an  inhabitant  of  that  country,  whose  daughter 


1   According  to  Pausanias,  the  club  of  Hercules  was  of  olive,  b.  2.  c.  31. 
'"  Pleasant."  Iliad,  2.  v.  57 1.         '  De  Uibib.  p.  741.  v.  pAiouj. 

E  E  2 


212  JRUINS  OF  PHLIOUS. 

afterwards  transmitted  to  it  her  own  name  of  Araithurea,   under 
which  denomination  it  was  known  to  Homer.1 

According  to  Pausanias,  Phlias,  son  of  Bacchus,  was  the  third 
who  gave  his  name  to  this  country  ;  and,  it  is  to  be  observed,  that 
the  exuberant  fertility  of  its  vineyards  has  always  been,  as  at  present, 
the  theme  of  panegyric,  and  that  it  produces  the  best  wine  in  the 
peninsula.  The  Corinth  grape,  or  currant,  is  the  produce  of  this 
fertile  plain,  and  is  not  cultivated  at  Corinth,  but  took  the  name  of 
corant  or  currant,  from  Corinth,  as  they  are  embarked  on  that  gulf. 
Phlious  retained  its  ancient  name  after  the  Turks  had  taken  posses- 
sion of  Greece,  as  we  know  from  the  testimony  of  Laonicus  Chalco- 
condyla.*  It  is  at  present  called  Staphlika.  The  Asopos  rises  in 
this  territory,  which  it  fertilizes  with  its  mceandering  stream. 

Pausanias3  says,  that  the  centre  of  the  Peloponnesos  was  in  this 
vicinity.  The  same  author  mentions  so  many  temples  and  curiosities 
at  Phlious,  that  we  were  particularly  anxious  to  discover  its  situa- 
tion, and  I  know  not  by  what  fatality  we  missed  it,  as  we  must  have 
been  within  a  very  short  distance  of  it;  but  I  suspect  that  our 
guides  and  agogiates  were  as  anxious  to  arrive  at  Argos  as  we  were 
to  discover  the  ruins  of  ancient  cities.  A  traveller  is  so  much  in  the 
power  of  these  people  in  Greece,  that  he  is  liable  to  lose  the  op- 
portunity of  exploring  many  interesting  situations.  I  should  have 
missed  several  other  ruins,  had  I  not  shown  a  peremptory  de- 
termination to  go  my  own  way. 

I  have  been  informed,  by  some  travellers,4  that  there  are  many 
remains  at  Phlious,5  and  particularly  the  ruins  of  a  very  ancient 
Doric  temple.  About  half  an  hour  from  the  village  of  Saint 
George,   we  came    to    some   ruins,    but,   instead    of   the    ancient 

1  See  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  3S2.  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  12.  Stephauus  in  voc.  A^aiSu^E*  and  <J>?joi>/. 
P.  152.  and  1*1.  s  De  Rebus  Turcicis.  3  B.  2.  c.  13. 

4  Colonel  Leake  and  Mons.  Pouqueville. 

*  The  coins  of  Phlious  which  have  been  found  represent  an  ox  on  one  side  with  a  wheel  on 
the  other,  witli  the  inscription  $AIA£I£2N.  I  found  several  small  coins  in  Greece,  which 
represent  on  one  side  a  bull  butting,  and  on  the  reverse  the  letter  *,  which  are  supposed  to 
belong  to  Phlious.     Imperial  coins  haye  also  been  found  of  this  city  ;  they  are  all  of  brass. 


CAVE  OF  THE  NEMEAN  LION.  213 

Phlious,  there  were  only  eight  large  square  blocks  in  the  plain, 
with  scarcely  any  traces  about  them.  These  remains  are  known  by 
the  name  of  Senduchia,  a  Turkish  word,  signifying  boxes,  to  which 
they  fancy  a  resemblance  in  the  blocks.  The  town  of  Trikala  is 
eight  hours  from  hence. 

We  returned  towards  Argos,  disappointed  with  our  deviation  and 
loss  of  time.  After  we  had  again  passed  the  village  of  Saint  George, 
the  vale  contracted,  and  we  observed  the  monastery  of  the  saint, 
situated  upon  a  steep  precipice  to  the  right,  rising  nobly  from  the 
plain.  To  the  left  is  another  rock,  almost  perpendicular ;  in  which 
there  is  a  cave.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  hill  anciently  called  Tretos, 
and  the  den  of  the  Nemean  lion,  who  has  been  succeeded  by  a 
venerable  hermit  of  the  Greek  church.  I  would  not,  however,  be 
thought  to  compare  the  ferocious  animal  to  the  aged  anchorite,  for 
his  snowy  beard  and  tattered  garment  are  said  to  be  attended  with 
goodness  of  character  and  sanctity  of  manners.  His  abstinence  is 
not  even  tempted  by  the  good  Phliasian  wine ;  he  drinks  only  the 
pure  fluid  of  the  spring,  and  eats  nothing  but  the  vegetable  aliment 
fathered  with  his  own  hand ;  thus  mortifying  the  body  for  the  good 
of  his  soul. 

Having  proceeded  through  a  narrow  glen  (from  which  the  moun- 
tain probably  took  the  name  of  T^7o5,  or  "  the  perforation"),  a  small 
circular  plain,  surrounded  by  barren  hills,  opened  before  us.  We 
observed,  for  a  considerable  way,  the  traces  of  walls,  composed  of 
small  stones,  apparently  not  ancient.  This  must  always  have  been 
a  pass  of  importance;  and  was,  no  doubt,  fortified  at  different  epochs. 

We  went  by  a  fountain  with  some  ancient  traces  near  it;  and 
passed  over  the  foundations  of  some  fine  walls,  which  seem  to 
have  been  built  to  guard  the  pass.  This  was  probably  the  ancient 
boundary  between  the  Argian  and  Phliasian  territories;  and  the 
place  where  the  Argian  army  was  posted  to  prevent  the  Lacedae- 
monians, under  their  king  Agis,  from  entering  the  plain  of  Argos." 


>  See  Thucjd.  b.  5.  c.  58. 


214  VIEW  OF  THE  PLAIN  OF  ARGOS. 

The  Argians  imagined  that  their  enemies  would  direct  their  march 
through  the  easy  roads  of  the  Phliasian,  or  Nemean,  plains ;  but  it 
seems  the  Lacedaemonians  proceeded  by  a  pass  upon  the  lofty 
ridge  of  mountains,  which  rise  from  the  north-west  side  of  the  plain 
of  Argos. 

We  began  to  descend  by  a  badly  paved  way,  and  came  to  a  clear 
and  copious  spring,  which,  forming  a  small  but  rapid  stream,  rushes 
down  the  rocky  declivity  of  the  hill  into  the  plain  of  Argos.  At  the 
outlet  of  the  glen  we  experienced  a  sudden  burst  of  one  of  those 
magic  prospects,  which  occur  so  often  in  this  beautiful  and  classic 
region.  The  view  extended  over  the  rich  and  even  plain  of  Argos, 
with  its  capital  and  pointed  citadel,1  beyond  which  the  lake  of 
Lerna  glimmers  faintly  in  the  view.  The  ancient  Mycenae2  is  ob- 
served on  the  left,  or  south-east  side  of  the  plain.  Further  down 
are  seen  the  ruins  of  Tiryns,  and  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
plain,  Nauplia  and  its  lofty  acropolis3  rise  conspicuously  from  the 
sea.  The  north-west  side  of  the  plain  is  bounded  by  the  towering 
heights,  which  branch  from  Mainalos  and  Zarex ;  and  the  south- 
east side  by  a  lower  and  less  precipitous  range,  of  which  Mount 
Euboia,*  near  Mycenae,  is  the  principal.  The  horizon  is  terminated 
by  the  blue  line  of  the  Argolic  gulf. 

After  drawing  this  beautiful  view,  we  descended  to  the  plain  of 
Argos,  and  near  the  foot  of  the  hill  observed  the  traces  of  a  thick 
wall.  The  plain  is  a  perfect  flat,  composed  of  rich  soil  well  culti- 
vated, and  mottled  with  villages.  Several  ploughs  drawn  by  oxen 
were  tilling  the  ground.  We  observed  great  quantities  of  wild  geese 
and  plovers  flying  about,  far  less  alarmed  at  the  sight  of  man  than 
in  England,  where  they  are  more  often  pursued  by  sportsmen.  We 
passed  to  the  right  of  a  village  named  Phikti,  where  there  are  some 
ancient  remains,  and  a  square  tower  composed  of  large  stones. 
Our  road   crossed   some  small   torrent  beds,   at  present  dry,   but 

1  Bearing  South  10.  West.  ■  Bearing  South  60.  East. 

5  Beaiing  South  10.  East.  *  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  17. 


GRAND  VIEW  OF  ARGOS.  215 

evidently  at  times  filled  with  impetuous  streams.  We  passed  by  a 
low  rocky  hill  and  a  church,  and  went  through  a  straggling  village 
called  Kutsopodi.  Further  on  we  crossed  a  small  stream,  and  be- 
yond it  a  great  torrent  bed  called  Zeria.  This  is  Father1  Inachos. 
A  tumulus,  composed  of  small  stones,  is  seen  upon  its  bank,  a  few 
paces  from  which  are  some  large  blocks. 

In  approaching  Argos  the  view  was  particularly  grand.  The 
rocks  of  the  acropolis  rose  close  on  our  right  hand,  with  a  monastery 
perched  upon  the  pinnacle  of  a  steep  precipice;  on  our  left  was  a 
round  eminence  of  moderate  elevation,  probably  the  Phoronaian  hill. 
Before  us  was  the  town  of  Argos,  with  the  distance  closed  by  the 
plain  and  gulf.  We  went  to  the  khan,  which  being  filthy  beyond 
any  thing  that  can  be  conceived,  we  were  obliged  to  lodge  in  the 
house  of  a  mad  Greek,  who  treated  us  with  kindness  and  attention, 
but  distracted  us  with  his  noise  and  drollery,  for  his  madness  was  of 
the  merry  and  innoxious  kind.  The  Turks  have  a  great  respect  for 
fools  and  maniacs,  whom  they  reverence  nearly  as  saints,  and  con- 
ceive them  to  be  under  the  immediate  protection  of  their  prophet. 
A  mad  Greek  is  much  better  treated  than  a  Greek  in  his  senses, 
and  under  such  circumstances  "'twere  folly  to  be  wise;"  and  I  even 
suspected  that  our  mad  host  was  no  fool. 

This  once  celebrated  city  is  at  present  not  half  so  populous  as 
Athens.  Its  inhabitants  do  not  exceed  5000,  the  majority  of  whom 
are  Greeks.  Argos  occupies  a  perfect  flat  at  the  south-east  foot  of 
the  ancient  acropolis.  The  houses  are  small  and  low,  but  inter- 
mingled with  numerous  gardens,  are  dispersed  over  a  considerable 
space,  and  exhibit  the  semblance  of  a  large  straggling  village. 

This  city  contains  two  mosques  and  many  churches,  and  is  go- 
verned by  a  bey,  who  has  forty1  villages  under  his  command.     Most 

1  Stat.  Theb.  b.  5.  Pater  Inachus,  and  b.  4.  ingens  Inachus.  Seneca  gives  it  the  epi- 
thet of  Volucer. — Here.  Oet.  Act.  1.  v.  139. 

*  Des  Mouceaux,  who  travelled  in  Greece  in  1668,  by  orders  of  Louis  XIV.,  says  there 
were  in  his  time  sixty  villages  in  the  plain  of  Argos.  See  Corn.  Le  Bruyen,  vol.  5.  Travels 
in  the  East. 


216  RUINS  OF  ARGOS.     THEATRE.     SUBTERRANITY. 

of  the  ancient  edifices,  with  which  Argos  was  so  copiously  furnished 
and  splendidly  adorned,  have  so  entirely  disappeared,  that  on 
entering  the  town  the  traveller  is  inclined  to  ask  where  are  the 
thirty  temples,  the  costly  sepulchres,  the  gymnasium,  the  stadium, 
and  the  numerous  monuments  and  statues  that  Pausanias  has 
described?  They  have  for  ever  vanished,  for  of  most  of  them  not  a 
trace  is  to  be  found.  The  silent  destruction  of  time,  or  the  fierce 
ravage  of  barbarism,  has  levelled  every  thing  with  the  ground,  ex- 
cept the  theatre,  the  acropolis,  and  some  uninteresting  masses  of 
Roman  architecture. 

The  theatre  is  at  the  south-east  foot  of  the  acropolis.  The  seats, 
which  are  cut  in  the  rock,  are  well  preserved,  and  it  is  of  magni- 
ficent proportions.  In  front  of  the  theatre  is  a  large  Roman  wall  of 
brick,  at  present  named  wkX«;o  Texxis :  a  Turkish  agha,  who  ap- 
peared anxious  to  display  his  knowledge  of  antiquities,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  communicate  information,  assured  me  that  it  was 
formerly  the  seraglio,  or  palace  of  a  king  of  Argos,  and  that  what  I 
mistook  for  a  theatre  was  his  divan.  Another  Turk,  however,  who 
was  present,  corrected  his  friend,  and  said  that  it  was  "  built  for  ten 
thousand  horned  pigs  of  Greeks,  who  used  to  assemble  in  it  for  the 
purpose  of  healing  people  sing,  and  dance,  and  make  fools  of  them- 
selves." 

We  entered  the  house  of  a  Turk  near  the  ruins,  and  were  con- 
ducted to  some  subterraneous  vaulted  chambers,  paved  with  coarse 
mosaic  of  black  and  white  colours.  Our  progress  in  a  passage 
was  stopped  by  a  modern  wall ;  they  assured  us  that  it  continued 
a  long  way  underground,  and  terminated  at  some  other  brick  ruins, 
where  a  similar  mosaic  pavement  is  also  seen.  Apollodorus, ' 
Pausanias,2  and  others,  mention  the  subterraneous  edifice  of  Acri- 
sius,  and  the  brazen  Thalamos,  in  which  his  daughter  Danae  was 
confined.  In  the  time  of  Pausanias  it  contained  the  monument3  of 
Krotopos,  and  the  temple4  of  the  Kresian  Bacchus. 

'  B.  2.  *  B.  2.  c.  23.  '  (trrjix.il.  *  ra»{. 


ACROPOLIS  OF  ARGOS.  217 

Not  being  able  to  proceed  any  further  in  this  passage,  we  returned 
to  the  theatre,  near  which  we  observed  a  fine  mass  of  wall  of  the 
well-joined  polygonal  construction.  Two  of  the  blocks  are  traced 
with  inscriptions,  but  which  are  so  much  corroded  that  only  the 
following  letters  are  legible  : 

E--1TEAIAE  AAflMnAN 

AA-A-SIEXATO  2  O  A 

A-OIFIATEIA 

Over  the  first  is  a  bas  relief  nearly  defaced,  and  representing  ap- 
parently two  female  figures  in  a  sitting  posture.  These  inscriptions 
appear  much  posterior  to  the  construction  of  the  wall.  This  ruin  is 
at  present  called  Limiarti. 

A  little  higher  up  the  acropolis  hill  is  a  brick  ruin,  built  upon  a 
flat  hewn  rock.  One  of  the  internal  walls  contains  a  round  niche 
for  a  statue,  which  an  excavation  might  probably  bring  to  light. 
Some  years  after  I  had  made  the  present  tour  in  Greece,  Veli  Pasha, 
governor  of  the  Morea,  caused  an  excavation  to  be  made  near  the 
theatre,  and  discovered  sixteen  marble  statues  and  busts  in  good  style 
and  preservation,  particularly  one  of  Venus  and  another  of  iEscula- 
pius.  They  were  not  quite  half  the  size  of  life.  On  one  of  the 
statues  was  inscribed  ATTAAOS.  Pausanias1  mentions  an  Athenian 
sculptor  of  this  name  who  made  the  statue  of  Apollo  Lycius  at 
Argos. 

The  most  famous  sculptors  whom  Argos  produced  were  Age- 
lades,  Eladas,  Polycletes,  Phradmon,  Asepodoros,  Antiphanes,  and 
Mucidas. 

Several  gold  medals  of  the  Emperor  Valens  were  also  found  in  a 
sepulchre  near  the  same  spot. 

The  acropolis  stands  upon  a  pointed  rocky  acclivity  of  considerable 
elevation  and  great  natural  strength :  the  walls  and  towers  make 
an  impressive  appearance  from  below;  but,  on  approaching  these 

'  B.  2.  c.  19. 
VOL.   II.  F  F 


218  ACROPOLIS  OF  ARGOS.-CYCLOPIAN  WALLS. 

structures,  the  traveller  is  disappointed  to  find  the  greater  part  of  them 

composed  of  small  stones  and  cement,  the  work  of  the  middle  ages. 

We  ascended  by  a  winding  path,  and  observed  very  few  traces  in 

our  way,  though  Pausanias  mentions  a  stadium  and  five  temples 

within  the  citadel,  or  on  the  way  up  to  it.     Of  these  temples  the 

most  celebrated  was  that  of  Minerva,  in  which  was  the  tomb  of 

Acrisius.1     There  are  still  upon  the  acropolis  some  fine  remains  of 

polygonal  construction,   which  are  probably  the  Cyclopian   walls 

alluded  to  by  Euripides;  as  we  have  no  reason  for  supposing  that 

the  well-joined  polygons  were  not  included  in  that  denomination,  as 

well  as  the  specimens  of  the  rough  and  less  complicated  Tirynthian 

style. 

Euripides  has  some  passages  relative  to  the  Cyclopian  construc- 
tion of  this  city,  which  are  here  subjoined  in  the  note:5 

This  style  is  noticed  by  several  other  authors,  particularly  Apol- 
lodorus,5  Strabo,*  Seneca,5  Statius,6  and  Pausanias;7  but  the  latter 
is  the  only  one  who  particularly  describes  it,  when  speaking  of  the 
walls  of  Tiryns.     They  are  also  hinted  at  by  Virgil:8 

Pliny 9  says,  that,  according  to  Aristotle,  towers  were  invented  by 
the  Cyclopians;  and,  according  to  Theophrastus,  by  the  Tirynthii. 
The  scholiast  of  Statius  pretends  that  every  thing  that  was  remarkable 


1    Ey  1u>  vaui  1rt;  ASijvaj  ev  Aapiirin)  sy  7:;  axfiitoXsi 

Ta<po;  itrliv  Axpttrtov. Euseb. 

e xav  Ttpi;  Apyos  ex^vyia 

Ex6of7£f  avhi;  ht%£<riv  KvuKwirioi;. Ip'i'g-  in  Aul.  v.  534. 

Apyzia.  Isixti  xai  KuxXuirsizv  m\iv. Here.  Fur.  v.  15. 

Imeofioloy  Apyog,  iva,  luyio. 

AaiVa  KvKXunrst,  ovpavta.  vepovlizi. Troad.  v.  I  OS. 

Ao/a&<  fj.iv  iiS'  suiTvpyx'l  'epvpaly.  ytiovo; 

Ovx  iv  TtcXu^pua-OKTiy  ijino;7ai  ^XiJaij. Danae,  v.  2. 

'  B.2.        i  B.  8.  p.  37a.         *  Hercul.  fur.  Act.  4.  v.  996.  «  Theb.  b.  4.  v.  151. 

'  B.  2.  c.  25. 

' Cyclopum  educta  caminis 

Moenia  couspicio. — iEneid.  6.  v.  630. 
•  Nat.  Hist.  b.  7.  c.  56. 


CYCLOPIAN  WALLS.  219 

for  its  great  size  was  said  to  have  been  formed  by  the  Cyclopians. ' 
The  great  difficulty,  however,  is  to  ascertain  who  the  Cyclopians 
were — whence  they  originated — and  at  what  period  they  flourished. 
I  shall  refrain  from  entering  into  a  long  discussion  upon  this  sub- 
ject, in  hopes  that  it  will  be  fully  investigated  by  the  learned  pro- 
moter* of  this  system,  whose  work,  which  is  earnestly  expected,  will, 
no  doubt,  throw  new  light  on  this  recondite,  and  long  neglected 
part  of  primitive  history ;  it  suffices  at  present  to  observe,  that 
Strabo '  had  as  confused  ideas  about  the  Cyclopians  eighteen  cen- 
turies ago  as  we  have  at  present;  he  says  that  they  were  seven  in 
number,  and  came  from  Lycia.  The  scholiast  of  Euripides,4  however, 
maintains  that  they  were  a  Thracian  nation,  so  named  from  one  of 
their  kings,  and  that  they  were  the  best  artists  (TiyjUcci)  of  the  age 
in  which  they  lived.  They  appear  to  have  been  particularly  skilful 
in  constructing  military  fortifications,  and  to  have  diffused  their 
architectural  knowledge  throughout  Greece,  and  many  parts  of 
Italy,  Sicily,  and  Spain.  These  countries  were  colonized  by  the 
Pelasgi  of  Greece,  who  learnt  the  art  of  military  construction  from 
the  Thracian  nation ;  but  it  is  more  probable  that  the  Cyclopians 
themselves  were  the  Pelasgians,  who  settled  at  a  very  early  pe- 
riod in  the  Peloponnesos ;  for  it  is  generally  allowed  that  they  were 
strangers,  and  not  Autochthones.5 

There  are  several  remains  of  ancient  walls  on  the  acropolis  of 
Argos,  consisting  of  the  second  style,  or  well-joined  polygons  ; 
but  not  the  slightest  traces  of  the  rough  Tirynthian  style.  Had 
the  walls   been  originally  composed  of  -these  rough  and   durable 


1  Quicquid  magnitudine  sua  nobile  est,  Cyclopum  rnanu  dicilur  fabricatum.  In  Theb.  I. 
v.  25  1.     Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  369.  note  4. 

Mons.  Louis  Petit  Radel,  Member  of  the  Institute  of  France,  &c. 

3  B.  8.  p.  373. 

*  Orest.  v.  963.  See  the  scholiast's  note  on  this  subject:  and  about  the  Cyclopians  con- 
sult Nullinus  Philomagirus  in  notis  ad  colloq.  int.  Holobarbarum  et  Anypocritum,  p.  38. 
+5.  from  note  in  Hesych.  Lex.  in  voce  KvxKuiitcvr.  vol.  2.  p.  372.  note  20. 

'  Argos  is  called  YltXaayiMii  by  Euripides.     Phceniss.  v.  265. 

pp2 


220  ACROPOLIS  OF  ARGOS. 

masses,  it  is  next  to  impossible  that  they  should  have  so  com- 
pletely disappeared  as  not  to  leave  one  stone  behind ;  and  I  have 
no  doubt  that  the  walls  which  exist  at  the  present  day  are  the  same 
which  Euripides  attributes  to  the  Cyclopians.  The  walls  encircle 
the  summit  of  the  acropolis ;  and  the  modern  castle,  composed 
of  bastions,  and  towers  built  with  small  stones  and  mortar,  is  erected 
on  the  ancient  remains,  in  which  the  lower  parts  of  some  round  and 
square  towers  are  visible.  The  acropolis  is  entirely  deserted,  and 
without  inhabitants.  It  commands  a  view  of  great  interest  and  ex- 
tent, but  seen  from  too  great  a  height  for  picturesque  effect.  The 
whole  plain  of  Argos,  with  the  capital,  villages,  and  gulf,  with  My- 
cenae, Tiryns,  and  Nauplia,  may  be  discriminated  as  in  a  map.  The 
Table  Mountain,  near  Nemea,  is  also  visible. 

We  descended  by  another  way,  and  in  half  an  hour  reached  the 
theatre.  There  were  two  citadels '  at  Argos,  of  which  the  principal, 
above  the  theatre,2  was  called  Larissa  and  Aspis  :  it  owed  its  former 
name  to  the  daughter  of  Pelasgos,5  and  its  latter  to  the  game  of  the 
Shield,  which  was  here  solemnised.4 

The  second  fortress  was  on  a  rocky  eminence  of  moderate  height, 
to  the  north-east  of  the  Larissa :  this  must  be  the  Hill  of  Phoroneus, 
as  there  is  no  other  elevation  in  Argos,  or  its  immediate  vicinity, 
adapted  for  the  position  of  a  fort. 

The  monastery,  which  is  situated  upon  a  steep  rock,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Larissa,  apparently  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple. 

Under  the  monastery  are  some  caverns  containing  spring  water, 
which  probably  finds  its  way,  by  subterraneous  passages,  to  the 
lower  town,  where  it  supplies  the  wells  and  fountains. 

Pausanias5  mentions  a  temple  at  Argos  sacred  to  the  Cephissos, 
under  which  that  river  ran. 


Livy,  b.  34.  c.  25.  *  Plutarch's  life  of  Pyrrhus.  »  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  23. 

*  The  Argians,  as  well  as  the  Boeotians,  were  celebrated  for  the  excellence  of  their  shield; 
hence  the  former  were  termed  xe*i$r$»pas  tew;,  by  iEschylus  Agam.  v.  834.  and  Xtmatriris, 
by  Euripides,  Phceniss.  v.  7" ;  and  Pindar  gives  the  epithet  of  %?v3-aa-jri;  to  Thebes. 

s  B.  2.  c.  20. 


ACROPOLIS  OF  ARGOS.  221 

The  temple  of  Apollo  Deiradiotes  was  in  the  way  up  to  the  La- 
rissa,  and  situated  in  a  spot  called  Deiras,  from  its  position '  on  a 
ridge  of  rock,  which  answers  to  the  situation  of  the  monastery. 

Fourmont*  describes  a  subterraneous  inlet,  which  he  says  pene- 
trates 3000  paces  in  the  Larissa  rock,  being  cut  through  a  dark  co- 
loured stone  full  of  petrified  shells :  he  says  that  the  passage  is  per- 
fectly straight,  but  has  recesses  on  each  side,  not  opposite  to  each 
other.  Plutarch1  informs  us,  that  Cleomenes  broke  open  the  sub- 
terraneous passages  under  Aspis,  and  thus  entered  the  city. 

The  following  very  ancient  inscription  is  seen  in  the  Larissa.  It  ap- 
pears to  consist  of  proper  names.  It  is  considerably  corroded,  but  the 
following  names  may  be  deciphered:  Sthenelas — Ipomedon — Arche- 
micha — Adrastos  — Borthanoras — Kretos  —  Omin  tonos — Destoma- 
chos.   There  seem  to  be  seven  other  names,  which  are  unintelligible. 

lerjv  \uio/>.o. 

KAI  M®  &  r  UAMBoYNArHi 

km  i  r  omooK 

KAlMf>oMBoA|>X$MlKA 
KAlADPAMToM 

k4l  Bof>e4KopAM 

kAlKPSToMB0'*''^0^0'^ 
kAI  D^MToM  A/Ko  M 
KAI  P  o  M  p  A  M 


'  See  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  24.  Edit.  Facii  Romulo  Amaseo  Iuterpret. 

Manuscript  Journal  in  the  King's  Library  at  Paris. 
3  Life  of  Cleomenes. 


222  ARGOS. 

The  approach  to  Argos  was  defended  by  two  long  walls,  ex- 
tending' to  the  sea,  as  at  Athens,  Eleusis,  Megara,  Corinth,  and 
Patrae.  According  to  Plutarch,  * Alcibiades  advised  the  Argians  to 
join  their  city  to  the  sea  by  long  walls ;  and,  for  that  purpose,  sent 
them  masons  from  Athens.  They  were  constructed  in  the  fifteenth 
year  of  the  Peloponnesian  war.' 

We  find  that  Argos  was  at  a  very  early  period  dependant  on 
Mjcenaj,  at  least  in  the  time  of  Perseus.  The  King  of  Mycenae  is 
called  by  Homer  "  the  King  of  many  islands,  and  of  all  Argos;" 
which,  some  are  of  opinion,  signified  the  whole  Peloponnesos.  Aga- 
memnon increased  his  territory,  possessing  Laconia  and  Corinthia. 
The  foundation  of  Argos  by  Inachos  is  supposed  to  have  taken 
place  about  232  years  alter  that  of  Sicyon,  which  corresponds  to 
1856  years  before  our  era.  It  was  for  a  long  time  the  most  flourish- 
ing city  in  Greece,  and  was  enriched  with  the  commerce  of  Assyria 
and  Egypt.4  In  the  time  of  Strabo  it  still  continued  to  be  one 
of  the  first  cities  in  the  Peloponnesos;  and,  owing  to  the  fertility 
of  its  soil,  and  the  advantages  of  its  situation,  was  probably  never 
abandoned  until  the  time  of  Bajazet.  At  present  the  whole  plain 
is  extremely  unhealthy  in  the  autumnal  months,  and  the  malaria 
makes  greater  havoc  in  this  beautiful  country  than  was  ever  occa- 
sioned by  the  Lerneean  hydra,  or  the  Nemean  lion. 

We  find  that  Argos  and  Nauplia  belonged,  in  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury, to  Pietro  di  Federico  Cornaro,  a  noble  Venetian  :  after  his 
death,  his  widow  Bonne,  or  Mary  d'Enguien,  ceded  them  to  the 
republic  of  Venice  in  1388,  with  their  lands  and  forts,  for  the  sum 
of  700  Venetian  ducats  of  gold,  to  be  paid  her  annually,  besides 
2000  ducats  of  gold  upon  the  act  of  cession.5  In  the  year  13.97, 
Argos  was  taken  by  Bajazet;  it  was  then  completely  deserted, 
and  its  walls  were  destroyed.  It  was  rebuilt  by  the  Venetians, 
from  whom  it  was  taken  by  the  Turks  in  1463,  and  after  being 


Diodor.  Sic.  b.  12.  c.  81.  '  Life  of  Alcibia.ies.  3  Thucyd.  b.  5.  c.  82. 

Herodot.  b.  1.  c.  1.  *  Hist,  de  Constantinop.  sous  les  Enip.  Francois. 


THE  RIVER  INACHOS.  223 

retaken  by  the  Venetians,  it  was  in  the  same  year  recovered  by  the 
Turks.' 

The  river  Inachos,  the  streamless  bed  of  which  is  a  short  way  to 
the  north-east  of  Argos,  is  supplied  with  casual  and  transitory  floods 
only  after  hard  rains,  and  the  melting  of  the  snow  on  the  surround- 
ing mountains.     Its  source,  according  to  Strabo,*  was  on  Mount 
Lurkios,  near  Kunouria,  in  Arcadia;  and,  according  to  Pausanias,3 
on  Mount  Artemision.     Even  in  the  month  of  December,  when  I 
was  at  Argos,  there  was  not  a  drop  of  water  in  its  channel ;  and» 
like  the  Ismenos  and  the  Ilissos,  it  has  more  often  been  indebted 
for  the  gliding  softness  or  the  impetuous  rush  of  its  liquid  current 
to  the  fictions  of  poetry,  than  to  the  realities  of  existence.     It  was 
indeed,  at  best,  never  more  than  a  casual  torrent,  for  which  reason 
it  is  termed  ya.^ahguln'i  by  Strabo.     Its  present  name  is  Zeria/ which 
word  is  applicable  to  its  deserted  bed.     It  rises  about  ten  miles 
from  Argos,  at  a  place  called  Mushi,  in  the  way  to  Tripolitza  in 
Arcadia.     In  the  winter  it  sometimes  descends  from  the  mountains 
in  a  rolling  mass,  when  it  does  considerable  damage  to  the  town. 
Lucian5  observes  that  rivers  die  as  well  as  men  and  cities;  and  that 
the  Inachos  has  not  even  left  any  remains   to  commemorate  its 
vanished  vitality.     According  to  Plutarch,6  the  first  name  of  the 
Inachos  was  Karmanor,  which  it  changed  to  Haliakmon,  from  the 
appellation   of  the  Tirynthian  hero,  who  perished  in  its  stream. 
Inachos,  a  son  of  Oceanos,  next  drowned  himself  in  it,  and  gave  it 
the  record  of  his  name. 

Strabo7  vindicates  Argos  from  its  once  proverbial  imputation  of 
want  of  water,8  asserting  that  it  is  well  supplied,  and  mentioning 
some   fountains   within   the   city.     There   are   at   present   several 
ancient  and  modern  wells  in  Argos;   and   in  almost  any  part  of 
the   town  and  its  vicinity  water  is  obtained  without  digging  to  a 


'  Ibid.  '  B.  8.  p.  370.  '  B.  8.  c.  6.  4  From  £,?of,  dry. 

*  Im^ou  oyy  ovh  laipo;  tv  Af/Ei  ill  xtxlxtentslai.     Contemplantes.  fi  De  llumin, 

7  B.  8.  p.  310.  8  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  15.     Lucian's  Triton. 


224  SOURCE  OF  THE  ERASINOS. 

considerable  depth.  Pausanias1  observes  that  no  water  but  that  of 
Lerna  remains  in  this  part  of  the  country  during  the  summer  months. 
He  seems  to  have  forgotten  the  perennial  current  of  the  Erasinos, 
which  is  much  nearer  to  Argos  than  the  Lernaean  lake. 


TO  THE  LAKE  OF  LERNA. 

On  quitting  Argos  on  the  15th,  with  an  intention  of  visiting  the 
source  of  the  Erasinos  and  the  lake  of  Lerna,  we  left  the  Theatre 
and  the  Larissa  to  our  right,  passed  by  some  uninteresting  Ro- 
man traces,  and  crossed  two  rivulets  running  towards  the  Argolic 
gulf.  One  of  these  streams  was  probably  the  Phrixos ;  which,  ac- 
cording to  Pausanias,1  uniting  with  the  current  of  the  Erasinos, 
entered  the  sea  between  Temenion  and  Lerna,  forty  stadia  from 
Argos. 

In  fifty  minutes  from  Argos  we  reached  a  cave  in  the  rock,  which 
contains  a  church,  and  a  spring  of  clear  water,  called  Kephalari, 
which  bursts  from  the  rock  with  impetuosity.  This  is  the  Erasinos, 
or  Arsinos,  which,  according  to  Herodotus,3  Strabo,4  and  Pausanias,5 
has  its  original  source  at  the  lake  of  Stymphalos,  in  Arcadia.  After 
a  subterraneous  course  of  about  200  stadia,  it  issues  from  this  cavern,6 
which  is  in  Mount  Chaon.  Bacchus  and  Pan  here  received  the 
sacrifices  of  the  devout.  The  rock  has  been  cut ;  and  the  cave  was 
probably  a  Paneion,  or  Nymphaion.     Near  the  source  is  another 


1  Loc.  cit.  s  B.  2.  c.  36  &.  38.  '  B.  6.  c.  16. 

*  B.  6.  p.  27.-,.  b  B.  2.  c.  24. 

6  Redditur  Argolicis  ingens  Etasinus  in  arvis.     Ovid  Metam.  b.  15.  v.  276. 


SOURCE  OF  THE  ERASINOS.    LAKE  OF  LERNA.  225 

cave  with  two  entrances,  which  probably  possessed,  in  ancient 
times,  its  peculiar  objects  of  interest  or  adoration ;  but  which  is 
now  employed  for  the  manufacture  of  saltpetre.  When  Ave  entered 
at  the  cave  of  the  Erasinos,  we  found  that  it  was  the  festival  of  the 
Saint  to  whom  the  subterranean  church  is  dedicated.  Some  good 
women,  who  had  been  offering  up  their  devotions,  loaded  us  with 
boiled  pulse  and  dried  currants,  which  we  were  obliged  to  eat, 
that  we  might  not  seem  to  slight  their  well-meant,  hospitality,  though 
the  flavour  of  their  viands  was  not  of  a  very  captivating  kind.  In 
front  of  the  cave  is  a  tumulus,  that  was  opened  a  short  time  pre- 
vious to  our  arrival ;  and  in  which  some  small  columns  of  grey 
granite  were  found,  that  have  not  been  removed. 

In  our  way  to  Lerna  we  descried  some  villages  to  our  right  at  the 
foot  of  the  hills.  We  passed  through  some  plantations  of  rice,  which 
is  here  plentiful,  and  of  an  excellent  quality. 

In  fifty-five  minutes  from  the  cave  we  reached  the  lake  of  Lerna, 
a  small  marshy  pool,  overgrown  with  reeds.  As  the  stream  which 
issues  from  it  turns  some  mills,  it  has  taken  the  name  of  MvXot, 
It  discharges  itself  into  the  sea,  which  is  a  few  paces  from  it.  The 
Lernsean  marsh  is  formed  by  several  clear  and  copious  springs, 
which  rush  out  of  a  rock  at  the  foot  of  a  hill.  This  lake  is,  how- 
ever, so  diminutive,  and  so  much  concealed  by  reeds  and  other 
aquatic  plants,  that  it  might  easily  be  passed  without  attracting 
the  attention  of  the  traveller.  The  millers,  who  live  near  it,  assured 
us  it  had  no  bottom.  Pausanias1  asserts  that  the  lake  of  Alcj'on  is 
unfathomable,  and  that  Nero  endeavoured  in  vain  to  ascertain  its 
depth.  He  adds,  that  it  was  the  third  of  a  stadium  in  circuit ;  and 
that  its  banks  were  covered  with  reeds.  The  Lermean  and  Alcyonian 
pool  are  evidently  one  and  the  same:  Pausanias  calls  it  by  the  latter 
appellation. 

Apollodorus1  denominates  it  tegvrjg  sXo? :  he  also  mentions  the 
fountains  of  Lerna,  and  of  Amymone.     Strabo1  mentions  the  river 

'  B.  2.  c.  37.  *  B.  2.  '  B.  8.  p.  368.  371. 

VOL.  II.  G  G 


226  LAKE  OF  LERNA.     THE  HYDRA. 

and  lake  of  Lerna,  and  the  fountain  Amymone.  Virgil'  also  calls 
Lerna  a  river.  Pausanias  calls  Amymone  a  river,  and  mentions  the 
fount  of  Amphiaraus ;  he  also  speaks  of  the  rivers  Cheimarros, 
Phrixos,  and  Pontinos,  as  in  the  same  vicinity.  According  to 
Hyginus,1  the  "  fons  Amymonius"  was  afterwards  called  "  Ler- 
neeus."  Pausanias,  in  speaking  of  Lerna,  alludes  to  the  city  of  that 
name,  which  is  also  mentioned  by  Mela,  and  by  the  scholiast  of  Euri- 
pides.5 

It  is  not  difficult  to  conjecture  the  signification  of  the  second  labour 
of  Hercules  in  destroying  the  many  headed  hydra  which  infested  the 
Lernaean  plain.  Pausanias  seems  really  to  credit  the  existence  of 
such  a  monster,  but  ventures  to  doubt  the  number  of  its  heads. 
This  strange  mixture  of  credulity  and  scepticism  is  observable  in 
other  parts  of  that  author's  works. 

Simonides  and  Paloephatus4  give  it  fifty  heads;  Apollodorus5  and 
Hyginus6  nine;  Diodorns  Siculus,7  and  Ovid,  one  hundred;  Eu- 
ripides8 calls  it  "  the  innumerable  headed  dog,"  Tap  t&  pvgioK°ot,vov  toXv- 
<povov  kvvu.  Aegvot,$. 

I  have  observed  the  hydra  represented  in  various  forms  upon  the 
remains  of  ancient  sculpture,  but  never  with  more  than  nine  heads. 
There  is  a  bas-relief  in  the  Vatican,  on  which  it  is  portrayed  with 
seven. 9  On  a  bas-relief,  in  the  villa  Borghese,  it  is  represented  with 
one  human,  and  three  serpents  heads.10 

Apollodorus  pretends  that  the  hydra  used  to  enter  the  plain,  and 
ravage  the  county  and  the  flocks ;  and  it  still  continues  occasionally 
to  commit  similar  depredations  during  the  winter  months. 

The  fact  is,  the  lake  of  Lerna  is  the  hydra,  and  its  heads  are  the 
sources,  which  Hercules,  or  some  powerful  individual,  endeavoured 


'  JEneid,  12.  v.  SIS.  *  Fab.  169. 

1  Phoenis.  v.  127. — Asfvij  yap  itaXis  xa<  TTijyij  Iw  Apyavs.  4  De  incredibil.  5  B.  2. 

6  Tab.  30.  7  B.  4.  6Hercul.  fur.  v.  4-19. 

9  See  Spanbem.  de  usu  et  proest.  numism.  diss.  !■.  ,0  Visconti.  Mus.  Pio.  Clem.  vol.  4. 


LAKE  OF  LERNA.  227 

to  stop  up,  in  order  to  prevent  the  recurrence  of  an  inundation. 
But,  as  soon  as  one  spring  was  closed,  it  naturally  found  vent  in 
another  part ;  or,  according  to  the  emblematical  style  of  antiquity, 
as  soon  as  one  head  was  removed,  others  appeared  in  its  place.  The 
different  opinions  concerning  the  number  of  heads,  is  easily  accounted 
for,  the  springs  being  more  or  less  numerous,  according  to  the  season 
of  the  year,  and  the  quantity  of  water.  The  word  T^a  is  probably 
derived  from  Ytiug,  which  is  the  lake  Avith  its  numerous  springs  or 
heads.  These  are  the  ideas  which  occurred  to  me  upon  the  spot, 
and  which  I  find  had  long  before  been  those  of  Albricus.1 

Palsephatus  explains  this  fable  by  asserting  that  there  was  a  town 
named  Hydra,  whose  king,  Lernos,  made  war  against  Mycenae.  The 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  Lernaean  pool  was  very  celebrated  in  the 
mythological  fictions  of  antiquity.  For,  besides  the  story  of  Hydra, 
and  Amymone,  we  have  those  of  Pluto  and  Bacchus,2  who  both 
descended  to  the  infernal  regions  near  this  place.  We  are  also  in- 
formed by  ancient  mythographers,3  that  Amymone,  daughter  of 
Danaus,  who  was  employed  in  supplying  Argos  with  water,  was 
ravished  away  by  Neptune,  near  this  spot,  and  that  he  struck  a 
rock  near  which  she  stood  with  his  trident,  from  which  a  fountain, 
called  by  her  name,  Amymone,  immediately  issued.  In  this  story 
we  may  perhaps  trace  the  emblem  of  an  earthquake,4  which  caused 
an  irruption  of  the  sea,  with  the  appearance  of  a  fountain,  as  often 
happens  during  such  violent  concussions  of  the  earth. 

The  water  of  Lerna  was  of  such  reputed  sanctity,  that  it  was  used 
by  Minerva  and  Mercury  for  the  purification  of  the  Danaides, 
after  they  had  killed  their  husbands.  The  springs  issue  from  the 
foot  of  Mount  Pontinos,  an  insulated,  pointed  rock,  which  we 
were  fourteen  minutes  in  ascending,  with  the  hopes  of  discovering 


De  Deor.  Imagin.  in  Mythograpli.  latin.  Amsterdam,  1681  • 

*  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  36,  37.  '  Apollodor.  Hygin.  Ovid,  and  others. 

*  Neptune  was  supposed  to  be  the  cause  of  earthquakes ;  hence  he  was  termed  by  the  poets, 

Evoffixfiuiy,  Evotrtyccios,  &c. 

G  G  2 


228  MOUNT  PENTINOS. 

the  remains  of  the  temple  of  Minerva  of  Sais ;'  instead  of  which  we 
found  only  the  ruins  of  a  modern  castle,  without  one  relic  of  an- 
tiquity. Our  trouble  was,  however,  fully  compensated  by  the  ex- 
tensive view  which  the  hill  commands.  Towards2  the  north  is  the 
Larissa  of  Argos;  and,  beyond  it,  the  table  mountain,  near  Nernea; 
more  to  the  east,  are  descried  the  ruins  of  Mycenae,  Tiryns,  and 
Nauplia,  while  the  Argolic  gulf  is  immediately  below  the  eye. 

Pausanias  informs  us  that  Mount  Pontinos  had  the  peculiar  quality 
of  causing  all  the  rain,  by  which  its  surface  was  drenched,  to  dis- 
appear; but  this  has  in  it  nothing  of  the  marvellous,  as  he  seems  to 
infer,  as  it  is  composed  of  a  calcareous  rock,  full  of  deep  fissures, 
and  subterraneous  cavities.  The  falling  rain,  therefore,  after  being 
absorbed,  is  conducted  by  the  springs  which  are  at  the  base  of  the 
rock,  to  the  Lernaean  pool.  The  whole  of  this  hill  is  covered  with 
the  wild  sage,  the  salvia  pomif era,  bearing  bunches  of  yellow  flowers, 
and  a  green  berry,  about  the  size  of  a  small  cherry  ;  the  under  part 
of  the  leaves  is  covered  with  a  white  woolly  substance,  easily  detached 
by  the  wind,  and  which,  on  coming  in  contact  with  the  eyes,  causes 
a  violent  smarting  pain,  that  lasts  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
This  plant  is  common  in  rocky  places  in  Greece,  and  is  called 
AXytpcco-Ktu,  from  Ax?;<pa<r*©?,  the  ancient  name  for  sage.  It  enters  into 
the  materia  medica  of  the  modern  Greeks,  and  is  taken  as  tea,  and 
used  as  a  sudorific  in  feverish  cases. 

In  the  evening  we  returned  to  Argos. 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  MYCEN.E. 

On  the  8th  of  December  we  proceeded  across  the  plain,  to  the 
ruins  of  Mycence.     The  gate  of  Lucina,  so  called  from  a  temple  of 


'  Aitjvas  SafliJo/. — Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  36. 
The  Larissa  bears  N.  14.  E.     Flat  mountain  N.  17.  E.     Acropolis  of  Nauplia  East. 


RUINS  OF  MYCEN.E.  229 

that  goddess  in  its  vicinity,  was  on  that  side  of  Argos  which  faced 
Mycenae.1 

On  quitting  the  town  we  crossed  the  streamless  Inachos.  In 
twenty-six  minutes  the  road  passed  a  bridge  over  a  forsaken  water- 
course which  joins  the  Inachos.  We  went  near  a  khan,  and  in 
an  hour  and  twenty-three  minutes  from  Argos  reached  the  village 
of  Krabata,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  about  a  mile  below 
the  ruins  of  Mycenae. 

Pausanias2  mentions  on  or  near  the  road  from  Argos  to  Mycenae, 
first  the  altar  of  the  sun,  then  the  temple '  of  the  Mysian  Ceres,  the 
tomb  4  of  Thyestes,  and  the  heroic  monument !  of  Perseus. 

I  approached  the  Cyclopian  city  of  Perseus  with  a  greater  degree 
of  veneration  than  any  other  place  in  Greece  had  inspired.  Its  re- 
mote antiquity,  enveloped  in  the  deepest  recesses  of  recorded  time, 
and  its  present  extraordinary  remains,  combined  to  fill  my  mind 
with  a  sentiment  in  which  awe  was  mingled  with  admiration.  I 
was  not  so  forcibly  impressed  at  Athens,  at  Delphi,  at  Delos,  or  at 
Troy! 

With  my  thoughts  thus  wandering  back  to  the  earliest  ages  of  an- 
tiquity, and  engrossed  with  events  of  more  than  three  thousand 
years  past,  I  approached  the  royal  and  venerable  capital  of  Aga- 
memnon, avjri  fx,iv  ovv  q  ToXig  evtiuiftw  ev  roig  ugj/caoig  fcgovotg  ysvoftevfi,  xui  u-i- 
yotXovg  uvdgcig  iyov<ru.  zut  <rgct%£i$  a,%io\oyovg  STtlsXs<raf^si/ri,  roiuv]r;v  iyj.  Tt}> 
xotfouflgotyriv. 

The  first  ruin  that  fixed  my  attention  was  that  which  travellers 
have  generally  denominated  the  treasury  of  Atreus.7  Some  hun- 
dred paces  further  brought  me  to  a  magnificent  wall,  on  turning 

1  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  18.  "  Loc.  cit.  f  ispw.  *la<p6s. 

5  ijpcvov.  Mycenae  was  anciently  denominated  either  by  the  singular  or  the  plural  number, 
as  Thebes,  Plataea,  and  several  other  places,  of  which  Homer  and  Strabo  afford  frequent 
instances. 

6  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  11.  c.  65. 

7  I  have  denominated  this  edifice  the  treasury  of  Atreus,  in  order  to  avoid  controversy 
where  there  are  such  slight  materials  for  any  plausible  hypothesis.  Some  have  imagined 
that  it  is  the  tomb  of  Agamemnon,  and  others  the  heroum  of  Perseus. 


230  RUINS  OF  MYCENLE.     TREASURY  OF  ATREUS. 

round  the  angle  of  which,  the  Cyclopian  gate  of  the  lions  presented 
itself  before  me,  and  the  entrance  into  that  same  acropolis  through 
which  the  "  king  of  men"  passed  when  he  quitted  Mycenae  for  the 
conquest  of  Troy. 

The  treasury  of  Atreus,  though  only  slightly  mentioned  by  Pau- 
sanias,  perfectly  corresponds  with  his  more  detailed  description  of 
that  of  Minyas  at  Orchomenos. 

A  space  of  twenty  feet  in  width  between  two  walls  leads  to  the 
entrance,  which  is  nine  feet  and  a  half  wide  at  the  base,  and  seven 
feet  ten  inches  at  top,  and  about  nineteen  feet1  in  height,  and  leads 
by  a  passage  of  eighteen  feet  in  depth,  to  the  subterraneous  circular 
chamber,  which  is  in  the  form  of  a  Gothic  dome,  terminating  at 
top  in  a  point  or  key  stone.  Some  of  the  contiguous  blocks  have 
fallen  so  as  to  admit  a  picturesque  and  mysterious  ray  of  light. 

It  is  probable  that  Pausanias  did  not  understand  the  plan  upon 
which  these  edifices  were  constructed.  It  would  appear  from  his 
description  of  that  at  Orchomenos,  that  he  conceived  they  were 
built  upon  the  principle  of  the  arch:  his  words  are,  lov  fe  uvulofla  rut 
Xidcov  cpatriv  ugponuv  ru.v\t  zivai  oiy.odopyf/.uli.*  It  is  however  formed  by  ho- 
rizontal, not  by  radiated  layers,  which  advancing  over  each  other, 
and  having  had  their  lower  angle  cut  off,  gives  the  structure  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  Gothic  dome.  The  treasury  of  Atreus  was  not  of  such 
large  dimensions  as  that  of  Minyas.  The  latter  was  of  white  marble, 
and  that  of  Mycenre  is  composed  of  a  hard  and  beautiful  breccia, 
of  which  the  neighbouring  rocks  and  the  contiguous  three-topped 
Mount  Euboia  consist.  It  is  the  hardest  and  most  compact  breccia 
in  Greece,  and  resembles  the  rare  antique  marble  called  breccia  tra- 
cagnina  antica  which  is  sometimes  found  amongst  the  ruins  of  Rome. 
The  breccia  of  Mycense  is  compact  and  heavy  ;  the  grains  are  large, 
and  generally  angular;  their  most  usual  colour  is  black,  while  the 


Its  real  height  is  something  greater,  but  its  original  proportions  are  concealed  by  the 
accumulation  of  earth  at  its  entrance. 
'  B.  9.  c.  38. 


TREASURY  OF  ATREUS.  231 

matrix  of  the  rock  is  composed  of  various  degradations  of  yellow. 
The  present  height  of  the  treasury  of  Atreus  is  forty-nine  feet  from 
the  apex  to  the  ground,  which  is  raised  some  feet  above  its  original 
level.  Its  diameter  is  forty-eight  feet,  which,  lower  down,  must  be 
something  more.  The  blocks  are  all  parallelograms,  and  placed  in 
regular  layers,  thirty-four  ranges  being  at  present  uncovered.  They 
are  united  with  the  greatest  precision  without  the  aid  of  cement, 
and  the  stones  are  not  all  of  equal  dimensions ;  but  the  layers  are 
generally  about  two  feet  in  thickness,  though  they  have  the  ap- 
pearances of  diminishing  towards  the  vertex,  which  may  however  be 
the  effect  of  perspective,  as  we  had  no  means  of  measuring  higher 
than  ten  or  twelve  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ground. 

This  treasury  had  two  chambers.  A  door  leads  from  the  first  into 
the  second,  which  is  a  square  of  about  twenty-seven  feet,  and  about 
nineteen  in  height  in  its  present  state,  but  it  has  not  been  suf_ 
ciently  excavated  to  find  the  Avails,  which  are  still  obstructed  by 
earth.  The  present  height  of  this  door  is  only  nine  feet  and  a  half, 
and  the  breadth  at  the  base  four  feet  seven  inches,  being  four  inches 
less  at  top.  It  has  a  triangular  cavity  over  its  lintel  similar  to  that 
over  the  entrance  into  the  great  chamber,  and  to  that  over  the  gate 
of  the  lions.  The  outside  front  of  the  great  chamber,  which  is  the 
only  part  not  covered  with  earth,  faces  the  acropolis,  from  which  it 
is  only  a  few  hundred  paces  distant.  This  front  is  regularly  con- 
structed like  the  interior  of  the  same  edifice.  Over  the  lintel  of 
the  entrance  is  a  triangular  niche,  at  present  open  and  unadorned, 
but  which,  in  a  more  ancient  period,  was  probably  occupied  by 
some  appropriate  embellishment.  Its  height  is  twelve  feet,  and 
its  breadth  eight  feet  seven  inches.  Some  masses  of  rosso  antico, 
covered  with  spiral  ornaments,  and  a  columnar  pilaster,  and  its 
base,  are  seen  lying  amongst  the  ruins  near  the  gate,  which  may 
have  been  placed  as  a  sepulchral  stele  in  the  middle  of  the  tri- 
angular cavity,  and  the  sides  filled  with  other  ornamental  or  alle- 
gorical subjects. 


232 


TREASURY  OF  ATREUS. 


a 

- 


n 

— 
a 


The  pilaster  and  its  base  are  of  a  soft  green  stone,  singularly  en- 
riched with  spiral  and  zigzag  ornaments  of  an  Egyptian,  rather  than 
of  a  Grecian  character.  Indeed  the  whole  edifice  has  so  much  the 
appearance  of  Egyptian  origin,  that  it  was  very  probably  con- 
structed by  the  colony  of  the  Belides,  after  the  expulsion  of  the 
Iuachidae  from  the  Argolic  territory.  All  the  remains  at  Mycenae, 
even  the  sculptured  ornaments  which  are  scattered  about  the  ruins, 
have  an  Egyptian  character.  The  gate  of  the  lions  also  may  owe 
its  origin  to  the  same  people.  The  walls  alone  of  the  acropolis 
seem  to  have  been  elevated  by  another  race ;  but  of  this  more  will 
be  said  hereafter. 

It  would  appear  that  the  treasury  of  Atreus  had  been  ornamented 
with  some  interior  decoration,  as  a  great  many  long  nails  of  bronze 
are  found  fixed  in  the  stones,  even  up  to  the  summit  of  the  building. 


/  Ftrmardi    del 


PuHisH.-*  by   fL-.i^cH  i-  l€*m\  B.-nd  ,rtr*jt  JHj*  .  itoS. 


m  Tffiim   •tiseasiitie.y  ©if  atibietd^  at  MnreEEME. 


TREASURY  OF  ATREUS.  233 

About  one-third  of  the  nails  projects  from  the  stones;  and,  as 
they  have  large  heads,  it  appears  that  some  object  was  attached 
to  them,  which  travellers  have  conceived  were  laminae  of  bronze. 
They  could  not  however  have  supported  any  thing  of  great  weight. 

The  thickness  of  this  extraordinary  structure,  which  may  be  seen  at 
the  entrance,  is  eighteen  feet.    The  lintel  of  the  door  is  composed  of 
two  masses  of  stone,  the  largest  of  which  is  of  the  surprising  dimen- 
sions of  twenty-seven  feet  in  length,  seventeen  feet  in  breadth,  and 
three  feet  nine  inches  in  thickness,  the  specific  gravity  of  which 
must  be  about  one  hundred  and   thirty-three  tons.     No  masses' 
except  those  of  Egypt  and   Balbec,    can  be  compai'ed  with  this 
gigantic  stone,  which  is  of  the  same  material  as  the  rest  of  the 
building.     The  second  lintel  is  of  the  same  height,  and  probably  of 
the  same  length  as  the  other,  but  as  it  is  on  the  outer  part  of  the 
edifice,  its  extremities  are  not  visible,  but  are  covered  by  the  earth ; 
its  breadth  is  only  one  foot.     The  exterior  of  the  lintel  is  orna- 
mented with  two  parallel  mouldings,  which  are  also  carried  down  the 
jambs  of  the  door,  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  portal  of  the  temple 
of  Bacchus  at  Naxos.     Some  faint  traces  and  holes  are  discerned 
over  the  lintel,  to  which  ornaments  in  bronze  or  marble  were  once 
attached.     Other  holes  are  seen   upon  the  flat  wall,    still  higher 
above  the  door,  and  probably  the  whole  of  this  part  was  sumptu- 
ously decorated,  and  consequently  could  not  have  been  originally 
covered  with  the  earth,  though  the  other  parts  of  the  structure  were 
no  doubt  concealed  as  at  the  present  day,  exhibiting  the  appearance 
of  a  lofty  tumulus.     Indeed  it  is  more  than  probable  that  it  was  a 
sepulchre  as  well  as  a  treasury,  and  might  also  have  been  used  for 
religious  purposes.     It  is  also  probable  that  this  is  the  identical 
edifice  mentioned  by  Pausanias  under  the  appellation  of  the  trea- 
sury of  Atreus;  but  sixteen  centuries  ago,  that  traveller  seems  to 
have  been  as  much  bewildered  in  the  dark  labyrinth  of  Mycenaean 
antiquities  as  we  are  at  the  present  day.    All  these  subterraneous 
chambers  in  Greece,  Sicily,  and  Sardinia,  were  no  doubt  the  primi- 
tive cryptae  or  sepulchres  of  great  persons  in  the  most  remote  periods 

VOL.  II.  H  II 


234  TREASURY  OF  ATREUS. 

of  antiquity.  They  are  constructed  upon  the  principle  of  the 
Egyptian  pyramids,  to  which  they  have  a  considerable  approxi- 
mation. Houel1  mentions  similar  constructions  near  Macara  in 
Sicily,  and  there  are  several  of  them  in  Sardinia,  which  are  known 
by  the  name  of  Noragis.  This  appellation  was  perhaps  derived  from 
Norax,  the  son  of  Mercury  and  Erythaea,  who,  with  an  Iberian 
colony,  founded  the  town  of  Nora  in  that  island.* 

They  were  probably  treasuries  and  temples,  as  well  as  tombs.  A 
treasure  could  not  be  placed  in  a  more  inviolable  sanctuary  than  in 
a  sepulchre,  or  a  temple.  The  most  ancient  temples  were  originally 
the  repositories  of  the  dead  ;'  and  treasures  were  at  all  times  pre- 
served within  the  precincts  of  temples. 

The  treasury  at  Messene,  in  which  Philopoemen  was  immured,  was 
probably  of  a  similar  kind  with  those  at  Mycenae.  Livy4says,  "Ad- 
monent  deinde  quidam  esse  thesaurum  publicum  sub  terra,  saxo 
quadrato  septum  ;  eo  vinctus  demittitur,  etsaxum  ingens,  quo  operi- 
tur,  machina  superimpositum  est."  It  would  hence  appear  that  the 
entrance  was  closed  by  a  stone  that  was  moved  thither  on  purpose 
by  means  of  a  machine.  Plutarch5  says  it  was  subterraneous,  but 
gives  no  account  of  its  form. 

It  is  difficult  to  conjecture  in  what  manner  the  entrance  of  the 
treasury  of  Atreus  was  anciently  closed,  as  there  are  no  visible  indi- 
cations of  holes  for  the  bolts,  or  for  the  hinges ;  whereas  the  door 
of  the  inner  chamber  of  the  same  building  exhibits  holes,  in  which 
the  hinges  and  the  bolts  were  affixed.  The  great  chamber  may  pos- 
sibly have  been  always  open,  and  its  approach  prohibited  by  reve- 
rential awe,  and  religious  respect.  We  see,  in  Pausanias,6  an  account 
of  an  old  temple  in  the  vicinity  of  Mantineia,  that  was  constructed 
by  Trophonios  and  Agamedes,  the  entrance  of  which  was  not  closed 
with  bolts,  but  a  simple  cord  was  drawn  before  it,  which,  with  the 


Voyage  pictoresque  de  la  Sicile.         >  PausaD.  b.  10.  c.  17. 

'   See  Clemens  Alexand.  Cohortat.  ad  Gentes.  p.  39:  4  B.  SQ.  c.  5. 

5  Life  of  Philopoemen.  6  B.  8.  c.  10. 


WALLS  OF  MYCENjE.  235 

religious  reverence  attached  to  the  temple,  was  of  sufficient  force  to 
maintain  the  inviolability  of  its  entrance;  except  in  one  instance, 
when  Aipytos,  son  of  Hippothoos,  having  dared  to  pass  the  sacred 
limit,  was  in  consequence  immediately  struck  with  blindness,  and 
soon  after  died. 

The  citadel  of  Mycenae  is  never  mentioned  under  the  appellation 
of  acropolis,  by  ancient  authors.  It  is  frequently  called  Au^a,  by 
Sophocles,'  which  signifies  nothing  more  than  residence;  similar 
to  the  /3a^ov,2  and  8v[/aM^  and  other  poetical  denominations,  which 
are  intended  as  synonymous. 

This  silence  concerning  the  acropolis  of  Mycenae  has  induced 
some  learned  men,  who  have  not,  however,  been  upon  the  spot,  to 
imagine  that  the  city  was  contained  within  the  narrow  limits  of 
those  walls  which  constituted  the  acropolis  alone ;  the  actual  survey, 
however,  of  the  extreme  smallness  of  this  enclosure  will  immediately 
destroy  such  a  supposition.  The  single  palace  of  the  Atridse,  and  a 
temple  or  two,  allowing  them  only  moderate  proportions,  would 
occupy  the  whole  space,  without  leaving  any  room  for  the  inha- 
bitants, or  the  evgvuyvia.,  or  "  wide  streets,"  of  Homer,4  which  adorned 
the  wealthy  city  of  Mycenee,  with  its  " well-built" s  and  "heavenly 
walls;"6  nor  would  the  powerful  Argians  so  peremptorily  have  insisted 
upon  the  destruction  of  the  city,  and  its  inhabitants,  if  it  had  con- 
sisted solely  of  the  little  rock  on  which  its  acropolis  was  erected. 
The  walls  of  the  city  extended  considerably  beyond  the  subterraneous 
chambers7  towards  the  plain ;  and  they  may  still  be  traced  in  many 
places,  besides  some  well-built  foundations  of  other  edifices,  and 
many  heaps  of  small  stones  and  tiles,  the  remains  of  the  houses.  The 
walls  of  the  city  were,  perhaps,  destroyed  by  the  Argians,  and  the 
stones,  and  other  remains,  were  possibly  carried  across  the  plain  to 
the  capital,  where  such  materials  would  always  be  wanting :  the  walls 


Electra.  a  Euripid.  Here.  fur.  v.  94.5.  3  Id.  Iphig.  in  Aul.  v.  556. 

4  Iliad,  4.  v.  52.  s  Eux7i//.svoy  rilttosBpOy,  Homer,  Iliad,  2. 

6  Ovpavia.  lew  Sophoc.  Elect.  7  Imyaia.  tnuSou-wala..  Pausan. 

H  H  2 


236  WALLS  OF  MYCENJE.     TREASURIES. 

of  the  acropolis,  however,  were  evidently  not  demolished.  According 
to  Pausanias,'  who  probably  alludes  to  the  acropolis,  the  walls  of 
Mycenae  resisted  the  destroying  efforts  of  the  Argians  by  their  extra- 
ordinary solidity,  for  which  they  were  indebted  to  the  architectural 
skill  of  the  Cyclopians.  The  outer  enclosure,  or  walls  of  the  city, 
were  apparently  less  ancient  than  those  of  the  fortress,  and  seem 
not  to  have  been  either  so  strong,  or  of  such  irregular  construction. 

The  demolition  of  the  town  of  Tiryns  has  been  still  more  com- 
plete than  that  of  Mycenae  ;  as  scarcely  a  trace  of  any  thing  remains 
except  the  acropolis.  The  A&j^a  TleXomiw,*  and  the  Tirynthian 
acropolis,  were  probably  not  only  the  citadels  of  their  respective 
cities,  but  the  sacred  enclosures  and  revered  sanctuaries  of  some 
divinity  worshipped  with  equal  adoration  by  all  the  states  of  Argolis, 
and  were  accordingly  respected  to  a  certain  degree  by  the  Argians, 
who  contented  themselves  with  dismantling  the  walls,  while  they 
levelled  to  the  ground  the  outer  enclosure. 

It  is  evident  that  the  subterraneous  structures  of  Atreus  and  his 
sons,  and  the  tomb  of  Agamemnon,  and  of  those  who  were  slain 
with  him  by  iEgisthus,  as  well  as  the  fount  Perseia,  were  within 
the  town,  but  not  within  the  acropolis;  they  are,  says  Pausanias, 
Mvpctivsov  h  ev  rotg  tguxwig,  "  amongst  the  ruins  of  Mycenae."  iEgis- 
thus  and  Clytemnestra  were  interred  beyond  the  walls,  being  un- 
worthy of  having  their  sepulchres  within  the  city,  where  the  remains 
of  Agamemnon  were  deposited.  I  found  the  remains  of  three  cir- 
cular chambers,  or  treasuries,  which  are  entirely  dilapidated,  with 
the  exception  of  the  doors,  that  are  still  covered  with  their  lintels. 
These  structures  were  evidently  less  magnificent  than  the  treasury 
of  Atreus.  One  of  the  doors  is  seven  feet  ten  inches  in  breadth  at 
top,  and  the  thickness  of  the  wall  is  ten  feet ;  another  is  only  five 
feet  and  a  half,  and  its  lintel  eleven  feet  three  inches  in  length,  one 
foot  ten  inches  in  thickness,  and  seven  feet  eight  inches  in  breadth. 


B.  7.  c.  25.  '  Sophoc.  Elect. 


RUINS  OF  MYCEN.E.  237 

The  lintels  of  all  these  doors  are  composed  of  two  blocks,  of  which 
the  interior  is  the  broadest.     Pausanias '  mentions  five  tombs  at 
Mycenoe,  besides  the  subterraneous  treasuries  of  Atreus  and  his 
sons.     Amongst  the  ruins  are  some  other  heaps,  which  probably 
contain  sepulchral  chambers ;  and  there  is  no  place  in  Greece  where 
a  regular  and  extensive  plan  of  excavation  might  be  prosecuted  with 
more  probable  advantage,  or  where  remains  of  greater  interest  and 
a  higher  antiquity  might  be  brought  to  light.     Although  specimens 
of  singular  curiosity,  rather  than  of  great  beauty,  would  be  found, 
since  the  town  was  destroyed  before  the  arts  had  reached  their 
highest  degree  of  excellence,  yet  ceramic  vases  would  be  discovered 
in  great  quantity,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  numerous  fragments 
which  are  seen  scattered  on  all  sides  :  they  are  generally  of  a  coarse 
earth,  and  the  spiral  and  zigzag  ornament  which  is  sculptured  on  the 
marbles  near  the  treasury  of  Atreus,  is  observed  on  most  of  the  fictile 
fragments  found  amongst  the  ruins.     These  ornaments  are  generally 
painted  black  upon  a  yellow  ground.     No  coins  of  Mycenae  have 
ever  been  found,  which  might  lead  to  a  supposition  that  money 
was  not  struck  in  Greece  before  the  demolition  of  that  city  by  the 
Argians,  which  happened  in  the  first  year  of  the  seventy-eighth  Olym- 
piad, about  468  years  before  our  era ;  for  it  is  not  to  be  supposed 
that  the  regal  residence  of  the  Atridae  would  have  been  without  its 
mint,  had  money  been  commonly  current  in  those  days.    It  may  be 
asked  what  objects  of  value  were  kept  in  the  well-stored  treasuries 
of  the  wealthy  cities  of  Orchomenos  and  Mycenae,  if  money  was 
not  then  in  use  ?     There  is  no  doubt  that  the  valuable  metals  were 
known  long  prior  to  the  time  of  Homer.    The  shekels  of  gold  in  the 
time  of  Solomon2  were  not  in  money  but  in  weight.     Homer  men- 
tions talents  of  gold  ;  and  the  nhivdoi  of  rich  metals  which  were  offered 
by  Croesus  to  the  god  of  Delphi  were  probably  what  we  call  bars  or 
ingots ;  and  the  treasuries  were  stored  with  these,  though  not  in  the 
shape  of  money  :  they  also  contained  the  valuable  armour  of  their 

1  B.  2.  c.  16.  '  Book  of  Kings. 


238  GATE  OF  THE  LIONS. 

chiefs,  and  other  objects  wrought  in  precious  metals,  which  were  used 
in  the  service  of  the  gods,  and  exposed  to  view  only  on  certain  days. 
The  account  which  Pausanias  has  left  us  of  the  contents  of  various 
treasuries  at  Delphi,  and  other  -parts  of  Greece,  may  give  us  some 
idea  of  the  probable  contents  of  those  of  Orchomenos  and  Mycenae. 

The  Gate  of  the  Lions,  which  was  the  principal  entrance  into  the 
Mycenaean  acropolis,  still  remains  nearly  in  the  same  state  as  in  the 
second  century,  when  it  was  visited  by  Pausanias,  who  says  it  was 
supposed  to  have  been  made  by  the  Cyclopians. 

This  singular  relic  of  the  heroic  ages  has  been  so  fully  illustrated 
by  former  travellers,1  that  little  remains  to  be  added  on  the  subject, 
except  some  general  observations  which  may  be  necessary  for  the 
purpose  of  connecting  the  links  of  my  narrative. 

The  plan  of  the  gate  closely  resembles  the  approach  to  the  trea- 
sury of  Atreus.  In  each,  two  parallel  walls,  forming  a  passage,  lead 
to  the  portals,  over  each  of  which  is  a  triangular  niche  in  a  wall, 
composed  of  parallelogram  blocks,  each  door  diminishing  in  breadth 
upwards.  Were  not  the  gate  of  the  lions  evidently  the  entrance  to 
the  acropolis,  it  might  be  mistaken  for  the  remains  of  a  treasury ; 
and,  from  the  complete  similarity  it  bears  to  the  front  of  those 
structures,  there  is  every  reason  to  conclude  that  it  was  erected  at 
the  same  period.  The  gate  of  the  lions,  which  faces  the  north-west, 
is  nearly  concealed  under  an  accumulation  of  earth  and  ruins :  its 
height,  therefore,  cannot  be  exactly  ascertained,  but  it  was  probably 
not  less  than  seventeen  feet :  its  breadth  at  top  is  nine  feet  and  a 
half.  The  lintel  is  fifteen  feet  and  a  half  in  length,  six  feet  eight 
inches  in  breadth,  and  four  feet  in  height.  The  stone,  on  which 
are  the  sculptured  lions,  is  eleven  feet  broad  at  the  base,  and  nine 
in  height :  its  general  thickness  is  two  feet :  it  is  of  a  triangular 
form,  filling  the  niche  which  was  made  for  its  reception.  The  street, 
or  approach  to  the  gate,  is  thirty  feet  and  a  half  in  breadth.  The 
construction  of  the  lateral  walls  is  nearly  regular,  differing  from  the 


Dr.  Clarke  and  Sir  William  Gell. 


GATE  OF  THE  LIONS.  239 

walls  which  constitute  the  peribolos  of  the  acropolis,  which  are  irre- 
gular polygons.  They  are  of  the  hard  breccia,  which  was  excavated 
near  the  spot ;  but  the  block  of  the  lions  is  of  the  same  green  marble 
as  the  columnar  pilaster  which  is  near  the  treasury  of  Atreus,  and 
which  resembles,  in  its  appearance,  the  green  basalt  of  Egypt.  This 
curious  piece  of  sculpture,  which  is  probably  the  most  ancient  in 
Greece,  represents,  in  half  relief,  a  column  between  two  Egyptian 
lions,  their  hinder  feet  resting  on  the  lower  part  of  the  block,  just 
over  the  lintel  of  the  gate,  the  front  feet  placed  upon  a  basement 
which  is  prolonged  from  the  pedestal  of  the  column,  which,  increas- 
ing in  diameter  upwards,  is  directly  contrary  to  the  usual  form  of 
columns.  The  pedestal  of  the  column,  which  is  composed  of  three 
annulets  upon  a  plinth,  rests  upon  a  basement,  which  is  composed 
of  two  plinths  and  a  scotia  between  them,  in  the  middle  of  which  is 
a  circular  cavity  exactly  under  the  column.  The  two  extremities  of 
the  scotia  terminate  with  semicircular  indentations.  The  capital  of 
the  column  is  composed  of  three  annulets,  increasing  in  thickness 
and  diameter  upwards :  these  are  surmounted  with  the  Doric 
abacus,  above  which  are  four  circular  objects,  which  have  been 
denominated  balls;  but,  as  the  front  of  these  circles  is  flat,  that 
term  is  misapplied,  and  the  theories  drawn  from  the  supposition  of 
their  globular  form  require  certain  modifications.  The  four  circles 
are  surmounted  by  an  abacus,  upon  which  there  must  have  been 
anciently  some  object  of  a  triangular  form  to  fill  the  upper  part  of 
the  niche :  this  may  have  been  a  flame.  The  column  has  been  con- 
jectured to  allude  to  the  solar  worship  of  the  Persians,  as  Apollo 
and  the  sun  were  represented  under  a  columnar  form.  The  column 
was  also  the  symbol  of  fire;  and  perhaps,  in  the  present  case,  is 
intended  to  represent  a  Pyratheion,1  or  fire-altar,  of  which  the  lions 

1  Strabo,  b.  15.  p.  733.  Fire,  self- kindled,  was  deemed  an  auspicious  omen  by  the 
ancients.  According  to  Pliny,  Amphiaraus  was  the  first  who  practised  ignispicia,  or 
divination  by  fire,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  7.  c.  56.  According  to  Herodotus,  when  Cleomenes,  King 
of  Sparta,  had  taken  the  temple  of  Juno,  near  Mycenae,  a  flame  of  fire  issued  on  a  sudden 
from  the  statue,  b.  6.  c.  82. 


240  GATE  OF  THE  LIONS. 

seem  to  be  the  guardians.     The  lion  was  also  the  liquid  element  in 
the  hieroglyphical  or  sacred  language  of  Egypt ;  and  the  triangular 
form  of  the  whole  block,  and  the  niche,  may  perhaps  be  an  allusion 
to  the  pvdgog,  or  conic  emblem  of  the  sun.    This  species  of  adoration 
was  possibly  introduced  into  Argolis  by  the  early  Egyptian  colo- 
nies ;  and  even  the  sculptured  stone  itself  may  have  been  brought 
from  the  country  of  the  Nile,  as   the  auspicious  palladium  and 
tutelary  preservative  of  the  recent  emigration.    The  lions  are  sculp- 
tured in  the  Egyptian  style,   and  resemble  those  which  are  de- 
picted on  the  most  ancient  ceramic  vases  found  in  Greece.     Their 
tails  are  not  broad  and  bushy,  but  narrow,  and  resembling  those 
which  are  seen  in  the  most  ancient  sculpture  of  Egypt,  Greece,  and 
Etruria.     One  of  the  lions  which  is  before  the  arsenal  at  Venice, 
and  which  was  brought  from  Athens,  and  another  which  still  re- 
mains near  Cape  Zoster  in  Attica,  and  those  which  are  represented 
on  the  Perugian  bronzes,  are  of  the  same  form.     As  the  heads  of 
the  lions  have  been  destroyed,  it  is  impossible  to  ascertain  in  what 
direction  they  were  turned.     The  figure  of  the  lion  was  an  emblem 
of  force  and  courage,  and  it  was  frequently  placed  upon  sepulchres ; 
particularly  where  any  battle  had  taken  place,  as  at  the  pass  of 
Thermopylae,    and   on  the  tomb  of  the  Thebans  in  the  plain  of 
Chaeroneia. ' 

A  mass*  of  green  marble  was  found  by  the  excavators  of  the  Earl 
of  Elgin  near  the  treasury  of  Atreus.  It  is  enriched  with  the  spiral 
maeander  and  some  circular  ornaments  similar  to  those  over  the 
column  of  the  gate  of  the  lions.  The  spiral  ornament  is  supposed 
to  be  symbolic  of  water ;  the  pointed  or  zigzag  ornament,  which 
accompanies  it  on  the  pilaster  of  the  treasury  of  Atreus,  is  probably 
emblematical  of  fire;  and  thus  the  two  elements  are  united,  as  they 
also  appear  to  be  upon  the  sculptured  marble  over  the  portal  of  the 
acropolis. 

The  back  part  of  the  lion  gate  is  highly  interesting,  inasmuch  as 


1  Pausan.  b.  9.  c  39. 
8  It  is  in  the  British  Museum.     See  the  annexed  plate. 


GATE  OF  THE  LIONS.— ACROPOLIS.  241 

it  exhibits  two  styles  of  construction  differing  totally  from  each 
other.  That  side  which  is  towards  the  plain  of  Argos  is  of  the 
rough  Cyclopian  masonry,  while  the  other  side  is  regularly  con- 
structed, like  the  front  of  the  gate  and  the  two  lateral  walls  which 
diverge  from  it.  It  would  appear  that  the  gate  had  been  made  some 
time  after  the  original  Cyclopian  structure ;  but  I  hazard  this  only  as 
a  probable  conjecture,  without  presuming  to  decide  whether  the  re- 
gular, as  well  as  the  irregular  or  polygonal  construction,  were  not 
sometimes  employed  at  the  same  period.  There  are  indeed  reasons 
for  believing  that  while  the  walls  of  fortresses  and  strong  places 
were  composed  of  Cyclopian  masonry,  the  temples,  sepulchres,  and 
sacred  edifices,  were  formed  of  a  more  regular  construction  :  as  the 
former  were  principally  adapted  to  resist  the  impulse  of  warlike 
engines,  while  the  sanctuaries  of  the  gods,  and  the  repositories  of 
the  dead,  were  regarded  even  by  enemies  with  reverential  awe. 

A  magnificent  wall,  composed  of  irregular  polygons,  closeby 
united  and  carefully  smoothed,  supports  the  terrace  on  which  the 
gate  of  the  lions  is  situated;  this  wall  faces  the  treasury  of  Atreus. 

The  acropolis  of  Mycenae  is  a  long  irregular  triangle,  standing 
nearly  east  and  west.  The  walls  follow  the  sinuosities  of  the  rock, 
and  are  mostly  composed  of  the  second  style  of  well  joined  poly- 
gons, although  the  rough  construction  is  occasionally  seen.  It  is 
not  fortified  with  towers.  On  the  northern  side  is  a  small  gate,  Avith 
its  lintel  still  entire.  The  structure  is  so  disposed  that  those  who 
entered  it  would  have  their  left  arm,  which  was  guarded  by  the 
shield,  on  the  side  of  the  acropolis,  which  is  a  deviation  from  the 
common  rule.  The  grooves  for  the  bolts  in  the  jambs  of  the  door 
are  square,  and  of  large  dimensions. 

Not  far  from  this,  towards  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  acropolis, 
is  another  gate  of  a  pointed  form,  almost  concealed  by  stones  and 
earth,  by  the  removal  of  which  I  ascertained  its  shape.  It  fully 
merits  the  trouble  of  an  excavation.  The  traces  within  the  acropolis 
are  few  and  imperfect;  there  is  a  circular  chamber,  excavated  in 
the  rock,  widening  towards  the  bottom,  and  of  the  same  form  as  the 

VOL.   II.  II 


242  RUINS  OF  MYCEN.E. 

treasury  of  Atreus.  It  was  probably  a  cistern.  According  to  Plutarch,' 
the  first  name  of  the  hill  on  which  Mycenae  stands,  was  Argion. 

A  deep  rocky  glen  separates  the  northern  side  of  the  acropolis 
from  a  neighbouring  hill  \  on  all  the  other  sides  it  is  more  or  less 
steep,  but  particularly  so  towards  the  three-topped  Euboia.  In 
a  rocky  ravine,  which  divides  the  acropolis  from  this  moun- 
tain, there  is  the  bed  of  a  torrent  at  present  dry,  but  it  is 
evident  that  the  stream,  which  rises  at  the  Perseia,  or  fount  of 
Perseus,  ran  through  it  to  the  plain.  This  stream  is  at  present  con- 
veyed in  a  small  open  aqueduct,  of  modern  construction,  over  the 
treasury  of  Atreus  to  the  subjacent  village  of  Kabrata,  and  from 
thence  to  the  khan  at  the  beginning  of  the  plain.  There  was  an- 
ciently a  bridge  over  the  ravine ;  one  of  the  side  walls  still  remains, 
consisting  in  well  joined  polygons.  The  fount  of  Perseus  rises  a  few 
hundred  yards  to  the  north-east  of  the  acropolis,  and,  immediately 
after  issuing  from  the  rock,  forms  a  small  clear  stream  of  excellent 
water,  with  which  Mycenae  was  anciently  supplied. 

After  the  return  of  the  Heraclidse  into  the  Peloponnesos,  about 
eighty  years  after  the  Trojan  war,  Mycenae  began  to  decline  in  power 
and  population.2  It  must  have  been  considerably  reduced  before 
the  Persian  invasion,  since  it  could  not  equip  more  than  eighty  men, 
as  its  contingent  at  Thermopylae;3  and  afterwards,  in  conjunction 
with  the  city  of  Tiryns,  it  furnished  only  four  hundred  troops  at 
the  battle  of  Plataea. 4 

It  is  singular  that  Strabo,s  who  was  at  Corinth,  within  a  very  few 
miles  of  Mycenae,  should  have  been  ignorant  of  the  existence  of  its 
ruins ;  so  much  so,  that  he  emphatically  says  that  not  a  vestige  of 
that  city  was  left,  "  axfiz  vvv  p,r$  tyvog  ivgurswrOou  rm  Muztivcum  voXiui." 
In  the  same  manner  he  leaves  hardly  a  trace  of  several  cities  in 
Greece  which  exhibit  considerable  remains  even  at  this  day.  Pau- 
sanias,  who  wrote  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  after  Strabo,  describes 

1  De  Flumin.  '  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  372.  s  Herodot.  b.  7.  p.  202. 

1  Id.  b.  9.  c.  28.  5  Loc.  pit, 


CYCLOPIAN  WALLS  OF  MYCEN.E  243 

edifices  which  may  still  be  seen.  Diodorus  Siculus1  says,  that  the 
Argians  destroyed  Mycenae,  rag  MvK?ivag  xalea-Ka-^av,  and  adds,  that  it 
remained  deserted  to  his  time.  Diodorus,  in  speaking  of  the  de- 
struction of  cities,  generally  uses  the  word  Kalnrxa-^av,  which  sup- 
poses a  complete  razing ;  many  of  the  cities,  however,  which  he  thus 
destroys,  still  exhibit  considerable  ruins,  built  long  prior  to  his  time. 
Livy  is  the  destroyer  of  Italian  cities,  as  Diodorus  and  Strabo  are 
of  those  of  Greece ;  but  many  of  those  which  he  represented  as  "  sine 
vestigiis,"  still  retain  their  walls,  gates,  and  towers,  in  a  state  of  high 
preservation. 

The  Cyclopian  walls  of  Mycenae  are  mentioned  by  several  ancient 
authors ;  but,  Strabo'  justly  observes  that  the  tragic  poets  have  made 
some  confusion  concerning  Argos  and  Mycenae,  substituting  one 
place  for  the  other,  as  in  the  Iphigenia,  and  the  Orestes.  Euripides 
has  the  following  allusions  to  the  Cyclopian  walls  of  Mycenae: 
Kvx.Xam)v  nig  ®v[JUZ>Mg% — Ex  M.v/.r\vag  hi  rag  Kvx,XavtagA — iro'hi<rp,a  Titgcriug, 
KvkXuttm  kovov  yi^ow* KuxXamov  (Badga.        He  calls  its    walls    KvaXwrsia 

Tovgtt.vux.leiffl,7  and  terms  Argolis  the  land  of  the  Cyclopians;  la^iiju 
tit  yaKvzX&>micc.s  Seneca,9  Hesychius,10  Nonnus, "  and  the  scholiast 
of  Euripides,'1  also  notice  the  Cyclopian  walls  of  Mycenae:  the 
words  of  Seneca  are 

majus  mihi 


And  again, 


Bellum  Mycenis  restat,  ut  Cyclopea 
Eversa  manibus  saxa  nostris  concidant. 

cerno  Cyclopum  sacras 

Turres,  labore  majus  humano  decus  ! 


The  only  architectural  fragment  which  I  observed  at  Mycenae 
belonging  to  a  Grecian  order,  was  the  half  of  a  triglyph,  in  a  soft, 


'  E.  11.  c.  65.  'B.  8.  p.  3T7.  '  Iphig.  in  Aul.  v.  152.  «  Id.  v.  9.65. 

5Id.v.  1500.         6  Here.  fur.  v.  944.         '  Elect,  v.  1 158.         8  Orest.  v.  963. 
3  Here.  fur.  act.  4.  v.  996.  andThyestes,  act.  3.  v.  407. 

10  EirnSri  KuxXuirss  el e t%t <r avlx(  Muxvjvay — Lex.  in  v.  KvuXwituiv.    Vol.2,  p.  3T2. 
"  2l£fifia7(  7e»%iO£v7(  irsfi^WflsKra  Muxijvij;  KukKuikwv  KOLvwetrtri. — B.  41. 
"In  Orest.  v.  963,  &c. 

I  i  2 


244  RUINS  ON  THE  WAY  TO  TIRYNS. 

yellow  stone,  which  measured  ten  inches  in  breadth.  The  other 
half  of  the  triglyph  was  upon  a  separate  stone;  and  the  whole  mea- 
sured twenty  inches  in  breadth.  This  fragment  is  in  a  small  church, 
not  far  from  the  treasury  of  Atreus. 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  TIRYNS  AND  NAUPLIA. 


After  remaining  three  days  at  this  most  interesting  place,  we 
mounted  our  horses  on  the  11th,  with  the  intention  of  visiting  the 
rest  of  Argolis.  Having  descended  from  Krabata  to  the  plain,  we 
observed  some  ancient  traces  near  the  foot  of  the  hills,  twenty 
minutes  from  the  village.  Half  an  hour  more  brought  us  to  some 
other  similar  remains,  a  few  hundred  paces  from  which  is  a  church, 
constructed  with  the  ruins  of  a  temple,  where  we  observed  two 
Doric  columns  of  stone,  of  small  proportions,  and  divided  into 
fifteen  fiutings.  A  capital,  of  the  same  order,  but  of  an  unusual 
form,  serves  as  an  altar.  Here  are  also  some  antejixa  of  terra  cotta, 
adorned  with  painted  foliage  and  maeanders.  Pausanias,  in  visiting 
Argolis,  went  from  Corinth  through  Kleonaiand  Nemea  to  Mycenae; 
from  thence  to  Argos,  and  he  then  describes  the  way  to  Epidauros, 
passing  by  Tiryns.  But,  it  seems,  he  did  not  travel  on  the  road 
from  Mycenae  to  Tiryns,  which  would  lead  to  a  supposition  that 
there  was  not  much  in  that  direction  to  attract  his  attention.  It  is 
evident,  however,  from  the  remains  which  are  still  seen,  that  this 
road  abounded  with  objects  of  curiosity  and  interest.  A  short 
distance  from  the  last  mentioned  church,  is  another,  which  has  also 
been  constructed  with  the  fragments  of  an  ancient  edifice.  Several 
large  blocks  of  stone  are  scattered  about,  and  the  frustum  of  a  Doric 


RUINS  ON  THE  WAY  TO  TIRYNS.  245 

column  is  seen  containing  sixteen  flutings.  Extensive  foundations 
are  observed  in  the  vicinity.  Here  is  also  an  ancient  well,  and 
two  oblong  mounds  of  earth,  which  merit  an  excavation ;  and  who- 
ever is  fortunate  enough  to  undertake  it  will  probably  be  rewarded 
by  some  interesting  discoveries.  Seven  minutes  from  this  place  we 
passed  through  a  village  called  Phonika,  where  there  are  some  large 
blocks  of  stone,  and  some  Doric  frusta1  near  an  ancient  well.  The 
word  Phonika  signifies  slaughter,  and  may  be  traditional.  Pau- 
sanias,2  in  his  way  from  Argos  toEpidauros,  before  he  reaches  Tiryns, 
passes  by  an  edifice  of  a  pyramidal  form,  which  contained  the  shields 
of  those  who  perished  in  a  battle  which  was  fought  on  that  spot, 
between  Proetos  and  Acrisius.  It  could  not  have  been  far  from  this 
spot,  and  the  name  of  Phonika,  which  is  given  to  the  village,  may 
possibly  be  commemorative  of  that  event. 

In  eighteen  minutes  from  Phonika,  we  came  to  a  village  called 
Aniphi,  where  there  are  a  few  scattered  olive-trees.  The  whole 
plain  is  perfectly  flat,  and  almost  all  in  a  state  of  cultivation,  which 
furnishes  subsistence  to  the  populous  towns  of  Argos  and  Nauplia, 
as  well  as  to  many  villages.  The  countrymen  were,  at  this  time, 
ploughing  and  sowing ;  and  the  rich  appearance  of  the  soil  gave  a 
presage  of  an  abundant  harvest.  There  are  few  trees  in  the  plain, 
except  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  behind  the  ruins  of  Tiryns,  where 
there  is  a  thick  and  extensive  grove  of  olives. 

In  ten  minutes  from  Aniphi,  we  passed  through  the  village  of  Pla- 
tanita,  where  there  is  a  ruined  church  with  some  large  well-hewn 
blocks  of  stone,  and  a  curious  little  Doric  capital  of  a  singular  form. 
In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  more  we  came  to  some  vestiges  of  antiquity, 
and  saw  a  village  to  the  left,  called  Mebaka.  We  passed  over  some 
other  foundations,  and  remarked  the  frustum  of  a  plain  column. 
On  the  left  hand  the  villages  of  Kushi  and  Kofina  were  visible, 
situated  at  the  base  of  two  pointed  hills,  which  are  distinguished 


1  Four  feet  in  diameter.  *  B.  2.  c.  25. 


L246  NAUPLIA. 

from  Argos.  The  summit  of  each  is  crowned  with  a  church,  which 
I  recommend  to  the  examination  of  future  travellers,  as  they  are 
probably  built  with  the  remains  of  some  more  ancient  edifices.  In- 
deed, the  whole  way  between  Mycenae  and  Ti^ns  seems  to  have 
been  singularly  adorned. 

We  arrived  at  the  ruins  of  Tiryns  in  two  hours  and  a  half  from 
Krabata.  We  remained  here  only  a  few  minutes,  wishing  to  reach 
Nauplia1  before  sun-set,  at  which  time  the  gates  of  the  town  are 
closed.  In  forty  minutes,  we  arrived  at  a  khan,  situated  about 
half  a  mile  from  Nauplia ;  but,  as  we  were  too  late  to  enter  the 
gates,  we  passed  the  night  at  the  khan,  where  we  were  tormented 
with  innumerable  gnats,  as  well  as  other  insects.  The  next  morning 
we  proceeded  to  the  town ;  and  observed  the  lion  of  Saint  Mark, 
and  the  Venetian  arms  over  the  gate,  which  the  folly  or  the  wis- 
dom of  the  Turks,  has  left  in  many  strong  places  which  they  con- 
quered from  that  republic,  and  which  are  conspicuous  trophies  of 
their  victories. 

On  entering  Nauplia,  we  had  on  our  left  hand  the  grand  and 
lofty  rock  Palamidi,  which  rises  precipitously,  and  is  crowned  with 
a  strong  fortress,  some  houses  for  the  garrison,  and  one  mosque. 
The  ascent  to  the  fort  is  by  a  covered  passage  of  five  hundred  steps, 
which  are  cut  in  the  rock.  It  is  one  of  the  strongest  positions  in 
Greece,  is  guarded  with  jealous  vigilance,  and  is  equally  inaccessible 
to  strangers  as  the  Acrocorinthos.  The  name  of  Palamidi,  which  the 
rock  at  present  bears,  is  probably  derived  from  Palamedes,  the  son 
of  Nauplios ;  which  name  it  perhaps  bore  in  ancient  times,  although 
it  is  not  mentioned  by  Strabo,  or  Pausanias.  Nauplia  is  supposed 
to  contain  about  four  thousand  inhabitants,  consisting  of  a  mixed 
population  of  Greeks,  Jews,  and  Turks ;  but  the  majority  are  Turks, 
who  have  five  mosques,  besides  that  which  is  in  the  fortress.     There 


1  This  place  is  known  to  the  Greeks  by  its  ancient  name,  although  it  is  called  Napoli  di 
Romania,  and  Anapli,  by  the  Italians. 


NAUPLIA.  247 

are  also  several  tekkies  without  minarets,  some  of  which  were 
originally  Christian  churches. 

Corn,  cotton,  wool,  oil,  and  rice,  constitute  the  principal  articles 
of  exportation.  The  bazar  seems  better  stocked  than  any  other  in 
Greece.  The  maritime  part  of  the  plain  of  Argos  belongs  to  Nau- 
plia,  besides  the  country  towards  Epidauros,  comprising  the  whole 
kingdom  of  Prcetos.1  Malaria  fevers  rage  here  in  the  autumnal 
season ;  and  the  town  would  probably  have  been  nearly  abandoned 
for  the  more  salubrious  locality  of  Argos,  were  it  not  for  the  advan- 
tages of  its  maritime  situation,  and  the  excellence  of  its  port.  Within 
the  port  there  is  a  small  island,  on  which  is  a  fortress  and  a  prison. 

Nauplia  was  uninhabited  in  the  second  century."  Some  remains 
of  the  walls  are,  however,  still  seen ;  and  their  high  antiquity  is 
attested  by  the  polygonal  style  in  which  they  are  constructed. 
Pausanias,  indeed,  asserts  that  they  were  erected  by  Nauplios,  son 
of  Neptune  and  Amymone.  The  site  of  the  temple3  of  Neptune  is 
not  known;  but  the  fountain  Kanathos,  though  it  still  exhibits  a 
copious  flow  of  water,  has  lost  its  pristine  virtues,  and  is  no  longer 
celebrated  for  the  same  wonder-working  powers,  for  which  it  was 
frequented  by  the  ladies  of  antiquity ;  and  particularly  by  Juno, 
who  is  said  annually  to  have  recovered  her  virginity  by  bathing  in  + 
the  purifying  stream. 

I  observed  two  inscriptions  in  the  town ;  but  one  of  them  was  in 
the  most  frequented  street,  and  an  attempt  to  copy  it  Avould  have 
been  attended  with  insult  from  the  Turks,  who  are  more  morose  and 
insolent  to  strangers  in  this  town,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the 
Morea. 

The  brevity  of  the  other  inscription,  and  the  retired  situation  in 
which  it  is  placed,  enabled  me  to  copy  it  without  molestation.  It  is 
cut  upon  a  marble  pedestal,  which  was  probably  occupied  by  a 
statue.     The  inscription  records  its  having  been  "  offered  by  the 


1  See  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  16.         "  Pausan.        3  upov.     Pausan.        4  Pausan.  b.  2.c.  38. 


248  RUINS  OF  TIRYNS. 

council  and  the  people  to  Phanaktes  priest  of  Caesar,  on  account  of 
his  virtue." 

H  BOTAHKAIOAHMOSfANAKTHN 

IEPEATEN0MEN0NKAI2AP02APETH2 

ENEKEN 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  TIRYNS. 

On  the  13th,  we  visited  the  ruins  of  Tiryns, '  where  we  passed 
the  whole  day.  This  spot  is  at  present  named  Palaia  Nauplia. 
We  arrived  there  in  forty  minutes.  The  accounts  which  the  an- 
cients have  left  us  of  this  extraordinary  place  are  comprised  in  a 
few  words.  According  to  Eustathius,'  it  was  called  ln^ioso-cra.  by 
Homer,  because  its  walls  were  built  by  the  Cyclopians.  Hesiod5  calls 
it  ivxj^ivov  ielohn()go».  Apollodorus4  affirms  that  it  belonged  to  Prce- 
tos,s  for  whom  it  was  fortified  by  the  Cyclopians.  This  circumstance 
is  mentioned  by  Strabo.6  But  the  account  which  is  given  of  it  by 
Pausanias,7  though  short,  is  comprehensive  and  interesting.  He 
says  that  "  the  walls  were  constructed  by  the  Cyclopians,  and 
composed  of  rough  stones,8  the  smallest  of  which  was  so  large, 
that  it  could  not  be  drawn  by  a  pair  of  mules.  The  spaces  formed  in 
the  walls  by  the  irregularities  of  these  masses  were  formerly  filled  up 
with  smaller  stones,  which  added  more  harmony  to  the  structure." 

1  It  is  called  TipvvQa.  by  Homer  and  Scylax.  The  territory  was  named  Tirynthia.  Herodot. 
b.  6.  c. 

*  In  Homer.  Iliad,  2.  v.  b59.         3  Shield  of  Hercules,  v.  81.         *  B.  2. 
*  Proetos  is  supposed  to  have  lived  about  1379  years  B.  C.  6  B.  8.  p.  373. 

T  B.  2.  c.  25.  8  apyoov  \Auiv. 


RUINS  OF  TIRYNS.  249 

We  have  in  these  lines  a  complete  description  of  the  earliest  style 
of  Cyclopian  masonry.  The  walls  of  Tiryns  probably  remain  at 
this  day  nearly  in  the  same  state  in  which  they  were  seen  by  Pau- 
sanias  in  the  second  century,  as  the  town  was  deserted  before  his 
time,  and  was  probably  never  since  inhabited.  He '  compares  the 
walls  for  their  wonderful  strength  and  dimensions,  to  the  treasury  of 
Minyas  and  the  pyramids  of  Egypt.  It  took  its  name  from  a  son 
of  Argos,*  and  brother  of  Amphitryon.*  Its  first  name,  according 
to  Eustathius,*  was  Haliis  or  Haleis,  which  Stephanus s  asserts  that 
it  borrowed  from  some  fishermen  of  Hermione,  who  settled  on  the 
spot.  Pausanias  mentions  the  thalamoi  of  the  daughters  of  Proetos 
between  Tiryns  and  the  sea.  These  were  probably  subterraneous 
structures  similar  to  the  treasury  of  Atreus,  but  no  remains  of  them 
are  at  present  to  be  seen. 

Strabo 6  mentions  an  acropolis  named  Avxipva,  twelve  stadia  from 
Nauplia,  but  does  not  clearly  express  that  he  alludes  to  the  citadel 
of  Tiryns,  which  might  however  have  a  different  appellation  from 
the  city,  as  the  Larissa  of  Argos,  the  Kadmeia  of  Thebes,  and  the 
Ithome  of  Messene.  There  is  however  every  probability  that  the 
Tirynthian  acropolis  is  alluded  to  under  the  appellation  of  Licymna. 
as  we  have  the  testimony  of  Pindar7  that  Licymnios,  the  brother  of 
Alcmena,  was  accidentally  killed  at  Tiryns  by  the  hands  of  TJepo- 
lemos,  son  of  Hercules  and  Astyochia,  and  hence  this  name  might 
have  been  given  to  the  acropolis. 

The  town  of  Tiryns,  like  Athens,  was  situated  in  the  plain 
encircling  its  acropolis.  Time  has  not  left  one  vestige  of  the 
town.  The  acropolis  occupied  a  low  oblong  rock  not  thirty 
feet  in  height,   standing  north  and    south ;    the   former   direction 


'  B.  9.  c.  36.  '   Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  25.  J  Eustath.  in  Homer's  Iliad,  2.  v.  559. 

*  Loc.  cit.  3  In  voce  Tt^s-  p-  "10.  6  B.  S.  p.  S73. 

1  Olymp.  1.  v.  47.  et  spq.     See  also  .Apollodor.  b.  2. 

VOL.  II.  K  K 


250  CYCLOPIAN  WALLS  OF  TIRYNS. 

faces  Nauplia,  and  the  latter  Mycenae.  The  walls  inclose  a 
space  of  about  two  hundred  and  forty-four  yards  in  length,  and 
fifty-four  in  breadth.  They  are  constructed  upon  a  straight  line, 
without  following  exactly  the  sinuosities  of  the  rock.  So  small  a 
fortress  appears  unworthy  of  the  Tirynthian  hero;  but  though  the 
space  which  it  occupies  is  small,  the  walls  are  truly  Herculean. 
Their  general  thickness  is  twenty-one  feet,  and  in  some  places  they 
are  twenty-five.  Their  present  height  in  the  most  perfect  part  is 
forty-three  feet.  In  some  places  there  are  square  projections  from 
the  walls  in  the  form  of  towers,  but  the  projection  is  very  slight. 
The  most  perfect  of  these  is  at  the  S.  E.  angle.  Its  breadth  is  thirty- 
three  feet,  and  its  height  forty-three ;  and  when  I  looked  from  its 
summit,  I  recollected  the  death  of  Iphitos'. 

Pliny 2  says  that  Thrason  first  constructed  the  walls  of  cities  ;  that 
the  Cyclopians,  according  to  Aristotle,  first  built  towers  and  forts, 
but  that  Theophrastus  attributes  the  latter  invention  to  the  Ti- 
rynthii.  "  Thrason  muros;  turres,  ut  Aristoteles,  Cyclopes;  Tirynthii, 
ut  Theophrastus." 

The  acropolis  of  Tiryns  appears  to  have  had  two  entrances,  of 
which  the  larger,  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  eastern  wall,  is  of  con- 
siderable size,  and  fronts  the  neighbouring  hills.  As  the  upper  part 
of  the  gate  has  fallen,  its  original  form  cannot  be  ascertained ;  but 
it  seems  to  have  terminated  in  a  point.  On  the  opposite  or  western 
side,  facing  Argos,  there  is  a  pointed  gate  still  entire,  which  is  seven 
feet  ten  inches  in  breadth  at  the  base,  and  nine  feet  in  height  in  its 
present  state;  but  a  considerable  part  of  it  is  no  doubt  concealed 
by  the  accumulation  of  earth  and  ruins.  There  is  another  gate  of  a 
similar  form  within  the  acropolis,  the  breadth  of  the  present  base 
being  five  feet  five  inches,  and  the  height  six  feet  eight. 

The  most  curious  remains  of  the  citadel  is  a  gallery,  the  opening 
of  which  faces  Nauplia.     It  is  of  a  pointed  form,  and  eighty-four 


1  -Apollodor.loc.  cit.  *  Nat.  Hist.  b.  I.e.  56. 


5  h<mnb    a*i 


Jj   StJtaiaB   i-  JKvaftl  A-fJJirrrtMu  i&f 


&ig-**y 


Wm®W   TME    SACJ&'.JEJL'  ;.-?EiUE  IE 


CYCLOPIAN  WALLS  OF  TIRYNS.  251 

feet  in  length,  and  five  in  breadth.1  It  is  not  easy  to  conjecture 
the  use  of  this  singular  place.  Others  of  a  similar  kind  are  found 
in  the  most  ancient  Cyclopian  cities  of  Greece  and  Italy.  The 
remains  of  some  are  observed  at  Argos,  and  others  are  seen  amongst 
the  ancient  cities  of  Cora,  Norba,  Signia,  and  Alatrium,  in  Italy, 
the  walls  of  which  resemble  those  of  Tiryns,  Argos,  and  Mycenae. 

All  the  exterior  walls  of  Tiryns  are  composed  of  rough  stones  :  the 
largest  which  I  measured  was  nine  feet  four  inches  in  length,  and 
four  feet  in  thickness ;  their  usual  size  is  from  three  feet  to  seven. 
The  walls,  when  entire,  were  probably  not  less  than  sixty  feet  in 
height;  at  least  so  it  would  appear  from  the  quantity  of  stones 
which  have  fallen  to  the  ground.  Tiryns  was  destroyed  by  the 
Argians,  as  well  as  Mycenae,  about  468  years  before  Christ. 

Within  the  acropolis  are  a  few  detached  blocks,  which  have  been 
hewn,  and  which  appear  to  have  belonged  to  the  gates. 

The  finest  Cyclopian  remains  in  Greece  are  the  walls  of  Tiryns 
and  Mycenae ;  but  they  are  both  inferior  to  the  more  gigantic 
Cyclopian  structures  of  Norba,  in  Latium,  which  was  a  Pelasgian 
colony.  Several  other  Pelasgic  cities,  whose  wonderful  ruins  still 
remain  in  the  mountainous  districts  of  the  Volsci,  the  Hernici,  the 
Marsi,  and  the  Sabini,  exhibit  walls  of  equal  strength  and  solidity 
with  those  of  Argolis.  The  ruins  of  Tiryns  are  situated  in  a  deserted 
part  of  the  plain,  and  we  may  say,  with  Statius,c 

"  — — ^—  Rarus  vacuis  habitator  in  arvis 


Monstrat,  Cyclopum  ductas  sudoribus,  arces." 

Towards  the  east  rise  some  barren  hills,  the  quarries  of  which  fur- 
nished the  materials  for  the  structure  of  the  Tyrinthian  acropolis. 
The  prospect  from  this  spot  comprehends,  in  a  rich  and  variegated 
assemblage  of  objects  the  whole  plain  of  Argos,  with  its  mountains, 


'  For  a  more  detailed  account  of  this  subterraneous  passage,  consult  Sir  William  Gell's 
Argolis,  p.  56.  '  Theb.  4.  v.  150. 

K  K  2 


252  VIEW  FROM  TIRYNS. 

its  capital,  and  its  gulf,  the  hills  of  Mycense,  the  town  of  Nauplia, 
with  its  magnificent  fortress,  and,  immediately  below  the  eye,  the 
Tirynthian  ruins.1 

While  I  was  here  taking  a  view  with  my  camera  obscura,  some 
Turkish  aghas  passed  on  horseback,  and  the  riders,  as  well  as  the 
horses,  seemed  alarmed  at  the  novelty  of  the  sight.  I  heard  them 
ask  my  guide,  "  what  that  Frank  dog  was  doing  in  that  machine?" 
The  guide,  who  was  a  wag,  told  them  I  was  praying  to  Panagia;  but 
they  soon  understood  that  I  was  drawing,  and  said,  "  he  may  pray 
to  Panagia  here  as  much  as  he  pleases,  but  if  he  does  so  near 
Nauplia,  woe  be  to  him  \"  I  made  fruitless  inquiries  concerning 
the  caves  and  labyrinths8  near  Nauplia,  which  were  built  by  the 
Cyclopians :  they  were  probably  at  the  foot  of  McuntPalamidi,  near 
the  sea  ;  but  a  minute  examination  of  the  immediate  vicinitj'  of 
Nauplia  is  neither  a  safe  nor  easy  undertaking.  The  Turks  are 
extremely  jealous  of  this  fortress,  and  are  characterised  by  an  inhos- 
pitable dislike  to  strangers.  The  remains,  that  are  as  yet  unknown,  will 
be  brought  to  light,  when  the  reciprocal  jealousy  of  the  European 
powers  permits  the  Greeks  to  break  their  chains,  and  to  chase  from 
their  outraged  territory  that  host  of  dull  oppressors,  who  have  spread 
the  shades  of  dense  ignorance  over  the  land,  that  was  once  illumi- 
nated by  science,  and  who  unconsciously  trample  on  the  venerable 
dust  of  the  Pelopidae  and  the  Atridae! 


1  Bearings  from  the  hill  behind  Tiryns :  Extremity  of  the  promontory  of  Nauplia,  S. 
20.  W. ;  Prison  Island,  S.  28.  W.;  Larissa  of  Argos,  N.  58.  W. 
5  OiMSojj.rfoi  \a.(Zvpiyt)oi.    Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  369. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Tour  of  Epidauria — Village  of  Ligurio  and  ruins  on  the  road  to  it — Sacred  forest  of  .SLsculapius 
— Temples — Theatre — Other  remains — Village  Epidaura — Ruins  of  Epidauros — Village  of 
Karangia — Remains  of  an  ancient  city — Village  of  Damala — Ruins  of  Trcezen — Acropolis — 
Promontory  of  Methana — Town  of  Poros — Island  of  Kalauria — Temple  of  Neptune — To 
Methana — The  isthmus — Promontory — Village — Ruins  of  the  ancient  city — Village  of 
Dara — Village  of  Phanari — Superb  view  of  the  gulf — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city — Tele- 
graphic beacons — Remains  of  an  ancient  city — Village  of  Epidaura — Village  of  Piada — Gifts 
of  hospitality — Village  of  Agios  Joannes — Arrival  at  Corinth. 


TO  LIGURIO. 

vJN  the  14th  we  proceeded  to  Epidauria.  After  quitting  Nauplia 
we  observed  several  small  and  scattered  vestiges  of  antiquity ;  and 
in  fifty  minutes  passed  through  the  village  of  Kakingra,  a  few  hun- 
dred paces  from  which  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  edifice,  con- 
sisting of  nothing  but  some  fallen  blocks  of  stone.  The  church  of 
Saint  Andrianos,  or  Adrianos,  forms  a  conspicuous  object  on  a 
pointed  acclivity  to  the  right,  near  which  are  the  ruins  of  a  small 
ancient  fortress ;  the  walls  are  of  the  polygonal  construction,  and 
are  situated  on  a  steep  ascent.  As  we  proceeded  we  observed  some 
other  traces  near  a  deep  ravine,  which  we  crossed,  beyond  which 
the  monastery  of  Saint  Demetrius  is  seen  in  a  secluded  glen  to  the 
left. 

The  plain  which,  we  had  traversed  from  Nauplia  is  narrow  and 
unfruitful,  and  bounded  by  barren  eminences,  of  a  dull  and  uni- 
form aspect.  We  deviated  a  little  to  examine  the  remains  of 
an  ancient  square  tower,  situated  at  the  extremity  of  the  con- 
tracted valley  through  which  we  had  been  passing.  This  tower  is 
composed  of  well-joined  polygons  of  rather  small  dimensions.     It 


254  RUINS  BETWEEN  NAUPLIA  AND  LIGURIO. 

has  been  restored  since  its  original  construction,  and  the  interstices 
of  the  walls  are  cemented  with  mortar.  It  was  one  of  the  {Aovowgytu,,1 
or  single  tower  forts,  erected  to  guard  the  passage  from  the  territory 
of  Epidauros  to  that  of  Nauplia,  from  the  castle  of  which  it  is  distant 
two  hours  and  forty  minutes.  From  this  place  we  proceeded  across 
a  small  stream,  flowing  in  a  deep  ravine.  The  soil  here  assumes  a 
fertile  aspect,  and  is  cultivated  with  corn,  and  planted  with  olive 
groves. 

Half  an  hour  from  the  last  ruins  brought  us  to  the  remains  of  a 
small  ancient  city  and  fortress,  constructed  in  the  second  and  third 
styles,  and  fortified  with  a  few  round  and  square  towers :  the  stones 
are  of  moderate  dimensions,  and  the  fortress  seems  to  have  been 
used  in  modern  times,  as  the  walls  have  been  repaired  and  cemented 
with  mortar.  It  must  have  been  a  place  of  importance  at  all  times, 
as  it  commands  the  pass  to  Nauplia.  These  are  probably  the  re- 
mains of  Midea,  which,  according  to  Apollodorus, 2  was  fortified  by 
Perseus.  It  was  in  ruins  before  the  time  of  Pausanias.5  According 
to  Strabo,4  Prosy  mna  and  the  temple  of  Juno  were  in  this  vicinity. 

After  quitting  this  place,  we  crossed  a  deep  ravine,  containing  a 
small  stream  ;  at  a  short  distance  from  which  some  ancient  vestiges 
are  visible,  and  a  monastery  is  observed  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  to  the 
right.  Several  other  traces  and  tiles  are  scattered  about  the  plain, 
and  the  entire  way  from  Nauplia  seems  to  have  been  strongly 
fortified  and  thickly  peopled.  A  fountain,  which  is  near  the  road, 
forms  a  small  subterraneous  aqueduct,  conveying  the  water  to  the 
neighbouring  village  ofLigurio,  where  we  arrived  after  having 
passed  near  the  church  of  A0ia  Marina,  with  some  adjacent  vestiges 
of  antiquity. 

Ligurio,  which  is  a  large  village,  is  about  five  hours  from  Nauplia, 
and  situated  at  the  entrance  of  the  great  plain,  in  which  were  the 
temple  and  the  sacred  grove  of  JEsculapius.     It  occupies  the  site  of 


'  See  Procop.  de  iEdific.  b.  4.  c.  5.  p.  7Q.    Paris  edit.  "  B.  2.  3  B.  2.  c.  25. 

4  B.  S.  p.  373:  he  writes  it  /xiJJas,  and  says  it  was  pronounced  like  Teyiz.      Pausanias 
writes  it  indifferently,  with  and  without  the  diohthong. 


RUINS  AT  LIGURIO.  255 

a  small  ancient  city,  which  stood  upon  an  oblong  rock  at  the  foot 
of  some  barren  hills,  part  of  the  ancient  Sapyselaton  or  Arach- 
naion,1  which  were  formerly  decorated  with  the  altars  of  Jupiter 
and  Juno.2  The  walls  of  the  town  are  very  much  ruined;  the  parts 
which  are  still  entire  are  in  the  third  style.  Many  blocks  and  heaps 
are  scattered  about,  but  nothing  approaching  to  a  perfect  building 
is  left.  Pausanias'  mentions  the  village  of  Lessa,  between  Midea 
and  Epidauros,  and  says  that  it  contained  the  temple4  of  Minerva. 
Ligurio  answers  to  the  position  of  Lessa ;  but  if  it  was  surrounded 
by  walls,  it  merited  the  name  of  ToXtg  rather  than  that  of  *»/«;.  This 
was  the  boundary  of  the  Argian  and  the  Epidaurian  territories.5 


TO  THE  SACRED  GROVE  OF  ^SCULAPIUS. 


On  the  15th  of  December  we  pursued  our  journey,  intending  to 
pass  the  day  amongst  the  ruins  of  the  sacred  grove6  of  iEsculapius. 

We  passed  by  a  well  and  a  ruined  church,  and  crossing  a  dry 
water  course,  observed  to  our  right  the  villages  of  Piri  and  Koroni. 
The  plain  had  a  luxuriant  appearance;  it  was  cultivated  with  corn 
and  vineyards,  from  which  a  more  palatable  and  less  resinous  wine 
is  produced  than  that  which  is  generally  found  in  this  part  of 
Greece.     In  an  hour  and  forty  minutes  we  arrived  at  the  first  ruins 


1  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  2.3.  *  Ibid. 

3  Loc.  cit.  xtufMj.     There  is  a  village  at  present  called  Lessa  between  Epidauros  and 
Methana.  4  vaoy.  4  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  26. 

6  upov  aA<roj.     Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  27. 


256  SACRED  GROVE  OF  ^SCULAPIUS. 

of  the  sacred  enclosure,  which  are  at  present  known  by  the  name  of 
Jero,  which  is  derived  from  the  word  ngov,  and  is  allusive  to  the 
temple.  The  word  iegug  is  seen  on  some  of  the  coins'  of  Epidauros, 
alluding  probably  to  the  sacred  character  of  the  grove  of  iEsculapius. 
The  temple  and  the  surrounding  edifices  occupied  the  space  of  a 
city.  They  were  encircled  by  a  consecrated  peribolos,  amid  a 
close  barrier  of  mountains,  of  which  the  principal  were  Arachnaion, 
Titheion,  and  Kunortion.  These  lofty  eminences  are  characterised 
by  rugged  sterility,  and  by  an  undulating  uniform  outline.  They 
are  sprinkled  with  a  variegated  assemblage  of  dark-coloured  shrubs, 
particularly  the  lentiscus,  juniper,  and  myrtle. 

The  splendid  hospital  of  iEsculapius  was  the  constant  resort  of 
the  sick  and  the  feeble  from  all  parts  of  Greece.  Here  the  efficacy 
of  the  medical  art  was  put  to  the  test  of  experiment,  and  the  power 
of  faith  in  the  virtues  of  the  healing  god,  was  invoked  to  accelerate 
the  cure.  This  useful  establishment,  in  which  superstition  assisted 
the  purposes  of  benevolence,  was  supported  more  by  the  sacrifices 
of  gratitude  to  the  god,  than  by  the  productive  powers  of  the  soil. 
The  officiating  ministers  of  the  deity,  who  were  at  once  priests  and 
physicians,  were  venerated  by  the  Greeks  and  revered  by  distant 
nations.  Other  temples  in  imitation  of  this  were  afterwards  erected 
in  different  parts  of  Greece,  Italy,  and  Asia  Minor ;  but  this  pos- 
sessed a  higher  degree  of  renown  than  all  the  rest,  as  it  was  the 
birth-place  of  iEsculapius  himself,  who  had  here  dispensed  his  re- 
medies for  those  numerous  maladies  which  shorten  the  days  or  em- 
bitter the  existence  of  man. 

The  first  place  which  I  was  desirous  of  identifying  amongst  these 
scattered  and  fallen  fragments  of  piety  and  munificence  was  the 
temple  of  iEsculapius.  I  found  the  remains  of  two  temples  that 
are  level  with  the  ground,  which  is  strewed  with  elegant  fragments 
of  the  Doric  and  Ionic  orders  in  marble  and  in  stone,  but  not  of 


1  EQIAATPOT  IEPAC.    Caput  iEsculapii  laureatum.     Rev.  ACKAHnEIA  intra  coronam 
laurcam  AE.  III.  ex  Musco  ill.  march.  Savorgnan.      Eckhel  numi  vet.  Tab.  9.  p.  1ST. 


TEMPLE  OF  .ESCULAPIUS.— THEATRE.  257 

large  proportions.1  The  pavement  of  one  of  the  temples  is  entire, 
and  composed  of  large  square  slabs  of  the  marble  of  the  country, 
which  is  of  a  light  red  colour  veined  with  white.  This,  from  its 
superior  size,  is  probably  the  temple  of  iEsculapius.  Strabo5 
affirms  that  the  statue  of  the  god  was  removed  from  Epidauros  by  the 
Romans.  But  Pausanias3  describes  one  of  ivory  and  gold,  the 
work  of  Thrasymedes,  which  was  still  remaining  in  his  time.  The 
Anonymous4  after  enumerating  the  seven  wonders,  mentions  a  statue 
of  iEsculapius  at  Epidauros. 

Contiguous  to  this  temple  are  the  remains  of  the  circular  edifice 
which  Pausanias5  denominates  QoXog,  which  was  built  by  Polukleitos, 
and  contained  the  paintings  of  Pausias.  Several  blocks  belonging 
to  the  exterior  of  the  building  are  covered  with  inscriptions,  some 
of  which  have  already  been  published.6 

Pausanias  says  that  there  were  at  one  time  a  great  many  columns 
within  the  peribolos,  upon  which  were  inscribed  the  names  of  those 
who  had  been  cured  by  the  god,  as  well  as  the  nature  of  their 
maladies.  The  enclosure  of  the  consecrated  grove  was  filled  with 
edifices  for  the  convenience  of  the  sick  and  the  amusement  of  the 
convalescent.  But  of  all  the  ancient  remains  at  this  place  the  theatre 
is  the  grandest  and  the  best  preserved:  Pausanias,7  who  thought 
it  the  most  beautiful  he  had  ever  seen,  says  that  it  was  constructed 
by  Polukleitos,  to  whom  no  other  architect  could  be  compared. 
The  topographer  mentions  it  as  within  the  sacred  enclosure,  sv  ru 
ugu.  The  koilon  is  nearly  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation,  and 
fifty-four  seats  are  remaining,  which  have  only  one  division  or 
prcecinctio,  and  are  intersected  by  several  small  transverse  steps,  about 
two  feet  and  a  half  in  breadth,  leading  from  the  bottom  to  the  top 


1  The  diameter  of  an  Ionic  column  which  I  measured  was  three  feet  three  inches.     That 
of  a  Doric  column  was  three  feet  six  inches.     They  were  both  of  stone. 

2  B.  \1.  p.  567.  3  B.  2.  c.  27.  4  De  incredibil.  2. 

5  oixijjxa  Se  vepttpepe;  Xiflou  Xsuxoy,  xa\ouy.cvov  ©oXoy,  luxoiofj-tjlai  vXrjfftw,  Osa;  a£iov.     Loc.  cit. 

6  By  Doctor  Chandler.  7  Loc.  cit. 

VOL.  II.  L   L 


258  THEATRE. 

of  the  theatre.  Although  the  koilon  is  hollowed  out  of  the  base  of  a 
rocky  hill,  yet  the  seats  are  formed  of  the  pink  marble  found  near 
the  spot.  They  are  worked  with  more  care  than  in  the  other  Gre- 
cian theatres,  and  were  evidently  contrived  with  all  due  attention  to 
the  accommodation  of  a  feeble  audience  of  convalescents.  The 
height  of  each  seat  is  one  foot  two  inches  and  a  half,  and  the 
breadth  two  feet  nine  inches  and  a  fifth.  About  the  middle  of  the 
seat  is  a  narrow  channel  or  groove,  an  inch  deep,  in  which  wood 
work  was  probably  fixed,  in  order  to  prevent  the  backs  of  the 
spectators  from  being  incommoded  by  the  feet  of  those  who  sat  in 
the  rows  behind  them,  and  also  to  serve  as  a  rest  for  the  weak 
shoulders  of  a  valetudinary  audience.  At  the  Athenian  theatres  *  each 
person  had  the  liberty  of  taking  a  cushion  to  sit  upon.  The  same 
practice  probably  prevailed  in  other  parts  of  Greece,  nor  is  it  likely 
that  the  audience  would  sit  upon  the  bare  stone,  which  the  physicians 
of  iEsculapius  must  have  known  to  be  highly  prejudicial  to  the  health. 
In  theatres  where  the  seats  had  no  separation  for  the  feet,  the 
audience  must  have  been  continually  exposed  to  disagreeable  ac- 
cidents and  unavoidable  disputes,  a  circumstance  to  which  Ovid1 
seems  to  allude, 

"  Tu  quoque,  qui  spectas  post  nos,  tua  contrahe  crura 
Si  pudor  est,  rigido  nee  preme  terga  genu." 

The  seats  are  not  perfectly  horizontal,  but  incline  gently  inwards, 
which  was  perhaps  intended  to  render  the  position  of  the  con- 
valescent audience  more  easy  than  it  could  have  been  on  a  com- 
pletely horizontal  surface. 

Many  inconveniences  must  have  been  associated  with  the  exhi- 
bition of  the  Grecian  drama,  which  could  be  disregarded  only  by 
the  enthusiastic  fervour  with  which  the  audience  listened   to  the 


1  See  iEschines  in  Ctesiphon.     The  seats  of  the  stadium  at  Delphi,  and  those  of  the 
theatre  at  Stratonicea,  in  .Asia  Minor,  are  nearly  similar  to  those  at  Epidauros. 

2  Amor.  b.  3.  v.  23. 


THEATRE.  259 

sublime,  the  majestic,  or  the  tender  compositions  of  iEschylus,  of 
Sophocles,  or  of  Euripides ;  while  they  heard  the  pungent  jests,  and 
the  gay  sallies  of  Aristophanes,  with  rapturous  merriment.  The 
performances  took  place  in  the  open  day ;  and  the  spectators,  un- 
protected by  any  roof,  of  which  the  theatres  were  destitute,  were 
exposed  to  all  the  fortuitous  variations  of  the  weather.  We  should, 
however,  reflect  that,  in  the  delightful  climate  of  Greece,  a  sudden 
and  unexpected  fall  of  rain  scarcely  ever  happens  in  the  summer 
season,  as  in  northern  countries;  and  a  time  of  day  was  probably 
selected  for  the  representations,  when  the  theatres  were  not  incom- 
moded by  the  glare  of  the  sun.  For  this  reason  it  is  probable  that 
the  Ifiiahia.,  or  umbrellas,  with  which  the  audience  were  generally 
provided,  were  taken  rather  as  a  precaution  against  the  casualties 
of  the  weather,  than  as  a  defence  against  the  sun. 

The  confusion  occasioned  by  a  sudden  and  hard  rain  must  have 
been  inconceivable,  when  every  one  sought  refuge  under  the  por- 
ticos and  covered  places.  Some  idea  of  the  effects  of  rain  on  such 
occasions  may  be  formed  from  a  similar  circumstance,  which  I  have 
sometimes  witnessed  at  Rome,  in  the  mausoleum  of  Augustus,  which 
has  been  converted  by  the  modern  inhabitants  into  an  unroofed 
amphitheatre.  A  sudden  shower  drives  the  spectators  to  the  covered 
stairs;  and,  were  this  place  as  thickly  attended  as  the  theatres  of  popu- 
lous cities, many  serious  accidents  would  frequently  occur.  The  theatre 
of  Epidauros  is  considerably  more  than  half  a  circle,  and  its  form 
nearly  resembles  that  of  the  theatre  of  Bacchus  at  Athens.  The 
seats  are  nearly  covered  with  bushes  of  lentiscus ;  which,  by  in- 
sinuating its  roots  between  the  interstices  of  the  marble,  loosens  the 
stones,  and  enlarges  the  fissures  of  those  which  are  already  disjointed. 
At  the  foot  of  the  koilon  there  is  a  thronos  of  white  marble,  formed, 
as  usual,  out  of  a  single  block. 

The  Grecian  theatres,  according  to  Pausanias,  would  not  bear  a 
comparison  with  those  of  Rome  in  the  magnificence  of  their  struc- 
ture, or  the  sumptuousness  of  their  embellishments.    We  know  from 

l  l  2 


260  CRUELTY  OF  THE  ROMANS. 

the  authority  of  Pliny,1  that  a  theatre,  erected  by  Scaurus  in  that 
capital,  could  contain  eighty  thousand  people,  and  was  decorated 
with  three  hundred  and  sixty  columns,  and  three  thousand  statues. 
It  is  needless  to  mention  the  Flavian  amphitheatre,  which  contained 
eighty  thousand  spectators,  and  in  which  five  thousand  wild  beasts 
were  let  loose  at  the  same  moment  to  tear  each  other  to  pieces  for 
the  amusement  of  the  Roman  ladies.  The  disgusting  combats  of 
men  and  bulls,  which  are  still  exhibited  at  Rome,  in  the  mausoleum 
of  Augustus,  are  a  poor,  but  admired  relic  of  this  ancient  barbarism, 
and  show  that  the  love  of  savage  sports  is  still  predominant  with  the 
modern  inhabitants  of  that  city. 

Besides  the  temple  of  iEsculapius,  and  the  theatre,  Pausanias 
mentions  a  temple2  of  Diana,  another5  of  Venus  and  of  Themis,  and 
a  stadium  formed,  according  to  the  Grecian  custom,  with  a  bank 
of  earth.4  The  structures  raised  by  Antoninus  Pius  were  a  bath,  a 
temple5  of  the  gods  Epidotai ;  and  another,6  consecrated  to  the 
associated  divinities  of  Hygeia,  iEsculapius,  and  the  ^Egyptian 
Apollo.  He  also  restored  the  portico7  of  Kotuos,  and  built  an  hospital 
for  the  sick.  Livy,8  speaking  of  the  temple  of  iEsculapius,  seems  to 
say  that  it  was  completely  ruined,  "  Nunc  vestigiis  revulsorurn  dono- 
rum,  turn  donis  dives  erat,  quae  remediorum  salutarium  aegri  mer- 
cedem  sacraverant  Deo/'  It  was  evidently  raised  from  its  ruins 
long  after  that  period.  Strabo9  says  that  the  temple  was  always 
filled  with  sick  persons,  and  that  it  teemed  with  dedicatory  tablets, 
in  which  were  described  the  maladies  from  which  each  patient  had 
been  liberated,  as  at  Kos,  and  Trikka.  The  remains  of  the  stadium 
are  visible,  near  the  great  temple ;  the  receptacles  for  the  water  of 
the  bath  of  Antonine  are  also  preserved,  and  lined  with  stucco ;  a 


1  Nat.  hist.  h.  36.  c.  15. — See  also  Lipsius  de  magnif.  Roman.  3.  *  volo;. 

3  l£f Of.  *  yrjs  yw^z.  5  iBpov.  6  yaov.  '  2/02. 

8  B.  45.  c.  2S. 

0  B.  S.  p.  37  I. — xzi  luiv  a.va.x.tipzvwv  wanm,  iv  oi;  avaysyfa/^asycu  'ivyyaxmsw  eu  rJes2.rirj.$. 


ROMAN  RUINS.  261 

stone  spout  is  still  seen  in  the  wall,  where  the  water  entered  from 
under  ground ;  originating  probably  from  the  great  fountain  noticed 
by  Pausanias.  Several  other  masses  of  Roman  brick  are  dispersed 
amongst  the  ruins. 

It  is  not  known  to  what  cause  the  destruction  of  this  place  is  to 
be  ascribed.  Many  valuable  antiquities  are,  no  doubt,  concealed 
under  the  confused  piles  of  accumulated  ruins ;  and  the  scattered 
profusion  of  fragments,  and  rich  marbles,  may  readily  induce  us  to 
believe  that  the  labours  of  an  excavation  would  be  amply  repaid. 
I  found  some  specimens  of  a  most  beautiful  green  porphyry,  which 
I  had  never  seen  before ;  and  it  is  unknown  even  at  Rome,  where  all 
the  rich  marbles  of  the  world  seem  to  have  been  collected. 

The  sacred  grove  is  now  reduced  to  some  scattered  shrubs  and 
bushes.  The  surrounding  country  is  dull  and  monotonous.  The 
neighbouring  elevations  were  enriched  with  sacred  edifices,  and  merit 
a  careful  examination.  But  there  is  no  place  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  where  we  could  have  passed  the  night,  and  we  accordingly 
continued  our  journey  in  the  evening,  after  having  spent  the  day 
amongst  the  ruins.  This  was  much  less  time  than  would  have  been 
necessary  for  a  minute  examination  of  this  interesting  locality. 


TO  EPIDAURA,  EPIDAUROS. 

We  crossed  a  small  stream  that  permeates  the  deep  bed  of  a  tor- 
rent, and  rises  at  the  base  of  the  neighbouring  hills,  the  source  being 
probably  the  fountain  of  JEsculapius. 

The  road  was  extremely  bad,  and  hilly;  and  the  country  being 
uncultivated,  was  overgrown  with  many  kinds  of  shrubs,  small  pines, 


262  RUINS  OF  EPIDAUROS. 

and   wild  olives.     Some  few  uncertain  vestiges  are  seen   near  the 
road . 

In  an  hour  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Saronic  gulf,  where  the  view 
was  adorned  with  the  rocky  and  pointed  promontory  of  Methana, 
while  the  islands  of  iEgina  and  Salamis,  with  the  Attic  coast,  and 
its  capital,  captivated  the  eye  by  the  beauty  they  displayed,  and 
the  recollections  they  inspired. 

We  passed  through  the  plain  where  Hyrnetho,  wife  of  Deiphontes, 
was  buried,  and  honoured  with  an  heroic  monument."  The  plain  is 
watered  by  a  rapid  rivulet,  which  turns  a  mill.  Before  entering 
Epidauros,  Pausanias  mentions  the  monument2  of  Melissa,  wife  of 
Periander,  son  of  Cypselos ;  and  also  that  of  Prokles  the  father  of 
Melissa :  but  I  observed  no  remains  of  these  monuments.  Peri- 
ander, the  tyrant  of  Corinth,  having  put  his  wife  to  death,  a  war 
ensued  between  the  two  neighbouring  states;  Prokles,  the  tyrant  of" 
Epidauros,  was  taken  by  Periander,  as  well  as  the  capital. 3 

We  arrived  at  the  village  of  Epidaura  in  two  hours  and  ten 
minutes.  It  stands  upon  the  ruins  of  Epidauros,  which,  according 
to  Livy,4  was  five  miles  from  the  temple  of  iEsculapius.  The  badness 
of  the  road  made  the  distance  appear  more  considerable. 

The  ancient  city,  of  which  time  has  preserved  only  a  few  and 
imperfect  vestiges,  occupied  the  plain,  at  the  foot  of  a  peninsular 
promontory,  divided  into  two  points,  on  which  the  acropolis  was 
situated. 

The  few  remains  of  the  walls  which  are  preserved,  are  of  the  fourth, 
or  last,  style  of  ancient  Grecian  masonry.  The  dense  mass  of  bushes 
which  envelops  the  ruins,  will  not  permit  an  elaborate  investigation 
of  the  antiquities,  and  it  was  by  mere  chance  that  I  found  the  fallen 
ruins  of  a  Doric  temple  of  small  proportions ;  probably  that s  of  Juno, 


i 


i}$uiov. — Pausan.  b.  1.  c.  28.  J  fx.vr/laa. 

3  Herodot.  b.  3.  c.  50.  and  52.— Athenaeus  Deipnosoph.  b.  13.  *  B.  45.  c.  28. 

6  upov — B.  2.  c.  29. 


5 
I    © 

32       M 


3? 


RUINS  OF  EPIDAUROS.  263 

which,  according  to  Pausanias,  was  on  the  promontory  near  the 
port.  He  also  says,  that  within  the  acropolis,  there  was  a  %ouvo»,  or 
wooden  statue  of  Minerva,  that  merited  inspection. 

Epidauros  was  a  place  of  strength ;  it  was  frequently  at  war  with 
the  surrounding  states  of  Athens,  Corinth,  iEgina,  and  Argos ;'  and 
when  the  city  of  Danaus  was  disaffected  to  the  common  cause  of 
Greece,  Epidauros  sent  ten  ships  against  the  Persians  at  Salamis,1 
and  eight  hundred  men  to  Plataea.'  After  the  death  of  Leonidas, 
all  its  troops  were  stationed  at  the  Corinthian  isthmus,  to  defend  the 
pass  into  the  Peloponnesos.4  Strabo5  observes  that  Epidauros  is 
not  an  ignoble  city ;  that  it  is  situated  in  a  recess  of  the  gulf;  and 
that  it  is  naturally  a  strong  place,  and  inclosed  by  lofty  mountains. 
The  acropolis  seems  to  have  served  as  a  fortress  in  modern  times. 
In  the  middle  ages  it  was  probably  a  place  of  some  importance,  from 
the  security  of  its  situation,  and  the  commodiousness  of  its  port. 
At  the  foot  of  the  promontory  several  masses  of  ruins  are  covered 
by  the  sea ;  and,  on  that  side  which  is  towards  the  plain,  there  are 
some  other  Doric  remains ;  some  Roman  fragments  in  white  marble 
are  also  seen,  which,  from  the  inelegance  of  style  so  peculiar  to 
that  people,  are  readily  distinguished  from  the  Greek.  Here  is  the 
draped  statue  of  a  female  figure,  in  a  recumbent  posture,  forming, 
apparently,  the  cover  of  a  sepulchre.  The  other  particular  objects 
at  Epidauros,  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  were  a  temenos  of  iEscula- 
pius,  a  temple6  of  Bacchus,  a  grove7  sacred  to  Diana,  and  a  temple* 
of  Venus.  No  certain  remains  of  any  of  these  structures  are  seen 
at  the  present  day. 


1  Thucyd.  b.  5.         *  Herodot.  b.  8.  c.  43.         3  Id.  b.  9.  c.  28.         *  Id.  b.  8.  c.  12. 

*  ovx.as-inj.os  ijwoki;.  B.  8.  p.  374.  The  following  are  the  proportions  of  the  fragments 
which  I  found  on  the  promontory  :  Diameter  of  a  stone  column  three  feet  six  inches  and  a 
half  under  the  capital,  twenty  flutings.  Another  frustum,  two  feet  ten  inches  and  a  half. 
Another,  two  feet  two  inches ;  the  flutings  not  indented,  but  plain.  There  is  one  Doric 
capital,  but  I  found  no  triglyphs. 

6  yao;.     B.  2.  c.  29.  7  a.\<ro;.  8  «f>ov. 


264  VIEW  FROM  EPIDAUROS. 

The  Epidaurian  plain  is  of  small  dimensions;  but  fertile  and  cul- 
tivated with  corn  and  vineyards.  The  wine,  however,  has  lost  its 
ancient  reputation,1  and  is  now  weak  and  resinous,  though  that 
which  is  made  near  the  sacred  forest  is  of  a  good  quality. 

The  view  from  the  promontory  is  very  extensive,  and  commands 
the  Saronic  gulf.  The  plain  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  a  grand 
chain  of  mountains,  which,  stretching  out  into  the  sea,  join  the  isth- 
mus of  Methana.  This  promontory  shoots  up  into  steep  pyramidal 
points,  which  exclude  the  islands  of  the  iEgean  sea  from  the  field  of 
view.  Behind  the  isthmus  is  distinguished  the  island  of  Kalauria, 
and  the  plain  of  Troezen.  Towards  the  south-east  is  the  entrance  of 
the  gulf,  the  Sunium  promontory,  and  the  island  of  Patroclus,  with 
Mount  Laurion,  Hymettos,  Pentelikon,  Parnes,  Aigaleos,  and  Gera- 
nia.  The  blue  expanse  of  the  gulf  is  broken  by  the  interposing 
islands  of  iEgina  and  Salamis,  and  some  insular  rocks ;  beyond 
which  the  Athenian  acropolis,  the  hill  of  Musoeus,  and  Mount  An- 
chesmos,  are  clearly  visible,  though  at  so  considerable  a  distance. 
This  proves  the  diaphanous  purity  of  the  atmosphere.2 


TO  KARANGIA. 


On  the  16th,  we  proceeded  towards  Troezen  ;  and,  crossing  the  dry 
bed  of  a  torrent,  came,  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  to  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  plain,  and  began  to  ascend  the  mountains  which 
separated  Epidauria  from  Trcezenia.     The  roads  were  as  bad   as 


1  a.p.TxsXotvf  Ei)iJau/30y.     Homer.  Iliad,  2.  v.  561. 
*  Bearings  from  Epidauros.     The  summit  of  JEgina  called  Oros,  N.  88.  E. ;  summit  of 
Methana,  S.  78.  E. 


RUINS  ON  THE  ROAD  TO  TR03ZEN.  265 

possible;  and  we  passed  through  a  thick  and  extensive  shrubbery 
of  lentiscus,  myrtle,  juniper,  and  arbutus,  with  an  intermixture 
of  small  firs  and  cypresses. 

In  an  hour  we  reached  the  ridge  of  the  mountain,  which  from  its 
rugged  asperity  is  denominated  Trachia;1  and,  after  a  descent  of 
twenty  minutes,  arrived  at  a  village  called  Kotaki,  where  some 
vestiges  of  antiquity  may  be  seen.  In  forty-six  minutes  more  we 
reached  a  village  named  Trachia,  situated  on  the  site  of  an  ancient 
town,  of  which  some  extensive  traces  and  foundations  are  still  left. 
It  would  appear  that  Pausanias  went  from  Epidauros  to  iEgina; 
and  from  thence  by  sea  to  Trcezen,  as  he  mentions  nothing  on  the 
road.     The  ancient  name  of  Trachia  must  therefore  rest  in  obscurity. 

Continuing  our  route,  we  passed  by  two  ancient  wells,  with  several 
other  vestiges,  and  some  tumuli.  After  crossing  the  bed  of  a 
torrent,  in  two  hours  and  thirty-six  minutes  from  Epidauros,  we 
arrived  at  the  foot  of  an  eminence  covered  with  trees,  and  crowned 
with  a  palaio-kastro,  or  ancient  fort. 

We  had  no  time  to  examine  this  place,  as  our  guides  assured  us 
that  any  delay  would  prolong  the  journey  till  after  dark;  and  that 
the  roads,  which  were  nearly  impassable  during  the  day,  would  be 
impracticable  by  night.  Our  way  continued  through  a  plain,  inter- 
mingled with  arable  and  pasture,  and  at  intervals  covered  with 
extensive  tracts  of  bushes. 

Having  crossed  a  stream,  and  leaving  a  village  on  a  hill  to  the  left, 
we  reached  the  summit  of  an  eminence  that  overlooked  a  lower  plain 
than  the  one  we  had  lately  traversed.  Its  surface  was  varied  with 
round  undulating  hills,  and  enlivened  with  trees  and  verdure. 

We  crossed  three  diminutive  rivulets,  and  in  forty  minutes  from 
the  last-mentioned  palaio-kastro,  arrived  at  a  miserable  village 
called  Karangia,  and  slept  in  the  cottage  of  a  miller,  whose  corn- 
mill  is  turned  by  a  picturesque  and  rapid  stream. 

1  From  VaXur 
VOL.  II.  M  M 


266  RUINS  ON  THE  WAY  TO  TRCEZEN. 


TO  DAMALA  TRCEZEN. 


We  continued  our  journey  the  next  morning,  and  in  a  short  time 
observed  some  vestiges  of  antiquity.  A  little  further  on  is  a  foun- 
tain, and  in  an  hour  from  Karangia  we  reached  the  summit  of  some 
gentle  eminences  which  we  had  been  ascending  all  the  way  from 
the  village.  Hence  we  descended  to  a  plain  where  some  green  pas- 
tures were  intermingled  with  patches  of  wild  uncultivated  ground. 

An  hour  and  a  quarter  from  Karangia  brought  us  to  the  base  of 
a  pointed  rocky  acclivity  of  a  massy  and  insulated  form,  on  the 
summit  of  which  are  the  remains  of  a  fort  called  Korasa,  which  is 
apparently  of  modern  construction,  as  it  is  composed  of  small  stones 
easily  distinguishable  from  its  base.  Its  situation  however  is  so 
advantageous,  that  it  was  probably  fortified  in  ancient  times.  I 
was  desirous  of  examining  if  there  were  any  remains  of  antiquity, 
but  the  ascent  was  extremely  difficult,  and  our  time  was  too  limited 
for  the  undertaking.  Indeed  during  my  tour  in  the  Peloponnesos, 
a  day  seldom  elapsed  in  which  I  was  not  thus  obliged  to  overlook 
some  antiquities,  and  to  sacrifice  the  smaller  to  the  greater  objects; 
for  the  time  was  now  nearly  expired  during  which  leave  of  absence 
had  been  granted  me  by  the  French  government,  and  it  was  im- 
periously necessary  for  me  to  return  to  Rome,  the  place  of  my  de- 
tention, before  the  conclusion  of  that  period. 

Having  crossed  some  small  streams  and  a  rapid  river,  we  arrived 
at  a  lame  village  called  Potamoi,  which  is  two  hours  from  Karansja. 
This  place  is  situated  in  a  picturesque  manner  on  the  side  of  a 
hill  enriched  with  various  trees,  but  particularly  olives,  and  several 
mills  are  turned  by  the  river  which  ripples  at  its  base. 

On  quitting  the  village  we  began  to  ascend,  and  passing  over 
some  arable  land,  crossed  a  small  stream,  and  in  thirty-six  minutes 
from  Potamoi,  arrived  at  the  summit  of  the  hills,  and  had  a  view  of 


RUINS  OF  TROEZEN.  267 

the  plain  of  Troezen,  the  island  of  Kalauria,  and  the  Attic  moun- 
tains, bounding  the  Saronic  gulf. 

The  hills  over  Avhich  we  passed  were  covered  with  almost  every 
variety  of  shrub  which  I  have  seen  in  Greece :  a  circumstance  that 
seems  to  indicate  the  genial  temperature  of  this  part  of  the  coast, 
which  is  sheltered  from  the  north,  and  open  to  all  the  warm  breezes 
of  the  south  and  east. 

After  a  descent  of  fourteen  minutes  we  entered  an  arable  plain, 
and  having  crossed  a  rivulet,  lost  every  trace  of  road,  and  wandered 
a  long  time  among  rocks  and  bushes  where  our  horses  frequently 
fell,  and  our  hands  and  faces  were  scratched  with  thorns.  After 
much  trouble  and  fatigue  we  reached  the  plain  of  Troezen,  and 
crossing  a  stream,  probably  the  Chrysorhoas,  arrived  at  the  ruins  of 
that  ancient  city,  and  lodged  in  the  house  of  a  Greek  merchant  at 
the  village  of  Damala,  the  inhabitants  of  which  are  industrious  and 
wealthy,  carrying  on  some  commerce  with  the  neighbouring  coast, 
and  the  islands  of  the  Archipelago.  No  Turks  are  seen  amongst 
them,  and  they  affect  a  certain  degree  of  independence  which  this 
part  of  the  coast  seems  to  have  contracted  from  their  vicinity  to  the 
opulent  and  commercial  island  of  Hydrea,  which  is  the  focus  of 
liberty  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  maritime  parts  of  Greece,  as 
Laconia  is  to  those  of  its  interior.  Great  part  of  the  plain  of 
Troezen  remains  in  an  uncultivated  state,  owing  to  the  deficiency  of 
population.  The  air  in  summer  is  consequently  unhealthy  and  pro- 
ductive of  fevers,  besides  being  impregnated  with  the  sour  smell  of 
the  oalaxidi  or  euphorbia  characias,'  which  grows  in  great  abundance 
about  the  rocks,  and  is  reckoned  extremely  injurious  to  the  health. 

The  ancients  made  great  complaints  of  the  badness  of  the  wine* 
and  of  the  water'  of  Troezen.  They  are  still  reckoned  heavy  and 
antidiuretic.     The  plain  of  Troezen  is  situated  at  the  eastern  base 


1  The  Ti9u,«,aXoj  ^apaxia;  of  Dioscorides. 

*  Theophrast.  Hist.  Plant,  b.  9-  c.  20.     Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  b.  14.  c.  18. 
3  Vitruv.  b.8.  c.  3.     Athenaeus  Deipctosoph.  b.  2.  c.  4. 

M  M  2 


268  RUINS  OF  TRCEZEN. 

of  some  rough  and  rocky  hills,  covered  with  dark  evergreens  and 
stunted  trees.  Its  port  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  pre- 
sent village,  and  had  the  denomination  of  Pogon,1  or  the  Beard, 
from  the  lengthened  tongue  of  land  by  which  it  is  formed,  being 
a  narrow  strip  bending  like  a  scythe.  According  to  Strabo1  the 
port  was  fifteen  stadia  from  the  city.  It  is  at  present  shallow, 
obstructed  by  sand,  and  accessible  only  to  small  boats. 

The  fictitious  contest  between  Bacchus  3  and  Minerva  for  the 
possession  of  Troezenia,  probably  intimated  that  the  territory  was 
productive  of  wine  and  of  oil.  Neptune  was  also  a  particular  object 
of  adoration  among  the  Troezenians,  which  seems  to  imply  that  they 
were  earby  versed  in  naval  concerns  and  in  maritime  commerce. 
According  to  Plutarch*  and  Pausanias,5  the  ancient  money  of 
Troezen  had  the  trident  represented  on  one  side,  and  the  head  of 
Minerva  on  the  other;  but  these  coins  have  never  been  found. 
Those  which  have  come  down  to  us  bear  a  female  head;  and 
on  the  reverse  a  trident  and  dolphin.  Inscrip.  TPO  and  A  under 
the  dolphin.6  There  are  also  imperial  coins  of  Trcezen,  of  Com- 
modus,  and  Septimius  Severus. 

Trcezen  was  formed  from  the  two  contiguous  towns  of  Hypereia 
and  Antheia,  by  Pitheus,7  son  of  Pelops,  who  gave  it  the  name  of 
liis  brother  Trcezen.8  The  city  must  have  been  richly  embellished 
even  in  the  second  century,  when  Pausanias  particularizes  four  of 
its  isgtx,,  eight  moi,  a  liptvos, 9  a  portico,  theatre  and  stadium,  besides 
several  sepulchres,  monuments,  statues,  and  altars,  and  other  sacred 
and  ornamental  edifices  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Notwithstanding 
all  these  accumulated  decorations,  it  appears  that  in  the  time  of  the 
Persian  war,  Troezenia  was  not  more  powerful  than  the  neighbouring 

■  Herodot.  b.  8.  c.  42.     Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  373.  "  B.  8.  p.  373. 

s  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  30.  *  Life  of  Theseus.  J  B.  2.  c.  30. 

6  See  Pellerin,  pi.  20.  p.  132.  fig.  13.  3d.  b. 

7  See  also  Plutarch's  life  of  Theseus.  8  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  30. 

"  I  have  giveii  the  Greek  words,  being  at  a  loss  how  to  discriminate  in  our  language  the 

upov,  vao; ,  and  hptves. 


RUINS  OF  TRCEZEN.  269 

Epidauria.  It  had  five  vessels  at  the  battle  of  Salamis,1  and  one 
thousand  troops  at  Plataea.2  After  the  death  of  Leonidas,  the  whole 
force  of  its  territory  was  collected  at  the  isthmus  to  defend  the 
passage  into  the  Peloponnesos. 5 

Strabo4  says  that  in  his  time  it  was  by  no  means  an  ignoble  city ; 
but  Plutarch5  calls  it  a  small  town  ;  Eustathius6  gives  it  the  epithet 
of  emo-yipos,  "illustrious."  It  was  celebrated  for  being  the  birth- 
place of  Theseus,  and  was  hence  called  Theseis ;  it  is  denominated 
"  Theseia  Troezen"  by  Statius  ;7  and  Theseus  himself  is  called  "  Troe- 
zenius  Heros"  by  Ovid.8 

At  a  very  early  period  its  population  became  too  numerous  for  its 
contracted  territory,  and  formed  settlements  in  distant  countries. 
It  founded  Halicarnassos,  which,  in  the  height  of  its  prosperity, 
acknowledged  Troezen  as  its  metropolis.9  According  to  Stepha- 
nus,'°  it  had  at  different  periods  the  names  of  Aphrodisias,  Sa- 
ronia,  Poseidonias,  Apollonias,  and  Anthanis. 

I  have  seen  few  places  where  an  excavation  would  be  more  likely 
to  produce  antiquities  than  the  ruins  of  Troezen,  which  are  overgrown 
with  weeds  and  bushes  ;  amongst  which  I  found  a  multiplicity  of 
inscribed  and  architectural  fragments,  many  of  them  belonging  to 
the  Romans.  In  a  dilapidated  church  a  fine  Latin  inscription,  on 
a  pedestal  of  marble,  in  an  inverted  position,  serves  as  an  altar,  and 
relates  to  a  statue  raised  by  "  the  city  to  the  invincible  emperor  Caesar 
Marcus  Aurelius  Antoninus,  son  of  the  emperor  Caesar  Septimius 
Severus  Pertinax." 

In  the  same  church  is  a  small  columnar  altar,  similar  to  that  at 
Chaeroneia.  Here  is  also  a  triglyph  and  a  frizeand  soffits,  in  which 
there  are  holes  instead  of  guttae,  which  were  probably  of  bronze,  or 
some  other  material,  fixed  into  the  marble. 


■  Herodot.  b.  8.  c.  43.  ■  Id.  b.  9.  c.  28.  3  Id.  b.  8.  c.  72. 

4  B.  8.  p.  378.  ovS'  auhj  atnj/Aoy  ttoXij.         s  Life  of  Theseus.         fi  In  Homer,  p.  287,  9. 
*  Tbeb.  4.  v.  81.  •  Metara.  8.  v.  566.  9  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  32. 

10  De  Urbib.  p.  719.         "  Published  by  Dr.  Chandler. 


270  RUINS  OF  TR(EZEN. 

In  a  neighbouring  church  called  Palaio-Episkopi,  are  some  frusta 
of  fluted  Doric  columns,  and  other  fragments  of  white  marble,  with 
the  sculptured  foliage,  which  constitutes  the  principal  ornament  of  the 
frize  of  the  Erechtheion  at  Athens.  The  lower  part  of  the  cella  of  a 
temple  near  the  church  is  finely  constructed  in  regular  masonry.  In 
the  same  place  are  two  inscriptions ;  one  of  which,  on  a  circular  altar, 
has  already  been  published,1  and  is  a  dedication  of  some  object  to  a 
benefactor  of  the  city.  The  other  seems  to  relate  to  the  placing  of 
a  statue,  and  is  on  a  marble  column,  which  probably  formed  the 
pedestal. 

ETTTXOCEP 
MOTCTN 

TnTmEicm 

NIANE0H 
KEN 

In  the  church  of  aytov  lujrigos  (the  holy  Saviour)  are  several  frag- 
mented inscriptions,  and  other  indications  of  decorative  architecture. 
In  the  same  vicinity  there  is  a  great  collection  of  various  fragments 
in  the  same  spot,  and  it  seems  improbable  that  they  should  have  be- 
longed to  the  same  building,  on  account  of  the  variety  of  their  forms 
and  dimensions.2  Several  other  churches  are  scattered  about  in  a 
state  of  ruin  ;  and  it  is  probable  that  all  of  them  were  erected  on 
the  foundations  of  temples. 

Near  the  church  of  Palaio-Episkopi  are  the  remains  of  a  square 
tower,  with  six  layers  of  blocks,  supporting  a  modern  superstruc- 
ture. Near  the  same  place  are  some  masses  of  Roman  brick-work. 
From  the  number  of  dilapidated  churches,  some  of  which  are  larger 
than  is  usual  in  Greece,  as  well  as  from  the  scattered  remains  which 


By  Dr.  Chandler. 
4  The  principal  fragments  are  three  frusta  of  columns  of  a  dark  stone.  They  are  deka- 
hexagonal,  or  divided  into  sixteen  flat  surfaces,  instead  of  flutings;  each  face  being  five  inches 
broad.  Another  column  is  octagonal,  having  eight  surfaces.  A  fluted  Doric  column,  and 
a  plain  one  of  small  proportions.  There  is  a  small  brick  structure  near  Rome,  called  the 
Temple  del  Dio  Redicolo,  which  has  octagonal  columns. 


sa 


RUINS  OF  TR(EZEN.  271 

appear  to  have  been  constructed  before  the  fall  of  the  empire,  it  is 
probable  that  Damala  was  a  place  of  some  consequence  in  the 
middle  ages.  Fourmont  says,  that,  in  his  time,  it  contained  four 
hundred  houses,  and  that  the  inhabitants  enjoyed  good  health. 
It  is  still  an  episcopal  see ;  but,  owing  to  the  unhealthiness  of  the 
air,  the  bishop  does  not  reside  there ;  and  in  most  of  the  churches 
which  are  seen  amongst  the  ruins,  divine  service  is  performed  only 
once  a  year,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  Saint  to  whom  they  are  dedi- 
cated ;  on  which  day  the  portrait  of  the  Saint  and  other  suitable 
accompaniments  are  exposed  to  the  inspection  of  the  devout,  and 
afterwards  removed  and  deposited  in  the  house  of  the  papas. 

We  rode  with  considerable  difficulty  to  the  summit  of  a  rocky 
hill  which  rises  to  the  west  of  the  ruins,  and  on  which  the  acropolis 
was  situated.  Towards  its  base,  the  fount  of  Hercules'  issues 
from  the  rock.  The  road  is  extremely  bad,  and  it  took  us  half 
an  hour  from  Damala  to  reach  the  summit,  which  is  occupied 
by  the  imperfect  and  shattered  remains  of  a  fortress  constructed 
in  the  lower  ages,  and  composed  of  small  stones  and  mortar. 
Here  are  also  some  ruined  churches  in  a  similar  style  of  construc- 
tion; but  not  a  single  indication  of  antiquity  is  visible,  and  our 
trouble  was  only  repaid  by  the  extent  and  interest  of  the  view, 
which  towards  the  west  overlooks  a  deep  and  circular  valley,  en- 
compassed by  rocky  precipices  of  considerable  height,  rough  with 
bushes  and  chequered  with  trees.  Towards  the  east  the  plain  and 
ruins  of  Troezen  are  seen,  with  its  port,  the  islands  of  Kalauria  and 
Belbina,  the  open  JEgean,  and  the  promontory  of  Sunium,  with 
Laurion  and  Hymettos ;  but  Athens  is  intercepted  by  the  pointed 
and  lofty  promontory  of  Methana.  Turning  to  the  north  we  descry 
the  projections  of  Epidauria,  beyond  which  the  coast  of  Megaris 
is  distinguished,  with  Mount  Gerania,  and  the  white  summit  of 
Parnassos. 

1  Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  33. 


272  PROMONTORY  OF  METHANA. 

Diodorus  Siculus1  relates,  that  Phaedra,  when  enamoured  with 
Hippolytus,  consecrated  a  temple  to  Venus  upon  the  acropolis  of 
Athens,  from  whence  she  could  distinguish  Trcezen,  the  residence 
of  the  object  of  her  passion.  The  promontory  of  Methana,  which 
at  present  obstructs  the  view,  not  only  of  Athens  but  of  its  loftiest 
mountains,  might  possibly,  in  the.  time  of  Phredra,  have  been  a  flat 
surface,  or  may  even  not  have  existed  at  all ;  as  the  whole  of  that, 
at  present  mountainous  tract,  has  evidently  been  thrown  up  by  the 
powerful  operation  of  a  volcano,  which,  according  to  Pausanias,2 
happened  in  the  time  of  Antigonus,  son  of  Demetrius.  Were  the 
promontory  removed,  Athens  might  be  seen  over  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  iEgina.  It  would  appear,  from  Strabo, '  that  the  rage  of  the 
volcano  was  not  exhausted  in  his  time,  for  he  says  it  was  sometimes 
inaccessible  from  the  intensity  of  the  heat  which  it  occasioned,  and  the 
sulphurous  odours  which  it  diffused.  He  adds,  that  at  night  it  was 
visible  from  afar,  and  that  the  sea  was  hot  for  five  stadia  round 
it.  The  beautiful  lines  of  Ovid,  descriptive  of  the  volcano  of 
Methana,  seem  to  prove  that  the  promontory  rose  from  a  plain,  and 
that  Trcezen  might  consequently  have  been  visible  from  Athens 
previous  to  that  event. 

"  Est  prope  Pittlieam  tumulus  Trcezenu,  sine  ullis 
Arduus  arboribus,  quondam  plauissima  campi 
Area,  nunc  tumulus :   Nam  (res  horrenda  relatu) 
Vis  fera  ventorum,  caecis  inclusa  cavernis, 
Expirare  aliqua  cupiens,  luctataque  frustra 
Liberiore  frui  ccelo,  cum  carcere  rima 
Nulla  foret  toto,  nee  pervia  flatibus  esset 
Exlentam  tumefecit  liumum  ;  ceu  spiritus  oris 
Tendere  vesicam  solet,  aut  derepta  bicorni 


1   B   4   c.  62.     lfyv<rah  tspav  ApfoM>;j  vapa  'rtv  Axf07roXi»,  obey  i}»  xadopa*  lrtr  Tfoijya. 
"  B.  2.  c.  34.  s  B.  1.  p.  59. 


PROMONTORY  OF  METHANA.  273 

Terga  capro  :  tumor  ille  loco  permansit;  et  alti 
Collis  habet  speciem,  longoque  induruit  aevo." 1 

In  the  period  of  exile,  Demosthenes  was  for  some  time  a  resident 
at  Trcezen,  and  used  to  look  towards  the  Attic  coast  with  tears  in 
his  eyes.2 


TO  POROS  AND  THE  ISLAND  OF  KALAURIA. 


We  reassumed  our  journey  on  the  18th,  wishing  to  visit  the  spot 
where  the  prince  of  orators  terminated  his  glorious  existence.  We 
pursued  a  path  through  the  plain,  which  contains  a  singular  mixture 
of  cultivation  and  barrenness.  Some  spots  were  luxuriating  with 
corn,  while  others  were  covered  with  thistles,  and  relinquished  to 
desolation.  The  soil  is,  however,  in  general  fertile,  if  we  may  judge 
by  the  size  of  the  weeds  and  bushes,  which  are  some  of  the  largest 


1  Metam.  b.  15.  v.  296.  et  seq. 

Near  Trcezen  stands  a  hill,  expos'd  in  air 
To  winter  winds,  of  leafy  shadows  bare ; 
This  once  was  level  ground,  but  (strange  to  tell) 
Th'  included  vapours  that  in  caverns  dwell, 
Lab'ring  with  cholic  pangs  and  close  contin'd, 
In  vain  sought  issue  from  the  rumbling  wind  : 
Yet  still  they  heav'd  for  vent,  and  heaving  still, 
Inlarg'd  the  concave,  and  shot  up  the  hill, 
As  breath  extends  a  bladder,  or  the  skins 
Of  goats  are  blown  t'inclose  the  hoarded  wines  : 
The  mountain  yet  retains  a  mountain's  face, 
And  gather'd  rubbish  heals  the  hollow  space. 
1  Plutarch's  Life  of  Demosthenes. 


VOL.  II.  N  N 


274  TOWN  OF  POROS. 

I  have  ever  seen;  particularly  the  comely  agnos,  and  the  elegant 
rhod odaphne,  which  here  assume  more  the  character  of  trees  than  of 
shrubs. 

We  passed  by  some  cottages,  gardens,  and  fountains,  and  crossed 
three  dry  water-courses,  which,  in  the  winter,  are  filled  with  occa- 
sional torrents  from  the  neighbouring  mountains.  Some  imperfect 
traces  were  visible  near  the  way.  In  an  hour  and  thirty-eight  mi- 
nutes from  Damala  we  arrived  at  the  sea-side,  opposite  the  insular 
town  of  Poros,  and  crossed  over  in  a  ferry-boat,  the  channel  which 
separates  it  from  the  continent,  is  only  a  few  hundred  yards  in 
breadth.  Strabo1  says  that  Kalauria  is  four  stadia  from  the  con- 
tinent, and  Pliny "  makes  it  five  hundred  paces. 

The  town  and  the  island  are  named  Poros,  which,  in  the  Greek 
language,  has  the  signification  of  the  passage  or  ferry.  It  is  in- 
habited entirely  by  Greeks,  who  are  l'ich  and  industrious  traders, 
almost  independent,  and  extremely  insolent  and  inhospitable  to 
strangers.  It  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  we  could  prevail 
upon  a  merchant  to  let  us  pass  the  night  in  one  of  his  lumber 
rooms  ;  and  which  we  did  not  effect  till  he  had  made  us  wait  three 
hours  at  his  door,  fasting  and  cold.  The  worst  kind  of  Greeks  are 
those  of  Poros,  Hydrea,  and  some  of  the  commercial  islands,  where 
they  think  themselves  independent,  because  not  under  the  imme- 
diate bondage  of  Turkish  despotism.  They  have  all  the  disgusting 
impudence  of  emancipated  slaves,  and  are  characterised  by  an  over- 
bearing and  contemptuous  manner,  which  is  far  more  offensive  than 
the  haughty,  though  genteel  and  dignified,  deportment  of  the  Turks. 

I  feel  myself  imperiously  bound  to  prefer  the  plain  statements  of 
impartial  truth  to  every  other  consideration,  and  consequently  I  shall 
not  scruple  to  declare  that  I  never  found  any  Turkish  insolence  or 
brutality  so  disgusting  as  the  little  despicable  pride  and  low  im- 
pertinence  of  the  contemptible   and  filthy  inhabitants   of  Poros. 


1   B.  8.  p.  369.  *  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  12. 


INSOLENCE  OF  THE  PORIOTES.  275 

The  Greeks  are  nowhere  so  courteous  and  civilised  as  in  villages, 
particularly  when  suffering  under  the  united  pressure  of  poverty 
and  despotism,  and  governed  by  a  Turk.  I  have  indeed  heard  the 
former  confess  that  fair  dealing  is  little  practised  and  justice  little 
respected  among  them,  unless  they  are  awed  by  the  despotic  pre- 
sence of  a  voivode.  But  no  fair  estimate  of  the  Greeks  can  be 
formed  from  their  present  abject  condition  and  humiliating  circum- 
stances. They  are  replete  with  intellect  and  talent,  and  possess 
many  excellent  qualities  which  might  elevate  them  nearer  to  a  level 
with  their  glorious  progenitors,  if  they  were  liberated  from  the  yoke 
of  bondage,  which  is  such  an  inveterate  foe  to  all  mental  energy 
and  all  moral  worth,  which  paralyses  the  more  noble  sentiments, 
and  freezes  "  the  genial  current  of  the  soul." 

My  janissary,  Ibrahim,  with  all  the  insolence  of  a  common  Turk, 
was  highly  offended  at  the  air  of  independence  that  was  assumed 
by  the  Greeks  of  Poros;  and  felt  particularly  shocked  at  their 
wearing  arms  and  coloured  slippers  like  Musulmans.  It  was  ex- 
tremely amusing  to  observe  the  contest  between  prudence  and  in- 
dignation, which  was  evidently  working  in  his  soul.  Circumstances 
were  now  changed ;  and  he  could  no  longer  indulge  himself  in  his 
usual  ejaculations  of  pig !'  and  '  dog  !'  but  was  compelled  to  submit 
to  similar  derogatory  epithets  from  those  whom  he  had  been  ac- 
customed from  his  infancy  to  consider  as  slaves.  The  scene  was  so 
truly  ridiculous,  that  my  visit  to  Poros,  even  with  all  the  insults 
and  bad  fare  that  I  experienced,  was  fully  compensated  by  the  re- 
tributive justice  which  now  overwhelmed  him  with  the  same  morti- 
fying outrage  with  which  I  had  so  frequently  seen  him  assail  the 
Greeks,  and  which  I  often  had  the  greatest  difficulty  to  repress. 
It  was  no  easy  matter  to  prevent  him  from  returning  to  the  con- 
tinent and  sleeping  amongst  the  bushes,  rather  than  continue  the 
object  of  their  contemptuous  jeers,  and  the  witness  of  such  unusual 
abominations. 

The  town  of  Poros  is  built  with  a  dark-coloured  volcanic  stone, 
of  which  the  island  is  composed.     The  volcano,  by  which  it  was 

N  N  2 


276  ISLAND  OF  KALAURIA. 

created,  is  not  noticed  by  the  ancients,  and  the  period  of  its  exist- 
ence is  unknown.  It  stands  on  a  rocky  promontory  and  peninsula, 
united  to  the  body  of  the  island  of  Kalauria  by  a  low  and  narrow 
strip  of  sand.  But,  when  the  wind  blows  strong  from  the  north  or 
south,  and  the  sea  is  high,  the  water  passes  completely  over  the 
isthmus,  forming  two  islands. 

The  port  of  Poros  has  two  entrances ;  one  towards  the  south,  with 
two  insular  rocks  at  its  mouth ;  the  other  entrance  is  towards  the 
north.  We  here  found  several  trading  boats,  and  three  merchant 
vessels ;  yet  Poros  is  in  some  respects  a  most  miserable  place,  and  is 
destitute  of  wood  and  water,  both  of  which  are  procured  from  the 
continent. 

On  the  20th  we  proceeded,  on  foot,  to  search  for  the  temple  of 
Neptune,  situated  on  the  most  elevated  part  of  Kalauria,  at  present 
called  Palatia.  Having  passed  over  the  isthmus  of  sand,  we  began 
to  ascend,  and  found  that  the  body  of  the  island  is  composed  of 
round  and  rocky  hills,  covered  with  a  thin  arid  soil,  where  a  small 
quantity  of  corn  is  produced,  and  a  few  olive-trees  grow.  In  the 
uncultivated  tracts,  I  remarked  the  kotinos,  or  wild  olive,  and  small 
pines,  with  the  lentiscus,  juniper,  cistus,  and  other  odoriferous  shrubs 
and  plants  that  are  common  in  this  climate. 

Dionysius1  Periegetes  gives  Kalauria  the  epithet  of  7^%s/«;  and 
Rufus2  Festus  Avienus,  that  of  "  saxosa,"  which  it  fully  merits. 

In  an  hour  we  reached  the  temple,  which  is  situated  on  one  of  the 
highest  summits  of  the  island,  and  may  be  nine  hundred  or  a  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

According  to  Strabo3  and  Pausanias,4  this  celebrated  temple 
must  be  of  the  highest  antiquity,  as  it  existed  before  Delos  was 
sacred  to  Latona,  and  Delphi  to  Apollo.  Not  a  single  column  of  this 
celebrated  sanctuary  is  standing,  nor  is  the  smallest  fragment  of  a  co- 
lumn to  be  seen  amongst  the  ruins.    Some  masses  of  the  architecture 

1  Orbis  Descrip.  v.  498.  2  Orbis  Descrip.  v.  671.  3  B.  S-  c.  573. 

4  B.  2.  c.  33. 


TEMPLE  OF  NEPTUNE.  277 

are  remaining,  with  the  guttae  which  were  under  the  triglyphs,  which 
show  that  it  was  of  the  Doric  order.  The  vertex,  or  epikranitis,1  of 
the  pediment  is  also  lying  amongst  the  ruins ;  the  foundation  of  the 
cella  remains,  which  evidently  proves  that  it  was  not  of  great  pro- 
portions. Within  the  cella  are  the  foundations  of  some  pillars, 
which  are  two  feet  nine  inches  square,  and  one  foot  three  inches 
apart.  Here  are  also  some  large  blocks,  which  had  formed  the 
exterior  part  of  a  circular  building,  and  are,  perhaps,  the  remains 
of  the  monument2  of  Demosthenes,  which  was  within  the  peribolos. J 
A  semicircular  seat  of  stone  remains  near  the  north-west  end  of  the 
temple  on  the  outside  of  the  cella. 

When  Archias  was  sent  by  Antipater  to  induce  Demosthenes  to 
quit  the  sacred  asylum  of  Neptune,  he  found  him  sitting  without 
the  temple :  perhaps  upon  that  very  seat  which  still  remains.  The 
orator  then  entered  the  temple,  and  swallowed  the  poison,  with 
which  he  was  always  provided.  The  stone  of  which  this  venerated 
sanctuary  is  composed,  is  the  dark  volcanic  rock  of  the  island,  which 
is  too  coarse  to  be  highly  worked.  Some  fragments,  however,  are 
seen  among  the  ruins,  consisting  of  a  fine  black  marble,  and  of  some 
pieces  from  the  white  quarries  of  Pentelikon,  and  the  grey  rocks  of 
Hymettos. 

Several  other  remains  are,  no  doubt,  concealed  by  the  impene- 
trable thickness  of  the  lentiscus,  which  covers  part  of  the  ruins. 

This  temple  was  an  asylum4  of  the  greatest  sanctity,  and  uni- 
versally respected ;  before  the  Kalaurian  confederacy,  as  well  as 
after  its  cessation,  the  celebrity  and  the  opulence  of  this  place  were 
maintained  by  the  inviolable  shrine  of  the  deity,  and  the  sacred 
character  of  his  ministers. 

The  view  from  hence  overlooks  the  Saronic  gulf,  with  its  islands, 


Dr.  Chandler's  Athenian  inscription.  2  ftv^a. — Pausan.  b.  3.  c.  33, 

3  Ibid.  *  Strabo,  b-  8.  p.  373. 


278  ISLAND  OF  KALAURIA. 

and  the  Attic  mountains  and  capital,'  with  the  iEgean  sea;  and» 
towards  the  south,  the  island  of  Hydrea.*  The  circuit  of  the  island 
of  Kalauria  appears  to  be,  at  least,  seven  or  eight  miles ;  though 
Strabo3  makes  it  only  thirty  stadia;  but  he  is  always  in  error  when 
he  computes  the  circumference  of  islands. 


TO  METHANA. 


On  the  19th  we  crossed  over  to  Trcezenia,  as  happy  to  quit  our 
insolent  hosts  as  they  were  to  get  rid  of  us.  When  we  had  reached 
terra  firma,  Ibrahim  offered  up  thanks  to  Mohamed,  and  vowed  to 
vent  his  spleen  upon  the  first  Greek  he  met.  Nor  was  it  until  after 
I  had  threatened  to  dismiss  him  immediately  from  my  service,  that 
he  resisted  the  temptation,  which  soon  occurred,  of  executing  his 
menace  of  revenge  upon  a  poor  defenceless  shepherd,  whom  we 
met  on  the  road.  On  my  assuring  him  that  the  first  blow  he  struck 
he  should  quit  my  service,  he  said,  "  then  I  must  have  patience,  and 
swallow  all,  but  it  is  the  hardest  morsel  I  ever  chewed." 

We  passed  by  some  deserted  cottages,  and  through  some  vine- 
yards, and  proceeded  in  a  northerly  direction  towards  the  promon- 
tory of  Methana,  having  Damala,  and  the  ruins  of  Troezen,  on  the 
left  hand,  and  the  gulf  on  the  right. 

In  an  hour  we  arrived  at  the  remains  of  a  dilapidated  church, 
amid  a  scattered  mass  of  ancient  blocks,  with  the  vestiges  of  rough 
walls,  composed  of  unhewn  stones.     Twenty  minutes  more  brought 

1  Bearing  N.  36  E. 
*  At  present  named  Hydra,  u Spx.     It  is  an  Albanian  colony  from  Argolis,  and  is  fifty  miles 
from  Athens,  in  a  direct  line.  '  B.  8.  p.  369  and  373,  he  calls  it  vyo-rim. 


GRAND  VIEW  OF  THE  SARONIC  GULF.  279 

us  to  a  well  with  fragments  belonging  to  an  ancient  fountain 
situated  at  the  foot  of  an  adjoining  hill.  When  arriving  at  some 
deserted  cottages  on  an  eminence  opposite  Damala,  all  traces  of  the 
road  disappeared,  and  we  lost  our  way.  We  proceeded  with  the 
greatest  difficulty  over  a  rough  ridge  of  low  hills,  and  on  reaching 
the  summit,  overlooked  the  promontory  of  Methana  and  the  other 
interesting  objects  in  the  Saronic  gulf,  forming  a  most  extensive 
and  beautiful  prospect,  including  the  whole  coast  of  Epidauria  with 
its  lofty  mountains,  among  which  the  form  of  the  craggy  Ortholithi 
is  pre-eminently  sublime !  The  broken  shore  is  seen  curving  in  a 
varied  outline  towards  the  Corinthian  isthmus,  and  Parnassos  is 
descried  glittering  with  snow  of  the  most  immaculate  white  over 
the  steep  and  hazy  precipices  of  the  Geranian  summits. 

The  middle  of  the  view  is  filled  with  the  immense  mass  of  the 
black  volcanic  mountains  of  Methana,  shooting  up  into  pointed 
cones,  and  precipices.  Towards  its  base  are  observed  the  modern 
village,  its  ancient  city,  and  its  narrow  isthmus,  with  its  outstretch- 
ing promontories  and  indented  bays,  washed  by  the  gentle  waves 
of  a  dark  blue  sea.  The  view  of  Salamis,  and  of  the  Athenian 
ports  and  capital,  is  obstructed  by  this  interposing  mass.  Over  its 
southern  extremit}^  is  seen  the  pointed  summit  of  JEgina,  with  the 
flat  surface  of  Hymettos,  and  the  rest  of  the  Attic  coast  stretching 
in  a  line  of  varied  beauty  as  far  as  the  island  of  Patroclus,  and  the 
promontory  of  Sunium.  Beyond  these  are  discerned  the  long 
island  of  Helena,  the  rocky  Ceos,  and  the  more  distant  Cythnos, 
while  the  view  of  the  remoter  islands  is  intercepted  by  the  me- 
morable summits  of  Kalauria,  projecting  with  a  narrow  and  pointed 
base  far  into  the  Saronic  sulf.1  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  observed 
the  village  of  Dara,  to  which  we  directed  our  steps,  and  on  arriving 
there  were  happy  to  find  ourselves  in  the  right  road  for  Methana. 


1  Bearings  from  the  bill  above  Dara.  Highest  point  of  iEgina  N.  36.  E.  Summit  of 
Hymettos  N.  48.  E.  Temple  of  Neptune  in  Kalauria,  S.  71.  E.  Extremity  of  the  island 
of  Ceos,  S.  81.  E. 


280  PROMONTORY  OF  METHANA. 

We  accordingly  pursued  our  journey,  and  on  approaching  the  sea 
we  entered  upon  the  narrow  isthmus  which  unites  Methana  with 
the  continent.  It  is  fortified  with  a  thick  wall  composed  of  small 
stones  and  cement  of  a  hard  tenacious  consistency,  and  it  is  not  easy 
to  decide  whether  it  is  an  ancient  or  a  modern  construction.  We 
know  from  Thucydides '  and  Diodorus  Siculus,*  that  the  isthmus 
was  fortified  by  the  Athenians  in  the  seventh  year  of  the  Pelopon- 
nesian  war,  and  Strabo 3  informs  us  that  it  was  a  strong  place, 
observing  that  it  is  called  Methone4  by  Thucydides.  But  he  him- 
self also  calls  it  Methone  in  another  part5  of  his  work,  unless 
perhaps  this  is  an  error  of  his  copyists.  It  is  also  written  in  the 
same  manner  by  Diodorus  Siculus.  Ptolemy6  mentions  a  peninsula 
between  Troezen  and  Epidauros,  and  no  doubt  ^alludes  to  Methana. 
It  is  indeed  not  improbable  that  his  text  is  incorrect  in  this  place. 
After  Troezen  he  says  M.zff  qv  n  xego-ovqo-og,  which  the  Latin  translator 
has  rendered  "  post  quam  Chersonesus."  It  does  not  appear  to  be 
taking  too  great  a  liberty  with  the  text  to  substitute  MiOavi]  or 
Midava,  for  Miff  nv  rh  by  which  means  the  reading  becomes  more  na- 
tural and  more  consistent  with  the  style  which  he  generally  uses  in 
the  enumeration  of  places. 

Pausanias7  calls  Methana  a  small  town,  and  says  that  it  contained 
a  temple8  of  Isis,  and  that  the  statues  of  Hercules  and  of  Mercury 
were  in  the  Agora.  He  mentions  some  hot  baths  thirty  stadia  from 
the  town,  and  nine  insular  rocks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  peninsula 
called  the  islands  of  Pelops.9 

The  village  and  promontory  retain  their  ancient  names.  We 
arrived  there  after  dark  by  the  worst  roads  I  ever  travelled,  and  I 


1   B.  4.  c.  15.  -  B.  12.  c.  65.  3  B.  8.  p.  374.  4  Usiuivrj. 

5  B.  1.  p.  59.       6  Geograph.  b.  3.  c.  16.  p.  89.     7  B.  2.  c.  34.  otAi<t/*«  w  ptya.      *  ispoy. 
9  Dr.  Chandler  landed  on  several  of  the  small  islands  in  the  vicinity  of  Methana  and 
jEgina,   but  found  no   remains  of  antiquity  upon  them.     See  Chandler's  Travels  in  Greece, 
c.  51. 


PROMONTORY  OF  METHANA.  281 

believe  that  our  horses  were  the  first,  that,  in  modern  times  at  least, 
had  been  within  the  isthmus,  where  the  roads  are  reckoned  prac- 
ticable only  for  asses  and  mules.  The  distance  from  Poros  to  the 
village  of  Methana  is  probably  twelve  or  fourteen  miles,  but  it  is 
difficult  to  form  a  just  calculation,  as  we  more  than  once  lost  the 
way ;  and  the  latter  part  of  the  road  was  so  extremely  bad,  that  we 
probably  did  not  proceed  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  an  hour. 

We  were  kindly  received  in  the  house  of  the  protopapas,  who  was 
cooking  some  fine  fish  for  his  supper,  which  he  concealed  on  our 
approach,  as  he  imagined  that  we  were  Turks ;  but  when  he  dis- 
covered his  mistake,  he  offered  us  hospitality,  which  we  gladly  ac- 
cepted after  a  most  tiresome  and  fatiguing  journey.  He  assured  us 
that  we  were  the  only  people  with  hats  he  had  ever  seen  within  the 
peninsula,  and  I  readily  believe  it  from  the  extreme  surprise  and 
curiosity  of  the  villagers,  who  seemed  to  look  upon  us  as  a  new  kind 
of  beings.  But  how  much  more  agreeable  to  our  feelings  were  the 
modest  curiosity  and  natural  politeness  of  these  good  and  simple  cot- 
tagers, than  the  impertinent  flippancy  and  contemptible  arrogance 
of  the  dirty  Poriotes ! 

Cultivation  prevails  only  in  a  small  part  of  the  promontory,  but 
particularly  in  the  plain  where  the  ancient  city  stood,  and  at  the 
base  of  the  hills ;  which,  like  Delphi,  and  many  of  the  islands  of 
the  Archipelago,  consist  of  strips  and  patches  of  arable  land,  or 
vineyards,  supported  by  terrace  walls,  but  of  which  none  exhibited 
any  indications  of  antiquity.  The  rest  of  this  mountainous  promon- 
tory consists  of  sterile  desolation,  or  of  volcanic  rock  of  a  dark  colour, 
which  is  occasionally  variegated  with  shrubs  and  bushes.  The  out- 
line is  grand  and  picturesque,  and  the  principal  mountain  which 
was  thrown  up  by  the  volcano  is  of  a  conical  form.  Its  apparent 
height  is  about  equal  to  that  of  Vesuvius :  according  to  Strabo,'  it 
was  seven  stadia.     The  hot  baths  mentioned  by  Pausanias  are  at 

'  B.  ] .  p.  59. 
VOL.  n.  o  o 


282  RUINS  OF  THE  TOWN  OF  METHANA. 

present  unknown,  and  I  could  obtain  no  information  whatever  con- 
cerning them. 

The  ancient  city  of  Methana  was  situated  in  the  plain,  at  the 
foot  of  its  acropolis,  and  extended  to  the  sea,  near  which  are  a 
few  remains  of  two  edifices,  one  of  the  Doric,  the  other  of  the 
Ionic  order,  composed  of  white  marble,  and  of  small  proportions." 
Pausanias  only  notices  the  temple  of  Isis  at  Methana.  Near 
these  remains  there  is  an  ancient  well  of  considerable  depth,  con- 
taining brackish  and  unpotable  water :  and  in  the  same  vicinity  are 
two  inscriptions,  one  of  which  was  quite  illegible ;  the  other  was  in 
the  sea,  on  a  heavy  block  of  marble  ;  it  was  consequently  impossible 
to  move  it,  and  extremely  difficult  to  copy  the  inscription,  as  it  was 
actually  two  or  three  inches  under  the  water.  The  following  are  the 
only  characters  legible : 

rnEPBASIAEnsriTOAEMAIOT 

KAIBASIAI22H2KAEOnATPA20EnN*IAOMH 

TOPHNIKAITO 0EOI2 

MErAAOISETEPrETOIS  .  .  NOAION  .  .  OSTN  .  .  no 

....  ENTPS  

AXE 

The  walls  of  the  acropolis  are  regularly  constructed  and  well  pre- 
served, extending  round  the  edge  of  the  rock,  which  in  some  places 
rises  about  thirty  feet  above  the  plain.  Twenty-one  layers  of  the 
wall  are  still  remaining  in  the  most  perfect  part,  and  are  constructed 
according  to  the  emplecton  of  Vitruvius,  with  a  hard  mass  of  small 
stones,  mortar,  tiles,  and  earth,  coated  with  stones  of  a  regular 
masonry.  In  several  parts  we  may  remark  restorations,  which  are 
apparently  modern  additions. 

One  gate  only  remains,  which  is  of  a  singular  construction,  as  it 
is  square  on  the  exterior  side  of  the  wall,  and  pointed  in  the  interior. 
Near  the  gate  is  a  square  tower,  and  higher  up  the  rock  one  of  a 
circular  form  of  small  dimensions.     Two  dilapidated  churches  are 


1  Triglyphs  and  Ionic  bases  are  seen  amongst  the  ruins. 


b 


COINS  OF  METHANA.  283 

seen  within  the  acropolis,  one  of  which  contains  the  following  inscrip- 
tion on  a  slab  of  grey  marble : 

AIONTCIONArAGANnOAEITEIANnOAIT 
ETCAMENONrENOMENONAEnANEMHNA 
EPMOrENHCTONGEIONKATATHNBO'TAHCIN 
TOrriATPOCTONPHTOPA. 

The  promontory  of  Methana  has  been  fortified  in  other  places, 
and  we  are  informed  that  there  are  the  small  and  imperfect  remains 
of  three  other  palaio  kastros1  within  the  peninsula. 


We  were  fortunate  in  procuring  at  this  place  some  autonomous 
coins  of  Methana,  which  had  never  been  known  to  exist ;  and  so 
small  a  city  might  have  been  supposed  to  have  had  no  mint.  They 
are  of  brass  :  head  of  Vulcan,  known  by  the  pilidion  ;  rev.  ME,  in  a 
wreath ;  on  the  exergue  0.  The  other  has  the  same  head  ;  rev.  ^E> 
within  a  wreath.  The  head  of  Vulcan,  no  doubt,  alludes  to  the  vol- 
cano. Imperial  coins  of  Methana  have  also  been  found  of  Marcus 
Aurelius,  Septimius  Severus,  and  Julia  Domna ;  which,  besides  the 
heads  of  those  personages,  exhibit  the  figures  of  Venus,  Minerva, 
and  Neptune ;  the  inscription  is  at  full  length,  MEOANAlflN :  they 
are  of  second  brass. 


1  The  words  palaio  kastro  are  used  by  some  of  the  Byzantine  historians  in  the  same  sense 
in  which  they  are  adopted  at  the  present  day,  signifying  a  ruined  town,  or  castle. 


o  o  2 


284  VILLAGE  OF  DARA. 


TO  DARA. 

On  the  20th  we  quitted  Methana,  highly  satisfied  with  having 
visited  that  hitherto  unexplored  region ;  but  regretting  that  our 
time  would  not  permit  us  to  make  the  complete  circuit  of  the 
peninsula,  and  to  ascend  to  the  summit  of  its  volcanic  cone.  This 
is  an  undertaking  which  I  strongly  recommend  to  any  future  tra- 
veller who  has  sufficient  leisure,  with  a  competent  knowledge  of 
mineralogy,  to  avail  himself  of  those  numerous  opportunities  of 
scientific  research  which  this  spot  appears  likely  to  supply. 

As  we  quitted  Methana  in  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  in  the  even- 
ing at  the  small  village  of  Dara,  which,  though  composed  of  only  a 
few  cottages,  exhibits  an  appearance  of  plenty  which  I  have  seldom 
observed  in  the  villages  of  Greece.  The  pastoral  inhabitants  were 
all  cheerfully  disposed  to  accommodate  us  in  their  cottages  for  the 
night ;  and  we  entered  several,  all  of  which  were  well  stocked  with 
the  produce  of  their  lands.  That  in  which  we  slept  was  so  full  of 
barrels  of  olives,  sacks  of  carobapod,  and  jars  of  honey,  that  it  was 
with  difficulty  we  found  room  for  our  mattresses.  The  master  of 
the  house  played  on  the  lyre,  while  his  wife  dressed  us  a  dish  of 
excellent  fish :  they  seemed  to  be  content  with  their  situation,  and 
said  their  village  was  fortunately  so  much  out  of  the  way,  and  so 
difficult  of  access,  that  they  were  never  troubled  by  the  Turks. 


TO  PHANARI. 


On  the  21st  we  pursued  our  journey  towards  Corinth,  intending 
to  proceed  along  the  coast  of  the  Saronic  gulf  by  a  route  little 


VILLAGE  OF  PHANARI.  285 

known  to  travellers.  In  thirty-five  minutes  we  passed  a  village 
named  Phalaridi,  situated  in  a  small  circular  plain,  producing  rich 
pasture  for  sheep,  large  flocks  of  which  we  saw  with  their  new 
dropped  lambs.  Twelve  minutes  more  brought  us  to  a  narrow 
isthmus  of  land,  only  four  yards  in  breadth,  that  separated  the  sea 
on  our  right  hand  from  a  small  salt  lake  on  the  left.  We  here  turned 
northwards,  and  proceeded  through  a  plain,  bounded  by  mountains 
on  the  left,  and  by  the  gulf  on  the  right.  We  passed  over  two 
rocky  promontories,  and  in  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes  from  Dara 
entered  the  plain  of  Lessa,1  composed  of  arable  and  pasture  land, 
and  interspersed  with  caroba  trees. 

We  crossed  two  torrent  beds,  descending  from  the  rugged  sides  of 
a  grand  and  lofty  mountain,  which,  from  the  steepness  of  its  preci- 
pices, is  called  Ortholithi.2  In  half  an  hour  we  reached  the  end  of 
the  plain,  and,  ascending  some  hills,  observed  a  modern  tower  on 
our  right.  We  pursued  our  route  along  the  steep  and  precipitous 
side  of  a  mountain,  where  the  road  was  extremely  dangerous.  The 
calcareous  rock  was  broken  into  laminae,  almost  as  smooth  and  as 
slippery  as  glass ;  and  a  false  step  would  have  precipitated  a  horse 
into  the  valley  beneath !  We  arrived  at  the  village  of  Phanari  in 
three  hours  and  fifty-three  minutes  from  Dara,  and  were  kindly 
received  in  the  house  of  the  papas,  who  presented  us  a  loaf  of  good 
bread,  after  sanctifying  it  with  his  benediction.  The  villagers  were 
civil ;  but  the  supposed  folly  of  our  dress  excited  their  astonishment, 
which  they  expressed  in  loud  and  repeated  fits  of  laughter.  Their 
surprise  proves  that  very  few  travellers  have  explored  this  unfre- 
quented road. 

The  village  of  Phanari  stands  upon  the  eastern  side  of  a  steep 
mountain    rising    abruptly  from    the  Saronic  gulf,   which  is  seen 


•  This  is  a  modern  village,  and  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  ancient  Lessa,  near  the  temple 
of  iEsculapius,  mentioned  by  Pausanias. 
4  From  opQos  and  Aifloj. 


286  RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 

clashing  against  the  projecting  precipices  of  the  mountain.  Near  the 
village  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  city,  situated  on  a  bare 
precipitous  rock,  the  edge  of  which  is  encircled  by  the  ruins  of  the 
walls.  These  are  in  the  fourth  style  of  construction.  Three  dilapi- 
dated churches  appear  within  the  walls,  with  two  ancient  altars,  a 
sepulchral  cippus,  enriched  with  sculptured  foliage,  and  two  frag- 
ments of  the  mreandered  ornament  in  white  marble.  I  could  find 
no  inscription,  nor  the  remains  of  any  temple,  which  could  elucidate 
the  ancient  name  of  the  place.  Here  are  some  modern  walls  and 
restorations ;  probably  the  construction  of  the  middle  ages,  or  the 
work  of  the  Venetians ;  for  the  position  is  exceedingly  strong,  and 
well  adapted  for  a  fortress.  None  of  the  gates  are  remaining: 
there  was  one  facing  the  south,  and  another  on  the  opposite  side, 
but  their  foundations  only  are  visible. 

The  port  is  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  there  are  also  some 
remains  of  ancient  walls. 

The  view  by  which  the  traveller  is  here  gratified  is  richly  charac- 
terised by  the  magnificence  and  the  sublimity  of  the  particular  parts, 
as  well  as  of  the  general  whole.  This  grand  assemblage  of  pic- 
turesque scenery  is  heightened  by  the  associated  interest  of  past 
times.  We  do  not  merely  behold  an  inanimate  landscape,  but  a 
landscape  enlivened  by  events,  and  immortalized  in  the  recollections 
of  history.  The  shadows  of  great  men,  of  the  good,  the  brave,  and 
the  wise,  appear  to  wave  over  the  prospect  both  by  sea  and  land  ; 
and  every  locality  in  the  picture  not  only  delights  the  eye,  but  agi- 
tates the  breast.  The  Saronic  gulf,  once  the  scene  of  commercial 
activity,  and  of  the  highest  naval  renown,  is  here  beheld  in  its  most 
attractive  features,  and  in  all  its  diversified  forms  of  classical  cele- 
brity. The  combinations,  the  details,  the  tints  thrown  over  the 
varied  surface — all  harmonize  in  a  panorama  that  is  at  once  impres- 
sively grand,  and  exquisitely  beautiful.  We  gazed  with  rapture 
upon  the  soft  waving  lines  of  the  Saronic  islands,  and  the  Attic 
mountains,  the  blue  expanse  of  the  open  iEgean  sea,  with  its  distant 


TELEGRAPHIC  BEACONS.  287 

islands,  that  are  so  admirably  contrasted  by  the  majestic  and  lofty 
rocks  of  Ortholithi,  whose  steep  and  pointed  precipices  tower  above 
the  gulf.1 

We  remained  here  one  day,  in  order  to  complete  an  accurate 
drawing  of  this  singularly  impressive  view. 

The  word  Phanari,  which  in  modern  Greek  signifies  a  lantern,  has 
probably  something  traditional  in  its  meaning.  There  are  several 
places  in  Greece  that  are  designated  by  the  same  appellation ;  and 
all  of  which  are  in  very  lofty  and  commanding  situations,  where  a 
vast  extent  of  country  is  thrown  beneath  the  eye.  I  conceive  these 
to  have  been  spots  on  which  the  ancients  had  telegraphs ;  that  is, 
signals  of  communication,  such  as  we  may  suppose  them  to  have 
been  in  their  primitive  state,  by  means  of  fires  and  lights  by  night, 
and  of  smoke  during  the  day. 

Several  instances  of  telegraphic  correspondence  are  mentioned 
by  the  ancients.  Lynceus  corresponded  with  Hypermnestra  by 
means  of  fire  signals,  from  Lyrcaea  on  Mount  Artemision,  and 
the  Larissa  of  Argos,  the  intermediate  distance  being  sixty  stadia. 
The  taking  of  Troy  was  notified  to  Clytemnestra  at  Mycenae,  by 
fire  signals  from  the  island  of  Lemnos,  and  the  intervening  mountains 
of  Athos,  Messapios,  Cithaeron,  Aigiplanktos,  and  Arachnaion.2 
Homer3  probably  alludes  to  the  same  custom  in  one  of  his  similes. 
Herodotus,4  Thucydides,5  JEneas,6  Aristotle,7  Polybius,8  Diodorus 
Siculus,9  Livy,'0  Polyaenus,"  Suidas, 12  Harpocration,"  and  others, 
mention  this  method  of  telegraphical  correspondence.    The  telegraph 


1  Bearings  from  Phanari.  Summit  of  Pentelikon,  N.  62.  E.  Acropolis  of  Athens,  N. 
CO.  E.  Summit  of  Hymettos,  N.  64.  E.  Summitof  y£gina,  N.  70.  E.  Island  of  Belbina, 
S.  68.  E.     Temple  of  Neptune  in  Kalauria,  S.  62.  E.     Town  of  Poros,  S.  58.  E. 

*  jEschylus.  Agamem.         3  Iliad,  19.  v.  376.         *  B.  7.  c.  182,  and  b.  9.  c.  3. 

5  B.  2.  c.  94.,  b.  3-  c.  8.  and  22.         6  Lib.  Tactic,  de  toleranda  obsidione. 

7  De  Mundo.         8  B.  10.  p.  614.  et  seq.         9  B.  12.  c.  49. 

10  B.  28.  c.  5.  and  7.  b.  32.  c.  11.  >■  Stratag.  b.  6*.  c.  16. 

18  Lexic.  vol.  3.  p.  635.  v.  pfux7oj.  "  Lexic.  p.  343.  v.  <ppv>ilu>puiv. 


288  RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 

was  termed  <ppv%%g,  or  (pgvzjagia,,  or  vvgo-o?,  by  the  Greeks,  and  specula 
by  the  Latins. 

The  traveller  must  here  regret  the  guidance  of  Pausanias,  who 
either  did  not  visit,  or  did  not  describe,  this  part  of  the  coast.  The 
ancient  name  of  Phanari  must  accordingly  remain  in  obscurity. 


TO  PIADA. 

We  continued  our  journey  on  the  23d;  and,  descending  the 
western  side  of  the  mountain,  by  almost  impracticable  roads,  came 
in  ten  minutes  to  a  circular  plain,  cultivated  with  corn  and  vine- 
yards, and  surrounded  by  barren  hills.  In  ten  minutes  more  we 
leached  the  foot  of  a  rock,  on  which  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
acropolis,  with  those  of  the  city  in  the  plain.  Large  blocks  of  stone 
are  dispersed  in  massy  confusion  on  all  sides.  The}'  cover  a  con- 
siderable extent  of  ground.  The  walls  are  in  the  style  of  those  of 
Phanari.  The  plain  here  terminates;  and  we  ascended  some  hills, 
on  which  numerous  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  were  feeding  amongst 
the  bushes.  After  passing  some  arable  land  we  came  to  a  village 
named  Kolaki,  which  is  two  hours  from  Phanari.  We  here  entered 
the  road  from  Trcezen  to  Epidauros.  On  reaching  the  summit  of  an 
eminence  we  looked  down  on  Epidauros,  and  passed  through  the 
ruins  of  that  city,  which  are  three  hours  and  seven  minutes  from 
Phanari. 

Near  the  sea  is  an  ancient  well,  and  a  small  palm  tree,  which  is 
noticed  by  Dr.  Chandler.'     The  village  of  Epidaura,  a  short  way 

1  Travels  in  Greece.      C. 


a. 


© 


0 

4 


VILLAGE  OF  PIADA.  289 

from  the  ancient  city,  was  on  our  left.  We  ascended  some  hills, 
which  are  the  northern  boundaries  of  the  Epidaurian  plain ;  and, 
pursuing  a  narrow  path  through  a  small  forest  of  pines  and  bushes, 
came  to  a  church,  the  door  of  which  is  covered  with  an  ancient  lin- 
tel. Near  the  entrance  of  the  plain  of  Piada,  we  observed  some 
rocks  of  the  most  beautiful  red  jasper,  shining  with  the  brightest 
lustre.  I  broke  off  some  pieces,  and  had  them  polished  at  Rome. 
It  is  of  a  very  hard  quality,  and  not  worth  the  expense  required  in 
working  it.  In  an  hour  and  twenty  eight  minutes  from  Epidaura  we 
arrived  at  Piada,  a  large  and  populous  village,  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  steep  rock,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  with  the  ruins  of 
a  modern  castle.  A  fine  fertile  plain  extends  from  Piada  to  the 
sea.  It  is  thickly  planted  with  large  olive  trees,  and  is  exuberantly 
productive.  I  could  not  discover  the  smallest  traces  of  antiquity  at 
this  place,  though  the  strength  of  its  position,  and  the  advantages 
of  its  territory,  render  it  probable  that  it  was  the  site  of  an  ancient 
city. 

The  rocks  about  Piada  are  covered  with  the  cactus  opuntia,  or 
Indian  fig.  It  is  much  less  common  in  Greece  than  in  Calabria  and 
Sicily,  where  I  have  seen  hedges  of  it  that  are  impenetrable,  and 
form  a  better  defence  than  the  highest  walls  and  the  strongest  fences. 
I  have  seen  the  stem  more  than  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  the  leaves  of 
a  very  large  size.  Neither  man  nor  beast  dares  to  attempt  a  passage 
through  this  formidable  barrier ;  for  the  thin  and  acute  thorn  with 
which  the  plant  is  armed,  as  with  needles,  perforates  the  skin  with 
a  sharp  and  irritating  pain. 

A  Turk,  who  was  a  servant  of  the  bey  of  Corinth,  resides  at  Piada 
as  governor.  He  sent  us  a  present  of  a  lamb  and  some  excellent 
roast  meat ;  for  he  was  enjoying  the  feast  of  Bairam,  after  the  long 
and  rigid  lent  of  Ramazan.  It  was  also  the  custom  anciently  in 
Greece,  to  make  presents  of  provisions  to  travellers ;  and  these  gifts 
of  hospitality  were  denominated  Zuvq'ict,  and  Xenia,  or  Xeniola  as 

VOL.  II.  p  P 


290  GIFTS  OF  HOSPITALITY. 

Apuleius1  relates, "  Et  mittit  mihiByrrhaena  xeniola,porcum  opimum, 
et  quinque  gallinulas,  et  vini  caelum  in  retate  pretiosi ;"  this  he  sup- 
poses happening  in  Thessaly.  These  gifts  of  hospitality  are  also 
noticed  by  Homer : 2 

Auipz  $z  lot  Iweu)  ^styYj'ix  iroAAa  koli  Kr'lha.. 


TO  AGIOS  IOANNES. 

On  the  24th,  we  proceeded  towards  Corinth,  and  on  quitting 
Piada  observed  a  mill  turned  by  a  small  stream.  After  mounting 
some  bleak  and  barren  hills,  and  passing  by  a  church  and  two 
streams  with  a  mill,  we  came  to  a  circular  plain  covered  with  corn, 
and  watered  by  a  rivulet.  The  land  became  stony  and  incapable 
of  cultivation.  We  ascended  some  hills  covered  with  wild  olives, 
loaded  with  small  fruit ;  and,  having  reached  the  summit,  found 
ourselves  on  an  elevated  plain  of  a  long  and  narrow  form,  richly 
cultivated  with  corn,  and  bounded  on  each  side  by  rocky  hills,  low, 
barren,  and  monotonous.  To  our  right  was  a  village  called  Angelo- 
Kastro,  from  the  ruins  of  a  modern  fort,  situated  upon  a  hill  in  its 
vicinity.     This  place  is  two  hours  and  a  half  from  Piada. 

We  descended  to  another  narrow  and  cultivated  plain :  and,  in 
an  hour  and  three  quarters  from  Angelo-Kastro,  arrived  at  the  village 
of  Agios  Ioannes,3  where  we  passed  the  night. 


1  Metamorphos.  b.  2.  p.  46.  14.  Edit.  Delphin.  ■  Batrachom.  v.   16. 

3  Pronounced  Ai  Yanni. 


ENGLISH  TRAVELLERS.  291 


TO  CORINTH. 


On  the  25th,  we  set  out  for  Corinth,  and  traversed  for  an  hour 
the  most  rugged  roads  winding  amongst  barren  hills.  We  next 
prosecuted  our  journey  through  a  deep  ravine,  which  is  sometimes 
rilled  with  impetuous  torrents  from  the  mountains.  In  three  hours 
and  a  half  from  Agios  Ioannes,  we  reached  the  south-east  foot  of  the 
Acrocorinthos ;  and,  crossing  a  small  stream,  in  forty  minutes  more, 
entered  Corinth,  where  the  Turks  were  firing  and  making  merry  for 
the  Iclfitr,  which  is  the  first  feast  of  Bairam,  immediately  after  the 
fast  of  Ramazan. 

We  again  took  up  our  abode  at  the  filthy  khan  ;  and  the  next 
morning  were  agreeably  surprised  by  the  visit  of  two  English  travel- 
lers, who  were  on  their  way  from  Patra  to  Athens.  We  mutually 
interchanged  information  concerning  the  countries  we  were  about  to 
visit;  and  during  the  remainder  of  our  stay  at  Corinth  Ave  had  the 
happiness  of  passing  our  time  in  a  very  satisfactory  and  instructive 
manner  in  the  society  of  these  gentlemen,  and  of  laying  the  founda- 
tion of  a  more  permanent  friendship.  We  again  met  towards  the 
close  of  our  journey,  and  had  hoped  long  and  often  to  have  renewed 
our  intercourse  in  our  native  country ;  but  with  respect  to  one 
of  the  party  this  hope  proved,  alas,  only  a  delusive  dream  !  Mr. 
Mackenzie,  who  was  the  companion  of  Mr.Raikes,  survived  his  return 
to  England  only  a  few  short  years.  He  was  highly  accomplished  and 
truly  amiable.  Those  who  had  the  happiness  of  his  acquaintance, 
and  who  best  knew  his  talents  and  his  worth,  will  never  cease  to 
regret  his  loss  and  to  cherish  his  memory. 


p  p  2 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Departure  from  Corinth — Fertility  of  the  country — Village  of  Basilika — Ruins  of  Sicyon — Theatre 
and  other  remains — Village  of  Xylo-Kastro,  and  ruins  of  an  ancient  city,  probably  iEgira 
— Khan  of  Kamares — Khan  of  Sakratos,  ruins  on  the  way,  and  remains  of  an  ancient  city  at 
Mauro-Petra,  probably  Aigai — River  Sakratas,  the  ancient  Krathis — To  Bostitza — Grandeur 
of  the  scenery — River  Bourai'kos — River  Selinos — Ruins  of  iEgion — Great  platanus  and 
spring — To  Patra — The  rivers  Phoenix  and  Meganitas — Magnificent  view  of  the  gulf — 
From  Patra  to  the  khan  of  Palaio-Achaia — River  Kamenitza,  the  ancient  Peiros — Uncer- 
tain situations  of  Olenos,  Pharai,  and  Dyme — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city  near  the  khan — To 
Mauro  Bouna — Ruins  of  a  castle,  probably  Teichos — Cape  Papa,  anciently  Araxos — From 
Mauro  Bouna  to  Capelletto — To  Palaiopoli,  Elis — River  Peneios — Ruins  of  Elis — Acropolis 
— To  Pyrgo — To  Phloka — The  Alpheios — To  the  ruins  of  Olympia — The  Kladeos  and 
Alpheios— Plain  of  Olympia;  beauty  of  the  scenery — Hill  of  Saturn — Temple  of  Jupiter 
Olympios — Ancient  Armour — Village  of  Miraka — Description  of  a  Turkish  pyrgos — 
Earthquake. 

TO  BASILIKA.— SICYON. 

W  E  were  miserably  lodged  at  Corinth.  Some  of  the  inmates  of 
the  khan,  particularly  a  Turk  who  waited  on  us,  had  only  lately  re- 
covered from  the  plague;  and,  though  in  a  convalescent  state,  was 
so  emaciated,  and  exhibited  such  a  death-like  aspect,  that  his  imme- 
diate presence  excited  apprehensions  of  insecurity.  My  artist  too, 
Sig.  Pomardi,  who  was  unwell,  was  desirous  of  getting  into  better 
quarters,  and  of  resting  for  awhile  after  the  fatigue  of  his  journey. 
All  these  considerations  impelled  us  to  quit  Corinth  sooner  than  we 
had  otherwise  intended,  as  we  had  not  examined  the  isthmus  in 
.sufficient  detail. 

We  accordingly  set  out  for  Sicyon,  on  the  3d  of  January,  1806. 
Our  way  led  through  extensive  olive-groves,  which  are  thickly 
planted  ;  but  the  trees  are  not  so  large  and  thriving  as  those  of 


ROAD  BETWEEN  CORINTH  AND  SICYON.  293 

Athens,  which  stand  further  apart  and  have  more  room  for  their 
roots,  and  a  freer  circulation  of  air  for  their  branches.  Statius  ■ 
notices  the  olive-groves  of  Sicyon,  and  Livy2  praises  the  fertility  of 
the  soil  between  that  place  and  Corinth,  which  was  indeed  pro- 
verbial^ It  is  composed  of  a  white  argillaceous  earth,  which  is  ex- 
tremely slippery  after  rain,  and  our  baggage  horses  were  continually 
falling.  The  gulf  of  Corinth  and  the  port  of  Lecheion  were  on  our 
right,  and  some  low  hills  stretching  out  from  Sicyon  to  the  Acro- 
corinthos  were  on  the  left.  We  crossed  two  streams,  and  soon  after 
two  others  of  a  more  respectable  size.  The  former  were  probably 
only  fortuitous  torrents,  which  the  late  rains  had  occasioned. 

The  Corinthian  and  Sicyonian  territories  were  separated  by  a 
river  called  Nemea,  which  is  mentioned  by  Livy4  and  Strabo;5 
Pausanias6  merely  notices  the  Asopos  between  those  towns.  The 
geographer  mentions  the  Asopos7  and  the  Cephissos8  as  being  near 
Sicyon ;  and  a  river  and  village,9  called  Orneai,  in  the  same  space. 
The  extraordinary  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  commodiousness  of 
the  situation,  have  attracted  a  numerous  population,  and  our  road 
between  Corinth  and  Sicyon  passed  near  fifteen  villages,  but  I  ob- 
served some  vestiges  of  antiquity  only  in  one  place,  and  these  con- 
sisted of  blocks  and  foundations.  The  objects  which  Pausanias10 
mentions  on  this  road,  are,  the  monument11  of  Lykos,  which  was  a 
tumulus,12  and  the  Olympion,  beyond  the  Asopos;  the  tomb"  of 
Eupolis,  the  Athenian  comedian;  the  monument"  of  Xenodice, 
and  a  monument15  raised  for  those  who  had  been  killed  in  war. 

In  two  hours  and  fifty-five  minutes  we  arrived  at  the  village  of 


1  Theb.  4.  v.  50.     Qui  Drepani  scopulos,  et  oliviferas  Sicvonis.  2  B.  27.  c.  31. 

3  See  Libanius  Sophist.  Epist.  374.  and  754.  *  B.  33.  c.  15. 

5  B.  8.  p.  382.  6  B.  2.  c.  7.  7  Loc.  cit.  8  B.  9.  p.  424. 

9  B.  S.  p.  376.  382.  XWJM.1J.  '°  B.  2.  c.  5.  7.  "  f^v^a. 


294  RUINS  OF  SICYON. 

Basilika,1  situated  on  the  ruins  of  Sicjon.  This  celebrated  city, 
which  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  232  years  before  Argos,  and 
2089  years  before  Christ,  was  at  different  times  denominated  iEgia- 
leus,2  Mekon,3  or  Mekone,  Telekinia,4  new  Sicyon,5  and  Deme- 
trias. 6  When  Sicyon  was  taken  by  Demetrius  Poliorcetes,  he  com- 
pelled the  inhabitants  to  abandon  the  lower  town,  which  extended 
towards  the  sea,  and  to  take  up  their  abode  in  the  acropolis,  which 
was  large,  strong,  and  well  supplied  with  water.  It  was  on  this 
occasion  that  its  name  was  changed  to  Demetrias.7  Before  this 
period  it  had  been  sufficiently  strong  to  resist  the  attacks  of  the 
Athenian  army  under  Pericles,  and  it  sent  a  contingent  of  3000 
troops  to  the  battle  of  Plateea,8  and  fifteen  ships  to  the  battle  of 
Salamis.9 

Sicyon  was  the  school  of  the  most  celebrated  artists  of  antiquity, 
and  was  sumptuously  decorated  with  temples  and  statues.  Pausa- 
nias10  enumerates  seventeen  temples,"  a  theatre,  two  gymnasia,  an 
agora,  a  portico,"  a  senate  house,1'  a  temenos  for  the  Roman  em- 
perors, with  many  altars,  monuments,  and  numerous  statues  of 
ivory  and  gold,  of  marble,  of  bronze,  and  of  wood. 

The  ruins  of  Sicyon  still  retain  some  vestiges  of  ancient  magni- 
licence.  Amongst  these  a  fine  theatre,  which  is  situated  at  the 
north-east  foot  of  the  acropolis,  has  preserved  the  koilon  or  seats  in 
a  very  perfect  state.  Near  it  are  some  large  masses  of  Roman 
brick  walls,  and  in  the  same  vicinity  the  remains  of  the  gymnasium, 
supported  b}'  strong  walls  of  polygonal  construction.  Several  dilapi- 
dated churches,  which  are  composed  of  ancient  fragments,  probably 

1  fia<n\ix7)  signifies  a  royal  palace.  This  is  the  name  given  to  Sicyon  by  some  of  the 
Byzantine  historians. 

!  Strabo,  b.  3-  p.  382.   Pausan.  b.  2.  c.  7.  Eustath.  in  Homer,  p.  291.  22.  and  p.  1302.  19. 

3  Strabo,  loc.  cit.     Stephan.  de  Urbib.  p.  669.     Eustath.  loc.  cit.  Myxwy. 

4  Stephan.  and  Eustath.  loc.  cit.  5  Nsa  Sikuojv.     Antonine  Itin. 

6  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  20.  c.  102.  and  Plutarch,  Life  of  Demetrius. 
7Diodor.  Sic.  loc.cit.       8  Herodot.b.  9.c.  28.       » Id.  b.  8.  c.  43.         10B.  2.  c.  7,8,9,  10,  11. 
Eleven  upx,  five  vxoi,  one  tixr^a,.  "  27oa.  'a  flwXcvlvjpiov. 


RUINS  OF  SICYON.  295 

occupy  the  site  of  the  temples.  Several  fragments  of  the  Doric 
order  are  observable  amongst  them,  particularly  tri glyphs  and 
metopae  of  curious  forms,  but  generally  of  small  proportions.  Here 
are  also  some  inscriptions,  but  I  saw  none  containing  the  name  of 
the  city.     The  following  is  in  the  wall  of  a  church  below  the  village. 

nOATKPATEIAK 
nOATKPATEIAN 
0TrAT£PA0EO 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  ruins,  facing  Corinth,  there  are  two 
copious  springs,  and  a  subterraneous  passage  cut  in  a  steep  preci- 
pice. This  must  be  the  fountain  called  Stazousa  by  Pausanias,1 
which  was  near  the  gate  of  Sicyon  that  faced  Corinth.  He  sajrs 
that  the  water  did  not  issue  from  under  ground,  but  dropped 
from  the  roof  of  the  cave.  This  distinctive  circumstance  has  dis- 
appeared. 

Above  this  spot  are  the  ruins  of  some  strong  modern  walls,  which 
were  probably  built  by  the  Venetians,  as  it  was  a  place  of  strength 
in  their  time ;  the  castle  was  considered  an  important  post,  and  was 
garrisoned  by  the  Turks  in  1654.2 

After  the  destruction  of  Corinth  by  the  Romans,  Sicyon  became 
possessed  of  the  greater  part  of  the  Corinthian  territory.  *  Sicyon 
was  reduced  to  great  distress  in  the  time  of  Pausanias,  who  informs 
us  that  it  had  been  destroyed  by  an  earthquake.  Many  valuable 
remains  of  sculpture  might  no  doubt  be  discovered  by  excavating 
among  the  ruins,  considering  the  numerous  productions  of  its  cele- 
brated artists,  and  the  great  perfection  to  which  painting  and 
sculpture  had  here  arrived  at  a  very  early  period.  I  was  surprised 
to  find,  that  amongst  the  great  number  of  silver  and  copper  coins 
which  I  procured  at  this  place,  there  was  not  one  of  fine  execution. 
The  same  remark  may  be  made  of  Athens,  where,  at  the  time  in 


B.  2.  c.  7.  2  Du  Loir  Voyage  du  Levant.  3  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  581. 


296  RUINS  OF  SICYON. 

which  the  fine  arts  had  attained  the  highest  pitch  of  excellence 
and  perfection,  their  coinage  was  of  the  most  negligent  and  inele- 
gant kind.  The  same  was  the  case  with  Corinth  and  Argos,  of 
which  cities  very  few  coins  of  fine  style  have  been  found.  On 
the  other  hand,  Epiros,  Acarnania,  the  Locri  Opuntii,  and  several 
places  in  Arcadia,  as  Basilis,  Stymphalos,  and  Pheneos,  which 
appear  never  to  have  been  particularly  famed  for  the  knowledge  of 
the  fine  arts,  produced  medals  of  the  grandest  style,  and  in  the  most 
refined  taste.  The  principal  s«^«  of  Sicyon,  and  that  which  is 
generally  seen  on  the  coins  of  that  place,  was  the  dove.  The  chi- 
moera  is  also  very  frequently  represented  upon  the  money  of  Sicyon. 
Some  pieces  have  the  head  of  Apollo,  allusive  to  the  particular 
worship  which  was  there  paid  to  that  divinity.  The  lion,  the  dol- 
phin, the  tripod,  and  caduceus,  are  also  seen  upon  their  coins. 

The  soil,  Avhich  is  of  a  white  colour,  between  Corinth  and  Sicyon, 
assumes  a  dark  hue  near  the  latter  place.  It  is  extremely  fertile ; 
but  the  village  of  Basilika  is  small  and  miserable.  Its  inhabitants 
are  Greeks,  who  are  the  most  obliging  people  I  have  met  with, 
but  they  are  merged  in  the  lowest  depths  of  ignorance.  They 
thought  me  perfectly  mad  for  purchasing  their  antiquities,  and 
seemed  to  pity  my  folly.  After  they  had  sold  me  all  their  coins, 
they  went  into  the  fields  to  pick  up  cows  horns,  horses  hoofs,  and 
bits  of  bone,  which  they  offered  to  me  as  antiques. 

From  Sicyon  I  took  a  general  view,  comprising  the  gulf,  with  the 
opposite  coast  of  Phocis  and  Bceotia ;  from  which  the  mountains 
of  Kirphis,  Parnassos,  Helicon,  and  Cithseron,  rise  in  conspicuous 
majesty.  The  isthmus  also,  and  the  Acrocorinthos,  are  clearly 
distinguished.  It  would  appear  as  if  Plutarch  had  never  been  at 
Sicyon,  and  did  not  reflect  how  near  it  is  to  Corinth;  for  he  men- 
tions, as  a  wonderful  circumstance,  that,  when  the  Sicyonians  set 
fire  to  their  tyrant's  palace,  the  conflagration  was  so  vast,  that  it 
was  visible  from  Corinth.'     These  two   places,  however,  are  not 

1  Life  of  Aratos. 


RUINS  OF  SICYON.  5297 

more  than  eight  miles  from  each  other  in  a  straight  line.1  We 
remained  too  short  a  time  at  Sicyon  to  examine  its  remains  with 
the  accuracy  and  attention  which  so  interesting  a  place  required; 
but  Signor  Pomardi,  who  had  caught  a  fever  at  Corinth,  was  now 
reduced  to  so  great  a  state  of  debility,  that  we  were  anxious  to  avoid 
all  delay  in  reaching  Patra,  where  he  might  repose  himself  in  the 
comfortable  house  of  our  consul,  Mr.  Strani. 


TO  KAMARES. 


We  accordingly  pursued  our  journey  on  the  oth,  and,  descending 
into  the  plain,  had  the  gulf  on  our  right,  and  a  village  named 
Moulchi  on  our  left. 

In  half  an  hour  we  crossed  a  small  river,  perhaps  the  Selleis,  men- 
tioned by  Strabo ;-  which,  descending  from  the  hills,  enters  the  gulf 
near  a  round  elevation,  resembling  a  tumulus.  A  short  way  further 
a  ruined  church  was  visible  on  the  left,  and  two  villages  on  the 
right,  near  the  sea.  We  crossed  a  stream  near  a  church,  and  fifty- 
three  minutes  from  Sicyon  came  to  some  blocks  and  vestiges,  and 
an  ancient  fountain.  A  village  was  seen  on  the  right,  with  some 
vineyards  about  it.  We  crossed  a  rivulet,  and  found  the  plain  nar- 
rowed by  the  proximity  of  the  hills ;  the  road  lay  within  a  hundred 
yards  of  the  gulf.  We  passed  some  ancient  traces,  and,  in  an  hour 
and  a  half  from  Sicyon,  observed  the  remains  of  a  wall  that  had 
once  united  the  hill  to  the  sea,  and  was  constructed  for  the  purpose 


Bearings  from  Sicyon.     Highest  point  of  Acrocorinthos  S.  38  E.     Parnassos  N. 

•  B.  8.  p.  338. — SeAAijsij. 

VOL.   II.  Q  Q 


298  RUINS  OF  yEGIRA. 

of  guarding  the  pass.  Perhaps  it  formerly  constituted  the  separa- 
tion between  the  Pellenian,  or  the  iEgiratan,  and  Sicyonian  terri- 
tories. It  Mould  appear  from  Herodotus,1  that  Pellene  was  between 
Sicyon  and  iEgira;  but  Pausanias2  asserts  that  it  was  between 
Sicj'on  and  Argolis,  on  the  opposite  side,  and  contiguous  to  the  ter- 
ritories of  Sicyon  and  iEgira.  Between  the  two  last  mentioned  cities 
it  had  some  land  reaching  to  the  gulf,  from  which  it  derived  the 
convenience  of  a  port.  The  topographical  account  of  Strabo,5  re- 
specting Pellene,  coincides  with  that  of  Herodotus ;  and,  if  Pausanias 
is  right,  it  must  have  extended  behind  Sicyonia,  in  order  to  be  con- 
tiguous to  Argolis ;  for  he  acknowledges  that  it  was  also  contiguous 
to  iEgira.  We  are  informed  by  Strabo,4  that  Pellene  was  sixty 
stadia  from  the  sea,  and  that  it  had  a  strong  castle.  Pausanias  says 
it  was  sixty  stadia  from  the  port  of  iEgira,  that  the  port  of  Pellene 
was  named  Aristonautai,  and  that  the  town  was  situated  on  a  high 
pointed  hill.  By  these  indications,  its  ruins  might  probably  be  dis- 
covered. 

We  soon  after  observed  several  other  imperfect  vestiges,  and 
reached  a  narrow  and  difficult  pass,  where  the  plain  contracts  to 
the  breadth  of  only  twenty  yards,  with  the  gulf  on  the  right  hand, 
and  wooded  precipices  on  the  left.  We  then  entered  upon  an  ex- 
panded vale ;  part  of  which  is  in  an  uncultivated  state,  and  covered 
with  bushes,  while  part  is  enriched  with  vineyards  and  corn  land. 
A  village  was  observed  to  the  right,  intermingled  with  scattered 
olive-trees.  After  crossing  a  river,  we  saw  a  village,  called  Xylo- 
Kastro,  on  the  foot  of  a  hill  to  the  left,  the  summit  of  which  is 
crowned  with  the  imperfect  remains  of  an  ancient  acropolis.  This, 
probably,  indicates  the  position  of  iEgira;  and  the  description 
which  Poly bi us5  has  left  of  the  situation  of  that  town  corresponds 
exactly  with  that  of  Xylo-Kastro.  He  says  that  it  stands  near  some 
abrupt  and  broken  hills,  seven  stadia  from  the  sea,  and  opposite  to 

»  B.  I.e.  1*5.  eB.  7.  c.  26.  3B.  8.  p.  3S5.  4  B.  8.  p.  386. 

s  B.  4.  p.  322. 


RUINS  OF  jEGIRA.  299 

Parnassos.  Its  acropolis  was,  at  one  time,  without  walls,  and  it  was 
surprised  by  aniEtolian  army,  headed  by  Doriraachos,Avho  were,  how- 
ever, soon  expelled  from  their  recent  conquest.1  Pausanias  asserts, 
that  iEgira  was  twelve  stadia  from  its  port,  and  that  its  Homeric 
name  was  Hyperesia:'  in  the  time  of  the  topographer  it  possessed 
five  temples,3  and  several  statues. 

On  quitting  this  place,  we  crossed  two  dry  water-courses ;  which, 
after  heavy  rains,  are  filled  with  impetuous  streams  from  the  neigh- 
bouring mountains,  and  particularly  from  the  vicinity  of  the  ancient 
Phelloe,  which  was  forty  stadia  from  VEgira,  and  abounded  in  water.4 
We  observed  a  wooden  cross  erected  upon  the  bank  of  one  of  the 
torrents.  The  Greeks,  as  well  as  the  Italians,  are  in  the  habit  of 
erecting  a  cross  upon  the  spot  where  a  Christian  has  suffered  a 
violent  death.  We  passed  over  some  vestiges  of  Roman  construction, 
and  arrived  at  a  khan  called  Kamares,  which  is  four  hours  from  the 
ruins  of  Sicyon.  The  country  we  had  passed  was  pre-eminently 
beautiful.  It  exhibited  an  attractive  variety  of  hill  and  dale.  The 
hills  had  been  shattered  by  earthquakes  into  the  most  picturesque 
forms,  and  they  were  luxuriantly  mantled  with  wood ;  principally 
the  evergreen  oak.  To  the  right  we  were  frequently  gratified  by 
luminous  glances  of  the  gulf,  from  the  opposite  coast  of  which  were 
seen  rising  the  grand  mountains  of  Locris,  Phocis,  and  Bceotia; 
amongst  which  the  most  conspicuous  were  Kriphis,  Parnassos, 
Helicon,  and  Cithaeron. 

The  khan  stands  at  the  foot  of  a  pointed  acclivity,  near  which  is 
a  small  marsh,  and  a  spring  of  good  water.  It  has  taken  the  name 
of  Kamares,5  from  the  remains  of  some  small  Roman  arches  which 
are  in  its  vicinity,  and  which  appear  to  have  belonged  to  an  aque- 
duct. 


Ibid.  *  Ttfspijma.  3  Three  ispa,  a  van;,  and  an  o<xijft.«. 

4  Pausan.  b.  "J.  c.  26.  5  From  Ka.fj.apa.  or  Kapapiov. 

Q  Q  2 


300  SEPULCHRAL  MONUMENT. 


TO  THE  KHAN  OF  SAKRATAS. 

On  the  6th  we  pursued  our  journey,  and  in  a  few  minutes  observed 
a  village  on  our  right,  and  passed  by  the  remains  of  an  aqueduct, 
consisting  of  a  few  small  arches,  composed  of  the  Roman  reticulatum 
incertum. 

Having  crossed  two  rivulets,  we  came  to  an  ancient  monument, 
situated  in  a  corn-field,  about  a  hundred  yards  to  the  left  of  the 
road,  and  one  hour  and  fifty  minutes  from  the  khan  of  Kamares ; 
this  ruin  is  nearly  of  a  square  form,  and  constructed  with  fine  blocks 
of  stone,  nine  layers  of  which  are  still  remaining.  On  the  top  of  the 
ruin  is  observed  the  fragment  of  a  bas-relief,  in  white  marble:  the 
only  part  which  is  left  consists  of  two  naked  feet,  sculptured  in 
the  most  beautiful  style.  The  proximity  of  the  sea,  which  would 
facilitate  the  transportation  of  any  weighty  object,  and  the  remote- 
ness of  the  locality,  which  Avould  diminish  the  probabilities  of  any 
obstruction  to  the  labours  of  excavation,  are  strong  inducements 
with  me  to  recommend  this  undertaking  to  future  travellers.  1 
regret  that  my  want  of  time  would  not  allow  me  to  avail  myself  of 
the  opportunity.  This  is  probably  the  monument  which  Pausanias' 
says  was  on  the  right  of  the  road,  between  the  river  Krathis  and 
iEgira,  on  which  there  was  an  equestrian  figure  nearly  effaced.2 

After  we  had  made  drawings  of  this  picturesque  spot,  we  pro- 
ceeded, and  passed  by  some  deserted  cottages,  and  through  some 
vineyards,  olive-groves,  and  corn-fields,  extending  from  the  sea  to 
the  foot  of  the  wooded  mountains.     We  forded  a  shallow  stream, 


'  B.  1.  c.  25.     In  the  space  of  three  lines  he  terms  this  monument  <njju.a,  <J-ywa,  nnd  'lx<?°l> 
a  proof  that  these  words  were  sometimes  synonymous 
'  apvSpav  yfa<p>jv ;  perhaps  it  was  a  painted  statue. 


RUINS  OF  AIGAI.  301 

flowing  in  a  broad  channel,  which  is  two  hours  and  a  half  from  the 
khan  we  had  quitted  in  the  morning,  and  eighteen  minutes  more 
brought  us  to  the  remains  of  a  monument,  consisting  of  a  square 
foundation  of  small  stones  and  mortar,  while  the  superstructure  is 
composed  of  large  blocks.  Of  this  mode  of  construction  I  recollect 
no  other  example  in  Greece,  though  it  is  frequent  in  Itaby.  The 
monument  in  question  is  therefore  probably  Roman.  Twenty-six 
minutes  further,  a  small  cape  projects  into  the  gulf,  and  is  covered 
with  pines  and  bushes,  amongst  which  are  observed  a  few  blocks  of 
stone  and  some  ancient  vestiges.  We  afterwards  crossed  a  divided 
river,  flowing  in  two  streams  in  an  extensive  channel.  We  passed 
near  a  few  cottages,  and  through  some  vineyards,  olive-groves,  and 
arable  land,  and  approached  a  place  called  Mauro-Petra,'  situated 
at  the  entrance  of  a  narrow  pass  which  has  long  been  the  favourite 
resort  of  banditti. 

A  hill  on  the  left  is  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  a  palaio-kastro,  the 
situation  of  which  corresponds  to  that  of  Aigai,  which  was  known  as 
a  city  in  a  very  remote  period,  but  was  deserted  as  early  as  the 
time  of  Strabo2  and  Pausanias.5  Of  its  walls  there  are  very  few  re- 
mains, as  they  have  been  destroyed  by  the  neighbouring  villagers  for 
the  purpose  of  constructing  their  cottages  with  the  stones. 

The  foundation  of  Aigai  is  thrown  so  far  backward  into  the  abyss 
of  time  as  to  be  unknown,  but  it  is  frequently  mentioned  by 
Homer.* 

Forty  minutes  further  we  crossed  a  bridge  of  seven  arches,  over  a 
rapid  river  called  Sakratas,  or  Akrata,  which  is  shallow,  and  occupies 
a  broad  channel.  The  hasty  current  traverses  an  agricultural  plain, 
and  then  enters  the  gulf.  It  rises  at  a  village  called  Zaroukla, 
situated  in  a  mountainous  region  of  Arcadia,  eight  hours  from  this 
place,  and  passes  through  a  village  named  Kolchines.  This  river  is 
probably  the  Krathis,  which,  according  to  Pausanias,  entered  the 


Black  rock.  *  B.  S.  p.  3S6.  He  says  it  was  called  Aiya  as  well  as  Aiyai. 

3  B.  8.c.  15.  <  Iliad,  8.  v.  203.  and  13.  v.  21.  Odyss.  5.  v.  381. 


302  MAGNIFICENT  SCENERY. 

sea  near  Aigai,  and  had  its  source  at  a  mountain  of  the  same 
name ;  the  mountain  of  Zaroukla  is  mount  Krathis. 

Having  crossed  the  bridge,  we  passed  the  night  at  the  khan 
■which  is  on  its  banks,  and  which  is  denominated  Sakratas  from  the 
neighbouring  river,  which  name  is  a  corruption  for  Krathis. 


TO  BOSTITZA,  ^GION. 

We  quitted  the  khan  the  next  morning,  the  7th,  and  passed  a 
stream  which  is  conveyed  by  an  artificial  channel  from  the  river 
Krathis  in  order  to  turn  a  corn-mill. 

The  plain,  which  is  richly  cultivated  and  fertile,  abounds  in  vine- 
yards and  currant  plantations. 

After  we  had  proceeded  a  considerable  way  over  this  vale,  we 
found  it  contract.  The  mountains  which  rose  close  to  the  sea  were 
covered  with  evergreens  and  shrubs;  the  mild  serenity  of  the  at- 
mosphere spread  around  the  agreeable  similitude  of  an  English 
summer.  After  this  pass  the  vale  again  expanded,  and  as  the 
mountains  alternately  receded  or  approached,  their  frequent  changes 
produced  a  great  variety  in  the  scenery.  We  stopped  here  some 
time  to  sketch  the  grand  outline  of  the  Achaian  mountains,  with 
the  coast  of  Locris,  and  Phocis,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
gulf.  We  forded  a  river,  and  having  crossed  over  an  eminence, 
came  to  an  olive  plain,  and  left  a  low  cape  to  the  right  pro- 
jecting into  the  sea.  We  crossed  a  bridge  of  one  arch  over  a  rapid 
river  that  was  swollen  by  the  late  rains,  and  branched  into  many 
streams  which  were  passed  with  difficulty.  The  banks  were  shaded 
by  impending  trees,  or  obstructed  by  almost  impenetrable  bushes, 


e 


GLEN  OF  THE  BOURAIKOS.  303 

which  made  our  horses  fall,  and  lacerated  our  clothes  and  hands. 
We  were  however  fully  recompensed  by  the  singular  beauty  and 
impressive  grandeur  of  the  scenery.  Precipices  of  stupendous 
height  shattered  into  irregular  forms,  and  crowned  with  oaks  and 
pines,  rose  on  either  side  the  glen  from  which  the  river  issued.  No 
part  of  Achaia  abounds  so  much  as  this  in  enchanting  localities  and 
picturesque  wilds.  The  concussions  of  earthquakes  to  which  this 
coast  has  always  been  subject,  and  from  which  it  is  not  yet  free, 
have  tossed  the  surface  into  a  multiplicity  of  forms  with  deep  dells 
and  craggy  steeps,  yawning  ravines,  and  cloud-capt  precipices ! 

The  river  is  the  Bouraikos  that  flowed  near  the  town  of  Boura, 
formerly  destroyed  by  the  same  earthquake  by  which  the  city  of 
Helice '  was  overthrown.  This  river  passes  through  the  glen  of  Me- 
gaspelia,  in  Arcadia,  where  it  is  called  Tola^og  rm  KuXu€gv]a>»,°  from  its 
vicinity  to  the  town  of  Kalabryta. 

We  passed  near  a  water-mill,  and  on  a  wooded  hill  to  the  left 
saw  a  metochi  or  farm  belonging  to  the  monastery  of  Megaspelia. 
Our  road  led  us  through  some  extensive  fields  of  Indian  corn,  which 
is  not  near  so  common  in  Greece  as  in  Italy,  where  it  is  of  great 
benefit  to  the  poor,  and  is  known  by  the  name  of  gran  Turco,  as  it 
is  in  Greece  by  that  of  ugctQo  2<7/,3  or  "  Arabian  corn."  The  bread 
which  is  made  from  the  meal  is  nutritious,  but  rather  heavy ;  it  also 
serves  for  the  polenta,  Avhich  is  a  favourite  dish  of  the  poorer  class  of 
Italians. 

We  forded  a  river  in  a  wider  part  of  the  plain ;  passed  by  a  tumulus 
of  earth,  and  crossed  two  rivers  winch  are  furnished  with  wooden 
bridges,  the  second  of  which  has  nine  arches,  and  the  stream  which 
flows  under  it,  though  shallow,  has  a  broad  bed  where  a  rolling 
flood  is  sometimes  seen.  This  is  the  river  Selinos  mentioned  by 
Strabo4  and  Pausanias.5    We  passed  another  stream  over  a  samll 


1  Boura  and  Helice  were  destroyed  about  37£  years  B.  C.     See  Pausan.  b.  7.  c.  25. 
EXixij. 

8  The  river  of  Kalabryta,        3  From  2i7;ov.        ♦  B.  8.  c.  387.        *  B.  7.  c.  24. 


304  RUINS  OF  ^GION. 

bridge.  In  the  summer  most  of  these  rivers  are  nearly  dry.  They 
are  swollen  in  winter  by  the  rains,  and  the  melting  of  the  snow  on 
the  Achaian  and  Arcadian  mountains.  Numerous  torrents  are  then 
formed,  which  rush  with  turbulent  violence  from  their  sinuous  <dens 
into  the  Corinthian  gulf. 

Our  route  must  have  led  us  near  the  sites  of  Keruneia  and  Helice, 
but  of  which  no  vestiges  are  found.  We  did  not  reach  Bostitza, 
the  ancient  iEgion,  till  the  evening,  as  our  progress  had  been  con- 
siderably impeded  by  the  bad  state  of  the  roads.  The  distance 
from  the  khan  of  Sakratas  is  only  five  hours. 

This  city,  which  was  one  of  the  most  celebrated  in  Greece,  and  in 
which  the  Achaian  confederacy  held  the  general  councils  of  the 
states,  and  which  in  the  second  century  still  possessed  fifteen 
temples,1  a  theatre,  a  portico,  an  agora,  and  numerous  statues,  is 
now  reduced  to  a  large  village,  where  the  Greeks  form  the  majority 
of  the  population.  The  Turks  have  only  one  mosque.  Bostitza 
stands  in  a  fertile  plain  a  little  elevated  above  the  sea,  and  its 
vicinity  is  enriched  with  gardens,  large  olive  trees,  extensive  vine- 
yards which  produce  good  wine,  and  currant  plantations,  besides 
corn,  cotton,  tobacco,  and  Indian  corn.  On  the  opposite  coast  of 
the  gulf  are  seen  the  varied  and  mountainous  shores  of  Locris, 
Phocis,  and  Bceotia,  as  far  up  as  the  Corinthian  isthmus.  On  the 
west  rises  the  grand  and  picturesque  chain  of  Panachaikos,  which, 
beginning  at  Patra,  is  formed  into  two  principal  branches,  one  of 
which  stretches  along  the  western  side  of  the  gulf  as  far  as  Sicyon, 
uniting  with  a  branch  of  the  lofty  Cyllene.  The  other  ramification 
runs  out  towards  the  territory  of  Elis,  thus  inclosing  one  of  the 
angles  of  Arcadia,  and  separating  it  from  the  plains  of  Achaia. 

iEgion  is  mentioned  by  Homer  *  as  having  supplied  vessels  for  the 
Trojan  war.  Indeed  all  the  towns  of  this  coast  seem  to  have  attained 
a  considerable  degree  of  maritime  power  at  a  very  early  period,  as 


i 


Nine  ispa,  two  vaoi,  two lepivoi,  one  o.Krt\oc,  one  a.k<ro;,  Pausan.  '  Iliad,  2.  v.  571. 


RUINS  OF  REGION.  305 

amongst  other  places  which  furnished  vessels,  the  poet  enumerates 
the  cities  of  Sicyon,  Hyperesia,  Gonoessa,  Pellene,  and  Helice. 

iEgion  has  preserved  scarcely  any  vestiges  of  its  sacred  and 
public  edifices,  the  destruction  of  which  was  probably  occasioned 
more  by  the  violent  convulsions  of  nature  than  by  the  slow  effects 
of  time.  The  whole  coast  has  always  been  subject  to  earthquakes 
of  a  most  tremendous  kind.  Besides  those  which  have  been  re- 
corded by  ancient  authors,  several  other  instances  are  mentioned 
by  the  Byzantine  historians  as  having  happened  in  the  middle  ages. 
Some  years  after  my  departure  from  Greece,  the  greater  part  of  the 
town  of  Bostitza  was  destroyed  by  a  similar  catastrophe,  and  a  cape 
in  its  vicinity,  like  the  city  of  Helice,  was  ingulfed  in  the  sea,  and 
has  totally  disappeared. 

Jupiter  and  Diana  are  represented  on  the  coins  of  iEgion ;  and 
we  know  from  Pausanias,  that  those  deities  had  temples  in  that  city, 
and  were  objects  of  particular  veneration. 


TO  PATRA. 


On  the  8th  we  set  out  for  Patra,  and  in  a  few  minutes  came  to 
the  great  plane-tree,  that  grows  near  the  margin  of  the  sea.  Its 
trunk  is  thirty-eight  feet  in  girth ;  and  its  venerable  branches  form 
a  spacious  arbour  of  dense  shade,  through  the  chequered  interstices 
of  which  the  eye  glances  upon  the  majestic  outlines  of  Kirphis  and 
Parnassos.  A  copious  spring  of  excellent  water  issues  from  the 
ground  near  its  roots,  and,  after  a  rippling  course  of  a  few  yards, 
enters  the  gulf.  This  is  the  fountain  mentioned  by  Pausanias,  which 
he  says  was  near  the  sea.     The  same  vicinity  was  once  embellished 

VOL.  II.  R  R 


306  A  DERBENI  AND  CASCADE. 

by  the  temples  of  Ceres  Panachaia,  and  of  Health,1  of  which  some 
remains  seem  to  be  indicated  in  several  large  blocks  of  stone,  and 
a  cornice  of  dark-coloured  marble.  In  half  an  hour  we  forded  a 
river,  perhaps  the  Phoenix,  or  the  Meganitas,  both  of  which,  accord- 
ing to  Pausanias,2  were  in  this  direction,  and  not  far  from  iEgion. 

In  the  course  of  an  hour  and  a  half  from  Bostitza  we  crossed  three 
other  streams,  one  of  which  is  furnished  with  a  bridge:  a  tumulus  of 
earth  was  here  observed  to  our  left. 

We  forded  a  river,  at  present  called  Soria,  which  rises  near  the 
village  of  Zeria,  high  up  the  mountains ;  this  may  be  the  Meganitas. 
After  crossing  another  stream  we  arrived  at  a  narrow  pass,  where 
the  mountains  approach  the  sea,  and  where  there  is  a  derbeni,  or 
custom-house,  guarded  by  some  dirty  Albanians,  who  were  civil, 
but  demanded  bacschish,  which  signifies  a  free  gift,  answering  to  the 
mancia,  or  baona  mano  of  the  Italians. 

In  two  hours  and  twenty-four  minutes  from  Bostitza,  we  came  in 
view  of  a  turn  of  the  gulf  which  bends  towards  the  west,  and  we 
saw  Naupaktos  and  Ozolaea  Locris  on  the  opposite  side :  we  soon 
after  passed  a  dry  fountain.  We  were  surprised  to  find  how  many 
of  the  ancient  Grecian  fountains  have  ceased  to  flow.  This  cir- 
cumstance may  have  been  occasioned  by  the  frequency  of  earth- 
quakes, by  which  they  have  been  exhausted,  or  their  courses  changed. 
Many  rivers  and  fountains  are  at  present  dry  and  still,  and  only  flow 
and  murmur  in  the  classic  page. 

About  three  hours  and  forty-four  minutes  from  Bostitza,  we  crossed 
a  stream  falling  from  the  mountains  which  rise  to  the  left,  and  which 
forms  a  high  but  thin  cascade,  called  Balto-Koriipko  :  it  was  visible 
to  us  the  year  before  when  we  were  sailing  up  the  gulf  from  Patra 
to  Galaxidi.  The  mountains  rise  abruptly  from  the  sea,  and  are 
covered  with  wood,  principally  firs,  which  are  not  wanting  in  elegance 
of  form,  or  in  density  of  shade. 

•  2wV«.  '  B.  7.  c.  23. 


BEAUTIFUL  VIEW  OF  THE  GULF.  307 

Having  crossed  a  river  about  an  hour  from  Balto  Koriipho,  we 
ascended  an  eminence,  in  order  to  take  a  view  of  the  gulf  in  its 
direction  towards  the  entrance.  This  view,  in  addition  to  the  ani- 
mating recollections  of  classical  interest,  displays  great  magnificence 
in  the  combination  of  its  lines  and  exquisite  harmony  in  the  assem- 
blage of  its  tints.  We  looked  down  upon  the  entrance  of  the  gulf 
which  is  between  the  promontories  of  Rhion  and  Antirrhion,  on 
which  are  respectively  situated  the  castles  of  Morea  and  Romelia. 
The  former  bears  N.  88°  W. ;  the  latter  N.  70°  W. ;  and  the  inter- 
mediate space  is  certainly  much  more  considerable  than  it  was 
computed  by  the  ancients.1  The  above-mentioned  promontories  are 
denominated  by  Livy 2  "  the  jaws  of  the  Corinthian  gulf."  We  dis- 
covered the  projecting  coast  from  the  Araxian  promontory ;  and,  in 
the  faint  distance,  the  islands  of  Cephallenia,  Ithaca,  and  the  Echi- 
nades,  Avith  the  TEtolian  shore,  near  Mesaloggion.  These  soft  dis- 
tances are  well  contrasted  with  the  rugged  and  frowning  precipices 
of  Chalcis  and  Taphiassos,  presenting  their  craggy  sides  to  the  open 
sea,  and  uniting  with  the  lofty  chains  of  Rhegana,  and  Loidoriki,  as 
they  branch  out  from  Pindos  and  (Eta.  The  town  of  Nepaktos  is 
seen  on  the  Locrian  coast  in  a  direction  of  N.  6°  E.,  and  the  sickle- 
formed  cape  of  Drepanon  projects  in  a  thin  line,  from  the  Achaian 
shore. 

When  we  had  drawn  this  beautiful  prospect,  the  evening  ap- 
proached, and  we  left  our  luggage  horses  to  follow  at  the  usual  pace 
of  three  miles  an  hour,  while  we  proceeded  with  greater  expedition 
to  Patra,  where  we  arrived  after  dark.  In  our  way  we  crossed  four 
rivers  mentioned  by  Pausanias ;  namely,  the  Bolinaios,  Selemnos, 
Charadros,  and  Meilichos.  These  are  insignificant  streams ;  and, 
except  the  latter,  which  is  called  Melikoukia,  have  no  distinctive 
names,  but  are  merely  called  ToJa^oi,  or  gtvpu. 


1  Thucydides  says  it  is  seven  stadia  in  breadth,  b.  2.  c.  S6  ;  Strabo  says  five,  b.  8.  p.  335  ; 
and  Pliny  says  it  is  near  a  mile.    Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  2. 
B.  28.  c.  7.  Fauces  ex  sunt  Corinthii  sinus. 

R  R  2 


308  ARRIVAL  AT  PATRA. 

It  was  too  dark  to  search  for  the  ruins  of  Rhypes,  Argyra,  and  the 
temple  of  Triklaria,  which  was  one  of  the  names  of  Diana.  Human 
sacrifices  were  offered  at  this  temple,  which  stood  near  a  stream, 
denominated,  on  that  account,  Ameilichos,  or  the  inexorable.  When 
these  barbarous  rites  were  abolished,  the  name  of  the  river  was 
changed  to  that  of  Meilichos,  or  the  gentle.' 

My  painter,  Signor  Pomardi,  wearied  with  the  length  of  the 
journey  and  the  hard  fare  that  is  found  in  the  cottages  of  Greece, 
and  discouraged  by  the  prospect  of  greater  hardships  in  our  pro- 
jected visit  to  the  interior  of  the  peninsula,  went  over  to  the  island  of 
Zakunthos,  for  the  purpose  of  re-establishing  his  health,  but  intend- 
ing to  return  to  Patra,  as  soon  as  I  had  finished  the  rest  of  my  tour. 

I  had  here  the  good  fortune  to  meet  Mr.  Gell ;  who,  having  com- 
pleted his  tour  through  Argolis,  was  on  the  point  of  proceeding 
through  the  rest  of  the  Peloponnesos.  We  accordingly  determined 
to  make  the  journey  together.  I  hired  five  horses  for  myself, 
attendants,  and  luggage,  at  a  hundred  paras  each  day,  which  in- 
cluded the  expense  of  their  keep.  We  were  also  advised  by  our 
consul  to  add  his  tatar  to  our  company,  from  which  we  were  assured 
that  we  should  derive  great  advantage,  as  his  appearance  alone 
would  command  respect.  The  fact,  however,  turned  out  to  be,  that 
if  we  had  dressed  up  a  log  of  wood  in  the  tatar's  habit,  it  would  not 
have  been  less  beneficial  to  us  than  the  presence  of  Salique,  who, 
during  the  whole  journey,  hardly  ever  consulted  any  thing  but  his 
own  convenience  and  gratification,  constantly  swilling  himself  with 
wine,  and  evading  every  service  that  was  likely  to  be  perilous  or 
difficult. 


1  Pausan.  b.  7.  c.  19. 


THE  RIVER  PEIROS.  309 


TO  THE  KHAN  OF  PALAIO  ACHAIA. 

Thus  equipped,  we  set  out  on  the  18th  of  January,  and  in  twelve 
minutes  reached  the  sea-side,  leaving  the  church  of  Saint  Andrew 
to  the  right.  At  a  short  distance  from  this  place  several  small 
streams  which  rise  on  Mount  Panachaikos  traverse  the  road,  and 
enter  the  sea. 

When  we  had  proceeded  fifty  minutes  from  Patra  we  crossed  the 
small  river  Leuka,1  which  is  generally  supposed  to  be  the  Glaukos ; 
but  Pausanias "  says,  that  river  entered  the  sea  near  the  Peiros,  which 
was  eighty  stadia  from  Patra.  The  plain,  which  is  fertilized  with 
these  numerous  streams,  abounds  in  vineyards,  olive-groves,  and 
fruit-trees,  particularly  oranges,  lemons,  pomegranates,  and  almonds; 
the  fig-trees  are  remarkable  for  great  size,  and  the  excellence  of  their 
fruit. 

We  passed  near  a  low  cape  projecting  into  the  sea ;  and  on  our 
left  observed  a  village  named  Neochorio.5 

In  two  hours  and  a  half  from  Patra,  we  noticed  some  small  Roman 
remains  near  the  village  Lukala  to  the  left  of  the  road.  Here  com- 
mence some  low  hills,  which  constitute  one  of  the  ramifications  of 
Panachaikos,  and  exhibit  a  variety  of  picturesque  forms. 

Having  passed  through  some  fields  of  flax,  and  crossed  a  bridge 
over  a  rivulet,  we  came  in  three  hours  and  forty  minutes  from  Patra 
to  the  broad  and  rapid  Kamenitza,  the  ancient  Peiros,  engrossed  by 
the  Teuteas  and  the  Kaukon ;  and,  according  to  Strabo,4  sometimes 
denominated  Acheloos.  The  commentators5  of  the  geographer 
conceive  this  passage  to  be  imperfect;  but  Strabo,6  in  another 
place,  repeats,  that  the  Acheloos  flows  near  Dyme.     According  to 


1  Pronounced  Lef  ka.         *  B.  7.  c.  1 8.  *  The  new  village.  4  B.  8.  p.  342. 

5  See  note  4.  p.  526.  edit.  Casaub.  6  B.  10.  p.  450. 


310  RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 

Pausanias "  it  was  called  Pieros,  or  Peiros.  It  would  appear  from 
the  topographer,  that  the  cities  of  Olenos  and  Pharai  were  near  this 
river,  and  Strabo  places  Dyme  in  its  vicinity ;  whereas  Pausanias 
says  it  was  forty  stadia  from  its  mouth :  the  latter  author  asserts, 
that  the  Pieros  was  about  eighty  stadia  from  Patra. 

Having  crossed  the  Pieros,  which  anciently  separated  the  Patraean 
and  Dymaean  territories,  we  passed,  in  sixteen  minutes,  near  a  small 
village,  called  kuXcuo  A^aia,  "  ancient  Achaia,"  situated  on  a  hill  to 
the  left.  In  eight  minutes  more  we  reached  a  khan,  which  has  the 
name  of  the  neighbouring  village.  In  the  walls  of  the  khan  are  some 
ancient  blocks,  and  the  three  following  sepulchral  inscriptions : 

K  AA  A&TEPMoNIoTX  A IPE 

NIKoSTPATASflTIHN 
AE  g  IK  AEoSXAIPETE 

STPAToNIKAArAQilNsSXAIPE 

The  khanghis  informed  me  that  they  had  been  brought  from  a  pa- 
laio-kastro,  which  he  pointed  out  at  the  distance  of  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile.  While  our  pilau  Avas  preparing  at  the  khan,  I  examined  the 
ruins,  which  are  few  and  imperfect.  The  acropolis  occupied  a  small 
round  hill.  The  few  remains  of  the  walls  which  are  left  are  nearly 
of  a  regular  construction,  but  with  an  approximation  to  the  fourth 
style.  Considerable  part  of  the  ruins  is  overgrown  with  weeds  and 
bushes. 

These  are  probably  the  remains  of  Olenos ;  though  some  have  sup- 
posed them  to  be  those  of  Pharai,  from  an  inscription  found  amongst 
the  ruins,  in  which  the  name  of  that  town  was  mentioned.  But 
Pausanias  says  that  Pharai  was  one  hundred  and  fifty  stadia  from 
Patrae,  which  is  much  more  than  the  actual  distance  between  that 


1  B.  7.  c.  22. 


RUINS  OF  ANOTHER  CITY.  311 

town  and  the  ruins  in  question.     The  inscription  alluded  to  is  the 
following. ' 

noAis*APinN 

APETA2ENEKENKAI 

ET*PANOPA 

KA.AOKArA0lA2A2IX 

The  view  from  Palaio-Achaia  extends  as  far  as  the  islands  of 
Cephallenia,  Ithaca,  and  the  Echinades,  the  coast  of  Acarnania, 
iEtolia,  Locris  Ozolaea,  and  the  entrance  of  the  Corinthian  gulf. 


TO  MAURO  BOUNA. 

On  the  19th,  we  reassumed  our  journey  toward  Elis ;  and,  pro- 
ceeding through  a  plain  near  the  sea,  in  fifty  minutes,  came  to  some 
ancient  vestiges,  and  a  low  tumulus  of  earth. 

On  the  left  we  observed  a  marsh,  and  the  village  of  Domasto,  at 
the  distance  of  about  three  miles. 

Having  gone  forty  minutes  from  the  tumulus,  we  passed  over  some 
ancient  traces  and  large  blocks  of  stone.  Similar  remains  are  ob- 
served a  quarter  of  an  hour  further ;  a  short  way  beyond  which  are 
some  straw  huts  and  a  well.  Half  an  hour  more  brought  us  to  a  vil- 
lage called  Karamorta,  or  Karabosta,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  town, 
probably  Dyme.  But  the  distance  of  forty  stadia,  given  by  Pausa- 
nias  from  the  mouth  of  the  Peiros  to  that  city,  does  not  correspond 
with  two  hours  and  three  quarters,  which  we  consumed  in  proceed- 
ing from  the  Peiros  to  Karamorta. 

1  I  am  indebted  for  this  communication  to  Dr.  Schinas  of  Constantinople. 


312  RUINS  OF  TEICHOS. 

The  vestiges  of  this  place  are  very  imperfect.  There  are  several 
sepulchres,  some  of  which  have  been  opened,  and  found  to  contain 
the  usual  vases  of  terra  cotta. 

Polybius1  mentions  a  place  in  the  Dymsean  territory,  named  Heca- 
tombaion,  where  the  Achaians  were  vanquished  by  Cleomenes.  It 
is  clear  that  Pausanias  has  not  exhibited  his  usual  accuracy  in  ex- 
amining the  coast  from  Elis  to  Patrae ;  and  his  copyists  have  added 
to  the  confusion  of  his  narrative.  He  notices2  nothing  on  his  road 
from  Cyllene  to  Dyme,  except  a  temple  of  Minerva  near  the  river 
Larisos,  and  the  tomb  of  Sostratos ;  though  it  is  very  unlikely  that 
so  rich  and  populous  a  country  should  have  possessed  no  cities  or 
temples  worthy  of  notice  in  a  space  of  so  great  an  extent. 

On  quitting  this  place  we  passed  near  a  fountain  and  some  mo- 
dern traces;  and  to  the  right  saw  part  of  the  salt  lake  called  Papa, 
which  name  is  also  given  to  the  neighbouring  cape  that  rises  out  of 
it,  and  is  the  ancient  Araxos.  We  did  not  visit  the  lake,  as  we  had 
been  assured  by  other  travellers  that  it  exhibited  nothing  worthy  of 
observation.  It  is  narrow,  but  six  miles  in  length,  and  separated 
from  the  sea  by  a  low  sand  bank,  which,  in  stormy  weather,  is  occa- 
sionally overflowed  by  the  waves.  It  abounds  in  fish,  which  feed  and 
enrich  the  neighbouring  villages ;  for  as  the  Greeks  consume  but 
little  meat,  fish  becomes  an  object  of  more  eager  pursuit.  The  lake 
contains  a  small  island,  upon  which  is  the  church  of  Saint  John. 

After  our  departure  from  the  khan  in  the  morning,  the  road  ran 
through  a  continued  plain,  part  of  which  was  cultivated,  and  the 
rest  covered  with  forests,  composed  of  many  kinds  of  oaks,  especially 
the  balania,  or  quercus  esculus,  and  the  quercus  suber,  or  cork  tree. 
We  arrived  at  the  foot  of  an  eminence,  and  in  five  minutes  reached 
the  summit,  where  we  examined  the  remains  of  an  ancient  castle,  the 
situation  of  which  corresponds  with  that  of  Teichos.  Polybius'  says 
that  Teichos  was  near  cape  Araxos  in  the  territory  of  Dyme ;  and 

•  B.  2.  p.  137.     ExzlopPcuov.        *  B.  7.  c.  17.  J  B.4.p.  324.  345.  346. 


RUINS  OF  TEICHOS.  313 

that,  according  to  fable,  it  was  erected  by  Hercules,  as  a  strong  hold 
against  the  Eleians,  whose  confines  it  approached.  The  circuit  of 
the  fort  was  not  more  than  a  stadium  and  a  half;  but  it  was  of  great 
strength,  and  the  Avails  were  raised  to  the  height  of  thirty  cubits. 
The^hill  which  it  occupies  is,  in  a  great  measure,  surrounded  by 
deep  and  extensive  marshes,  which  communicate  with  the  sea,  and 
abound  in  fish  and  wild  fowl,  and  contain  some  low  islands  covered 
with  trees  and  bushes.  The  view  extends  along  the  Eleian  shore, 
over  the  Cyllenian  and  Cyparissean  gulfs,  with  Zakunthos  and  Ce- 
phallenia  in  front  of  the  prospect.  The  castle  is  built  of  rough 
unhewn  stones,  the  largest  of  which  measured  seven  feet  in  length. 
It  has  evidently  been  much  restored  and  modernised.  It  appears  to 
have  had  but  one  entrance,  which  faces  the  sea,  and  is  approached 
by  a  difficult  and  winding  path.  The  walls  in  this  part  are  fifteen 
feet  in  thickness.  The  breadth  of  the  area,  within  the  walls,  is  about 
forty  paces,  and  the  length  about  three  times  as  much.  On  the  op- 
posite side  towards  the  land,  a  wall  extends  from  the  summit  to  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  terminating  in  the  marshes.  The  eminence  on  which 
the  castle  stands,  forms  part  of  the  projecting  chain  which,  com- 
mencing in  the  plain,  finishes  in  the  sea  at  the  promontory  of  Araxos, 
which  divides  the  plain  into  two  parts,  and  was  the  most  ancient 
boundary  of  the  Eleian  and  Achaian  territories.1  The  name  of 
Araxos  is  no  doubt  derived  from  ccgcctr<ra>,*  and  was  probably  given  to 
it  from  this  circumstance.  Strabo3  assigns  a  similar  derivation  to 
the  word  Araxes,  the  ancient  name  of  the  Peneios,  from  its  sepa- 
rating Olympos  from  Ossa;  and  he  imagines  that  the  Araxes  of  Ar- 
menia owed  its  name  to  the  same  cause.  The  Arachthos,  which 
enters  the  Ambracian  gulf,  has  probably  the  same  derivation,  as  may 
easily  be  imagined  from  the  extraordinary  manner  in  which  its 
stream  divides  the  rocks  and  mountains  through  which  it  flows. 
Having  sufficiently  examined  this  place,  we  descended  to   the 


1  Pausan.  b.  6.  c.  26.         2  To  break  into  parts,  or  divide.         3  B.  1 1.  p.  531. 
VOL.    II.  S  S 


314  PROBABLE  SITE  OF  BOUPRASION. 

plain,  and  in  forty  minutes  crossed  a  stream  that  enters  the  marshes 
on  our  right  hand,  and  is  probably  the  Larisos,  which  separated 
the  Achaian  and  the  Eleian  territories ;  though  Cape  Araxos  was 
the  most  ancient  boundary  of  the  contiguous  states.' 

Pausanias  makes  the  distance  from  the  city  of  Elis  to  that  river  157 
stadia,  which  does  not  agree  with  the  time  of  eight  hours  and  forty 
minutes,  which  I  employed  in  travelling  over  that  space.  The  cal- 
culation of  three  miles  an  hour  makes  twenty-six  miles,  and  260 
stadia,  if  ten  are  calculated  to  the  mile.  Pausanias  seems  to  be  full 
of  mistakes  and  misrepresentations  in  this  part  of  his  topography. 
Strabo2  says  that  the  Larisos  flows  from  Skollis ;  or,  as  Homer3  calls  it, 
Olenia  Petra ;  and  near  Bouprasion,  divides  the  territory  of  Dyme 
from  that  of  Eleia.  Plutarch*  and  Pausanias5  relate  the  history  of  the 
battle  which  was  fought  near  the  Larisos,  between  the  Eleians  and 
./Etolians  on  one  side,  and  the  Achaians,  commanded  by  Philopce- 
men,  on  the  other ;  in  which  the  former  were  totally  routed,  and  their 
chief,  Demophanes,  killed  by  Philopoemen. 

Twenty  minutes  beyond  this  river  we  arrived  at  a  village  and 
metochi,  called  Mauro-Bouna,6  consisting  of  some  scattered  huts, 
composed  of  straw  and  reeds,  and  belonging  to  the  monastery  of 
Megaspelia,  in  Arcadia,  from  which  it  is  computed  to  be  a  distance 
of  eighteen  hours.  The  neighbourhood  of  the  village  is  marked  by 
some  imperfect  vestiges,  some  massy  blocks  and  fragmented  archi- 
traves of  stone,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  large  ancient  tiles. 

This  may  possibly  be  the  site  of  Bouprasion,  which  was  between 
Dyme  and  Elis,  near  the  river  Larisos.  It  was  once  a  place  of 
consequence,  but  it  had  ceased  to  exist  before  the  time  of  Strabo.7 
The  surrounding  country  is  a  rich  agricultural  plain  of  great  extent. 
Homer8  gives  Bouprasion  the  epithet  of  toXvzv^ov,  "  abounding  in 
wheat." 


'   Pausan.  b.  G.  c.  26.  b.  7.  c.  17.  2  B.  8.  p.  3S7.  See  also  Livy,  b.  27.  c.  31. 

1  Iliad,  11.  v.  756.  4  Life  of  Philopoemen.  *  B.  8.  c.  49. 

6  The  black  mountain.  ^  B.  S.  p.  340.  8  Iliad,  2.  v.  615.  and  11.  v.  755. 


IMPERFECT  RUINS.  315 


TO  CAPELLETTO. 


On  the  20th  we  mounted  our  horses  in  the  rain,  and  passing  near 
a  low  tumulus,  crossed  a  fine  cultivated  plain  of  considerable 
extent.  In  an  hour  we  reached  a  forest  of  Balania  oaks,  and 
having  passed  through  a  village  called  Aly  Chelibey,  and  crossed  a 
rivulet,  we  saw  a  church  to  the  right  called  Monoladi.  Soon  after 
crossing  another  stream  we  observed  the  surface  of  the  earth  covered 
with  fragments  of  tiles,  the  indication  of  an  ancient  village.  In 
three  hours  and  forty  minutes  from  Mauro  Bouna,  we  reached  a 
small  village  called  Capelletto,  situated  in  a  bushy  hollow,  where 
we  lodged  in  the  house  or  pyrgos  of  the  agha,  resembling  one  of  the 
small  castellated  mansions  that  frequently  occur  in  the  Highlands  of 
Scotland. 


TO  PALAIOPOLI,  ELIS. 


The  next  morning  we  continued  our  journey,  and  in  forty  minutes 
reached  the  village  of  Kalloteicho,1  where  we  expected,  from  the 
name,  to  find  the  ruins  of  some  ancient  city ;  but  there  are  no  re- 
mains whatever  of  antiquity.  We  crossed  two  rivulets,  over  one  of 
which  there  is  a  bridge,  and  arrived  at  the  kalybia  of  a  village 


1  Beautiful  wall. 

s  s  2 


316  ANCIENT  SEPULCHRES. 

named  Mazi,  from  whence  to  the  right  we  saw  another  village  called 
Eretune.  We  crossed  another  little  stream,  and  observed  a  considera- 
ble, space  covered  with  broken  tiles  and  pottery ;  and  on  examining 
the  spot  found  it  to  be  an  ancient  cemetery.  The  late  rain  had  washed 
away  the  earth  in  one  part,  and  we  found  a  coarse  cinerary  urn  of 
terra  cotta,  containing  ashes  and  human  bones.  Had  we  had  time 
to  excavate,  even  to  a  very  moderate  depth,  we  should  no  doubt 
have  been  well  recompensed  for  our  trouble ;  but  we  were  every 
day  obliged  to  resist  temptations  of  a  similar  nature,  and  to  sacri6ce 
many  objects  of  subordinate,  to  those  of  paramount  importance. 

As  we  proceeded  we  had  a  view  of  Castel  Tornesi  on  our  right, 
situated  upon  an  eminence  rising  from  the  sea  nearly  in  a  direction 
of  west-south-west. 

We  were  met  by  a  large  party  of  Greek  and  Turkish  sportsmen, 
who  were  shooting,  and  had  killed  a  fox  and  several  hares,  two  of 
which  they  sold  us  for  100  paras. 

We  crossed  some  rivulets,  and  observed  two  tumuli ;  some 
villages  are  seen  on  the  right,  at  one  of  which  there  is  a  mill,  and  a 
small  modern  aqueduct.  We  passed  through  a  village  named  Sosti, 
which  contains  a  few  imperfect  vestiges,  after  which  we  crossed  two 
streams  and  a  broad  shallow  river,  which,  descending  from  the 
mountains  on  the  left,  flows  at  the  northern  foot  of  the  acropolis 
of  Elis,  and  enters  the  sea  about  twelve  miles  from  the  ruins  of  Elis, 
not  far  from  Cape  Chelonatas.  This  river  is  probably  the  Peneios 
noticed  by  Strabo'  and  Pausanias,2  which  was  aggrandised  by  the 
confluence  of  the  Ladon,  between  Elis  and  Pylos. 

Forty  minutes  more  brought  us  to  the  kalybia  of  Palaiopoli, 
where  we  found  some  scattered  blocks  and  vestiges  of  ancient 
edifices.  In  twenty  minutes  more  we  reached  the  village  of  Pa- 
laiopoli, which  is  situated  on  the  ruins  of  Elis,  at  the  south-west 
foot  of  some  earthen  hills,  on  one  of  which  was  the  acropolis,  whose 


1  B.  8.  p.  339.  »  B.  6.  c.  22. 


RUINS  OF  ELIS.  317 

only  remains  are  a  few  large  blocks  of  stone,  some  foundations,  and 
the  single  frustum1  of  a  fluted  Doric  column,  perhaps  belonging 
to  the  temple2  of  Minerva.  Here  are  also  the  small  remains  of  a 
modern  castle,  apparently  of  Venetian  construction. 

The  ruins  of  Elis  are  few,  and  uninteresting  from  their  want  of 
preservation.  Of  Grecian  remains  nothing  is  seen  but  a  confused 
wreck  of  scattered  blocks.  There  are  some  masses  of  brick  work, 
and  an  octagon  tower  of  the  same  materials,  which  appear  to  be  of 
Roman  origin.  There  are  niches  within  the  octagon  building,  and 
we  were  informed  that  below  them  some  statues  had  been  excavated 
about  fifteen  years  before  our  arrival,  and  had  been  sent  to  Zakun- 
thos,  where  they  were  purchased  by  a  Venetian. 

It  is  surprising  that  there  should  be  so  few  remains  of  the  temples, 
porticos,  theatres,  and  other  edifices  which  embellished  the  town  of 
Elis  in  the  second  century;5  much  is  no  doubt  covered  by  the 
earth,  which  is  considerably  above  its  original  level. 

Coins  are  frequently  found  here,  and  we  purchased  some  copper 
ones  of  Elis  in  good  preservation,  but  the  beautiful  silver  tetra- 
drachms,  the  triumph  of  the  numismatic  art  in  Greece,  are  of  very 
rare  occurrence.  Their  usual  types  are  the  heads  of  Jupiter  and 
Juno,  the  eagle  devouring  a  hare,  the  eagle  upon  an  Ionic  capital, 
and  the  thunderbolt. 

Strabo*  pretends  that  the  city  of  Elis  was  not  in  existence  in  the 
time  of  Homer ;  but  that  after  the  Persian  wrars,  the  inhabitants, 
who  lived  in  scattered  villages  about  the  plain,  collected  together 
in  the  capital,  which,  with  the  rest  of  Eleia,  being  sacred  to  Jupiter, 
was  built  without  walls.  Diodorus  Siculus5  also  informs  us  that 
when  Paxiergos  was  archon  of  Athens,  in  the  77th  olympiad,  the 
Eleians,  who  before  lived  in  small  scattered  towns,  established 
themselves  in  one,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Elis. 


1  Three  feet  in  diameter.  2  Pausan.  b.  6.  c.  26.  «£f>oy. 

1  See  Pausan.  b.  6.  c.  23,  24,  25,  26.  *  B.  8.  p.  336.  s  B.  II.  c.  54. 


318  RUINS  OF  ELIS. 

It  would  appear,  however,  from  the  testimony  of  Pausanias,'  that 
the  capital  existed  even  as  early  as  the  time  of  Oxylos,  the  ancestor 
of  Iphitos,  and  that  he  enlarged  its  walls  and  increased  its  popula- 
tion. Strabo "  notices  a  similar  tradition,  while  others  maintain  that 
it  was  founded  by  the  shepherd  Endymion.  Elis  was  unfortified 
when  the  Lacedaemonian  king  carried  war  into  that  country.1  We 
see  that,  long  after  that  period,  Telesphoros,  commander  of  the  fleet 
of  Antigonos,  king  of  Macedon,  fortified  the  acropolis  with  walls, 
which  were  soon  after  destroyed  by  Ptolemy,  general  of  Antigonos.4 
In  the  earliest  times  the  Eleian  territory  was  divided  into  two 
parts,  the  valleys  and  the  mountains,  x.oi~hn  and  oguvri.  It  had  also 
other  subdivisions,  which  are  enumerated  by  Homer  and  explained 
by  Strabo.5 

Triphylia  comprised  most  part  of  the  maritime  district,  and  was 
contiguous  to  Messenia.  Ancient  authors  enumerate  above  forty 
places  in  Eleia,  which  may  come  under  the  denomination  of  towns, 
villages,  or  castles.  Of  these  scarcely  any  vestiges  are  left.  As 
the  whole  territory  was  defended  by  the  superstition  of  the  times 
from  the  intrusion  of  enemies,  walls  and  fortifications  were  deemed 
unnecessary  precautions.  The  traces  of  some  of  their  villages  are 
marked  by  heaps  of  broken  tiles  and  small  stones  which  lie  scattered 
about  the  plain.  But  no  part  of  Greece  of  the  same  extent, 
exhibits  such  a  scanty  portion  of  ancient  remains,  as  the  country 
of  Eleia ;  and  no  coins  are  known  to  exist  of  any  town  in  that 
territory  except  of  the  capital.  There  were  two  places  in  Eleia 
called  Pylos,  and  a  third  in  Messenia,  of  which  each  claimed 
the  honour  of  having  given  birth  to  the  venerable  Nestor.  The  two 
former  of  these  have  so  entirely  disappeared,  that  probably  not 
a  trace  now  remains  by  which  their  situations  can  be  identified. 
There  might  however  be  a  chance  of  finding  that  which  was  situated 


B.  5.  c.  4.  a  B.  10.  p.  463.  3  Xenophon.  Hist.  b.  S.  c.  2. 

4  Diodor.  Sic.  b.  19.  c.  87.  s  B.  8. 


TERRITORY  OF  ELEIA.  319 

in  the  mountains  between  Olympia  and  Elis,  and  which,  according 
to  Pausanias,'  was  eighty  stadia  from  the  latter. 

We  took  the  road  through  the  plain,  where  there  is  little  worthy 
of  observation,  and  I  should  recommend  to  future  travellers  to 
proceed  by  the  mountains.  Dr.  Chandler  indeed  followed  the 
mountain  road  from  Pyrgo  to  Olympia ;  but  the  abundance  of  gnats 
appears  to  have  engrossed  the  whole  of  his  attention,  and  he  does 
not  enliven  the  way  with  a  single  interesting  observation. 

Pausanias2  mentions  a  place  near  Elis  called  Petra,  or  the  rock. 
He  probably  alludes  to  the  acropolis  of  Elis,  which  was  called 
Mohmciog  Tejgu ; 3  and  the  word  Petra  was  one  of  the  denominations 
of  an  acropolis.4 

No  part  of  Greece  is  more  fertile  than  the  territory  of  Eleia, s  in 
which  there  is  a  rich  mixture  of  hill  and  dale,  of  arable  and  pasture 
land,  where  numerous  streams  dispense  their  water,  and  extensive 
forests  spread  their  shade.  Polybius 6  says,  that  "  Eleia  is  the  most 
populous  and  the  most  plentiful  part  of  the  Peloponnesos,  and 
that  some  of  the  families,  preferring  a  country  life,  never  visited  the 
capital  for  two  or  three  generations."  This  fertile  territory  was 
bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Cyllenian  gulf;  on  the  east  by  the 
Arcadian  mountains,  Pholoe,  Azan,  and  Parrhasios;  on  the  north 
by  Achaia;  and  on  the  south  by  Messenia.  After  the  re-establish- 
ment of  the  Olympic  games  by  Iphitos,  the  whole  Eleian  territory 
was  consecrated  to  the  service  of  Jupiter.  The  inhabitants  of  this 
favoured  region  were  exempt  from  bearing  arms ;  the  territory  was 
inviolable,  and  when  it  was  traversed  by  the  troops  of  any  neigh- 
bouring state,  such  troops  were  obliged  to  deposit  their  arms  at  the 
confines,  nor  did  they  receive  them  again  till  they  quitted  the  ter- 
ritory. All  the  Grecian  states  were  bound  to  abstain  from  invading 
it  by  most  solemn  obligations,  and  this  engagement  was  preserved 


•  B.  6.  c.  22.  '  B.  6.  c.  24.  3  Lycophron. 

4  Strabo  calls  the  Athenian  acropolis  Petra.  5  Pausan.  b.  6.  c.  26.  «  B.  4.  p.  336. 


320  TERRITORY  OF  ELEIA. 

with  scrupulous  fidelity,  until  the  Spartan  king,  Agis,  led  his  army 
into  the  country,  and  devastated  the  consecrated  land.'  Olympia 
was  also  seized  by  the  Arcadians  in  the  104th  Olympiad,  and  the 
temple  despoiled  of  its  treasures.  Elis  was  also  taken  by  surprise 
by  the  Messenians.* 


TO  PYRGO. 


On  the  22d  we  quitted  Palaiopoli;  and  a  short  way  from  the 
village  were  embarrassed  amongst  some  marshes,  which  caused  a 
temporary  delay.  The  name  of  Elis  probably  owed  its  origin  to  its 
marshy  situation  :  Strabo5  pretends  that  the  towns  of  EXoj,  EXeov,  and 
EiXetriov,  were  so  denominated  aro  %v  sXw,  from  their  vicinity  to 
marshes.  It  is  a  singular  coincidence  of  circumstances  that  most  of 
the  towns  whose  names  begin  with  El,  are  situated  in  low,  and 
generally  marshy  ground.  For  instance,  the  Eleusis  of  Boeotia  and 
Attica,  and  Elateia  in  Phocis.  Even  the  name  of  our  Ely,  in  Cam- 
bridgeshire, may  owe  its  origin  to  a  similar  cause;  for  it  is  certain 
that  many  denominations  in  our  language  are  derived  from  the  Greek. 

A  short  way  from  this  place  we  crossed  two  streams,  and  observed 
several  tumuli  dispersed  through  the  plain  ;  and  here  and  there  some 
imperfect  vestiges  of  antiquity.  Strabo  mentions  the  rivers  Helis- 
son,4  and  Selleis,5  in  this  part  of  Eleia,  and  he  imagines  that  Homer4 
alludes  to  the  latter  in  speaking  of  the  city  of  Ephyra,  which  was 
situated  on  its  bank. 


1  Xenophon,  hist.-b.  'o.  c.  16.  *  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  2S.  '  B.  9.  p.  404.  406. 

•  Or  Helissa.      *  Which  rises  in  Mount  Plioloe,  b.  8.  p.  33S.      6  Iliad,  2.  v.  659. 


PLAIN  OF  ELIS.  321 

The  town  of  Gastouni,  seated  on  a  gentle  eminence  rising  from 
the  sea,  was  visible  to  the  west. 

It  may  be  doubted  whether  the  numerous  tumuli  which  are  scat- 
tered through  the  plain  are  repositories  of  the  dead  ;  or  are  only  the 
cleaning  of  the  fields.  I  am  more  inclined  to  believe  them  to  be 
the  latter ;  for  sepulchral  tumuli  are  generally  indications  of  battles 
which  have  been  fought  upon  the  spot ;  and  I  recollect  no  account 
in  history  of  any  battle  that  ever  happened  in  this  place. 

The  plain  which  we  traversed  was  a  perfect  fiat,  and  the  soil  fer- 
tile ;  but  the  want  of  population  keeps  a  great  part  of  it  in  an  un- 
cultivated state. 

It  is  bounded  by  a  low  coast,  without  any  picturesque  features, 
and  stretches  from  north  to  south,  from  the  Peneios  to  the  Alpheios, 
between  which  rivers  is  the  Chelonatan  promontory,  the  ruins  of 
Cyllene,  the  hill  and  ruined  city  of  Hyrmina,  the  point  of  Pheia, 
with  a  river  and  the  remains  of  a  town  of  the  same  name :  next  is 
Cape  Ichthys,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Alpheios,  comprising  a  length 
of  two  hundred  and  eighty  stadia  between  the  mouths  of  the  two 
rivers.  The  plain  is  closed  towards  the  east,  by  humble  and  uniform 
eminences,  which  separate  it  from  the  more  aspiring  heights  of 
Arcadia. 

We  proceeded  along  the  iegct  odog,1  or  sacred  way,  which  led  from 
Elis  to  Olympia. 

In  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes  from  Palaiopoli,  we  came  to  a 
large  ancient  foss  of  artificial  formation,  extending  towards  the  sea; 
and  which  seems  to  have  been  contrived  for  the  purpose  of  draining 
off  the  superfluous  waters  of  the  low  land,  which  must,  at  times, 
have  been  subject  to  inundations.  The  principal  wealth  of  Augeas, 
one  of  the  early  kings  of  Elis,  consisted  in  the  immense  number  of 
cattle  which  pastured  in  the  surrounding  plain.    The  arduous  enter- 


1  Pausan.  b.  5,  c.  25. 
VOL.  II.  T  T 


322  THE  STABLES  OF  AUGEAS. 

prise  of  cleaning  out  the  stables  of  these  cattle  was  undertaken  by 
Hercules ;  and  he  performed  it  by  changing  the  course  of  the  river 
Peneios.  The  stables  of  Augeas  were  probably  nothing  more  than 
the  plain ;  the  waters  of  which,  for  want  of  proper  outlets,  or  emis- 
saries, had  stagnated  into  foul  marshes,  which  were  cleared  and 
purified  by  means  of  drains  and  fosses ;  of  which  the  great  foss  in 
question  seems  to  be  a  surviving  evidence. 

In  the  prosecution  of  our  route  we  crossed  two  rivulets,  and  ob- 
served three  villages  in  the  plain.  I  only  learnt  the  names  of  two, 
-which  are  called  Kagobiti,  and  Derwisch  Chelibey,  where  some 
scattered  olive-trees  are  seen.  A  little  lower  down,  towards  the  sea, 
are  the  ruins  of  one  of  the  towns  or  villages  without  walls,  which 
abounded  in  Eleia.  The  remains  consist  of  avast  quantity  of  bricks 
and  tiles,  with  some  blocks  of  stone,  belonging  probably  to  a  temple. 
We  were  assured  that  many  coins  have  been  found  in  this  place. 

A  short  way  further,  we  observed  a  low  tumulus,  surmounted  with 
a  single  block  of  stone. 

After  proceeding  through  some  vineyards,  and  crossing  a  small 
stream,  the  plain  began  to  be  gently  elevated,  and  assumed  a  more 
wild  and  uncultivated  form.  We  passed  through  a  village  named  Mes- 
solongachi,  which  is  about  four  hours  from  Palaiopoli ;  and  in  a  short 
time  crossed  three  small  rivulets,  one  of  which  was  probably  the 
Pheia."  We  approached  within  two  miles  of  the  sea,  in  which  a 
promontory  stretches  out,  containing  on  its  summit  a  few  ancient 
remains,  called  Katakolo-Kastro,  or  Pondiko-Kastro,  and  is  proba- 
bly the  ancient  Pheia,1  which  name  was  common  to  the  town  and 
the  promontory,  and  was  the  beginning  of  Pisatis.' 

Pheia  is  placed  by  Homer4  near  the  river  Jardanos. 


1  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  342. 
'  Or  Phia,  or  Phea.     Strabo  calls  it  a  small  town,  7ttXf%nj,  b.  8.  p.  342.         3  Ibid. 
*  Iliad,  7.  v.   135.     See  also  Thucyd.  b.  2.  c.  25.,  b.  7.  C.  31.     Stephan.  de  Urb.  p.  737. 
Eustath.  in  Horn.  p.  671.  13. 


TOWN  OF  PYRGO.  323 

Our  impatient  desire  to  visit  the  ever  memorable  ruins  of  Olympia 
would  not  suffer  us  to  deviate  from  our  route  to  examine  the  remains 
of  Pheia,  which  are  small  and  insignificant.  As  we  continued  our 
journey  we  observed  a  church  upon  a  gentle  elevation  to  the  left,  and 
had  a  view  of  the  lofty  mountains  of  Messenia  and  Arcadia  towards  the 
south-south-east.  After  traversing,  for  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes,  a 
rising  plain  covered  with  bushes,  we  began  by  a  gentle  descent  to 
enter  an  extensive  arable  plain,  in  which  we  passed  over  the  ruins  of 
an  Eleian  town,  consisting  of  broken  tiles  and  small  stones.  At  a 
short  distance  from  this  place,  four  streams  traverse  the  plain,  gently 
gliding  towards  the  sea.  Having  passed  through  an  extensive  vine- 
yard, we  arrived  at  the  town  of  Pyrgo,  which  is  seven  hours  from 
Palaiopoli.  We  were  hospitably  lodged  in  the  house  of  the  bishop, 
though  we  had  no  introductory  recommendation.  We  had  thus 
every  day  an  opportunity  of  observing,  that  travelling  in  Greece  is 
attended  with  much  less  difficulty  than  in  the  mountainous  parts  of 
the  Roman  and  Neapolitan  states,  where  disinterested  hospitality  is 
unknown,  and  where  strangers  experience  uniform  hatred  and  spolia- 
tion. 

Pyrgo  is  a  considerable  town.  The  population  is  entirely  Greek, 
except  the  voivode;  and  the  inhabitants  have  the  character  of  being 
courageous  and  independent.  They  exhibit  an  air  of  plenty,  which 
is  by  no  means  fictitious,  and  for  which  they  are  indebted  to  the  exu- 
berant fertility  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  town  is  situated 
upon  a  moderate  eminence,  and  is  adorned  with  gardens  abounding 
in  fruit  trees  and  tall  cypresses.  It  commands  an  extensive  view 
over  a  richly  cultivated  plain,  terminated  by  the  Cyllenian  gulf  on 
one  side,  and  by  the  green  and  undulating  hills  which  separate  it  from 
the  Olympian  plain.  The  mountains  of  Arcadia  and  Messenia  rise 
conspicuously  in  a  more  remote  part  of  the  horizon.  The  Alpheios 
is  concealed  behind  the  elevated  undulations  of  the  plain. 

I  observed  no  remains  at  Pyrgos  which  could  induce  a  supposition 
of  its  antiquity.     There  was  a  castle  of  this  name  in  Eleia ;  but, 

t  t  2 


324  THE  ALPHEIOS. 

according  to  Livy,1  it  was  only  five  miles  from  Elis.  Strabo,1  how- 
ever, says  that  the  Pyrgitai,  or  country  of  the  Pyrgoi,  was  the  last 
of  Triphylia  on  the  confines  of  the  Cyparisseans  of  Messenia.  The 
Pyrgos  of  Livy  and  the  Pyrgoi  of  Strabo  were  evidently  different 
places ;  and  perhaps  the  modern  Pyrgos  occupies  the  site  of  the  latter. 
Herodotus3  pretends  that  Pyrgos  was  founded  by  the  Minyans. 

The  port,  which  is  called  Pyrgoi,  is  about  an  hour  and  a  half 
distant  from  the  town. 


TO  PHLOKA. 


On  the  23d,  we  resumed  our  journey  ;  and  after  passing,  for  an 
hour  and  twenty  minutes,  through  the  plain,  and  having  observed 
some  ancient  vestiges,  and  crossed  two  streams,  we  suddenly  arrived 
on  the  banks  of  the  Alpheios/  which  the  fluctuating  surface  of  the 
plain  had  previously  secluded  from  our  view.  The  river  here  forms 
two  low  islands.  The  opposite  bank  is  composed  of  low  and  pic- 
turesque hills,  fringed  with  trees  and  broken  into  knolls  and  glens, 
with  the  pretty  village  of  Gulanza  peering  on  one  side. 

The  Alpheios  in  this  place  has  the  same  muddy  colour,  and  nearly 
the  same  breadth,  as  the  Tiber  at  Rome.  Its  current  is  augmented 
by  many  tributary  streams5  during  its  course  through  Arcadia  and 
Eleia.     According  to  Plutarch,6  its  first  name  was  Nuktimos,  which 


1  B.  27.  c.  32.  e  B.  8.  p.  348. 

3  B.  4.  c.  143.     Stephanus  places  Pyrgoi  in  Messenia.     De  Urb.  p.  651. 
Pindar  frequently  writes  the  name  of  this  river  without  the  diphthong. 
5  See  Pausan.  b.  5.  c.  7.  6  De  fluniin. 


THE  ALPHEIOS.  325 

it  changed  for  that  of  Stymphelos,  when  the  son  of  Mars  and 
Dormothea  was  drowned  in  its  flood.  For  its  last  denomination  of 
Alpheios  it  was  indebted  to  a  similar  event,  when  a  person  of  that 
name  perished  in  its  stream.  According  to  Pausanias,1 "  the  Alpheios 
rises  at  Phylace,  and  enters  the  ground  in  the  territory  of  Tegea. 
It  then  reappears  near  Asea,  in  the  Megalopolitan  territory;  and, 
after  blending  its  waters  with  those  of  the  Eurotas,  which  also  rises 
near  the  same  place,  they  both  vanish  beneath  the  ground.  The 
Eurotas  becomes  again  visible  in  Arcadia  at  a  place  anciently  called 
Tltjycci,  '  the  Sources/  It  then  passes  through  Eleia,  and  enters 
the  sea  near  the  promontory  of  Ichthys."  The  spots  mentioned 
by  Pausanias  may  be  readily  discovered  by  examining  the  actual 
state  of  that  river,  and  exploring  its  souuces.  It  rises  on  a  mountain 
called  Barbenia,  the  ancient  Parthenion,  in  Arcadia,  and  finds  its 
way  to  Saranta  Potamoi,  in  the  road  between  Sparta  and  Tegea ; 
soon  after  which  it  is  merged  in  the  ground.  It  reappears  in  the 
plain  of  Tegea;  and,  after  sinking  again  in  a  chasm,  rises  anew  at 
a  place  called  Franko  Brusi,  near  the  ruins  of  Asea.  It  is  then 
lost  again;  and  rises  for  the  last  time  in  the  Megalopolitan  plain, 
at  a  place  called  Kephalo  Brusi,  which  must  be  the  Ylnyou  of  Pau- 
sanias. 

We  proceeded  through  a  grove  of  scattered  pines,  and  saw  two 
villages  on  the  left  called  Koukoura  and  Trephe.  To  the  right,  a 
water-mill  is  observed,  turned  by  a  small  rill,  a  branch  of  a  larger 
stream  which  we  soon  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  one  arch.  This  place 
is  near  two  hours  from  Pyrgos.  Having  proceeded  forty  minutes 
more  through  a  narrow  and  winding  valley,  a  mixture  of  cultivation 
and  marshy  ground,  we  began  to  ascend  some  gentle  elevations,  and 
passed  by  a  ruined  church,  with  some  scattered  blocks  of  stone,  and 
the  frustum  of  a  Doric  column  of  moderate  proportions.  In  a  tew 
minutes  more  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Phloka,  and  experienced  an 


'  B.  8.  c.  44  and  54.     See  also  Dionysius  Periegetes,  v.  410.     Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  343. 


326  PISA. 

hospitable  reception  in  the  house  of  a  Turkish  farmer,  the  principal 
person  of  the  village,  where  we  were  happy  to  find  that  the  women 
were  not  scrupulous  about  wearing  their  veils.  This  retired  village 
is  situated  on  a  green  knoll  rising  from  the  plain,  and  is  adorned 
with  different  kinds  of  fruit  trees,  particularly  olives,  oranges,  al- 
monds, and  figs.  The  huts  are  composed  of  straw  and  reeds,  and 
the  inhabitants  are  all  Turks,  who  cultivate  the  soil.  I  saw  no 
traces  of  antiquity  at  Phloka ;  but  the  vestiges  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  may  possibly  indicate  one  of  the  eight  cities  of  Pisatis.  Strabo' 
mentions  the  towns  of  Kukesion  and  Dyspontion,  which  belonged 
to  that  territory,  and  which  were  between  Olympia  and  Elis.  It  is 
not  surprising  that  there  should  be  so  much  uncertainty  respecting 
the  position  of  the  towns  in  this  district,  when  we  reflect  that  most 
of  them  were  in  ruins  in  the  time  of  Strabo ;  and  he  pretends  that 
some  doubted  whether  even  the  town  of  Pisa  itself  had  ever  existed. 
Some  imagined  it  was  situated  between  two  mountains,  named 
Ossa  and  Olympos:  Pausanias*  sa}rs  there  were  no  remains  of  it  in 
his  time,  and  that  its  site  was  occupied  by  a  vineyard. 

Although  it  was  destroyed  at  a  very  early  period  of  history,  yet 
its  name  was  long  preserved,  and  appears  to  have  been  transferred 
by  historians  as  well  as  poets  to  Olympia.  Herodotus'  speaks  of  the 
temple  of  Jupiter  Olympios  at  Pisa;  and  Stephanus4  says  that 
Pisa  was  a  town  and  fountain  of  Olympia.  Similar  confusion  con- 
cerning these  places  is  observed  in  other  authors ;  which  may  pro- 
bably be  ascribed  to  the  retention  of  the  name  by  the  district  after 
the  destruction  of  the  capital. 

Olympia  never  was  a  town  ;  and  it  is  not  called  so  by  any  ancient 
author:  Ortelius  is  wrong  in  calling  it  UrbsJ 

'  B.  8.  p.  356.  JB.  6.  c.  22.  '  B.  2.  c.  7. 

*  De  Urb.  p.  612.  iroXt;  x«»  xprjrrj  7ijj  OXvyutia.;. 
0  There  is  an  unique  coin  in  the  British  Museum  which  contains  the  word  OATMniA, 
but  it  belongs  to  Elis.     FAAEION.  laureated  head  of  Jupiter.     Rev.  OATMniA,  a  female 
head  with  a  diadem  and  ear-pendants,  her  hair  tied  behind.     It  is  a  silver  tetradrachm  of 
beautiful  style,  and  perfect  preservation. 


PISA.  327 

Pindar'  has  taken  the  same  poetical  liberty  with  Olympia  as  with 
Delphi,  by  frequently  naming  it  Pisa;  in  the  same  manner  as  he 
uses  the  words  Kirra,  and  Krisa,  for  Delphi,  owing  to  their  proxi- 
mity to  one  another.  Jupiter  was  called  Pisaeus,8  from  the  vicinity 
of  Olympia  to  Pisa,  as  Apollo  was  called  Cirrhaeus  from  the  proxi- 
mity of  Delphi  to  that  place.  Virgil'  and  Juvenal4  seem  also  to 
use  the  same  poetical  license. 

Pisa  took  its  name  from  a  daughter  of  Endymion ;  or,  as  others 
pretend,  from  Pisus,  son  of  Perieres,  and  grandson  of  iEolus.  Pisa 
of  Etruria  was  founded  by  a  colony  of  the  Pisaai  of  Eleia;5  and, 
while  the  capital  of  the  mother  country,  from  its  remote  destruction, 
had  not  even  in  the  time  of  Strabo  a  single  vestige  left  to  mark  its 
situation,  its  colony  is  still  a  flourishing  city,  and  retains  its  ancient 
appellation. 


TO  OLYMPIA. 


On  the  24th  we  set  out  with  eager  curiosity  for  the  ruins  of 
Olympia,  as  we  felt  an  impatient  desire  to  behold  a  spot  around 
which  such  a  wreath  of  glory  has  been  twined  by  the  divine  odes  of 
the  Theban  bard.     It  is  a  spot  renowned  for  the  achievements  of 


1  Buijj.to  h  jj.a.vhiiv  locptx;  AiOf  sy 
riia-a. — Olymp.  6:  v.  7. 

AAA'  w  Ultras  tvfevtyov  tit  A\<peuj  aXtro;. — Olymp.  8.  v.  12. 
About  Pisa  consult  the  scholiast  of  Pindar. — Olymp.  1.  v.  28. 
*  Seneca  Agamem.  act.  5.  v.  938. 

5  Aut  Alphea  rotis  praelabi  flumina  Pisae. — Georg.  S.  v.  180. 
Pissei  ramus  olivae. — Sat.  13.  v.  99.  5  Strabo,  b.  S.  p.  222. 


328  THE  PLAIN  OF  OLYMPIA. 

heroism  as  well  as  for  the  inspirations  of  poetry  ;  and  to  which  the 
exhilarating  festivals,  as  well  as  the  imposing  solemnities  of  religion, 
contributed  to  attract  the  curiosity  of  the  opulent,  and  the  piety  of 
the  devout. 

We  descended  to  a  plain,  encompassed  by  elevations  of  a  mode- 
rate height,  which  were  fringed  with  pines  of  slender  growth,  but 
elegant  forms.  In  half  an  hour  we  crossed  a  stream,  which  turns  a 
mill,  and  enters  the  Alpheios.  This  is  probably  the  Kladeos,  which 
flows  from  the  Arcadian  mountains.  As  soon  as  we  had  crossed 
this  river,  and  turned  round  the  foot  of  a  hill,  the  plain  of  Olympia, 
in  all  its  concentrated  glory  of  ancient  recollections  and  of  classic 
interest,  burst  upon  the  view.  It  is  of  an  oblong  form,  and  extends 
about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  east  to  west,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
northern  side  by  low,  waving  hills,  mantled  with  a  soft  verdure, 
variegated  by  cultivation,  and  occasionally  shaded  by  the  mingled 
foliage  of  the  ilex  and  the  pine.  Its  southern  boundary  is  the 
Alpheios,  whose  yellowT  waves  are  rolled1  in  a  broad  and  sinuous 
channel,  which  is  seen  gliding  at  the  base  of  a  range  of  hills,  varied 
with  wooded  promontories  and  luxuriant  recesses,  while  its  sloping 
sides  are  vivified  by  corn  fields,  which  rise  one  above  another  in  a 
succession  of  green  terraces,  supported  by  walls,  and  presenting  the 
picture  of  a  colossal  theatre.  This  chain  of  hills  is  much  higher 
than  that  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  plain,  and  is  more  particularly 
characterized  by  a  steep  rock  rising  from  the  river.  This  rock  may 
be  Mount  Typaion,  from  which  those  females  were  precipitated, 
who,  in  violation  of  the  established  laws,  had  been  stimulated  by 
the  impatience  of  curiosity  to  seek  the  forbidden  sight  of  the  Olympic 
games.2  The  plain  of  Olympia  is  a  fertile  corn  field,  and  the 
soil  is  saturated  with  the  muddy  depositions  of  the  Alpheios,  which 
overflows  at  least  once  a  year.     The  earth  is  consequently  raised 


1  svpu  piovla. — Pindar.  Olymp.  5.  v.  4'Z.  '  Pausan.  b.  5.  c.  6. 


RUINS  OF  OLYMPIA.  329 

above  its  original  level ;  and,  no  doubt,  conceals  many  rich  remains 
of  ancient  sculpture  and  magnificence.  The  number  of  altars  and 
statues  mentioned  by  Pausanias  is  truly  surprising.  Besides  four 
hundred  and  thirty-five  statues  of  gods,  heroes,  and  celebrated  per- 
sons, which  he  particularly  describes,  he  frequently  mentions  others 
in  a  mass.  He  also  enumerates  many  statues  of  horses,  lions,  and 
other  animals,  and  several  cars  of  bronze.  Nero '  threw  many  of 
the  finest  statues  into  the  latrina,  or  common  sewers,  which  con- 
ducted to  the  Alpheios.  The  Tiber,  at  Rome,  is  supposed  to 
contain  a  vast  assemblage  of  ancient  sculpture ;  and  thoughts  are 
entertained  of  turning  its  course,  in  order  to  explore  its  hidden 
treasures.  The  diversion  of  the  Alpheios  from  its  present  channel 
might  be  effected  with  less  difficulty,  and  would  probably  be  at- 
tended with  greater  profit. 

It  was  a  favorite  plan  of  the  learned  Winkelmann  to  raise 
a  subscription  for  the  excavation  of  the  Olympic  plain.  If  such 
a  project  should  ever  be  consummated,  we  may  confidently  hope 
that  the  finest  specimens  of  sculpture,  as  well  as  the  most  curious 
and  valuable  remains,  will  be  brought  to  light.  No  place  abounded 
with  such  numerous  offerings  to  the  gods,  and  with  such  splendid 
and  beautiful  representations  in  marble,  and  in  bronze.  Pau- 
sanias,2 in  his  tour  through  this  country,  saw  several  remains  of 
cars,  shields,  and  arms,  which  were  discovered  in  excavating  near 
the  column  of  Oenomaos.  The  fishermen,  at  this  day,  frequently 
drag  up  in  their  nets,  from  the  bed  of  the  Alpheios,  the  remains  of 
ancient  armour  and  utensils  of  bronze.  At  Phloka,  I  was  shown  the 
fragments  of  a  circular  shield  of  bronze,  which  was  mouldering  in 
decay  ;  and  I  purchased  part  of  a  helmet  of  the  same  material.  My 
much  lamented  friend,  Mr.  Mackenzie,  was  more  fortunate,  and 


1  Suetonius,  Nero,  c.  24.  Ac  ne  cujus  alterius  hieronicarum  memoria,  aut  vestigium 
extaret  usquam,  subverti  et  unco  trahi  abjicique  in  latrinas  omnium  statuas  et  imagines 
imperavit. 

*  B.  5.  c.  20. 

VOL.  II.  U  U 


330 


RUINS  OF  OLYMPIA. 


obtained  from  the  fishermen  two  entire  helmets  of  bronze,  in  per- 
fect preservation,  and  of  excellent  workmanship.' 


Ornament  round  one  of  the  helmets. 


A  short  time  before  my  arrival  a  bronze  lebes  of  large  dimensions 
was  excavated  near  the  ruins  of  the  temple :  it  was  quite  entire,  and 
I  had  an  offer  of  it  for  a  trifling  sum;  but,  as  it  was  perfectly  plain 
and  unornamented,  though  extremely  thin  and  finely  worked,  I  de- 
clined the  purchase,  on  account  of  the  inconvenience  of  its  size  and 
form,  which  was  that  of  a  large  cauldron.  It  appeared  to  have  been 
covered  with  gilding,  some  part  of  which  was  still  visible.  It  is 
worthy  of  remark,  that  Pausaniasc  affirms,  that  a  gilt  lebes  was 
placed  on  each  of  the  lower  akroteria  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter; 
Ae£y}$  sKi^vtros  bti  tzutrlw  %v  ogotpov  lea  Trigc^t  i7r;zzila,i.  Lebes  is  a  name 
peculiar  to  this  kind  of  vase;  and  though  I  do  not  pretend  to  assert 


'  They  are  now  in  the  possession  of  William  Hamilton,  Esq.:  one  of  them  is  extremely 
thin  ;  the  other  is  sufficiently  strong  to  have  been  used  in  war.     See  the  annexed  plate. 

4  B.  5.  c.  20. 


ANCIENT  ARMOUR.  331 

that  that  which  I  saw  was  actually  one  of  those  mentioned  by  Pau- 
sanias,  yet  there  is  something  remarkable  in  the  coincidence  of  cir- 
cumstances. This  identical  vase,  though  of  an  inelegant  form,  may 
possibly  have  been  one  of  those  which  were  upon  the  temple;  and 
which  was  probably  supported  by  a  tripodial  pedestal,  that  would 
have  removed  the  inelegant  appearance  which  it  has  when  deprived 
of  its  accompaniments. 

The  helmets  which  are  found  atOlympia  are  generally  so  extremely 
thin,  that  I  should  doubt  whether  they  were  ever  used  in  war. 
Pausanias  *  informs  us,  that  some  ran  at  the  games  armed  with  hel- 
mets, shields,  and  boots;  and  the  light  armour  which  is  found  at 
Olympia  was  probably  used  for  that  purpose,  rather  than  in  military 
operations.  The  light  Olympian  armour  was  also  probably  worn  in 
processions ;  for  of  that  practice  we  have  numerous  proofs.  Many 
of  the  figures  in  the  Panathenaic  procession  are  armed  with  helmets: 
and  charioteers,  in  the  same  warlike  attire,  are  frequently  represented 
on  sculptured  marble,  and  on  painted  vases.  This  kind  of  armour, 
which  the  ancients  termed  owXa,  vo^TivJyi^a,  was  distinguished  from 
that  used  in  war,  which  was  denominated  otXo,  ToXi^KfJ^icc.  Dionysius 
of  Halicarnassos2  observes,  that  there  is  as  much  difference  between 
the  orations  of  Demosthenes  and  the  orations  of  others,  as  there  is 
between  the  otX«  roXs^ia-Tfj^iu,  or  "  armour  made  for  war,"  and  the 
otXix,  7Toprsv]r}[>ia,  "  that  manufactured  for  show." 

It  is  evident  that  warlike  armour  was  of  considerable  weight;  for 
Plutarch'  asserts,  that  Alkimos,  the  Epirote,  one  of  the  officers  of 
Demetrios,  son  of  Antigonos,  wore  a  complete  suit  of  armour 4  which 
weighed  two  talents,  equal  to  about  a  hundred  and  twenty  pounds ; 
whereas   the   armour  of  the  other   soldiers  seldom  exceeded    half 


1  B.  6.  c.  10.  This  custom  was  introduced  in  the  seventy-fifth  Olympiad.  Armour  was 
also  worn  by  those  who  ran  at  the  Nemean  games.  Id.  b.  2.  c.  15.  Those  who  ran  armed 
in  the  stadium  were  denominated  OTt\ih$ptfji.oi.  Those  who  danced  the  Pyrrhic,  and  other 
warlike  dances,  were  armed  with  the  helmet  and  the  shield. 

*  Ylepi  7.  Aijp.oo-9.  A£iy&7)j7o;.  3  Life  of  Demetrios.  "  ITayoirAia. 

u  u  2 


3^2  ANCIENT  ARMOUR. 

that  weight.  Plutarch  '  also  says,  that  Zoilos  of  Cyprus  made  two 
cuirasses  of  iron  for  Demetrios,  weighing  each  no  more  than  forty 
mince,  which  is  equal  to  about  as  many  pounds.*  The  helmets5  and 
shields  used  by  the  Greeks  in  war  were  sometimes  of  leather4  or 
wood.  They  were,  however,  occasionally  composed  of  brass,  and 
some  of  the  parts  were  of  gold,  silver,  iron,  or  tin.  I  have  seen 
a  helmet  of  iron,  of  considerable  weight,  which  was  found  near 
Athens.5 

Votive  armour  was  also  of  a  light  quality  :  a  helmet  of  this  kind, 
with  an  inscription  in  ancient  Greek  characters,  is  in  the  collection 
of  Mr.  Payne  Knight. 

The  interest  which  is  felt  in  contemplating  the  departed  grandeur 
of  Olympia,  is  of  a  different  nature  from  that  which  agitates  the 
mind  at  Troy,  at  Marathon,  at  Thermopylae,  and  at  Plataea.  Reli- 
gious splendour  and  gymnastic  exercises  formed  the  prominent  fea- 
tures of  the  Olympic  history;  and  we  approach  the  venerable, 
though  humbled,  ruins  of  the  Olympian  Jove,  with  those  feelings  of 
regret,  and  those  sentiments  of  veneration,  which  will,  at  some  far 
distant  day,  be  experienced  by  the  traveller,  who,  when  Grecian 
ruins  shall  have  entirely  vanished  from  the  sight,  will  wander  over 
the  deserted  locality  of  London  or  of  Rome ! 

No  religious  ceremony  in  Greece  was  conducted  with  such  striking 
pomp  and  such  general  enthusiasm  as  the  Olympic  games.  The 
Isthmian,  the  Delphic,  the  Nemean,  and  even  the  great  Panathe- 
naia,  and  the  Eleusinian  processions,  were  not  comparable  to  the 
numerous  and  magnificent  rites  which  were  celebrated  at  Olympia. 
No  pains  were  spared,  no  expense  denied,  that  might  render  them 
worthy  of  the  deity  in  whose  honor  they  were  displayed.  In  the 
reign  of  Psammis,   of  Egypt,  some  Eleians  visited  that  country, 


1  Loc.  cit. 
8  A  hundred  drachmas  make  a  mina,  and  sixty  minae  make  a  talent. 
3  Homer,  Iliad,  10.  v.  261.  *  Such  were  the  a.a-irtSf(  fionai.  Homer,  Iliad,  5.  and  7« 

s  In  the  collection  of  Colonel  Leake. 


RUINS  OF  OLYMPIA.  333 

in  order  to  inquire  if  the  Egyptians  could  propose  any  improvement 
to  the  Olympic  games ;  which,  however,  were  found  to  possess  every 
attractive  decoration,  and  were  not  surpassed  even  by  the  religious 
ceremonies  of  the  Egyptians,  the  wisest  of  mankind.1 

The  present  name  of  the  Olympic  plain  is  Antilalla,  which  it  has 
probably  received  from  its  situation  opposite  the  town  of  Lalla,  as 
Antipaxos,*  Antiparos,'  and  many  other  places  in  Greece,  are  named 
from  their  respective  situations.  Some  have  imagined  that  it  has 
taken  its  name  from  avJiXaXo,  which,  in  the  modern  Greek,  signifies 
echo,  for  which  Olympia  was  famous.  The  echo  reverberated  seven 
times  near  the  Poikile.*  This  accident  was  no  doubt  owing  to  the 
relative  situations  of  the  buildings  which  reverberated  the  sounds. 
The  cause  has  vanished,  and  the  effect  is  no  more. 

The  first  ruin  we  reached  after  passing  the  Kladeos  was  of 
Roman  construction,  and  of  brick,  consisting  of  some  unintelligible 
masses  of  wall  at  the  foot  of  a  pointed  hill,  which,  though  much 
higher,  is  not  much  more  extensive  than  the  Roman  capitol.  This 
may  be  the  K^owoj  o^0og,  or  hill  of  Saturn.  Euxenos  and  some  other 
mythographers,  according  to  Dionysius  of  Halicarnassos,5  are  of 
opinion  that  the  Pisaei  gave  the  capitol  of  Rome  the  name  of 
Kronian,  or  Saturnian  Hill,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  Kronian 
Hill  in  Pisatis.  Plutarch*  pretends  that  the  original  name  of  the 
Kronian  Hill  was  Kjovgov. 

The  side  of  the  hill  which  faces  the  Alpheios  has  a  semi-circular 
indentation,  which  has  induced  some  to  imagine  it  the  remains  of  a 
theatre,  but  there  are  no  traces  of  architecture  to  confirm  that 
opinion.  A  tumulus  is  observed  near  this  spot.  Pausanias  men- 
tions an  amphitheatre  at  Olympia  built  by  Trajan,  who,  according 


1  Herodot.  b.  2.  c-  160.    /  *  Opposite  the  island  of  Paxos. 

3  Opposite  the  island  of  Paros.  *  Pausan.  b.  5.  c.  2  1. 

s  Antiq.  Rom.  b.  1.  c.  21.     Pindar  calls  it  uvJ/ijXoio  irilpav  ahfiahy  Kpwiov,  Olymp.  C.  v. 
109,  and  suietiXov  K^owov,  Olymp.  1.  v.  178. 

6  De  flumia. 


334  TEMPLE  OF  JUPITER  OLYMPIOS. 

to  the  same  author,  also  constructed  some  baths,  an  agora,  and  an 
hippodrome.  The  other  edifices  which  he  enumerates  at  Olympia 
are  the  great  temple,  the  Prytaneion,  the  Theokalion,  the  Philip- 
peion,'  the  temples  of  Juno  and  Pelops,  the  Metroon,  the  Stoa,  or 
portico  of  Agapto,  the  Leonidaion,  the  Hippodamion,  the  Gymna- 
sium, the  temples  of  Ceres,  Hercules,  and  Venus,  and  the  double 
temples  of  Lucina  and  Sosipolis,  and  the  Poikile.  Of  all  this  archi- 
tectural splendor,  the  temple  of  Jupiter  alone  can  be  ascertained 
with  any  degree  of  certainty.  A  little  imagination  can  discriminate 
the  stadium  which  was  between  the  temple  and  the  river  in  a  grove 
of  wild  olives.  It  was  composed  of  banks  of  earth  that  have  been 
levelled  by  time  and  by  the  plough. 

Not  many  paces  from  the  foot  of  the  Kronian  hill  towards  the 
Alpheios,  we  came  to  the  miserable  remains  of  a  spacious  temple, 
which  there  is  every  reason  to  suppose  that  of  the  Olympian  Ju- 
piter. The  soil,  which  has  been  considerably  elevated,  covers  the 
greater  part  of  the  ruin.  The  wall  of  the  cella  rises  only  two  feet 
above  the  ground.  We  employed  some  Turks  to  excavate,  and  we 
discovered  some  frusta  of  the  Doric  order,  of  which  the  flutings 
were  thirteen  inches  wide,  and  the  diameter  of  the  whole  column 
seven  feet  three  inches.  These  dimensions  considerably  exceed 
those  of  the  Parthenon  and  of  the  Olympieion  at  Athens,  and  are 
probably  larger  than  the  columns  of  any  temple  that  was  ever 
erected  in  Greece.  We  also  found  part  of  a  small  column  of  Parian 
marble,  which  the  intervals  of  the  flutings  show  to  have  been  of  the 
Ionic,  or  Corinthian  order.  It  was  too  small1  to  have  belonged  to 
the  interior  range  of  columns,  but  perhaps  formed  a  part  of  the  in- 
closure  of  the  throne  of  Jupiter.5 

The  great  dimensions  of  the  temple  are  particularly  mentioned 
by  Strabo,4  and  the  details  and  measurements  that  are  given  of  it  by 


1  The  Pliilippeion  was  a  circular  edifice,  Pausan.  b.  6.  c.  20. 
One  foot  eight  inches  in  diameter.  3  See  Pausan.  b.  5.  c.  11. 

4  B.  8.  p.  353  ;  he  calls  it  xipjj.eyiirhy. 


TEMPLE  OF  JUPITER  OLYMPICS.  335 

Pausanias  are  extremely  interesting  to  the  architect,  but  not  quite 
so  clear  as  might  be  wished. 

It  was  built  of  the  stone  called  Poros,  which  was  found  near  the 
spot,1  and  of  which  Theophrastus  *  and  Pliny3  compare  the  hardness 
and  colour  to  that  of  Parian  marble,  though  it  was  of  less  specific 
gravity. 

The  stone,  however,  of  which  the  ruins  are  composed,  retains  none 
of  the  characteristics  mentioned  by  these  authors,  except  its  light- 
ness. It  is  of  a  sand  colour,  soft,  brittle,  and  full  of  holes ;  as  it  is 
composed  of  shells  and  concretions  which  probably  owe  their  forma- 
tion to  the  waters  of  the  Alpheios.  Some  remains,  which  are  still 
visible,  render  it  evident  that  the  columns  were  covered  with  a  fine 
white  stucco,  about  the  tenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  which  gave 
them  the  appearance  of  marble ;  and  which  might  easily  have  im- 
posed upon  inaccurate  observers.  Not  only  the  great  dimensions 
of  the  columns,  which  are  found  amongst  the  ruins,  corroborate  a 
supposition  that  this  is  actually  the  temple  of  Jupiter,  but  the  con- 
jecture seems  to  be  confirmed  by  the  black  marble  which  we  found 
in  excavating,  and  which,  according  to  Pausanias,  composed  the 
pavement  in  front  of  the  statue.  We  found  several  fragments  of 
the  slabs,  which  appear  to  have  been  about  six  inches  in  thickness. 
It  is  perfectly  black,  and  takes  a  fine  polish,  but  is  friable,  and  not 
of  a  very  hard  quality.  This  celebrated  temple  has  of  late  years 
suffered  considerable  demolitions.  The  Lalliotes,  who  inhabit  the 
neighbouring  town  of  Lalla,  have  even  rooted  up  some  of  the 
foundations  of  this  once  celebrated  sanctuary  in  order  to  use  the 
materials  in  the  construction  of  their  houses.  The  statue  of  the 
god,  the  finest  that  the  world  ever  beheld,  was  sixty  feet  in  height, 
and  was  reckoned  among  the  great  wonders.4     Indeed  it  seems  to 


1  citiy^wpiou  iruipov.     Pausan.  b.  5.  c.  10.  a  De  lapid. 

5  Nat.  Hist.  b.  36.  c.  17.     Pausanias  in  another  place  calls  it  vuipivos  Aifloj,  b.  6.  c    19- 
See  Hesych.  Lexic.  vol.  2.  p.  1091.  in  v.  Tfuiptvov  AiSiyov,  and  note  19  of  same  page. 

*  See    Hyginus,    fab.    223.       Dr.    Chandler   asserts  that   the    statue   was    removed  to 


336  TEMPLE  OF  JUPITER  OLYMPIOS. 

have  united  at  once  all  the  beauty  of  form,  and  all  the  splendor  of 
effect,  that  are  produced  by  the  highest  excellence  of  the  statuary 
and  the  painter.  It  was  embellished  with  various  metallic  orna- 
ments, aided  by  the  gorgeous  and  dazzling  magnificence  of  precious 
stones. 

We  ascended  a  hill  to  the  west  of  the  temple,  and  observed,  on  its 
summit,  some  ancient  vestiges,  and  large  blocks  of  stone.  This  spot 
commands  a  most  beautiful  view,  comprising  the  whole  of  the  rich 
Olympic  plain,  with  its  ruins,  its  winding  rivers,  and  surrounding 
hills,  scattered  with  trees.  The  Alpheios,1  at  Olympia,  is  broad  and 
rapid,  and  about  the  breadth  and  colour  of  the  Tiber  at  Rome;  and 
like  that  river,  varying  the  hue  of  its  stream,  according  to  the  nature 
of  the  soil  through  which  it  flows ;  being  clear  and  transparent  in  its 
rocky  channels  in  Arcadia,  and  yellow  and  opaque  in  the  rich  plains 
of  Eleia.  Both  the  Alpheios  and  the  Kladeos  were  revered  nearly 
as  divinities,  and  had  altars  dedicated  to  them,  and  were  personified 
on  the  temple  of  Jupiter. 

Having  remained  the  whole  of  the  day  in  drawing  and  examining 
the  temple  and  its  immediate  vicinity,  we  proceeded  towards  the 
village  of  Miraka,  which  is  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  plain, 
and  in  our  way  observed  some  faint  traces  of  banks  and  walls,  which 
may  have  been  the  hippodrome  and  stadium.  We  crossed  a  rivulet, 
which,  issuing  from  the  hills  on  the  left,  traverses  the  plain,  and 
enters  the  Alpheios.  A  few  remains  of  ancient  sepulchres  are 
observed  in  its  vicinity.  We  here  quitted  the  plain,  and  after  a 
gentle  ascent  of  a  few  minutes,  reached  the  village  of  Miraka,  which 
is  half  an  hour  from  the  temple. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  miserable  villages  in  Greece ;  the  cottages 


Constantinople  in  the  reign  of  Theodosius  the  Great,  and  that  the  games  were  then  abolished, 
and  the  counting  by  olympiads  ceased.  Travels  in  Greece,  c.  15.  p.  294.  About  Poly- 
chrome statues  in  general,  but  particularly  about  that  of  Jupiter  Olympios,  consult  the 
splendid  work  of  Monsieur  Quatremere  de  Quincy  in  fol.  Paris,  1814. 

1  The  Alpheios  produces  trout,  eels,  and  smaller  fish  in  abundance. 


A  TURKISH  PYRGOS.  337 

are  composed  of  wicker,  and  thatched.  In  some  of  the  meanest,  a 
single  aperture  serves  for  the  triple  purpose  of  door,  window,  and 
chimney.  The  inhabitants  are  all  Turks,  who  cultivate  the  rich 
Olympic  plain;  they  are  civil  to  strangers,  and  appear  a  quiet 
inoffensive  people.  Miraka  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Gastouni, 
and  the  agha  is  appointed  by  the  voivode  of  that  town.  The  only 
house  in  the  village  is  the  pyrgos  of  the  agha ;  and  as  Turkish  vil- 
lages are  universally  overawed  by  a  similar  edifice,  the  description  of 
that  at  Miraka  may  serve  for  all.  It  has  received  the  denomination 
of  pyrgos  from  its  height  and  tower-like  form ;  as  it  is  a  kind  of 
castellated  structure,  or  fortified  house,  bearing  a  resemblance  to 
the  smaller  kind  of  Highland  castles  in  Scotland,  which  were  con- 
structed about  300  years  ago.  It  is  four  stories  in  height.  The  walls 
which  inclose  the  ground  floor  have  one  door,  and  a  few  narrow 
apertures,  resembling  arrow-holes,  made  to  admit  the  light.  This 
floor  serves  for  horses  and  cattle,  and  has  no  communication  with 
the  upper  stories.  An  insulated  mass  of  wall,  with  steps  leading  to 
its  summit,  stands  at  the  distance  of  about  twelve  feet  from  the 
tower,  and  reaches  as  high  as  the  door  of  the  first  habitable  floor 
which  is  over  the  stables.  From  this  wall  to  the  entrance  of  the 
tower  there  is  a  draw-bridge,  or,  in  times  of  profound  peace,  some 
planks  of  wood,  which  are  not  removed  at  night.  The  floors  and 
stairs  within  the  tower  are  of  wood,  and  the  access  to  some  of  the 
most  secure  chambers  is  through  a  square  aperture  which  is  made 
in  the  ceiling  of  the  room  below,  and  sufficiently  large  to  admit  only 
one  person  at  a  time.  The  ascent  to  this  is  effected  by  a  temporary 
staircase  or  ladder,  which,  when  a  person  has  mounted,  may  be 
drawn  up,  and  the  hole  or  trap-door  closed. 

In  the  night  of  the  24th,  we  were  awoke  by  an  earthquake,  which 
caused  a  violent  concussion  of  the  tower.  The  agha,  with  great 
kindness,  came  into  our  room  to  assure  us  that  there  was  no  danger 
of  the  house  falling,  which  being  composed  of  pliable  materials, 
would  bend,  but  not  break. 

VOL.  II.  x  x 


338  VIEWS  OF  THE  OLYMPIC  PLAIN. 

From  an  eminence  near  the  village,  the  whole  of  the  Olympic 
plain  may  be  seen  in  a  most  beautiful  point  of  view.  The  eye  em- 
braces the  broad  and  sinuous  course  of  the  Alpheios,  with  the  green 
and  finely  feathered  hills,  decorated  with  the  elegant  umbrella  pine 
and  flowering  evergreens.  Another  view  towards  the  east  overlooks 
a  variegated  valley  bounded  by  the  Eleian  hills,  surmounted  by  the 
loftier  summits  of  Arcadia,  from  whose  sequestered  labyrinths — 

the  Alpheios  is  seen  eliciting  its  yellow  current,  which  glides  in  a 
broad  channel,  along  the  projecting  base  of  a  pointed  hill,  where  the 
ruins  of  Phrixa  meet  the  eye. 


Pindar,  Olymp.  3.  v.  48. 


h 
4 


b 


CHAPTER  IX. 

To  Palaio  Phanari,  probably  Phrixa — Passage  of  the  Alpheios — Ruins  of  Phrixa — To  Brina— 
Kaiapha — Ruins  of  Samikon — River  Anigros — Caves  of  the  Anagriades  and  Atlantides — 
Khan  of  Agios  Isodoros — Uncertainty  concerning  the  situation  of  Pylos — Ruins  of  an 
ancient  city  near  Strobitza,  probably  Lepreos — River  Boutzi,  the  Neda — Town  of  Arkadia, 
the  ancient  Cyparissiai — To  Kleisoura — To  Constantino — Danger  of  being  taken  by  thieves — 
Pass  by  a  castle  which  was  occupied  by  them — See  them  besieged  in  the  village  of  Aletouri 
—Captain  of  the  thieves — Plain  ofMessenia — To  Mauro  Mati,  the  ancient  Messene — Ruins 
of  a  triangular  bridge  over  the  confluence  of  two  rivers— Deserted  monastery  and  mag- 
nificent view — Village  of  Mauro  Mati — Mount  Ithome — Ruins — Panoramic  view  from  its 
summit— Ruins  of  Messene — Walls  of  the  city — Great  gates. 


TO  PALAIO  PHANARI.    PHRIXA. 

W  E  remained  at  Miraka  and  its  vicinity  for  two  days,  and  on  the 
27th  of  January  proceeded  on  our  journey.  We  descended  by 
gentle  slopes  to  a  plain,  and  crossed  two  streams,  both  of  which  are 
tributary  to  the  current  of  the  Alpheios.  The  plain  we  had  passed 
was  composed  of  the  richest  soil,  but  which  had,  nevertheless,  in- 
cited only  a  partial  cultivation.  This  is,  in  fact,  part  of  the  Olympic 
plain,  but  from  which  it  is  almost  separated  by  the  ridge  of  hills 
near  Miraka,  that  advance  almost  to  the  confines  of  the  Alpheios. 

We  crossed  the  river  in  a  monoxylon;  but  the  stream  was  so 
rapid  and  intractable,  that  it  was  two  hours  and  a  half  before  we 
had  got  every  thing  over.  As  only  one  person  at  a  time  can  em- 
bark in  the  monoxylon,  besides  the  two  rowers,  who  sit  at  its  oppo- 
site extremities,  it  was  necessary  to  row  it  frequently  backwards 
and  forwards  across  the  stream. 

It  is  not  probable  that  any  bridge  was  ever  erected  over  the  Al- 
pheios, in  the  vicinity  of  Olympia,  owing  to  the  impetuosity  as  well 

x  x  L2 


340  PASSAGE  OF  THE  ALPHEIOS. 

as  breadth  of  the  current  after  rains,  and  the  melting  of  the  snow 
on  the  Arcadian  mountains.  Pindar'  tells  us,  that  the  tomb  of 
Oenomaos  was  near  the  passage  of  the  Alpheios,  A\<peov  voou ;  and 
Pausanias  *  affirms,  that  it  was  near  the  Kladeos ;  so  that  it  appears 
the  passage  was  in  the  vicinity  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter,  at  the 
western  extremity  of  the  plain.  But  Pausanias  seems  to  have 
crossed  over  where  we  did,  opposite  the  town  of  Phrixa.5  There 
were  accordingly  two  passages.  The  word  nogo?  ma}-,  however,  be 
used  by  Pindar  merely  to  signify  the  stream ;  as  it  appears  to  have 
been  employed  by  Homer +  in  a  similar  sense. 

The  monoxylon  is  the  trunk  of  a  large  tree  hollowed  out,  flat  at 
one  extremity  and  pointed  at  the  other.  It  is  whirled  about  by  the 
violence  of  the  stream,  and  carried  down  a  considerable  way  before 
it  reaches  the  opposite  shore.  It  is  directed  by  two  oars,  which  also 
serve  as  rudders,  and  are  shaped  nearly  like  an  English  spade. 

This  kind  of  boat  was  used  by  the  ancients ;  they  are  the  povoZvXa. 
irXoia.  of  Poly bius,5  and  are  alluded  to  by  Virgil.6 

"  Tunc  alnos  fluvii  primum  seusere  cavatas." 

The  passage  of  the  horses  was  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  under- 
taking. Sticks  and  stones  were  employed  to  drive  them  into  the 
water,  when  they  swam  to  the  other  side,  after  having  been  impelled 
for  a  considerable  distance  down  the  stream,  not  without  some 
danger  of  being  drowned.  We  landed  at  the  wooded  foot  of  a  steep 
and  picturesque  hill,  whose  pointed7  summit  is  descried  from  the 
ruins  of  Olympia.  We  ascended  by  a  narrow  and  dangerous  path, 
bordered  by  the  precipitous  banks  of  the  Alpheios  on  our  left,  and 
by  projecting  rocks  on  our  right,  against  which  we  bruised  our  knees 


1  AXfuu  ■gopu  xlrieis 

Tvu.fi'jv  au.SiTToKiY. Olvmp.  I  v.  148. 

«  Aia^avlxy  8s  7jv  KAaJesy  laps  h  OiK>,a«oy,  yrts  yy>u.a.  •nspMM8tiLrliuytis>  b.  6.  c.  21. 

3  Loc.  cit.  4  Iliad,  2.  v.  592.  sB.3.  6  Georg.  1.  v.  136. 

'  Alps  ztIw  ayriMuy  $7  o%u,  Pausan.  b.  6.  c.  21. 


RUINS  OF  PHRIXA.  341 

and  feet  in  endeavouring  to  avoid  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  Two 
of  our  luggage  horses,  who  were  prevented  by  the  projection  of  the 
luggage  from  keeping  sufficiently  to  the  right,  rolled  down  the  pre- 
cipice to  the  left,  and  must  have  been  dashed  to  pieces  if  their  fall 
had  not  been  mitigated  by  the  beds  and  sacks  with  which  they  were 
loaded,  and  stopped  by  the  trees  in  the  descent. 

It  took  us  near  an  hour  (not  including  stoppages)  in  ascending 
from  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  village  of  Palaio  Phanari.  We 
were  entertained  in  the  pyrgos  of  a  Turk,  brother-in-law  of  Mus- 
tapha  agha  of  Lalla,  who  gave  us  a  kind  and  hospitable  reception. 
Palaio  Phanari  is  inhabited  by  Greeks,  and  composed  of  thatched 
cottages,  like  Miraka.  The  summit  of  the  pointed  hill,  which  rises 
a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  the  village,  is  crowned  with  the  re- 
mains of  a  fortress,  or  acropolis,  probably  that  of  Phrixa,  consisting 
of  large  square  blocks,  which  composed  the  walls.  Herodotus' 
attributes  the  foundation  of  this  place  to  the  Minyans.  According 
to  Stephanus,*  Pherecydes  places  it  in  Arcadia.  It  was  thirty  stadia 
from  Olympia.  The  view  from  hence  is  as  extensive  as  interesting, 
and  it  is  probable  that  Palaio  Phanari  was  anciently  the  station  of 
a  telegraphic  beacon,  as  its  modern  name  seems  to  indicate. 

Towards  the  west  we  catch  a  faint  glimpse  of  the  Ionian  sea, 
whose  blue  horizon  just  emerges  above  the  green  and  undulating 
summits  of  the  Eleian  hills,  between  which,  and  Palaio  Phanari,  the 
Alpheios  is  seen  winding  in  many  mseanders  through  the  level  and 
verdant  meads  of  Olympia,  to  its  confluence  with  the  sea.  Katakolo 
Kastro  is  perceived  as  a  spot  upon  the  coast.  Miraka,  and  its  pro- 
jecting hills,  that  almost  divide  the  Olympic  plain  from  that  near 
Palaio  Phanari,  appeared  almost  beneath  our  feet.  The  town  of 
Lalla5  is  conspicuously  situated  on  some  fiat  hills  towards  the  north, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.     To  the  east  is  another  extensive 


1  B.  4.  c.  148.  about  11 49  years  B.  C.  ■  De  Urbib.  v.  pf*x«,  p.  744. 

'  This  town  contains  about  a  thousand  houses ;  the  inhabitants  all  Turks.     It  is  a  recent 
place,  and  its  population  is  rapidly  increasing. 


342  VIEW  FROM  THE  RUINS  OF  PHRIXA. 

plain,  connected  by  a  narrow  inlet  with  the  plain  of  Phrixa;  this 
plain  is  bounded  by  the  Arcadian  mountains,  and  animated  by  the 
sinuous  current  of  the  Alpheios.  The  nearer  hills  are  covered  with 
forests ;  and  the  distant  mountains  appeared  well  wooded,  but  the 
winter  season  had  thrown  over  them  a  sombre  and  melancholy 
shade. 

The  next  morning,  as  we  were  mounting  our  horses  to  quit  the 
village,  the  Turk  ordered  a  goat  to  be  killed  for  our  use.  The  long 
bearded  animal  was  accordingly  dragged  out  by  the  horns,  and  the 
knife  was  already  raised,  when  we  interceded  for  its  life,  alleging 
the  difficulty  of  taking  it  with  us,  and  of  profiting  by  the  hospitable 
donation. 


TO  BRINA. 

We  quitted  Palaio  Phanari  on  the  28th,  and  crossed  a  small 
stream,  and  went  through  some  beautifully  tortuous  vales,  in  a  state 
of  variegated  cultivation,  and  bounded  by  hills  covered  with  the 
waving  pine.  There  was  something  so  peculiarly  beautiful  in  this 
country  that  it  appeared  a  region  of  enchantment,  as  if  we  had 
reached  in  our  long  progress  the 


"  — — — —  Locos  leetos,  et  amaena  vireta ' 
Fortunatorum  nemorum,  sedesque  beatas." 

We  proceeded  in  a  direction  nearly  south-west,  and  after  crossing 
some  rivulets,  came  in  three  hours  from  Palaio  Phanari  to  a  spot 


'  Virgil  ^Eneid,  4.  v.  638. 


VILLAGE  OF  BRINA.  343 

where  the  fields  are  scattered  with  broken  tiles,  and  small  stones, 
indicating  perhaps  the  site  of  one  of  the  ancient  villages  with  which 
this  country  once  abounded.  We  soon  after  approached  some 
Turkish  tombs,  and  observed  the  village  of  Mundritza  on  our  left. 
The  road  continued  through  the  beautiful  pine  forests :  Ave  crossed 
a  stream,  and  passed  over  the  ruins  of  a  village,  or  town,  known  by 
a  quantity  of  broken  tiles  dispersed  about  the  fields.  The  village 
Krestina  was  perched  on  a  pretty  hill  to  the  right ;  after  which  we 
crossed  a  small  rivulet.  In  the  evening  we  reached  the  village  of 
Brina,'  in  an  attractive  situation.  It  is  composed  of  thatched  cot- 
tages, inhabited  by  Greeks.  We  were  five  hours  and  a  quarter  in 
going  from  Palaio  Phanari  to  this  place,  a  computed  distance  of 
about  fifteen  miles  and  a  half;  but  as  the  roads  were  superlatively 
bad,  the  distance  cannot  be  calculated  with  much  accuracy.  The 
fruit  trees  at  Brina  were  all  in  blossom ;  but  this  early  flower  falls ; 
and,  when  the  winter  is  over,  the  others  appear;  it  is  this  second 
blossom  which  gives  birth  to  the  fruit. 

Near  the  village  rises  a  fine  pointed  hill,  the  summit  of  which  is 
at  the  distance  of  an  hour.  We  were  informed  that  the  remains  of 
a  palaio  kastro,  or  ancient  city,  may  be  seen  upon  this  summit, 
but  neglected  visiting  it.  The  hill  may  be  the  ancient  Minthe, 
which  was  near  one  of  the  towns  of  Pylos.1 

We  ascended  a  rising  ground  above  Brina,  in  order  to  have  a 
view  of  the  sea,  as  we  were  told  that,  in  clear  weather,  the  Stro- 
phades3  were  visible  from  this  spot,  but  we  could  not  distinguish 
them,  though  the  sky  was  serene.  The  island  of  Zakunthos  is  how- 
ever distinctly  perceived. 

Katakolo,*  or  Pondlko  Kastro,  is  distinguished  on  the  Eleian  shore, 
as  well  as  the  ancient  city  near  Kaiapha,5  and  the  tivo  Ahxtpot  moun- 
tain,6 which  is  also  seen  from  Patra. 


1  Pronounced  Vrina.  *  Strabo,  b.  S.  p.  344, 

3  Strabo  says  that  they  are  400  stadia  from  land,  and  belonged  to  the  Cyparissians,  b.  8. 
p.  359.         *  Bearing  N.  P5— 30.  W.  5  Bearing  S.  W.  by  W.         6  Bearing  N.  4  E. 


344  RUINS  OF  SAMIKON. 


TO  THE  KHAN  OF  AGIOS  ISIDOROS. 

We  quitted  this  pastoral  village  on  the  29th,  and  in  half  an  hour 
passed  a  fountain,  and  entered  a  beautiful  forest  of  evergreens,  con- 
sisting principally  of  the  stone  pine.  The  roads  were  scarcely  pass- 
able, and  our  luggage  horses  were  continually  falling,  and  occasioned 
considerable  delay. 

In  an  hour  from  Brina  we  reached  the  kalybia  of  a  village  named 
Kallonia,  which  is  seen  on  a  hill  to  the  left.  We  passed  through 
a  rich  agricultural  plain,  and  in  forty  minutes  from  the  kalybia 
arrived  at  a  derbeni  or  custom-house,  above  which  rises  a  rocky  hill 
crowned  with  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city,  probably  Samikon.  The 
walls  and  square  towers  are  well  preserved,  and  are  composed  of  the 
second  and  third  styles.  A  violent  storm  by  which  we  were  over- 
taken, discouraged  us  from  visiting  these  ruins,  which  were  probably 
interesting. 

Strabo  *  and  Pausanias  *  take  Samikon  to  be  the  same  as  Arene, 
which  Homer5  places  near  the  river  Anigros.  The  topographer* 
calls  the  city  Samia,  and  the  mountain  Samikon.  It  was  celebrated 
for  a  temple s  of  the  Samian  Neptune,  which  was  in  a  grove  of  wild 
olives.  *  It  was  a  castle  as  well  as  a  city,  and  perhaps  took  its 
name  from  its  lofty  situation,  as  the  Greeks  called  high  places  2a^o<.7 
If  Strabo  can  be  trusted,  Samikon  was  demolished  before  his  time. 
This  place  is  at  present  called  indifferently  Derbeni,  and  Kaiapha  or 
Kleidi,8  "  the  key,"  as  it  forms  the  division  or  key  of  two  contiguous 
plains.  The  foot  of  the  hills  is  on  the  confines  of  an  extensive 
marsh,  covered  with  firs  reaching  to  the  sea,  which  appeared  at  the 


1  B.  8.  p.  346.  *  B.  5.  c.  6.  s  Iliad,  2.  v.  591.  *  Loc.  cit. 

5  tspov.    Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  343.  6  aypitXaiov.     Ibid.  '  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  346. 

3  From  K^ejJiOK,  a  key. 


CAVES  OF  THE  ANIGRIADES  AND  ATLANTIDES.  345 

distance  of  less  than  half  a  mile  to  the  west.  A  precipice  which 
rises  near  the  marsh  contains  two  large  caves,  with  one  of  smaller 
size.  The  waters  of  the  marsh  and  of  some  springs  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill  enter  the  cave.  We  saw  them  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hun- 
dred yards,  but  they  are  accessible  only  by  means  of  a  boat;  and 
as  we  had  not  such  a  means  of  conveyance,  we  were  obliged  to  re- 
linquish our  desire  of  examining  them. 

Strabo  '  mentions  the  two  caves,  one  of  which  was  sacred  to  the 
nymphs  Anigriades,  while  the  other  was  famous  for  the  adventures 
of  the  Atlan tides,  and  for  the  birth  of  Dardanus,  son  of  Jupiter  and 
Electra,  daughter  of  Atlas,  king  of  Arcadia.  Both  Strabo  and  Pau- 
sanias  *  mention  the  bad  smell  of  the  Anigros,  and  both  relate  the 
same  story  of  its  being  occasioned  by  the  Centaurs  bathing  in  its 
waters,  and  by  Melampos  having  employed  them  as  the  medium 
of  purifying  the  daughters  of  Prcetos.  Pausanias,5  however,  with 
more  than  his  usual  freedom  on  such  occasions,  says  that  the  Ani- 
gros is  fetid  from  its  very  source,  which  is  at  Mount  Lapithos,  in 
Arcadia.  He  adds,  that  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  often  retarded 
in  its  influx  into  the  sea  by  the  violence  of  the  winds  which  prevent 
the  progression  of  its  waters.4  It  is  now  called  Mauro-Potamo, 
or  the  Black  river.  In  the  rainy  season  in  the  Roman  territory,  the 
scirocco  or  south-east  wind  predominates,  and  blows  with  such 
violence  at  Ostia,  that  the  current  of  the  Tiber  sometimes  stagnates 
at  its  mouth,  which  occasions  inundations  in  many  parts  of  Latium, 
particularly  at  Rome.  A  similar  cause  produces  a  similar  effect  in 
the  Anigros,  and  forms  the  marshes  in  the  vicinity  of  Samikon. 
Strabo  says  the  marshes  have  been  produced  by  the  fountain  near 
the  cave  of  the  Anigriad  nymphs  mixing  with  the  Anigros,  which  is 
deep  but  sluggish,  while  the  surrounding  country  is  sandy  and  low. 

On  quitting  this  place  we  crossed  a  river  which  descends  from 
the  hills  on  the  left.     This  is  either  the  Anigros  or  the  Iardanos,  but 

1  B.  8.  p.  346.  *  B.  5.  c.  .5.  s  Loc.  cit.  *  Loc.  cit. 

VOL.  II.  Y   Y 


346         UNCERTAIN  SITUATION  OF  THE  TOWNS  OF  PYLOS. 

the  country  was  so  much  overflowed,  that  it  was  difficult  to  dis- 
criminate the  rivers  from  the  marsh. 

In  forty  minutes  we  traversed  a  grove  of  pines  growing  in  a  deep 
sand,  and  saw  a  reservoir  for  fish,  which,  in  summer  time,  are  ad- 
mitted by  a  canal  which  is  afterwards  closed  by  sand  banks,  as  was 
the  case  when  we  saw  it.  Near  this  are  the  ruins  of  a  modern  tower. 
In  two  hours  and  twenty  minutes  from  the  derbeni,  we  arrived  at 
the  khan  of  Agios  Isidoros,  which  is  situated  near  the  sea.  A 
stream  flowing  from  the  hills  on  the  east  enters  the  sea  near  the 
khan.  From  this  place  the  island  of  Prote  is  visible  towards  the 
south-south-west.  We  were  informed  that  the  small  remains  of  an 
ancient  city  are  observed  at  a  village  called  Biskini,  about  an  hour 
from  the  khan.  This  spot  is  in  the  mountains,  and  the  river  runs 
near  it  which  passes  by  the  khan.  A  short  distance  from  the  ruins 
is  another  village  called  Zakaro.  The  river  may  be  the  Ainathos, 
and  the  ruins  may  indicate  the  site  of  the  Triphyliatic,  or  Lepreatic 
Pylos.  None  of  the  authors  who  have  written  on  the  subject  of  the 
three  towns  of  Pylos,1  have  ever  been  able  definitively  to  determine 
which  was  the  city  of  Nestor.  The  site  of  two  of  those  towns  is  at 
present  unknown.  The  Koryphasian,  or  Messenian  Pylos,  is  the 
only  one  which  is  ascertained,  and  is  now  occupied  by  the  town  of 
Nabarino,  opposite  the  small  islands  of  Sphakteria,2  or  Sphagiae. 


TO  ARKADIA,  CYPARISSIAI. 

January  30th,  we  quitted  the  khan  of  St.  Isidoros,  and  crossed  the 
stream  which  comes  from  Biskini.     Our  way  led  us  in  a  direction 

'  See  Strabo,  b.  8.  »See  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  34. 


RUINS  OF  LEPREOS.  347 

between  south  and  south-east,  through  a  plain  of  common  and 
Indian  corn,  bounded  on  the  right  by  the  sea  and  by  sand-banks, 
while  gentle  hills  terminated  it  on  the  left.  One  hour  from  the 
khan  we  crossed  a  small  rivulet,  and  turned  to  the  left  towards  the 
hills  for  the  purpose  of  inspecting  an  ancient  city.  Forty  minutes 
from  the  above-mentioned  stream  we  passed  by  a  deserted  house, 
and  entered  a  narrow  cultivated  plain,  bounded  by  pretty  hills  well 
wooded,  particularly  with  the  round  topped  pine.  This  may  be 
the  iEpasian  plain.'  We  came  to  a  kalybia  of  thatched  cottages 
belonging  to  the  town  of  Strobitza.  To  the  right  was  a  rapid  stream 
running  in  a  westerly  direction  to  the  sea.  We  passed  a  rivulet, 
and  ascended  by  an  almost  trackless  way  through  a  forest  of  firs, 
and  in  three  hours  from  the  khan  reached  the  first  traces  of  the 
city  of  which  we  were  in  search.  A  rapid  rivulet  ran  near  us  down 
the  hill,  turning  some  small  mills  in  its  course.  We  employed 
half  an  hour  in  ascending  from  the  first  traces  to  the  acropolis. 
Two  entire  gates  are  remaining  of  the  common  square  form.  One 
of  them  is  almost  buried  under  the  ruins  and  earth  which  reach 
nearly  to  its  architrave.  The  towers  are  square ;  one  of  them  is 
almost  entire,  and  contains  a  small  window  or  arrow  hole.  A 
transverse  wall  is  carried  completely  across  the  acropolis,  by  which 
means  it  was  anciently  divided  into  two  parts.  The  foundation 
of  this  wall,  and  part  of  the  elevation,  still  remain. 

Three  different  periods  of  architecture  are  evident  in  this  fortress. 
The  walls  are  composed  of  polygons  :  some  of  the  towers  consist  of 
irregular,  and  others  of  rectangular  quadrilaterals.  The  ruins  extend 
far  below  the  acropolis  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  and  are  seen  on  a  flat 
detached  knoll.  It  was  evidently  an  extensive  city.  Its  situation 
corresponds  nearly  to  that  of  Lepreos  in  Triphylia,  which  in  earlier 
times  was  the  country  of  the  Caucons.  Callimachus2  calls  it 
YLuvkmuv  vJoXntlgov.  It  seems  to  have  been  an  inferior  city  in  the 
time  of  the  Persian  war ;  and  its  contingent  at  the  battle  of  Plataea 

'  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  348.  *  Hymn  1.  v.  39. 

Y  Y  2 


348  RUINS  OF  LEPREOS. 

was  only  two  hundred  men.  Herodotus*  says  that  Lepreos  was 
built  by  those  Minyans,  who  were  driven  from  Lemnos  by  the 
Pelasgi.' 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  this  place  towards  the  north,  is  the 
town  of  Strobitza,  inhabited  by  Turks  and  Greeks. 

Between  five  and  six  miles  towards  the  south-east  is  Graditza,  a 
village  near  the  ancient  city  of  Phigalia;  another  village  named 
Paulitza  is  in  the  same  vicinity. 

An  extensive  view  is  enjoyed  from  this  place.  The  Strophades 
are  faintly  distinguished  at  a  great  distance.  Towards  the  south  a 
high  mountain  is  visible  from  afar;  but  its  ancient  name  is  unknown. 
Near  its  foot  a  point  of  land  stretches  out  into  the  sea  :  beyond  this 
point  we  may  discern  the  round  summit  of  the  small  island  of  Prote.5 
The  nearer  hills  are  round  and  undulating,  and  the  intermediate  glens 
and  valleys  in  a  state  of  florid  cultivation. 

The  town  of  Philiatra  was  concealed  by  an  intervening  hill ;  but  a 
great  cypress  near  it  was  distinguished  like  a  black  point.  Mount 
Tetragi,  which  is  a  branch  of  Lycaeon,  and  the  sinuous  valley  of  the 
river  Neda,  are  also  visible. 

We  remained  at  this  place  two  hours  and  a  quarter,  which,  how- 
ever, was  by  no  means  sufficient  for  a  satisfactory  examination  of 
these  ruins ;  but  we  had  a  long  journey  to  make  to  reach  Arkadia,4 
the  ancient  Cyparissiai,5  where  we  proposed  to  pass  the  night. 

In  thirty-five  minutes  we  reached  the  base  of  the  hill,  and  crossed 
the  rivulet  which  I  noticed  in  my  way  to  this  place,  and  twenty 
minutes  beyond  it  we  crossed  a  river,  went  through  a  plain  covered 
with  corn,  closed  on  the  left  with  hills  wooded  with  pines.  One 
hour  from  the  first-mentioned  stream  we  passed  over  the  remains 


'  B.  1.  c.  148.         *  About  1149  years  B.  C. 
3  Now  called  Prodauo.     It  was  deserted  iu  the  time  of  Thucydides.     B.  4.  c.  1. 

4  I  have  written  the  name  of  this  town  with  the  k,  in  order  to  distinguish  it  from  the  ancient 
territory  of  that  name,  which  I  have  written  with  the  c. 

5  It  is  written  indifferently  in  the  singular,  or  the  plural,  in  ancient  authors.     I  have  fol- 
lowed Pausanias. 


THE  RIVER  NEDA.  349 

of  a  city,  consisting  of  irregular  block  foundations  and  traces,  and  a 
great  quantity  of  small  stones  and  broken  tiles,  probably  remains  of 
the  ancient  Pyrgos,  which  was  the  last  town  of  Triphylia,  and  near 
the  river  Neda.1 

We  afterwards  passed  by  some  thatched  cottages,  and  crossed 
a  bridge  over  the  Neda,  now  known  by  the  name  of  Boutzi.  It 
is  not  broad,  but  deep  ;  and,  after  hard  rains,  so  rapid,  that  some 
years  ago  its  impetuous  violence  demolished  one  of  the  arches  of  the 
bridge.  It  now  consists  of  one  high  pointed  arch,  and  the  remains 
of  a  smaller  one,  the  summit  of  which  is  broken,  but  rendered  pass- 
able by  planks  of  wood.  On  arriving  at  the  opposite  side  we  rested 
a  short  time  at  a  khan. 

The  Neda  rises  in  Arcadia,  on  the  west  side  of  Mount  Lycaeon, 
forming  a  deep  and  rocky  glen ;  on  the  right  bank  of  which  are  the 
ruins  of  Phigalia,  about  two  hours  from  this  spot.  Strabo2  says  that  it 
separates  Triphylia  and  Messenia,  and  enters  the  sea  where  the  Pyr- 
gitai,  the  last  people  of  Triphylia,  join  the  Cyparissians,  the  first 
people  of  Messenia. 

Continuing  our  way  through  some  swamps  and  pine  forests,  we 
approached  the  sea,  which  was  on  our  right,  and  crossed  a  clear  and 
shallow  river  which  has  changed  its  course.  A  fine  bridge,  which 
was  built  over  it,  now  remains  useless ;  and  the  Turks  are  too  indo- 
lent, or  too  ignorant,  to  turn  the  stream  under  the  bridge,  which 
might  be  effected  with  much  less  labour  and  expense  than  would  be 
requisite  for  the  construction  of  another. 

We  went  near  a  pointed  insulated  hill  called  Landanoi ;  from  the 
examination  of  which  we  were  prevented  by  the  darkness  of  the 
night.  It  presented  a  very  acropolis-like  appearance  ;  but  we  were 
assured  that  it  contained  not  the  smallest  vestiges  of  antiquity. 
After  passing  through  some  olive-groves  we  reached  Arkadia.  We 
had  prosecuted  our  journey  for  three  hours  in  the  dark.  This  town 
is  three  hours  and  twenty  minutes  from  the  khan  near  the  Neda. 

1  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  349.  s  B.  8.  p.  348. 


350  REMAINS  OF  CYPARISSIAI. 

We  Avere  received  in  the  house  of  the  English  agent,  Doctor  Anas- 
tasio  Pasqualigo ;  and,  instead  of  the  scant}r  fare  that  is  usually 
found  at  such  places,  we  were  treated  with  a  most  preposterous  pro- 
fusion of  good  things.  We  had  sent  on  a  man  in  the  morning  to 
inform  him  that  we  should  arrive  there  that  evening.  When  we 
entered  his  house  we  found  every  thing  in  the  greatest  bustle,  and 
several  people  employed  in  preparing  almost  innumerable  dishes  for 
our  supper. 

After  we  had  sufficiently  dulled  the  edge  of  our  appetite,  the 
hospitable  doctor  would  not  be  satisfied  without  continuing  the  re- 
past till  morning.  He  almost  cried  if  we  refused  to  partake  of  a 
single  dish  out  of  an  assemblage  of  not  less  than  forty.  My  sto- 
mach was  never  so  strenuously  besieged ;  and  at  last  I  was  re- 
luctantly compelled  to  risk  the  displeasure  of  the  kind-hearted  man 
by  resolutely  refusing  to  eat  any  more.  We  paid  him  well  for  his 
trouble  and  expense  before  we  quitted  his  house;  but  we  expe- 
rienced much  difficulty  in  prevailing  upon  him  to  accept  of  any 
remuneration. 

Some  remains  of  the  acropolis  of  Cyparissiai  enclose  the  modern 
fortress,  which  is  in  ruins.  It  contains  one  mosque  and  some  houses 
for  the  garrison.  In  the  plain  near  the  town  are  the  few  remains  of  a 
small  Doric  temple.  The  view  from  hence  is  highly  interesting  and 
extensive.  The  eye  stretches  over  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Cyparis- 
sian  gulf  to  the  Ionian  sea,  in  which  the  Strophades,  with  the  more 
distant  islands  of  Zakunthos  and  Cephellania,*  are  faintly  visible. 
Towards  the  north  the  spectator  recognizes  Katakolo  Kastro,  Castel 
Tornese,  and  the  low  coast  of  Eleia,  which  scarcely  peers  above  the 
horizon.  At  the  extremity  of  this  low  coast  begins  the  Cyparissian 
gulf,  where  the  first  objects  are  the  hill  of  Samikon,3  the  khan  of 
Zakaro,  the  ancient  city  near  Strobitza,  and  the  range  of  the  Mes- 


1  Now  the  gulf  of  Arkadia. 
*  The  northern  extremity  of  Zakunthos  bears  N.  35.  W.     The  highest  part  of  Cephallenia 
N.  26.  W.  »  Bearing  N.  3  E. 


TOWN  OF  ARKADIA.  351 

senian  mountains,  overtopped  by  those  of  Arcadia,  amongst  which 
Olenos  is  the  most  conspicuous.  The  plain  and  acropolis  of  Cypa- 
rissiai,  and  the  modern  town,  terminate  the  view. 

Mount  Lyceeon,  and  the  temple  of  the  Apollo  Epikourios,  were 
concealed  by  the  intervening  hill  of  the  fortress.  When  I  afterwards 
visited  the  temple  of  Apollo,  I  clearly  saw  the  plain  and  acropolis 
of  Cyparissiai,  though  at  a  great  distance,  as  it  included  the  entire 
breadth  of  Messenia,  and  a  part  of  Arcadia. 

The  town  of  Arkadia  is  long  and  narrow,  and  contains  three 
mosques,  besides  that  in  the  fort:  the  inhabitants  are  Greeks  and 
Turks.     Its  population  probably  does  not  exceed  four  thousand. 

Pausanias1  speaks  slightly  of  Cyparissiai,  but  mentions  the  tem- 
ples2 of  Apollo  and  Minerva. 


TO  KLEISOURA. 


We  rested  at  Arkadia  two  days,  and  proceeded  on  the  2d  of  Fe- 
bruaiy,  with  an  intention  of  visiting  Messenia,  and  particularly 
Mount  Ithome.  The  voivode  informed  us  that  the  country  we  were 
anxious  to  explore  was  at  that  time  infested  with  banditti,  and  that 
he  could  not  permit  us  to  travel  without  guards.  He  begged,  there- 
fore, that  we  would  remain  some  days  longer  at  Arkadia,  until  his 
soldiers,  who  were  in  the  country,  should  return.  We  were,  how- 
ever, incredulous,  and  set  off,  much  against  the  will  of  the  voivode, 
and  of  our  host,  Pasqualigo.  We  little  imagined  that  we  were  run- 
ning headlong  into  the  very  midst  of  the  thieves ;  which,  however, 
was  actually  the  case,  and  which  might  have  cost  us  dear,  if  they 
had  not,  fortunately  for  us,  been  engaged  in  more  important  occu- 
pations.    Our  way  lay  through  some  olive-groves;  we  crossed  a 

1  B.  'I.  c.  36.  4  tspx. 


352  VIEW  OF  MOUNT  TAYGETON. 

stream,  saw  the  village  of  Memilliano  on  a  hill  to  the  right,  and 
passed  through  a  plain,  covered  with  shrubs  and  aromatic  plants, 
particularly  the  cistus.  In  twenty-five  minutes  from  Arkadia  we 
came  to  the  end  of  the  olive-grove,  and  observed  some  imperfect 
and  ambiguous  vestiges.  The  large  village  of  Brusi  is  seen  on  a 
hill  to  the  right;  we  were  told  that  it  Avas  ruined  by  the  Russians, 
during  their  incursion  into  this  country. 

We  crossed  a  river,  now  called  the  river  of  Arkadia,  probably  the 
ancient  Cyparisseis  ;*  and  half  an  hour  beyond  it  a  bridge  conducted 
us  over  the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent;  and  at  the  distance  of  one  hour  to 
the  left,  Sidero*  Kastro  was  visible  on  a  pointed  hill.  The  remains, 
which  are  modern,  are  probably  Venetian.  A  quarter  of  an  hour 
from  the  above-mentioned  bridge,  we  crossed  a  stream,  which,  with 
the  others  in  the  vicinity,  enter  the  larger  river  of  Arkadia,  the  Cy- 
parisseis of  the  ancients.  Forty  minutes  beyond  this  we  passed 
over  some  vestiges,  consisting  of  small  stones  and  tiles,  scattered 
about  a  plain :  these  uncertain  remains  are  very  common  in  Greece, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  decide  whether  they  are  of  ancient  or  modern 
date. 

Having  traversed  a  forest  of  plane  trees,  the  village  of  Markopi 
was  conspicuously  situated  on  a  hill  to  the  right.  We  went  near  a 
small  ruined  church,  and  saw  a  hill  to  the  left,  called  Lapi,  which, 
as  we  were  informed,  was  distinguished  by  the  ruins  of  a  kastro, 
probably  of  Venetian  construction.  We  afterwards  crossed  a  bridge 
over  a  rivulet;  and,  soon  after,  crossed  in  immediate  succession 
three  approximating  streams,  which  enter  a  marshy  plain,  cultivated 
with  Indian  corn.  From  this  spot  we  had  the  first  view  of  Tay- 
geton,  towering  above  the  mountains  of  Messenia,  in  a  direction 
east-south-east,  and  covered  with  snow.  The  first  sight  of  the 
Spartan  mountain  revived  many  animating  recollections,  and  formed 
one  of  those  interesting  intervals  in  the  progress  of  my  tour,  in 
which  my  mind  appeared  as  if  fixed  upon  an  isthmus,  betwixt 
ancient  and  modern  times,  betwixt   the  old  world  and   the   new. 

'  Kuira.pur<ri)€is. — Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  349.  *  Iron  fort,  from  2»%o;. 


VILLAGE  OF  KLEISOURA.  353 

We  were  soon  bewildered  in  a  morass.  Our  horses,  as  usual,  slipped, 
plunged,  and  fell.  A  Greek,  who  was  accidentally  passing,  accom- 
panied us  for  twenty  minutes  to  the  village  of  Kleisoura,  and  perti- 
naciously refused  all  remuneration  for  his  services.  This  place  is 
five  hours  from  the  town  of  Arkadia ;  it  overlooks  a  rich  and  culti- 
vated plain.  Many  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  Greeks,  subsist  by 
the  honourable  employment  of  robbing.  It  is  not  the  system  of 
petty  highway  robbery,  or  burglary,  that  is  practised  in  England, 
but  spoliation  on  a  grander  scale,  and  which  is  considered  as  less 
infamous  and  disreputable.  In  this  more  aggrandised  process  of 
marauding,  whole  villages  are  plundered,  flocks  of  sheep,  and  herds 
of  cattle,  are  driven  away  from  the  rich  pastures  of  Messenia. 

This  village  takes  its  name  from  its  situation  near  the  gorge,  or 
defile,  which  enters  the  great  Messenian  plain ;  the  word  KXsttrovga, 
is  frequently  used  in  this  sense  by  the  Byzantine  historians,  and  is 
derived  from  the  Latin  Clusura  or  Clausura. '  These  passes  were 
generally  secured  by  a  tower  and  guard,  called  KX£/<ro^o<pyXaf,  the 
Clausurarum  Gustos  of  the  Latins,  and  answering  nearly  to  the  Der- 
beni  of  the  present  day. 

Near  the  village  are  some  imperfect  vestiges,  perhaps  of  the  city 
of  Dorion,  which  Pausanias2  places  between  Andania  and  Cypa- 
rissiai,  where  the  Muses3  are  said  to  have  deprived  Thamyris  of  the 
powers  of  vision  as  well  as  those  of  song.  According  to  Strabo,4 
some  maintained  that  Dorion  was  a  mountain,  others,  a  plain ;  and 
others  conceived  it  to  be  the  place  which,  in  his  time,  was  called 
Oluri,  or  Olura. 

During  the  night  of  the  2d,  it  rained  and  thundered  almost  inces- 
santly ;  on  the  3d,  the  same  weather  continued,  and  detained  us  at 
the  village ;  we  mounted  our  horses,  but  a  tremendous  storm  drove 

1  Du  Cange  Gloss,  ad  Script,  mediae  et  infimae  Latinitatis,  in  voce  Clausura?. 
5  B.  4.  c.  33. 

3  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  350. —  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  33.  who  cite  Homer  Iliad,  1.  v.  594. 

4  Loc.  cit. 

VOL.   II.  Z    Z 


354  A  CASTLE  OCCUPIED  BY  THIEVES. 

us  back  into  our  cottage,  where  we  were  happy  in  finding  shelter 
from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather. 

The  neighbourhood  of  Ithome  was  reputed  to  be  infested  by  ban- 
ditti ;  and  the  master  of  the  house  in  which  we  lodged,  strongly 
urged  us  not  to  proceed  thither,  except  under  the  protection  of 
some  of  the  inhabitants  of  Kleisoura.  On  this  occasion  a  certain 
degree  of  necessary  caution  got  the  better  of  our  incredulity,  and 
we  consented  to  be  accompanied  by  several  stout  and  well-armed 
Kleisouriotes,  who  swore  to  defend  us  at  the  hazard  of  their  lives. 
Thus  equipped,  we  set  out  on  the  4th :  forty-five  minutes  brought 
us  to  a  river  called  Kokla,  running  southwards ;  twenty  minutes 
further  we  passed  by  the  tomb  of  a  Turk,  who  had  fallen  by  the 
hands  of  those  marauders  a  year  before.  About  twenty  minutes 
further,  we  saw  on  our  right  a  pointed  hill,  crowned  with  a  ruined 
Venetian  castle,  which  is  called,  indifferently,  Palaio-kastro,  Klephto- 
kastro,  and  Mila-kastro.  This  was  the  most  dangerous  pass.  We 
descried  some  men  peeping  over  the  walls,  and  observing  our  move- 
ments. As  we  approached  they  fired  a  musket,  but  we  could  not 
determine  wdiether  it  was  directed  at  us,  or  was  intended  as  a  signal 
to  their  companions,  who  were  employed  in  the  country  about  the 
place.  The  road  we  were  compelled  to  take  was  within  musket 
shot  of  the  castle,  and  we  all  stood  on  the  alert,  expecting  every 
moment  to  be  attacked  by  the  band  of  professed  freebooters,  by 
whom  it  was  possessed.  Our  Kleisouriotes  now  made  ready  their 
arms,  and  I  am  confident  would  have  defended  us  resolutely  if  it 
had  been  necessary ;  but,  fortunately,  the  main  body  of  the  robbers 
was,  at  that  moment,  besieged,  as  it  afterwards  appeared,  in  a  vil- 
lage at  the  foot  of  Ithome,  and  even  our  party  would  have  been 
sufficiently  strong  to  resist  those  who  remained  in  the  fortress.  As 
we  proceeded,  a  continued  firing  of  musketry  was  heard  before  us; 
and  we  mounted  an  eminence,  to  observe  from  whence  it  came. 
The  spacious  expanse  of  the  rich  Messenian  plain,  encircled  by 
mountains,  particularly  Ithome,  burst  upon  our  sight  in  all  its 
beauty ;  but  objects  of  a  different  nature  now  attracted  our  more 


THE  THIEVES  BESIEGED  IN  THE  VILLAGE  OF  ALITOURI.     355 

immediate  attention.  At  about  five  hundred  yards  off  in  the  plain, 
we  saw  a  regular  battle  at  the  village  of  Alitouri ;  the  thieves,  to 
the  number  of  one  hundred  and  forty,  had  obtained  possession  of 
the  village ;  and  we  distinctly  observed  them  firing  from  the  windows 
of  the  houses  at  their  opponents,  who  surrounded  the  place.  The 
besieging  force  consisted  of  about  one  hundred  Greeks,  and  sixty 
Turks,  well  armed,  and  every  moment  expecting  reinforcements. 
This  state  of  the  affair  we  were  afterwards  enabled  to  ascertain,  for 
at  that  time  we  were  uncertain  what  party  was  respectively  the 
besieged  or  the  besiegers,  and  in  our  uncertainty  we  thought  it  pru- 
dent not  to  indulge  our  curiosity  too  far,  and  therefore  proceeded, 
with  as  much  expedition  as  untrodden  roads,  and  luggage  horses, 
would  permit,  to  a  neighbouring  village,  from  which  we  found  the 
inhabitants  had  fled,  owing  (as  we  were  afterwards  informed)  to  the 
menace  of  the  thieves  to  set  fire  to  their  habitations  during  the  night. 
We  here  met  thirty  armed  Greeks,  headed  by  a  papas,  also  armed,  who 
was  going  to  the  siege.  At  first  sight  we  apprehended  that  it  was  a 
reinforcement  of  thieves,  but  the  sight  of  the  papas  immediately  un- 
deceived us.  We  informed  them  of  what  we  had  seen,  which  impelled 
them  instantly  to  the  place  of  action.  We  crossed  a  small  stream, 
perhaps  the  Elektra,  or  the  Koios,  which  Pausanias"  places  between 
Andania  and  Dorion,  half  an  hour  beyond  which  we  reached  the 
village  of  Constantino.  This  place  is  sufficiently  populous  to  set 
the  thieves  at  defiance ;  and  here  we  accordingly  passed  the  night 
in  perfect  tranquillity.  The  inhabitants  are  Greeks.  Constantino 
was  out  of  our  road  to  Ithome ;  but  the  thieves  had  caused  the 
deviation.  Arriving  early  in  the  day,  and  observing  nothing  to 
attract  our  attention,  we  rode  to  a  hill  which  commands  a  view  over 
the  great  plain  of  Messenia.  I  placed  my  camera  obscura  on  a 
rock,  and  was  sufficiently  near  to  the  battle,  if  it  may  be  so  called, 
to  see  the  movements  of  the  combatants  reflected  upon  my  paper, 
and  to  distinguish  the  smoke  of  every  musquet  that  was  fired.     We 

1  B.  4.  c.  33. 
z  z  2 


356  THE  CAPTAIN  OF  THE  THIEVES. 

remained  all  the  afternoon  contemplating  this  curious  incident,  and 
drawing  the  interesting  objects  which  surrounded  us.  The  rich 
plain  of  Messenia  was  seen  in  its  full  extent,  with  Mount  Ithome, 
the  summits  of  Taygeton,  and  the  broad  Pamisos, '  winding  its  way 
through  the  vale  of  Stenykleros,  to  the  Koroneian  gulf. 

The  next  morning  a  Greek  brought  us  news  respecting  the  issue 
of  the  battle,  which  was  much  less  bloody  than  might  have  been 
expected  from  its  noise,  bustle,  and  duration.  Very  few  were  killed 
on  either  side.  In  the  night  the  thieves  cut  their  way  through  the 
besiegers,  and  effected  a  retreat  to  their  castle,  and  to  the  forests  in 
the  vicinity  of  Ithome.  They  were  headed  by  a  Greek,  the  terror 
of  the  Morea,  known  by  the  name  of  Captain  George,  who,  as  they 
told  us,  spared  neither  Greeks,  Turks,  nor  Franks.  Some  years  after 
this  event,  Sir  William  Gell,  during  another  tour  in  Greece,  had 
frequent  opportunities  of  seeing  and  conversing  with  the  captain 
who  had  caused  our  alarm.  He  had,  with  his  companions,  taken 
refuge  at  Zakunthos,  and  had  entered  into  the  English  service ;  the 
following;  account  of  him  is  extracted  from  a  letter  which  Sir  W.  Gell 
wrote  to  me  on  that  subject. 

"  His  name  is  George  Kolokotrone ;  he  was  at  Alitouri  when  we 
passed  by,  and  recollected  perfectly  well  seeing  us;  he  said  that, 
had  he  not  been  occupied  at  that  moment,  he  should  certainly  have 
taken  us,  but  being  Milordoi,  should  not  have  done  us  any  harm. 
He  was  delighted  to  hear  how  well  I  knew  all  the  mountains,  glens, 
and  strong  holds,  and  exclaimed  to  his  companions,  '  this  milordos 
knows  the  country  as  well  as  if  he  had  been  a  thief  himself;  he  has 
passed  through  my  hands/  He  then  danced  a  very  active  dance, 
like  a  bacchanal  on  a  vase." 

On  the  4th,  when  we  slept  at  Constantino,  it  rained  the  whole  of 
the  night. 


1  Strabo  says  the  Pamisos  is  the  largest  river  within  the  isthmus. — B.  8.  p.  361,  it  was  held 
sacred,  and  sacrifices  were  offered  to  it  as  to  a  divinity  by  Sybotas,  son  of  Dotadas. — Pau- 
sanias,  b.  4.  c.  3. 


TRIANGULAR  BRIDGE.  357 

We  were  advised  by  all  means  to  relinquish  our  intention  of  visit- 
ing Ithome  and  the  ruins  of  Messene ;  but  were  determined  not  to 
be  deterred  from  the  attempt,  by  the  danger  of  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  thieves  who  were  hovering  about  the  country  through 
which  we  had  to  pass. 

We  quitted  Constantino  on  the  5th,  and  having  proceeded  an 
hour,  saw  a  ruined  church  to  the  right,  and  the  village  of  Ali- 
touri,  where  the  thieves  had  fought  the  night  before.  Some  few 
peasants  were  already  returned  to  their  village.  Half  an  hour  from 
Alitouri,  we  crossed  a  curious  bridge,  perhaps  unique  in  Greece,  but 
resembling  that  at  Croyland,  in  Lincolnshire,  well  known  to  anti- 
quarians.' It  is  built  over  the  confluence  of  two  rivers,  which  run 
southwards  towards  the  plain  of  Stenykleros.  The  principal  stream 
must  be  the  Balyra,  and  the  other  probably  the  Leukasia,  or  the 
Amphitos,  both  of  which  entered  the  Balyra.2  The  lower  part  of 
the  bridge  is  ancient,  and  constructed  with  large  blocks  of  stone, 
with  two  pointed  buttresses,  that  are  still  left.  The  upper  part  of  the 
bridge  is  modern.     The  plan  is  three  angles  meeting  in  one  point. 

We  here  met  some  Turks ;  and  the  first  question,  after  the  usual 
salutation,  was  to  inquire  Avhich  road  the  thieves  had  taken? 
but  being  mutually  ignorant  of  their  route,  we  proceeded  towards 
Ithome,  not  without  some  apprehensions  of  falling  into  their  hands. 
We  crossed  a  rivulet  which  turns  a  mill,  and  observed  a  large  block 
of  stone  near  the  road,  which  our  guards  assured  us  the  Hellenes 
had  thrown  from  Ithome  upon  a  besieging  enemy.  After  crossing 
two  other  streams,  we  saw  on  our  right  the  village  of  Bolemi,  some 
way  up  the  side  of  the  mountain.  To  the  left  a  road  leads  to  the 
village  of  Lesi.  We  turned  to  the  right,  and  proceeded  towards  a 
monastery  on  the  side  of  Ithome,  ascending  by  a  steep  and  cir- 
cuitous track.  The  foot  of  the  mountain  is  composed  of  little  hills, 
intersected  by  small  valleys  cultivated  with  corn. 

'  See  Bibliotheca  Topographica  Britannica,  No.  22,  with  Mr.  Essex's  observations  on 
Croyland  bridge.  »  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  33. 


358  DESERTED  MONASTERY. 

We  passed  by  a  fountain,  and  a  beautiful  cluster  of  cypresses,  and 
in  the  afternoon  reached  a  monastery,  which  is  about  three  hours  from 
Constantino.  Nothing  can  surpass  the  beauty  and  interest  of  the  view 
from  this  solitary  spot.  The  magnificent  range  of  Taygeton  is  seen 
covered  with  snow,  and  broken  into  a  diversity  of  gigantic  forms, 
shooting  up  into  the  air,  far  above  the  rich  and  even  plains  of  Mes- 
senia.  The  continuity  of  the  outline  is  interrupted  by  the  grand 
cypresses  in  the  fore-ground.  Objects,  however,  of  a  serious  nature, 
as  immediately  affecting  our  personal  safety,  now  claimed  our  chief 
attention ;  and  I  was  compelled  to  abandon  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful views  in  Greece,  without  inserting  it  in  my  collection. 

The  monastery  is  of  considerable  extent;  to  our  disappointment 
we  found  it  deserted.  There  were  oxen  and  pigs  in  the  court-yard, 
and  in  one  of  the  rooms  we  found  a  fire  on  the  hearth,  and  two  cats, 
who  were  enjoying  the  remains  of  a  dinner  which  had  evidently 
served  for  several  persons,  who  had  probably  forsaken  the  place  a 
short  time  before  our  arrival.  Whether  these  had  been  the  monks 
who  had  fled  on  account  of  the  thieves,  or  the  thieves  themselves,  we 
could  not  ascertain.  We  wandered  about  the  deserted  cells  and 
silent  corridors,  but  no  human  being  could  be  found.  The  sin- 
gularity of  our  circumstances,  the  dreary  solitude  and  deep  silence 
of  the  monastery,  the  classic  ground  we  were  upon,  together  with 
the  magnificence  of  the  surrounding  scener}r,  were  powerfully 
impressive,  and  awakened  a  variety  of  emotions  in  my  mind. 
As  we  were  exhausted  with  fatigue,  and  had  a  stock  of  provisions 
with  us,  we  would  "willingly  have  rested  and  have  passed  the  night 
in  this  place;  but  our  guards,  as  if  struck  with  a  panic,  had  not 
resolution  to  combat  the  horror  that  seemed  inspired  by  the  mys- 
terious silence  which  reigned  throughout  the  place,  and  appeared 
to  breathe  suspicion  through  the  deserted  apartments.  We  found 
a  room  with  a  square  hole  in  the  ceiling,  like  those  I  have  described 
iu  a  former '  part  of  my  tour,  to  which  we  ascended  by  means  of 

1  At  Miraka.  vol.  2.  c.  S.  p.  337. 


MOUNT  ITHOME.  359 

a  ladder ;  this  became  a  kind  of  fortress,  as  soon  as  we  drew  up 
the  ladder  after  us,  and  closed  the  aperture.  But  our  guards  were 
so  thoroughly  convinced  that  the  thieves  were  hidden  in  the  monas- 
tery, and  that  they  would  find  means  to  effect  our  destruction 
during  the  night,  that,  with  considerable  reluctance,  we  remounted 
our  horses,  and  proceeded  half  an  hour  further  to  the  village  of 
Maura-Matia,'  situated  on  the  ruins  of  Messene,  at  the  southern 
foot  of  Mount  Ithome,  which  is  now  called  Bulkano.  It  rained 
the  greater  part  of  this  da}r,  and  during  the  whole  of  the  succeeding 
night.  We  went  to  the  cottage  of  the  papas,  which  was  the  best  in 
the  village,  consisting  of  a  long  room,  at  one  end  of  which  we  placed 
our  beds,  while  at  the  other,  end  the  daughter  of  the  papas,  being 
in  labour,  was  delivered  of  a  fine  boy  in  the  course  of  the  night. 


TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  ITHOME. 


The  next  day,  the  6th  of  February,  we  ascended  by  a  steep  and 
winding  way  to  the  summit  of  Ithome.  We  passed  by  several  blocks 
and  foundations,  and  in  a  small  plain  on  the  side  of  the  hill  observed 
the  few  remains  of  a  Doric  temple  of  moderate  proportions,  consisting 
of  some  columns  and  capitals,  and  blocks  of  the  cella  thrown  down, 
and  almost  covered  with  bushes.  There  was  a  bronze  statue  of 
Minerva  on  Ithome :  perhaps  this  was  the  temple  dedicated  to  that 
divinity. 

The  form  of  the  area  enclosed  by  the  walls  of  this  celebrated 


1  Signifying  black  eyes;  from  p.a.v?os,  and  of^a7»oy. 


360  MOUNT  ITHOME. 

fortress  is  an  oblong  square.  In  some  places  the  foundations  only 
can  be  traced ;  in  others,  some  masses  of  the  walls  remain,  com- 
posed of  large  blocks  well  hewn  and  united,  but  with  some  irregu- 
larity in  their  angles,  which  are  frequently  not  right  angles,  but 
obtuse  or  acute.  These  were  probably  erected  prior  to  the  time  of 
Epaminondas. 

The  town  of  Ithome  consisted  merely  of  what  was  afterwards 
the  acropolis,  that  is  the  summit  of  the  mountain  ;  as  the  lower 
town  of  Messene  owed  its  origin  to  the  Thebans,  after  the 
battle  of  Leuktra. '  We  find  in  Pausanias2  the  following  pas- 
sage :  "  They  say  (tpua-iv)  that  Homer  mentions  Ithome  in  his  cata- 
logue, calling  it  xXupccKozo-ffa,,  lofty."  Homer,3  however,  alluded 
to  the  Ithome  of  Thessaly.  Strabo,4  speaking  of  the  Thessalian 
Ithome,  gives  it  the  same  epithet  as  Homer,  and  says,  that  it  is 
situated  between  the  four  cities  of  Trikka,  Metropolis,  Pelinna,  and 
Gomphi :  he  also  cites  the  line  of  Homer.  Stcphanus '  also  says, 
that  the  Ithome  of  Homer  is  in  Thessaly.  Is  it  not,  then,  extraor- 
dinary that  Pausanias  should  have  committed  such  an  oversight? 
or,  are  we  to  infer  that  the  mistake  is  not  his,  but  that  of  his 
transcribers? 

Ithome  was  strongly  fortified  by  the  Mcssenians,  in  the  first  Mes- 
senian  war,  when  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  abandoned  most  of 
their  small  cities,  which  were  probably  not  fortified  before  that  pe- 
riod. Indeed,  few  remains  of  very  ancient  date  are  observed  in 
Messenia.  The  polygon,  or  Cyclopian  walls,  are  very  rare,  Avhile 
they  often  occur  in  the  neighbouring  and  warlike  Arcadia.  Most  of 
the  Messenian  cities  were  re-established  by  Epaminondas. 

Pausanias6  says,  that  the  Lacedaemonians  completely  destroyed 
Ithome  at  the  end  of  the  first  war.  It  is  surprising  to  find  him  assert- 
ing that  Ithome  is  as  high  as  any  mountain  within  the  Isthmus.7 


1  Puusan.  b.  3.  c.  1.  *  B.  4.  c.  f).  3   Iliad,  2.  v.  729.  *  B.  9.  p.  437. 

-'  De  Urbib.  p.  413.  v.  Iflwu.ij.  s  B.  4.  c.  14.  7  B.  4.  c.  [)■ 


MOUNT  ITHOME.  36l 

This  is  evidently  an  error:  its  insular  situation  tends,  indeed,  to 
increase  its  apparent  height;  but  this,  when  compared  with  the 
Arcadian  and  Laconian  mountains,  that  are  visible  from  its  summit, 
dwindles  into  insignificance.  Perhaps  Pausanias  meant,  that  it  was 
the  highest  inhabited  part  of  the  Peloponnesos ;  it  certainly  appears 
much  higher  than  the  Acrocorinth.  Strabo'  pretends,  that  Messene 
resembles  Corinth,  because  a  high  and  steep  mountain,  surrounded 
by  a  common  wall,  rises  above  both  of  them ;  he  likewise 2  asserts, 
from  the  testimony  of  Tyrtaeus,  that  Messene  was  taken  after  a  siege 
of  nineteen  years ;  but  as  Messene  did  not  exist  at  that  period,  the 
geographer  has  here  committed  an  anachronism  :  besides,  Tyrtaeus 
mentions  Ithome,  not  Messene.  In  the  time  of  Strabo,  Ithome, 
forming  only  one  town  with  Messene,  was,  perhaps,  called  indif- 
ferently by  both  names.  In  the  valuable  collection  made  by  Moiis. 
Cousinery,  which  is  now  at  Munich,  there  is  a  silver  tetradrachm, 
on  which  is  inscribed  ME,  and  I0OM,  perhaps  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  Thessalian  Ithome.  It  would  appear  that  Messene  retained  its 
ancient  name  a  long  time,  as  George  Phranza,3  who  wrote  in  146 1, 
says,  "  Ithome,  quae  nunc  Messene  dicitur." 

It  was  captured  by  the  Spartans,  after  a  previous  effort  of  twenty 
years.  Strabo  says,4  that  the  Lacedaemonians  destroyed  Messene, 
and  that  the  Thebans  rebuilt  it :  he  evidently  does  not  admit  that 
it  was  founded  by  the  Thebans.  It  was  afterwards  rebuilt  by  Philip, 
son  of  Amyntas,  but  the  acropolis  remained  uninhabited. 

Polybius5  relates  that  Philip,  being  on  Ithome  with  Aratus  and 
Demetrius,  and  having  sacrificed  to  Jupiter,  Demetrius  advised 
Philip  to  hold  the  ox  by  both  horns ;  or,  in  other  words,  to  keep 
Ithome  and  the  Acrocorinth,  which  would  render  him  master  of  the 
Peloponnesos.  Strabo6  and  Plutarch7  tell  the  same  story.  The  latter 
affirms  that  Ithome  is  as  strong  as  Acrocoriuth.  Scylax8  makes  the 
distance  of  Ithome  to  the  sea  eighty  stadia. 

1  B.  8.  p.  361.  *   13.  6.  p.  279.  3  B.  2.  c.  a.  *  B.  S.  p.  361. 

s  B.  7.  p.  505.  6  B.  8.  p.  361.  '  Life  of  Demetrius.         8  Periplus. 

VOL.   II.  3  A 


362  MOUNT  ITHOME. 

The  fortifications  of  Ithome  were  considerably  strengthened  and 
increased  by  the  Messenians  during  the  first  war.1  Demetrius2  of 
Macedon  took  Messene  by  surprise  in  the  night-time  ;  but  the 
next  day  was  driven  out  by  the  inhabitants,  and  most  of  the  Mace- 
donians perished  in  their  flight  down  the  rocks  and  precipices  of  the 
mountain.  Nabis,  tyrant  of  Sparta,  met  with  nearly  a  similar  re- 
ception.' He  took  the  town,  but  was  obliged  to  relinquish  it  the 
same  night.  It  was  afterwards  taken  by  the  Achaians.4  It  is  diffi- 
cult to  imagine  how  the  Messenians,  when  they  abandoned  their 
other  cities,  could  be  collectively  crowded  within  the  walls  of  Ithome. 
Probably  the  declivities  of  the  mountain,  outside  the  acropolis  walls, 
were  covered  with  habitations ;  and  this  locality  is  still  marked 
by  several  traces,  composed  of  small  stones  and  tiles.  In  time  of 
danger  the  inhabitants  abandoned  their  temporary  abodes,  and  re- 
tired within  the  walls  of  the  fortress. 

The  temple  of  Jupiter  Ithomates,  which  was  founded  by  Polycaon, 
king  of  Messenia,  seems  to  have  been  abandoned,  or  to  have  decayed 
at  a  very  early  period,  as  we  find  that  it  was  re-established  by  Glau- 
kos,  son  of  Aipytos,  and  grandson  of  Kresphontes.  An  anniversary 
festival  was  held  there  in  honor  of  the  god.  The  temple,  of  which 
there  are  no  remains,  is  now  replaced  by  the  monastery  of  Saint 
Elias,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  hill,  upon  the  edge  of  a  steep 
precipice.  The  festival  of  Jupiter  has  ceded  its  oaken  crown  to  the 
laurel  rose,  with  which  the  modern  Greeks  deck  their  heads  in  the 
annual  dance  which  they  perform  on  the  summit  of  Ithome. 

An  even  pavement  of  a  circular  form,  which  appears  modern,  but 
which  is  composed  of  ancient  slabs  of  stone  and  marble,  forms  the 
theatre  for  the  celebration  of  this  dance,  which  is  attended  by  the  in- 
habitants of  the  neighbouring  villages,  and  in  which  much  pomp  and 
ceremony  are  displayed. 


1  Which  began  743  years  B.  C,  and  lasted  twenty  years.     The  second  war  began  685 
years  B.  C,  and  lasted  fourteen  years.     The  third  began  465  B.  C,  and  finished  453. 
'  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  29.         3  Ibid,  and  b.  3.  c.  50.  *  Id.  b.  4.  c.  29. 


PANORAMA  FROM  MOUNT  ITHOME.  363 

The  monks  of  this  monastery  had  also  fled,  on  account  of  the 
thieves.  The  door  was  full  of  fresh  bullet-holes,  as  the  banditti  had 
a  short  time  before  amused  themselves  with  firing  at  it,  for  want  of 
other  recreation.  Mount  Ithome  has  a  flat  summit,  rising  gently 
towards  the  north,  where  the  monastery  is  erected.  Few  places  in 
Greece  combine  a  more  beautiful,  and  at  the  same  time  a  more 
classical  view.  It  overlooks  the  whole  extent  of  the  once  rich  and 
warlike  Messenia;  which,  however,  in  the  time  of  Strabo,  was  greatly 
depopulated,  as  the  cities  mentioned  by  Homer'  had  either  entirely 
disappeared,  had  left  only  faint  vestiges,  or  had  changed  their  names. 
Vicissitudes,  similar  to  those  which  occurred  between  the  time  of 
Homer  and  that  of  Strabo,  have  continued  from  the  time  of  the  geo- 
grapher to  the  present  day. 

This  beautiful  and  fertile  region  is  not  half  cultivated;  and, 
though  irrigated  with  numerous  rivulets,  and  blessed  with  a  delicious 
climate,  at  present  exhibits  only  a  few  moderate  villages  scattered 
through  the  country.  The  Pamisos*  flows  through  the  Stenykleric' 
plain ;  and  its  mouth,  which  is  distinguished  on  its  influx  into  the 
gulf,  is,  according  to  Pausanias,4  eighty  stadia  from  Ithome.  Near 
its  mouth  is  Koron,  situated  upon  a  point  of  Cape  Akritas.  Nesi, 
the  ancient  Stenykleros,  the  royal  residence  of  Kresphontes,  is  also 
visible.  Here  the  Messenian  and  Laconian  armies  fought.  The  former 
were  conducted  by  Aristomenes,  Androkles,  and  Phintas;  the  latter, 
by  their  king  Anaxandros  ;  and,  although  animated  by  the  inspiring 
strains  of  their  poet  Tyrtaeus,  were  vanquished  in  the  combat. 

The  distant  islands  of  Zakunthos  and  Cephallenia  are  distinguished 


1  These  are  Awpiov,  Qpvoy,  Atitv,  Kvira.pKr<rr}ei;,  Afupiyevna,  AvQtia,,  A^ve,  EyWy,  Anreta., 
ny$atros,  $i)poc,  IprjT/uXo;,  KapJa/xuAij.  Iliad,  2.  v.  590,  et  seq.  Iliad,  8.  v.  149,  et  seq.  It  is  a 
disputed  point  whether  some  of  these  towns  were  not  in  Laconia.  Strabo  has  endeavoured 
to  explain  their  situations,  b.  8.  p,  360. 

*  The  modern  name  of  the  Pamisos  is  Pirnatza.  It  abounds  in  fish,  particularly  trout 
and  eels. 

3  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  33.  "  B.  4.  c.  34.  5  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  16. 

3a2 


364  PANORAMA  FROM  MOUNT  ITHOME. 

towards  the  north  over  a  dip  of  the  mountains.  Beyond  the  range  of 
the  Lycseon  heights  the  loftier  summits  of  Arcadia  are  descried 
white  with  snow.  The  bold  and  broken  precipices  of  Taygeton 
unite  with  Lycaeon,  and  stretch  far  out  into  the  Messenian  gulf, 
while  its  base,  dotted  with  villages,  and  expanded  in  plains,  forms 
the  country  of  the  hardy  Mainaotes.1 

Pausanias  appears  to  have  felt  great  interest  in  the  history  of  the 
Messenians.  His  description  of  their  wars  is  more  minute  and  more 
animated  than  any  other  part  of  his  narrative.  His  account  of  the 
city  gives  us  a  grand  idea  of  what  it  must  once  have  been ;  and  the 
present  splendid  remains  produce  a  conviction  of  his  veracity.  He 
says,  "  the  walls  enclose  not  only  Mount  Ithome,  but  also  a  space 
which  extends  towards  the  Pamisos  under  Mount  Evan.  The  town 
is  enclosed  by  a  good  wall  of  stones,  and  defended  by  towers  and  bat- 
tlements/'2 He  adds  that  the  fortifications  are  the  best  he  ever  saw, 
and  superior  even  to  those  of  Ambrysos,  Byzantium,  and  Rhodes. 

It  was  our  intention  to  have  remained  some  days  at  this  interesting 
place  to  accomplish  an  accurate  investigation  of  these  stupendous 
ruins,  which  are  so  perfect  that  they  exhibit  a  complete  picture,  and 
excite  a  most  satisfactory  idea  of  ancient  Grecian  fortifications. 
While  I  was  taking  a  general  view  from  the  summit  of  Ithome,  I 
found  the  sun  so  excessively  piercing,  though  it  was  only  the  7th  of 
February,  that  I  was  obliged  to  sit  under  the  shelter  of  my  umbrella. 
My  attendants,  however,  seeing  about  forty  people  going  towards 
the  village  of  Mauramatia,  conceived  that  they  were  thieves,  and  in- 
sisted upon  my  taking  down  my  umbrella  that  it  might  not  attract 
their  attention  ;  but  it  turned  out  that  the  party  consisted  of  Turks, 
who,  happening  to  be  going  the  same  way,  travelled  together,  in 
order  to  form  a  body  sufficiently  strong  to  resist  the  thieves. 

The  village  is  situated  on  the  ruins,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 

1  Bearings  from  Ithome:  summit  of  Mount  Tetiagi,  N.  18.  E.  Castle  of  Chitres,  S.  34-. 
E.  Town  of  Scala,  N.  67.  E.  Temple  of  Apollo  Epikouiios  on  Mount  Kotylion,  N.  10.  E, 

2  EiraKlu;.     B.  4.  c.  31. 


RUINS  OF  MESSENE.  365 

from  the  great  gates,  the  most  magnificent  ruin  of  the  kind  in 
Greece.  A  circular  wall,  which  is  composed  of  large  regular  blocks, 
encloses  an  area  of  sixty-two  feet  diameter.  In  this  wall  are  two 
gates,  one  facing  Cyparissiai,  and  the  other  opposite,  looking 
towards  Laconia.  The  architraves  have  fallen ;  but  that  which 
belonged  to  the  Laconian  gate  remains  entire  with  one  end  on  the 
ground,  and  the  other  leaning  against  the  wall.  It  seems  to  be 
pervaded  by  a  fissure  which  was  occasioned  probably  by  the 
fall ;  and  it  is  likely  that  in  a  few  years  this  magnificent  block, 
which  is  nineteen  feet  long,  will  be  broken  in  two  pieces.  Within 
the  circular  court  is  a  square  niche  in  the  wall,  probably  for  a 
statue.  We  were  so  hurried  by  the  continual  alarm  of  thieves,  that 
we  had  not  time  to  copy  an  inscription  beneath  the  niche,  which 
probably  records  its  destination.  It  is  in  the  collection  of  Fourmont's 
inscriptions'. 

KOINT02nAnTI02ET$HMmNEnE2KETA2EN. 

These  noble  walls  were  probably  constructed  with  the  assistance  of 
the  army  of  Epaminondas,  and  the  lintel  was  perhaps  thrown  down 
by  the  Spartans  at  the  final  subjugation  of  the  Messenians,  as  its 
destruction  could  not  have  been  effected  without  violence.  Amongst 
the  ruins  of  Messene  are  the  remains  of  the  stadium  and  of  a 
theatre,  which  is  one  of  the  smallest  in  Greece.  Several  other  traces, 
masses  of  fine  walls,  and  heaps  of  stones  that  are  scattered  about 
the  plain,  are  overgrown  or  nearly  concealed  by  large  trees  and 
luxuriant  shrubs.  Pausanias2  mentions  a  gymnasium,  a  stadium,  a 
theatre,  ten  temples,  and  an  infinity  of  statues,  and  particularly  one 
edifice  called  isgoQvtriov,  which  contained  statues  of  all  the  gods  wor- 
shipped in  Greece.  This  however  is  inconceivable,  as  their  number 
must  have  amounted  to  many  thousands.  Perhaps  he  means  only 
the  great  gods. 

Many  abundant  founts  and  springs,  issuing  from  Ithome,  diffuse 

'  In  the  king's  library  at  Paris.  s  B.  4.  c.  31,  32. 


366  RUINS  OF  MESSENE. 

verdure  and  fertility  over  this  interesting  spot.  Pausanias '  notices 
Klepsydra  and  Arsinoe,  which  still  remain.  The  magnificent  walls 
near  the  great  gate  are  almost  entirely  preserved,  and  composed  of 
square  stones  of  a  prodigious  size,  rustic  and  chipped.  The  pave- 
ment consists  of  large  square  stones,  in  which  we  discern  the  track 
of  ancient  wheels.  The  towers  are  square,  and  composed  of  much 
smaller  stones  than  the  walls.  A  few  steps  lead  up  to  the  door  in 
each  tower,  in  the  second  story  of  which  are  two  windows  of  the 
same  form  as  the  doors,  diminishing  towards  the  top. 

I  had  taken  one  view  of  the  gate,  and  begun  another,  when  we  were 
alarmed  by  the  cry  of  thieves  !  I  was  however  determined  to  finish 
my  view,  which,  by  the  aid  of  the  camera-obscura,  I  accomplished 
in  a  hasty,  but  accurate  manner,  but  we  were  obliged  to  mount  our 
horses  before  we  had  packed  up  our  paper  and  instruments.  In- 
deed for  several  days  we  had  been  kept  in  such  a  state  of  in- 
quietude, as  marred  all  our  pleasure,  disturbed  our  tranquillity,  and 
prevented  us  from  making  those  drawings  and  observations  which 
we  wished  to  do,  and  which  the  place  so  well  merited. 


1  B.  4.c.  31. 


CHAPTER  X. 

From  Messene  to  the  khan  of  Sakona — To  Sinano — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city — Ruins  of 
Megalopolis — Panoramic  view  of  the  plain — Perilous  situation  of  the  author,  and  conflict 
with  the  thieves — Unexpected  delivery  from  danger — Pursuit  and  capture  of  several  thieves 
— Their  punishment — Theatre  of  Megalopolis — Ruins  in  the  vicinity — Departure  from 
Sinano  in  search  of  the  ruins  of  Lykosoura — Village  of  Delhi  Hassan — Town  of  Karitena — 
Kachikolo  Kastro,  probably  Gortys — Temple  of  Apollo  Epikourios — Sculpture  of  the  temple 
— Sources  of  the  Neda — Mount  Tetragi,  probably  Lycaeon — Mount  Dioforti,  probably  Ke- 
rausios — Ruins  of  a  city,  probably  Lykosoura — Road  to  Sparta — Village  of  Agie  Basile — 
Source  of  the  Eurotas — Arrival  at  Misithra. 


TO  THE  KHAN  OF  SAKONA. 

V^N  the  7th  of  February  we  quitted  the  gates,  and  proceeding  along 
the  north  side  of  Ithome,  saw  the  castle  of  the  banditti  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  left.  We  passed  by  a  fount,  and  saw  two 
villages  called  Beski  and  Bolemi,  on  the  side  of  Ithome  on  the  right. 
We  came  to  a  long  block  of  stone  and  a  ruined  church,  and  soon 
after  to  a  heap  of  small  stones.  We  passed  over  a  stream  near  two 
mills,  and  in  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes  from  the  gates  of  Messene, 
crossed  the  triangular  bridge  over  the  Balyra,  which,  according  to 
Pausanias,1  was  thirty  stadia  from  Messene.  We  stopped  here  to 
consult  with  some  countrymen  concerning  the  road  by  which  we 
were  most  likely  to  avoid  the  thieves.  We  determined  to  proceed 
across  the  plain,  to  traverse  the  mountainous  boundary  between 
Messenia  and  Arcadia,  and  to  visit  the  remains  of  Megalopolis. 
We   crossed   a   rivulet    running    north-east,    and    saw    the   village 

1  B.  4.  c.  33. 


368  FRUITLESS  SEARCH  FOR  LYKOSOURA. 

Meligala  to  the  left,  and  twenty  minutes  further  passed  by  the  foot 
of  an  insulated  rocky  hill  of  inconsiderable  height,  rising  in  the 
middle  of  the  plain.  This  is  perhaps  Evander's  Hill,  where  Philo- 
poemen  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Messenian  Dinocrates.1 

We  crossed  the  deserted  channel  of  a  torrent  and  a  small  stream, 
and  arrived  at  the  khan  of  Sakona,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
called  at  present  Makriplai,  which  form  the  connecting  link  between 
LycEeon  and  Taygeton,  and  the  line  of  separation  between  Mes- 
senia  and  Arcadia.  This  wretched  hovel  is  three  hours  and  a  half 
from  the  gates  of  Messene.  Part  of  the  plain  between  the  khan  and 
Ithome  is  marshy  and  uncultivated;  the  rest  is  arable.  Some  large 
plants  of  the  Indian  fig  grow  about  this  place. 


TO  SINANO,  MEGALOPOLIS. 


On  the  8th  we  quitted  the  khan  for  the  ruins  of  Megalopolis,  and 
pursued  a  difficult  road  over  the  south  foot  of  Mount  Lycaeon,  in  hopes 
of  finding  the  remains  of  Lykosoura,  and  sent  our  luggage  horses 
the  usual  way,  passing  by  a  khan  near  Leontari.  We  crossed 
three  rivulets  soon  after  we  set  out,  descending  from  the  Makriplai 
Mountains,  and  finding  their  way  into  the  Balyra  or  the  Pamisos. 

We  here  saw  quantities  of  tiles  scattered  about,  a  church  to  the 


'  Plutarch's  life  of  Philopojmen.  I  recollect  no  other  author  who  mentions  the  EvxvSeov 
Aopof.  It  may  be  a  corruption  for  Euctv,  which  hill  was  near  Messene,  according  to  Pausa- 
nias,  b.  4.  c.  31.  It  is  also  mentioned  by  Polybius,  b.  2.  and  5.,  who  says  that  the  river 
Oiuous  flowed  near  Messene  between  two  hills,  one  named  Euan,  the  other  Olympos. 


RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY.  369 

left,  and  the  hills  close  to  the  right.  After  crossing  a  stream  we  began 
to  ascend,  passed  near  a  village  called  Pelia,  and  observed  a  ruined 
mosque  in  the  plain  to  the  left.  We  crossed  a  rapid  rivulet  in  a 
glen,  and  a  few  hundred  yards  further  the  road  to  Tripolitza,  and 
arrived  near  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city  situated  on  an  insulated  hill 
at  the  foot  of  the  Lycasan  range  to  our  left.  Its  present  name  is  Hel- 
liniko-Kastro,  perhaps  Andania,  which,  according  to  Livy,"  was  a 
small  city  between  Megalopolis  and  Messene.  Pausanias2  relates  that 
it  was  founded  by  Polykaon,  son  of  Lelex,  who  made  it  the  capital 
of  Messenia.  It  was  the  birth-place  of  Aristomenes,  the  greatest 
hero  of  antiquity.  Part  of  the  walls  remain,  cresting  the  summit  of 
a  circular  hill.  We  were  separated  from  it  by  a  glen,  but  our 
attendants  were  so  impressed  with  the  terror  of  thieves,  that  Ave 
abandoned  the  opportunity  of  visiting  its  remains,  as  well  as  the  in- 
tention of  deviating  from  our  route  in  search  of  Lykosoura,  and 
pursued  our  journey  by  the  nearest  road.  We  crossed  a  rivulet, 
and  some  way  beyond  it,  another  of  a  more  rapid  course  and  larger 
size,  when  we  observed  some  scattered  tiles  and  small  stones, 
indicating  the  wreck  of  former  habitations. 

We  arrived  at  the  village  of  Krano  in  two  hours  and  a  half  from 
the  khan  of  Sakona.  This  place  was  probably  near  the  boundary 
between  Arcadia  and  Messenia.  It  overlooks  the  Messenian  plain, 
terminated  b}f  Ithome  and  Evan,  and  the  range  which  subsides  in 
the  Messenian  gulf. 

Our  road  from  Krano  was  on  an  ascent  for  ten  minutes,  when  we 
arrived  at  the  summit  of  the  ridge  of  hills,  which,  branching  out 
from  Lyceeon,  unite  with  the  northern  extremity  of  Taygeton.  The 
Megalopolitan  plain  was  seen  below,  bounded  by  the  long  chain  of 
mountains  which,  stretching  into  Laconia,  join  Mount  Mainalion, 
forming  the  bulwark  of  the  Spartan  plain  opposite  Taygeton. 


1    B.  36.  c.  31.  which,  according  to  Strabo,  was  also  called  Oi%aAiij,  B.  8.  p.  339  and  360. 

-  B.  3.c.  I.  b.  4.  c.  1. 
VOL.  II.  3  B 


370  PANORAMA  FROM  THE  RUINS  OF  MEGALOPOLIS. 

Our  road  lay  through  a  forest  of  oaks.  Upon  the  left  as  we  ap- 
proached the  large  village  of  Issari,  we  heard  a  continual  firing  of 
musketry,  which,  as  we  were  informed  the  next  day,  proceeded  from 
an  attack  of  the  banditti  upon  a  party  of  Turks.  We  may  con- 
gratulate ourselves  that  upon  this,  as  well  as  upon  other  occasions, 
we  found  this  band  of  desperadoes  too  much  occupied  with  other 
objects  to  concern  themselves  about  mere  travellers. 

We  descended  towards  the  plain  of  Megalopolis,  and  about  one 
hour  from  the  top  of  the  ridge  crossed  a  stream,  and  twenty  minutes 
further  another,  both  running  towards  the  plain,  and  mixing  their 
waters  with  the  Alpheios.  These  are  probably  the  Mallous  and  the 
Syros.1  We  saw  no  ruins  on  this  road  ;  but  probably  the  city  of  Ira 
was  not  far  from  it,  as  Strabo2  places  it  between  Megalopolis  and 
Andania.  Having  reached  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  we  entered  the 
plain  of  Megalopolis,  and  to  the  right  saw  the  village  Dedir-bey,  an 
hour  and  forty  minutes  from  Krano.  In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  more 
we  crossed  the  Alpheios  running  north,  and  twenty  minutes  further 
passed  the  village  Aias-bey,  ten  minutes  from  which  brought  us  to 
the  ruins  of  Megalopolis  and  the  village  of  Sinano,  consisting  of  the 
agha's  pyrgo,  and  a  few  cottages  with  hedges  round  them,  situated 
just  without  the  ancient  walls,  and  exhibiting  a  neater  appearance 
than  similar  habitations  in  most  parts  of  Greece. 

Sinano  must  have  been  a  considerable  place  when  Fourmont ' 
travelled  in  Greece,  as  he  asserts  that  it  contained  eight  hundred 
houses,  and  that  a  short  time  before  his  arrival,  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  of  its  inhabitants  died  of  the  plague. 

I  took  a  panorama  of  the  plain  and  its  surrounding  elevations 
from  the  top  of  the  agha's  tower.  In  the  assemblage  of  moun- 
tainous scenery,  Taygcton,  Lycseon,  and  Kerausios,  were  con- 
spicuously pre-eminent,  while  the  Alpheios  was  distinguished  on 
the  western  side  of  the  plain,  pursuing  its  course  towards  the  north 


1  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  35.  '  B.  8.  p.  360. 1/nj. 

2  Siehis  manuscript  journey  in  the  king's  library  at  Paiis. 


CONFLICT  WITH  THE  BANDITTI.  371 

along  the  varied  and  wooded  bases  of  Lycaeon  and  Kerausios.  The 
plain  is  undulating,  embossed  with  small  hills,  and  intersected  by 
numerous  rivulets,  which  mingle  their  waters  with  the  Alpheios,  and 
render  the  adjacent  district  one  of  the  most  fertile  portions  of  the 
Grecian  territory. 

On  the  10th  we  had  mounted  our  horses  for  the  purpose  of  visit- 
ing the  hills  which  bound  the  western  side  of  the  plain,  and  where 
we  hoped  to  have  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  We  had 
scarcely  quitted  the  village  of  Sinano,  when  we  saw  the  women  and 
children  rushing  into  their  cottages,  driving  in  their  cattle,  and 
closing  their  doors,  and  heard  the  cry  of  thieves  re-echoed  on  all 
sides.  This  had  now  become  so  familiar  to  us  that  we  no  longer 
felt  any  great  alarm,  and  were  determined  to  hazard  any  thing  rather 
than  deviate  from  our  plans. 

I  accordingly  set  oft'  with  three  armed  Greeks  of  the  village,  our 
two  agogiates,  my  Turk  Ibrahim,  and  Mr.  Cell's  Mustapha;  the  Ta- 
tar Salique  proved  recreant  on  the  occasion.  Ibrahim  had  often  said 
that  a  Turk  who  drinks  wine  is  good  for  nothing,  and  will  never 
fight.  When  I  desired  Salique  to  accompany  us,  he  apologised  by 
stating  that  his  pistols  were  so  bad  as  to  be  of  no  service,  and  when 
I  offered  to  change  pistols  with  him,  he  said  mine  were  so  small  that 
they  were  only  fit  to  shoot  mice.  Hence  it  appeared  that  he  had 
no  inclination  for  the  enterprise ;  and  that  we  could  derive  no  other 
advantage  from  his  attendance  during  our  journey  than  the  impres- 
sion which  might  be  occasioned  by  his  Tatar's  dress  and  kalpak, 
which  overawed  the  unresisting  Greeks  of  small  villages  when  they 
were  inclined  to  refuse  us  lodging  and  provisions ;  but  this  inclination 
was  very  rarely  manifested. 

The  villagers,  seeing  that  we  were  determined  to  penetrate  through 
the  forest,  where  it  was  supposed  the  thieves  were  concealed,  joined 
our  party  to  the  number  of  about  twenty,  with  their  agha  at  their  head. 
We  crossed  the  river  Helisson,  and  plunging  into  a  thick  forest  of  oaks, 
in  the  course  of  a  few  minutes  found  ourselves  in  the  presence  of  a 
small  party  of  the  thieves,  who  were  secreted  in  the  wood.     My  Turk 

3b2 


372  CONFLICT  WITH  THE  BANDITTI. 

Ibrahim,  and  one  of  the  villagers  of  Sinano,  immediately  rushed 
upon  a  sturdy  ruffian,  and  with  some  danger  secured  him,  and  tied 
his  arms  together.  The  rest,  being  inferior  to  us  in  number,  fled 
into  the  forest  without  making  the  least  resistance,  and  while  we 
were  eagerly,  but  incautiously  pursuing  them,  we  were  unexpect- 
edly drawn  into  an  ambuscade,  and  found  ourselves  in  an  in- 
extricable labyrinth  of  bushes  and  morasses,  and  surrounded  by  a 
large  band  of  robbers,  who  imperatively  ordered  us  instantly  to 
prostrate  ourselves  before  them.  Some  of  our  party,  however,  firing 
upon  the  thieves,  we  were  answered  by  an  immediate  discharge  of 
pistols  and  musketry,  and  two  of  our  men  fell,  badly  wounded. 
This  was  the  signal  for  general  slaughter,  and  our  escape  appearing 
impossible,  and  resistance  useless,  we  expected  immediately  to  pay 
dear  for  our  inconsiderate  temerity.  At  this  critical  moment,  loud 
voices  were  heard,  with  the  approaching  galloping  and  neighing  of 
horses ;  and,  in  another  instant,  about  three  hundred  Turkish  horse- 
men, headed  by  the  voivode  of  Karitena,1  who  was  in  search  of  the 
robbers,  rushed  to  the  spot  where  we  stood,  and  taking  us  all  for 
thieves,  trampled  some  of  our  party  under  their  horses  feet ;  but  as 
they  were  not  long  before  they  perceived  their  mistake,  they  recom- 
menced their  pursuit  of  the  robbers ;  and  I  never  beheld  a  more 
animating  spectacle,  or  witnessed  a  more  singular  conflict.  The 
Turkish  costume  formed  a  striking  assemblage  of  military  glitter; 
and  this,  blended  with  the  gay  caparisons,  and  gorgeous  trappings 
of  their  horses,  moving  rapidly  along,  at  times  appearing,  disappear- 
ing, and  re-appearing  among  the  trees,  and  chequering  the  shade 
of  the  forest  with  sudden  gleams  of  coloured  light,  formed  altogether 
a  rich  and  interesting  picture.  We  must  also  recollect  that  it  de- 
rived an  additional  attraction  from  the  danger  we  had  escaped,  and 
the  security  we  then  enjoyed.     In  a  few  minutes  we  came  up  with 


1  A  town  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Alpheios,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  plain  of 
Mpgalopolis. 


CONFLICT  WITH  THE  BANDITTI.  373 

the  thieves,  and  although  they  formed  the  main  body  of  one  hundred 
and  forty  Greeks,  yet  they  were  so  unprepared  for  this  general  attack, 
that  they  dispersed,  and  were  indebted  for  their  safety  to  the  dense 
intricacies  of  the  forests,  and  the  precipitous  ruggedness  of  the 
mountains.  Only  seven  of  our  men  were  wounded  during  the  day  ; 
several  of  the  thieves  were  badly  wounded ;  one  was  killed,  and  five 
were  taken  prisoners,  and  sent  to  Tripolitza,  where  they  were  be- 
headed. They  were  badly  clothed,  extremely  dirty,  and  had  very 
little  money  or  ammunition.  They  belonged  to  the  great  band  of 
Captain  George  Kolokotrone,  whom  Ave  had  so  lately  seen  fighting 
at  the  foot  of  Ithome. 

The  thief  who  was  taken  by  my  Turk,  Ibrahim,  had  only  one 
charge  for  his  musket,  and  twenty  paras  in  his  purse.  At  the  end 
of  the  chase,  which  lasted  about  two  hours,  we  all  assembled  in  an 
open  part  in  the  forest,  near  the  ruins  of  Megalopolis.  The  prize 
of  valour,  according  to  the  decision  of  the  voivode,  was  adjudged  to 
Ibrahim  and  the  Greek,  who  captured  the  first  thief.  Ibrahim  took 
possession  of  the  robber's  dagger,  ammunition  belt,  his  ring  and 
purse.  The  gun  was  given  to  the  Greek.  The  whole  of  the  party, 
and  particularly  the  thieves,  were  extremely  surprised  at  seeing  me 
at  the  present  encounter ;  for  I  was  in  the  Frank  dress,  and  my  hat 
attracted  the  notice  of  every  one.  The  voivode  smiled  at  the  small- 
ness  of  my  pistols,  and,  drawing  from  his  sash  a  finely  ornamented 
yatagan, l  desired  me  to  wear  it  for  his  sake ;  but  as  I  had  not,  at 
that  time,  any  article  of  value  to  offer  him  in  return,  I  felt  myself 
bound  to  decline  the  present,  which  seemed  to  excite  both  his  dis- 
pleasure and  his  surprise.  After  I  had  thanked  him,  in  the  best 
manner  I  could,  for  my  deliverance  from  the  robbers,  we  parted  in 
the  most  amicable  manner.  He  returned  to  Karitena,  and  I  pro- 
ceeded with  the  villagers  to  Sinano. 

As  soon  as  I  entered  the  room  where  I  lodged,  I  inquired  for 


1  The  Turkish  dagger. 


374  SUPPRESSION  OF  THE  THIEVES. 

Salique,  who,  on  hearing  my  voice,  crept  out  from  a  large  cup- 
board, in  which  he  had  concealed  himself  under  a  great  quantity 
of  bed-clothes.     He  had  taken  off  his  outer  cloak,  and  his  kalpak ; 
and  being  covered  with  perspiration  and  dust,  and  still  trembling 
with  fear,  made  a  most  ludicrous  and   contemptible  appearance. 
Ibrahim  entered  just  at  this  moment,  bearing  in  triumph  the  tro- 
phies of  his  courage.    No  words  can  describe  the  mixture  of  derision 
and  scorn  which  were  painted  in  his  countenance  on  beholding  the 
situation  of  poor  Salique.     After  a  short  gaze,  however,  of  ineffable 
contempt,  he  was  not  willing  to  miss  such  a  favourable  opportunity 
of  confirming  his  favourite  theory,  and  descanted  at  length  on  the 
pernicious  effects  of  wine,  to  which  he  attributed  the  cause  of  the 
Tatar's  cowardice.     Salique  bore  the  reproof  in  good  humour,  an- 
swering him  somewhat  in  the  spirit  and  style  of  Falstaff  that  Mo- 
hamed  had  never  made  any  law  to  encourage  Musulmans  to  act  like 
madmen ;  that  prudence  was  one  of  the  first  Mohamedan  virtues ; 
but  that  if  he  should  ever  find  himself  obliged  to  fight  against  thieves, 
his  valour  should   be  at  least   equal   to  that  of  a  water-drinker. 
Having,  in  the  mean  time,  put  on  his  Tatar's  cloak,  and  reassumed 
the  imposing  halpak,  he  lost  his  late  abject  appearance,  and  repos- 
sessed himself  of  his  usual  dictatorial  tone: 

"  Cum  pulchris  tunicis  sumet  nova  consilia  et  spes."1 

Very  active  measures  were  taken  about  this  time  by  the  Porte,  for 
the  suppression  of  the  formidable  bands  of  robbers  who  infested  the 
Morea,  and  had  hitherto  set  the  government  at  defiance.  Their  pre- 
datory force  found  an  almost  impregnable  protection  in  the  lofty 
mountains,  and  in  the  thick  and  extensive  forests  of  Arcadia,  Mes- 
senia,  and  Laconia;  while  it  was  imagined  that  they  were  indirectly 
assisted  by  the  Greeks  of  those  mountainous  districts.  A  ferman  was 
sent  from  the  Grand  Signor  to  the  Pasha  of  the  Morea,  with  orders 


1  Horace,  Epist.  b.  1.  Epist.  18.  v.  33. 


© 


s 


1 
g 


RUINS  OF  MEGALOPOLIS.  375 

to  employ  every  possible  means  for  their  destruction.  The  first  step 
of  the  Pasha  was  to  convoke  all  the  bishops  of  the  Morea,  and  to 
order  them  to  fulminate  excommunications  against  those  Greeks  who 
afforded  any  kind  of  assistance  to  the  thieves,  and  to  grant  a  remis- 
sion of  a  certain  number  of  sins  to  those  who  assisted  in  their  ex- 
tirpation. This  plan  had  its  full  effect ;  and  before  we  quitted  Greece 
most  of  them  had  left  the  Morea,  and  had  taken  refuge  in  the  Ionian 
islands,  where  they  entered  the  British  service. 

Strabo    dwells   very  little   on  Megalopolis,    which  he   says   was 
nearly  deserted  in  his  time:  it  Avas  fifty  stadia  in  circuit. 

Plutarch  informs  us,  that  when  Cleomenes  took  Megalopolis,  it 
was  as  great  a  city  as  Sparta.  Its  most  valuable  paintings  and 
sculptures  were  conveyed  to  the  Laconian  capital,  and  great  part  of 
Megalopolis  Avas  destroyed.  It  was  built  under  the  auspices  of 
Epaminondas,1  and  its  population  collected  from  various  small  cities 
of  Arcadia.  Its  temples  and  public  edifices  were  numerous  and 
rich,  and  its  theatre  was  the  largest  in  Greece/  The  koilon,  or  cir- 
cular part,  still  remains,  but  the  seats  are  covered  with  earth  and 
overgrown  with  bushes.  Part  of  the  walls  of  the  proscenium  are 
also  seen  facing  the  Helisson,  which  flows  a  few  yards  to  the  east. 
The  remains  of  the  temples  are  dubious :  some  masses  of  Avails  and 
scattered  blocks  of  columns  indicate  their  situations,  Avithout  ascer- 
taining the  divinities  to  Avhose  Avorship  they  Avere  consecrated.  The 
soil  is  much  raised,  and  probably  conceals  several  remains  of  the 
city.  The  Helisson,  which  is  a  small  but  rapid  river,  had  its  source 
at  a  village  of  the  same  name, 3  and,  flowing  through  the  Dipaiean 
and  Lycaiatian  territories,  and  through  the  town  of  Megalopolis, 
united  Avith  the  Alpheios,  after  a  course  of  thirty  stadia.4  Its  banks 
are  picturesque,  and  covered  with  trees,  particularly  platani  and 
oaks.     It  contains  fine  trout  and  eels. 

We  purchased  from  the  villagers  a  considerable  number  of  Arca- 
dian coins,  some  of  which  Avere  rare  and  Avell  preserved.     Those  of 

'  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  27. ;  b.  9.  c.  15.  '  Id.  b.  2.  c.  27. ;  b.  8.  c.  31. 

3  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  3.  and  30.  '  Id.  b.  8.  c.  30. 


376  COINS  OF  MEGALOPOLIS. 

Megalopolis  are  common ;  that  of  silver  represents  the  head  of  Jupiter, 
and  the  reverse  a  figure  of  Pan  sitting  on  a  rock,  probably  Lycaeon, 
holding  a  branch  in  his  left  hand,  -with  an  eagle  on  his  right  knee. 
Inscrip.  AI  MEI\  The  copper  have  the  head  of  Jupiter,  and  on  the 
reverse  the  usual  figure  of  Pan,  holding  a  bow  with  his  right  hand, 
and  an  eagle  at  his  feet.     Inscrip.       MLT 

AE    * 

The  confederate  coins  of  Arcadia  are  common,  and  generally  exhibit 
the  head  of  Jupiter  or  of  Pan,  and  the  fistula  or  pipe  of  Pan. 

Inscriptions  and  other  antiquities  might  probably  be  discovered 
amongst  the  ruins  of  Megalopolis,  if  diligently  sought.  One  of  the 
steps  which  leads  up  to  the  pyrgos  of  the  agha  is  a  block  of  marble, 
on  which  is  an  inscription,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  obliterated  ; 
it  contains  the  name  of  Aristomenes,  but  has  probably  no  allusion 
to  the  Messenian  hero. 

AKPETE 

EAPIAA2 
A2TTKPATHS 

EAPIAA2 
A2TTKPATH2 
AAMOHENA 
API2TON 
API2TOMENH2 

On  the  12th  we  rode  to  the  south-east  of  Sinano,  to  examine  the 
remains  of  a  small  temple,  which  is  now  converted  into  a  church. 
We  crossed  two  small  streams,  and  a  spot  where  they  make  tiles, 
and  in  twenty  minutes  reached  the  church,  corresponding  nearly  to 
seven  stadia,  which  are  assigned  by  Pausanias '  as  the  distance 
between  Megalopolis  and  the  temple  of  the  goddesses  called  Maniae,2 
which  he  places  towards  Messenia,  on  the  spot  where  Orestes  lost 
his  senses  on  account  of  the-murder  of  his  mother.  Part  of  the  cella 
remains,  upon  which  the  church  is  built.     The  temple  was  Doric, 


1  B.  8.  c.  34.  •  The  Eumenides. 


RUINS  NEAR  MEGALOPOLIS.  377 

and  of  stone,  and  the  proportions  small.  Some  plain  fragmented 
columns  lie  near  the  spot,  with  some  fluted  columnar  pilasters,  and 
some  unornamented  metopae.1 

From  this  place  we  proceeded  in  the  same  direction,  crossed 
a  small  stream,  passed  through  a  village  called  Erisvanaga,  and 
then,  after  crossing  another  rivulet,  observed  some  ancient  ves- 
tiges. About  half  a  mile  further  is  a  small  hill,  on  which  are  some 
imperfect  remains  of  antiquity,  perhaps  the  AooclvXov  pvypu,  which 
according  to  Pausanias  *  was  not  far  from  the  temple  of  the  Mania?. 
The  hill  is  not  the  work  of  art;  Pausanias  calls  it  ynz  XPP><*>  of  p^ya,  "  a 
small  mound  of  earth,"  and  adds  that  Orestes,  in  a  paroxysm  of 
frenzy,  bit  off  his  finger  in  that  place. 

We  proceeded  through  a  village  called  Chappoga,  near  which 
some  ancient  traces  may  be  seen.  We  here  crossed  a  stream,  the 
fifth  from  Megalopolis.  They  originate  in  the  hills  which  rise  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  plain  ;  and,  after  a  short  and  winding  course, 
mingle  their  waters  with  those  of  the  Helisson,  or  the  Alpheios. 

Ascending  a  hill,  covered  with  oaks,  we  came  to  the  kalybia 
of  Dabano,  consisting  of  a  few  cottages.  Twenty  minutes  more 
brought  us  to  a  small  eminence  called  Rapsomati,  on  which  are  a 
few  imperfect  foundations,  perhaps  the  place  named  Kkt\,  by  Pau- 
sanias,' on  which  a  temple  of  theEumenides  marked  the  spot  where 
the  mental  sanity  of  Orestes  was  restored. 

An  hour  and  a  half  from  hence,  near  the  foot  of  the  hills  which 
bound  the  plain,  a  large  source  of  water  called  Marmorea  issues 
from  the  rock,  and  is  probably  the  Kgowoi,  mentioned  by  Pau- 
sanias.4 

The  detailed  account,  which  that  author  has  left  of  the  towns  and 
temples  in  the  vicinity  of  Megalopolis,  would  add  greatly  to  the 
interest  and  to  the  information  of  the  traveller,  by  whom  it  might  be 
explored,  and  the  positions  at  least,  of  many  of  the  antiquities  might 

1  Doric  frusta  twenty-two  inches  diameter;  breadth  of  metopse,  one  foot  seven  inches 
and  a  fifth  ;  height,  one  foot  seven  inches  and  a  half,  including  the  moulding  or  capital. 
*  Loc.  cit.         '  Loc.  cit.         *  B.  8.  c.  35,  (ifi  Tifftp  xaAoujxE^ouy  Kpovvous. 
VOL.  II.  3  c 


378  FRUITLESS  SEARCH  FOR  LYKOSOURA. 

be  ascertained.  But  the  state  of  the  country  at  the  time,  and  the 
late  events,  deterred  us  from  penetrating  among  the  mountains  on 
this  side  the  plain.  We  accordingly  returned  to  Megalopolis,  from 
whence  we  proceeded  to  visit  those  parts  of  Arcadia,  which  were  not 
rendered  insecure  or  impracticable  by  the  presence  of  this  formidable 
banditti. 


TO  KARITENA. 


We  quitted  Sinano  on  the  13th,  with  the  intention  of  proceeding 
across  the  plain  to  Mount  Lycoeon,  in  search  of  the  ancient  city  of 
Lykosoura,  which  we  imagined,  from  the  account  given  of  it  by  Pau- 
sanias,  to  be  situated  towards  its  eastern  base.  Fourmont  conceived 
that  he  had  discovered  the  remains  of  Lykosoura ;  but  the  account1 
of  his  journey  through  this  part  of  Arcadia  is  a  tissue  of  errors,  as  he 
has  mistaken  Leondari  for  Megalopolis,  and  Megalopolis  for  Man- 
tineia. 

In  fifty  minutes  from  Sinano,  we  reached  the  Alpheios,  which,  ac- 
cording to  Pausanias, '  was  twenty  stadia  from  Megalopolis.  The 
river  was  about  three  feet  deep  ;  and,  after  fording  it,  we  proceeded 
towards  Lycseon,  but  observed  no  remains  of  the  cities  of  Makareai 
and  Daseai,  which  were  in  this  vicinity ;  but  were  in  ruins  in  the 
time  of  Pausanias.' 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  Alpheios  we  crossed  a  rivulet,  which, 
rising  on  Lycseon,  after  a  short  course  to  the  north-east,  enters  the 
Alpheios.  We  proceeded  about  twenty  minutes  from  the  Alpheios, 
when  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Delhi  Hassan,  prettily  situated  at  the 
foot  of  the  wooded  hills  that  join  Lycaeon.  A  few  imperfect  traces  of 
antiquity  mark  perhaps  the  site  of  Akakesion,  four  stadia  from  which 


1  Manuscript  journal  in  the  king's  library  at  Paris. 
1  B.  8.  c.  36.  3  Loc.  cit. 


FRUITLESS  SEARCH  FOR  LYKOSOURA.  379 

was  the  temple  of  the  Despoine;  and,  higher  up,  the  Megaron,  and 
the  temples  of  Pan  and  Minerva,  besides  several  statues  and  altars ; 
a  little  above  which  was  Lykosoura.  If  we  may  credit  Pausanias," 
"  this  city  was  the  most  ancient  in  the  world,  and  the  first  that  the 
sun2  ever  illumined  with  his  rays.  From  these  venerable  walls  men 
learned  how  to  build  other  cities."  We  were  particularly  desirous  of 
observing  the  construction  of  its  walls,  if  any  remained.  It  was  nearly 
uninhabited  in  the  time  of  Pausanias,  whose  description  of  the  vici- 
nity is  so  clear  and  detailed,  that,  having  no  doubt  of  finding  some 
of  the  antiquities  which  he  mentions,  we  went  to  the  pyrgos,  or  prin- 
cipal house  in  the  village  of  Delhi  Hassan,  which  belonged  to  the 
Turkish  agha,  and  inquired  if  there  were  any  ancient  remains  higher 
up  the  hill.  We  received  an  answer  in  the  negative,  and  were 
assured  that  it  was  impossible  to  proceed  any  further  on  horseback. 
This  was  so  positively  affirmed  that  it  readily  obtained  our  credence, 
and,  relinquishing  the  search  of  Lykosoura,  we  directed  our  course 
towards  the  north,  between  the  Alpheios  and  the  Lycaean  range. 

In  three  quarters  of  an  hour  we  crossed  five  small  streams  that 
rise  in  the  mountains  and  soon  unite  with  the  Alpheios. 

Pausanias3  mentions  the  rivers  Mylaon,  Nous,  Acheloos,  Kelados, 
and  Naphilos,  Avhich  flow  through  the  territory  of  Theisoaia,  on 
Lycseon,  and  enter  the  Alpheios. 

In  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes  from  Delhi  Hassan  we  reached 
the  village  of  Kuparissia ;  to  the  right  of  which  is  a  church  on  a 

'  B.  8.  c.  38. 
*  The  Arcadians  flattered  themselves  that  they  were  the  most  ancient  people  in  the  world, 
and  were  termed  KpQa-eXyjYdi,  or  antelunar.     Apollou.  Rhod.  Argon.  4.  v.  264. 
Apxafe;,  ot  xcu  tpotrte  trsAijvaiijj  uJeovIaj 
Zuittv  $yyoy  eSovle;  sy  ovgamv. 
And  Statius, 

Arcades  huic  veteres  astris  lunaque  priores.     Theb.  4.  v.  275. 
And  Ovid, 

Ante  Jovem  genitum  Terras  habuisse  feruntur 
Arcades,  et  Luna  gens  prior  ilia  fuit. — Fast.  b.  2.  v.  2&0. 
5  B.  8.  c.  38. 

3c2 


380  SITUATION  OF  BASILIS. 

round  rock}'  hill,  where  the  vestiges  of  an  ancient  city,  and  some 
foundations,  composed  of  large  blocks,  seem  to  indicate  the  site  of 
Basilis.  This  city  was  in  ruins  in  the  time  of  Pausanias ;'  but  it  must 
have  been  a  place  of  some  importance,  if  we  may  judge  by  the  beauty 
of  its  coinage.  An  unique  medal  of  that  city  is  preserved  in  the 
British  Museum  ;  it  is  a  silver  tetradrachm  of  the  finest  workman- 
ship, and  represents,  on  one  side,  a  bearded  head  covered  with  the 
Phrygian  bonnet  and  a  diadem,  and  supposed  to  be  Dardanos.  On 
the  reverse  is  a  lyre  :  inscrip.  BA2IA.C 

Nearer  the  chain  of  Lycaeon  is  a  village  called  Maura,  and  a  tor- 
rent-bed named  Bathu  Rheunia,5  in  the  vicinity  of  Avhich  we  were 
informed  that  flames  were  sometimes  seen  to  burst  from  the  ground. 
It  is  no  doubt  the  Bathos  of  Pausanias,*  where  he  affirms  that  fire 
rises  from  the  ground.     He  places  it  at  ten  stadia  from  Basilis. 

As  the  information  which  we  obtained  concerning  this  curious 
spot  was  not  received  till  after  we  had  quitted  Arcadia,  we  had  no 
opportunity  of  ascertaining  the  nature  of  the  fire,  or  of  comparing 
it  with  the  account  of  Pausanias.  In  all  probability  it  proceeds 
from  the  carburetted  hydrogen,  like  the  fire  at  Pietramala,  in  the 
Bolognese  Apennines,  that  near  Apollonia  in  Epiros,  and  in  many 
other  spots  in  different  parts  of  the  world. 

In  an  hour  and  seven  minutes  from  Kuparissia  we  reached  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  Megalopolitan  plain,  and  crossed  the 
Alpheios  over  a  bridge  of  four  arches,  forming  a  singularly  pic- 
turesque object.  The  river,  which  is  here  narrow  but  deep,  is  com- 
pressed between  rough  and  precipitous  rocks,  where  it  rushes  for 
some  time  with  accelerated  violence. 

From  the  bridge  we  ascended  for  twenty-three  minutes  by  a  steep 
and  rocky  way,  and  arrived  at  Karitena,  a  town  situated  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  Alpheios,  and  apparently  peopled  with  about 


1  B.  8.  c.  29. 

1  See  remarks  on  a  coin  of  Basilis  by  Taylor  Combe,  Esq.  Sec.  R.  S.  Director :  from  the 
Archaeologia,  vol.  18.  3  Signifying  the  deep  stream.  *  B.  8.  c.  29. 


© 


TOWN  OF  KARITENA.  381 

3000  inhabitants,  principally  Greeks,  and  governed  by  a  voivode. 
On  a  flat-topped  insulated  rock,  which  rises  above  the  town,  are 
the  ruins  of  a  modern  fort.  This  strong  and  advantageous  position 
was  judiciously  selected  by  the  ancients.  The  table-topped1  rock, 
which  was  probably  the  acropolis,  has  induced  some,  on  account  of 
its  form,  to  suppose  it  to  be  the  ancient  Trapezous,  which,  how- 
ever, according  to  Pausanias,2  took  its  name  from  Trapezeus,  son 
of  Lycaon.  But  that  author  on  quitting  Gortys  passes  the  Alpheios, 
and  places  Trapezous  on  the  southern  side  of  the  river.  The  spot 
where  the  two  rivers  unite  was  called  Raiteai.  If  it  was  a  town, 
its  situation  is  perhaps  occupied  by  Karitena,  which  is  near  the  con- 
fluence, but  Pausanias  is  not  sufficiently  explicit  on  this  point. 

Some3  imagine  that  Karitena  is  Gortys ;  it  was  a  place  of  strength 
in  the  lower  ages,  and  is  mentioned  by  George  Phranza*  as  one  of 
the  principal  towns  in  the  Peloponnesos  in  the  year  1459- 


TO  KACHIKOLO  KASTRO,  GORTYS. 

On  the  14th  we  visited  the  remains  of  an  ancient  city,  the  situa- 
tion of  which  corresponds  with  that  of  Gortys.  A  short  distance 
to  the  north  of  Karitena  we  saw  to  the  left  the  junction  of  the 
Gortynios  and  the  Alpheios  at  Raiteai.  Pausanias5  asserts  that  the 
former  river  rose  at  Theisoa,  in  the  Methydrian  territory,  where  it 
was  named  Lousios,  because  Jupiter  was  bathed  in  it  soon  after  he 


1  T 'partita,,  a  table. 
4  B.  8.  c.  3.     Stephanus  calls  the  town  Tpa.TttT.ot.,  and  says  it  was  near  Trikolonos.     De 
Urbib.  p.  714.     See  Apollodor.  b.  3. 

3  The  Abbe  Fourmont;  see  his  manuscript  journal.  4  B.  3.  c.  22.  Paris  edit. 

5  B.  8.  c.  28. 


382  RUINS  OF  GORTYS. 

was  born.  It  assumed  the  name  of  Gortynios  when  it  reached  the 
town  of  Gortys ;  it  was  celebrated  for  the  coldness  of  its  waters. 
After  prosecuting  our  journey  for  an  hour  along  a  very  bad  road  on 
a  high  bank  by  the  eastern  side  of  the  Gortynios,  we  crossed  it 
over  a  bridge  under  which  the  river  is  rapidly  rolled  amid  steep 
and  lofty  precipices,  that  throw  a  shade  of  wild  horror  over  the  ad- 
jacent scenery. 

In  forty-three  minutes  from  the  bridge  we  reached  the  ruins  called 
indifferently  Marmora,  or  Kachikolo-Kastro.  It  stands  upon  a  high 
rock,  rising  nobly  from  the  north  bank  of  the  Gortynios.  The  first 
remains  that  we  reached  were  the  foundations  of  a  temple  of  the  usual 
form,  with  some  fragments  of  white  marble  scattered  about.  We  were 
assured  that  the  pavement,  which  was  of  the  same  material,  had  been 
taken  up  a  few  years  before,  and  burnt  into  lime  at  Karitena.  Pausa- 
nias1  mentions  a  temple  of  iEsculapius  at  Gortys,  composed  of  Pen- 
telic  marble ;  the  foundations  abovementioned  probably  indicate  its 
situation.  It  appears  to  have  been  about  the  size  of  the  Theseion  at 
Athens,  and  was  probably  of  the  Doric  order.  But  no  fragment  of  a 
column,  or  of  any  architectural  ornament,  remains  to  corroborate  this 
supposition.  As  the  ruins  were  probably  of  marble,  they  may  have 
been  converted  into  lime.  The  traces  of  another  building,  also  ap- 
parently a  temple,  are  seen  in  this  vicinity.  Several  masses  of  the 
walls  which  surrounded  the  town  still  remain,  consisting  of  the 
second  and  third  styles,  and  composed  of  very  large  blocks.  There 
are  the  ruins  of  two  small  gates  near  each  other,  and  also  another  of 
a  larger  size  facing  Karitena.  The  lintels  have  all  fallen.  In  the 
time  of  Pausanias,  Gortys,  which  had  once  been  a  considerable  city, 
was  reduced  to  a  village.  It  was  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Gortys, 
son  of  Stymphalos,  who  was  son  of  Elatos,  the  founder  of  Elateia  in 
Phocis. 

Below  the  ruins  of  Gortys  is  a  monastery  and  cave  in  the  preci- 
pice, which  rises  from  the  river.     Its  appearance  at  the  distance  of 

•  B.  8.  c.  28. 


RUINS  OF  GORTYS.  383 

about  half  a  mile  is  grand  and  picturesque ;  and  it  probably  merits 
and  would  repay  the  trouble  of  a  diligent  scrutiny,  but  we  were 
fatigued  with  the  duration  of  our  journey,  and  our  enthusiasm  was 
abated  by  the  privations  to  which  we  were  frequently  exposed. 
We  returned  to  Karitena  in  the  evening. 


TO  AMPELONE. 

We  set  out  on  the  17th,  intending  to  visit  the  temple  of  Apollo 
Epikourios,  on  Mount  Kotylion,  and  of  searching  again  for  the  site  of 
Lykosoura,  from  which  our  late  unsuccessful  attempt  had  not  dis- 
couraged us.     We  crossed  the  Alpheios  over  the  bridge  of  Karitena, 
from  which  we  ascended  by  a  bad  road,  leaving  the  plain  of  Megalo- 
polis to  the  left.     In  an  hour  and  a  half  from  Karitena  we  reached 
a  flat-topped  hill  called  Kourounu,  where  are  the  foundations  of  a 
fortress,  composed  of  small  stones,  and  probably  built  by  the  Vene- 
tians.   Our  route  lay  through  a  mountainous  tract,  rugged  with  rocks 
and  bushes,  and  exhibiting  a  few  chesnut  trees  and  small  oaks.     A 
fine  range  of  mountains  rose  to  the  right,  and  we  looked  down  upon 
the  plain  of  Megalopolis  to  the  left.     In  three  hours  and  thirty- 
five  minutes  from  Karitena  we  reached  a  village  called  Kareas, 
situated  near  a  hill  of  the  same  name,  on  which,  we  were  informed, 
there  were  some  ancient  remains.     Many  small  streams  rise  in  this 
hill,  and  stealing  through  the  glens  and  sinuosities  of  the  mountains 
into  the  plain,  become  accessions  to  the  current  of  the  Alpheios ;  we 
had  already  crossed  them  in  our  way  from  Megalopolis  to  Karitena. 
The  road  began  to  descend  from  Kareas ;  in  forty  minutes  from 
which  we  came  to  a  fountain,  murmuring  beneath  the  shade  of 
planes  and  oaks  of  a  large  size.     We  continued  descending  by  the 


384  VILLAGE  OF  AMPELONE. 

steepest  of  roads,  and  winding  through  forests  of  venerable  age. 
It  took  us  an  hour  from  Kareas  to  reach  the  foot  of  the  hill,  when 
having  crossed  a  rivulet  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Ampelone,  five 
hours  after  leaving  Karitena. 

This  place  takes  its  name  from  the  extensive  vineyards  in  its 
vicinity,  which,  if  they  were  judiciously  cultivated  along  the  shel- 
tered undulations  of  the  surrounding  hills,  would  probably  produce 
excellent  wine.  This  appears  to  have  been  the  case  in  a  more 
ancient  period,  as  we  know  that  the  neighbouring  Phigalians '  were 
impassioned  wine  drinkers,  and  strenuous  votaries  of  Bacchus. 
Ampelone  contains  nothing  of  any  interest,  but  is  the  best  village  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  temple  of  Apollo. 


TO  THE  TEMPLE  OF  APOLLO  EPIKOURIOS. 

The  road  up  to  the  temple  is  steep  and  rocky,  and  one  of  the  worst 
in  Greece.  In  an  hour  we  passed  through  two  small  contiguous 
villages,  one  named  Skleru2  Apanu,3  the  other  Skleru  Kato.4  The 
cottages  are  roofed  with  the  slate  that  is  found  near  the  spot.  A 
small  stream  ripples  down  the  hill  between  the  two  villages,  and  is 
lost  amongst  the  rocks  at  a  few  hundred  yards  from  its  source.  It 
is  in  all  probability  the  same  which,  according  to  Pausanias,5  some 
have  erroneously  taken  for  the  Lymax. 

After  an  ascent  of  fifty  minutes  from  Skleru,  we  reached  the 


1  The  name  of  this  place  was  written  in  several  different  manners.  In  Polybius  it  is 
*iyaXsa,  $iy*Xia,  and  *iaXta.  Others  have  it  $iyaX«i«  and  iiateia.  According  to  Pausanias 
it  was  founded  by  Phigalos,  son  of  Boukalion.    B.  8.  c.  3. 

•  This  word  signifies  difficult  (SxA^oj)  which  it  has  received  from  the  difficulty  of  the 
access  to  it,  the  roads  in  all  directions  being  of  the  worst  and  steepest  kind. 

3  Upper,  euro  avw.  *  Lower,  xa7cu.  5  B.  8.  c.  41. 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  APOLLO  EPIKOURIOS.  385 

temple.  It  is  not  at  all  visible  as  you  approach,  but  is  skreened  from 
the  view  by  the  steep  rocks  that  rise  from  the  road ;  nor  does  it 
meet  the  eye  until,  on  turning  round  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  it  pre- 
sents its  front  within  a  few  yards  of  the  astonished  traveller !  It  has 
the  same  effect  in  whatever  direction  it  is  approached,  as  it  is 
situated  in  a  small  plain  closely  environed  by  hills  on  all  sides, 
except  on  that  towards  the  descent  to  Ampelone. 

The  ancients  were  very  studious  of  effect  in  the  situation  of  their 
temples  ;  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  the  spot  on  which  the  temple 
of  Apollo  stands  was  chosen  in  order  to  excite  surprise,  and  to 
inspire  awe  in  those  who  approached  his  shrine.  "  The  place  * 
which  it  occupies  was  called  Bassai.  It  was  upon  Mount  Koty- 
lion,  which  is  a  part  of  the  Lycaean  range,  and  was  about  forty 
stadia  to  the  east  of  the  town  of  Phigalia.*  It  was  (after  the  temple 
of  Minerva  at  Tegea)  the  most  beautiful  in  the  Peloponnesos,  both 
for  its  materials  and  the  harmony  of  its  proportions.  It  was  de- 
dicated to  Apollo  smxovgiocj  (the  helper)  from  his  having  delivered 
the  country  from  the  plague.  Iktinos  was  the  architect."  This  is 
the  account  given  by  Pausanias,4  and  we  might  in  vain  form  con- 
jectures as  to  its  dimensions  and  its  order,  had  it  shared  the  fate  of 
mau}r  of  the  Grecian  temples.  But  its  lofty  and  solitary  situation 
has  happily  averted  the  destruction  of  this  elegant  edifice,  and  the 
greater  part  of  it  still  remains. 

I  shall  not  attempt  a  regular  architectural  description  of  a  temple 


■  ^tofiov,  Pausan.  loc.  cit.  '  Now  called  Paulitza. 

3  A  temple  was  erected  at  Athens  in  honour  of  Apollo  Alexikakos,  or  the  destroyer  of 
evil,  in  gratitude  for  his  having  liberated  the  Athenians  from  the  plague,  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  4  I . 
Saint  John  is  at  present  invoked  on  those  occasions,  and  the  plague  is  supposed  to  cease 
its  ravages  in  Turkey  on  the  21st  of  June,  the  anniversary  of  the  saint.  The  fact  is,  that  it  is 
the  great  heat  which  is  inimical  to  the  contagion,  for  which  reason  it  was  supposed  to  be  de- 
stroyed by  Apollo  or  the  sun.  The  knowledge  of  the  healing  art  was  also  attributed  to 
Apollo  as  well  as  to  iEsculapius,  hence  the  former  was  denominated  nxlpo;,  vamy,  trtahfp,  8tc 
See  Ezechiel.  Spanlicm.  observat.  in  Hymn,  in  Apoll.  v.  40. 

4  Loc.  cit. 
VOL.   II.  3  D 


386  THE  TEMPLE  OF  APOLLO  EPIKOURIOS. 

which  the  discovery  of  the  sculptured  frize  has  rendered  so  well 
known  to  the  world.1  It  will  be  sufficient  to  give  some  general  ideas 
of  its  proportions  and  present  state,  while  I  leave  the  more  minute 
details  to  the  discoverers  of  its  marbles. 

It  stands  nearly  north  and  south,  contrary  to  the  general  rule  of 
Grecian  temples,  which  usually  stand  east  and  west.  It  is  built  of 
a  fine  close  grained  stone  or  lithomarge  found  near  the  spot,  which 
equals  marble  in  the  hardness  of  its  texture  and  the  polish  of  its  sur- 
face. Its  colour  is  a  light  brown,  with  a  suffusion  of  yellow.  There 
were  originally  six  columns  on  each  front,  and  fifteen  on  the  sides. 
The  capitals  resemble  those  of  the  Parthenon  in  their  form.  The 
temple  was  composed  of  forty-two  columns  besides  the  insulated 
Corinthian  column,  and  the  ten  pilasters  of  the  Ionic  order  within 
the  cella,  the  capitals  of  which  were  of  white  marble.  The  statue * 
of  the  divinity  is  conjectured,  but  without  any  plausible  reason,  to 
have  been  placed  against  the  Corinthian  column  which  was  opposite 
the  entrance  of  the  cella.  There  are  at  present  thirty-six  columns 
standing,  besides  some  of  the  frusta  of  the  pilasters.  The  lower  part 
of  the  epistylia  is  almost  entire ;  but  many  of  the  columns  are  out 
of  the  perpendicular.  The  architrave  has  consequently  been  dis- 
jointed in  several  places,  and  menaces  an  approaching  fall.  Some 
pieces  of  the  northern  front  have  been  thrown  down  since  I  quitted 
Greece,  as  the  insecurity  of  their  position  made  the  discoverers  3  of 
the  marbles  apprehensive  that  they  might  fall  on  the  excavators. 
The  roof  and  the  walls  of  the  cella  have  fallen,  and  the  sculptured 
frize  was  covered  with  the  ruins.  Part  of  it  was  however  visible 
when  I  visited  Greece,  but  so  much  covered  with  large  masses  of 


>  The  length  of  the  temple  is  125  feet ;  breadth  48.  Length  of  the  cella  53  feet;  breadth 
20.  Length  of  the  hypaethral  or  unroofed  part  of  the  cella  35  feet.  The  columns,  includ- 
ing the  capital,  are  about  20  feet  in  height. 

2  This  statue  was  of  bronze  and  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  was  taken  to  Megalopolis, 
Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  30. 

3  The  marbles  were  excavated  in  the  year  1812  by  Mr.  Robert  Cockerell  and  Mr.  John 
Foster. 


SCULPTURED  FRIZE  FROM  THE  TEMPLE  OF  APOLLO.        387 

stone,  that  it  was  impossible  to  distinguish  the  subject  it  repre- 
sented. The  interior  of  the  temple  has  since  been  cleared  out, 
and  the  frize  which  surrounded  the  interior  of  the  cella  sent  to  the 
British  Museum.  Indifferent  proportions,  and  moderate  execution, 
are  observable  in  these  marbles.  They  are  so  far  inferior  to  the  ge- 
neral composition,  that  they  were  probably  sculptured  at  the  quar- 
ries by  artists  of  little  note.  They  are  not  however  altogether  without 
interest,  and  a  certain  pretension  to  merit.  Their  quantity,  rather 
than  their  quality,  renders  them  conspicuous  in  the  British  Museum, 
and  they  would  be  seen  to  much  less  disadvantage,  if  they  were  not 
so  immediately  confronted  with  the  matchless  sculpture  of  the  Par- 
thenon. 

The  general  proportion  of  the  figures  is  five  heads  in  height,  and 
some  are  even  less.  The  feet  are  long,  the  legs  short  and  stumpy, 
and  the  extremities  ridiculous  in  the  design,  and  imperfect  in  the 
execution,  and  they  resemble  the  style  which  is  observed  on  the 
better  kind  of  Roman  sarcophagi.  They  were  no  doubt  subservient 
to  the  general  ornament  of  the  temple,  and  intended  as  architectural 
decorations.  They  would,  indeed,  be  seen  to  much  greater  advan- 
tage in  the  British  Museum,  by  being  raised  to  their  original  height, 
where  their  want  of  symmetry  and  skill  would  be  less  apparent;  and 
the  more  minute  details  would  be  perceived  only  enough  for  the 
general  effect.'  Though  their  motions  are  extravagant,  and  their 
attitudes  stiff,  yet  they  are  not  on  the  whole  so  despicable  as  to  merit 
the  account  given  of  them  by  a  French  painter1,  resident  at  Athens, 
who,  in  a  letter  upon  the  subject,  says  :  "  Cet  immense  bas-relief  est 
de  la  plus  mauvaise  composition ;  assez  mediocre  d'execution ;  de 
mauvaises  draperies  extravagantes,  tortillees  a  l'exces ;  rien  de  cette 
belle  simplicity  Grecque,"  &c. 

The  Phigalian  frize  is  composed  of  two  subjects  ;  one  of  which  is 


'  The  lower  part  of  the  frize,  in  its  original  position,  was  about  twenty  feet  and  six  inches 
from  the  pavement,  and  consequently  about  fifteen  feet  from  the  spectator's  eye. 

*  Lettre  de  Monsr.  Fauvela  Monsr.  Barbie  du  Bocage.  Magasin  Enc.  vol.  5.  1813. 

3  d  2 


388  VIEW  FROM  THE  TEMPLE. 

the  old  story  of  the  Centaurs  and  the  Lapithai,  upon  eleven  slabs, 
and  consisting  of  forty-seven  figures;  the  other  subject,  which  is  on 
twelve  slabs,  represents  the  battle  between  the  Amazons  and  the 
Greeks,  and  consists  of  fifty-three  figures.  Many  of  the  combatants 
are  naked,  and  the  greater  part  are  without  helmets.  They  are 
armed  with  the  aspis,  or  Argolic  shield.  The  accessories  were  of 
metal,  as  the  perforations,  and  bits  of  bronze  and  lead  which  still 
remain  in  the  marble,  indicate.  Their  motions  are  extremely  varied, 
but,  for  the  most  part,  neither  dignified  nor  natural ;  and  some  are 
preposterously  caricatured.  The  relief  is  nearly  as  high  as  that  of 
the  metopee  of  the  Parthenon.  The  height  of  the  frize  is  two  feet, 
and  the  entire  length  of  what  was  found  in  the  temple,  and  is  now  in 
the  British  Museum,  is  ninety-six  feet.  The  frize  was  carried  round 
the  lryprethral  part  of  the  cella  on  the  interior,  and  received  its  light 
from  above. 

The  proportions  of  the  figures  are  so  decidedly  bad  that  even  in 
their  original  position  these  defects  must  have  been  visible,  as  they 
occupied  a  place  which  was  a  little  more  than  twenty  feet  from  the 
ground ;  and  if  the  Phigalian  frize  has  any  admirers,  I  can  only  call 
to  their  recollection  the  words  of  Cicero:1  "  In  picturis,  alios  hor- 
rida,  inculta,  abdita  et  opaca,  contra  alios  nitida,  lreta,  collustrata 
delectant." 

The  view  from  the  temple  presents  a  rich  specimen  of  that  scenery, 
which  is  so  characteristic  of  this  pastoral  and  mountainous  region. 

Towards  the  south,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  a  part  of  the 
Lycoean  range  rises  to  a  considerable  height,  shaded  with  forests 
and  refreshed  with  streams.  Over  a  dip  of  the  mountain,  and  at  a 
considerable  distance,  Taygeton  exhibits  its  pointed  and  snowy  sum- 
mits, glittering  in  the  deep  azure  of  the  sky.  The  Lycsean  hills 
are  seen  undulating  far  down  to  the  winding  valley  of  the  Neda. 
Beyond    this    division   of  the  landscape  the  flat-topped   Ithome," 


'   De  Oratore. 
2  The  convent  on  Itliome  bears  from  the  temple  of  Apollo  S.  10  W. 


SOURCES  OF  THE  NEDA.  389 

invested  with  a  blue  aerial  tint,  is  distinguished  rising  from  the  Mes- 
senian  plain ;  beyond  which  is  the  Stenycleric  vale,  which  the  wind- 
ing Pamisos  permeates  to  its  influx  in  the  Messenian  gulf.  The 
plain  and  acropolis  of  Cyparissiai  emerge  from  the  gulf  of  the  same 
name,  beyond  which  is  the  open  surface  of  the  Sicilian  sea. 

I  repeated  my  visits  to  the  temple  for  four  days,  passing  the  nights 
at  Ampelone. 


TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  MOUNT  LYCLEON. 

On  the  22d,  I  proceeded  on  my  way  to  Laconia.  Mr.  Gell,  who 
had  already  travelled  through  that  country,  took  another  road,  and 
I  pursued  the  journey,  attended  by  my  Turk  Ibrahim,  the  Tatar 
Salique,  and  Giorgio  Stathi,  a  Greek.  On  quitting  Ampelone  we 
crossed  a  small  stream,  and  descended  into  a  sinuous  and  contracted 
vale  composed  of  arable  land.  In  fifty  minutes  we  came  to  a  fine 
copious  spring,  rushing  out  of  a  rock  to  the  left,  and  shaded  with 
platani  of  ample  dimensions  and  stately  aspect.  After  a  course  of 
only  thirt}-  yards  it  unites  with  another  rapid  rivulet,  Avhich  rises 
higher  up  the  mountain,  and  then  permeates  rocks  and  glens,  passing 
between  the  ancient  cities  of  Phigalia  and  Lepreos,  the  former  to  the 
south,  the  latter  to  the  north.  This  is  the  Neda,  which,  according 
to  Strabo1  and  Pausanias,2  separated  the  Eleians  and  Messenians. 
The  latter  author5  says  that  the  sources  of  the  Neda  are  on  Mount 
Kerausios,  which  is  a  part  of  Lycseon.  According  to  Strabo4  it  was 
supposed  that  the  Neda  was  made  to  issue  from  Mount  Lycaeon  by 
Rhea  that  she  might  wash  Jupiter  after  his  birth.     Pausanias  ascribes 

1  13.  8.  p.  348.         .  B.  1.  c.  36.         3B.  8.  c.  41.         4  Loc.  cit. 


390  DISCOVERY  OF  A  HUMAN  HEAD. 

that  honour  to  the  river  Lymax,  which  falls  into  the  Neda.  From 
this  place  we  ascended  amongst  hills,  covered  with  bushes,  and 
saw  the  ruined  village  of  Rassona  to  the  left.  We  came  to  a  fine 
forest  of  oaks  and  platani,  but  saw  no  cypresses;  though  Sidonius 
Apollinaris  gives  this  mountain  the  epithet  of  Cyparissifer. 

As  we  were  journeying  on  through  the  forests  of  Lycaeon,  we 
traversed  sequestered  glens,  which,  until  very  lately,  had  afforded 
a  secure  retreat  to  the  formidable  banditti,  who  had,  only  a  few 
days  before  our  arrival,  been  driven  from  their  strong  holds,  and 
concealed  haunts,  by  the  forces  of  the  voivode  of  Karitena,  after 
some  skirmishes,  and  the  loss  of  some  men  on  both  sides.  In  one 
of  these  passes  we  found  a  human  head,  which,  from  the  state  of 
preservation,  appeared  not  to  have  been  cut  off  more  than  two  days, 
and  from  the  tonsure  of  the  hair,  it  was  evidently  an  Albanian 
Christian,  and  it  had  the  appearance  of  a  beardless  youth  with  a 
fine  physiognomy.  It  had  no  Avound,  except  some  bruises,  caused 
perhaps  by  its  having  been  thrown  down  the  rocks  at  some  distance 
from  the  place  where  it  was  severed  from  the  body.  It  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  explain  this  mysterious  affair.  The  thieves,  who  had  been 
driven  from  the  vicinity  of  Megalopolis,  and  Mount  Ithome,  had 
taken  refuge  in  the  thick  forests  and  obscure  caverns  of  Lycaeon, 
from  which  they  were  also  expelled  after  several  conflicts  had  taken 
place.  The  first  operation  of  a  Turk  when  he  kills  a  thief,  is  to  cut 
off  his  head,  and  present  it  to  the  voivode  of  the  district,  who  re- 
munerates the  act  by  a  fixed  price.  The  thieves,  in  order  to  deprive 
their  enemies  of  this  reward,  as  well  as  to  save  the  remains  of  their 
friends  from  insult,  cut  off  the  heads  of  their  companions  as  soon  as 
they  fall  in  battle,  and  hurl  them  down  the  precipices,  or  throw 
them  into  the  neighbouring  streams.  This  head  had  probably 
undergone  a  similar  fate,  as  we  searched  for  the  body  in  vain.  We 
were  desirous  of  giving  it  some  kind  of  burial,  and  accordingly 
turned  over  some  large  stones  at  the  foot  of  a  venerable  oak,  and 
deposited  the  head  in  a  hole  which  we  made  for  its  reception.  Ibra- 
him, however,  declared  that  he  would  have  nothing  to  do  with  the 


ASCENT  TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  LYCEON.  391 

interment,  as  it  was  the  head  of  a  Christian  dog.  A  dispute  accord- 
ingly arose  between  him  and  my  Greek,  who  boldly  asserted  that 
the  denomination  of  dog  was  more  applicable  to  the  Turks  than  the 
Christians.  Salique  took  the  part  of  the  Greek,  and  gave  it  as  his 
opinion  that  all  such  distinctions  and  prejudices  were  cancelled  by 
death. 

After  performing  these  obsequies  to  the  ill-fated  head,  we  pro- 
ceeded, and  in  an  hour  and  fiftv  minutes  from  the  sources  of  the 
Neda,  we  quitted  the  road  which  led  to  the  village  of  Issari,  and 
began  to  ascend  the  steep  part  of  the  mountain,  as  we  were  tempted 
to  visit  the  summit  of  Lycoeon,  and  enjoy  the  interesting  view  which 
was  seen  by  Pausanias.' 

We  ascended  by  a  bad  and  rocky  way,  covered  with  bushes,  and 
interspersed  with  forest  trees.  Having  proceeded  fifty  minutes,  we 
lost  all  trace  of  the  way,  Avhich  became  so  rugged  and  perilous, 
that  we  were  obliged  to  descend  from  our  horses,  and  keep  close  to 
the  edge  of  a  most  tremendous  precipice,  rising  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  craggy  ravines,  and  savage  glens  below.  Here 
we  contemplated  some  of  the  wildest  scenery  in  Greece.  One  of 
our  horses  fell  at  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  and  would  have  been 
dashed  to  pieces  had  not  one  of  its  fore  legs  stuck  in  a  fissure  of  the 
rock.  The  poor  animal  was  suspended  in  this  manner  for  at  least 
ten  minutes ;  until  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  and  by  means  of 
ropes,  we  pulled  it  up.  A  shepherd,  by  whom  we  were  accompanied, 
assured  us  that  we  were  the  first  who  had  ever  attempted  to  ascend 
the  mountain  on  horseback. 

We  left  the  horses  at  this  place,  and  ascended  the  rest  of  the  way 
on  foot.  The  upper  part  of  the  mountain  is  a  steep  cone,  com- 
posed of  loose  and  jagged  stones,  with  no  other  vegetation  than  a 
few  scattered  bushes  of  the  lentiscus.  It  took  us  three  hours  and 
fifty  minutes  from  Ampelone  to  reach  the  top  of  the  mountain, 


1  B.  8.  c.  38. 


392  PANORAMA  FROM  MOUNT  LYC.EON. 

without  including  stopping.  As  soon  as  we  arrived  at  the  summit, 
a  cold,  bleak  wind  blew  from  the  north,  and  some  snow  fell.  Black 
masses  of  cloudy  vapour  hung  upon  the  mountains,  the  thunder 
burst  below  us,  and  tremulous  coruscations  of  lightning  gleamed  in 
the  valleys.  The  lofty  thundering  god  of  Lycaeon,  when  invested 
with  all  his  glory,  and  surrounded  by  his  pagan  worshippers,  could 
not  have  made  a  more  magnificent  display.  During  the  intervals  in 
which  the  thunder  paused,  our  ears  were  greeted  with  a  firing  of 
musketry  in  the  valleys,  proceeding  from  skirmishes  between  the 
Turks  and  the  thieves.  In  a  short  time  the  clouds  were  dispersed 
by  the  sweeping  violence  of  the  northern  wind ;  and  when  the  at- 
mosphere became  clear,  no  words  can  convey  an  adequate  idea  of 
the  enchanting  scene  which  burst  upon  us.  The  snow-crested  sum- 
mits of  Taygeton  rose  in  rugged  majesty,  and  towering  pride,  above 
the  smooth  and  even  surface  of  the  Messenian  gulf.  Nothing  can 
be  more  impressive  and  interesting  than  the  varied  outline  of  this 
renowned  mountain. 

The  view  of  the  Messenian  gulf  is  terminated  by  the  blue  horizon 
of  the  open  sea,  and  the  broad  Pamisos  is  seen  winding  through 
the  rich  plain  of  Stenykleros,  and  adding  to  it  its  tributary  stream. 
The  flat-topped  Ithome  is  distinguished  beyond  the  great  plain  of 
Messenia,  enveloped  in  tints  of  aerial  blue.  The  Cape  of  Coron  is 
observed  shooting  into  the  gulf.  The  open  sea  is  now  and  then 
descried  over  the  undulating  surface  of  the  Messenian  mountains. 
The  plain  and  acropolis  of  Cyparissiai  are  distinguished  clearly 
rising  from  the  Cyparissian  gulf.  A  long  line  of  open  sea  is  then 
contemplated  towards  the  west,  and  further  north  the  dim  and 
distant  outlines  of  Zakunthos  and  Cephallenia.  Skollis  and  Olenos 
are  next  beheld,  tipped  with  snow;  nor  are  even  the  misty  summits 
unseen  which  are  beyond  the  Olympic  plain.  The  ramification  from 
Lyea:on,  which  forms  Mount  Kotylion,  appears  towards  the  north, 
with  its  temple  like  a  luminous  speck.  The  panorama  is  closed 
with  the  flat  and  verdant  plain  of  Megalopolis,  with  its  ancient 
capital,  the  winding  Alpheios,  and  the  lofty  mountains  which  rise 


PANORAMA  FROM  MOUNT  LYC^ON.  393 

beyond  it.  The  nearer  view  is  gratified  by  the  sight  of  abrupt 
precipices  and  wooded  masses  receding  one  behind  another,  varied 
with  intervening  glens  and  plains,  and  adorned  with  every  variety 
of  tint  that  nature  ever  combined  in  her  most  fantastic  mood,  and 
most  smiling  hour.* 

The  rocks  of  the  mountain  are  calcareous,  and  its  soil,  except 
towards  its  summit,  is  fertile,  enriched  with  pastures,  and  adorned 
with  wood.  Its  modern  name  is  Tetragi.  A  tumulus  on  its  sum- 
mit is  composed  of  small  rough  stones  and  earth,  amongst  which 
are  some  fragments  of  bones,  apparently  burnt.  We  also  see  two 
ruined  churches,  most  part  of  which  are  built  of  small  ancient  blocks 
of  hewn  stone. 

There  can  be  little  doubt  that  this  is  the  spot  where  a  mound  of 
earth1  was  sanctified  by  an  altar  of  the  Lycaean  Jove,  fronted  by 
two  columns,  each  of  which  supported  an  eagle  of  gold.  The 
mound  still  remains,  and  the  two  churches  probably  stand  on  the 
site  of  the  columns ;  the  ancient  stones  which  are  seen  perhaps  con- 
stituted their  basements.  Great  part  of  the  Peloponnesos  was,  ac- 
cording to  Pausanias,  visible  from  this  spot. 

Not  far  from  this  part  of  the  mountain  is  another  summit  towards 
the  north,  of  about  the  same  height,  called  Dioforte,  which  some 
have  imagined  to  be  the  site  of  the  Lycaean  altar,  and  that  Tetragi 
is  the  ancient  Kerausios.  This,  however,  is  only  a  part  of  Lycaeon, 
which  had  various  other  appellations  and  subdivisions,  as  Olympos, 
Kotylion,  Elaion,  and  Nomia;  Kerausios  is  probably  the  summit 
called  Dioforte,  as  the  Neda  rises  at  its  foot. 


1  Bearings  from  Tetragi.  A  Cape  of  Taygeton,  in  Maina,  S.  2  E.  Convent  on 
Ithome,  S.  20  W.  Acropolis  of  Cyparissiai,  S.  15  W.  Southern  extremity  of  Zakunthos, 
N.  55  W.  Mount  Skollis,  N.  10  W.  Town  of  Lalla,  N.  2  E.  Ruins  of  Megalopolis, 
N.  &5±  E.  »  >oj   xcoju-a.— Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  38. 


VOL.  II.  3  E 


394  DISCOVERY  OF  LYKOSOURA. 


TO  ISSARI. 

We  quitted  Lycaeon,  after  we  had  remained  upon  its  summit  for 
several  hours  ;  during  which  I  traced  the  panorama  of  the  Pelopon- 
nesos  with  my  camera  obscura.  We  descended  towards  the  south- 
east, and,  in  two  hours,  arrived  at  Issari,  a  comfortable  village,  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  southern  side  of  the  mountain,  in  the  midst  of 
trees  and  verdure.  We  passed  the  night  in  the  cottage  of  the  papas, 
who  treated  us  with  hospitality,  and  would  not  accept  of  any  remu- 
neration. The  next  day  we  returned  to  the  summit  of  Tejragi ;  and 
as  the  weather  proved  beautifully  serene,  I  was  enabled  to  fill  up 
the  details  of  the  panorama. 

At  Issari,  I  again  made  inquiries  concerning  the  ruins  of  Lyko- 
soura,  and  was  informed  by  the  papas,  that  there  were  some  ruined 
churches,  and  a  palaio-kastro  in  the  direction  which  I  had  pre- 
viously supposed  above  the  village  of  Delhi  Hassan,  and  that  these 
were  the  only  remains  in  the  vicinity. 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  LYKOSOURA. 

Highly  pleased  with  the  discovery,  we  set  out  on  the  24th,  with  a 
shepherd  for  our  guide.  In  an  hour  we  came  to  the  village  of  Stala, 
situated  in  a  glen,  and  in  twenty  minutes  more  reached  the  ruins 
called  Agios  Georgios,  which  I  conceive  to  be  the  ancient  Lykosoura, 
as  its  situation  and  distance  from  Megalopolis  are  in  unison  with  the 


V 


0 


RUINS  OF  LYKOSOURA  395 

account  given  by  Pausanias,  and  its  walls  manifest  signs  of  the  re- 
motest antiquity.  The  acropolis  stood  upon  a  fine  precipice  of 
an  oblong  form,  the  extremities  facing  nearly  north  and  south. 
The  western  side  is  inaccessible,  and  the  other  side,  which  faces 
the  plain  of  Megalopolis,  is  supported  by  a  double  terrace  wall 
composed  of  rough  blocks  like  the  walls  of  Tiryns.  The  gateway 
is  visible,  and  faces  the  south,  but  its  only  remains  consist  of  the 
foundations  and  some  hewn  blocks  lying  on  the  spot.  Within  the 
acropolis  are  two  ruined  churches  and  several  frusta  of  unfluted 
columns  of  a  dark-coloured  marble,  with  some  architraves,  and  a 
Doric  capital.  The  largest  diameter  of  the  columns  is  only  one  foot 
ten  inches.  A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  south-east  of  the  acropolis 
is  an  eminence  covered  with  bushes,  which  may  be  well  supposed  to 
conceal  some  interesting  remains.  Several  blocks  of  plain  columns 
and  a  ruined  church  are  the  only  visible  objects.  To  the  north  of 
this  is  another  small  elevation,  where  some  fragments  of  plain  columns 
and  some  fluted  columnar  pilasters  and  triglyphs  evince  the  remains 
of  a  Doric  temple.  The  whole  is  fallen  to  the  ground,  and  amongst 
the  ruins  of  the  cella  is  a  mass  of  white  marble,  which  was  probably 
a  statue,  but  it  is  too  much  shattered  for  any  form  to  be  perceived. 

Between  this  and  the  acropolis  are  the  remains  of  a  bath  or 
cistern,  about  forty  feet  in  length  and  ten  in  breadth,  composed 
of  square  blocks,  and  well  preserved.  A  few  feet  above  it,  is  a 
small  spring,  which  originally  flowed  through  the  bath,  by  two 
apertures  which  still  remain.  Several  large  blocks  lie  scattered 
in  the  vicinity,  which  was  evidently  one  of  the  most  ornamented 
parts  of  the  city.  To  the  east  of  the  acropolis  are  the  remains  of 
another  Doric  building,  consisting  of  fragments  of  columns  and 
pilasters  nearly  buried.  The  principal  part  of  the  town  occupied 
an  undulating  plain  to  the  east  of  the  acropolis :  but  it  is  difficult 
to  form  any  certain  conclusions  with  respect  to  its  size,  as  none  of 
the  walls,  except  those  of  the  acropolis,  have  been  preserved.  But 
it  appears  to  have  extended  over  a  circuit  of  about  two  miles. 

The  distance  from  this  place  to  the  ruins  of  Megalopolis  is  two 

3  k  2 


396  RUINS  OF  LYKOSOURA. 

hours,  and  an  hour  less  to  Delhi  Hassan,  the  agha  of  which  place 
had,  as  the  reader  may  recollect,  positively  denied  that  any  ruins 
whatever  existed  in  the  vicinity.  We  found,  however,  the  fact  to 
be,  that  only  three  years  previous  to  our  arrival,  the  agha  had 
dilapidated  the  most  perfect  of  the  temples,  and  several  other  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  city,  for  the  purpose  of  using  the  materials  in 
the  construction  of  his  pyrgos.  He  was  unwilling  that  we  should 
discover  and  expose  his  ravages,  and  accordingly  he  spared  no 
pains  to  frustrate  our  search  of  those  interesting  remains  in  our 
way  from  Megalopolis  to  Karitena. 

About  twenty  minutes  from  the  ruins  of  Agios-Georgios,  towards 
the  north-west,  and  near  the  village  of  Stala,  is  a  kephalo-brusi,  or 
large  spring  of  water  rushing  out  from  the  mountain,  in  a  deep 
glen,  and  forming  a  rapid  stream,  which  finds  its  way  by  the  ruins 
of  the  city,  and,  entering  the  plain  of  Megalopolis  to  the  north  of 
Delhi-Hassan,  unites  with  the  Alpheios. 

Another  rivulet  of  more  considerable  size  rises  near  the  village  of 
Issari,  and  running  to  the  south-west  of  Agios-Georgios,  also  joins 
the  Alpheios.  One  of  these  rivers  is  probably  the  Plataniston, 
which,  Pausanias  tells  us,  flowed  to  the  westward  of  Lykosoura, 
and  was  passed  in  going  to  Phigalia. 

He  says  that  the  Nomian  Mountains  rise  to  the  right  of  Lyko- 
soura. They  probably  constitute  the  range,  which  stretching  out 
to  the  Megalopolitan  plain,  was  included  in  the  ancient  territory  of 
Theisoaia.  Their  deep  recesses  and  their  solitary  wilds  are  watered 
with  numerous  clear  and  rapid  streams,  rushing  over  a  rocky  bed, 
and  imparting  a  luxuriant  verdure  to  the  large  trees  which  shade 
their  banks.  The  pastures  of  these  mountains  retain  much  of  their 
ancient  celebrity;  and  numerous  goats  and  sheep  are  seen  on  the 
hills  where  Pan  fed  his  flocks.  The  mountains  of  the  Melpeian1 
region  resound  on  all  sides  with  the  pipe  which  the  god  is  said  to 


1  See  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  3S.  7o  xwputv  ovojxaj'oug-i  'MiXfeiar. 


THE  NOMIAN  MOUNTAINS.  397 

have  invented  on  the  spot.  The  pastoral  inhabitants  of  the  sur- 
rounding villages  are  a  hardy  and  handsome  race,  evincing  a  spirit 
of  probity  and  independence,  and  exercising  hospitality  and  kind- 
ness to  strangers.  After  having  remained  the  whole  day  among 
the  ruins  of  Agios-Georgios,  we  passed  the  night  at  the  neighbour- 
ing village  of  Stala;  and  the  next  morning,  February  the  25th, 
proceeded  on  our  journey  to  Laconia. 


TO  AGIE  BASILE. 


In  twenty  minutes  we  crossed  a  rivulet,  and  proceeded  to  the 
left  of  Agios-Georgios,  and  in  fifty  minutes  more  crossed  another 
stream  which  rises  near  Issari,  and  runs  towards  the  south-east, 
finding  its  way  to  the  plain  of  Megalopolis  and  the  Alpheios.  Its 
banks  are  shaded  by  plane  trees  of  a  magnificent  size.  We 
passed  near  the  villlage  of  Delhi-Hassan,  proceeded  for  twenty 
minutes  through  a  forest  of  oaks,  and  came  to  some  pleasing  and 
richly  cultivated  hills.  We  crossed  a  stream,  and  observed  the 
ground  covered  with  ancient  tiles  and  small  stones.  We  then 
descended  by  degrees  amongst  the  sinuosities  of  the  Lycuean  hills, 
to  the  plain  of  Megalopolis;  and  near  the  village  of  Dederbey 
crossed  a  rivulet,  and  in  forty  minutes  more  crossed  another; 
and  half  an  hour  further  came  to  a  fountain  situated  between  two 
contiguous  villages.  We  passed  by  another  fountain,  and  ascended 
gently  to  the  large  village  of  Leontari,  situated  on  a  rising  ground 
at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  plain  of  Megalopolis,  and  in- 
habited by  Greeks  and  Turks.     There  are  traces  in  and  about  the 


398  RUINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  CITY. 

village,  which,  as  some  have  imagined,  mark  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Leuktron,  which  being  a  border  town  occasioned  frequent  disputes 
between  the  Spartans  and  the  Megalopolitans.  Leontari  is  men- 
tioned by  George  Phranza"  as  a  large  town  in  the  15th  century. 

In  half  an  hour  from  this  place  we  traversed  some  ground 
covered  with  tiles  and  stones,  and  in  an  hour  more  came  to  a  small 
cluster  of  cottages  called  Petrlna,  characterised  by  vestiges  of  high 
antiquity.  At  the  distance  of  fifty  minutes  further  are  traces 
of  a  considerable  extent,  consisting  of  foundations  of  walls  com- 
posed of  rough  stones  of  large  dimensions,  and  a  great  quan- 
tity of  ancient  bricks.  It  took  us  twenty-five  minutes  to  pass 
through  the  ruins,  which  indicate  the  site  of  an  ancient  city  of 
uncertain  name.  We  were  informed  that  about  an  hour  from 
this  place,  towards  the  east,  are  the  ruins  of  a  town,  at  present 
denominated  Agia-Eirene,  containing  some  interesting  remains, 
near  a  village  called  Colllna,  but  which  I  neglected  to  visit,  as  the 
way  was  impracticable  on  horseback.  Some  travellers  imagine  it 
to  be  Belemina,  which,  according  to  Pausanias,2  was  in  Laconia,  but 
originally  belonged  to  Arcadia.  In  the  time  of  Cleomenes,  it  formed 
a  point  of  dispute  between  the  Spartans  and  the  Megalopolitans.3 

Continuing  our  route,  a  deserted  monastery  is  observed  on  the 
right,  and  the  village  of  Longaniko  in  a  valley  to  the  left.  The  road 
now  led  up  an  ascent,  and  passed  near  a  monastery  on  a  hill.  We 
arrived  at  Agie-Basile,  a  large  village,  six  hours  and  a  half  from 
Stala ;  it  occupies  the  upper  part  of  a  hill  called  Longaniko,  which 
unites  the  chain  of  Ta}geton  and  Lycaeon.  The  spot  is  picturesque, 
and  ample  forests  furnish  it  with  verdure  and  shade.  It  overlooks  a 
fine  plain,  or  rather  a  deep  hollow,  bounded  by  rugged  mountains, 
and  beautifully  varied  with  soft  hills  and  green  vales. 


1  B.  3.  c.  7.  Paris  edit. 
a  B.  8.  c.  35.    He  sometimes  writes  it  Blenina;  Ptolem)'  writes  it  Blemmina. 
3  Plutarch's  Life  of  Cleomenes. 


SOURCE  OF  THE  EUROTAS.  399 


TO  MISITHRA. 

The  next  day,  the  26th,  we  set  out  for  Misithra,  and  in  the  space 
of  forty-five  minutes  crossed  three  streams,  which  turn  some  small 
mills.  In  an  hour  and  thirty-five  minutes  from  Agie-Basile,  we 
came  to  a  fine  kephalo-brusi,  or  spring,  rushing  copiously  from  the 
ground,  and  immediately  accumulating  into  a  rapid  current  in  the 
direction  of  Sparta. 

This  is  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Eurotas.  The  spot  has  been 
much  ornamented,  and  several  large  blocks  of  stone,  and  founda- 
tions, are  seen  scattered  about,  which  perhaps  mark  the  site  of  the  city 
of  Pellana,'  as  the  fountain  is  the  Pellanis.  We  soon  crossed  the 
stream  which  it  produces,  and  proceeded  on  its  western  side, 
through  a  grove  of  mulberry  trees,  which  abound  in  the  Spartan 
plain.  The  silk  which  is  made  at  Misithra,  near  Sparta,  is  of  an  ex- 
cellent quality,  and  forms  a  principal  part  of  the  riches  of  the  place. 

We  made  a  slight  deviation  from  the  road,  and  ascended  an  emi- 
nence, to  take  a  view  of  Taygeton ;  but  the  grandeur  of  the  moun- 
tain is  not  seen  from  this  direction. 

We  returned  to  the  road,  passed  a  short  way  to  the  right  of  a 
village  called  Trupe,  and  observed  some  ancient  traces  and  founda- 
tions of  walls.  These  remains  are  frequent  throughout  Laconia, 
and  indicate,  perhaps,  some  of  the  hundred  cities  of  Hecatompolis,* 
which,  according  to  Strabo,5  were,  as  early  as  the  time  of  Lycurgus, 
reduced  to  about  thirty  small  *  towns.  Not  far  from  Pellana  was  the 
town  of  Charakoma.? 

We  pursued  our  journey,  and  in  three  quarters  of  an  hour  crossed  six 


1  Pausan.  b.  3.  c.  21.  *  One  of  the  ancient  names  of  Laconia.  3  B.  8.  p.  362. 

*  IToAi^vaj.  5  Pausan.  b.  3.  c.  21. 


400  RUINS  OF  AN  AQUEDUCT. 

rivulets,  all  descending  from  Taygeton,  which  rcse  nobly  on  our 
right.  Of  these  streams  the  last  is  of  considerable  size,  and  is 
named  Kastanias  Potamos,  as  its  source  is  near  the  village  of  Kas- 
tania.  They  all  enter  the  Eurotas,  after  a  short  and  rapid  course. 
The  Eurotas,  which  flowed  to  our  left,  has  its  left  bank  supported 
by  a  strong  ancient  wall  of  considerable  length,  composed  of  well- 
joined  irregular  polygons.  We  crossed  two  other  streams  which 
enter  the  river,  and  came  to  some  kruptai,  or  sepulchral  caverns,  cut 
in  the  rock,  near  which  we  found  the  following  inscription  on  grey 
marble : 

H  noAis 

.  .  AATAIAN$IA0KPATH2 

APiSTOTEAorrros .  .  .  . 

TIAPTIATIKOT  .  .  KAI  .  .  . 
0TAIA2ETTM0KAHS  .  .  . 
.  .  THSArAGOKAEOS   .  . 

NETrENEXTATiiN 

.  .  .  .TAnPftTIlN 

Not  far  from  this  spot,  are  two  round  hills,  in  the  form  of  tumuli, 
but  apparently  too  large  to  be  artificial.  Athengeus '  asserts,  that 
there  were  some  large  tumuli  {yu^alu.  peyccXa)  at  Sparta,  which  were 
said  to  be  the  sepulchres  of  the  Phrygians,  who  were  the  followers 
of  Pelops. 

Forty  minutes  from  this  place  we  crossed  a  stream,  and  came  to 
the  ruins  of  an  aqueduct  formed  of  arches,  and  built  of  Roman 
brick.  The  view  of  these  remains,  with  Taygeton  in  the  back 
ground,  is  one  of  the  grandest  and  most  picturesque  in  Greece  ! 

A  short  way  from  the  aqueduct,  we  crossed  a  rivulet ;  in  forty- 
six  minutes  from  which  we  passed  a  river,  probably  the  Tiason ; 
and  in  twenty  minutes  more  reached  Misithra,  which  is  six 
hours  from  Agie  Basile.     This  town  is  situated  at  the  eastern  foot 


Deipnosopli.  b.  14.  c.  5. 


TOWN  OF  MISITHKA.  401 

of  Taygeton.  The  castle,  which  is  in  ruins,  exhibits  its  mouldering 
form  on  a  grand  rock,  which  is  nearly  detached  from  the  body  of 
the  mountain.  The  origin  of  this  place  is  unknown,  and  there  is  no 
reason  for  supposing  it  of  ancient  date,  although  it  may  appear  sur- 
prising that  so  strong  and  advantageous  a  situation  should  have 
been  neglected  by  the  Spartans.  It  must,  however,  be  recollected, 
that  in  early  times  even  their  capital  was  unprotected  by  walls : 
they  despised  all  defence  except  that  which  arose  from  the  terror  of 
their  name  and  the  valour  of  their  arms,  and  disdained  to  be  in- 
debted for  their  security  to  strong  walls  and  artificial  ramparts. 

Until  within  these  few  years  it  was  generally  supposed  thatMisithra 
stood  upon  the  ruins  of  Sparta,  from  which  it  is,  however,  distant 
nearly  two  miles.  The  error  may  have  originated  from  the  arch- 
bishop of  Misithra  being  styled  ttj?  Aeczeduipovtu?  M^otoX/7^?.  Four- 
mont  imagines  that  it  is  the  ancient  Pharis,  as  he  asserts  that  one 
of  its  suburbs  is  now  called  Pharori.  Its  name,  however,  is  Parora, 
and  is  derived  from  its  situation  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  This 
was  indeed  a  name  not  unfrequently  given  by  the  ancients  to  the 
inhabitants  of  mountainous  districts,  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
Pedeians,  or  inhabitants  of  the  plain.  Herodotus '  mentions  the 
Paroreates,  who  inhabited  the  mountainous  parts  of  Eleia.  It  is  pro- 
bable that  Misithra  arose  out  of  the  ruins  of  Sparta,  which  appear  to 
have  been  abandoned  by  the  unworthy  descendants  of  the  Heraclidae, 
about  the  time  of  the  Turkish  invasion,  when  they  sought,  in  the 
rocks  and  precipices  of  Taygeton,  that  protection  which  they  could 
not  find  in  the  low  hills  and  gentle  eminences  of  the  Spartan  plain. 

Misithra  was  regarded  as  one  of  the  strongest  places  of  the  peninsula 
in  the  lower  ages :  the  despots  of  the  Morea  made  it  their  principal 
residence ;  and  we  know  that  the  Despots  Thomas  and  Demetrius, 
brothers  of  the  last  Constantine,  took  refuge  in  this  strong  hold, 
when  the  Morea  was  ravaged  by  the  troops  of  Mohamed  the  Second. 
It  was  occupied  for  some  time  by  the  Venetians,  and  finally  retaken 

•  B.  4.  c.  143. 
VOL.  II.  3  F 


402  TOWN  OF  MISITHKA. 

by  the  Turks.  It  is  at  present  governed  by  a  voivode,  and  contains 
near  7000  inhabitants,  who  are  principally  Greeks,  and  carry  on  a 
considerable  commerce  in  silk. 

Several  ancient  inscriptions,  and  some  sculptured  and  archi- 
tectural fragments,  may  be  seen  at  Misithra,  which  have,  no  doubt, 
been  brought  from  Sparta  or  Amyklai.  The  sculpture  is  generally 
indifferent;  but  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the  town  is  a  marble 
sarcophagus,  which  at  present  serves  as  the  receptacle  of  a  fountain. 
It  is  ornamented  with  sculpture  in  a  good  style,  but  much  defaced 
by  the  friction  of  those  who  draw  water  at  the  fount. 

We  were  hospitably  received,  and  well  lodged  in  the  house  of  the 
Greek,  Demetrio  Manusaki,  a  man  of  some  consequence  and  large 
property.  He  professed  to  feel  a  lively  interest  in  the  history  of  his 
Spartan  ancestors,  as  a  proof  of  which  he  names  one  of  his  sons 
Lycurgus,  and  the  other  Leonidas,  while  he  teaches  them  the  Hel- 
lenic language.    The  following  inscriptions  are  observed  at  Misithra. 

API2T0AAMI 
MOTAEINOM 
AIABIOTEME 
iiBANENIKAI 
IIOATAOEI 

MNAXIAPX0NTH2TEENTQIX 
AAAOISAnASIATTOYnO 
AEITETMASINMErAAOnPEnEI 
ASKAITHSEniTHAETTEPArr 
MNA2IAPXIAHNATTO0EN 
TnE2THA2TNKPIT0TKAI 
ANrnEPBAHTOTIlPONOI 
A2TEKAI$IA0TEIMIA2 
TIPOSAEHAMENHZTOAN 
AAftMATHSZEMNOTATHE 
KAinANTAIIPftTHZrrNAJ 
KOZATTOTATPHAIAIEENft 
THIETTTXOT 


CHAPTER  XL 

Ruins  of  Sparta— Panorama— Mount  Taygeton— Remains  of  Amyklai— From  Misithra  to  Tri- 
politza— Mount  Menalion— Ruins  of  Tegea— From  Tripolitza  to  Mantineia— Ruins  of  the 
city — To  Orchomenos — Description  of  its  ruins. 

TO  THE  RUINS  OF  SPARTA. 

vJN  the  27th  I  set  out,  accompanied  by  Demetrio  Manusaki,  to 
visit  the  ruins  of  Sparta.  Our  way  led  across  the  plain  in  an  eastern 
direction,  through  vineyards  and  mulberry  plantations.  In  half  an 
hour  we  reached  the  village  of  Magoula,  and  crossed  a  rapid  stream, 
probably  the  Tiason,  which,  descending  from  Taygeton,  enters  the 
Eurotas  near  the  ruins  of  Sparta.  Here  we  reached  the  first  remains 
of  the  Lacedeemonian  capital,  now  called  Palaio-Kastro,  consisting 
of  uncertain  traces,  and  heaps  of  large  stones  tossed  about  in  a  sort 
of  promiscuous  wreck.  In  ten  minutes  from  Magoula,  we  reached 
the  theatre,  which  is  of  large  dimensions.  The  koilon  is  excavated 
in  the  hill  which  rose  nearly  in  the  middle '  of  the  city,  and  which 
served  as  an  acropolis.  •  The  theatre  appears  of  Roman  construc- 
tion, and  the  walls  of  the  proscenium  are  principally  of  brick.  The 
white  marble  of  which  Pausanias  says  it  was  composed,  has  dis- 
appeared. The  early  Spartans3  did  not  permit  dramatic  perform- 
ances ;  their  theatre  was  used  only  for  public  exercises. 

Near  the  theatre  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  brick  tower,  which 
Manusaki  assured  me  was  the  pyrgos  of  Menelaos !  A  traveller 
must  not  expect  to  derive  any  information  whatever  from  the  gene- 
rality of  Greeks  upon  the  antiquities  of  their  country,  but  must  ex- 

1  Plutarch's  Life  of  Agesilaos.        a  Pausan.  b.  3.  c.  17.        5  Plutarch,  Instit.  Lacon. 

3f2 


404  RUINS  OF  SPARTA. 

tricate  himself  as  well  as  he  can,  from  the  dark  mazes  of  conjecture 
and  uncertainty,  by  the  topographical  light  of  Pausanias,  and  by 
the  few  scattered  materials  of  some  other  authors. 

The  hill  which  rises  from  the  theatie,  and  which  is  not  apparently 
above  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain,  has  evidently 
served  as  a  citadel,  and  has  been  surrounded  with  walls  which 
appear  to  have  been  constructed  in  haste,  since  they  are  composed 
of  those  materials  which  were  ready  at  hand,  as  fragments  of 
columns  and  inscriptions,  small  stones,  bricks  and  mortar.  Plutarch' 
alludes  to  constructions  of  this  kind.  Sparta  was  originally  without 
walls,  and  Lycurgus  prohibited  their  erection.2  Justin3  asserts  that 
the  Spartans  first  surrounded  their  capital  with  walls  when  Cas- 
sander  entered  the  Peloponnesos.  According  to  Livy4  they  were 
built  by  the  tyrants,  and  Plutarch5  says  that  they  were  destroyed 
by  Philopoemen.  Pausanias6  asserts  that  the  walls  were!  constructed 
with  precipitate  haste  when  Demetrius  and  Pyrrhus  besieged  Sparta. 
They  were  afterwards  strongly  fortified  by  the  tyrant  Nabis,  and 
destroyed  by  the  Achaeans,  by  whom  it  appears  that  they  were 
afterwards  rebuilt.7  According  to  Pausanias8  there  were  several 
hills  in  Sparta,  the  highest  of  which  was  the  acropolis.  He  com- 
pares it  to  the  Kadmeia  of  Thebes  and  to  the  Larissa  of  Argos,  and 
says  that  it  contained  several  temples.  The  former  glory  of  the 
Spartan  acropolis,  with  all  its  splendid  temples,  is  now  indicated 
only  by  some  strong  foundations  and  scattered  blocks  of  stone! 

A  fine  sepulchral  chamber  of  a  square  form,  regularly  constructed 
with  large  blocks,  is  situated  nearly  opposite  the  theatre,  and  a 
short  distance  from  it.  It  has  been  opened,  and  the  interior  is  com- 
posed of  brickwork.  According  to  Pausanias,  the  monuments  of 
the  Spartan  kings  Pausanias  and  Leonidas  were  opposite  the  theatre. 

Many  other  detached  ruins  are  dispersed  in  this  direction,  some 

1  De  prof,  in  virt.  sent.  p.  148.  2  Plutarch's  life  of  Agesilaos.  3  B.  ]4.  c.  5. 

4  B.  34.  c-  38.        *  Life  of  Philoptemen.        6  B.  1.  c.  8.         '  Pausan.  b.  7.  c.  9. 

8  B.  3.  c.  17. 


RUINS  OF  SPARTA.  405 

of  which  are  of  Roman  origin.  They  appear  to  have  suffered  more 
from  sudden  violence  than  from  gradual  decay,  and  have  no  doubt 
been  torn  to  pieces  to  supply  materials  for  the  modern  town  of 
Misithra.  Several  imperfect  inscriptions  have  been  found  amongst 
the  ruins  of  Sparta,  and  many  others  might  be  discovered. 

ATIO 
AlftlOTAI 
AANHHPil 
ANAAflMAA 
IEOTMENH 
TH2ANE 

After  I  had  taken  copies  of  some  of  these  inscriptions,  I  observed 
Manusaki  turning  them  over  and  concealing  them  under  stones  and 
bushes.  When  I  inquired  his  motive  for  such  unusual  caution,  he 
informed  me  that  he  did  it  in  order  to  preserve  them,  because  many 
years  ago  a  French  milordos  who  visiter!  Sparta,  after  having  copied  a 
great  number  of  inscriptions,  had  the  letters  chiselled  out  and  defaced. 
He  actually  pointed  out  to  me  some  fine  slabs  of  marble  from  which 
the  inscriptions  had  evidently  been  thus  barbarously  erased. 

The  fact  is  generally  known  at  Misithra,  and  it  was  mentioned  to 
me  by  several  persons  as  a  received  tradition.  This  must  doubtless 
have  been  one  of  the  mean,  selfish,  and  unjustifiable  operations  of 
the  Abbe  Fourmont,  who  travelled '  in  Greece  by  orders  of  Louis 
XV.  in  the  year  1729.  In  a  letter  to  the  Count  de  Maurepas,  he 
boasts  of  having  destroyed  the  inscriptions  in  order  that  they  might 
not  be  copied  by  any  future  traveller.2  But  it  is  conjectured  by 
many,  and  perhaps  not  without  reason,  that  his  principal  object  in 
obliterating  the  inscriptions  was,  that  he  might  acquire  the  power 
of  blending  forgery  and  truth  without  detection,  and  that  his  fear  of 
competition  was  subordinate  to  that  of  being  convicted  of  palaeo- 
graphical  imposture. 


1  His  manuscript  journal  and  inscriptions  are  in  the  king's  library  at  Paris. 
2  See  Lettres  sur  l'authenticite  des  inscriptions  de  Fourmont  par  Mons.  Raoul-Rochette, 
a  Paris,  1819.     See  the  first  letter,  p.  11. 


406  THE  ABBE  FOURMONT'S  INSCRIPTIONS. 

On  his  return  to  France  he  produced  a  vast  mass  of  inscriptions,' 
many  of  which  are  authentic,  and  have  since  been  copied  in  Greece, 
and  published  by  various  travellers.2  But  the  most  curious  part  of 
his  collection,  and  that  in  which  his  authenticity  is  particularly 
questionable,  are  his  inscriptions  of  Sparta  and  Amyklai,  in  which 
perfect  confidence  ought  not  to  be  reposed  without  great  caution. 
He  is,  however,  supported  by  some  of  his  learned  countrymen  ;  and 
two  interesting  papers  have  been  read5  before  the  French  Institute 
by  two  of  its  members,  of  whom  one4  vindicates  the  authenticity  of 
his  inscriptions,  and  the  other5  the  general  accuracy  of  his  journal. 

Whatever  his  defenders  may  allege  in  support  of  the  authenticity 
of  his  journals  and  his  inscriptions,  they  must  allow,  if  they  trust  to 
his  own  account,  that,  since  the  time  of  Alaric,  Greece  never  had  so 
formidable  an  enemy.  Great  ambition,  and  a  little  learning,  with 
an  unfeeling  indifference  for  the  monuments  of  antiquity,  incited  him 
to  destroy  some  of  the  most  venerable  and  interesting  records  of  an- 
cient history. 

It  is  difficult,  however,  to  credit  all  that  he  says  on  this  subject. 
The  fond  conceit  of  doing  what  no  one  had  done  before  him,  Avith 
the  desire  of  appearing  singular  and  great  in  the  eyes  of  his  pro- 
tectors, may  have  induced  him  to  exaggerate  even  the  account  of  his 
insensate  dilapidations.  However  this  may  be,  I  here  insert  some  ex- 
tracts from  his  letters  on  the  subject,  as  they  are  extremely  curious,  and 
are  not  generally  known  ;6  and  every  mind  not  destitute  of  taste,  and 
not  devoid  of  generous  sentiment,  must  be  struck  with  astonishment 
at  finding  him  making  an  ostentatious  avowal,  and  a  proud  boast  of 
his  deliberate  ravages,  and  of  his  worse  than  Gothic  demolitions. 


1  He  says  he  copied  one  thousand  five  hundred ;  three  hundred  of  which  at  Sparta  alone; 
*  Particularly  Dr.  Chandler.  5  In  August,  1818. 

*  By  Monsr.  Raoul  Rochette,  who  since  has  published  his  two  letters  upon  the  same 
subject,  which  are  replete  with  erudition  and  sound  criticism. 

'  By  Monsr.  Louis  Petit  Radel. 
6  These  letters,  which  are  iu  the  king's  library  at  Paris,  are  addressed  from  different  parts 
of  Greece  to  the  Count  de  Maurepas,  to  Monsr.  Freret,  the  Abbe  Sevin,  and  others. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  THE  LETTERS  OF  FOURMONT.  407 

"  Je  Fai  fait,  non  pas  raser,  mais  abattre  de  fond  en  comble.  II 
n'y  a  plus  de  toute  cette  grande  ville,  une  pierre  sur  une  autre,"  &c. 
— "  Depuis  plus  de  trente  jours,  trente,  et  quelques  fois  quarante 
ou  soixante  ouvriers,  abattent,  detruisent,  exterminent  la  ville  de 
Sparte,"  &c. — "  Je  n'ai  plus  que  quatre  tours  a  demolir,"  &c. — 
"  A  vous  parler  franchement,  je  m'etonne  de  cette  expedition.  Je 
n'ai  point  lu  que  depuis  le  renquvellement  des  lettres,  il  soit  venu 
dans  l'esprit  de  quelqu'un  de  bouleverser  ainsi  des  villes  entieres,"  &c. 
— "  Dans  le  moment  que  je  suis  occupe  a  la  derniere  destruction  de 
Sparte,  &c.  Imaginez  vous,  si  vous  pouvez,  dans  quelle  joye  je  suis. 
Elle  est  des  plus  grandes ;  mais  elle  seroit  extreme  si  on  m'avoit 
laisse  faire  encore  quelque  temps.  Mantinee,  Stymphalus,  Pallan- 
tion,  Tegee,  et  sur  tout  Olympia  et  Nemee,  meritoient  bien  que 
je  les  renversasse  de  fond  en  comble;  j'en  ai  Fautorite,"  &c. — 
"  J'ai,  chemin  faisant,  cherche  les  anciennes  villes  de  ce  pays,  et 
j'en  ai  detruit  quelques  unes  ;  entre  autres  Hermione,  Trezene,  Ty- 
rins,  *  la  moitie  de  la  citadelle  d'Argos,  Phliasia,  Phineos,  et  apres 
avoir  perce  dans  la  Magne  autant  que  la  prudence  Fa  pu  permettre, 
je  suis  depuis  six  semaines,  occupe  a  la  derniere  et  totale  destruc- 
tion de  Sparte,"  &c. — "  Si  en  renversant  ses  murs  et  ses  temples,  si 
en  ne  laissant  pas  une  pierre  sur  une  autre  au  plus  petit  de  ses 
sacellums,  son  lieu  sera  dans  la  suite  ignore,  j'ai  au  moins  de  quoi 
la  faire  reconnoitre,  et  c'est  quelque  chose,  je  n'avois  que  ce  moyen  Id, 
pour  rendre  illustre  mon  voyage,"  Sec. — "  Quand  j'aurai  totalement 
detruit  Sparte  et  Amycles,  j'irai  a  Naples  de  Romanie,"  &c. — "  Ce 
n'est  pourtant  qu'en  agissant  de  cette  maniere  que  Von  peut  etre 
utile  aux  lettres.  Sparte  est  la  cinquieme  ville  de  Moree  que  j'ai 
renvers6e,  Hermione  et  Trezene  ont  subi  le  meme  sort— je  n'ai  pas 
pardonne  a  Argos,  a  Phliasia,"  &c. — "  Je  suis  actuellement  occupe 
a  detruire  jusqu'a  la  pierre  fondamentale  du  temple  d'Apollon 

1  The  erroneous  orthography  of  the  original  manuscript  of  Fourmont  is  here  followed. 


408  SPARTA. 

Amycleen,"  &c.— - "  J'en  detruirois  meme  d'autres  avec  autant  de 
facilite,  si  on  me  laissoit  faire." 

And,  after  dwelling  with  such  complacency  on  this  long  list  of 
horrors,  he  dares  sign  himself  Fourmont  ^cc^iaaog.  He  might  with 
much  more  justice  have  assumed  the  name  of  Polyorcetes.  I  have 
not  inserted  extracts  from  all  his  letters  on  this  subject,  as  they  are 
merely  repetitions.  He  mentions  his  destruction  of  Hermione  and 
Troezen  with  a  kind  of  satisfaction,  which  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  no 
one  ever  felt  before,  or  afterwards. 

After  stating  that  he  found  many  inscriptions  at  the  former,  he 
adds,  "  Mais  il  en  a  coute  le  chateau,  je  l'ai  totalement  abattu,"  &c. 
Of  Troezen  he  says,  "  J'ai  abattu  tous  les  vieux  restes  de  forteresses 
et  de  temples.  Je  ne  me  souviens  pas  d'avoir  vu  dans  les  relations 
des  voyageurs  que  nront  precede,  qu'ils  ay ent  jamais  os6  abattre  des 
chateaux,  ou  d'autres  grands  batimens." 

The  best  account  which  the  ancients  have  left  us  of  the  situation 
of  Sparta  is  that  of  Polybius.1  He  says,  "It  is  of  a  circular  form, 
and  forty-eight  stadia  in  circumference,  situated  in  a  plain,  but  con- 
taining some  rough  places  and  eminences.  The  Eurotas  flows  to 
the  east,  and  the  copiousness  of  its  waters  renders  it  too  deep  to  be 
forded  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  The  hills  on  which  the 
Menelaion  is  situated  are  on  the  south-east  of  the  city,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river.  They  are  rugged,  difficult  of  ascent,  of  con- 
siderable height,  and  throw  their  shadows  over  the  space  which  is  be- 
tween the  city  and  the  Eurotas.  The  river  flows  close  to  the  foot  of 
the  hills,  which  are  not  above  a  stadium  and  a  half  from  the  city." 

Little  addition  can  be  made  to  this  brief  but  accurate  description  of 
the  historian,  except  with  respect  to  the  magnificence  of  the  surround- 
ing scenery.  All  the  plains  and  all  the  mountains  that  I  have  seen 
are  surpassed  in  the  variety  of  their  combinations  and  the  beauty  of 
their  appearance  by  the  plain  of  Lacedaemon  and  Mount  Taygeton. 


»  B.  5.  p.  369. 


PLAIN  OF  SPARTA.— RIVER  EUROTAS.  409 

The  landscape  may  be  exceeded  in  the  dimensions  of  its  objects, 
but  what  can  exceed  it  in  beauty  of  form  and  richness  of  colouring? 

The  plain,  as  viewed  from  Sparta,  assumes  an  oblong  appearance, 
glowing  with  every  tint  that  nature  so  profusely  blends  when  she 
means  most  to  charm  the  eye  and  delight  the  mind,  while  its  natural 
attractions  are  increased  by  assiduous  cultivation.  The  level  surface 
of  the  plain  is  interrupted  by  small  hills,  or  broken  into  occasional 
intervals  of  picturesque  ruggedness.  This  scenery  is  enlivened  by 
the  lucid  current  of  the  Eurotas  gliding  close  to  the  ruins,  and 
gently  meandering  towards  the  south,1  when  it  loses  itself  at  the 
distance  of  several  miles  amongst  the  undulating  hills  of  Maina, 
which  intercept  the  view  of  the  Laconian  gulf,2  the  Teenarian  pro- 
montory,' and  the  port  of  Gythion.4 

According  to  Plutarch,5  the  first  name  of  the  Eurotas  was  Mara- 
thon ;  it  then  took  the  name  of  Himeros,  from  a  son  of  Lacedsemon 
and  the  nymph  Taygeta,  the  former  of  whom  drowned  himself  in  it. 
It  afterwards  assumed  the  name  of  the  Spartan  Eurotas,  who  also 
perished  in  its  stream.  But  Pausanias6  asserts  that  it  received  its 
name  from  Eurotas,  because  he  made  a  canal  which  conducted  its 
stagnant  waters  to  the  sea.  It  was  also  called  Basilopotamos, 
which  name  it  retains  to  the  present  day,  though  its  most  common 
appellation  is  Iri.  During  its  course  it  is  augmented  by  a  great 
many  rivulets  from  Taygeton. 

The  Menelaian  hills,7  which  bound  the  eastern  side  of  the  plain, 
are  not  so  high  as  would  appear  from  the  description  of  Polybius;8 
their  sides  are  steep,  furrowed  and  shattered  by  earthquakes,  but 
they  are  mere  hillocks  when  compared  to  Taygeton.     Their  summit 


1  Sub  ipsis  prope  fluentem  mcenibus.     Livy,  b.  34.  c.  28. 
2  Now  the  Gulf  of  Kolochina.  s  Now  Cape  Matapan. 

4  There  are  few  remains  of  the  town  of  Gythion  ;  Marathonisi,  the  capital  of  Maina,  is  in 
its  vicinity.  5  De  flumin.  6  B.  3.  c.  1. 

7  Mons  Menelaius.     Livy,  b.  34.  c.  28.  8  B.  5.  p.  369. 

VOL.    II.  5  G 


410  MOUNT  TAYGETON. 

forms  a  flat  and  extensive  surface.  From  the  western  side  of  the 
plain  rise  the  grand  and  abrupt  precipices  of  Taygeton,  which 
is  broken  into  many  summits.  The  bases  also  of  the  mountain 
are  formed  by  several  projections  distinct  from  each  other,  which 
branch  into  the  plain,  and  hence  produce  that  rich  assemblage  and 
luxuriating  multiplicity  of  lines,  and  tints,  and  shades,  which  render 
it  the  finest  locality  in  Greece.  It  runs  in  a  direction  nearly  north 
and  south,  uniting  towards  the  north  with  the  chain  of  Lyca?on, 
and  terminating  its  opposite  point  at  the  Taenarian  promontory. 
Its  western  side  rises  from  the  Messenian  gulf,  and  its  eastern  foot 
bounds  the  level  plain  of  Amyklai,  from  which  it  rises  abruptly, 
adding  considerably  to  its  apparent  height,  which  is  probably  in- 
ferior only  to  Pindos,  Cyllene,  and  Olympos.  It  is  visible  from 
Zakunthos,  which,  in  a  straight  line,  is  distant  from  it  at  least  eighty- 
four  miles.  The  northern  crevices  are  covered  with  snow  during  the 
whole  of  the  year.  Its  outline,  particularly  as  seen  from  the  north,  is 
of  a  more  serrated  form  than  the  other  Grecian  mountains.  It  has 
five  principal  summits,  whence  it  derived  the  modern  name  of  Pente- 
daktulos,  as  it  was  designated  by  Constantine  Porphyrogenetos. l  In 
winter  it  is  covered  with  snow,  which  renders  the  vicinity  extremely 
cold.2  In  summer  it  reflects  a  powerful  heat  upon  the  Spartan  plain, 
from  which  it  keeps  the  salubrious  visit  of  the  western  winds,  and 
thus  makes  it  one  of  the  hottest5  places  in  Greece,  and  subjects  the 
inhabitants  to  fevers.  The  glens  of  the  mountain  are  watered  with 
frequent  rivulets,  and  enriched  with  trees  of  a  large  size.  Behind 
the  rock  of  Misithra  is  a  cypress,  the  stem  of  which  is  thirty  feet  in 
circumference.4 

Laconia  was  very  subject  to  earthquakes,  and  Strabo5  mentions 
a  traditionary  report,  that  one  of  the  summits  of  Taygeton  had  been 
precipitated  into  the  plain.     We  know  from  Diodorus,6  Plutarch,7 


*  De  administ.  Imp.  Imperii  Orientalis,  seu  Antiq.  C.  P.  Pars.  2.  c.  50.  p.  133.  Paris 
edit.  2  Aliman's  Fragments.  3  Iamblicus  Vit.  Pythag. 

4  Nine  feet,  5*9  in  diameter.         5  B.  8.  p.  367.         6  B.  1  I.e.  63.         7  Life  of  Cimon. 


MOUNT  TAYGETON.  411 

Pliny,'  and  others,  that  in  the  reign  of  Archidamos,  the  whole  of 
Sparta  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  except  five  houses.  To 
similar  causes,  as  well  as  to  the  proximity  of  the  modern  town  of 
Misithra,  and  to  the  dilapidating  fury  of  the  Abbe  Fourmont,  may 
be  attributed  the  state  of  total  ruin  to  which  the  Laconian  capital 
is  at  present  reduced.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  was  named 
Taleton,*  and  was  sacred  to  the  sun,  to  Avhom,  horses  as  well  as 
other  victims,  were  sacrificed  on  the  spot,  which  is  now  occupied 
by  the  church  of  Saint  Elias.  Taleton  was  adjacent  to  that  part  of 
the  mountain  called  Euoras,  which  abounded  in  wild  beasts. 

According  to  Strabo,3  the  Ksa^ai  were  fissures4  in  the  mountain 
formed  by  earthquakes ;  and  to  the  same  cause  we  may  ascribe  the 
Barathron  upon  Taygeton,  down  which,  according  to  Plutarch, s 
deformed  children  were  precipitated.  When  the  Messenian  Aristo- 
menes  was  condemned  to  death  by  the  Spartans,  he  was  cast  into 
the  Keadas ;  but  as  his  shield,  which  he  was  permitted  to  keep, 
struck  against  the  sides  of  the  rock,  it  broke  the  violence  of  the  fall, 
and  he  arrived  unhurt  at  the  bottom  of  the  cave.  He  found  an 
opening  in  the  rock  through  which  he  made  his  escape.6  From  this 
account  it  is  evident  that  the  Keadas  was  a  deep  fissure7  in  the  rock, 
some  of  which  are  still  seen  behind  Misithra  and  Parora.  The 
Athenian  Barathron  was  probably  an  artificial  pit. 

According  to  Plutarch,8  the  ancient  name  of  Taygeton  was 
Amykleos.  Many  authors  have  boasted  the  rich  marbles  of  this  moun- 
tain, which  Strabo9  informs  us  were  excavated  by  the  Romans. 
Pausanias'0  mentions  a  marble  found  atKrokeai,  near  Gythion,  which 


1  Nat.  Hist.  b.  2.  c.  79.                 2  Pausan.  b.  3.  c.  20.  3  B.  8.  p.  367. 
4  There  is  a  rocky  hill  near  Tivoli  called  Monte  Spaccato,  in  which  there  is  a  perpen- 
dicular chasm  of  unknown  depth.                         5  Life  of  Lycurgus. 

6  Pausanias  says  it  was  supposed  that  an  eagle  supported  him  in  his  fall,  b.  4.  c.  18. 

which  may  be  explained  by  the  eagle  being  represented  on  his  shield.  See  Pausan.  b.  4.  c.  16. 

i  From  Kea&,  findo.               '  De  flumin.               9  B.  8.  p.  10  B.  3.  c.  21. 

3  G  2 


412  MOUNT  TAYGETON. 

was  probably  the  Lacedaemonian  green,"  which  some  have  imagined 
to  be  the  verde  antico.  I  had  not  time  to  search  for  the  quarries, 
but  I  observed  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  a  great  quantity  of 
marble,  the  principal  colour  of  which  is  dark  green,  with  spots  of 
red  and  white,  resembling  that  called  Affricano  by  the  Italians,  but 
of  a  quality  inferior  to  the  species  which  is  seen  at  Rome.  Pliny2 
says,  that  the  marble  excavated  at  the  Taenarian  promontory  was 
black.     It  is  probably  the  nero  antico  of  the  Italians. 

Taygeta,  daughter  of  Atlas  and  Pleione,  and  mother  of  Lacedae- 
mon  by  Jupiter,  gave  her  name  to  the  mountain.3  Sparta,  daughter 
of  Eurotas,  married  Lacedtemon,  giving  her  name  to  the  Laconian 
capital ;  and  their  son,  Amyklos,  conferred  his  name  upon  a  city 
near  Taygeton. 

After  employing  two  days  in  examining  the  almost  unintelligible 
ruins  of  Sparta,  and  taking  a  panoramic  view  from  a  hill  to  the 
north  of  the  acropolis,  I  made  an  excursion,  with  Manusaki,  to  the 
remains  of  Amyklai,  and  some  other  ruins  in  the  plain. 

We  quitted  Misithra,  and  proceeding  in  a  southern  direction, 
along  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  soon  reached  the  large  village  of 
Parora,  which  joins  the  suburbs  of  Misithra.  This  place  has 
nothing  that  merits  remark,  except  its  situation  at  the  foot  of 
some  of  the  finest  precipices  of  Taygeton,  which  rise  in  perpen- 
dicular and  fantastic  forms,  from  glens  covered  with  wood  and 
irrigated  with  numerous  streams. 

We  drew  this  beautiful  spot,  and  then  continued  our  route  to 
Amyklai,  where  we  arrived  in  about  two  hours  from  Misithra.  It 
is  now  called  Sclavo  Chorio,  and  exhibits  a  more  confused  wreck 
of  ruins  than  even  the  Spartan  capital.  Accumulations  of  stone, 
broken  inscriptions,  imperfect  traces  and  foundations,  that  are  almost 


1  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  36.  c.  1.     Pretiosissimi  quidem  generis    Lacedsemonium  viride 
cunctis  hilarius.  '  B.  36.  c.  22.  3  Pausan.  b.  3.  c.  1. 


RUINS  OF  AMYKLAI.  413 

covered  with  bushes,  mark  the  site  of  the  place  which  was  celebrated 
for  the  birth  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  and  for  the  death  of  Hyacinthus. 

The  remains  of  a  large  temple,  perhaps  that  of  Apollo,  are  com- 
posed of  square  slabs  of  variegated  marble,  near  which  are  some 
imperfect  bas-reliefs  in  a  bad  style.  The  temple  was  magnificent," 
and  the  colossal  statue  and  throne  of  the  Amyklaian  Apollo  were 
amongst  the  wonders  of  Greece. 

This  place  must  have  been  of  some  importance  in  the  lower  ages, 
if  we  may  judge  from  the  number  of  ruined  churches  that  are  scat- 
tered over  the  surface.  It  was  known  by  its  present  name  as  early 
as  the  year  1447,  and  is  mentioned  by  George  Phranza.2  It  is  a 
bishopric,  but  the  ILadoihiKov,  or  cathedral,  is  almost  destroyed.  The 
surrounding  country  luxuriates  in  fertility,  and  abounds  in  mulber- 
ries, olives,  and  all  the  fruit  trees  which  grow  in  Greece.  Accord- 
ing to  Poly bius, '  it  was  the  most  fertile  part  of  Laconia;  it  was 
twenty  stadia  from  Sparta ;  its  distance,  however,  appears  at  least 
double,  and  I  conceive  that  there  must  be  some  error  in  the  reckon- 
ing of  Polybius. 

Above  these  ruins  rises  one  of  the  detached  hills  of  Taygeton, 
upon  the  summit  of  which  are  the  remains  of  a  castle,  which 
Manusaki  assured  me  was  the  acropolis  of  Amyklai.  As  I  did  not 
visit  the  spot,  I  cannot  affirm  whether  the  ruins  are  of  ancient 
date.  Not  far  from  its  base,  I  was  informed  there  was  the  en- 
trance of  a  subterraneous  aperture,  of  artificial  fabrication,  and 
penetrating  through  the  entire  of  the  mountain.  Several  persons 
assured  me  they  had  been  in  it,  that  it  was  about  the  height  of  a 
man,  but  that  no  one  had  attempted  to  proceed  far  into  it.  The 
story  of  its  permeating  the  mountain  seems  an  idle  tale;  but  it 
may  have  been  excavated  for  the  extraction  of  the  marbles  with 
which  these  rocks  abounded. 

Mount  Taygeton  merits  the  particular  attention  of  travellers  ;  its 

Potyb.  b.  5.  p.  367.  '  B.  2.  c.  19.  p.  72.  Paris  edit.  3  Loc.  cit. 


414  MOUNT  TAYGETON. 

natural  history,  its  magnificent  scenery,  and  its  ancient  celebrity, 
well  deserve  to  be  explored  with  a  more  elaborate  and  minute 
scrutiny  than  I  had  leisure  to  bestow.  Indeed,  such  was  then  the 
state  of  the  country,  that  had  I  been  willing  to  ascend  to  its  summit, 
I  should  not  have  procured  the  assistance  of  a  guide ;  and,  as  I  was 
fatigued,  and  unwell,  I  was  not  so  sorry  as  I  should  otherwise  have 
been,  to  find  obstacles  in  the  way  of  undertakings  which  could  not 
have  been  accomplished  without  great  additional  toil.  During  my 
stay  at  Misithra,  some  Turkish  soldiers  were  sent  to  seize  a  village 
called  Pigadia,  at  the  distance  of  four  hours,  on  the  western  side  of 
Taygeton,and  which  was  in  the  possession  of  a  large  body  of  thieves. 
As  I  had  proceeded  on  my  journey  before  the  return  of  the  Turks, 
I  cannot  relate  the  result  of  their  expedition. 

The  mountaineers  of  Laconia,  the  Tzakoniotes,  are  the  finest 
people  in  Greece;  robust,  warlike,  and  hospitable,  they  retain  more 
of  their  ancient  customs,  language,  and  liberty,  than  the  inhabitants 
of  any  other  part  of  the  peninsula.  They  are  the  remains  of  the 
Eleuthero-Laconic  confederation,  which  was  rendered  independent 
of  Sparta  by  Augustus.  They  name  their  country  Tzakonia;1  an 
evident  corruption  for  Laconia. 

I  was  deterred  from  visiting  Maina  by  the  severity  of  the  weather, 
and  the  great  number  of  the  banditti  which  at  that  time  infested 
the  country.  The  Mainiotes  are  governed  by  fourteen  chiefs,  who 
are  chosen  by  the  captain  pasha ;  but  they  are  frequently  in  a  state 
of  dissension  with  each  other.  Their  territory  consists  of  about  one 
hundred  villages,  and  forty-five  thousand  inhabitants. 

On  quitting  the  ruins  of  Amyklai,  we  left  the  mountain  on  the 
right,  and  proceeding  about  an  hour  to  the  south-east,  came  to  a 
small  hill,  or  tumulus,  near  the  village  of  Baphio.  The  side  of  the 
hill  has  been  excavated,  and  a  gate  discovered  similar  to  the  entrances 
of  the  treasuries  at  Mycenae,   but  of  smaller  dimensions.      It  is 


1  See  Nicephorus  Gregoras,  Hist.  Byzant.  b.  4.  c.  5.  p.  5S.  Paris  edit. 


MOUNT  TAYGETON.  415 

impossible  to  penetrate  the  building,  as  it  is  rilled  with  earth  and 
stones,  the  roof  having  apparently  fallen  in.  There  is  every  reason 
to  suppose  that  it  is  a  circular  building,  resembling  those  of  My- 
cenae ;  an  excavation  would  determine  this  interesting  point.  This 
ruin  is  not  generally  known,  and  I  am  not  certain  if  it  has  been  seen 
by  other  travellers. 

We  returned  to  Misithra  in  the  evening,  and  rose  early  on  the 
next  morning,  the  3d  of  March,  in  order  to  continue  our  journey, 
and  to  visit  the  parts  of  Arcadia  which  I  had  not  yet  seen.  The 
preceding  day  was  so  fair  and  warm,  and  exhibited  so  much  of  the 
attractive  aspect  of  a  forward  spring,  that,  had  I  not  been  deterred 
by  the  fear  of  the  banditti,  I  should  probably  have  determined  to 
ascend  Taygeton,  to  examine  the  view  which  it  must  command  over 
the  greater  part  of  Greece.  My  surprise  may  easily  be  imagined 
when,  on  rising  the  next  morning,  I  beheld  the  whole  mountain 
covered  with  snow  from  its  summit  to  its  base.  The  changes  in  this 
climate  are  so  rapid,  and  so  unexpected,  that  the  extremes  of  heat 
and  cold  are  sometimes  experienced  in  the  same  day. 


TO  TRIPOLITZA. 


As,  however,  the  weather  cleared  up,  we  quitted  Misithra,  passed 
by  the  Roman  aqueduct  on  the  road  to  Leondari,  and  in  thirty-two 
minutes  from  Misithra  came  to  the  Eurotas,  which  we  crossed  over 
a  bridge  of  one  arch.  At  this  point  the  river  is  narrow,  and  com- 
pressed by  rocks,  which,  in  some  places,  are  cut  into  steps,  near  the 
water's  edge.     We  began  to  ascend  the  Menelaian  hills,  which  are 


416  EXTRAORDINARY  FALL  OF  SNOW. 

uncultivated,  and  covered  with  small  bushes.  The  view  ofTaygeton, 
and  the  plain,  is  magnificent  from  this  spot;  but  clouds  veiled  the 
summits  of  the  mountain,  and  a  most  violent  fall  of  snow  soon  after 
overtook  us  on  the  road,  and  obliged  us  to  stop  at  a  miserable  khan, 
which  is  about  three  hours  and  forty  minutes  from  Misithra.  The 
only  objects  we  saw  on  our  way  were  a  fountain,  some  tiles  scattered 
about  it,  with  some  imperfect  vestiges.  Polybius1  and  Pausanias* 
mention  a  place  called  Skotitas,  between  Tegea  and  Sparta ;  which 
may  have  been  near  the  khan. 

The  next  morning,  March  the  4th,  we  proceeded  on  our  journey, 
though  the  sky  was  overcast  and  lowering.  But  our  khan  was 
so  extremely  cold  and  forlorn,  that  we  preferred  braving  the 
weather  to  the  chance  of  being  blocked  up  by  snow  in  such  a 
miserable  habitation.  This  misfortune  sometimes  happens  on  such 
occasions,  and  it  would  inevitably  have  befallen  us  had  we  not  pro- 
ceeded ;  for  we  had  not  quitted  the  khan  half  an  hour  before  the 
thickest  snow  that  I  ever  saw  began  to  fall,  and  continued,  with 
hardly  any  intermission,  for  twenty-five  hours.  The  flakes  of  snow 
were  the  largest  I  had  ever  seen,  and  the  whole  country  around  was 
become  a  scene  of  dreary  desolation. 

In  four  hours  we  passed  by  a  fount,  and  soon  after  crossed  a 
winding  torrent  bed  several  times,  which,  from  the  multiplicity  of 
its  inflections,  is  called  Saranta  Potamoi,  the  forty  rivers.  The 
snow  had  now  fallen  so  thick  that  the  ground  was  completely 
covered,  and  we  at  length  lost  all  traces  of  the  road.  Our  horses 
slipped  about  in  the  mud  till  they  were  too  much  fatigued  to 
proceed,  and  we  were  frequently  obliged  to  stop  and  give  them 
rest.  Our  prospect  now  became  far  from  agreeable,  not  a  habita- 
tion could  be  descried  on  this  deserted  road,  and  we  had  every 
reason  to  fear  that  we  should  be  obliged  to  return  to  the  misera- 
ble  khan   we   had  left  behind    us  ;   but   it  was   not  certain  even 


'  B.  16.  p.  741.  .  B.  3.  c.  10. 


TOWN  OF  TRIPOLITZA.  417 

that  we  could  find  it,  as  the  snow  had  so  totally  altered  the  features 
of  the  country. 

We  accordingly  preferred  proceeding  towards  Tripolitza,  and  con- 
tinued our  way  in  a  direct  line  over  the  plain,  which  was  perfectly 
open,  without  trees  or  hedges,  until  at  length  we  came  to  some  cot- 
tages, which  we  were  happy  to  find  belonged  to  the  village  of  Piali, 
situated  on  the  ruins  of  Tegea.  We  soon  distinguished  Tripolitza,  with 
Mount  Mainalion  rising  behind  it,  and  arrived  there  in  the  evening, 
after  travelling  eight  hours  and  a  half  from  the  place  at  which  we 
had  slept ;  and  twelve  hours  and  ten  minutes  from  Misithra,  though 
the  distance  in  good  weather  is  probably  not  more  than  ten  hours. 

As  we  entered  the  town,  a  black  slave,  who  was  picking  the  cleanest 
part  through  the  street,  angry  at  being  forced  to  give  way  to  our 
horses,  exclaimed  to  us  aloud,  "  Out  of  my  way,  pigs  and  dogs,  or  I 
will  cut  off  your  heads  \" 

We  were  hospitably  received  in  the  house  of  a  Greek,  named 
Giannataki ;  and,  as  it  continued  to  snow  the  greater  part  of  the  5th 
and  6th,  were  happy  in  enjoying  the  shelter  which  appeared  com- 
fortable when  in  comparison  with  our  late  khan,  though  it  was  not 
possible,  either  by  day  or  by  night,  to  guard  against  the  piercing 
cold  to  which,  during  the  bad  weather,  the  elevated  plain  of  Tripo- 
litza is  exposed. 

This  place,  which  is  the  present  capital  of  the  Morea,  and  the 
residence  of  the  Pasha,  is  supposed  by  the  modern  Greeks  to  take 
its  name  from  the  three  ancient  towns  in  the  vicinity,  Tegea,  Maina- 
los,  and  Mantineia;  from  the  ruins  of  which  they  imagine  that  it 
was  built.  But  it  most  probably  occupies  the  site  of  Tripolis,  which 
is  also  called  Kalliai  by  Pausanias.'  It  contains  about  fifteen  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  more  than  half  of  whom  are  Greeks. 

It  is  called  Tarapolitza  by  the  Turks,  and  contains  several  mosques. 


1   B.  8.  c.  27.     Livy  mention?  a  Tripolis  in  Lnconia  on  the  confines  of  the  Mcgalopolitau 
territory.     B.  35.  c.  Jl. 

VOL.    II.  3   II 


418  MOUNT  MAINALION. 


It  stands  upon  a  flat  at  the  southern  foot  of  Mount  Mainalion,1 
which,  rising  to  a  considerable  height,  is,  like  the  other  Peloponnesian 
mountains  of  the  first  order,  characterised  by  intersecting  glens  and 
valleys,  watered  with  numerous  rivulets,  and  enlivened  with  sylvan 
scenery.  The  excellence  of  its  pastures  rendered  it  one  of  the  fa- 
vourite residences  of  Pan.  It  is  not,  however,  to  be  compared  with 
Taygeton,  either  for  grandeur  or  for  beauty.  It  extends  far  to  the 
north-east,  bounding  the  western  side  of  the  plains  of  Mantineia  and 
Orchomenos,  and  occupying  a  tract  of  country  anciently  called 
Mainalia,1  to  which  the  Delphic  oracle  gives  the  epithet  of  cold.3 
The  town  of  Mainalos  took  its  name  from  one  of  the  sons  of  Lycaon, 
its  founder.4  It  was  in  ruins  in  the  time  of  Pausanias,  and  its  situa- 
tion has  not  been  clearly  investigated  bjr  modern  travellers.  Oppo- 
site Tripolitza,  at  the  distance  of  about  two  hours  to  the  south-east, 
rises  the  grand  and  wooded  mountain  Artemision.J 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  TEGEA. 


On  the  7th  of  March,  we  visited  the  ruins  of  Tegea,  situated  near 
the  village  of  Piali,6  about  four  miles  from  Tripolitza.  The  first 
ruins  that  we  reached  occupied  a  gentle  eminence,  on  which  is  the 
church  of  Agios  Sosti,  which  has  probably  replaced  some  ancient 
temple.     On  the  outer  wall  is  a  fragmented  inscription,  and  within 


1  Now  called  Roino.  *  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  9-  3  Sva-^sinepos.     Pausan.  loc.  cit. 

4  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  3.  5  Called  Artemius  by  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  4.  c.  5. 

6  Tegea  is  called  Mochlion  by  George  Phranza. 


RUINS  OF  TEGEA.  419 

the  church  a  Doric  capital.  Not  far  from  this  is  an  elevation 
crowned  with  the  ruins  of  a  large  church  called  Palaio  Episkopi, 
apparently  built  with  the  remains  of  a  Doric  temple,  and  situated 
on  the  original  foundation.  Several  triglyphs,  frusta  of  columns, 
and  other  architectural  and  sculptured  fragments,  besides  some 
broken  inscriptions,  are  visible  on  the  walls. 

Some  hundred  yards  from  this  church,  is  the  village  of  Piali,  and  a 
few  remains  of  the  great  temple  of  Minerva  Alea,  built  by  Skopas  of 
Paros ;  the  original  temple,  built  by  Aleus,  son  of  Aphidas,  having 
been  burnt  in  the  ninety-sixth  Olympiad.  It  was  composed  of  the 
three  orders  of  Grecian  architecture. '  Above  the  Doric  was  the  Co- 
rinthian, surmounted  by  the  Ionic.  I  found  fragments  of  the  different 
orders.  There  are  several  large  masses  of  Doric  columns  of  white 
marble,  but  the  greater  part  is  buried.  I  was  not  able  to  take  their 
exact  dimensions ;  but  those  of  the  Doric  order  did  not  appear  to  be 
much  inferior  in  size  to  those  of  the  Parthenon. 

Their  size  may  probably  have  contributed  to  their  preservation, 
as  they  were  too  heavy  to  be  removed.  The  two  other  orders  were 
no  doubt  much  smaller,  and  have  been  carried  to  Tripolitza,  as  very 
few  fragments  of  them  remain. 

We  are  informed  by  Pausanias  that  this  temple  was  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  ornamented  in  the  Peloponnesos.  The  Calydonian  hunt 
was  represented  on  its  front  tympanon,  while  the  posticum  exhibited 
the  battle  of  Telephos  and  Achilles  in  the  plain  of  Kaikos.  Augustus, 
in  order  to  punish  the  Tegeans  for  their  partiality  to  the  interest  of 
Antony,  deprived  the  temple  of  the  old  ivory  statue  of  the  goddess, 
which  he  sent  to  Rome.  He  also  removed  the  tusks  of  the  Caly- 
donian boar,  and  left  the  Tegeans  no  other  relic  but  that  of  his 
skin,  which  was  mouldering  with  age.  I  observed  no  remains  of 
the  magnificent  marble  theatre  built  by  Perseus,  the  last  king  of 
Macedon.2 


1  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  4  and  46.  «  Livy,  b.  41.  c.  20. 

3h  2 


420  RUINS  OF  TEGEA. 

Tegea'  was  founded  by  Tegeates,  a  son  of  Lycaon,  and  formed  out 
of  nine  demoi.2  Its  territory,  which  was  called  Tcgeatis,'  was  of 
small  dimensions,  having  the  Lacedaemonians  to  the  south,  and  the 
Mantineians  to  the  north.  Thus  occupying  a  position  between  two 
powerful  neighbours,  with  whom  it  was  frequently  at  variance, 
Tegeatis  was  compelled  to  become  a  military  state.  The  contingent 
which  this  power  furnished  at  the  battle  of  Plataea4  was  one  thousand 
five  hundred  men.  Tegea  had  been  undoubtedly  surrounded  with 
strong  walls,  but  of  which  I  saw  no  remains.  They  have  probably 
been  taken  to  pieces  for  the  sake  of  the  stone,  and  been  employed 
in  building  the  modern  town  of  Tripolitza.  The  soil  is  apparently 
much  higher  than  its  original  level,  and  perhaps  conceals  those  ves- 
tiges for  which  we  sought  in  vain. 

The  acropolis  was  probably  situated  on  the  hill  of  Agios  Sosti,  or 
on  that  of  Palaio  Episkopi.  The  plain  of  Tegea  is  composed  of  rich 
arable  land,  and  surrounded  by  mountains,  except  in  two  narrow 
slips,  of  which  one  leads  to  Laconia  and  another  to  the  plain  of 
Mantineia. 

The  coins  of  Tegea  generally  represent  the  galeated  head  of 
Minerva  Alea,  and  sometimes  a  bearded  head  with  a  diadem.  The 
figure  of  the  goddess  is  also  sometimes  seen  at  full  length  with  that 
of  a  warrior.3  A  scarce  coin  of  that  city,  exhibits  Telephos  re- 
ceiving nourishment  from  a  deer.6  Diana  and  Mars,  and  the  owl, 
are  also  pourtrayed  on  the  Tegean  coins.  The  inscriptions  are  ge- 
nerally AAE02  and  TErEATAN. 


1  Pausan.b.  8.  c.  3.     2  Strabo,  b.  8.  p.  337.     s  Thucyd.  b.  5.  c.  65.     *  Herodot.  b.  9.  c.  28. 
5  See  Haym.  Thesaur.  Britan.  torn.  2.  p.  3.     Eckhel  Numi  vet.  Anecd.  p.  142.     Millin- 
grn  Recueil  de  quelques  medailles  Grecques,  Ined.  p.  53.  p.  3.  fig.  9.  2d  brass. 

6  See  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  54.  and  others. 


PLAIN  OF  MANTINEIA.  421 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  MANTINEIA. 

We  returned  to  Tripolitza  in  the  evening,  and  the  next  morning 
March  the  8th,  continued  our  journey  to  Mantineia.  In  fifty-three 
minutes  we  came  to  a  ruined  church,  with  some  ancient  tiles  scat- 
tered about,  and  a  few  paces  further  observed  the  traces  of  a  wall 
composed  of  rough  blocks  apparently  of  high  antiquity.  This  was 
probably  the  boundary  line  between  Tegeatis  and  Mantinikes,1 
which,  according  to  Pausanias,2  was  marked  by  a  circular  altar. 
This  part  of  the  plain  is  rocky,  and  is  narrowed  by  the  projection 
of  two  opposing  hills.  A  few  hundred  paces  further  we  reached 
some  other  rough  traces  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  craggy  acclivity 
on  the  left  of  the  road.  They  may  indicate  the  temple  of  Neptune, 
and  the  hill  may  be  Mount  Alesion  mentioned  by  Pausanias.' 

The  plain  of  Mantineia  opens  beyond  this  pass ;  not  far  from 
which  Pausanias  notices  a  place4  called  Pelagos,  where  Epaminondas 
was  killed ;  then  a  stadium  and  a  dromos  close  to  the  walls  of  Man- 
tineia. The  plain  was  covered  with  detached  intervals  of  water, 
owing  to  the  late  bad  weather  and  the  melting  of  the  snow,  by 
which  it  is  probable  that  several  traces  were  concealed. 

We  passed  through  some  vineyards  situated  in  low  and  marshy 
ground.  The  wine  is  consequently  of  the  poorest  quality.  The 
neighbouring  hills  would,  no  doubt,  be  more  auspicious  to  the 
culture  of  the  vine,  but  the  excellence  of  the  quality  is  little  heeded 
by  the  Greeks,  with  whom  quantity  seems  to  be  the  principal  object. 
Some  of  the  plain  is  marshy  and  uncultivated,  for  which  reason  it 
was  anciently  named  Argos.5     Its  present  name  is  Milias. 


Thuc>d.  b.  5.  c.  65.     Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  7.  *  B.  8.  c.  1  i. 

3  B.  8.  c.  10.  *  yjupM'  5  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  7. 


422  RUINS  OF  MANTINEIA. 

AVe  passed  by  some  blocks  of  stone,  and  crossed  a  bridge  over  a 
sluggish  fen  stream.  This  humble  rivulet  was  probably  a  frequent 
subject  of  dispute  between  the  two  neighbouring  territories,  and  by 
turning  which,  Agis,  the  Spartan  king,  son  of  Archidamos,  inun- 
dated the  Mantineian  plain.1  This  seems  to  have  been  the  spot 
where  Agis  obtained  a  victory  over  the  Argians,  Arcadians,  and 
Athenians,  about  fifty  years  before  Epaminondas  vanquished  the 
Lacedaemonians,  and  probably  near  the  same  place. 

We  arrived  at  Mantineia  in  two  hours  and  five  minutes  from  Tri- 
politza,  and  passed   the  night  at  a  miserable  place,  consisting  of 
three  cottages,  called  Palaiopoli,  situated  within  the  ancient  walls 
of  the  city  towards  the  east.     Mantineia   took  its  name  from  its 
founder,  one  of  the  sons  of  Lycaon.2     Its  walls  were  composed  of 
unbaked  bricks,  which  resisted,  even  better  than  stone,  the  impulse 
of  warlike  engines,  but  were  not  proof  against  the  effects  of  water: 
for  Agesipolis,5  king  of  Sparta,  forming  a  ditch  round  the  town,  and 
causing  the  river  Ophis  to  flow  into  it,  dissolved  the  fabric  of  the 
walls,  as  Cimon,  son  of  Miltiades,  had  done  before  with  the  earthen 
walls   of  Eion,  on   the   river   Strymon.     Agesipolis    nearly  ruined 
Mantineia,  and  dispersed  the  greater  part  of  its  inhabitants.     After 
the  battle  of  Leuktra,4  the  Thebans  collected  the  dispersed  Man- 
tineians,  and  re-established  them  in  their  ancient  city.     The  walls 
which  are  seen  at  present  were  probably  then  built.5     They  are  of 
the  same  style  as  those  of  Messene,  and  inclose  a  circle  in  which  the 
city  stood.     The  walls  are  fortified  with  towers,  most  of  which  are 
square.     Some  near  the  gates  are  of  a  circular  form.     The  whole 
exhibits,  as  well  as  the  Avails  of  Messene,  an  interesting  and  very 
perfect  example  of  Grecian  fortification.     There  were  eight  gates, 
not  one  of  which  retains  its  lintel.     The  walls  are  surrounded  by  a 


1  Thucyd.  b.  5.  c.  65.  '  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  3. 

3  Xenophon.  Hist.  b.  5.  c.  2.     Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  8. 
*  Supposed  to  have  taken  place  the  Sth  of  July,  371  years  B.  C. 
5  See  Xenophon.  Hist.  b.  6.c.  5. 


RUINS  OF  MANTINEIA.  423 

foss  which  is  still  supplied  by  the  stream  of  the  Ophis,  which, 
together  with  the  waters  that  fall  from  Artemision,  would  inundate 
the  plain,  were  they  not  absorbed  by  a  chasm  through  which  they 
find  a  subterraneous  vent.1 

Mantineia  was  richly  decorated  with  public  edifices.  It  had 
eight  temples,2  besides  a  theatre,  a  stadium,  and  hippodrome,  and 
several  other  monuments  which  are  enumerated  by  Pausanias.3 
Some  imperfect  remains  of  the  theatre  are  still  visible,  the  walls  of 
which  are  similar  to  those  round  the  town.  None  of  the  sites  of  the 
temples  or  of  the  other  structures  can  be  identified,  and  every  thing, 
except  the  walls  which  inclosed  the  city,  is  in  a  state  of  total  dila- 
pidation. 

Antigonos,  son  of  Demetrios,  who  reigned  in  Macedon  during  the 
minority  of  his  nephew,  Philip  III.,  greatly  favoured  the  Manti- 
neians,  and  called  their  city  after  his  own  name,  Antigonea.  About 
350  years  afterwards,  Hadrian  restored  it  to  its  ancient  name.4  Nep- 
tune was  particularly  revered  at  this  city,  and  was  supposed  to 
have  fought  against  the  Lacedaemonians  commanded  by  Agis,  son  of 
Eudamidas,  who  was  killed  in  the  battle.  The  Mantineians  raised 
a  temple  to  their  tutelary  deity.  I  have  seen  a  small  brass  coin 
with  a  galeated  head  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  Neptune  sitting 
on  a  rock,  holding  in  one  hand  a  dolphin,  and  in  the  other  a  trident. 
The  inscription  MAN  shows  it  to  be  of  Mantineia.5 

Antinoos  also  became  a  favourite  divinity  with  the  Mantineians 
in  the  time  of  Hadrian,  and  a  large  copper  coin  bearing  the  head  of 
the  Bithynian  was  found 6  amongst  the  ruins  of  the  town  after  I 
quitted  Greece.  Minerva  and  Jupiter  are  also  represented  on  the 
coins  of  Mantineia,  and  the  imperial  coins  of  the  same  city  are 
not  scarce. 


1  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  7.  *  Five  Nao<  and  four  Upx.  '  B.  8.  c.  8.  etseq. 

4  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  8. 
5  This  coin  is  in  the  possession  of  J.  Millingen,  Esq.  and  has  been  inaccurately  published 
by  Pellerin. 

6  By  Doctor  Macmichael. 


424  RUINS  AND  PLAIN  OF  MANTINEIA. 

I  ascended  a  rocky  hill  a  short  way  to  the  east  of  Mantineia,  and 
took  an  extensive  view  of  the  ruins,  of  the  plain  and  its  boundary 
mountains,  particularly  Mainalion,  which  occupies  the  whole  of  its 
western  side.  It  is  inclosed  towards  the  south-east  by  the  rugged 
heights  of  Parthenion  and  Artemision. 


TO  KALPAKI,  ORCHOMENOS. 

On  quitting  Mantineia  on  the  9th  for  the  ruins  of  Orchomenos,  we 
traversed  the  middle  of  the  ancient  city,  and  were  thirteen  minutes 
in  going  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  wall.  We  here  crossed  the 
ditch  formed  by  the  river  Ophis,  and,  proceeding  in  a  northern  direc- 
tion through  the  middle  of  the  plain,  in  an  hour  and  four  minutes 
from  the  walls  of  Mantineia,  came  to  the  foundations  of  a  building 
composed  of  large  stones.  Pausanias  '  mentions  two  roads  from  Man- 
tineia to  Orchomenos,  on  one  of  which  were  the  stadium  of  Ladas,  a 
temple  of  Diana,2  and  a  lofty  tumulus  of  earth,5  which  some  believed 
to  be  the  tomb  of  Penelope.  In  this  vicinity  a  mountain  was 
covered  with  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Mantineia,  near  which  rose  the 
fountain  Alalkomeniai.  Thirty  stadia  from  the  town  were  the  ruins 
of  the  village  Maira. 

On  the  other  road  the  topographer  mentions  the  monument  or 
tomb*  of  Anchises,  and  a  temple5  of  Venus  at  the  mountain  called 
Anchisia,  which  separated  the  Orchomenian  and  Mantineian  terri- 
tories. 


1  B.  8.  c.  12.  5  npiv.  3  yy,i  %"*',"«. 

4  He  here  uses  the  worcl«  ,^nj,az  and  lx$o;  in  the  same  sense.  *  "I;'"- 


PLAIN  OF  ORCHOMENOS.  425 

The  plain  terminates  a  short  distance  from  the  above-mentioned 
foundations.  We  crossed  a  ridge  of  rocky  hills,  bounding  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  Mantineian  territory,  and  in  half  an  hqur  descended 
to  the  plain  of  Orchomenos,  which  in  this  part  is  called  Libadiu,  from 
a  large  village  of  the  same  name,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains to  the  left. 

We  quitted  the  great  road  to  Kalabryta  and  Patra,  proceeded 
towards  the  right,  and  in  a  recess  of  the  mountains  observed  a  vil- 
lage called  Bodia.  We  reached  the  foot  of  the  hills  which  rise  from 
the  southern  side  of  the  plain  of  Orchomenos,  and  came  to  the  an- 
cient road  paved  Avith  large  stones,  of  which,  though  broken  and 
full  of  holes,  we  were  happy  to  make  use,  instead  of  traversing  the 
marshy  ground  through  which  the  summer  road  passes.  In  ap- 
proaching Orchomenos,  we  observed  some  large  tumuli,  composed 
of  rough  stones.  Pausanias1  imagines  that  they  were  sepulchres; 
but  says  that  the  Orchomenians  themselves  had  no  idea  to  whom 
they  were  raised.  We  crossed  an  artificial  foss,  which  is  appa- 
rently ancient,  and  made  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  to  the  lake 
the  superabundance  of  water  which  in  winter  descends  from  the 
surrounding  mountains,  and,  without  this  canal,  might  inundate  the 
whole  plain. 

We  soon  after  reached  a  ruined  church,  evidently  occupying  the 
site  of  an  ancient  building  of  the  Doric  order,  but  of  small  dimen- 
sions, the  frusta  of  the  columns  measuring  less  than  two  feet  in  dia- 
meter. After  a  slight  ascent,  we  passed  by  a  fountain  rushing  in  a 
copious  current  from  its  source.  Near  it  is  a  white  marble  lion,  in 
an  indifferent  style,  and  not  so  large  as  life. 

We  arrived  at  Kalpaki  in  two  hours  and  sixteen  minutes  from 
Mantineia.  This  village  occupies  the  site  of  Orchomenos2  which 
owed  its  name  and  foundation  to  a  son  of  Lycaon :  its  riches  in 


1  B.  8.  c.  13.  *  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  3. 

VOL.  II.  3  I 


426  RUINS  OF  ORCHOMENOS. 

early  times  seem  to  have  consisted  in  pastures  and  flocks.'  Its 
military  force  could  not  have  been  considerable  at  the  time  of  the 
Persian  invasion,  as  it  sent  only  120  men  to  Thermopylae,2  and  600 
to  Plataea.' 

The  most  ancient  town,  which  was  afterwards  the  acropolis,  was 
situated  on  a  high,  steep,  and  insulated  hill;  for  which  reason  it  is 
denominated  an  island  by  Dionysios  of  Halicarnassos : 4  indeed  it 
is  sometimes  almost  surrounded  with  water  in  the  winter,  when  the 
snow  melts  and  the  lake  overflows.  Pausanias  says,  that  in  his  time 
the  walls  of  the  old  town  of  Orchomenos,  and  the  agora,  were  seen 
upon  the  hill,  but  that  the  town  itself  was  lower  down. 

The  acropolis  on  which  the  original  town  was  situated  is  steep  on 
all  sides,  and  flat  at  the  summit,  resembling  Mount  Ithome  in  form, 
but  far  inferior  in  height.  The  walls  were  fortified  with  square  towers, 
and  may  be  traced  nearly  round  the  whole  of  the  extreme  edge :  in 
some  places  they  are  well  preserved,  and  the  most  ancient  parts  are 
in  the  rough  Tirynthian  style. 

I  made  a  panoramic  view  from  the  acropolis,  which  gives  a  com- 
prehensive idea  of  the  Orchomenian  plain,  with  its  lake,  and  its 
grand  encircling  rampart  of  mountains.  These  are  of  a  bold  and. 
towering  character,  and  are  seen  receding  beyond  each  other  to  the 
extremity  of  the  horizon. 

The  village  of  Kalpaki  is  situated  upon  the  ruins  of  the  lower 
town,  and  the  cottage  which  we  occupied  stood  upon  the  remains  of  a 
Doric  temple  of  white  marble,  some  large  masses  of  which  are  scat- 
tered about  in  the  vicinity.  I  employed  the  countrymen  to  exca- 
vate, and  they  dug  out  some  Doric  capitals  in  perfect  preservation, 
and  of  an  elegant  form.  The  columns  had  only  eighteen  flutings.  I 
earnestly  recommend  it  to  future  travellers  to  persevere  in  an  exca- 
vation, by  which  their  toil  will  probably  be  amply  recompensed. 
I  had  not  sufficient  time  for  such  an  undertaking. 


1  Pausan.  loc.  cit. ;  he  cites  Homer,  Iliad,  2.  v.  605. 
z  Herodot.  b.  7.  c.  202.  *  Id.  b.  9.  c.  28.  *  Antiq.  Rom.  b.  1.  c.  30. 


RUINS  OF  ORCHOMENOS.  427 

Pausanias  only  notices  the  temples *  of  Neptune  and  of  Venus  at 
this  place,  each  of  which  contained  a  marble  statue  of  the  divinity. 
Below*  the  city  there  was  also  a  %oaw,  or  wooden  statue,  of  Diana. 

Orchomenos  seems  to  have  been  a  place  of  little  consequence  in 
the  time  of  Pausanias;  but  it  is  singular  that  there  are  still  the 
remains  of  several  buildings,  which  appear  to  have  been  temples, 
though  he  only  mentions  two.  Besides  the  two  I  have  already  no- 
ticed, the  church  of  Panagia,  which  is  situated  at  the  northern  foot  of 
the  acropolis,  is  entirely  composed  of  the  remains  of  a  Doric  temple, 
amongst  which  are  triglyphs,  plain  metopse,  and  fluted  frusta  of 
white  marble,  but  of  small  proportions.  Here  are  also  some  frag- 
mented antefixa  of  terra  cotta,  depicted  with  the  usual  foliage,  of  a 
dark  red  hue.  Near  the  church  is  a  small  spring.  Further  down  in 
the  plain,  towards  the  lake,  is  another  ruined  church,  constructed 
with  ancient  blocks  of  stone  and  marble,  and  near  it  is  an  Ionic  ca- 
pital. A  few  paces  from  this  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  tower. 
Still  further,  towards  the  village  called  Rush,  is  another  church,  in 
the  walls  of  which  are  some  marble  triglyphs. 

A  few  hundred  paces  to  the  west  of  Kalpaki  there  is  a  heap 
of  square  blocks  of  stone  of  large  size;  and  further  in  the  plain 
are  other  similar  remains :  indeed  every  thing  seems  to  evince  that 
Orchomenos  was  a  strong  and  extensive  city,  and  sumptuously  de- 
corated with  ornamental  edifices,  which  Pausanias  has  not  described 
with  his  usual  diligence. 

We  remained  at  Kalpaki  on  the  10th  and  11th,  on  account  of  the 
snow,  which  fell  almost  incessantly,  covering  the  greater  part  of  the 
Peloponnesos,  and  presenting  a  dreary  and  discouraging  prospect 
for  my  intended  journey  through  the  most  mountainous  parts  of 
Arcadia.  A  warm  scirocco  wind,  however,  which  rose  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  11th,  cleared,  in  a  few  hours,  the  plain  and  the  lower  part 
of  the  mountains,  but  made  little  impression  on  the  loftier  summits, 
where  the  air  was  keener,  and  the  snow  of  a  firmer  consistency. 

i * __ m_ 

1  lepz.  *  ITfos  Si  ly  iroXtt. 

3i  2 


428  HEAVY  FALL  OF  SNOW. 

The  road  from  Orchomenos  to  the  lake  of  Stymphalos,  which  I 
designed  to  visit,  was  over  a  mountainous  track,  and,  according  to 
all  accounts,  difficult  and  dangerous  to  pass  after  the  recent  accu- 
mulated fall  of  snow ;  but  I  was  so  miserably  lodged  in  the  cottage 
at  Kalpaki,  where  the  snow  and  rain  drifted  through  the  fissures  of 
the  roof,  that  I  was  resolved  to  quit  it  as  soon  as  I  had  seen  every 
thing  which  the  place  contained. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

To  Zaraka,  on  the  lake  of  Styrnphalos — Mount  Oligyrtos,  and  difficulty  of  the  passage — Ruins  of 
an  ancient  city,  probably  Alea — Lake,  town,  and  city  of  Styrnphalos — Coins  of  that  town — 
Katabatliron — To  Phonia,  the  ancient  Pheneos — Plain  of  Pheneos — River  Aroanios — Phonia 
— Ruins  upon  a  high  mountain — Ruins  of  Pheneos — Coins  of  that  town — Lake  of  Pheneos 
— Katabathron — Village  Likourio — Issue  of  the  lake  of  Pheneos,  and  source  of  the  Ladon— 
Kalybia  of  Mazi — Ruins  of  Kleitor — Plain  and  mountains — To  the  monastery  of  Megaspelia 
—Town  of  Kalabryta — River  Bouraikos — Monastery  of  Megaspelia — Rs  extraordinary  and 
magnificent  situation — To  Gusumistris — Fount  Alusson — Ruins  of  an  ancient  city — To  Patra 
— Wooded  pass  of  Makellaria,  and  danger  of  being  robbed — Arrival  at  Patra — To  Messa- 
loggion — Sail  for  Ithaca — Driven  back  by  unfavourable  winds — Island  of  Basiladi — Pro- 
montory of  Konopeli,  ruins  of  a  town,  and  thermal  spring  in  Eleia — Arrival  at  Ithaca — 
Accompanied  by  thieves  to  Santa  Maura — Island  of  Saint  Nicolo — Prebeza — Corfu — Arrival 
at  Messina — Departure  for  Civita  Vecchia — Becalmed  off  the  Lipari  Islands — Volcano  of 
Stromboli — Turtles,  nautili,  and  pilot-fish — View  of  the  three  volcanoes,  iEtna,  Strom- 
boli,  and  Vesuvius,  from  the  same  spot — View  of  the  coast  and  bay  of  Naples — The  Roman 
coast — Mount  Circsei — Neighbouring  islands — Arrival  at  Civita  Vecchia— Quarantine — 
Imprisonment — Insulting  conduct  of  the  general — Kind  and  friendly  conduct  of  another 
Frenchman — Arrival  at  Rome. 

TO  ZARAKA,  STYMPHALOS. 

X  PROCEEDED  on  the  12th,  and  was  sixteen  minutes  in  descend- 
ing from  Kalpaki  to  the  plain,  where  the  traces  of  Orchomenos  end. 
We  crossed  a  copious  stream,  called  Sosteno,  which  rises  near  the 
deserted  village  of  Nudimo,  about  three  hours  from  Kalpaki ;  and 
probably  the  same  which  is  noticed  by  Pausanias  '  at  the  foot  of 
Mount  Trachu.  Close  on  the  right  rose  a  steep  hill,  with  a  village, 
called  Mures,  at  its  foot.  The  ancient  paved  way  is  seen  winding 
along  the  base  of  the  mountain. 


1  B.  8.  c.  13. 


430  DIFFICULT  PASSAGE  OF  MOUNT  OLIGYRTOS. 

In  thirty-seven  minutes  from  Kalpaki  we  came  to  a  fine  kephalo- 
brusi,  or  source,  rushing  in  seven  clear  streams  out  of  the  rocks  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain  called  Kokino-Bouno,1  which  rises  close  to 
the  right.  They  soon  form  a  single  stream,  which  is  the  principal 
supply  of  the  lake  of  Orchomenos,  which  it  enters,  after  a  course 
of  a  few  hundred  yards.  This  is  the  spring  that  Pausanias  calls 
Teneiai. 

Half  an  hour  from  this  source  we  saw  a  tumulus  to  the  left,  crossed 
a  rivulet  running  towards  the  lake  of  Orchomenos,  and  came  to  some 
traces  of  the  ancient  paved  way.  In  an  hour  and  a  quarter  from  Kal- 
paki we  reached  the  extremity  of  the  plain,  and  observed  the  mo- 
nastery of  Kandelas,  conspicuously  perched  upon  a  high  rock.  A 
few  minutes  more  brought  us  to  the  metochi  of  the  monastery ;  a 
short  way  beyond  which  is  the  scattered  and  deserted  town  of  Kan- 
delas. All  the  principal  inhabitants,  unable  to  support  the  vexa- 
tious extortions  of  the  pasha  of  the  Morea,  emigrated  a  few  years 
ago  to  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor. 

We  passed  by  some  mills  turned  by  a  rivulet  that  is  rolled  from 
the  neighbouring  mountains,  and  crosses  the  plain  towards  the  lake 
of  Orchomenos.  We  here  began  to  mount  the  precipitous  and 
difficult  sides  of  the  mountain,  which  is  probably  the  ancient  Oli- 
gyrtos.  * 

The  road  formed  a  zigzag  on  the  edge  of  precipices,  and  is  not 
difficult  to  pass  in  summer ;  but  at  this  season  it  is  completely  in- 
crusted  with  snow  of  a  great  depth.  The  road  is  seldom  traversed 
at  this  period;  and,  accordingly,  no  beaten  track  was  visible;  and 
at  almost  every  step  we  were  in  danger  of  falling  down  the  precipices; 
nor  do  I  recollect  ever  to  have  been  in  a  more  perilous  situation. 

My  Tatar,  Salique,  who  had,  according  to  his  own  confession,  an 


1  The  red  mountain. 
*  Polyb.  b.  4.  p.  280.     In  another  part  of  his  history  he  calls  it  Ligyrtos;  and  says,  that 
the  Macedonian  army,  which  marched  over  it  after  a  battle  they  had  gained  against  the 
Eleians  in  the  vicinity,  suffered  greatly  from  the  snow,  b.  4.  p.  333. 


DIFFICULT  PASSAGE  OF  MOUNT  OLIGYRTOS.  431 

insuperable  antipathy  to  thieves  and  gunpowder,  was,  however,  of 
essential  service  to  us  by  his  active  intrepidity  in  this  particular 
instance,  in  which  he  had  to  wage  war  only  with  the  elements. 

The  guides  which  we  had  taken  at  Kalpaki,  when  they  saw  the 
depth  of  the  snow  upon  the  mountain,  obstinately  refused  to  ac- 
company us  if  we  persisted  in  our  determination  to  proceed.  Ibra- 
him, who  was  as  bold  as  a  lion  in  the  moment  of  conflict,  and  whose 
heart  vibrated  with  enthusiastic  ardour  at  the  report  of  a  gun  or 
pistol,  was  not  proof  against  the  chilling  horror  of  that  boundless 
tract  of  untrodden  snow  which  was  expanded  before  his  view.  We 
were,  therefore,  on  the  point  of  abandoning  the  passage  for  the  pre- 
sent; and  were  actually  thinking  of  returning,  when  Salique  jumped 
from  his  horse,  and  began  to  persuade  the  Greeks  to  conduct  us 
through,  by  a  very  cogent  argument,  the.  argument um  baculinum, 
which  I  found  it  impossible  to  check.  In  fact  he  applied  his  whip 
to  their  shoulders  with  great  effect;  and  then,  addressing  himself  to 
me,  said,  "  if  we  now  return  to  Kalpaki,  we  shall  be  flogged  in  our 
turn ;  and,  if  the  whole  mountain  should  change  into  snow,  we  must 
get  through  it."  He  gave  a  gentle  taunt  to  Ibrahim,  whom  he  re- 
minded of  what  he  had  said  at  Megalopolis ;  that  the  prudent  Mu- 
sulman  should  never  expose  himself  to  unnecessary  danger;  but, 
when  he  is  once  in  a  perilous  situation,  should  exert  every  nerve  to 
extricate  himself  with  credit.  He  then  descanted  on  the  salutary 
effects  of  wine;  and,  when  our  guides  were  again  attempting  to 
return,  he  beat  them  about  the  head  with  his  pistols,  and  threatened 
to  shoot  them  if  they  put  the  smallest  impediment  in  the  way  of  our 
progress.  It  was  in  vain  that  I  attempted  to  moderate  his  violence, 
and  he  succeeded,  at  last,  in  getting  us  to  the  summit  of  the  pass, 
which  it  took  us  only  an  hour  and  ten  minutes  to  reach  from  the 
beginning  of  the  ascent. 

Our  descent  was  still  attended  with  considerable  difficulty;  but 
we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  an  hour  and  twenty 
minutes,  and  passed  by  a  village  called  Skotini,  situated  in  a  long- 
plain.     Some  rough  traces  are  observable  at  a  short  distance  from 


432  LAKE  OF  STYMPHALIS. 

this  place,  at  the  confluence  of  two  streams.  The  plain  is  perfectly 
flat,  and  cultivated  with  corn.  After  continuing  our  route  for  an 
hour  and  a  quarter  from  Skotini,  we  came  to  several  vestiges  of 
walls,  composed  of  large  rough  stones,  situated  at  the  foot  of  some 
rocky  hills  which  rise  to  the  left,  and  upon  which  there  appears  to 
have  been  an  acropolis.  This  place  exhibits  indications  of  great 
antiquity,  and  may  be  the  site  of  the  town  of  Alea  ;  which,  accord- 
ing to  Pausanias,'  was  founded  by  Aleos,  son  of  Aphidas. 

We  here  began  to  ascend  some  rocky  elevations ;  and  in  twenty- 
five  minutes  came  in  view  of  the  Lake  Stymphalis;1  which,  though 
not  of  considerable  dimensions,  is  very  grand  and  picturesque,  and 
surrounded  by  mountains  of  a  bold  outline,  and  magnificent  appear- 
ance. We  descended  to  the  plain ;  and  proceeded  by  an  ancient 
paved  way,  along  the  south-east  extremity  of  the  lake,  which  was  to 
our  left,  and  was  well  stocked  with  wild  ducks,  though  the  Stym- 
phalides  are  no  longer  to  be  found.  We  crossed  two  branches  of  a 
stream  which  rises  in  the  mountains  at  the  village  of  Dusio,  two 
hours  north  of  Stymphalos,  and  here  enters  the  lake. 

We  arrived  at  the  village  of  Zaraka,  which  is  seven  hours  from 
Kalpaki,  and  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  about  a  mile  from  the 
lake.  This  miserable  place  is  governed  by  a  black  agha,  who  was 
civil.  But  all  his  power  was  exerted  in  vain  to  procure  us  wine  and 
provisions,  as  the  villagers  were  furnished  with  scarcely  any  thing 
but  ripe  olives,  pungent  cheese,  and  gritty  bread. 

Stymphalos  was  said  to  have  been  founded  by  a  son  of  Elatos, 
who  was  son  of  Arkas:5  it  is  mentioned  by  Homer*  among  those 
cities  which  supplied  forces  for  the  Trojan  Avar.  It  was  a  very  con- 
siderable place,  and  Pindar5  calls  it  the  mother,  or  the  metropolis 
of  Arcadia. 


1  B.  8.  c.  23. 

*  Herodotus  calls  the  lake  27u/xpijA»>j.     Diodorus  Siculus  names  it  XhpQctMs.     The  terri- 
tory was  denominated  27u/*paAia,  and  the  town  27u/x<paXoj. — See  Polyb.,  Strabo,  Pausan. 
'  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  4.  *  Iliad,  2.  v.  60S.  *  Olymp.  6.  v.  169. 


RUINS  OF  STYMPHALOS— KATABATHRON.  433 

According  to  Pausanias,1  it  was  a  tradition  that  Juno  was  edu- 
cated at  Sty mphalos  by  Temenos,  son  of  Pelasgos  ;  and  that  he  there 
erected  three  temples1  to  that  goddess.  In  the  time  of  the  topo- 
grapher, the  only  edifice  at  Sty  mphalos  worthy  of  notice  appears 
to  have  been  an  ancient  temple5  of  Diana.  Strabo4  asserts  that  the 
town  was  fifty  stadia  from  the  lake;  this  must  be  an  error  of  his 
transcribers ;  for  which  five  stadia  ought  to  be  substituted,  as  that 
is  the  actual  distance  of  the  ruins  of  Stymphalos  from  the  lake. 
The  remains  of  this  ancient  city  are  about  an  hour  to  the  west-south- 
west of  Zaraka,  and  stand  upon  a  rocky  eminence  rising  from  the 
north-east  side  of  the  lake.  The  first  ruin  we  reached  appeared  to 
he  the  remains  of  a  temple,  consisting  of  a  quantity  of  blocks  which 
constituted  the  cella.  We  also  observed  some  fluted  frusta  of  the 
Doric  order,  three  feet  in  diameter.  Several  other  traces  are  dis- 
persed in  all  directions.  At  the  distance  of  ten  minutes  from  this 
place,  the  fountain  of  Stymphalos,  which  at  present  is  known  by 
the  usual  denomination  of  Kephalo-Brusi,  gushes  with  turbulent 
vehemence  from  the  rock,  and  forms  a  copious  stream.  This  is  the 
river  Stymphalos,  which,  after  a  short  and  rippling  course,  enters 
the  lake,  which  it  traverses,  and  falls  into  the  chasm,  or  Icataba- 
thron ;  from  whence,  finding  its  way  in  a  subterraneous  channel,  it 
reappears  near  Argos,  forming  the  source  of  the  river  Erasinos, 
which  enters  the  Argolic  gulf  near  the  Lernaean  marsh.  This  phy- 
sical curiosity  is  noticed  by  many  ancient  authors,  particularly  by 
Herodotus,5  Diodorus  Siculus,6  Strabo,7  and  Pausanias;8  the  length 
of  its  subterraneous  course  was  supposed  to  be  two  hundred  stadia. 

The  Athenian  Iphikrates  endeavoured  to  obstruct  the  mouth  by 
which  the  river  entered,  in  order  to  inundate  the  surrounding  terri- 
tory of  Stymphalia;9  but  his  attempts  were  frustrated  by  divine 
interposition.10 


1  B.  8.  c.  22.                              *  upd. 

5  tepov.                            *  B.  8.  p.  389,  . 

>B.  6.  c.  76.             6B.  15.  c.  49. 

7  B.  6.  p.  275.              *  B.  8.  c.  22. 

sPolyb.  b.  4.  p.  331. 

10  Strabo,  loc.  cit. 

VOL.  II. 

3k 

434  RUINS  AND  LAKE  OF  STYMPHALOS. 

We  proceeded  for  a  short  space  along  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
by  the  ancient  way,  which  is  paved  with  large  square  blocks  of 
stone,  unlike  the  roads  of  the  Romans,  which  are  composed  of  irre- 
gular polygons.  We  soon  came  to  the  remains  of  a  temple,  con- 
sisting of  a  considerable  quantity  of  Doric  frusta,  and  some  pilasters, 
or  antae,  both  fluted,  and  some  large  blocks  of  marble  and  stone. 
The  columns  are  of  moderate  proportions ;  the  larger  measure  three 
feet  in  diameter,  and  the  smaller  only  eighteen  inches.  The  place 
is  called  Kionea,  or  "  the  columns."  The  dilapidated  Catholicon 
or  episcopal  church,  which  has  evidently  been  a  handsome  edifice, 
is  close  to  this  temple,  and  is  composed  of  ancient  remains. 
A  few  hundred  yards  from  the  Catholicon,  we  came  to  the  an- 
cient walls  of  Stymphalos,  which  were  fortified  with  square  towers, 
and  constructed  in  the  second  style  of  masonry,  with  large  polygon 
stones.  Nearer  the  lake  the  brow  of  an  impending  eminence 
is  characterized  by  the  ruins  of  another  temple,  the  lower  part 
of  the  cella  of  which  is  still  visible.  This  whole  side  of  the  lake 
appears  to  have  been  in  a  manner  covered  with  buildings  belong- 
ing to  the  town,  which  was  of  a  long  and  narrow  form,  adapted 
to  the  nature  of  the  spot  on  which  it  stood.  The  mountain 
which  rises  above  the  ruins  is  part  of  the  great  Mount  Cyllene,  the 
loftiest  in  Arcadia.1  Its  first  name  was  Elatos,  which  it  took  from 
the  son  of  Arkas.  It  was  then  denominated  Cyllene,  from  his  son 
Cyllen;2  and  it  appears  also  to  have  had  the  name  of  Stymphalos. 
There  was  also  a  mountain  called  Apeauros  or  Apelauros,3  ten  stadia 
from  the  town,  and  probably  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  at 
the  foot  of  which  is  the  emissary. 

Pausanias  asserts  that  the  lake,  which  is  always  small,  is  quite 
dry  in  summer,  but  we  were  assured  that  this  never  occurs,  though 
it  contains  comparatively  only  a  scanty  portion  of  water  during  that 
season  of  the  year. 


'  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  17.  *  Ibid.  3  Polyb.  b.  4.  p.  332.— Livy,  b.  33.  c.  14>. 


COINS  OF  STYMPHALOS.  435 

The  silver  coins  of  Stymphalos  are  singularly  beautiful,  and 
more  especially  the  tetradrachm,  which  exhibits  on  one  side  a 
laureated  female  head,  and  on  the  reverse  Hercules,  known  by  the 
lion's  skin  and  the  club,  with  which  he  seems  in  the  act  of  con- 
tending with  the  Stymphalides,  which  are,  however,  not  seen ; 
inscription  2TTMOAAION  and  20.  The  smaller  silver  coin  re- 
presents the  head  of  Hercules,  and  on  the  reverse,  the  head  of 
one  of  the  Stymphalides;  inscription  2TYMOAAION.  I  purchased 
one  of  the  latter,  which  is  rather  scarce.  The  tetradrachms  are 
extremely  rare. ' 


TO  PHONIA,  PHENEOS. 


We  quitted  Zaraka  on  the  13th,  and  proceeded  along  the  north- 
east side  of  the  lake  through  the  ruins  of  Stymphalos,  from  which 
we  continued  on  the  side  of  a  steep  precipice  rising  from  the  water, 
and  observed  the  ancient  road  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  marked  with 
the  tracks  of  wheels.  In  less  than  an  hour  we  reached  the  north- 
west extremity  of  the  lake,  which,  at  that  end,  is  enclosed  by  an 
ancient  wall  to  protect  the  adjacent  plain  from  its  inundations.  We 
crossed  a  river  which  turns  some  mills  and  enters  the  lake,  and  soon 
after  began  to  ascend  a  mountainous  ridge,  the  ancient  Geron- 
teion,*  which  separates  the  plains  of  Stymphalos  and  Pheneos.  The 
village  of  Kastanea  was  situated  on  our  right.  After  an  ascent  of 
forty  minutes  we  reached  the  top  of  the  pass,  and  distinguished  the 


Published  by  Pellcrin.  *  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  16.  22. 

3k  2 


436  PLAIN  AND  LAKE  OF  PHENEOS. 

Corinthian  gulf  towards  the  east;  the  plain  of  Pheneos  was  also 
visible  below  us.  Our  road  ran  along  the  rocky  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains, which  rise  majestically  on  the  north-east  side  of  the  plain, 
and  are  enlivened  with  villages  and  shaded  with  trees.  The  view 
over  the  plain  of  Pheneos  is  singularly  grand ;  it  presents  a  surface 
of  fine  verdure  and  of  great  extent;  its  little  lake  is  scarcely  visible 
at  its  northern  extremity.  The  contiguous  mountains  shoot  into 
the  air  in  impressive  forms,  while  they  are  diversified  by  bold  pro- 
jections and  green  retreats. 

Pausanias1  relates  that  the  ancient  town  of  Pheneos  was  once 
overwhelmed  during  an  inundation  of  the  plain,  and  that  in  his 
time  the  marks  of  this  inundation  Avere  still  visible  on  the  mountains. 
It  is  a  circumstance  of  singular  interest  that  the  marks  of  the  inun- 
dation, which  are  mentioned  by  the  topographer,  remain  to  the 
present  day,  and  thus  afford  us  an  opportunity  of  bearing  testimony 
to  his  veracity. 

The  lower  parts  of  the  mountains,  for  some  hundred  feet  above 
the  plain,  are  of  a  much  lighter  colour  than  the  upper  parts,  and  a 
yellow  border  is  carried  along  their  bases  round  the  whole  circle  of 
the  plain.  It  is  evident  that  a  temporary  inundation  could  not 
effect  so  striking  a  difference  in  the  superficies  of  the  rock,  the 
colour  of  which  must  have  been  changed  from  that  of  the  upper 
parts  by  the  concreting  deposit  of  many  ages. 

Plutarch*  relates  that  Apollo  was  supposed  to  have  destroyed  the 
territory  of  the  Pheneates,  because  Hercules,  who  had  stolen  the 
tripod  from  Delphi,  had  taken  it  to  Pheneos  a  thousand  years  before. 

We  passed  through  some  villages,  and  descending  to  the  plain, 
came  to  the  river  Olbios,  or  Aroanios,  which  was  flowing  in  a  rapid 
and  copious  current  from  the  solution  of  the  snow  upon  the  moun- 
tains. We  crossed  it  with  considerable  difficulty,  and  passing  through 


1   B.  8.  c.  14.   writ  xcu  ep  ij/xtuv  tnjju.e<sc  sXmttla  tti  Ittiv  opwv,  it;  a.  eTrzva.(3y]vai  h  viuip  Aiyotxn. 

*  De  iis  qui  tarde  a  num.  cor. 


A  PALAIO-KASTRO  NEAR  PHONIA.  437 

a  large  kalybia,  in  fifty  minutes  from  the  river,  arrived  at  Phonia,  a 
populous  village  inhabited  by  Greeks,  and  situated  on  the  side  of  a 
picturesque  and  wooded  mountain,  above  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
Pheneos.  We  were  hospitably  received  in  the  house  of  one  of  the 
principal  inhabitants,  and  were  happy  to  get  round  the  fire,  as  the 
evening  was  cold  in  this  elevated  spot,  though  during  the  day  we 
had  suffered  from  the  heat. 


TO  A  PALAIO-KASTRO  ABOVE  PHONIA. 


In  our  inquiries  for  antiquities  in  this  vicinity  we  learned  that 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  city  existed  in  the  mountains  above 
the  village  of  Phonia.  We  accordingly  set  out  on  the  14th, 
provided  with  proper  guides  to  conduct  us  to  the  spot.  On 
quitting  the  village  we  began  to  ascend  by  a  steep  path  trodden 
only  by  goats  ;  the  way  was  consequently  extremely  difficult.  The 
country  was  bold,  wooded,  and  picturesque.  In  forty  minutes  we 
reached  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  the  ruins  were  situated.  It 
consisted  of  a  lofty  rock  of  a  conical  form,  interspersed  with  pine- 
trees,  and  covered  with  loose  stones,  and  so  exceedingly  steep  that 
its  summit  could  be  reached  only  by  pursuing  a  path  of  circuitous 
inflections.  Having  dismounted  from  our  horses,  we  commenced 
the  difficult  ascent,  and,  after  an  hour  of  laborious  climbing, 
we  reached  the  highest  point,  where  we  found  our  trouble  but  ill 
repaid. 

The  area  of  the  hill,  which  is  flat  and  circular,  is  encompassed  by 
walls  of  dubious  antiquity,  as  they  have  nothing  characteristic  in 


438  RUINS  OF  PHENEOS. 

their  construction,  except  in  being  composed  of  a  thick  mass  of 
small  unhewn  stones,  united  with  a  certain  degree  of  care,  but 
without  mortar.  A  few  ancient  tiles  are  also  seen  scattered  about 
the  ruins ;  but  we  could  not  discover  a  single  block  of  hewn  stone, 
or  any  object  of  architectural  interest.  I  have  seen  other  similar 
remains  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  Greece ;  and  they  may  possibly 
be  of  very  early  date,  and  were  perhaps  the  Kufutrnfrus  or  walled 
villages  of  the  ancients.  The  view  from  this  rock  embraces  only  a 
mass  of  mountains,  with  wild  glens  and  rugged  indentations.  It  is  a 
deep  solitude,  where  the  voice  of  man  is  not  heard,  and  not  a  single 
habitation  is  seen. 

We  returned  to  Phonia  in  the  evening,  and  the  next  morning 
examined  the  few  and  imperfect  remains  of  the  ancient  Pheneos, 
which  is  situated  upon  an  insulated  rock  below  the  village.  This 
rock  has  been  encircled  with  walls,  of  which  only  the  foundations 
remain ;  the  rest  of  the  ruins  consist  of  scattered  blocks  and  con- 
fused accumulations. 

Pheneos,  which  was  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of  Greece,  was 
situated  on  a  branch  of  Mount  Cyllene,'  in  that  part  of  Arcadia 
named  Azania.  It  is  mentioned  by  Homer,1  in  his  enumeration  of 
the  Arcadian  cities  which  equipped  forces  for  the  Trojan  expedition. 

The  coins  of  Pheneos  are  scarce,  and  the  beauty  of  them  will 
bear  a  comparison  with  those  of  Stymphalos.  On  the  silver  tetra- 
drachms  is  a  female  head ;  on  the  reverse,  Mercury  with  the  child 
Arkas  in  his  arms ;  inscription  $ENEHN-APKA2.  The  female  head 
is  possibly  that  of  Kallisto,  daughter  of  Lycaon,  of  whom  Jupiter 
became  enamoured,  and  Arkas  was  the  fruit  of  that  passion.  Kal- 
listo was  metamorphosed  into  a  bear,  and  killed  by  Diana ;  but  the 
infant  was  saved  by  Mercury.  Thus  the  coin  and  the  fable  mutually 
elucidate  each  other.5 


1   Eustath.  in  Horn.  p.  301.  14. 

J  Oi  itvitv  7'fvE/xov7o,  xai  0^4(*e>w  iroXiyttjAov.    Iliad,  2.  v.  605. 

3  This  story  is  related  by  Pausanias,  b.  8.  c.  3. 


COINS  OF  PHENEOS.  439 

The  silver  drachmas  have  also  the  female  head ;  reverse,  a  bull ; 
inscription  OENIKON.  The  smaller  silver  coin  represents  the  head 
of  Mercury,  with  the  petasus  thrown  back ;  reverse,  a  sheep ;  in- 
scription OE  and  AP. 

Mercury  was  particularly  worshipped  at  Pheneos,  where  he  had 
a  temple,  and  was  honoured  with  games  called  Egpuict. '  Bacchus 
and  Proserpine  are  also  seen  on  the  coins  of  Pheneos ;  and  the 
bull,  the  sheep,  and  the  horse,  which  are  represented  on  these 
coins,  possibly  allude  to  the  rich  pasturage  of  Phenike.2  Indeed 
we  are  told  by  Pausanias,J  that  Ulysses  preferred  it  to  any  other, 
and  accordingly  pastured  his  horses  in  this  territory. 


TO  THE  KALYBIA  OF  MAZI. 


On  the  15th  we  quitted  Phonia,  with  the  intention  of  passing  by 
the  lake  of  Pheneos  in  our  way  to  the  ruins  of  Kleitor.  We  de- 
scended towards  the  plain,  leaving  the  ruins  of  Pheneos  on  our  right 
hand.  After  pursuing  a  south-west  direction  through  the  plain,  we 
arrived  in  an  hour  and  a  quarter  near  the  confines  of  the  lake,  but 
the  swamps,  with  which  it  is  nearly  surrounded  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  prevented  an  immediate  access  to  its  banks.  This  circum- 
stance excited  my  regret,  as  it  prevented  me  from  examining  the 
katabathron  by  which  it  enters  the  ground. 

The  lake,  which  is  extremely  small,  and  varies  in  size  according 

1  Id.  b.  8.  c.  14.. 
*  The  territory  of  which  Pheneos  was  the  capital  was  called  ievMr).  *  Loc.  cit. 


440  KATABATHRON  OF  THE  LAKE. 

to  the  season  of  the  year,  is  supplied  by  the  perennial  stream  of  the 
Olbios  or  Aroanios,  which  flows  from  Mount  Cyllene,  and  is  con- 
ducted through  the  plain  by  the  artificial  canal  which  was  excavated 
by  Hercules '  for  the  reception  of  its  superfluous  water,  and  for  the 
protection  of  the  surrounding  country  from  the  calamitous  results 
of  an  inundation.  A  part  of  the  river  seems  to  flow  in  its  natural 
channel,  but  a  great  part  of  it  is  evidently  directed  to  the  lake  in  a 
rectilineal  artificial  canal,  which  however  had  already  experienced 
some  obstructions  in  the  time  of  Pausanias. 

The  katabathron  receives  the  Aroanios  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  and 
rocky  mountain  called  Kokino-Bouno.5  It  is  disgorged  after  a  sub- 
terraneous course  of  a  few  miles,  and  when  it  issues  from  the 
ground,  it  forms  another  river  which  was  called  Ladon,  and  which, 
after  a  circuitous  and  rapid  course  through  Arcadia,  unites  its 
stream  with  the  Alpheios.  The  outlet  or  emissary  of  the  Aroanios 
is  noticed  by  several  authors ;  particularly  by  Theophrastus,'  Dio- 
dorus  Siculus,4  Strabo,5  and  Pliny,6  of  whom  the  two  latter  suppose 
it  to  have  been  the  operation  of  an  earthquake.  Conon,7  the  mytho- 
logist,  relates  that  the  rape  of  Proserpine  was  accomplished  at 
Pheneos,  and  that  Pluto  in  that  place  opened  himself  a  passage  to 
the  infernal  regions.  This  fable  evidently  alludes  to  the  kataba- 
thron. A  tradition  prevails  among  the  people  of  Phonia,  that  one 
of  their  kings  was  formerly  engaged  in  a  conflict  with  the  devil, 
and  that  the  only  offensive  weapons  of  his  satanic  majesty  were 
balls  of  grease.  With  these  he  assailed  his  human  adversary,  and 
one  of  the  balls  happening  to  strike  him,  he  immediately  caught 
fire,  and  was  hurried  with  impetuous  velocity  through  the  moun- 
tain. The  passage  of  his  body  caused  a  perforation  which  became 
the  outlet  of  the  lake. 


Pausan.  loc.  cit.  •  The  red  mountain.  '  Hist.  Plant,  b.  3.  c.  1. 

4  B.  15.  c.  49.  *  B.  1.  b.  60.  p.  S.  p.  389.  •  Nat.  Hist.  b.  31.  c.  5. 

7  Narrat.  15. 


THE  LAKE  OF  PHENEOS.  441 

The  waters  of  Pheneos,  as  well  as  the  neighbouring  Styx,  were 
supposed  to  be  possessed  of  peculiar  properties.  iElian '  says,  that 
the  lake  contained  no  fish ;  and  Ovid  *  pretends  that  while  its  water 
might  be  drunk  with  impunity  in  the  day,  it  was  pernicious  at  night. 
The  same  story  is  told  by  the  mythologist  Lactantius.'  The  Abbe 
Fourmont,  speaking  of  the  waters  of  Pheneos,  says,  in  his  usual 
hyperbolical  style,  "  les  bouillons  qui  s'y  forment  ne  ressemblent 
qu'au  bitume  et  au  goudron,  le  poisson  ne  peut  vivre  dans  ce  lac ; 
les  vapeurs  qui  s'en  exhalent  brulent  tous  les  arbres  d'alentour,  et 
les  animaux  fuyent  ses  bords."  Fourmont  appears  not  to  have  con- 
sulted Pausanias  with  sufficient  attention  concerning  Pheneos,  and 
has  endeavoured  to  account  in  his  own  way  for  the  yellow  border, 
which,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  extends  a  considerable  way 
up  the  mountain  all  round  the  plain,  at  the  distance  of  several  miles 
from  the  lake.  Villages  and  detached  houses  are  situated  within 
this  border,  and  the  air  is  not  unhealthy,  which  it  would  be  if  Four- 
mont's  hypothesis  was  correct. 

On  quitting  the  lake  we  began  to  ascend  amongst  a  forest  of 
scattered  firs,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  reached  the  summit  of  the 
ridge  which  constitutes  the  line  of  division  between  the  territory  of 
modern  Corinth  and  Kalabryta.  We  descended  to  a  plain,  and  saw 
the  village  of  Likourio  on  the  right  hand.  This  is  no  doubt  the 
ancient  Lykouria  mentioned  by    Pausanias4,  as  a  village    which 


1  De  Animal,  b.  3.  c.  38. 
'  Metam.  15.  v.  332. 

Est  locus  Arcadiee,  Pheneon  dixere  priores 
Ambiguis  siispectus  aquis,  quas  nocte  tiineto 
Nocte  nocent  potae,  sine  noxa  luce  bibuntur. 

Ladon,  once  Pheneos,  an  Arcadian  stream, 
Ambiguous  in  the  effects,  as  in  the  name, 
By  day  is  wholesome  bev'rage,  but  is  thought 
By  night  infected,  and  a  deadly  draught. 
3  B.  15.  fab.  23.    He  calls  the  lake  Phenos.  4  B.  8.  c.  19.  xwptov. 

VOL.   II.  3   L 


442  SOURCE  OF  THE  LADON. 

was  on  the  road  from  Kleitor  to  Pheneos,  and  which  formed  the 
boundary  of  the  two  territories. 

In  two  hours  from  the  lake  of  Pheneos,  we  reached  a  kephalo- 
brusi,  or  abundant  source  of  water,  which  gurgles  in  continual 
eruptions  from  the  ground,  and  immediately  forms  a  fine  rapid  river, 
which  is  the  Ladon.  The  spring  is  the  outlet  of  the  subterraneous 
waters  of  the  Aroanios  and  the  Lake  of  Pheneos.  Pausanias  does 
not  seem  to  have  examined  the  emissary  of  Pheneos  and  its  re- 
appearance near  Lykouria,  for  he  says  he  has  heard  that  the  marsh 
in  the  Pheneatic '  plain,  after  entering  the  B«^«^a  in  the  mountains, 
forms  the  source  of  the  Ladon.  He  also  speaks  somewhat  con- 
fusedly concerning  the  course  of  the  Ladon,  asserting  in  one  place* 
that  it  enters  the  Peneios,  which  is  near  Elis,  while  in  another  part '  of 
his  tour,  he  makes  it  enter  the  Alpheios.  He  says  that  the  distance 
from  Kleitor  to  the  source  of  the  Ladon  is  sixty  stadia ;  *  and  in 
another  place s  he  tells  us  it  is  near  Kleitor.  He  praises  the  beauty 
of  the  river  as  surpassing  that  of  any  other  stream  in  Greece,  though 
he  says  it  was  not  remarkable  for  its  size. 

On  quitting  the  source  we  made  a  turn  towards  the  north,  where 
a  magnificent  precipice  rose  on  our  right  hand.  We  crossed  two 
little  streams,  and  entering  the  plain  of  Kleitor,  arrived  in  two 
hours  and  twenty  minutes  at  the  kalybia  of  Mazi,  situated  on  a 
gentle  elevation  overlooking  the  plain  of  Katzanes  or  Kleitor.  Near 
the  village  are  the  remains  of  a  small  temple,  which  some  plain 
shafts  of  columns,  and  a  capital  of  marble,  show  to  have  been  of  the 
Doric  order. 


ey  lrj  feyialtxT),  b.  8.  c.  20.  '  B.  6.  c.  22.  s  B.  5.  c.  7.  b.  8.  C.  25. 

♦  B.  8.c.  21.  *  B.  S.  c.  25. 


REMAINS  OF  KLEITOR.  443 


TO  THE  RUINS  OF  KLEITOR. 

On  the  16th  we  visited  the  neighbouring  ruins  of  Kleitor, 
which  are  about  twenty  minutes  from  the  kalybia  where  we  had 
passed  the  night.  They  are  situated  in  a  fertile  plain  surrounded 
by  some  of  the  loftiest  mountains  in  Arcadia,  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  which  Chelmos  rises  in  conspicuous  grandeur.  This 
mountain  is  interspersed  with  silvan  scenery,  where  fine  masses  of 
rock  peer  out  amid  the  united  foliage  of  the  pine,  the  platanus,  the 
ilex,  and  the  oak.  Its  grand  outline  terminates  in  a  pointed  summit 
of  great  height.  Most  of  the  walls  of  Kleitor  may  be  traced,  though 
little  of  them  remains  above  ground.  They  inclose  an  irregular 
oblong  space,  and  were  fortified  with  circular  towers.  The  style  of 
construction  is  nearly  equilateral,  which  gives  them  an  appearance 
of  great  solidity.  Their  general  thickness  is  fifteen  feet,  which  is 
double  the  usual  size.  Here  are  the  remains  of  a  small  Doric 
temple  with  fluted  antae  and  columns,  with  capitals  of  a  singular 
form.  Beyond  the  Avails  of  the  city,  on  the  side  towards  the  kalybia, 
the  ground  is  covered  with  sepulchres  of  the  hypogaia  kind,  similar 
to  those  at  the  Piraeus.  They  might  be  opened  with  little  trouble 
and  expense. 

The  principal  temples  of  Kleitor  were  those  of  Ceres,  of  .ZEscula- 
pius,  and  of  Eileithuia.  The  temple  of  the  Dioscuri  was  four  stadia 
from  the  town.  * 

Kleitor,  the  son  of  Azan,  and  grandson  of  Arkas,  founded  the 


1  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  21.  This  place  is  written  in  various  manners  by  ancient  authors.  In 
Xenophon  it  is  KAsi'of .  In  Polybius  it  is  indifferently  K\tihp,  KXtiluii,  and  K\ihp.  It  is  KA.ei7oj 
in  Pausanias,  and  Clitorium  in  Pliny.  The  territory  was  named  KXetlopia.,  Polyb.  Hist.  b.  4. 
p.  333. 


4A4  FOUNTAIN  OF  KLEITOR. 

town  to  which  he  gave  his  name.     He  was  one  of  the  most  powerful 
kings  of  his  time,  and  generally  resided  at  Lykosoura." 

Kleitor  was  a  strong  post,  and  an  iEtolian  army  had  in  vain  at- 
tempted to  carry  it  by  storm.2  In  the  148th  Olympiad,  the  council 
of  the  Achaeans  was  held  at  this  city  in  the  presence  of  the  Roman 
legates.'  The  Kleitorians  were  a  generous  people,  and  zealous  ad- 
vocates for  liberty.4  The  history  of  this  little  state  is  enveloped  in 
obscurity,  and  not  much  more  is  known  of  it  than  that  it  was 
sequestered  in  the  heart  of  Arcadia,  and  as  it  were  excluded  by  its 
mountainous  inclosure  from  the  other  states  of  Greece.  The  money 
of  this  place  has  not  as  yet  been  known.  I  purchased  a  silver  coin 
at  Kalpaki,  the  ancient  Orchomenos,  which  in  all  probability  be- 
longed to  Kleitor.  It  exhibits  the  radiated  head  of  Apollo,  and  on 
the  reverse  the  bos  cornupeta,  or  butting  bull.     Inscrip.  KAH. 


Kleitor  was  celebrated  for  its  fountain,  the  water  of  which  was  of 
so  excellent  a  quality,  that  those  who  drank  of  it  were  supposed  im- 
mediately to  lose  their  taste  for  wine!5  Athenaeus5  says,  that  ac- 
cording to  Phylarchos,  no  one  who  had  drank  of  that  fountain  could 
ever  afterwards  bear  even  the  smell  of  wine. 


■  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  4.  *  Polyb.  Hist.  b.  4.  p.  288. 

3  Polyb.  Excerptae  Legat.  43.  p.  856. 
4  Id.  Hist.  b.  2.  p.  140.  and  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist.  b.  31.  c.  2.  Vinum  Uedio  venire  his  qui  ex 
Clitorio  lacu  biberint. 

*  Vitruv.  b.  8.  c.  3.     Ovid.  Metam.  15.  v.  322. 

Clitorio  quicunque  sitim  de  fonte  levarit 
Vina  fugit,  gaudetque  meris  abstemius  undis. 

Clitorian  streams  the  love  of  wine  expel, 
Such  is  the  virtue  of  th'  abstemious  well. 
a  Deipuosoph.  I).  2.  c.  5. 


RIVER  KLEITOR.     MUSICAL  FISH.  445 

This  is  the  source  which  produces  the  river  Kleitor,  which  rises 
near  the  ruins,  and  ripples  in  a  mseandering  current  through  the 
plain.  Its  banks  are  in  some  places  shaded  with  trees,  having  the 
character  of  an  English  trout  stream.  It  enters  the  Aroanios,  at  the 
distance  of  seven  stadia  from  Kleitor."  I  drank  of  its  water,  which 
is  pure  and  limpid,  but  I  could  not  perceive  that  it  inspired  any  dis- 
taste for  wine ;  or  in  any  degree  augmented  my  attachment  to  the 
simple  beverage  of  the  spring.  When  I  informed  my  Tatar  of  the 
pretended  qualities  of  this  fountain,  he  refused  drinking  of  it,  as  he 
remarked  that  he  should  never  again  know  happiness  if  he  lost  his 
taste  for  wine.  Ibrahim,  on  the  contrary,  took  large  draughts  of  it, 
in  order  to  corroborate  his  antipathy  for  the  forbidden  liquor. 

Pausanias*  very  gravely  informs  us  that  the  Aroanios  contained  a 
kind  offish  named  UoixiXiu,  which  was  gifted  with  the  singular  power 
of  singing  like  a  thrush.  He  says  that  he  saw  these  fish  when 
caught,  but  that  he  never  could  hear  them  sing;  and  that  he 
tarried  by  the  river  side  till  sunset,  which  was  the  time  of  day  when 
they  were  supposed  to  be  most  musically  inclined  !  Pliny3  pretends 
that  this  kind  of  fish  was  denominated  Exoccetus,  because  it  used  to 
go  upon  the  land  to  sleep ;  that  it  was  musical  near  Kleitor,  and 
that  it  had  no  fins,  and  was  sometimes  called  Adonis.  According 
to  Athenseus,*  it  was  the  opinion  of  Philostephanos  that  the  vocal 
fish  was  found  in  the  Aroanios;  while  Clearchos  asserted  that  it  was 
in  the  Ladon,  and  Mnasios,  in  the  Kleitor;  and  that  Philostephanos 
calls  it  UoixiXta.  Though  my  faith  in  Pausanias  was  not  quite 
sufficient  to  induce  me,  after  his  example,  to  sit  on  the  bank  of 
the  river  all  the  afternoon,  in  hopes  of  hearing  the  fish  sing,  yet 
from  some  inquiries  which  I  made  of  a  fisherman,  who  had  just 
been   successful   in  catching  some    trout  of  a  fine  bright   colour, 


'  Pausan.  b.  8.  c.  21.  *  Loc.  cit. 

»  Nat.  Hist.  b.  9.  c.  19.  Miratur  et  Arcadia  suum  exoccetum,  appellatum  ab  eo  quod  in 
siccum  sonini  causa  exeat,  circa  Clitorium  vocalis  hie  traditur  et  sine  braciis,  idem  aliquibus 
Adonis  dictus.  *  Deipnosoph.  b.  8.  c.  1. 


446  TROUT  OF  THE  RIVER  KLEITOR. 

and  beautifully  variegated,  I  learned  that  the  river  abounds  most 
in  this  species  of  fish,  that  it  is  seldom  taken  of  more  than  a 
pound  and  a  half  in  weight,  and  that  it  forms  a  considerable  object 
of  traffic  with  the  neighbouring  villages  ;  particularly  in  fast  time,  for 
which  period  they  are  salted  and  smoked.  I  have  no  doubt  that  the 
word  poikilia  signifies  trout,  from  its  spotted  and  many-coloured 
scales.  For  a  similar  reason,  Herodotus,*  speaking  of  red  granite, 
calls  it  Xi0o{  AiOiOTixoe  vrotxiXo;. 


TO  THE  MONASTERY  OF  MEGASPELIA. 


We  continued  our  route  on  the  17th,  wishing  to  find  the  remains  of 
Cynaetha,2  and  to  visit  the  celebrated  monastery  of  Megaspelia :  we 
passed  by  a  copious  stream  which  descends  from  Mount  Chelmos,  and 
is  called  the  river  of  Katsanes;  it  is  shaded  with  platani,  and  bounded 
by  fine  precipices.  The  vale  here  contracts,  and  we  pursued  a  route 
in  a  northern  direction.  Having  crossed  a  stream,  we  came  to  the 
extremity  of  the  glen,  and  began  to  ascend ;  we  passed  by  the  se- 
pulchre of  a  Turkish  agha,  who  had  been  killed  on  the  spot  by  the 
thieves  of  Suthena,  a  few  years  before.  We  crossed  a  bridge  over  a 
river,  and  observed  a  village  to  the  left,  on  a  hill.  After  a  gentle 
continuity  of  ascent,  we  reached  the  elevated  plain  of  Suthena,  which 
is  well  cultivated,  and  encompassed  with  hills,  above  which,  in  the 
north-west,  the  lofty  Olenos  displays  its  snowy  top. 


1  B  2.  c.  127.     The  modern  Greek  name  for  trout  is  UttrleoXa  or  Uctnpofr,. 

'  KuvaiJa. 


TOWN  OF  KALABRYTA.  44/ 

We  passed  through  the  large  and  scattered  village  of  Suthena, 
which  is  frequently  the  resort  of  thieves :  indeed  many  of  the  vil- 
lagers are  supposed  to  be  robbers  by  profession  :  they  are  a  savage 
looking  people ;  and  though  we  wished  to  examine  the  surrounding 
country,  my  attendants  advised  me  not  to  pass  the  night  amongst 
them.  We  accordingly  proceeded;  and  towards  the  end  of  the 
plain  observed  some  traces  of  antiquity,  apparently  the  cella  of  a 
temple.  Between  Kleitor  and  Cynastha,  and  forty  stadia  from  the 
latter,  there  was  a  temple  of  Diana.  These  ruins  probably  indicate 
the  spot  to  which  both  Polybius1  and  Pausanias*  refer.  We  here 
began  to  mount  some  elevations,  and  reached  the  summit  in  thirty- 
five  minutes;  we  then  descended;  and  in  forty  minutes  came  to  an 
insulated  rock,  upon  which  there  are  some  ruins,  called  Palaio- 
Kalabryta,  the  whole  of  which  is,  however,  composed  of  small  stones. 
I  did  not  see  one  large  block,  nor  any  positive  traces  of  antiquity, 
as  the  ruins  in  question  are  apparently  modern.  The  monastery  of 
Megaspelia  is  visible  from  this  point  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  a 
deep  and  uneven  valley.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  more  brought  us 
to  the  town  of  Kalabryta,  which  is  the  head  of  a  jurisdiction,  and 
the  seat  of  a  voivode.  It  is  mentioned  as  a  town  in  the  year  1450, 
by  George  Phranza.3  It  may  be  doubted  whether  this  place  occu- 
pies the  site  of  an  ancient  city,  for  its  scanty  remains  have  an  am- 
biguous character;  but  there  is  some  reason  for  supposing  that  it 
stands  upon  the  site  of  Cynaetha,  the  inhabitants  of  which,  unlike 
their  generous  neighbours  the  Kleitorians,  were  an  unprincipled,  un- 
civilized, and  cruel  race  of  people.  In  an  elaborate  discourse,  Po- 
lybius4  endeavours  to  prove  that  this  character  was  owing  to  their 
being  the  only  people  in  all  Arcadia  who  did  not  cultivate  music, 
which  softens  the  manners,  refines  the  sentiments,  and  heightens  the 
social  sympathies  of  mankind. 

'  Hist.  b.  4.  p.  288.  *  B.  8.  c.  19.  J  B.  3.  c.  22.  4  Hist.  b.  4.  p.  289. 


44S  MONASTERY  OF  MEGASPEL1A. 

The  only  objects  at  Cynaetha,  which  are  mentioned  by  Pausanias' 
as  worthy  of  notice,  are  a  temple*  of  Bacchus,  and  several  altars  in 
the  agora.  We  were  fearful  of  arriving  late  at  the  monastery  of 
Megaspelia,  and  accordingly  prosecuted  our  journey  without  delay. 
We  traversed  a  part  of  the  plain  of  Kalabry  ta ;  and,  entering  a  gorge 
of  precipitous  mountains,  descended  to  a  winding  glen,  with  a  rapid 
river  flowing  through  the  midst,  while  perpendicular  rocks  rose 
above  in  every  fantastic  variety  of  form.  This  river  is  the  Bou- 
raikos,  which  is  here  called  Tlo]xpo$  rm  KaXuC^vluv,  "  the  river  of  Ka- 
labryta ;"  and  which,  after  winding  through  craggy  hollows,  and 
dark  glens,  and  washing  the  lower  margin  of  the  rock  on  which  the 
town  of  Boura  stood,  enters  the  Corinthian  gulf  at  the  distance  of 
about  two  hours  and  a  quarter  to  the  south-east  of  Bostitza. 

The  aspect  of  the  country  was  romantically  wild  and  grand,  till 
the  beauty  of  the  scenery  disappeared  in  the  shades  of  night. 

In  two  hours  from  Kalabryta  we  reached  the  monastery,  but  not 
before  the  gates  were  shut;  and  admission  was  accordingly  refused. 
We  were  cold  and  hungry,  and  destitute  of  provisions;  and,  though 
there  are  chambers  on  the  outside  of  the  convent,  where  the  traveller 
may  repose,  yet  we  begged  hard  to  be  admitted  within  the  walls. 
When  we  told  them  that  we  were  Franks,  they  desired  us  to  stand 
in  the  moonshine,  that  they  might  see  our  hats,  while  they  examined 
our  number  and  appearance  from  the  windows.  We  accordingly  took 
our  station  at  the  appointed  spot;  and,  as  I  was  the  only  Frank  of 
the  party,  and  the  only  one  with  a  hat,  they  said  they  thought  it 
very  strange  that  a  single  Frank  should  travel  in  such  a  country, 
and  at  such  an  hour,  attended  only  by  Turks.  They  consented, 
however,  to  unbar  the  doors,  and  let  us  in.  A  quarter  of  an  hour 
elapsed  before  the  door  was  opened,  when  we  entered  a  long  passage 
between  a  double  line  of  monks,  all  of  whom  had,  as  I  afterwards 


Loc.  cit.  *  Up/jr. 


MONASTERY  OF  MEGASPELIA.  449 

afterwards  found,  arms  concealed  under  their  ample  robes  ;  for  such 
is  the  insecurity  of  their  situation,  and  the  lawless  distraction  of  the 
country,  that  they  are  compelled  to  take  every  possible  precaution 
to  prevent  surprise  and  spoliation.  I  was  shown  into  a  comfortable 
chamber,  and  a  blazing  fire  of  fir-wood  was  lighted  for  me  by  some 
young  boys  in  the  sacerdotal  habit.  Salique  soon  came  in  to  inform 
me  that  he  had  already  tasted  the  wine,  which  was  excellent ;  and 
that  he  had  seen  the  horned  pigs l  deposit  their  arms,  which  they 
had  under  their  cloaks  when  we  were  admitted. 

I  rose  at  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning,  as  I  was  anxious 
to  examine  the  situation  of  the  monastery,  which,  during  the  moon- 
light of  the  preceding  evening,  had  a  most,  extraordinary  appear- 
ance; nor  was  the  interest  of  the  scene  diminished  by  the  glare  of 
day.  It  is  erected  upon  a  steep  and  narrow  ridge,  and  against  the 
mouth  of  a  large  natural  cavern.  Indeed  most  of  the  interior  of  the 
edifice  is  within  the  cave  itself,  or  projects  but  little  beyond.  It  is 
a  large  white  building,  of  a  picturesque  and  irregular  form,  consist- 
ing of  eight  stories,  and  twenty-three  windows  in  front.  It  faces 
the  west.  A  magnificent  precipice,  of  four  or  five  hundred  feet  in 
height,  rises  from  the  cave,  and  overhangs  the  monastery  in  such  a 
manner,  that  when  the  Arnauts,  who  ravaged  great  part  of  the 
Morea,  found  it  impossible  to  take  the  monastery  in  front,  on 
account  of  the  narrow  and  defensible  passes,  they  attempted  to  roll 
down  upon  it  large  masses  of  stone  from  the  precipice  above;  but 
they  all  fell  beyond  the  walls  of  the  consecrated  edifice.  The 
monks,  of  course,  were  not  backward  in  ascribing  this  circumstance 
to  a  miracle.  The  garden  of  the  convent  is  in  its  front,  and  situated 
on  a  quick  slope,  supported  by  terrace  walls,  and  approached  by 
zigzag  ways.  Some  cypresses,  which  grow  in  the  garden,  add  greatly 
to  its  picturesque  effect.     When  I  requested  permission  to  inspect 


1  A  term  of  contempt ;  meaning,  in  this  instance,  tlie  monks. 
VOL.    II.  3   M 


450  MONASTERY  OF  MEGASPELIA. 

the  church,  the  monks  seemed  more  desirous  of  showing  their  cellar, 
which  is  indeed  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  It  occupies  the 
greater  part  of  the  ground  floor ;  and  was  filled  with  large  casks, 
which  contain  wine  of  a  better  quality  than  that  usually  found  in 
the  Morea,  and  it  is,  moreover,  always  cool.  Salique,  enchanted  by 
the  delicious  sight,  swore,  by  the  sword  of  Mohamed,  that  he  would 
become  a  monk  himself,  if  it  could  be  done  without  abandoning  the 
religion  of  the  prophet.  The  church  is  incrusted  with  ancient  mar- 
bles, embellished  with  gilding,  and  sanctified  with  the  paintings  of 
Panagias  and  Saints.  It  is  illuminated  with  silver  lamps,  but  badly 
lighted  from  without. 

Megaspelia  is  the  largest  monastery  in  Greece,  and  owes  its  founda- 
tion or  completion  to  the  Greek  emperors  John  Cantacuzene  and  An- 
dronicus,  and  Constantine  Palaeologus.  It  supports  about  four  hun- 
dred and  fifty  monks,  most  of  whom  are  dispersed  about  the  country, 
and  engaged  in  superintending  the  metochia,  and  cultivating  the 
land.  Its  currant  plantations  are  considerable,  and  produce  80,000 
pounds  weight  annually.  It  is  a  fiutriXizu.  pomtrmgict,  or  royal  mo- 
nastery, and  enjoys  great  privileges.  The  hegoumenos,  or  abbot,  is 
elected  yearly;  but  the  same  individual  is  frequently  re-elected,  if 
his  conduct  has  been  approved.  When  they  cease  to  hold  that  place 
they  are  denominated  Kgotiyovpsvoi,  and  are  more  respected  than  the 
other  monks. 

The  palladium  of  this  monastery  is  an  image  of  the  Virgin,  that  is 
said  to  have  been  made  by  Saint  Luke.  This  attracts  the  visits  of 
pilgrims,  and  makes  a  great  addition  to  the  revenue  of  the  pious 
establishment.  The  situation  of  Megaspelia  is  damp,  and  the  monks 
are  subject  to  the  rheumatism. 

The  country  round  the  monastery  is  rich  in  combinations  of  pic- 
turesque grandeur  and  sublimity.  Woods  of  aged  growth  are  seen 
upon  the  mountains  ;  and  the  rocks  are  precipitously  bold. 

The  largest  monastery  in  the  Morea,  after  that  of  Megaspelia,  is 
Taxiarchi,  which  is  about  an  hour  and  a  half  from  Bostitza  towards 


FOUNT  ALUSSON.  451 

the  mountains.  It  is  also  a  (Baa-i'Kixa,  povuo-rrigtu, :  and  the  monks  in- 
flame the  devotion  of  the  pilgrims  by  the  sight  of  the  spunge  which 
was  given  to  the  thirsting  Saviour,  and  of  the  aumfavov  erre<pa,vovt  or 
crown  of  thorns,  which  he  wore. 


TO  GUSUMISTRIS 

On  the  18th,  we  quitted  the  wonderful  scenery  of  Megaspelia, 
and  directed  our  steps  towards  Patra,  where  my  journey  in  Greece 
was  to  close. 

We  descended  by  a  winding  way,  and  traversed  a  bridge  over  the 
rapid  Bouraikos.  Having  crossed  a  bridge  over  another  stream  we  saw 
a  village  to  our  right  called  Kerpini,  and  soon  after  entered  the  plain 
of  Kalabry  ta.  In  two  hours  from  Megaspelia  we  crossed  a  bridge 
of  six  arches,  and  observed  some  small  Doric  columns  and  capitals 
lying  on  the  ground,  and  a  sepulchral  spelaion,  or  cave,  formed 
in  the  rock.  It  is  at  present  used  as  a  church,  and  the  roof  is  orna- 
mented with  square  compartments.  Near  it  is  another  sepulchral 
chamber,  which  is  also  hewn  in  the  rock.  A  few  minutes  more 
brought  us  to  a  clear  spring  that  is  only  a  short  distance  from  Kala- 
bryta,  which  is  seen  on  the  left.  This  is  perhaps  the  fountain  Alus- 
son;  the  draught  of  which,  according  to  Pausanias,'  was  a  certain 
cure  for  the  bite  of  a  mad  dog.  It  was  situated  at  the  dis- 
tance of  two  stadia  from  Cynaotha.  Its  efficacy  in  this  particular 
malady  is  no  longer  experienced ;  but  it  is  extremely  salubrious,  and 
is  the  resort  of  those  who  attend  the  church.     The  spring  forms  a 


'   B.  8.C.  9. 

3ii2 


452  PLAIN  OF  KALABRYTA. 

small  stream,  which  in  some  places  spreads  into  marshy  ground. 
It  greatly  assists  in  fertilizing  the  plain  of  Kalabryta,  which  furnishes 
some  of  the  finest  pasture  in  the  Morea.  During  the  summer  months 
many  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  country  send 
their  horses  to  graze  in  this  plain,  paying  twenty  paras  a  day  for  the 
feed  of  each  horse,  and  the  pasture  is  so  rich  that  they  are  said  to 
grow  fat  in  a  very  short  time. 

As  we  quitted  this  place,  a  road  diverged  to  the  left,  with  a  nar- 
row pass,  and  derbeni,  leading  to  Tripotamia,  the  ancient  Psophis. 
A  rnetochi  of  Megaspelia  is  visible  on  the  right,  and  some  ancient 
vestiges  are  seen  at  the  extremity  of  the  plain.  We  ascended,  and, 
passing  over  a  gentle  elevation,  came  to  a  forest  of  oaks,  when  we 
crossed  a  bridge  over  a  river,  which  enters  the  gulf  of  Corinth  between 
the  Bouraikos  and  Bostitza.  Mount  Olenos  was  seen  rising  to  the 
west.  We  crossed  a  plain,  and  ascended  through  fine  forests  of  oaks 
and  platani.  This  place  offers  such  security  of  refuge,  and  such 
density  of  forest,  that  it  has  always  been  celebrated  as  the  resort  of 
banditti.  We  several  times  crossed  a  winding  stream  that  soon 
enters  a  larger  river,  over  which  we  passed  by  a  bridge.  This  is  the 
Selinos,  which  enters  the  gulf  of  Corinth  about  a  mile  to  the  south- 
east of  Bostitza,  where  its  banks  are  connected  by  a  bridge  of  nine 
arches. 

After  proceeding  an  hour  and  five  minutes  from  the  Selinos  we 
saw  a  khan  on  the  left',  and  a  palaio-kastro  situated  on  an  elevation 
to  the  right.  Its  modern  name  is  Agios  Andreas,  from  a  church 
which  is  seen  amongst  the  ruins.  The  walls  are  in  most  places  nearly 
level  with  the  ground,  but  may  nevertheless  be  traced  round  the 
ancient  city,  which  seems  to  have  been  of  considerable  extent.  It 
is  difficult  to  determine  the  ancient  name  of  this  place;  it  may 
possibly  be  Tritaia,  which,  according  to  Pausanias,1  was  an  inland8 
town  of  Achaia.    We  passed  the  night  at  the  neighbouring  village  of 


B.  1.  c.  22.  *  ttoXi;  sv  pitroyziui. 


ALBANIAN  ROBBERS/  453 

Gusumistris,  situated  in  a  large  undulating  plain,  devoted  to  the 
labours  of  agriculture,  but  bare  of  trees.  Between  it  and  the  palaio- 
kastro  is  a  river  which  flows  towards  the  south-east. 


TO  PATRA. 


On  quitting  Gusumistris,  on  the  19th  of  March,  we  crossed  a 
stream,  which  soon  unites  with  a  river,  which  we  also  passed  a  few 
minutes  afterwards.  In  two  hours  time  we  crossed  another  river ; 
and  twenty-two  minutes  further,  another ;  both  of  which  find  their 
way  to  the  Corinthian  gulf,  and  enter  the  sea  to  the  north-west  of 
Bostitza.  These  are  probably  the  Phoenix  and  the  Meganitas, 
which  were  between  iEgion  and  Patrae. '  The  country  had  a  gloomy 
appearance,  and  seemed  but  thinly  inhabited.  A  poor  village  or 
two  were  seen  at  some  distance  from  the  road.  At  one  of  these 
places,  which  was  situated  near  the  entrance  of  a  forest,  about  a 
dozen  dirty  Albanians,  on  seeing  us  pass,  rushed  out  of  their  cottages ; 
and,  on  inquiring  if  we  wrere  going  to  Patra,  and  being  answered  in 
the  affirmative,  advised  us  to  take  them  as  guards,  as  the  wooded 
tract  we  were  about  to  enter  was  infested  by  banditti,  and  extremely 
dangerous. 

Without  waiting  for  our  determination  they  brought  out  their  mus- 
kets, and  seemed  resolved  to  attach  themselves  to  our  party ;  but  we 
felt  little  inclination  to  accept  their  proffered  protection,  and  more 
particularly  when  we  observed  them  whispering  together,  and  appa- 
rently contriving  some  mischief.  Their  savage  looks  and  forbidding 
manners  moreover  strengthened  our  determination  not  to  comply  with 

1  Pausan.  b.  7-  c.  23. 


454  ALBANIAN  ROBBERS. 

their  importunities,  which  gave  them  great  offence.  They  then 
asked  for  backshish,  or  a  present,  which  I  refused,  as  I  did  not  deem 
it  prudent  to  yield  to  any  demands  made  under  such  circumstances, 
lest  it  might  serve  to  inflame  their  rapacity  and  augment  their  exac- 
tions. They  then  posted  themselves  near  the  entrance  of  the  forest, 
pretending  not  to  take  any  notice  of  us,  though  evidently  watching 
our  motions.  Indeed,  we  entertained  little  doubt  of  their  intention 
to  rob  us ;  and,  as  I  had  but  little  money  about  me,  and  only  few 
valuables  in  their  estimation,  this  might  have  been  a  slight  misfor- 
tune ;  but  there  was  too  much  reason  to  suppose  that  the  robbery 
would  have  been  accompanied  with  murder,  or,  at  least,  that  we 
should  have  been  taken  prisoners,  and  not  have  recovered  our  liberty 
without  paying  a  considerable  ransom.  We,  therefore,  lost  no  time 
in  consulting  how  to  defeat  their  machinations.  It  was  evidently 
unsafe  to  remain  near  the  village,  and  we  instantly  embraced  the 
alternative  of  entering  the  forest,  though  they  seemed  prepared  to 
follow  our  steps.  But,  after  proceeding  a  short  way,  we  quitted  the 
beaten  track,  and  one  of  our  guides,  who  knew  the  country,  con- 
ducted us  towards  the  foot  of  Mount  Panachaikos,  quite  out  of  the 
way  to  Patra. 

We  descried  the  Arnauts  entering  the  forest  in  another  part  as 
soon  as  we  did,  and  there  could  no  longer  be  any  doubt  of  their 
nefarious  designs ;  they  seemed  unwilling  to  attack  us  in  sight  of 
the  village,  and  probabby  intended  to  waylay  us  in  the  forest.  Our 
situation  was  critical,  and  none  of  our  party  was  pleased  with  the 
prospect  before  us,  which  seemed,  indeed,  to  portend  but  an  unfor- 
tunate conclusion  of  a  long  and  difficult  journey.  Poor  Salique 
turned  pale,  and  when  we  jeered  him  (for  his  cowardice,  as  well  as 
his  love  of  wine,  had  become  a  constant  joke  among  us),  he  declared 
that  it  was  not  fear,  but  rage,  which  discoloured  his  cheek  and  shook 
his  frame.  He  affected  to  feel  particularly  indignant  at  the  idea  of 
being  pillaged,  and  perhaps  murdered,  within  so  few  miles  of  his 
own  home.  Ibrahim,  who  was  enterprising  even  to  foolhardiness, 
proposed   that  our  small   and  ill-armed  party  should  resist  these 


ALBANIAN  ROBBERS.  455 

desperate  ruffians,  whose  constant  occupation  was  robbery  and 
murder.  It  would  appear,  at  least  so  we  concluded,  that  the  Alba- 
nians, on  entering  the  forest,  had  run  on  before  us  in  order  to  way- 
lay us  on  the  road  which  leads  to  Patra;  and  that,  not  finding  us, 
they  had  dispersed  in  quest  of  their  prey;  for  we  heard  them  shout- 
ing at  a  distance,  but  their  voices  at  last  died  away,  and  we  heard 
them  no  more.  We  then  began  to  hope  that  we  had  eluded  their 
pursuit.  Our  escape  was  favoured  by  the  dense  intricacies  of  the 
forest,  which  we  traversed  by  almost  impervious  ways  that  had  not 
perhaps  been  trodden  for  ages. 

We  pushed  forward  as  fast  as  luggage  horses  and  the  trackless 
thickets  would  permit.  We  were  sometimes  detained  by  the  falling 
of  a  horse  where  the  ground  was  broken  by  large  roots  of  trees  and 
pointed  rocks.  This  pass  was  so  notorious,  only  a  few  years  ago,  for 
the  continual  murders  which  were  committed  there,  that  it  obtained, 
and  still  preserves,  the  name  of  Makellaria, '  or  the  butcherv.  It  was 
accordingly  quite  deserted,  and  recourse  was  had  to  more  circuitous 
roads.  The  thieves  upon  this  changed  their  haunt,  and  those  who  had 
pursued  us  were  probably  only  induced  to  exercise  their  predatory 
talent  upon  us  by  the  irresistible  temptation  we  had  thrown  in  their 
way. 

The  forest  which  we  passed  was  composed  of  several  kinds  of 
oak,  particularly  the  ever-green  ilex  and  the  silver  fir,  or  eXccJrr,  as  it 
is  now  called  ;  from  the  branches  of  which  I  observed  great  pendant 
clusters  of  misletoe.*  The  quercus  suber,  or  cork  tree,  also  abounds 
in  this  forest,  the  bark  of  which  is  sometimes  four  or  five  inches 
thick.  It  may  be  stripped  of  its  bark  once  in  three  years;  it  then 
grows  again  with  renewed  vigour.3  But  as  we  were  at  that  time 
little  disposed  to  examine  minutely  the  beauties  of  nature,  Ave  pro- 
ceeded with  all  possible  velocity,  until  at  length,  after  scrambling 


1  This  word  may  be  derived  from  V-o-yjii  or  from  the  Latin  macellarius. 
See  Rees's  Encyclop.  under  the  articles  Viscum  and  Loranthus. 
3  See  Evelyn's  Sylva,  c.  25. 


456  ARRIVAL  AT  PATRA. 

through  the  forest  for  three  hours,  we  came  to  its  extremity  ;  and  to 
our  great  joy  looked  down  upon  the  fertile  plain  of  Patra,  at  the  end 
of  which  the  town  was  visible,  with  the  Ionian  sea,  and  the  entrance 
of  the  Corinthian  gulf.  I  never  saw  a  view  which  gave  me  more 
satisfaction  ;  and  Salique,  finding  himself  out  of  danger,  and  in  sight 
of  his  native  city,  exclaimed  with  a  loud  voice,  "  now,  let  the  rascals 
come  if  they  dare,  and  they  shall  find  what  it  is  to  attack  a  Tatar." 
He  then  examined  the  state  of  his  pistols,  but  did  not  cease  to  look 
behind  every  now  and  then,  with  a  kind  of  anxious  inquietude, 
until  we  descended  to  the  plain,  when  he  alighted  from  his  horse,  per- 
formed ablution  at  a  fountain,  and  muttered  some  words  of  thanks- 
giving to  the  prophet. 

We  crossed  a  broad  channel,  containing  a  slender  stream  which 
descends  from  Mount  Panachaikos,  and  which  flows  through  the 
plain  to  the  sea.  This  is  probably  the  Glaukos ;  its  modern  name  is 
Leuka.  We  passed  a  short  distance  to  the  right  of  the  great  cypress, 
and  arrived  in  the  evening  at  Patra,  where  I  was  happy  to  repose 
some  days  under  the  hospitable  roof  of  our  consul,  Mr.  Strani. 

I  was  fatigued  with  the  length  of  the  journey  through  Greece, 
and  while  I  was  meditating  the  final  conclusion  of  my  peregrinations, 
and  my  return  to  Rome,  I  felt  great  satisfaction  in  reviewing  in  my 
mind,  and  contemplating  at  my  ease,  the  many  scenes  of  great  beauty 
and  of  deep  interest  which  I  had  lately  visited. 

The  Peloponnesos  is  a  small  country,  and  might  be  seen  in  a  very 
sh  rt  time,  if  the  roads  were  better,  and  the  mode  of  travelling  more 
expeditious ;  as  it  is,  the  travelling  is  so  extremely  slow,  and  the  in- 
teresting objects  are  so  numerous  and  dispersed,  that  if  the  tra- 
veller is  a  draughtsman,  he  should  bestow  eight  or  ten  months  upon 
the  Peninsula  alone. 

Although  I  had  not,  in  this  last  expedition,  the  advantage  of  being 
attended  by  Signor  Pomardi,  yet  I  made  several  accurate  drawings 
of  the  architectural  remains,  and  the  wonderful  scenery  of  Eleia, 
Messenia,  Laconia,  and  Arcadia. 

I  had  the  good  fortune  to  find  at  Patra  Mr.  Gell,  and  Mr  Raikcs, 


TERMINATION  OF  MY  JOURNEY  IN  THE  MORE  A.  457 

who  having  also  concluded  their  tour  in  Greece,  had  arrived  here 
with  an  intention  of  proceeding  to  England  or  to  Malta.  My 
destiny  compelled  me  to  direct  my  course  still  far  from  home:  I 
had  solemnly  engaged  my  word  to  the  French  government  to  return 
to  Rome  after  my  absence  of  two  years  was  expired ;  and  thus, 
contrary  to  all  my  interests,  and  inclinations,  and  intended  plans  in 
life,  I  was  obliged  to  surrender  myself  once  more  a  prisoner.  In 
the  mean  time  I  wrote  to  Signor  Pomardi,  who,  during  my  tour 
through  the  Morea,  had  re-established  his  health  at  Zakunthos ; 
and,  though  he  was  only  in  a  state  of  convalescence  during  the 
greater  part  of  his  stay  in  that  island,  yet  his  unremitting  diligence, 
and  his  enthusiastic  admiration  of  the  beauties  of  nature,  had  in- 
duced him  to  make  several  drawings,  and  four  highly  finished  pano- 
ramas of  that  island,  which  the  Italians,  from  its  singular  beauty, 
call  the  flower  of  the  Levant.  It  is  to  the  unwearied  diligence  and 
accurate  observation  of  this  celebrated  artist  that  I  am  indebted  for 
a  collection  of  600  views  of  Greece,  while  400  more  were  made  by 
myself.  After  a  few  days,  Signor  Pomardi  arrived  at  Patra;  and, 
as  it  was  our  intention  to  visit  the  ruins  near  Mesalo^oion,  as  well 
as  some  of  the  Ionian  islands,  we  hired  a  boat  to  convey  us  as  far  as 
Corfu.  I  dismissed  my  attendants,  who  had  served  me  faithfully 
throughout  my  tour,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  sending  them  to  their 
homes  in  a  state  of  grateful  contentment  with  the  remuneration  they 
received.  Ibrahim  contemplated  treating  himself  with  a  new  gun, 
a  pair  of  silver-mounted  pistols,  and  a  fine  sword  ;  Georgio  Statin 
already  talked  of  the  olive  trees  he  intended  to  possess  at  Athens, 
where  he  said  he  should  remain  and  cultivate  his  land,  as  he  had 
travelled  enough  for  the  remainder  of  his  life. 


VOL.  II.  3  N 


458     .  PROSECUTION  OF  OUR  JOURNEY. 


TO  MESALOGGION. 


Taking  leave  of  our  kind  host  on  the  2d  of  April,  we  quitted  Patra, 
and  the  beautiful  country  of  the  Peloponnesos,  with  the  deepest 
regret.  The  wind  was  not  very  favourable,  and  the  sea  was  too  rough 
for  our  small  boat.  We  reached  Mesaloggion  in  six  hours,  extremely 
uncomfortable  from  the  cold,  and  wet  from  the  spray  of  the  sea. 

A  second  visit  which  I  now  made  to  the  ancient  city  in  this  vicinity, 
and  the  further  information  which  I  obtained,  have  nearly  convinced 
me  that  they  are  not  the  ruins  of  CEniadai,  which  are  situated  several 
miles  to  the  west  of  this  place,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Acheloos,  on  the 
western  side,  and  are  at  present  known  by  the  name  of  Trigardon. 
The  remains  are  extensive,  and  the  walls  are  in  the  second  style  of 
construction. 

On  the  5th  we  proceeded  on  our  voyage;  and  the  wind  being,  as 
usual,  contrary,  we  slept  in  our  boat  at  a  mud  island,  which  is  occu- 
pied by  some  fishermen's  cots,  and  is  about  six  miles  from  Mesa- 
loggion. 

On  the  6th  we  again  attempted  to  proceed ;  but  were  again  driven 
back,  and  took  up  our  abode  for  a  day  and  night  in  another  mud 
island  called  Basiladi,  which  is  covered  with  a  fisherman's  village, 
composed  of  the  most  miserable  huts  of  wicker-work  that  I  ever 
beheld. 

An  old  fisherman,  of  venerable  aspect,  with  a  beard  as  white  as 
snow,  and  a  fish  spear  in  his  hand,  formed  like  the  trident  of 
Neptune,  offered  us  the  use  of  his  cottage,  which  we  gladly 
accepted.  Its  only  furniture  was  a  bed  of  reeds,  nets,  fish  traps, 
and  other  implements  of  a  similar  nature.  The  beautiful  lines 
in  which  Theocritus  describes  the  cot  of  the  fisherman,  were 
as  applicable  to  the  hut  we  occupied  as  if  the  very  articles  and 


A  FISHERMAN'S  COTTAGE.  459 

utensils  of  our  host  had  been  actually  registered  in  the  verses  of 
the  poet:' 

I%9uo;  aypevtye;  opta;  Svo  xetvh  yepovls; 
l.rpwvzp.evot  (Zpvov  avov  xnto  itXexlats  xa.Xvta.to-t 
KexXtf/.evot  rotyju  rui  ipvXXtvui  eyyvQt  S'avhtv 
Kith  ra.ra.iv  yetpotv  ad  Xylols,,  rot  xa.XaAt<rnoi, 
Tot  xa.Xafj.oi,  rayxto-rpa,  ra.  ipvxtoevla.  re  XrjSx, 
Ogu.eta.1,  x'lplot,  xa.t  ex  <r%otvuiv  XaSvptvfloi, 
MrjptvSot,  xcua,  re,  yeguiv  8 W 'epno-iLa.cn  Xepto;. 
Hep'iev  ras  xe$a.Xa,s  (poppo;  /Spa^u;,  etpalx,  nrtXot, 
Ouhs  rote  ccXteucriv  o  ita.i  ifovo;,  ovlo;  o  itXovlo;. 

On  the  7th  the  wind  continued  to  blow  violently  against  us,  and 
as  there  appeared  little  hopes  of  its  ceasing  for  some  days,  we 
quitted  our  miserable  abode,  and  returned  to  Mesaloggion ;  which 
we  again  quitted  on  the  9th,  and  attempted  to  steer  for  Ithaca,  but 
we  were  driven  on  the  Eleian  coast,  and  landed  at  a  rocky  cape. 
This  promontory  is  called  Konopeli,  on  the  summit  of  which  are  some 
imperfect  remains  of  an  ancient  castle,  or  perhaps  the  acropolis  of  a 
town  which  was  in  the  plain.  A  tepid  stream  of  clear  water  gurgles 
from  the  foot  of  a  rock,  and  almost  immediately  enters  the  sea. 

The  view  from  Konopeli  overlooks  an  extensive  plain,  in  which 
we  saw  some  flocks  of  sheep. 

We  quitted  this  place  the  next  day,  but  the  wind  still  continuing 
unfavourable,  we  passed  the  night  at  sea,  and,  the  next  morning  at 

1  Idyl.  2  1 .  v.  6.  et  seq. 

Two  ancient  fishers  in  a  straw-thatcht  shed, 
Leaves  were  their  walls,  and  sea-weed  was  their  bed, 
Reclin'd  their  weary  limbs ;  hard  by  were  laid 
Baskets,  and  all  their  implements  of  trade, 
Rods,  hooks,  and  lines  compos'd  of  stout  horse-hairs, 
And  nets  of  various  sorts,  and  various  snares, 
The  seine,  the  cast-net,  and  the  wicker  maze, 
To  waste  the  watery  tribes  a  thousand  ways  : 
A  crazy  boat  was  drawn  upon  a  plauk. 
Mats  were  their  pillow,  wove  of  oziers  dank. 
Skins,  caps,  and  rugged  coats  a  covering  made : 
This  was  their  wealth,  their  labour,  and  their  Irade. 

Fawkes's  translation.  ■ 

3n  2 


460  PALAIO  KASTRO  IN  ELEIA. 

an  early  hour,  landed  on  the  island  of  Ithaca,  below  the  fountain  of 
Arethusa,  and  walked  over  the  mountain  to  Bathy,  the  capital, 
where  we  were  hospitably  lodged  in  the  house  of  the  English  consul. 

After  remaining  about  a  week  at  Ithaca,  I  quitted  it  on  the  19th, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Raikes ;  Mr.  Gell  returned  to  Patra. 

The  captain  of  the  thieves  advised  us  to  take  some  of  his  men  as 
far  as  Santa  Maura,  as  the  canal  between  that  island  and  the  Acar- 
nanian  coast  was  infested  by  pirates.  We  were  accordingly  accom- 
panied by  some  of  his  fellows,  who  excited  at  once  our  horror 
and  our  surprise  by  the  narrative  of  their  predatory  expeditions  on 
the  coast.  When  they  perceived  that  their  conversation  produced 
aversion  and  became  quite  repugnant  to  our  feelings,  they  did  not 
desist,  but  persevered,  with  a  sort  of  malignant  pleasure,  in  recount- 
ing their  numerous  and  horrible  crimes. 

On  arriving  safe  at  Santa  Maura,  we  were  happy  in  dismissing 
our  guard. 

Having  remained  here  a  day,  we  set  sail  on  the  21st  for  Corfu,  and 
found  the  wind,  as  usual,  quite  contrary.  We  accordingly  passed 
the  night  in  the  church  of  Saint  Nicolo,  which  is  situated  in  a  small 
deserted  island,  probably  the  same  on  which  there  was  formerly  a 
temple  of  Venus.1 

The  next  morning,  the  22d,  we  proceeded  to  the  neighbouring 
town  of  Prebeza,  in  the  ancient  territory  of  Cassopaea,  and  passed 
the  night  in  our  boat. 

On  the  23d  the  wind  was  more  favourable,  and  we  sailed  for 
Corfu.  We  had  always  been  told  that  the  canal  of  Corfu  was  dan- 
gerous, and  very  rough  in  tempestuous  winds.  We,  indeed,  could 
bear  palpable  testimony  to  the  truth  of  this  information ;  for  our 
little  boat  was  tossed  about  in  a  most  extraordinary  manner.  The 
wind,  which  had  for  some  days  blown  from  the  north,  had  now 
changed ;  but  the  sea  still  continued  its  motion  from  the  north;  and 
though  the  wind  was  strong  in  our  favour,  we  made  very  little  way, 


'  Dionvs.  Halicam,  b.  1.  c.  SI. 


DANGER  OF  THE  VOYAGE  TO  CORFU.  46 1 

as  the  current  was  contrary.  Homer'  seems  to  allude  to  this  cir- 
cumstance, which  occurs  frequently  in  the  Archipelago  when  the 
wind  changes  suddenly. 

O,;  $'  ayepoi  8vo  novhv  ogivslov  t^voevltx, 
Boperjs  xxi  Zitpu^o;  -fui  ts  ©prjx^sy  ayhy 
EAfloi'T  sfavmi;'  a.[i.u$i;  Ss  rs  xvficc  xsXouvov 
KogSuslou,  itoXXoy  8e  ita.%£%  aXa  ipvxo;  s%evot.v. 

"  As,  from  its  cloudy  dungeon  issuing  forth, 
A  double  tempest  of  the  west  and  north 
Swells  o'er  the  sea,  from  Thracia's  frozen  shore, 
Heaps  waves  on  waves,  and  bids  tli'  iEgean  roar, 
This  way  and  that  the  boiling  deeps  are  tost."  2 

The  wind  raged  so  furiously,  and  the  waves  were  thrown  into  such 
broken  masses,  that  we  expected  every  moment  to  be  lost.  Our 
sailors  appeared  to  feel  their  danger  as  much  as  ourselves  ;  and  lost 
their  presence  of  mind.  Nothing  can  be  more  gloomy  to  a  lands- 
man in  a  small  open  boat  than  a  storm  of  wind ;  and  I  felt  inclined 
to  say,  with  Ovid,' 

"  Demite  naufragium,  mors  mihi  munus  erit." 

"We,  however,  arrived  safe  at  Corfu,  and  congratulated  ourselves  on 
the  escape  we  had  experienced. 

We  remained  for  some  weeks  in  this  beautiful  island,  where  we 
received  the  utmost  kindness  and  hospitality  from  our  minister,  Mr. 
Fores  ti. 

Mr.  Raikes  here  separated  from  me,  to  my  great  regret ;  as  he  was 
unwilling  to  lose  the  opportunity  of  embarking  in  a  frigate  which 
was  sailing  for  England.  I  was  detained  at  Corfu  by  ill  health  until 
the  l6th  of  May,  when  we  set  sail  for  Messina  in  a  Russian  armed 
brig  named  Letun.  We  landed  at  Messina  on  the  20th,  and  re- 
mained here  for  some  time,  in  expectation  of  a  vessel  to  take  us  to 
Civita  Vecchia.     In  the  mean  time  Mr.  Mackenzie  arrived,  after 


1  Iliad,  9.  v.  4.  et  seq.  *  Pope.  3  Trist.  b.  1.  v.  52. 


462  LEAVE  MESSINA. 

having  finished  his  tour  in  Greece ;  and  being  desirous  of  visiting 
the  few  parts  of  Italy  which  were  then  accessible  to  the  English  tra- 
veller, he  accompanied  me  to  Civita  Vecchia.  It  is  with  the  deepest 
regret  that  I  recal  to  mind  the  many  amiable  qualities  of  that 
accomplished  and  classical  traveller,  who  is  now  no  more. 


TO  CIVITA  VECCHIA. 


On  the  12th  of  August  we  set  sail  in  a  merchant  vessel  of  Trieste, 
named  U  Redivivo.  We  steered  by  the  Lipari  Islands,  and  at  night 
saw  the  curious  effect  of  the  burning  volcano  at  the  island  of  Strom- 
boli.  The  vicinity  exhibits  another  insular  rock  called  Stromboletto. 
We  were  becalmed  for  some  days  in  sight  of  these  islands,  and  in  the 
day-time  only  distinguished  the  smoke  from  the  volcano,  though  the 
flame  was  visible  in  the  night.  During  our  voyage  we  caught  se- 
veral turtles.  While  the  weather  is  excessively  hot,  and  the  sea 
perfectly  tranquil,  the  turtles  come  to  the  surface  of  the  water  to 
bask  in  the  sun,  and  fall  asleep.  They  are  seen  at  a  considerable 
distance,  like  a  speck  upon  the  smooth  surface  of  the  sea  :  the  boat 
is  then  put  out,  and  the  sailors  row  as  gently  as  possible  towards 
the  turtle,  in  order  not  to  disturb  its  slumbers.  One  of  the  men  then 
catches  hold  of  one  of  the  hinder  fins  of  the  animal,  and  pulls  it  into 
the  boat,  turning  it  on  its  back,  and  thereby  rendering  it  perfectly 
helpless,  as  Oppian '  beautifully  expresses  : 


1  Halieutick?,  b.  .5.  v.  392. 


TURTLES  AND  NAUTILI.  463 

But,  should  some  artist,  resolutely  brave, 
Surprise  him  paddling  o'er  the  foamy  wave, 
With  vig'rous  jerk  invest  his  horny  chine, 
And  lift  the  concave  to  the  skies  supine ; 
Sailing  aloft,  he  writhes  his  legs  in  vain 
In  empty  air,  and  struggles  in  the  main. 

Sometimes  the  turtles  are  awakened  by  the  approach  of  the  boat, 
when  they  immediately  dive,  and  are  seen  no  more.  The  largest 
which  we  took  weighed  twenty-five  pounds  ;  they  are  of  the  hawk- 
bill  kind :  we  found  them  far  inferior  to  the  Indian  turtle.  It  is 
necessary  to  be  extremely  cautious  to  avoid  its  bite,  which  inflicts  a 
dreadful  wound.     This  circumstance  is  also  alluded  to  by  Oppian.1 

On  earth,  the  tortoise,  crouch'd  beneath  his  shield, 
Skulks  inoffensive  on  his  native  field  ; 
But,  when  his  brother  of  the  seas  appears, 
The  stoutest  heart,  with  just  discretion,  fears. 

In  the  dull  hours  of  calm  we  had  full  time  to  amuse  ourselves  by 
contemplating  the  other  productions  of  the  sea ;  but  the  most  curious 
of  these  were  the  small  nautili,  with  which  the  sea  was  in  a  manner 
speckled,  gracefully  moving  on  a  surface  as  smooth  as  glass,  with 
their  sails  fully  extended,  to  catch  the  almost  imperceptible  breeze 
by  which  they  were  impelled.  We  caught  many  of  them  ;  but  none 
were  more  than  an  inch  in  length,  though,  when  their  sails  are  ex- 
panded, they  appear  double  that  size.  Their  shell  is  of  a  soft  carti- 
laginous substance ;  and  the  sailors  eat  them  entire,  and  undressed. 
I  am  not  certain  Avhether  these  are  a  distinct  species  from  those  of 
a  larger  kind,  found  in  the  southern  seas,  the  shells  of  which  are 
hard.  The  beautiful  lines  of  Oppian1  are  so  minutely  descriptive  of 
this  wonderful  little  fish,  that  they  may  serve  as  a  regular  mono- 
graphy  of  it  without  any  further  addition. 


'  B.  5.  v.  2.5.  s  B.  1 .  v.  338.  NavliKog . 


464  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  NAUTILUS. 

Sail  fish  in  secret  silent  depths  reside, 
In  shape  and  nature  to  the  preke  allied ; 
Close  to  their  concave  shells  their  bodies  wrap, 
Avoid  the  waves,  and  ev'ry  storm  escape. 
But,  not  to  mirksome  depths  alone  conrin'd, 
When  pleasing  calms  have  still'd  the  sighing  wind, 
Curious  to  know  what  seas  above  contain, 
They  leave  the  dark  recesses  of  the  main. 
Now,  wanton,  to  the  changing  surface  haste, 
View  the  clear  skies,  and  the  pure  welkin  taste. 
But  slow  they  cautious  rise;  and  prudent  fear 
The  upper  region  of  the  wat'ry  sphere. 
Backward  they  mount ;  and,  as  the  stream  o'erflows, 
Their  convex  shells  to  pressing  floods  oppose. 
Conscious  they  know  that,  should  they  forward  move, 
O'erwhelming  waves  would  sink  them  from  above, 
Fill  the  void  space,  and  with  the  rushing  weight 
Force  down  th'  inconstants  to  their  former  seat. 
When  first  arriv'd  they  feel  the  strongest  blast, 
They  lie  supine,  and  skim  the  liquid  waste. 
These  nat'ral  barks  outdo  all  human  art 
When  skilful  floaters  play  the  sailor's  part. 
Two  feet  they  upward  raise,  and  steady  keep ; 
These  are  the  masts  and  rigging  of  the  ship ; 
A  membrane  stretch'd  between  supplies  the  sail, 
Bends  from  the  masts,  and  swells  before  the  gale. 
Two  other  feet  hang  paddling  on  each  side, 
And  serve  for  oars  to  row,  and  helm  to  guide. 
Tis  thus  they  sail,  pleas'd  with  the  wanton  game ; 
The  fish  the  sailor,  and  the  ship  the  same : 
But,  when  the  swimmers  dread  some  danger  near, 
The  sportive  pleasure  yields  to  stronger  fear ; 
No  more  they  wanton  drive  before  the  blasts, 
But  strike  their  sails,  and  bring  down  all  the  masts. 
The  rolling  waves  their  sinking  shells  o'erflow, 
And  dash  them  down  again  to  sands  below. ' 

We  had  also  an  opportunity  of  contemplating  the  singular  cha- 
racteristic of  the  pilot-fish,  which  delights  in  swimming  before  ships. 

'  J.  Jones,  translat.  Oxford,  1722. 


PILOT  FISH.  465 

Nine  of  these  preceded  us  for  several  days,  and  swam  close  under  the 
prow  of  the  vessel;  and,  although  we  wounded  two  of  them  with  a 
spear,  they  would  not  change  their  direction,  but  merely  swam  deeper, 
and  still  attended  our  course.  We  caught  one  which  measured 
thirteen  inches  in  length,  and  eight  in  circumference :  it  was  beauti- 
fully striped  with  the  most  vivid  blue,  approaching  to  green.  These 
colours,  however,  soon  lost  their  brightness  after  the  fish  was  taken. 
Its  flesh  is  extremely  delicate.  We  lost  sight  of  them  when  we  ap- 
proached the  coast,  for  they  are  seen  only  in  deep  water. 

He1  the  deep  seas  prefers  to  noisy  straights 
Who  for  the  distant  ship  impatient  waits, 
The  friendly  pilot-fish,  who  joyful  views 
The  well-rigg'd  bark,  and  ev'ry  sail  pursues ; 
Around  the  wanton  shoals,  in  order,  move, 
And  frisking  gaze  on  him  who  steers  above : 
Eager  press  on,  nor  will  be  left  behind, 
Tho'  the  full  sails  swell,  bloated  with  the  wind. 
You'd  think  the  captives  chain'd  to  ev'ry  ship, 
And  drawn  unwilling  through  the  ruffling  deep,  &c. 

So  they,  while  no  approaching  shores  displease, 
Swim  with  the  ship,  tumultuous  o'er  the  seas ; 
But  when  they  conscious  scent  the  coming  shore, 
Averse,  they  court  the  sailors'  look  no  more ; 
Avoid  the  nearer  land,  and  hie  again 
With  equal  haste,  to  the  unbounded  main. 
Pilots  observe  the  sign,  and  know  the  coast 
Draws  nigh  when  they  perceive  their  comrades  lost. 

As  we  approached  the  coast  of  Naples,  we  saw  the  island  of 
Capri  at  the  entrance  of  its  gulf,  and  beyond  it  Vesuvius  emitting 
a  thin  white  smoke.  We  descried  the  mountains  of  Sorento, 
Cape  Misenum,  and  the  neighbouring  islands.  We  also  enjoyed 
one  singular  point  of  view,  that  is  not  to  be  equalled  in  any  other 


1  Oppian's  Halieuticks,  b.  1.  v.  186.     J.  Jones's  translation. 
VOL.  II.  5  o 


466  EXTRAORDINARY  VIEW  OF  THREE  VOLCANOS. 

part  of  the  globe;  we  distinguished,  from  the  same  spot,  the  three 
active  volcanos  of  JEtna,  Stromboli,  and  Vesuvius,  all  smoking  at 
the  same  time,  and  impressing  our  minds  with  the  awful  reflection 
that  the  vast  furnace  by  which  those  mighty  craters  are  supplied 
with  their  ignited  matter,  has  probably  its  deep  abyss  beneath  the 
sea  upon  whose  surface  we  were  then  sailing. 

As  we  approached  the  Roman  coast,  we  discerned  the  mountains 
of  Gaeta  and  Terracina,  with  the  islands  of  Mai- Ventre,  Vente  Tene, 
Gianuto,  Ponza,  and  Palmarola.  We  sailed  within  a  few  miles  of 
the  Pontine  marshes,  and  saw  the  abrupt  and  rocky  Mount  Circaei, 
rising  like  an  island  from  the  sea.  We  descried  its  pointed  summit, 
which  is  occupied  by  the  remains  of  the  temple  of  Circe,  while  the 
site  of  the  Cyclopian  walls  of  Circoei  was  easily  distinguished  on 
a  lower  part  of  the  ridge.  Some  large  caves  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  also  attracted  our  notice,  and  excited  a  strong  desire  to 
land,  but  we  were  no  longer  on  the  shores  of  Greece,  and  did  not 
venture  to  approach  a  coast  which  was  jealously  guarded  by  the 
French,  who  would  have  punished  with  summary  severity  the  sus- 
pected intrusion  of  an  English  traveller.  We  sailed  by  the  low  and 
dreary  coast  of  the  Pontine  marshes,  covered  with  a  hot  and  hazy 
mist,  exhaling  pestilence  and  death  on  the  miserable  and  perfidious 
race  of  semibarbarian  banditti,  who  thinly  people  the  inhospitable 
vicinity. 

On  the  25th  we  entered  the  port  of  Civita-Vecchia ;  and,  as  we 
came  from  Sicily,  were  obliged  to  perform  quarantine  before  we 
were  permitted  to  land.  But  as  that  island  was  exempt  from  any 
symptoms  of  the  plague,  the  quarantine  was  clearly  political. 

On  entering  the  port  Ave  were  struck  with  surprise  on  observing 
the  French  and  Papal  flags  united,  and  waving  together  on  the 
castle.  For,  although  we  knew  that  the  French  had  some  troops  at 
Rome,  we  had  understood  that  Civita-Vecchia  was  still  free.  The 
occupation  indeed  of  this  place  by  the  French  had  only  happened 
a  tew  weeks  before  our  arrival.  Our  ship  sailed  the  next  day  for 
Leghorn,  and  we  were  left  to  perform  a  quarantine  of  twenty-one 


IMPRISONMENT  AT  CIVITA  VECCHIA.  4G7 

days,  in  a  miserable  boat  covered  with  an  awning  to  protect  us 
from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the  pestiferous  dews  of  the 
night.  Two  sailors  were  put  in  quarantine  with  us,  to  watch  us  and 
get  our  provisions  from  the  health  office.  We  were  disgusted  with 
the  abandoned,  revolting,  and  blasphemous  behaviour  of  these  mis- 
creants, who  were  far  less  civilised,  and  much  more  wicked  than  our 
late  companions  the  thieves  of  Ithaca. 

When  our  quarantine  had  expired,  and  we  were  landed  at  the 
health  office,  we  were  informed  that  the  French  general,  who  was 
commander  of  the  place,  desired  to  see  us.  A  soldier  accompanied 
us  to  his  house.  He  received  us  abruptly,  and  demanded  what 
business  brought  us  to  Civita  Vecchia  ?  Mr.  Mackenzie  answered 
that  he  came  to  inspect  the  antiquities  of  Rome ;  and  I  told  him  that 
I  came  according  to  my  parole,  to  surrender  myself  prisoner  of  war, 
as  my  leave  of  absence  was  nearly  expired.  I  accordingly  produced 
my  papers  and  passports,  in  which  all  the  requisite  formalities  had 
been  observed.  He,  however,  refused  to  look  at  them;  and,  in  an 
insulting  and  enraged  tone  of  voice,  said,  "  Les  Anglois  ne  maintien- 
nent pas  ainsi la  parole;  c'est  impossible  !  Comment!  vous  venez  de 
la  Sicile  vous  constituer  prisonnier  de  guerre  I"  Then,  turning  to  one 
of  his  officers,  he  said,  w  conduisez  ces  Messieurs  au  chateau."  We 
were  immediately  hurried  by  the  soldiers  to  the  castle,  where  each  of 
us  were  put  into  a  separate  dungeon.  Some  condemned  convicts,  who 
were  to  be  shot  the  next  day,  were  removed  that  we  might  become 
the  tenants  of  their  gloomy  abodes.  The  dungeon  was  an  arched 
chamber,  eight  feet  square,  in  which  all  the  furniture  consisted  only 
of  a  bed  of  straw.  The  smell  which  arose  from  a  sink  was  into- 
lerable ;  and  the  myriads  of  fleas  and  bugs,  and  other  insects, 
rendered  our  prospect  truly  deplorable.  After  we  had  remained 
there  from  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  until  five  in  the  evening, 
the  general  visited  each  of  us  separately  in  our  cells,  and  at 
length  condescended  to  examine  my  papers ;  when,  finding 
that  I  was  perfectly  correct,  and  that  I  had  really  returned  to 
fulfil  my  engagement,  he  seemed  evidently  ashamed   of  his    late 

3o2 


46'8  FRIENDLY  CONDUCT  OF  SOME  FRENCH  ARTISTS. 

intemperate  conduct,  and  outrageous  incivilities.  He  immediately 
gave  us  permission  to  lodge  in  the  town,  which  he  took  our  paroles 
not  to  quit  before  he  received  an  answer,  respecting  our  fate, 
from  the  general  en  chef,  who  was  at  Albano  near  Rome.  But  he 
told  us  plainly  he  thought  Ave  should  be  sent  to  Verdun,  which  was 
the  depot  of  the  English  detenus.  In  the  mean  time,  I  wrote  to 
Mons.  Granet,  a  French  painter  of  great  celebrity,  who  was  esta- 
blished at  Rome,  and  whose  friendship  I  had  the  advantage  of  pos- 
sessing before  I  went  to  Greece.  I  laid  before  him  our  critical  situa- 
tion ;  and  begged  of  him  to  make  interest  with  the  general,  in  order 
to  obtain  permission  for  us  to  reside  at  Rome  instead  of  Verdun. 

This  excellent  Frenchman  happened,  fortunately  for  us,  to  be  on 
a  footing  of  intimacy  with  the  general;  and,  immediately  on  the  re- 
ceipt of  my  letter,  he  set  out  for  Albano,  which  he  did  not  quit 
until  his  urgent  importunities  had  prevailed  upon  the  general  to 
permit  us  to  remain  at  Rome  under  the  guarantee  of  Mons.  Granet 
himself,  and  of  Messrs.  Dupaty  and  Paulin  du  Quelar,  both  artists 
of  great  eminence  and  superior  talents  ;  to  whose  kindness,  and  par- 
ticularly to  that  of  Mons.  Granet,  I  feel  a  weight  of  obligation  that 
I  can  never  repay,  but  which  will  never  be  effaced  from  my  recollec- 
tion. This  part  of  my  narrative  affords  me  an  opportunity,  which  I 
have  eagerly  embraced,  of  thus  publicly  acknowledging  their  friendly 
services,  and  of  commemorating  their  generous  conduct  towards  an 
individual  of  a  country  with  whom  their  government  was  then  at 
war.  This  is  not  designed  as  a  mere  verbal  compliment;  it  is  an 
expression  of  grateful  feeling,  and  a  tribute  of  the  heart.  Mons. 
Lechevalier,  the  learned  author  of  the  topography  of  Troy,  and 
Count  Annoni  of  Milan,  are  also  particularly  entitled  to  the  testi- 
mony of  my  warmest  gratitude  and  my  sincerest  regard.  It  was 
through  the  intercession  of  Mons.  Lechevalier  that  I  obtained  per- 
mission to  travel  in  Greece  on  my  parole ;  while  Count  Annoni, 
with  a  degree  of  disinterested  confidence  that  is  not  often  expe- 
rienced, became  responsible  for  my  return,  and  rendered  unnecessary 
the  deposit  of  a  large  sum  of  money  which  I  must  otherwise  have 


CONCLUSION  OF  MY  TOUR  IN  GREECE.  469 

made.  The  commencement  of  my  journey^  was  thus  owing  to  their 
friendly  offices,  and  they  will,  I  trust,  permit  me  to  add,  that  I  con- 
sider all  the  knowledge,  either  of  ancient  or  of  modern  Greece,  which 
I  acquired  in  the  interval  of  my  tour,  as  having  been  achieved  under 
their  favourable  auspices ;  as  I  do  the  happy  termination  of  it  to 
Mons.  Granet.  To  them  I  accordingly  inscribe  my  work ;  and  it  is 
my  earnest  wish  that  it  may  record  our  friendship  when  the  shades 
of  the  long  night  shall  have  closed  over  our  remains  ! 

As  soon  as  the  order  for  our  release  arrived  at  Civita-Vecchia,  the 
general  called  upon  us ;  and,  as  if  to  make  amends  for  his  late  insult- 
ing conduct,  invited  us  to  dinner ;  and  we  were  not  sorry  that  he  thus 
gave  us  an  opportunity  of  declining  any  civility  from  a  man  from 
whom  we  had  so  lately  received  such  accumulated  indignities. 

On  the  18th  of  September,  we  set  out  from  Civita-Vecchia,  and 
arrived  at  Rome  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  Sign.  Pomardi  returned 
to  the  bosom  of  his  family,  and  I  to  my  antiquarian  and  literary  pur- 
suits ;  while  Mr.  Mackenzie  occupied  himself  with  all  the  zeal  which 
distinguished  that  accomplished  traveller,  in  examining  the  ruins  of 
the  once  mighty  capital  of  the  Roman  empire,  and  in  appreciating 
its  departed  greatness  by  its  still  existing  monuments. 


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APPENDIX. 


Examples  of  the  different  ways  adopted  by  modern  Authors  of  writing 

Greek  and  Turkish  f fords. 


Agha,     Aga.     Haga. 
AIL     Aly. 
Aspra.     Asper. 


B. 


Balanites.     Balania.     Valania.     Vallonia.     Vellania,     Velanede.     Valanedes. 

Bazar.     Bazaar.     Basar.     Bazard. 

Beglerbcg.     Beghilerbeg. 

Berath.     Barat. 

Beyram.     Beiram.     Bairam.     Biram.     Bairan      Bayram. 

Bostangi.     Bostandjy. 


C 

Cadi.     Cady.     Cadhi.     Cadee.     Kadi.     Qadhy.     Qadi. 
Caliuah.     Cahveh. 
Capigi      Capizi. 

Capoudan.     Capadun.     Kapudan.     Capudan. 
Charem.     Harem.     Kharem.     Haram. 

Courann.     Kouran      Qoran.     Koran.      Kourann.     Coran.      El-Kour-ann.      Al-Coran. 
Alcoran. 


472  APPENDIX. 


D. 


Derbene.     Derbeni.     Dervene.     Dervent.     Derbend. 
Derwisch.     Dervish.     Dervich.     Dervis.     Derveish.     Dervise. 

Djeamy.     Dgiami.     Djami.     Giame.     Jawm.     Jawmy. 

Djowr.     Giaour.     Ghiaur. 

Dragoman.     Drogman.     Druggerman.     Drogueman.     Druggoman. 


E. 

Efendy.     Effendi. 

F. 

Fakir.     Fakeer. 

Ferman.     Fermahn.     Fermaun.     Firman.     Firhman. 


G. 


Grand  Signior.     Seignor.     Signor. 


H. 


Hana.     Hanna.     Hna.     Alcanna.     Henna. 
Hassan.     Assan.     Hhazan. 
Hossain.     Hussein.     Houssain. 


Ibrahim.     Ybrahym.     Ybrahim.     Ebrahim.     Ipraim. 
Imam.     Imaum. 


Janissary.    Jannissary.     Genitzeri.    Janizary.     Genizari.     Janitzary. 


APPENDIX. 


473 


K. 

Kaaba.     Koubbe.     Caaba.     Caabah.     Cabah. 

Kairavan.      Karavan.      Keruan.      Kervan.      Caravan.      Cairavan.     Cairvan.     Kiarvan. 

Cairoan.     Chieruan. 
Kalybia.     Kalybe.     Calivia.     Callivia. 
Karavan- Seray.     Kiarvanserai.     Caravan- Seray.     Caravanstrai.     Caravanserael.     Cara- 

vasaria.     Caravansarai.     Chieruan-Serai.     Kervan-Serai'.     Caravanserail.    Caravas- 

serail. 
Kalbaz.     Halbaz. 
Kalpak.     Kalpaki.     Kolpak. 
Kangiar.     Hangjar. 
Khan.     Khann.     Kam.     Kan.     Ham.     Hann.     Han.     Kalian.    Kann.    Can.    Ghan. 

Chan. 
Keblah.     Kebleh.     Kibleh. 
Khaviar.     Caviar. 
Kharadjh.     Caratch.     Karadj.     Haratch.     Caratsch.     Haratsch.     Harache.     Karado-e. 

Gharaz.     Caratge. 
Khodjea  Baschy.     Khodge  Bashi.     Codja  Bashee.     Codja  Baschi.     x°^a^va-clS- 
Kiosque.     Keoschk.     Chiosk.     Kiosc.     Kiosk.     Chiosque.     Kioch. 
Kislar  Aghassy.     Kisher  Aga.     Kizlar  Haga.     Kuzlir.     Kislah.     Chislar.     Keslar. 

M. 

Maharab.     Mirabe.     Mehreb.     Mehereb. 

Menar.     Menareh.     Menaret.     Minaret.     Minareh. 

Mohammed.      Mohhammed.     Mohamed.      Mouhamed.      Mouhhammed.      Mehemmed. 

Mahomed      Mahomet.    Mahumet.    Mehemet.    Muamed.    Mohammet.    Muchumet. 

Machomet.     Moamed.     Mahomcth.' 
Mosque.      Mosck.      Mosch.      Mesged.       Mesgida.      Masgiad.      Mesquita,      Mesdjid. 

Mosquo.     Mosco.     Messita.     Meszita.     Meschit.     Moschea. 
Mouphty.     Mufti.     Mofti.     Moufti. 
Moustapha.     Mustapha.     Mustafa. 

Muezzinn.     Muezinn.     Muzzein.     El  Mudden.     Mesin.     Muezin. 
Musulman.     Mussulman.     Musselman.     Mussliminn.     Moslem.     Muselman. 


O. 


Ocque.     Oke.     Oque.     Oka. 
Othman.     Othoman.     Ottoman. 


1  About  the  different  wiji  of  writing  this  word,  see  Joan.  Leunclavius,  Pandect.  Hist.  Turcic.  p.  451.  Paris  Edit. 
VOL.   II.  3   P 


474  APPENDIX. 


Padishah.     Padischah.     Padcha. 
Papas.     Pappas. 
Para.     Parat.     Parah.     Perau. 

Pascha.     Pasha.     Pacha.     Pascia.     Passa.     Pashaw.    Bassa.    Bascha.    Bacha.    Basha. 
Bashaw. 


R. 


Raki.     Rackee.     Araki.     Arraki.     Arrak.     Arrack. 
Ramazan.     Ramadan.     Ramadhan      Aramazan. 


S. 

Sali.     Salih.     Salik.     Salique. 
Sardar.     Serdar. 
Seraskier.     Serasker. 

Sheik.      Schick.      Shaik.      Scheik.      Scheykh.      Sheikh.      Sheick.      Shekh.      Cheykh, 
Sheih.     Chaik.     Cheke.     Cheiek.     Cheik.  •   Cheyk. 


T. 

Tatar.     Tattar.     Tartar. 
Tchiboukchis.     Chibouque  gee. 
Tchiflik.     Chifflik.     Tchifflick.     Tschiftlik. 
Tekkie.     Tekie.     Teke.     Teckeh. 


Vezir.     Vazir.     Vizir.     Vizire.     Vizier. 

Voivode.     Vaivode.     Vaivonda.     Waiwode.     Waywode.     Woivode.     Voevoda.     Wat* 
vode.     Vaywood.     Vaivoda.     fiotfSortias. 


APPENDIX. 


475 


NAMES  OF  PLACES. 


Ancient  Name*. 


Alpheios. 
Amorgos. 


Andros. 
Olearos. 


Kuparisseai. 

Ambracia. 

Acheloos. 

Athenai. 

Aulon. 


Sicyon. 


Adersi.     Diadersi. 

Alfeo.     Rophea.     Ropheo.     Orphea.     Carbon. 

Amorgo.     Morgo.     Murgo. 

Ampelachi.      Ambelakia.     Ampelakia.     Ambelaki.     Amphilochia. 

Ambelaka.     Amblachi. 
Ampelo  Kepous.     Ambelo  Kipo.     Angelo  Kepos. 
Anatoliko.     Anatolico.     Natolico.     Anafoliko.     Nathaligo.      Na- 

talico. 
Andros.     Andro.     Andre. 
Angistri.     Anchestri.     Anchistre. 
Antiparos.     Antiparo.     Andiparo.     Antiparis. 
Andpaxo.     Andipaxo.     Antipascu.    Antipaxio.    Antipaxou.     An- 

tipaxu. 
Arakoba.     Aracova.     Aracovia.      Aracovi.     Arachovi.      Rhacovi, 

Racova.     Arracoba. 
ArcadTa.     Arkadia.     Larcadia. 
Armiro.     Almiro. 
Arta.     Larta.     Narda. 
Aspropotamos.     Aspri. 
Athena.     Adiene.    Settines.    Athinai.    Sethine.    Atine.     Sethyna. 

Setines.     Sediina.     Sadna.     Sadne. 
Aulona.     Aulon.     Avlona.     Albona.     Valona. 

Bari.     Vari.     Vary.     Bare. 

Barnaba.     Phurnaba. 

Basilica.     Basdico.     Basilika.     Bisilio.     Vasiliko. 

3  p  2 


476 


APPENDIX. 


Ancient  Names. 


Pherai. 


iEgion. 


Ithome. 
Bouthroton. 

Klaros. 

Sunium. 

Cythera. 


Chios. 

Echinades. 

Trcezen. 

Nesso. 
Daulia. 

Delos. 

Asteris. 

Drepanon. 
Dyrrachion. 
Ambry sos. 

/Egina. 
Euboea. 

Eleusis. 

Epidauros. 

Thespeia. 


Belistin.     Velistino.     Velestin.     Velstin. 

Bodronitza.     Bodinitza.     Mendinitza. 

Bolos.     Volo.     Golo.     Golos.     Bolo.     Vollo.      Vola.     Volos. 

Bostitza.     Vostinizza.     Vestizza.     Vostitza.      Vostyza.     Bostitzan. 

Bostizan.      Boziza.      Yisdtza.      Vostica.      Vostiza.      Vistiza. 

Volstiche.     Wosdtza.     Vostizza.    Bontitzes  and  Boziza  by  the 

Byzantine  Hist. 
Braona.     Vraona.     Vrana.     Vourna.     Vronna.     Urona. 
Brusi.     Bruso.     Vrisi. 

Bulcano.     Vulcano.     Bourkano.     Vourkano.     Grebegin. 
Butrinto.     Butronto.     Bucintro.     Bothrentos. 

Calamo.     Callemeno.     Calimne.     Calmine.     Calimno. 
Capo  Colonna.     Colonnais.     Collonna.     Coloni. 


Cerigo. 


Tzerigo.     Serigo. 


Chelmos.     Chalmos.     Chialmos. 

Chimarra.     Chimara.     Chimera.     Chimsera. 

Chio.     Sio.     Cio.     Scio.     Kio. 

Clemontzi.     Clemouzzi. 

Ciu-zolari.     Cursolari.     Cozulari.     Curzoli.     Curzola. 


Corzola. 


Damala.     Thamala.     Pleda. 

Daukli.     Dowclu. 

Daulia.     Daulea.     DaUa.     Doulla.     Daulia.     Thavlia.     Thaulia. 

Daulier. 
Delis.     Sdilles.     Stile.      Sdiles.     Sdili.      Sdille.     Lisdelis.     Dili. 

Sidili. 
Didaskalo.     Didaskalio.     Daskallio.     Didaskali.     Mathetorio. 
Dragomestra.     Dragomeste. 

Drapane.     Drapani.     Drapana.     Trapani.     Drapano. 
Durazzo.     Duraz. 
Dystomo.     Distomo.     Thistomo.     Distoma. 

Egina.     Engia.     Eyina.     Legina.     Egino. 

Egripos.     Egribos.     Negroponte.      Necropons.      Egrippos.      Ne- 

grepont.     Nigi-oponte.     Negropont. 
Eleuslna.     Lepsina.     Salina.     Lefsina.     Leusina. 
Elimos.     Elimbos. 

Epidaura.     Pidaura.     Pithavra.     Epi-tliauro.     Thithavra. 
Erakle.     Ierake. 
Eremo-Kastro.     Rimocastri. 


APPENDIX. 


477 


Ancient  Names. 

Island  of  Patroclus. 


Hymettos. 


Hydrea. 

Ikaria. 

Imbros. 


Psyra. 

Lamia. 

Lissa. 

Kos. 

Ithaca. 


Gyaros. 

Samikon. 

Thisbe. 


Chaeroneia. 


Gaitharonesi.  Gaidaronesi.  Ghaedaronisi.  Garderonis.  Gaitro- 
nisi.     Guidronisi.     Gaydaronisi.     Guidronisa.     Ebanonisi. 

Galaxidi.  Galaxy.  Galazithi.  Gallixithiura.  Galatzida.  Ga- 
lizithi. 

Gastouni.     Gastuni.     Gastumi.     Gastugni. 

Gephyra.     Gepheri.     Euphere.     Sapheri.     Repheri.     Sateri. 

Gimoba.     Dgimova. 

Himetto.  Imetto.  Monte  Matto.  Trelo  Bouno.  Trelo  Vuna. 
Dehli  Dag. 

Idra.     Hydre.     Iero.     Gerao. 
Ikaria.     Nikaria. 

Imbro.     Lembro.     Embaro.     Embrio.     Ibro. 
Ioannina.     Ianina.     lannina.     Yanina.     Iohannina. 
Iotaco.     Iathaco.     Ataco. 
Ipsera.     Psara.     Pissera. 
Isdin.     Izdin. 
Issa.     Hissa. 

Istanko.     Stanko.     Stankio.     Stanchio.     Stineo. 
Ithaca.      Itaca.       Ithace.      Thiaci.      Thiaki.      Teaki.      Itache. 
Theake.     Val  di  Compare.     Val  di  Compagno. 

Jura.     Joura.     Jero.     Trava.     Caloiro.     Stapodia.     Stenosa. 

Kaiaffa.     Chaiapa. 

Kakingra.     Katchingri. 

Kakosia.     Kakosi.     Cacocio.     Cacoosi.     Cacosio. 

Kalabrita.     Calavrita.     Kalavritta.     Kalabruta.     Calabryta.     Ca- 

laverta. 
Kalamata.     Calamata.     Calamatha. 
Kalenge.     Kalentze. 
Kamenitza.     Mamminizza. 
Kapandriti.     Kapandritti.     Cassandritti. 

Kapoiirna.     Caprena.     Capranu.     Kaprena.     Kapraina.    Caprea. 
Kara.     Chara. 

Karitena.     Caritena.     Garithena.     Guarythena.     Kariteni. 
Karotto.     Charia. 
Kasha.      Casha.     Caschia.      Chasha.     Cassia.      Kassia.      Cacha. 

Chashaw.     Chasia.     Chaszia. 
Kateniska.     Kutunska. 


478 


APPENDIX. 


Ancient  Names. 

Kephalenia. 

Kephissia. 

Kerata. 


Platsea. 
Salamis. 

Korkura. 

Korinthos. 
Koron. 


Mycenae. 


Kephalenia.     Cephalenia.     Cephalonia.     Cefalonia.     Cephalogfia, 

Kefalonia.     Cephalonie. 
Kephissia.     Kephesia.     Kevisia.      Kifischa.      Kephsa.      Cephisia 

Kephisia.     Cephissias.     Cevrisha. 
Kerata.     Gerate. 

Kineta.     Carneta.     Canetto.     Canetta. 
Kitres.     Kitriai.     Chitres. 

Klarentza.     Chiarenza.     Glarentza.     Clarence. 
Kleisura.     Kleisoura.     Klissura.     Klissoura.     Clessura. 
Kokla.     Kokle. 

Koloura.     Coulouri.     Colouri.     Culoro.     Culuri. 
Kondoura.     Kondura.     Koundouri. 

Korkura.    Kerkura.    Corfu.    Corfou.    Korfoi.    Corfunium.    Gurfo. 
Konopeli.     Conopoli. 
Corinto.     Coritho.     Corytho. 
Koron.     Coron.     Corron. 
Koukoubaones.     Koukouvaones.     Kakuvies.     Koukoubages.     Ca- 

covaones.     Koukouvanes.     Koukoubanes. 
Krabate.     Krabata.     Karvathy.     Carvato.     Carvati. 
Krousalades.     Konrtsakadia.     Krusala.     Kropia. 


Larissa. 
Lemnos, 


Pharos. 

Leukadia. 

Lebadeia. 

Lykouria. 
Kenaion. 


Lafani.     Lanlo. 
Larissa.     Larsa. 
Legrina.     Lagriona.     Alegrina. 
Lemno.     Limio.     Stalimene.     Stalimini.     Limni. 
Leondari.     Londari.     Lundari.     Liontari.     Lontari. 
Leontaria.     Leontarium.     Leondario.     Leontari. 
Lesienska.     Liessanska. 

Lessina.     Lesina.     Lezina.     Lessine.     Liesena. 
Leukadia.     Lefcathia.     Leucadia.     Lefcada.    Leukada. 
Libadea.     Livadia.     Livadi.     Lividia.     Bodia. 
Libadostro.     Livadostro.     Livadosta.     Licia  d'Ostro. 
Ligourio.     Lycurio. 
Lithada.     Litor.     Litar.     Canaia. 
Longanlko.     Longaliko. 


Leondary. 


Lafkadha. 


Helena. 

Manteneia. 

Marathon. 


Maffoula.     Mangoola. 
Makriplai.     Macriplayi. 
Makronesi.      Makronnesi.      Macrisi. 
Goriza.     Mundi.      Palaiopoli. 
Marathona.     Marasona. 


Makronisi. 


APPENDIX. 


479 


Ancient  Names. 

Messene. 


Megara. 
Meloa. 


Mykonos. 


Nauplia. 


Pylos. 

Naxos. 

Naupaktos. 

Nisyros. 

Rhamnos. 
Parnes. 


Paros. 
Patmos. 
Patrai. 
Paxos. 

Pentelikon. 


Pharsalia. 

Evenos. 

Phyle. 


Masi.     Mazi. 

Mauromati.     Mavromati.     Mavrommati.     Mamertia.      Martagia. 

Mavromathi.     Mosseniga. 
Mexiaboula.     Amaxiapola. 
Megara.     Megra.     Mazarino.     Mazarine. 
Melos.     Melo.     Milo.     Miloni.     Mylos. 
Mesalossion.     Messaloffgion.     Mesolongi. 

on  oo  o 


Missolongi. 
Messalongia. 


Messo- 

Messa- 


lonia.       Mesalossi.      Messalungia. 

Oct  O 

longi.     Massa-Longi.     Mesalungia. 
Mikonos.     Micone.     Micole.     Micoli.     Michono.     Micheno. 
Miraka.     Miraca.     Miracca. 
Mistra.     Misitlira.     Misistra.     Misitra.     Misastra.    Mestra.    My- 

sethra.     Mizythra.     Mesithra.     Mysithra.     Mistira. 
Moulki. .   Mould.     Moulchi.     Mulchy.     Molci.     Mutchi. 

Nauplia.  Naplia.  Napoli.  Neapoli.  Napoly.  Napolis.  Ana- 
pli.  Anaboli.  Anaplium.  Napoli  di  Romania.  Napolo  della 
Rumilia. 

Navarlno.     Avarin. 

Naxos.  Naxia.  Nasso.  Naxo.  Axia.  Nicsia.  Nixia.  Nixcia. 
Nixsia.     Naxis. 

Nepaktos.     Epactos.     Lepanto.     Nepalko.     Lepanthe.     Hipacto. 

Nisara.     Nizaria. 

Obrio-Kastro.     Abrio.     Ebreo.     Orio.     Stauro. 
Ozia.     Ozea.     Nozea.     Noezaea.     Nochea. 

Padischah.     Padischa.     Patksia.     Patisia.     Patissa. 

Parga.     Perga. 

Paros.     Pario.      Paro.      Paris. 

Patmos.     Pathmos.     Patino.     Palmosa.     Palmossa.     Patimo. 

Patra.     Patras.      Patrass.     Patrasso. 

Paxos.     Paxo.     Pascu.     Pachsu.     Paxou.     Paxu. 

Pelagnisi.     Pelagisi.     Lene. 

Pentelico.     Pendele.     Pentheli.     Medelli.     Mendele.     Mendeli. 

Petrokeriiki.      Petroieraki.       Petrojeraki.       Petrogeraki.       Petro- 

rieraki.     Patroyracke. 
Pharsala.     Pharsa.     Farsa.     Ferselles.     Phersala. 
Phidari.     Fidari.     Lafidari. 
Philio- Castro.       Biglia-Castro.      Viglia- Castro.      Phylio- Castro. 

Phula-Castro.     Buglatourre.     Phulatourre.     Phulakastron. 


480 

Ancient  Names. 

Prote. 

Epidauros. 


Leucadia. 
Belbina. 

Thessalonika. 

Sason. 

Sciathos. 

Skillaion. 


Helike. 
Seriphos. 

Siphnos. 

Skopelos. 

Orchomenos. 

Salona. 

Kos. 

Sybota. 

Atalante. 

Tenos. 

Cythnos. 
Thebai. 

Thorikos. 


APPENDIX. 


Piada.     Piatha.     Epiada.     Epi-yatha. 

Piperi.     Piper. 

Preb&sa.     Prevesa.     Prevenza.     Presbesa.     Prevexa. 

Prodeno.     Pruodo. 


Ragusa.     Ragusi.     Rausa. 
Raphti.     Raphei.     Raphte. 
Romeiko.     Romaiko. 


San  Tarin.     Santorini. 


D'Arbore.     Al- 


Sant  'Eirene.     Sant  'Irene.     Sant  'Erini. 

Santa  Maura.     Santamerion. 

Saint  Giorgio  d'Albora.     D'Albori.    D'Arbori. 

bara.     Capello  Cardinale. 
Salonika.     Salonica.     Salonicha.     Salonichi. 

Samatrachi.  Samandraki.  Samotrachi.  Samandrachi.  Samothrace. 
Saso.     Sasso.     Saseno.     Sassena.     Sassino. 
Sciatho.     Sciathi.     Sciatta. 

Cape  Scilli.     Scylli.     Scylle.     Sylla.     Skilli.     Skyllo. 
Scimitari.     Skimitari.     Skemata. 
Seraquino.     Serachino. 
Sergiani.     Sirgiani.      Siriani.      Syriani.     Suriane. 

liani.     Cyrianee.     Kyriani. 
Seriphos.     Seripho.     Serifo.     Serfo.     Serphino. 

phene.     Sorphena.     Serfou. 
Sialisi.     Slialishi.     Salesi. 
Siphanto.     Siphano.     Sifanto.     Sifanno. 
Skar  manga.     Skarmagga.     Skaramagga. 
Scopelo.     Scoppelo.     Scopeli.     Scogli. 
Screpu.     Scripoo.     Scripo. 
Spalato. 

Stankio.     Stanchio.     Stancho. 
Sibota.     Sivita. 


Cyriani.     Sa- 
Serphena.    Ser- 


Sifana. 
Scaramanga. 


Skripou. 
Spalatro. 

Stancou. 
Sybota. 


Stango. 


Stantio. 


Talandi.     Talanti.     Talati.     Talanda. 

Talando.     Talanda.     Talandi.     Thalanta.     Thalanda. 

Tenos.     Tinos.     Teno.     Tina.     Tene.     Tino.     Titte. 

Tetale.     Gerale. 

Thermia.     Phermina.     Fermia.     Fermenia. 

Thiba.     Thivac.     Tiva.     Thyava.     Stives.     Stiva.     Stibas. 

tibas.     Stibes.     Thiva. 
Thorikos.     Thoriko.     Theriko.     Torico. 


APPENDIX. 


481 


Ancient  Names. 


Helicon. 

Zakunthos. 

Iadara. 

Ceos. 

Lamia. 


Karpathos. 
Syros. 


Tragones.     Trakones.     Trakonis.     Traconi.     Drakona. 
Tripolitza.      Tripolizza.      Tripolitzia.      Tarapolitza.      Tripolissa. 
Tripoliza. 

Zagara.     Sagara. 

Zakunthos.     Zantho.     Zante.     Zant.     Zanthe.     Zatchytho. 

Zara.     Zahara. 

Zea.     Zia.     Zya. 

Zietun.      Zeitun.      Zeituni.      Zeitoun.     Zeiton.     Ziton.      Zoitun. 

Zeitune.    Zitton.     Siton.    Zeitum.     Zetoun.    Giton.     Zeithon. 

Zetun.     Zituni.     Zuttuma.     Sitoun. 
Zerfanto.     Scarpanto. 
Zyra.     Sira.     Syro.     Syrie.     Zira. 


VOL.   II. 


Sq 


482  APPENDIX. 


PRINCIPAL  VILLAGES  IN  CEPHALLENIA. 


Andillko.     Argostoli.     Asso.     Aterra. 

Basilikades.     Blakata.     Blakochori.     Borgo. 

Catolico. 

Dangata.     Dilinata. 

Griphi. 

Kardakata.     Komitata.     Konbalata. 

Licouri.     Logorata. 

MakrotTcha.     Markopoulata.     Metaxata.     Migmes. 

PalaiochSri.     Pesada.     Pilaro. 

Same.     Scala. 

Taphio.     Tinea. 

Vescovado. 


APPENDIX.  48S 


VILLAGES  IN  ZAKUNTHOS. 


Abelo.     Agala.     Agios  Demetrios.     Aiglio.     Anaphonitra. 

Banato.     Betusi.     Bolamo.     Braka.     Burato. 

Chieri.     Chiliemeno. 

Draka. 

Fassa.     Fragaki. 

Gagi.     Gaitagni.     Galaro.     Gerakarla. 

Kallipados.      Kambi.      Karadedi.       Katastari.       Koukies.       Koukounaria.      Kukieso. 
Kusaki. 

Lagadachia.     Lagopodi.     Litakia.     Luka. 

Makerada.     Maries.     Mousaki. 

Ortagnes.     Oxoch5ra. 

Pesenonda.     Pigadachia.     Phiollti.     Plemonario. 

Romlri. 

Sant'  Andrea.     Sant'  Antonio.     San  Leone.     Sarakinado.     Skalikado.     Spiliotisa. 


3q2 


484 


APPENDIX. 


VILLAGES  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  LIBADEA. 


Agia  Marina 
Amos  Blasios 
Agios  Demetrios 
Agios  Georgios 
Arabochori 


Beli 

Belitza 

Branexi 

Choumpago 

Dadi 

DaulTa 

Distomo 

Eleuta 
Exarchos 

Gephura 
Gorianes 
Granitza 

Kakosia 

Kalainata 

Kalamos 


Distance  from 
Libadea. 

Hours. 

Ancient  Names. 

6 

Ruins  of  an  ancient  city. 

3 
c2 

Panopeus. 

Near  Orcliomenos. 

S 

24 

2' 

8 

Tithoraia. 

3 

9 

Ruins  of  a  town  on  the  north  foot  of  Parnassos 

5 

Daulia. 

Ambry  sos. 

6 

Elateia. 

6 

* 

H 

Near  Orchomenos. 

2 

1 

Above  Libadea 

9 

Thisbe. 

2 

22 

APPENDIX. 


48.0 


Kalkouki 

Kapantriti 

Kapourna 

Karakouseini 

Karamousa 

Karia  -  - 

Kasnesi      -  -  - 

Katzikabeli    -  -         - 

Kostia 

Koukoura 

Kouroupi 

Koutoiimoiila 

Kuriaki 

Malta 
Mamoura 
Martinou 
Mauromati   - 
Mera 
Merali 

Miagi  -  -  - 

Moliibi 
Moulchi 
Mpeskeni 
Mpismpardi 

Mpraamagha,  or  Ibrahim 
Agha 

Nesi  -  -  - 

Nteo-li 


Petromagoula 

Pou  mar  i 


Distance  from 
Libadea. 

Hours. 
15 
24 

2 

3 
5 
3 

6 
4 
8 
5 
1 
3 
H 


2  i 
8 
14 

2^ 

6 

4 

3 

1 

5 

4 


Raches 

Komaiko 


Ancient  Names 


Chasroneia. 


On  Mount  Edylion. 
Near  Thespeia. 

On  Mount  Helicon. 


Between  Panopeus  anil  Daulis. 


Pronounced  Beskeni. 
Pronounced  Bisbardi. 

Pronounced  Bramagha. 


3  Pronounced  Tegli 


3  In  the  plain  of  Chaeroneia 


1  Ruins  on  the  way  to  Thebes. 

2  i    Near  Orchomenos. 


486 


APPENDIX 


Skimitari 
Skripou 
Soulinari   - 
Stebenikou 
Stiri 

Tzamala 

Tziberi 

Tzitzira 

Ziritzi    - 


Distances  from 
Libadeu. 


Hours 

13 

2i 

3 

4 


Orchomenos. 


Stiris. 


Ancient  Names. 


APPENDIX. 


487 


VILLAGES  IN   THE  DISTRICT  OF  SALONA. 


Agia  Euphenna 
Agios  Georgios. 
Agorgiani. 
Arakoba. 

Bargiani. 
Bounichora. 

Chlomo. 

Desphina. 

Galaxkli 

Glunistas. 

Gouritza. 

Hieropigadi. 

Kamara. 

Karoutes. 

Kasteli. 

Kastri 

Kolobades. 

Kalopetenitza 

Kouski. 

Krisso 

Liakoura 
Loidoriki. 

Maurolithiiri. 
Modi. 

Penteorykia. 

Segritza. 

Sergouni. 

Sternikaiki. 


Ancient  Names. 

Ruins  of  a  city. 


Ruins  of  a  city. 


Delphi. 

Krissa 

On  Parnassos. 


Topolia. 


488 


APPENDIX. 


VILLAGES  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  THEBES. 


] 

3ialai  ccs   from 

'J  licbcs. 

Agia  Triada 

Hours. 
4 

Ancient  > 

Agios  Elias 

- 

4 

Pronounced  Aielia. 

Agios  Joannes 
Agios  Theodoros     - 

- 

1 

I 
U 

Pronounced  Aiyanni. 

Archontisi 

1 

i 

I', 

Bathu 

6 

Aulis  on  the  Euripos ;  p 

Dendra 

_ 

8 

Dilosi 

- 

5 

Dobrena 

- 

8 

Near  Thisbe. 

Dramisi 

- 

5 

Eremo-Kastro 

- 

3 

Near  Thespeia. 

Kakonisiri 

_ 

8 

Kakosalisi 

- 

6 

On  the  way  to  Athens. 

Kala 

- 

6 

Kalzi 

- 

1 

Kapareli 

- 

<>> 

Karata 

- 

5 

Kazoula 

- 

3 

Kokla 

- 

3 

Near  Plataea. 

Korora 

- 

8 

Leuka 
Likourisi 

- 

3 

i: 

i    Thespeia. 

Maylanon 

- 

1         H 

Another  Maylanon 

- 

2| 

Mauromati 

- 

3 

Masarasi 

- 

li 

Mazi     - 

- 

6 

Near  Haliartos. 

Megalo  Moulchi 

- 

4 

On  the  way  to  Libadea 

Megale  Panama 

- 

7 

APPENDIX. 


489 


Milosi 

Morixi 

Morokambi 

Mpagla 

Mpoumpouka 

Mustaphades 

Neochori 

Pahkala 

Paltzal 

Parapounga 

Pharmaka 

Phloka 

Piri 

Platania 

Platoxotisa 

Pouga 

Pyrgo 

Rastamitis 

Sakani 

Salisi 

Samari 

Samiita  monastery 

Sengena 

Sirge 

Skoulixi 

Skourta 

Spaides 

Taki 

Tapolia 

Tateza 

Zagara 

Zaraga  monastery 

Zeronomi 

Zoaga 

VOL.  II. 


Distances  frum 
Tliebes. 


Hours. 

4 

u 

n 

4 


6 

1; 

2; 
3 


6 
2! 


2| 
li 

2 

4 

5 

2' 

1 

8 

21 


Ancient  Names. 


8 
5 
6 


Near  Lake  Hylika. 

Pronounced  Bagla. 
Pronounced  Boubouka. 


On  the  foot  of  Helicon. 


Near  the  Lake  of  Hylika. 
On  the  way  to  Athens. 


Near  Lake   Kopias,   at    the  foot  of  Mount 
Talanda. 


3  R 


490 


APPENDIX. 


VILLAGES  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  ZETOUN. 


Distances  from 

Zetoun. 

Hours. 

Ancient  Names. 

Agia  Marina 

- 

24 

On  the  gulf  towards  Echinos 

Agios  Theodoros 

- 

8 

Akladi 

- 

6 

Alamana 

- 

1* 

Alpospita 

- 

2 

Aulachi     - 

- 

2 

Bardates 

_ 

2 

Bechi 

1* 

Daitza 

_ 

3 

T 

Damasta 

- 

3 

Delplrinos 

- 

4 

Ruins. 

Dibri 

- 

4 

Drako-spilia 

- 

5 

On  Mount  Oeta. 

Dristella 

- 

6 

Ruins. 

Duobouna 

- 

5 

On  Mount  Oeta. 

Echinos 

_ 

5 

Echinos. 

Eleutherochori 

- 

4 

On  Mount  Oeta. 

Emirbey 

- 

H 

Gardiki 

Kaingarditchi 
Koma 


APPENDIX. 


491 


Komaritza 

Kombotades 

Kostalexi 

Limogarda 
Longitza 

Makra  Libado 
Masch  allah 
Megalo  Brusi 
Moskochori 
Mustapha  Bey 

Neropolis 
Nikoba 

Phrangi 
Ptelio 

Rakes 


Distances  from 
Zetoun. 


Hours. 
4 
2 
2^ 

5 
5 

6 
8 
1 

2 

2^ 

5 
6 


Ancient  Names. 


Ruins. 

Beyond  Echinos. 

Ancient  sepulchres. 
On  Mount  Oeta. 

On  the  way  to  Bolos. 


Sapona 

_ 

8 

Sarmosakli 

- 

lb 

Sklitrachi 

- 

5 

Sobala 

- 

6 

Solaki 

H 

Spartia 

- 

6 

Stillda 

- 

3 

Tarratza 

. 

I 

Tichobaulates 

- 

H 

Ruins,  on  the  gulf,  in  the  way  to  Echinos. 


There  are  other  villages  in  this  district  which  are  very  small,  and  some  of  them  are 
abandoned. 


3  R  2 


492  APPENDIX. 


MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS  AT  PRESENT  USED  IN 

ATTICA. 


The  lyre  is  nearly  shaped  like  a  mandoline,  and  about  the  same  size.  It  has  three 
strings,  and  is  played  upon  with  a  bow  like  a  violin.     The  sound  is  clear. 

The  lute  is  used  chiefly  in  the  islands :  it  is  larger  than  the  lyre ;  has  eight  strings,  and 
is  played  upon  with  a  quill.  Its  form  is  nearly  that  of  a  guitar.  Its  modern  name  is 
Aaywltv. 

The  bagpipe  is  not  common;  it  is  called  2xXo]?a/xiroi/vo. 

The  tamboura  has  the  body  about  the  same  shape  and  size  as  a  mandoline,  but  its 
handle  is  much  longer.  It  has  only  two  wire  strings,  and  is  called  rehab  by  the  Turks. 
It  may  be  the  <popfuy%  of  Homer. 

The  monochord  is  nearly  of  the  same  form,  but  has  only  one  wire  string,  whence  its 
name.  It  may  be  easily  conceived  that  Apollo  himself  could  not  draw  melody  from  such 
an  instrument.  It  is  very  uncommon.  This  instrument  is  mentioned  by  Ptoleruaeus 
Harmonicor.  b.  2.  c.  12.  p.  157. 

A  long  pipe,  which  the  Turks  use  in  their  bands,  is  called  Kapa^oua-a  or  ?ou,ava;.  Its 
sound  is  remarkably  shrill  and  loud. 

Another  long  pipe  is  named  Avaxa/Jij,  and  a  smaller  one  itoyiepa.. 

The  Athenian  shepherds  use  a  small  pipe,  the  MovauAoy, 2  from  which  they  draw  the 
sweetest  sounds. 


Which,  according  to  Pliny,  Nat.  Hist,  b   7.  c.  56.  was  invented  by  Pan. 


APPENDIX.  493 

The  shepherds  and  country  people  are  fond  of  the  pipe  of  Pan,  which  has  generally 
twelve  reeds,  and  is  called  2uf iy£  or  Sufiyyo.  by  the  Greeks,  and  Neith  by  the  Turks :  but 
according  to  Pietro  della  Valle, '  it  is  named  Syrinx  by  the  former  and  Muscat  by  the 
latter.  It  was  anciently  formed  of  seven  unequal  Jistulce,-  and  sometimes  of  nine,  as  we  see 
in  Theocritus, 3  who  calls  it  CYveoupuivov. 

The  tambour  de  basque  is  particularly  used  by  the  dancing  derwisches  in  their  reli- 
gious ceremonies.     Its  Turkish  name  is  Da'ire. 

The  Turks  have  the  large  drum,  and  another  of  a  small  kind,  being  hemispheres  of 
bronze  covered  with  a  skin. 

They  have  also  cymbals,  but  I  never  saw  them  used  in  Greece. 


1  Viaggi  in  Turchia,  Lettera  2.  16U.  '  Virgil,  Eclog.  3.  v.  36.  '  Uy\.  b.  8.  v.  18. 


494  APPENDIX. 


WEIGHTS  AND  MONEY  IN  GREECE. 


An  ocque  is  two  pounds  and  three  quarters,  or  400  drachms. 

A  measure  is  five  ocques  and  a  half. 

A  cantar  is  forty  ocques. 

A  quintal  is  forty-four. 

A  kilo  of  grain  is  an  English  bushel. 

Eight  kilo  and  a  half  make  a  quarter  of  wheat. 

The  milliara  grossa  is  1000  great  pound  weight  of  Venetian  measure;  2220  of  these 
pounds  form  an  English  ton. 


An  aspra  is  half  a  para. 

Forty  paras  make  a  Turkish  piaster,  which  is  about  one  shilling  and  seven  pence  English, 
but  its  value  varies  according  to  the  exchange. 

A  purse,  which  is  called  pouggi  in  Turkish,  is  500  piasters. 

About  other  Turkish  money  Leunclavius1  may  be  consulted. 

1  Pandect.  Hist.  Turcic.  p.  404.     Paris  edit. 


APPENDIX.  495 


ATHENIAN  FRUIT  AND  VEGETABLES. 


Grapes,  several  varieties.  The  nymph  Staphyla  having  been  changed  into  a  vine,  gave 
it  her  name,  which  it  still  retains. 

Figs  of  various  kinds.  Pliny l  names  twenty-nine  different  kinds  of  figs,  and  prefers  those 
of  Chios. 

The  Athenian  figs  were  always  celebrated.  Athenaeus'  asserts  that  Antiphanes,  in  his 
praise  of  Attica,  says  that  its  figs  were  the  best  in  the  world.  The  first  figs,  which  are  ripe 
early  in  June,  are  scarce  and  not  good,  and  give  fevers. s  The  second  crop  of  figs  is  ex- 
tremely plentiful,  and  they  are  brought  in  large  baskets  to  the  bazar  the  beginning  of 
August.  The  figtree  retains  the  name  of  the  nymph  Psyca,  who  was  changed  into  that 
tree. 

Melons,  many  varieties. 

Water  melons,  extremely  common  and  feverish.  Its  modern  Greek  name  is  angoaria. 
It  is  the  cucurbita  citrullus. 

Peaches  are  ripe  the  middle  of  August. 

Plums,  red,  white,  and  yellow,  several  varieties. 

Apricots. 

Mulberries,  scarce  but  excellent.  They  grow  at  Cephissia,  and  are  seldom  sold  in  the 
bazar,  but  sent  as  presents. 

1  Nat.  Hist.  b.  15.  c.  18.  *  Deipnos.  b.  3.  c.  2.  '  See  Horace,  b.  1.  epist  7.  v.  5. 


496  APPENDIX. 

Cherries,  not  plentiful  nor  good. 

Strawberries,  indifferent  as  in  Italy. 

Pomegranates. 

Walnuts,  scarce. 

Quinces,  scarce. 

Almonds. 

Oranges,  lemons,  sweet  lemons,  citrons,  love  apples,  or  golden  apples. 

A  great  variety  of  gourds. 

Pears,  very  good  and  common  in  July  and  August. 

Apples,  not  common. 

In  the  mountains  there  are  wild  pears,  ay^to^kia.,  and  the  arbutus,  or  strawberry  tree,  the 
Av5fa%vij,  bearing  a  red  fruit,  larger  than  a  cherry,  and  called  cerasi  marini  by  the  Italians. 
They  are  good  to  eat,  but  extremely  aperient. 

Caroba.  The  xepxlia  of  Dioscorides,  and  Ktpwria  of  Theophrastus.  The  ceralonia  silt- 
qua  of  the  Latins;  now  called  Zutoxtpzltx. 

The  Sorbus,  or  service-tree,  now  called  Titfgipa;  the  gensole  of  the  Italians,  and  jujube  of 
the  French.     It  is  a  winter  fruit. 

A  gourd,  called  mariniani  by  the  Greeks  and  Italians,  and  mpamia  by  the  Turks. 
Eaten  boiled  as  a  vegetable. 

Mcldjana,  another  gourd  eaten  in  the  same  manner. 

Chestnuts  are  brought  from  the  Morea  and  Crete.  Those  of  Mount  Ida  are,  however, 
the  best. 

I  saw  no  raspberries,  gooseberries,  or  currants  in  Greece.  They  are  also  very  scarce  in 
Italy,  and  appear  to  be  the  produce  of  cooler  climates. 

Fruit  is  sold  by  weight  throughout  Turkey,  Persia,  and  Italy. 


APPENDIX.  497 


Cauliflower,  scarce. 

Cabbage. 

Lettuce,  of  various  kinds, 

Spinach. 

Celery. 

Small  artichokes. 

Several  kinds  of  beans. 

Lupines. 

Capers. 

Common  Mallows. 

Fennel. 

Parsley. 

Mint. 

Thyme. 

Onions. 

Gar  lick. 


VOL.  II.  5  S 


498  APPENDIX. 


PRICES  OF  SOME  ARTICLES  OF  CONSUMPTION  AT 
ATHENS  BY  THE  OCQUE. 


Paras. 

Oil 26 

Wine 7 

Raw  cotton    25 

Nitre  25    of  second  purification. 

Grapes    2 

Hymettos  honey    30 

Bread 10 

Cheese    13 

Raw  wool  15 

Goat   14 

Lamb 16 

Flour       *£ 

Butter,  two  piasters. 

Red  die,  called  Pj^V    27| 

This  is  the  EgvUptSizvov  of  Dioscorides,  and  is  now  called  P<?afi,  or  aypiopi&pi,  the  same 
as  the  rubia  peregrina. 

Soap,  potash,  and  the  spirit  called  raki,  are  also  made  at  Athens.  Soap  is  sometimes 
made  from  the  lentiscus.     Lamp  oil  is  also  extracted  from  it ;  and  the  berries  form  a  part 

of  the  materia  medica.      There  are  in  Greece  four  different  kinds  of  the  lentiscus : the 

sckinos,  (Salvos);1  the  schiiws  aspros ;  the pixari;  and  the  votomos.  The  two  first  produce 
the  clear  mastic  tears,  (SxKpva),*  which  only  come  to  perfection  in  the  island  of  Chios, 
although  there  is  no  doubt  the  same  quality  might  be  produced  in  other  parts  of  Greece,  if 
the  cultivation  of  the  tree  was  attended  to  with  that  care  and  attention  which  is  practised 
in  Chios. 

The  votomos  is  the  largest  kind  of  lentiscus,  and  the  only  one  bearing  berries  ;  it  resembles 
the  wild  lentiscus,  and  produces  very  little  mastic.  The  pixari  produces  the  greatest  quan- 
tity of  gum ;  but  it  is  soft,  and  not  clear.  The  lentiscus  is  an  evergreen ;  it  flowers  in 
March,  and  the  gum  is  gathered  in  September.     The  Greeks  imagine,  and  not  without 

1  Theopbrastus,  Hist.  Plant,  b.  9.  c.  1 .  »  Ibid. 


APPENDTX.  499 

reason,  that  its  use  makes  the  breath  sweet,  and  keeps  the  teeth  clean ;  but  they  generally 
masticate  it  more  as  an  idle  pastime,  like  the  turning  of  their  beads,  than  from  any  great 
attention  to  its  utility.  It  was  known  to  the  ancients ;  and  those  who  used  it  were  termed 
Sxivolpwys?,  "  mastic  eaters,"  and  looked  upon  as  effeminate. ' 

Tooth-picks  made  from  its  wood  were  esteemed;  * 

The  lentiscus  was  used  in  the  ceremonies  of  the  Dictynnian  Diana  in  Crete.* 

Paras. 

Cretan  chestnuts 12 

Morea  ditto 8 

A  fine  turkey  100  The  turkeys  are  remarkably  fine  in  Greece, 

and  are  called  Frankopoula,  the  Frank's 
bird.     They  are  not  common. 

A  fine  fowl  20 

A  hare 40 

Cows'  milk  is  not  used  in  Greece,  but  only  that  of  sheep  and  goats. 

The  cheese  is  of  a  bad  and  pungent  quality,  and  the  butter  only  eatable  to  Turks  and 
Greeks. 

Geese  and  ducks  are  very  scarce  in  Greece.  The  pigeons  are  remarkably  fine  and 
plentiful. 

The  Athenian  pigeons  are  much  esteemed ;  they  still  retain  the  name  of  the  nymph 
Hepta-ipa,  who  was  metamorphosed  by  Cupid  into  that  bird. 

The  Tptyouvrj,  or  turtle  dove,  is  reckoned  a  great  delicacy  at  Athens;  it  lives  in  the  olive 
groves,  and  eats  the  ripe  olive. 

The  beccafico  is  plentiful  at  some  seasons  of  the  year,  and  is  a  favourite  dish.  It  is  the 
Motacilla  Ficedula,  and  is  called  by  the  modern  Greeks  Zuxopayij,  which  answers  to  its 
Italian  appellation. 

The  Turks  are  not  fond  of  game,  and  never  eat  hares.  Game  is  plentiful  in  Attica,  but 
there  are  few  sportsmen.  They  also  have  a  prejudice  against  eating  oysters  and  other 
shell-fish. 

•  Clemens  Alex.  Pted.  b.  3.  c.  3. 
■  Martial,  b.  3.  Epig.  82.  v.  9.     See  also  Columella,  5.  10.;  and  Dioscorid.  b.  I.e.  90. ;  and  Sonnini,  Voyage  en  Greece. 

i  Callimach.  Hymn,  in  Dianam. 

3s2 


500  APPENDIX, 


Specimen  of  a  modem  Greek  Letter  of  the  best  style,  written  by  the 
Archon,  John  Logotheti,  of  Libadea,  to  the  author. 


Tijv  svysviiav  vptuv,  ipyjivls;,  tptXtxuJ{  ir^otrxuvui. 

ex  AsfSaSla.;,  11  TsXis. 
X.apd(  ivXytrQev,  16  Ttavevyevs;  vfiuuv  xojj.itrdjj.evo;  ypappa,  SyXworav  jj.oi  Iyjv  upelsgav  SsotruiKprj  hv 

ivsylav,  xal  Iry  eitr  Id;  xXewatr  'AfJijvatr  erteXevtriv,  Iv  a.ur  Qsuipsvletr  Id  dpyoux  dyaXXeoSe.  sle  eyui 

«7riXi)<r3i)V(!(xai  ttuiitols  ly;  evyevela.tr  vpujv,  dxxd  xa)  Tte^  ditstriv,  uxr  trapstri  vosgcvtr  hlvyydvui,  xa) 

ovvev<pgalvoij.ai^lrjv  yd%   pela^v  ypcuv  tpiXlav,  ptfe  trvyyevsta,  /u.->j7e  xoivuvia  lealplSoe,  sis,   o   tpytrlv 

'Oft)jf0(r,   o^ijXiKtyj    epalsivt),    otrov   ojj.otolpoma,  xa)  loltr  uvloic  yaipew,  oitsp  fj.dXitrla.  K^yvvtn    ld<r 

tpiXiatr,  xa)   crlsppolkpa.tr  epyd^elai.      ditoleXsT^a,  &s  Irjtr  'sjj.<pul'jv,  xa)  evyevetrldlr^tr   vpcuv  SiaQstrewo- 

Ttstpvxe    16  [j.eyaXvvstv  Id  nap'  e\j.ov     a   xa.T  dtlxv,  -rtpayjlevla,  xai  la.  lXaJlw\J.ala,  wtr  itpolspy^j.ala 

sxQidgeiv.  TfpotrtptXslcr  ju.oi  Xiav  etrovlai  p.oi  di  elSrpsitr  vp.wv,  irspl  Is  Irjo-  evxlatatr  jj.oi  vfj.slspa.tr  vyisla.tr, 

rjtr  s'Sev  pot  spa.<rjj.iu}lspov,  xa.)  sitr  ito~.a.  p-spr)  xalsvQvv  fytrovlai  dt  obol  vp.uiv,  air  sTtsv-/o\j.ai  at'  spays 

ivlw/sitr  xdi  ditrlatr.  Xvt^pa.'  jut-Of  Itti  ovli  rt  ditstrla  hislivv  <p)Xuiv  a^luiv,  dXX'  vj  dvajj-vytritr  Irjtr  vy.els^ar 

toXviJ.uQsiatr,  =xa<  Itov  rUtav  ij  yXvxvltjtr,  eXaVstri  lrtv  dOvfj.lav,  xa)  itap^yopstri  hjv  trlspyjtrtv.  lavla  \j.ev 

sic    Is  tapovloo-.  Id  8s  sir)  v\j.tav  hrpav  tapd    6ss  td[j.toXXa,  xa)  truilrjgia.  sp'pwtrfts,  uitr  (fiXotovot 

fj.sXnrtra.1,  laexXexlx  trvvayovlstr  aVSea,  xai  Id,  ev  17,  talplh   atolajj.isv6iJ.evoi,  r\lvtrla  t^otrp-svovlstr  Istr 

XapM^str  trleqdvstr  lijr  7(laijtr  xa)  Irjtr  Sofatr,  xa.)  fj.vr/tj.ovavovleo'  xa)  ep.s  lb.  lrttr  vjj.elspa<r  avyevelatr. 

tp'iXs  xa)  JsAh, 

'Iwdvvs  AoyoQsfov. 
xdyui  i  ypatyatr  it^otrxvvtu  vixatr  xald  xp'sor. 


APPENDIX.  501 


TRANSLATION. 


Gentlemen, 

I  address  this  friendly  salutation  to  your  excellence 

From  Libadea,  22d  July. 

I  was  filled  with  delight  when  I  received  your  admirable  letter,  which  acquainted  me 
with  your  health,  that  has  been  providentially  preserved,  and  with  your  arrival  at  the  re- 
nowned Athens,  where  you  experience  so  much  transport  in  contemplating  the  antiquities.  I 
shall  never  forget  your  excellence ;  and,  though  you  are  absent,  my  mind  is  with  you  as  if 
you  were  present;  and  I  joy  in  your  joys.  The  friendship  between  us  was  not  caused  by 
the  ties  of  kindred,  or  of  country,  or  by  what  Homer  calls  g/x^ixjij  egeetetry,  "  the  vivifying 
parity  of  ae;e,"  so  much  as  by  a  sympathy  in  manners  and  in  pursuits,  by  which  friendships 
are  best  cemented,  and  arc  rendered  most  permanent.  Your  natural  goodness  makes  you 
magnify  my  services,  which  were  little,  compared  with  your  deserts ;  and  your  high-minded 
generosity  has  not  only  overlooked  my  defects,  but  has  elevated  them  into  virtues.  .Any 
intelligence  respecting  you  will  always  be  most  acceptable  to  me ;  and  your  health  will 
always  be  an  object  of  my  prayers.  Into  whatever  regions  your  travels  may  lead  you,  I 
supplicate  Heaven  that  they  may  be  happy  and  prosperous.  The  absence  of  friends,  whose 
worth  is  so  great,  is  to  me  truly  afflicting;  but  the  distress  is  alleviated,  and  the  privation 
lessened,  by  the  recollections  which  the  multiplicity  of  your  learning,  and  the  kindness  of 
your  manners,  have  left  behind. 

Thus  much  for  the  present.  May  God  bless  you  with  many  happy  years !  Be  wise, 
and,  as  the  toiling  bees,  collect  the  most  exquisite  sweets,  and  treasure  them  up  for  the 
benefit  of  your  country,  that  the  wreath  of  glory  may  hereafter  be  bound  around  your  brow. 
Nor  ever  forget  that  I  am  the  friend  and  the  servant  of  your  excellency. 

JOHN  LOGOTHETI. 

And  I  the  secretary  salute  you  as  my  duty  requires. 


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INSCRIPTIONS 


FIVE  INSCRIPTIONS  FROM  CORFU. 
No.  1. 

EAoEETAIAAIAiriP 

EENONEIMENTA2 
noAloSTHNKopKr 
PAIf>NcJ>IAI2TinNA 
OETAnpoTAOKPONAT 
TONKAIEKroNOTSEI 
MENAEAYT02IIA2 
KAMKIA2ErKTA2IN 
KAITAAAAATIMIAO 
2AKAITOI2AAAOI2 
nP0EEN0I2KAIETEP 
TETAI2rErPAnTAI 
TANAEnPoEENIAN 
TPA¥ANTA2EI2XAA 
KQMAANA0EMENO 
nEIKAAoKHnpoBOT 
AQI2KAinpoAIKoi2 
KAAO2EXEINT0N 
•  AETAMIANAOMENTO 

TENOMENON  AN  A  A  a  M  A 

^IAISTKINABEY 
APYAKPN 

Decree  of  hospitality  of  the  city  of  Corcyra,  in  favour  of  Philistion,  the  son  of  Theudoros 
of  Locris. 


506'  INSCRIPTIONS. 


No.  4. 

OAITABAION2AMATI2TA0EI2riAPA 

MA0OI2KENATPEKEIANI20IAn2F[ATPO2 

A0HNinNO2OTNTAOH2IKAHZETAI 

KAIMNA2EANATAA2ONOTNOMA00ITOT 

KAirNn©IMT0OT2OI22OOa2ETEPnETO 

AIMENTAK02MOT2EMNAKAIAIA2TEPON 

AI  .  .  .  .  ETANnXPOnONAIOEPOAPOMa 

KAITEQMOPONTEXNAN 

rPAMMAl2INIXNEYTEIPANETAAEIAOI 

KATElAOMHPOTAEATONA2ENinTTXAI2 

OninAANATA2E2TIAAPTIOTrON02 

KAIMHNI2AKAPNIATaNEnATPEKE2 

AA0ETAnANTaNE20AnNAPATOKAEO2 

NENAENAKMEKOTPONmnOPENTEXNAN 

ONHNEYN  TPOKONTAAH 

TnAAinnAEinNA2EIAnN0>AO2 
nO0EINO2AETOI2TANATnHAT0EX0ONA 

No.  5. 

CAMAXA-  PEKBE£DoyAAMEAEXIBATEaiM 
AAkMEDlADlEBE-kAKYAoyHu/PHXEnENH^C^XEl 
TA^T4MA  CENAni-^IMAPHC I  N  Kop  nyNXA 
LEI  CAMEA^X°yAMENEnETEPMEAoCEn  mENBEKH 
onAAu/MENT°IAAAnyPHNE  IECIAI  XTEnTE<yTA4 

The  inscription,  No.  5,  is  on  a  cornelian,  the  size  of  which  is  represented  above;  it  is  an 
abraxas,  and  is  unintelligible. 


INSCRIPTIONS.  507 


FROM  THE  RUINS  OF  DELPHI. 

No.  1. 

NO  *  A 
TOOAE AO 
n I  I  PAT  I  A 
IT ATHPA2 AEK A 
ENA  I  02 A  I  O I T  . 
AP AXMANO AE A0  2 . AT OHM . . . .A 

A. . ONE XA AKOT . AS A 
AEK AAPAXMANXAAKEOT 2 

A P I 2TOKPATH2 ANAPOMA.  ..A 
2TATHPA2AEKAENAOAEAOT2TETOPA2 

KOA02IMHO2TA2A2T  .  T  I  A  .  .  .  .OIK  .HANAIN 
TENOMENA2KAIME  .  ONETPO  .  .  A  .  2TATHPA2IIENTE 

*  . AATAA20PA2T02T0TA X0PI0T2T 

A  EKAOKTI2AP  AXMANO  AE  AOT2TETPO  A2XAAKE0N 

TOXMETAnflAHGENTflNTAnPOTA 

21 MTAI OTTOTArA0ONO2XOPlOT2 
AP AXMANO A EA0T2T  PE  I  2 

©E22 AA02T0T A . . . .0TX0PIOT2. 

2X  .  .  .  0N2T 

.  00  .  .  20  I KI A  . 

XHPIA. . . 2AirTAOTOIKHA22TATHPA2 
APAXMANOAEAOT2TPEI2  A 

P  I  20KPATH2TA2KAAA  .    .ENE020IKHA22TATHPA2nENTE 
APAXMAN0AEA0T2TPE  I  2 

SEN0AAM02TA2  .  EN0N02KAIAH2NAKA0IKHA22TATHPA2 
ATO  AP  AXMAN0AEA0NHMI0AEA0T2XAAKE0T2TET0PA2 

EX  INA  I  O  I  I  A2A  IHNAKAO I KHA22TATHPA2AEKAENA 

XAIP0AA2TA2IIEI2IAT0T#AEIAK020IKHA22TATHPAZ 
TPE  I2APAXMAN 


Most  of  the  letters  which  are  wanting  in  this  inscription,  have  been  anciently  obliterated. 


.  TETPOKON 

A  . 

. PAEMHKONTA 

A  . 

.  .  A  . ON  .  ENTE 

H  . 

•   •   • 

3  t  2 


508  INSCRIPTIONS. 


No.  2. 

CHMATOAHPnOCIIATHP 
nAPATAlCAEnTAAlClN 
nrOIKOCIAPTCENriAlAOSEm 
OGIMENOTPHTPOTnA 
AOTniNTTOIOKAIEC  faov  og  sriafo  xedeu  % 
vi«POTBIOTHCTTT0NO  tpcaflafuvoe 

No.  3. 

OTAAME022MAP  .  T 
P02XEIOrnOAYEENOTAIMNAIOT 
AIEOSMNASIAAIAAAMBPAKIOTAN 
2TANOTAEAOONTEAEMMOTEMMENIAA 
0ATMAKOTnT0IOl2EnElAHnAPA 

ME2EN  .  O  . .  2AMOIKTTONA2 
AN  . .  ETHPIA  .  NKAHENHTAIEN 
ArNAIA  .  .  TPAYAITAAOrMATATA 
NA.  AT  .  ArAIENnAPAAO2BIKA0O 

02INOr02ANHOT2IAT  .  IAINT20I 
.  NONT  .  . .  TEXNIT  .  NTONEI2I2M  .  N 
T2IEPOMNHMONA20IAN02INENTO 

MEIOIEN0HBAI2TnEPTOY 
OINONTONTE  .  ITO 

The  epsilon  in  No.  2  of  this  page  is  of  the  same  semicircular  form  as  the  sigma  in  the 
same  inscription. 


INSCRIPTIONS. 


509 


No.  4. 


kol  OTI  o^H^Y>^rtoM^ 
VA&To  D©Ao>  =  ftKltf  Tot) 


510  INSCRIPTIONS. 


No.  5. 


MN TlllQEa  ....  AEMIKEE  . OAO 

O  .  TOB  .  ENEAATEIAnEPITH2AM*I2BHTH2Ea2TH2AEA<inNnP02AM 
2  .  IXKA  .  irATnEPTnNOPnNnEPIHXOMErSITOSATTOKPATnPEKAETXEN 
MEKPElNAnAEONAK  .  2HKATEPflNAIAK0T2A2KAIE  .  .  NTJlNTOrmNrENOMENOXKAI 

TAMAOriNE  .  HXrA  .  nTHSATTO*IA2KAITHNAM*OTEPilNT*HrH2:iNnPOj: 
AEENTTXflNT0IXEISAn0AEIXINTEATTilNnP0*EP0MEN02AEnEINnNI  .  T 
HTHAnO$AS  .  nEPIETABON  .  .  E  .  ETHNTnOTilNIEPOMNHMONilNrENOMENENHNKPISIN 
HNMANI0TAKEIAI0TKAITH22TNKAHT0TN11M  .  HNHNI  .  AI0MEri2T02AT0KPATfiP 
nNMAAISTAKTPIANETHPH2EH2TNiiMOAOrH0HTATTHNEINAITHN 

TAIIOAAf2N02TO .  ENAEA$0I2EZE  .  N O ENKE 

NHNAPE2KEIKATATONnPOTiiNIEPOMNHMONi2N  .  I NATIO 

O  .  HTISErnNIIETPAEPXOrSArnEPKOIA  .  .  .  NHNX  .  .  AAP HNE2T 

BA  .   .  AT  •  TETOTMEXPITHSnPOEIPHMENHSKPHNHST  .  ITPO  .  .  I0T2A  .  I  i  .  AEA* 
THSKPHNH2TH2EAATEIA2EnEAIHO  .  .  .  T02A<I>OPI2MO  .  2H  ....  NE  ....  TIA 
NEINAIAPE  .  .  EIMEX  .  .  O  .  .  POTTOrnTOAXTPVBANTIAE  .  KAI  .  .  ENOTO 
9AAA22H   .   .  .  NilTPinOI2H  .  KEK0MMETAIENT0NnEAI0NEINAITH2IEPA2 
2T  .  M  .  .  ONEH  .  .  A .  TAETilNTMm2Eni0AAA22ANEINAIAEA#nN 

AKEINOTT  .  .  .  OTOXEITEAEIX0HMOIKA 

N02E3-AINE 


The  Greek  and  Latin  inscriptions,  marked  No.  5,  are  upon  the  same  face  of  a  block  of 
marble ;  the  Greek  on  the  left,  and  the  Latin  on  the  right  hand.  They  are  in  a  subter- 
raneous place,  in  an  inverted  position,  and  consequently  extremely  difficult  to  copy. 


INSCRIPTIONS.  511 


No.  5. 

lftNAEXK*YAOPMNAXT    .    .   .    AKON    ....   AMTN ON 

GAVIDIONIGRINOLEG  AVGPR  OPR 

DECRETAEXTABELLISRECITATAVIIDVSOCTOBRIS    .     .    VSIN  .  CUMOPTIMVSPRINCEPS 
IEROMNEMONVMQVACONSECRA  .  REGIONESAVLLO  .     .    .  TINOIEXAVCTORITATE 
DETERMINAVERVNTSEQVENDA  .    .     .  ESSEPRAESCRIPSISSETQVAEETIAMDELPHISINI  .  T  .  RE 
ETNEQVEVENIRETINDl^IVMINTERANTICYRENSESQVODVEETDELPHOSQVIBVS  .    .  DELPHI 
ABOPTIMOPRINCIPEEASENTENTIASTARIOPORTERENEQVEIAEVITDI  .  10  .  N  .  ORE  .  LOR 
TVSTAIEREI  .  OM  .  G  .  QUODETPOSSESSIOQVAE  .  DA  .    .  IS  .  VA  .  IAVERATETACONSVLAREO 
AEHEROMNEMONVMDETERMINATIONECONTINEBATVRVIXI  .    .  TNOTAEOPIERTEI  .  ORI 
VTRAQUEPARSADVTAIT  .  IEMSVA  .  .  ANSFEREBATOVMI .  .  VEEIINREPRAESENTISAEPIVSE  .  PIM 

QUA TIA  . .  IN  .  AVTEXINSTRVMENT .  QVAEEXSTABANTO  ....  POTERANTPIV  .  S  .  V  .  IEBV 

SEP . . .  ALMMIMEVISASAI .  .ICVMHIEPOMNEMONVMIVDICIOCONGRVERVNTOSENIE .  I .  VCOMPREHEND 

ETIAMSIVTRORVMQVEST EQVIDAPSCISVMESTIOTER ENVIDERIVTRISOVECONSVLTVMQVOD 

ERIM  .  .  EFIGIOOPTIMUSPRINCEPSCERTAPOSSESSIO  .  .  .  INEEITECONTINGITOPOENTMIXA  .  RIQV 
ANTICYRAMV  .     .  GI  .  O  .  AMPRIMAMDETERMINATIONEMHIEROMNEMONE  .  DETERMINAVERVNT 
EAMESSECONSTITVTOQVAENVNCABALIISOBVSABAI  .  .  .  ONEN  .  .  DICITVRPR  .  NTVRVMO 

ESTACIRRHAMG  .  RAI  .  .  .  LITIGANTIBVSCITRANOXAM ASAMVSISABEORECT 

GOREADMONTICVLVM  ....  ELLATOSACRA  .  OLOD TEMPLAHIEROMNEMON 

MONVMENTVMEXE ETQVODNATVRALES MONTICVLOEADIDE  .  EX 

DVORVMMINAE  .  BOO  .    .    .  INSCRIPTIOQVAE VMTERMINVM 

ADHVCMANENTIVETVSTASFIDEM  .  AOIATI MINSCRIPTIONE 

ASAEINESO  .  OE IANTADCENDENT 

VAOSACRAR  ....  DELPHORVMTABELLIS 
QVOD  .    .  VI  .  I  .  INDVBITAVSINTERDELPHOS 
D  .  DFLI  .  O  O 


512 


INSCRIPTIONS. 


FROM  THE  RUINS  OF  AMBRYSOS  IN  PHOCIS. 


TONMEHCTONKAIOEI 
OTATONATTOKPATOPAM 
ATPHAIONCEOTHPONAAEEANAPON 
ETTTX 


EIIIMAKHTI 
EniKAAAOI 


HEAPX 
TTOTANrE 
OEMMEAH 
OWAPONArA 

atixxon 


Emxo 


EIIAOPOAETON 
XAIPE 


NIKIA2 


/ 


FROM  LIBADEA  IN  BCEOTIA. 
"anT    ATKAl 

rpn.ToN  kAAx 


la  this  inscription  the  word  stadion  is  probably  understood:  the  Dolikon  stadion  means 
six  or  seven  times  round  the  stade.  Diaulon  means  the  race  of  twice  round  it.  The 
races  were  called  AoXi^o Jf  Ofj.o  i  and  AiauXo£fo//.oi. 


INSCRIPTIONS. 


513 


AT  LEUKA,  NEAR  THE  RUINS  OE  THESPEIA,  IN  BCEOTIA. 


A 
0 

P 

P 

X 

A 

I 

2 

A 
T 

2 
M 

0 

A 

p 

X 

A 
O 

2 

N 

T 

X 

M 
A 

A 
P 

X 

M 

O 
I 

A 

A 

° 

T 

O 

I 

1 

21 
i 

n 

p 

A 

m 

I 

T 

E 

A 

H 

2 

A 

0 

H 

N 

A 

I  joj  2 

i 
i 

i 

AT  EREMO  KASTRO,  NEAR  THE  RUINS  OF  THESPEIA. 


1. 

©EOT 
TATPOT 

3. 
KAlCAPOCEnTIMlOT 
CEBHPOTIIEPTINAKOC 
APABIKOTAAIABHNIKOT 
ANIKHTOTATTOKPATAPOC 


2. 
TOOIAHKA 

MNASinnA 

TOTIEPATET 

2IA02KAIAN 
THIIOAIEI2T 
IT20TEOPT 


The  epsilon  in  No.  8  iu  this  page  is  of  the  same  semicircular  form  as  the  sigma  in  the 
same  inscription. 


vol.  n. 


3  v 


514  INSCRIPTIONS. 


FROM  THE  RUINS  OF  THISBE  IN  BCEOTIA. 

MOTAniOTNEIKIOTBOIIMJAPXOTAnOrONOT 

MOYAniONriAPA 

MONONMOYATIIOY 

BP  AXAn  AP  AMON I A 

NOYKAIAYPHAIAL 

APEIKOTEHEYION 

ErrONONMOYAni 

OYnAPAMONOYKAI 

KOPANHEnAYAHC 

OIAAEA^OIOYAniOI 

BPAXA  CITAYAAYrEIA 


^   B  kai  A 


It  appears  that  the  fij^icr/xa,  the  Bovky  and  the  Aijjxoj  dedicate  a  statue  to  Marcus  Ulpius 
Paramonos  (who  was  Boiotarch,  or  governor  of  Boeotia)  and  his  family. 


INSCRIPTIONS.  515 


ALPHABET  FROM  A  LAMINA  OF  LEAD  FOUND  IN  A 
SEPULCHRE  AT  THE  PIR^US. 

B    £  E 


r  r  o  o  9  0  0 

a^  A  n  /^A7  ^ 

e  £  ££*£h  p  t  {  rrf 

ii  K  if  // v//  B  t  r  r  t  r 

I    /*  t  4>    + 

K   f  k  K   K  K  x   -f-  -f~ 

M  A7A1  «  -l'  z."  x 


5u2 


516 


INSCRIPTIONS. 


INSCRIPTIONS.  517 


THE  SAME  INSCRIPTION  IN  COMMON  CHARACTERS. 


TOTNAI 
O         NOT  TTP  .  .  SOTNIA 

....  MH  ...  .  NKAIEITIZAAAOZEMOIE 
KAITOTTOTSnANTASKATAAftATTOTS 
ONHSIMHCIANTASTOTTOYS 
ATTOT2KAITA2TOTTHNEnHMOI 
nPAEHlSSOUIAPATATIGHMAI 
THPHINEPMHKAT0XHKAT0X02 
ISeiTOTTnNTiiNONOMATON 
KAlTONTOTTONnANTriN 

N 
EPMHKAirHIKETETiiTMASTHPHI 
TATTAKAIT0TT0T2K0AAZHTH 

NMOATBAOKOnON 


518  INSCRIPTIONS. 

FROM  THE  ISLAND  OF  TENOS. 

TniAni 

nPTTANEIA HEITEIAHAM 

MnNIOSAMMnNIOTANHPArAGOZ 
ESTINKAIETNOTSTiZIAHMm 
TiilTHNiriNKAIAIATEAEIXAPIN 
nAPEXOMENOSKAIKOINEITEinOAEI 
KAIKAGIMANTOISENTrrXANOTXIN 
ATTOIANAAEAEXTAIAEKAITHN 
GEAPOAOKIANTONAHAinNArA 
0EITTXEIAEAOX0AITEIBOTAEKAI 
TniAHMi2IEnAINE2AITEATTON 
KAI2TE$ANilZAI0     AA     T2TE*AN 
iiIIEPfUT0Tn02EIAnN02KAITH2 
AM$ITPITH2APETH2ENEKENKAI 
ETN0IA2TH2EI2T0NAHM0NTHN 
THNIiiNEINAIAEATTONKAITOTSEK 
rONOTSATTOraPOEENOTSKAIET 
EPrETA2TH2nOAE&2AEAO20AI 
AEKAinPOEAPIANENTOISAriiSIN 
OT22TNTEAEIHriOAI2KAinP020 
A0NnP02THNB0TAHNKAIT0NAH 
MONEANTOTAEHTAIANArPA*AI 
AET0AET0¥H$I2MAEI22THAHN 
AI0INHNKAI2TH2AIEI2TOIEPONTOT 
n02EIAX2N02KAITH2AM*ITPITH2 
KAIA0HNAI SIN 

SEPULCHRAL  INSCRIPTION  FROM  TENOS. 

AMMI0NANTI0X0TZ02AP0T*A202I 
0N02TE0N02HTH2ATTH2MHTPIKAI 
AnOAAONmnAOTTIONOSZilNTI 
MNHMH2XAPINXPH2THXAPH 


INSCRIPTIONS. 


519 


FROM  MITYLENE,  IN  THE  ISLAND  OF  LESBOS. 


2 

A 

1 

0 

N 

E 

I 

sl 

T 

H'M'A 

T 

A 

2 

11 

P|0,2 

T 

I 

, 

E 

N 

a 

T 

a  k 

A 

I 

I 

T 

£2 

NM 

H 

E    I 

2 

A 

A 

P 

X 

A!M 

II 

A  E 

I 

A 

A 

2 

K 

A 

I 

T 

0 

12 

n 

E 

I 

2 

A 

P 

X 

A 

I 

2 

A 

I   K 

E 

A 

1 

K 

A 

T 

A 

n 

P 

E 

N  T 

0 

N 

M 

M 

E 

N 

SI 

N 

a 

X 

K 

E 

M  H 

A 

np 

O 

2 

T 

O 

I 

2 

E 

N 

T 

A 

I 

II 

O  A 

I 

n 

lA 

T 

m'e 

N 

o 

I 

II 

A 

N 

T 

E 

2 

n  p  o 

2A 

A 

A 

I 

a  2 

K 

A 

I 

E 

M 

M 

E 

N 

0 

I 

E 

N 

E 

N  T 

A    I 

A 

A 

I 

A'A 

T 

2 

I 

T 

A 

I 

E 

N 

T 

o 

T 

T 

12 

I 

T 

a  i 

* 

A 

T 

o 

N 

A 

A  M 

O 

N 

A 

N 

A 

P 

A 

2 

E 

I 

K 

0 

2 

1 

A 

E  K 

A 

E 

E 

K 

T 

si 

N 

E  N 

T 

A 

I 

II 

0 

A 

I 

II 

P 

o 

2 

0 

E;E  O 

N  T 

il 

N 

0 

N 

I 

0 

N 

K 

A 

I 

e  n 

1 

M 

E 

A 

E 

2 

0 

0 

N 

a 

2 

M 

H  a'e 

N  E 

2 

© 

0 

N 

T 

E 

V 

2 

I 

K 

A 

I 

T 

O 

I 

2 

E 

N 

T 

A 

i 

n 

O 

A 

i  in 

P  0 

2 

0 

A 

I 

11 

E 

P 

I 

T 

si 

N 

A 

M 

$ 

I 

2 

P 

A 

T 

H'M 

E 

Niil 

N 

K 

T 

H  M 

A  T 

a 

N 

A 

I 

II 

P 

0 

2 

T 

0 

I 

2 

E 

N 

T 

A 

I 

11 

0 

A 

I 

E 

O 

N 

T  A 

2 

K 

A 

iln 

P  0 

2 

0 

A 

I 

A 

A 

T 

2 

I 

T 

O 

N 

T 

A 

I 

A 

I 

A 

E 

M 

H 

E 

2 

2 

ON 

T 

A 

I 

a  2 

A    I 

K 

A 

I 

A 

A 

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2 

I 

2 

2 

I 

T 

A 

I 

2 

O 

B 

A 

.2 

I 

A 

E 

T 

2E 

11 

E 

K 

I11!1 

N  N 

E 

I 

• 

. 

M 

A 

E 

0 

I 

2 

I 

IT 

A 

N 

T 

E 

2 

K 

A 

I 

0 

I 

K 

H  2 

0 

I 

2 

IjT 

A  N 

II 

0 

O 

E 

N 

T 

E 

• 

II 

P 

0 

2 

A 

A 

A 

A 

A 

0 

I 

2 

K 

A 

I 

11 

E 

p 

I 

X 

P 

H  M 

A  T 

a 

N 

A 

I 

A 

I 

A 

A 

T 

2 

I 

2 

a 

2 

II 

A 

E 

I 

2 

T 

A 

K 

A 

i 

II 

E 

P 

ijo 

P  K 

si 

T 

A 

I 

II 

E 

P 

I 

T 

o 

T 

T 

a 

N 

11 

A 

N 

T 

SI 

N 

o 

2 

2 

A 

kIe 

O  M 

0 

T 

P 

E 

0 

E 

N 

T 

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V 

A 

N 

A 

P 

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2 

$ 

E 

P 

o 

N 

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0 

N  2 

n  i 

x 

I 

K 

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A 

r 

II 

T 

A 

I 

2 

T  M 

* 

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P 

H 

N 

B 

O 

A 

A 

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E  T 

SI 

0 

A 

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r 

H 

M 

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N 

A 

TI 

P 

0 

2 

A 

A 

A 

A 

A 

O 

I 

2 

2 

T 

M 

* 

E  P 

0 

N 

E 

A 

© 

o 

N 

T 

E 

2 

2 

I 

E 

II 

I 

2 

. 

K 

0 

I 

N 

A 

n 

P 

O 

T 

A 

N  I 

0 

2 

2 

0 

H 

A 

I 

A 

E 

K 

E 

T 

I 

E 

N 

A 

e  r 

H 

T 

a 

* 

A 

<I> 

I 

2  M 

AT 

O 

S 

I 

T 

A 

I 

B 

0 

A 

A 

A 

I 

K 

T 

P 

XI 

©EN 

T 

0 

2 

E 

2 

T 

SI  * 

A  * 

I 

2 

T 

0 

N 

A 

A 

M 

o 

N 

E 

N 

T 

A 

I 

E 

N 

T 

0 

I 

2 

n 

A 

N 

T 

r2  n 

H 

T 

0 

I 

2 

0 

E 

0 

I 

2 

I 

E 

11 

I 

2 

si 

T 

H 

P 

I 

A 

i 

K 

A 

I 

E;r 

A  A 

I 

M 

E 

N 

E 

2 

0 

A 

1 

T 

A 

N 

A 

I 

A 

A 

T 

2 

I 

N 

T 

0 

I 

2 

kIa 

T  E 

E 

N 

T 

A 

I 

II 

o 

A 

I 

E 

0 

N 

T 

E 

2 

K 

A 

I 

0 

E 

I 

P,H 

A 

2 

P 

A 

I 

2 

I 

p 

E 

I 

A 

I 

V 

0 

E 

I 

2   H 

I 

T 

0 

I 

2 

N 

A 

TO 

I 

2 

© 

H 

N 

T 

A 

A 

E 

I 

P 

A 

T 

A 

0 

A 

A  MO 

2 

A 

T 

0   0 

T 

T 

O 

N 

B 

A 

2 

I 

A 

II 

A 

A 

n 

r 

A 

0  M  E 

I 

T 

1 

V 

o 

N 

n 

A 

P 

E 

M 

M 

E 

N 

A 

i 

A 

E   T  A 

0 

T 

A 

I 

r 

E 

A 

O 

I 

2 

T 

() 

I 

2 

n 

p 

O 

2jT,0 

N 

B 

A 

2 

I 

A 

HA 

E 

N 

T  A 

in 

O 

A 

I 

E 

0 

N 

T 

A 

2IRIA 

I 

T 

o 

I 

v 

I 

0 

T 

T 

0 

A 

N 

A 

r 

P 

A 

* 

A 

520  INSCRIPTIONS. 


MITYLENE. 


AN0TAAIC  TflETEPrETii  EPI2CXPH 

PHriAAHC  KAISiiTHPI  CTEXAIPE 

ZriCAKATEC  KAIKTISTH2 

KETACEN  TASnOAIO 


INDEX 


The  Roman  numerals  refer  to  the  volumes;  the  figures  to  the  pages  of  each 

volume. 


Abraxas,  or  Basilkliau  stone,  copy  of  one,  i. 
1 90.  Observations  on  its  uses.  Ibid.  Tran- 
script of  one,  ii.  458. 

Academy  at  Athens,  i.  411. 

Acarnania,  islands  on  the  coast  of,  described,  i. 
60,  6 1 . 

Achaian  mountains,  beautiful  scenery  of,  ii.  302. 

Acharnce,  ruins  of,  i.  521 ,  522. 

Acheloos,  (river)  ancient  history  and  present 
state  of,  i.  102—104. 

Acroceraunian  mountains  described,  i.  22,  23. 
Character  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  range,  24. 
Ignited  hydrogen  on  their  summits,  24,  25. 
Linguetta  of,  25. 

Acrocorinthos,  or  acropolis  of  Corinth,  described, 
ii.  187 — I8'J.  Beautiful  view  from  its  vici- 
nity, 190. 

Acropolis  of  Athens,  antiquities  in  the  vicinity 
of,  described,  i.  2j7 — 302.  Its  ancient  en- 
trance, 303.  Cave  of  Pan,  304.  Turkish 
cemetery,  305.  Structure  of  the  walls  of  the 
acropolis,  300,  307.  By  whom  destroyed, 
308,  309.  Entrance  to  it,  310.  Description 
of  the  Propylaea  and  its  contiguous  buildings, 
313 — 318.  Present  state  of  the  Parthenon, 
321  —  345.  Of  the  Erectheion,  346—352. 
And  of  the  Pandroseion,  352 — 357.  Modern 
state  of  the  acropolis,  358.  Plants  growing 
there,  359. 

Acropolis  of  Thorikos,  i.  530.     Of  Elateia,  ii. 


140.  Of  Argos,  217—221.  Of  Mycenae, 
241.  Of  Tiryns,  249.  Of  Lepreos,  347. 
Of  Cyparissiai,  350. 

JEgina,  (island)  voyage  to,  i.  558,  559.  Ruins 
of  the  ancient  city  of  /Egina,  500.  Sketch  of 
the  history  of  this  island,  561,502.  Descrip- 
tion of  it,  563,  504.  Probable  ruins  of  Oie, 
505.  Cave  on  Mount  Panhellenion,  506. 
Description  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Panhel- 
lenios,  507 — 57 1 .  Remarks  on  the  /Eginetan 
style  of  sculpture,  572.  Scarabaei  found  there, 
573.     Coins  of  /Egina,  574. 

A^gion,  ruins  of,  ii.  304,  305. 

jflZgira,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  298,  299, 

/Elian's  description  of  the  valeofTempe.ii.  1 17. 

ASpasian  Plain,  probable  site  of,  ii.  347. 

Aeschylus,  illustration  of,  i.  51  1. 

Aesculapius,  ruins  of  the  sacred  grove  of,  ii.  256, 
257. 

Aganippe,  fountain  of,  i.  257. 

Agio  Euphemia,  ruins  at,  i.  145. 

Agia  Eirene,  ruins  at,  ii.  398, 

Agios  Blasios,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i.  207. 
Inhospitality  of  the  inhabitants,  ibid.  Account 
of  ancient  ruins  there,  208 — 210. 

Agio  Andreas,  ruins  near,  ii.  452. 

Agios-Georgios,  ruins  at,  described,  ii.  395,  396. 

Agios  Joannes,  village,  journey  to,  ii.  290. 

Agios  Isidores,  khan  of,  ii.  346. 

Agiru,  a  region  of  Corfu,  notice  of,  i.  39. 

Agriculture  highly  venerated  by  the  Egyptians, 
ii.  5.     And  inhabitants  of  Attica,  6. 


VOL.   II. 


3x 


522 


INDEX. 


Agrippa,  (Marcus)  pedestal  of,  i.  311. 

Aias,  ruins  of,  ii.  86. 

Aigaleos  (Mount)  journey  to  the  summit  of,  i. 
510.  The  spot  whence  Xerxes  beheld  the 
defeat  of  his  army,  511,  512.  Extensive  pa- 
noramic view  thence,  5 1 3. 

Aigypto-castro,  ruins  at,  described,  i.  283,  284. 

Airone,  ruins  of,  i.  557. 

Akruiphnion.  ruins  of,  ii.  54,  55. 

Akriita,  river,  (the  ancient  Krathis)  course  of, 
ii.  301. 

AxfCffoAif,  signification  of,  i.  295,  296. 

Alabaster  unguentaries  described,  i.  449,  450 

Albanian  robbers,  singular  interview  of  the 
author  with,  i.  72 — 74. 

Albanians,  flagitious  conduct  of,  at  Patra,  i.  113. 
Dress  of  the  men,  134 — 138,  and  of  the 
women,  140.— 142.  Arms  and  character  of 
the  Albanian  soldiers,  138,  139.  Description 
of  an  Albanian  marriage  procession,  ii.  23, 24. 
Dangerous  situation  of  the  author  from  some 
Albanian  banditti,  453—457. 

Alitouri  (village)  account  of  some  Greek  rob- 
bers besieged  there,  ii.  355,  356.  Curious 
bridge  near  it  described,  357. 

Almonds  of  lead  found  in  the  plain  of  Marathon, 
ii.  160. 

Alphabet  from  a  lamina  of  lead,  found  in  a  se- 
pulchre at  the  Piraeus,  ii.  515. 

Alpheios  (river)  course  of,  ii.  324,  325.  Passage 
of  it  by  the  author,  340,  380. 

Alusson  (fountain)  notice  of,  ii.  451. 

Ambracian  Gulf,  notice  of,  i.  57. 

Ambrysos,  situation  of,  i.  199.  Notice  of  its 
ruins,  ibid,  200.  Copy  of  an  inscription  found 
there,  ii.  512. 

Ampelakia  (town)  present  state  of,  ii.  107,  108. 

Ampelbne,  (village)  notice  of,  ii.  384. 

Ampliissa.     See  Saluna. 

Amulets,  prevalence  of,  among  the  ancients,  ii. 
32. 

Amyhlai,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  412 — 414>. 

Anaph'isi,port,  (the  ancient  Anaphlystos),  notice 
of,  i.  546,  547. 

Anchesmos  (Mount),  situation  of,  i.  515.  Pa- 
norama thence,  515.  Inscriptions  there,  ibid. 
Ancient  ruins  on  it,  516. 

Andania,  ruins  of,  ii.  369. 

Anigriades,  (nymphs)  cave  of,  ii.  345. 

Anigros,  (river)  account  of,  ii.  345.  Cause  of 
the  marshes  in  its  vicinity,  ibid. 

Annoni  (Count),  acknowledgement  of  the  author 
to,  ii.  468. 

Anticharmos,  sepulchre  of,  i.  437. 

Antiquities,  descriptions  and  delineations  of,  at 
Corfu,  i.  31—  36.  Near  Mesaloggion,  96 — 
100.  At  Agia  Euphemia,  145.  At  Delphi, 
175,  181,  183.  At  Palaia-Arakoba,  196, 
197.  At  Ambrysos,  199,  200.  At  Agios 
Blasios  or  Panopeus,  208,  209.  At  Libadea, 
219.     Of  Cha-roneia,  220— 224.     Of  Orcho- 


menos,  227 — 232.  At  Koroneia,  247.  Of 
Haliartos,  248—251.  Of  Thespeia,  2.53 — 
257.  OfThisbe,  258.  Of  Thebes,  262,  263, 
264—266.  Of  Plataea,  277— 280.  Of  Eleu- 
therai,  283.  Of  Athens,  289—460.  On 
mount  Hymettos,  482 — 484.  On  Mount  An- 
chesmos, 516.  Of  Acharnae,  521,  522.  Near 
Cape  Zoster,  525,  526.  Near  Cephissia,  528. 
Of  Thorikos,  534.  At  Laurion,  538.  On  the 
promontory  of  Sunium,  542 — 544.  On  the 
Attican  coast,  548.  At  the  village  of  Bari, 
549.  In  the  cave  of  Pan,  551—554.  In 
the  island  of.Egina,  559—572.  Of  Akraiph- 
nion, ii.  5  1,  55.  Of  Kopai,  56.  Near  Ta- 
landa,  59,  60.  Ancient  remains  of  a  castle 
above  the  pass  of  Thermopylae,  72 — 74.  Of 
Echinos,  80.  Of  Larissa  Kremaste,  8 1.  Of 
Aias,  86.  Of  Pagasai  and  Demetrias,  87,  S8. 
Of  Iolkos,  90—92.  Of  Pherai,  95.  Near  the 
Lake  Boebeis,  97.  Near  Mount  Ossa,  104. 
Near  Megalo-Moulki,  147.  Of  Onchcstos, 
ibid.  Of  Tcumessos,  148.  Of  Chalcis,  151. 
Of  Eretria,  154.  Of  Oropos  and  Tauagra, 
156.  Found  in  the  Marathonian  plain,  159. 
Of  Lilaea,  133.  Of  an  ancient  city  at  Dadi, 
13t.  Of  Drvmaia,  135,  136.  OfTithoraia, 
138.  Of  Elateia,  140,  11-1.  Near  Eleusis, 
170,  171.  At  Eleusis,  17  4.  Of  Megara, 
177—180.  At  Corinth,  191,  192.  Of  Kleo- 
nai,  206.  At  Ncmea,  209,  210.  At  Argos, 
2 1 6—22 1 .  Of  Mycenae,  229—242.  On  the 
way  to  Tiryns,  244—246.  At  Nauplia,  247. 
At  Tiryns,  248 — 25  I .  Between  Nauplia  and 
Ligurio,  253,  254.  Of  the  sacred  grove  of 
iEsculapius,  256,  257.  On  the  road  to  Trce- 
zen,  265,  266.  At  Trcezen,  268— 271.  In 
the  island  of  Kalauria,  276,  277.  At  Me- 
thana,  282.  At  the  village  of  Phanari,  286. 
At  Sicyon,  294—297.  At  iEgira,  298,  299. 
At  Aigai,  301.  At  .Egion,  304,  305.  Of 
Olenos  and  Pharai,  310,  311.  Of  Dyme, 
311,312.  At  Teichos,  312,313.  Of  Elis, 
at  Palaiopoli,  317,  318.  Of  Ohmpia,  329, 
336.  Of  Phrixa,  at  Palaio-Phanari,  341, 
342.  Near  Krestina,  343.  Of  Samikon,  at 
Kallonia,  344.  Of  Lepreos,  347,  348.  Of 
Cyparissiai,  350.  Of  Messene,  365,  366.  Of 
Andania,  at  HellcnikSkastro,  369.  Of  Me- 
galopolis, 370,  375,  376.  Near  Megalopolis, 
377.  Of  Gortys,  at  Kachikolo-Kastro,  382. 
Near  Ampelone,  385 — 38S.  At  Agios  Geor- 
gios,  394 — 396.  At  Leontari,  397,  398.  At 
Petrlna,  398.  At  Agia  Eirene,  ibid.  At 
Misithra,  401,  402.  Of  Sparta,  403—406. 
Of  Amyklai,  at  Sclavo-Chorio,  412—414. 
At  the  village  of  Piali,  419.  At  Mantineia, 
422,  423.  At  Stymphalos,  435.  At  Phonia, 
437,  4.(8.  Of  Kleitor,  443,  444.  Of  Cy- 
nu2tha,  at  Kalabryta,  447,  448,  and  near 
Kalabryta,  451.  Near  Gusumistris,  452. 
Ants,  Herculean,  described,  ii.  47. 


INDEX. 


523 


Aol'ida,  probable  situation   of   the  town   of,   i. 

197. 
Apollo,  (the  Amyklaian),  remains  of  the  temple 

of,  ii    413. 
Apollo  Epikourios,  origin  of  the  appellation  of, 

ii.  3S5.     Description  of  the  temple  of,  386— 

388. 
Apollo  and  Pytho,  fable  of,  i.    180.     Account 

of  the  celebrated  temple,  oracle,  and  cavern 

of,  170—179. 
Apollonla,  ignited  hydrogen  near,  described,  i. 

21,   25.     Ancient  coin  of  that  city  noticed, 

25. 
Aqueduct,  ruins  of  one  near  the  river  Eurotas, 

ii.  400. 
Arachthos,  (river)  ii.  313. 
Arakuha,  (village)  notice  of,  i.  1 06. 
Araxos,  lake,  ii.  3 1 2.     Promontory  of,  3 1 3. 
Arch  of  Hadrian  at  Athens,  i.  385,  386. 
Areiopagos,  present  state  of,  i.  361. 
Arethusa,  fountain   of,   in  the    isle  of  Euboea, 

notice  of,  ii.  151. 
Arethusa,  fountain  of,  described,  i.  69,  70. 
Argos,  beautiful  view  of  the  plain  of,  ii.  214. 

Present  state  of  it,  ibid.     And  of  the  city  of 

Argos,  215.     Remains  of  the  ancient  theatre, 

216,  217.    Subterranean  chamber  there,  216. 

Present    state   of  the   acropolis,    217 — 221. 

Sketch  of  the  ancient  history  of  Argos,  222. 
Aristomenes ,  extraordinary  escape  of,  ii.  4-1 1. 
Arhadia  (town)  present  state  of,  ii.  351. 
Armlro,  (town)  notice  of,  ii.  86. 
Armour  anciently  suspended  in  the  Parthenon, 

i.  31-2,  and  deposited  in  tombs,  444. 
Arnautlho,  a  modern  Albanian  dance,  account  of, 

ii.  21,  22. 
Arnauts,  dress  of  described,  i.  131—  13S.  140 

— 142.     Character  and  aims  of.  the  Arnaut 

soldiers,  13  s,  139. 
Aroaivos,  (river)  notice  of,  ii.  440.     Its  source, 

442.     Fabulous  account  of  its  fish,  445. 
Arrow-heads,   various,  found   in    the   plain    of 

Marathon,  ii.  159,  160. 
Arts   and   sciences,   superiority  of  the   ancient 

Greeks  in,  ii.  4. 
Aspirate  rarely  expressed  in  pakrogrnphy,  i.  35. 
AtrlpaytzXii  or  Astragals,  a  game  of  the  ancient 

and  modern  Greeks,  account  of,  ii.  38. 
A.<nu,  signification  of,  ascertained,  i.  295,  296. 
Atalanta,  story  of,  i.  44S. 
Atalante,  (island)  notice  of,  ii.  58- 
Athenians,  contrast  between,  and  the  Spartans, 

ii.  2.     Divisions  of  the  modern  Athenians,  1  1. 

Notices  of  ancient  Athenian  families,  11,  12, 

and  of  the  Athenian  women,  24. 
Athens,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i.  2S7.     De- 
scription of  the  choragic  monument  of  Lysi- 

krates,  289.  Beautiful  views  from  the  convent 

of  Missionaries,  291.     Mercenary  conduct  of 

the  disdar  of  Athens,  291,  292.     Different 


significations  of  the  words  aarv,  tfoXts,  and 
axpoiroXis ,  293.  Theatre  of  Herodes  Atticus, 
297,  298.  Portico  and  theatre  in  its  vicinity, 
298,299.  Monument  of  Thrasyllos  described, 
299,  300.  Represented  on  coins  and  vases, 
301,  302.  The  Makrai  Petrai,  and  original 
entrance  to  the  acropolis,  described,  303. 
The  cave  of  Pan,  304.     Turkish  cemetery, 

305.  Structure  of  the  walls  of  the  acropolis, 

306,  307.  By  whom  destroyed,  308,  309. 
Entrance  to  the  acropolis,  310.  Colossal  pe- 
destal of  Agrippa,  311.  Propylaea  and  con- 
tiguous buildings  described,  313.  The  frusta 
of  tlie  columns  of  the  Propylaea  united  with 
wood,  3 1 4.  Inscription  in  the  acropolis,  318. 
Impressions  on  entering  the  Parthenon,  321. 
Remarks  on  its  late  spoliations,  322,  324, 
331.  Indignation  of  the  Athenians,  323. 
The  Parthenon  respected  by  the  Greeks  and 
Turks,  325.  Account  of  ancient  edifices  de- 
stroyed by  the  latter  at  Athens,  326.  Com- 
parison between  them  and  the  Romans,  327. 
Present  state  of  the  Parthenon  described,  329, 
330,  344.  Its  painted  ornaments,  332,  and 
sculpture,  333 — 340.  Armour  anciently  sus- 
pended there,  341.  Polychrome  temples  and 
statues,  343.  Remarks  on  the  incorrect  ac- 
counts of  some  travellers,  340.  Description 
of  the  Erechtheion,  346 — 352,  and  of  the 
Pandroseion,  352 — 357.  Modern  state  of 
the  acropolis,  358.  Plants  growing  there, 
359.  The  areiopagus,  361,  3o2.  Temple  of 
Theseus,     362.      Painted     sculpture    there, 

365.  Description  of  the  sculptured  centaurs, 

366,  367.  State  of  the  Theseion,  368.  An- 
nual dance  held  there  described,  370.  The 
Ptolemaion  or  gymnasium  of  Ptolemy,  371. 
Inscription  on  an  altar  of  the  Dioscuri,  371. 
Other  inscriptions  found  near  the  Theseion, 
372.  Doric  portico,  373.  Tower  of  the  eight 
winds,  373,  374.  Dance  of  the  Derwisches, 
375,  376.  Ruins  and  inscription  near  the 
bazar,  377,  378.  Column  of  Saint  John,  379. 
Cathedral  and  inscriptions,  380,  381.  Mo- 
dern walls  of  Athens,  3S 1 .  Its  modern  gates 
described,  382  —385.  Arch  of  Hadrian,  385, 
386.  Inscription  thereon,  387.  Temple  of 
Jupiter  Olympios,  388 — 391.  Monument  of 
Pliilopappos,  39^,  393.  The  Musaeum,  393. 
Panoramic  view  thence,  394.  Sepulchral 
caverns,  396.  Magic  ceremonies  performed 
therein  by  Turkish  women,  397.  Remarks 
on  the  magic  rites  of  the  modern  Greeks,  398, 
399.  Ancient  sepulchral  inscriptions,  400. 
Description  of  the  Pnyx,  401.  Inscriptions 
and  votive  offerings  there,  402 — 405.  A  rock 
in  the  form  of  a  human  figure,  406.  The 
Lycasum,  407.  Bridge  of  Hadrian,  408.  Sta- 
dium, 409,  410.  The  academy,  411.  Villas 
and  churches,  412.  Inscriptions  thereon,  ibid., 


3x2 


524 


INDEX. 


413.  Colonos  Hippios,  413,  414.  Sepulchres 
near  the  gate  Dipulon,  415.  Way  to  the 
Piraeus  described,  416.  Ancient  tumuli,  410, 
417.  The  long  walls,  418.  Athenian  and 
Piraean  walls,  419.  Inscriptions  found  there, 
420.  Description  of  port  Piraeus,  420 
—422.  Other  Athenian  ports,  422.  Sup- 
posed tomb  of  Themistocles,  423,  424.  Port 
Mounychia,  425,  420.  Port  Phaleron,  427. 
Cape  Kolias,  428.  Ancient  Piraean  quarries, 
429.  Nekropolis  of  the  Piraeus,  43<>.  Ob- 
servations on  various  modes  of  interment,  43 1 . 
Description  of  the  sepulchres  at  the  Piraeus, 
432.  Sepulchre  of  the  magistrate  Diodoros, 
433 — 1-36.  And  of  the  magistrates  Antichar- 
mos  and  Deinias,  437.  Other  sepulchres, 
438.  Moveable  statues,  439,  440.  Notice 
of  various  objects  placed  in  the  sepulchres, 
441 — 455.  Descriptions  of  various  sepulchral 
vases,  455 — 400.  Port  and  promontory  of 
Suuium,  539 — 545.  Power  and  wealth  of 
ancient  Athens,  ii.  7.  Vitiated  state  of  the 
Greek  language  there,  16.  Complaints  made 
against  the  voivode  of  Athens,  20.  Account 
of  the  intrusion  of  the  disdar  of  Athens  into  a 
bath  of  females,  27.  His  discovery,  flight, 
and  return  to  Athens,  28.  Concealment  iu 
the  convent,  28.  Sketch  of  the  final  history 
of  Athens,  and  its  conquest  by  the  Turks, 
47 — 50.  Second  arrival  at  and  final  de- 
parture from  Athens,  1  06,  167.  List  of  Athe- 
nian fruits  and  vegetables,  495 — 497.  Prices 
of  some  articles  of  consumption  at  Athens,  by 
the  ocque,  498,  499. 

Af/antidcs,  cave  of  the,  ii.  345. 

Atreus,  treasury  of  at  Mycenae,  described,  ii. 
229 — 234. 

Attica,  rivers  of,  i.  468 — 477.  Mountains  of, 
478—516.  Hills  of,  516,  517.  Travelling 
in,  518.  Hospitality  of  the  inhabitants,  519. 
Their  occasional  iuhospitality,  530.  Tour  of 
Attica,  526,  et  seq.  Soil  of  Attica,  ii.  5.  Agri- 
culture why  venerated  there,  0.  Local  ad- 
vantages that  compensated  for  the  sterility  of 
its  soil,  7.  Climate,  7,  8.  Produce,  9.  Birds, 
40.  Reptiles,  44.     Insects,  45 — 47. 

Augean,  stables  of,  fable  of,  explained,  ii.  321, 
322. 

Aulis,  port  of,  ii.  154. 


B. 


liaba,  (village)  notice  of,  ii.  107. 

BaiTuXog,  or  consecrated  stone,  near  Eleusis,  ii. 
172. 

lianditti,  (Greek)  account  of  the  siege  of  some, 
in  the  village  of  Alitouri,  ii.  355,  356.  Con- 
flict of  the  author  and  his  party  with  some, 
37  1,  372—374. 


Bari,  (village)  ancient  ruins  at,  i.  549.  Present 
state  of  this  village,  ibid.  550. 

Basillka,  (village)  situated  on  the  ruins  of  Si- 
cyon,  ii.294.  Character  of  its  inhabitants,  296. 

Basilis,  remarks  on  the  situation  of,  ii.  380. 
Description  of  an  unique  medal  of  this  ancient 
city,  ibid. 

Btt.trx.xvos,  or  charm  of  the  ancients,  accounts  of, 
ii.  31—34. 

Bas-relief,  curious,  at  Romaiko,  described  and 
delineated,  i.  242,  243.  Conjecture  relative 
to  it,  244. 

Balhu,  port  of,  ii.  154. 

Bathu  Rlieuma,  (the  Bathos  of  Pausanias)  tor- 
rent bed  of,  ii.  380. 

Bdestina,  (town)  notice  of,  ii.  95. 

Be/itza,  beautiful  situation  of,  ii.  137.  Ancient 
ruins  at,  138. 

Bema,  of  the  Pnyx  at  Athens,  situation  of,  i. 
401.     Votive  offerings  there,  402 — 405. 

Bethels,  or  consecrated  stones  of  the  ancients, 
account  of,  ii.  172. 

Birds  of  Attica,  notice  of,  ii.  40 — 45. 

Bituminous  springs  of  Zakunthos,  account  of,  i. 
81,  82. 

Bocca  di  Cattaro,  described,  i.  13,  14.  Fine  echo 
there,  13.     Commerce  of,  18. 

Boebeis,  (lake)  notice  of,  ii.  96,  97 — 125. 

Boidia  (Mount)  the  ancient  Panachaikos,  de- 
scribed, i.  114. 

Bolo,  (town)  described,  ii.  89. 

Bostitza,  beautiful  scenery  near,  ii.  306. 

Bouprasion,  probable  site  of,  ii.  314. 

Bouraikos,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  303 — 448.  Ro- 
mantic glen  of,  303. 

Brauron,  doubtful  situation  of,  i.  529. 

Bread  of  Attica,  account  of,  ii.  11. 

Brilessos,  (Mount),  i.  514. 

Brina,  (village)  described,  ii.  343.  Extensive 
view  thence,  344. 

Burial,  Turkish  mode  of,  i.  305,  306.  Obser- 
vations on  various  modes  of,  at  Athens,  431 
— 403,  454.     Ancient  modes  of,  463. 


Canigule,  or  Canidole,  islands,  notice  of,  i.  3. 

Capelletto,  (village)  notice  of,  ii.  315. 

Carts,  (ancient)  notice  of,  ii.  103. 

Castel  Nuovo,  (town)  notice  of,  i.  13,  14. 

Cathedral  of  Athens,  notice  of,  i.  380. 

Cattiiro,  (town)  described,  i.  10.  Ancient  in- 
scription there,  ibid.  Situation  of  its  fortress, 
17.  Manners  of  the  Cattariotes,  ibid.  Their 
revengeful  spirit,  18.     See  Bocca  di  Cattiiro. 

Cave  of  Pan  in  the  acropolis  of  Athens  described, 
i.  304,  305.  Of  Pan,  on  Mount  Rapsana, 
550 — 554.  On  the  plain  of  Marathon,  ii. 
1 02.     Of  the  Nemean  lion,  2 1 3. 


INDEX. 


525 


Cavern,  oracular  of  Apollo  at  Delphi,  i.  179. 
Of  Trophonios,  at  Libadea,  216 — 218.  Se- 
pulchral, near  the  Musseum,  396.  In  the  Pen- 
telic  quarries,  500.  Sacred  cavern  on  Mount 
Parnes,  .'506—  508. 

Cemeteries,  (Turkish)  described,  i.  305. 

Centaurs,  beautiful  sculptures  of,  in  the  Theseion 
at  Athens,  i.  366,  367. 

Cephallenia,  (island)  size  and  population  of,  i. 
74.  Its  appearance  from  Ithaca,  64.  Ancient 
name  and  cities  of,  65.  List  of  its  modern 
ports  and  towns,  65,  66,  and  villages,  ii.  48^. 

Cephissia,  village  of,  i.  526. 

Cephissos,  (river)  sources  of,  ii.  133.  Its  course, 
i.  234,  242,  471,476,  477,  527.  Ancient 
legend  concerning  the  property  of  its  waters, 
242. 

Ceres,  temple  of,  at  Athens,  destroyed,  i.  410. 
Inscription  on  the  ruins  of  her  temple  at 
Eleusis,  ii.  174.  Present  state  of  those  ruins, 
i.  583. 

Chceroneia,  acropolis  of,  i.  220.  Remains  of  its 
ancient  theatre  described,  221.  Nekropolis 
of,  222.  Ancient  tlironos,  or  marble  chair,  in 
the  church  of  the  Virgin,  ibid.  Tradition  of 
the  inhabitants  relative  to  the  battle  of  Chas- 
roneia,  224.  Description  of  its  plain,  222. 
Effects  of  the  battle  of,  277.  The  author's 
second  arrival  there,  ii.  142,  143. 

Chalcis,  ruins  of,  ii.  151. 

Charadrus  near  Patra,  i.  1 20. 

Chimera,  ancient  fortress  of,  i.  24.  Character  of 
the  Cbimariotes,  ibid.  Natural  phenomenon 
in  its  vicinity  described,  24,  25. 

Christians,  in  Turkey,  oppressively  treated,  i.  92. 

Churches  of  Athens,  erected  on  the  sites  of  tem- 
ples, i.  412.     Inscriptions  therein,  ibid.  413. 

Cithceron,  (Mount)  described,  i.  281,  282. 

Civita  T'ecchia,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  ii.  466. 
Infamous  treatment  of  him  by  a  French  gene- 
ral there,  467. 

Climate  of  Attica,  ii.  7,  8. 

Coins,  (ancient)  notices  of,  at  Issa,  or  Lissa,  i. 
7,  note  7.  At  Lessina,  10.  At  Apollonia, 
25.  At  Ithaca,  71,  72.  Of  Oiniadia,  101. 
At  Delphi,  1 90—1 93.  At  Orcliomenos,  232. 
At  Thespeia,  255.  At  Thebes,  274.  Of 
iEgina,  573,  574.  Of  the  iEnianes,  ii.  75. 
Of  Oeta,  Lamia,  and  Malia,  76.  Of  Phar- 
salia,  121.  Of  Mykalessos,  149.  Of  Megara, 
180.  Of  Corinth,  20S.  Of  Methana,  283. 
Of  Megalopolis,  376.  Of  Basilis,  380.  Of 
Tegea,  420.  Of  Mantiueia,  428.  Of  Stym- 
phalos,  437.  Of  Pheneos,  43S,  439.  Of 
Kleitor,  444. 

Colonos  Hippios,  described,  i.  413,  414. 

Columns  of  the  Propylaea  at  Athens,  frusta  of, 
incrusted  with  wood,  i.  314.  Of  St.  John,  379. 

Constantino,  (village  of)  ii.  355. 

Corfu,  or  Corcyra,  island,  arrival  of  the  author 
at,  i.  28.     Account  of  an  insurrection  there 


between  the  Turks  and  Greeks,  29 — 31. 
Ancient  names  of  this  island,  32.  Origin  of 
its  present  name,  33.  Notices  of  ancient 
ruins  and  other  antiquities  there,  33 — 36. 
Copies  of  inscriptions  found  there,  ii.  503 — 
506.  Sketch  of  the  history  of  this  island,  i. 
37.  Description  of  it,  38;  and  of  its  provinces, 
39.  Productions,  40.  Church  of  St.  Spiri- 
dion,  40.  Notices  of  insular  rocks  near  Cor- 
fu, 41,  42.  Panorama  of  this  island,  43. 
Voyage  thence  to  the  island  of  Santa  Maura, 
44 — 18.  Tempestuous  passage  of  the  author 
through  the  canal  of  Corfu,  ii   461. 

Corinth,  isthmus  of,  ii.  183.  Notice  of  various 
unsuccessful  attempts  to  unite  the  Corinthian 
and  Saronic  seas,  184.  Remains  of  the  great 
foss,  and  isthmian  walls,  184 — 186.  Account 
of  the  Acrocorinthos,  187 — 189.  Beautiful 
view  from  its  vicinity,  1 90.  Remains  of  a 
Doric  temple  at  Corinth,  191,  192.  Present 
state  of  Corinth,  192,  193.  Description  of 
Kenchreiai,  one  of  its  ports,  193,  194.  Bath 
of  Helena,  195.  Ancient  sepulchres,  196. 
Beautiful  funereal  vase  found  there,  197 — 
200.  Mouth  of  an  ancient  well  at  Corinth, 
200—204.  Coins  of  this  city,  208.  Subse- 
quent visit  of  the  author  to  this  city,  291. 
Fertility  of  the  country  in  its  vicinity,  292, 
293.  Description  of  the  road  between  Corinth 
and  Sicyon,  293. 

Corinthian  gulf ,  various  appellations  of,  i.  Ill, 
1 1 2.  Voyage  up,  from  Patras  to  Galaxidi, 
124 — 130.     Beautiful  view  of  it,  307. 

Corn,  trodden  out  by  oxen,  in  Attica,  ii.  10. 
Of  Attica  mingled  with  lolium,  1 1. 

Costumes  of  the  Greeks,  observations  on,  1 33— 
142. 

Courts  of  justice  at  Athens,  elucidations  of,  i. 
433 — 1-37. 

Crocian  plain,  ii.  84. 

Cruelty  of  the  Greek  pirates,  i.  58,  59. 

Currants,  where  produced,  ii.  212. 

Curzbla,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  11. 

Cyclades  of  Dalmatia,  account  of  the  author's 
voyage  through,  i.  3 — 15. 

Cyclopians,  conjectures  relating  to,  ii.  219. 
Notice  of  the  walls  of  Argos,  ascribed  to  them, 
219,  220.  Cyclopian  walls  of  Mycenae,  243  ; 
and  of  Tiryns,  250,  251. 

Cyparissiai,  remains  of,  ii.  350. 

Cyparisseis,  (river)  probable  course  of,  ii.  352. 

Cypress  tree,  large,  at  Patra,  described,  i.  121, 
122. 

Cyncetha,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  447,  448. 

Cserna  Goria,  see  Monte  Negro. 


Dadi,  ruins  at,  ii.  134. 
Dalmatia,  coast  of  described,  i.  4. 


526 


INDEX. 


Dalmatian  islands,  general  notice  of,  and  of  their 
productions,  i.  3,  4.  Geography  of  them,  ac- 
cordingtoStrabo,4;  and  Pliny,  ii»V.  Narrative 
of  the  author's  voyage  through  them,  5 — 15. 

Damala,  supposed  ruins  of,  ii.  271. 

Dance,  annual,  in  the  Theseion,  described,  i. 
371.  Of  the  Derwisches,  375,  37  0.  Ofthe 
modern  Greeks,  ii.  21 — 23. 

Daphne,  monastery  of,  ii.  169. 

Dara,  village  of,  ii.  28  1. 

Daulia,  the  ancient  Daulis,  arrival  of  the  author 
at,  i.  201,  202.  Coincidence  between  a  festi- 
val of  its  inhabitants  and  the  Pyancpsia  ofthe 
Athenians,  202,  203.  Auecdotes  of  their 
simplicity,  203,  204.  Ancient  ruins  here, 
205.  Noble  view  of  Parnassos  from  this 
village,  206. 

Deinias,  sepulchre  of,  i.  437. 

Delion,  town  and  plain  of,  ii,  155. 

Delphi,  ancient  state  of,  i.  103.  Approach  to 
this  place  described,  164 — 166.  Ruins  of, 
175.  Ancient  history  ofthe  celebrated  tem- 
ple of  Apollo  here,  176,  177.  Oracle  of 
Apollo,  178.  Prophetic  cavern,  179.  Ancient 
stadium,  181.  Inscriptions  and  other  ruins 
at  Delphi,  1 82,  1 83 — 1 88.  ii.  507 — 5 1  I .  Ac- 
counts and  descriptions  of  coins  obtained  here, 
i.  190—193. 

Demetrius,  ruins  of,  ii.  87,  88.  Notice  of  a  cave 
in  its  vicinity,  88. 

Demetrius,  (St.)  Island  of,  i.  41. 

Derwisches,  dance  of,  described,  i.  375,  370. 

Dilapidations  of  the  antiquities  of  Athens,  re- 
marks on,  i.  322,  324,  331,  354,  309.  Indig- 
nation of  the  Atheuians  at  them,  323.  No- 
tice of  the  dilapidations  committed  by  the 
Turks,  326. 

Diodoros,  sepulchre  of,  described,  i.  433 — 436. 

Dioscuri,  inscription  on  an  altar  of,  i.  371. 

Discus,  a  game  ofthe  ancient  Greeks,  still  played 
bv  the  modern  Greeks  and  by  the  Italians,  ii. 
39,  40. 

Disdar  of  Athens,  intrusion  of,  into  a  bath  of 
females,  ii.  27.  His  discovery,  flight,  and 
return  to  Athens,  28.  Concealment  in 
the  convent,  29.  Makes  his  peace  with  his 
enemies,  30. 

Distances,  how  measured  in  Greece  1.  vii.  viii. 

J)ist'6mo,  village  of,  i.  198.  Account  of  ruins 
there,  1 99,  200.  Journey  thence  to  Daulis  or 
Daulia,  201,  202. 

Divinities  of  the  Greeks,  anciently  had  temples 
in  common,  i.  340. 

Dorinn,  (city)  probable  site  of,  ii.  353. 

Doris,  plain  of,  ii.  1(0.  Various  names  and 
divisions  of  this  country,  ibid.  Remains  of 
of  the  Dorian  cities,  132.  Ruins  of  Lila?a, 
133.  Of  an  ancient  city  at  Dadi,  1 44.  Of 
Drymaia,  135,  136.  State  ofthe  weather  in 
this  region,  130,  137. 

Doulichion,  one  of  the  Echiuades,  notice  of,  i. 


100.     Supposed  to  be  the  present  immersed 

island  of  Kakaba,  108. 
Drepanon,  promontory  of,  i.  127. 
Dress  of  the  Albanians  or  Arnauts,  i.  134 — 142. 
Drymaia,  ruins  of,  ii.  135,  130. 
Durazzo,  the  ancient  Epidamnus  or  Dyrrachion, 

account  of,  i.  22.  23. 
Dyme,  probable  ruins  of,  ii.  31 1,  312. 


E. 


Echinades  islands,  opinions  of  ancient  geogra- 
phers concerning,  i.  105,  100.  Mistakes  of 
modern  travellers  concerning  them  corrected, 
107.     Their  produce  and  present  state,  lOy. 

Echinos,  ruins  of,  ii.  80. 

Edifices,  ancient,  account  of,  destroyed  by  the 
Turks  and  Romans  at  Athens,  i.  326,  327 

Education,  state  of,  in  Greece,  i.  108.  Of  women 
neglected,  289. 

Eirene's  (St.)  Castle,  ruins  of,  described,  i. 
96—100. 

El,  remarks  on  the  names  of  places  commencing 
with  this  word,  ii.  320. 

Elatcia,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  140,  14k 

Eleia,  territory  of,  described,  ii.  317. 

Eleusis,  sketch  ofthe  ancient  history  of,  i.  581. 
Temple  of  Ceres,  5S2.  Present  state  of 
Eleusis,  5S3.  Ancient  ruins  to  be  seen  there, 
584.  Description  ofthe  plain  of  Eleusis,  585. 
Coins  of  this  place,  ibid.  Second  journey  to 
Eleusis,  ii.  168.  Sacred  way,  169.  Mo- 
nastery of  Daphne,  ibid.  Votive  rock,  170. 
Remains  of  a  temple  there,  170,  171.  Be- 
thels or  consecrated  stones,  172.  The  sacred 
way,  173.     Inscription  at  Eleusis,  174. 

Eleutherai,  ruins  of,  described,  i.  283,  284. 

Elis,  (city)  ruins  of,  ii.  317,  318.  Description 
of  its  territory,  319,  and  plain,  321. 

EXixpvirov  of  Dioscorides  described,  i.  9. 

Elimbos,  (village)  ruins  near,  i.  547. 

Enneakrounos,  fountain  of,  i.  472. 

Epiros,  voyage  along  the  coast  of,  i.  27.  Moun- 
tains of,  28,  43.     Ancient  population  of,  44. 

Eradida,  village  of,  i.  523. 

Erasinos,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  224,  225. 

Erechtltcion,  at  Athens  described,  i.  318 — 352. 

Eremo-Kastio,  village  of,  i.  252.  Copy  of  an 
inscription  found  there,  ii.  513. 

Eretria,  ruins  of,  ii.  154. 

Eridarms,  (river)  course  of,  i.  477. 

Ermos,  supposgd  ruins  of,  i.  547. 

Ei/bcea,  (island)  account  of,  ii.  1  50.  Descrip- 
tion of  its  capital,  151.  Ruins  of  Chalcis, 
ibid.  Ancient  history  of  this  island,  152.  Its 
productions,  ibid.  153. 

Euripides,  cenotaph  of,  i.  416.  Illustration  of 
his  tragedy  of  Ion,  303. 

Euripos,  (river)  account  of,  ii.  149,  150. 

Earotas,  source  of,  ii.  399.     Copy  of  an  inscrjp- 


INDEX. 


527 


tion  found  near  its  banks,  400.  Various 
names  of,  409. 

Evander's  Hill,  probable  site  of,  ii.  36S. 

Evenos,  (river)  and  its  vicinity  described,  i.  109, 
110. 

Evil  Eye,  ancient  names  of,  ii.  30.  Prevalence 
of  this  superstition  in  ancient  times,  3 1 .  Sup- 
posed remedies  against  it,  32 — 36. 


Families,  ancient  Athenian,  notices  of,  ii.  1 1,  12. 
Fascination,  supposed  remedies  against,  ii.  33 — 

37. 
Fish,  musical,  notice  of,  ii.  445. 
Fountain  of  Arethusa  described,  i.  69,  70.    The 

fountains  of  Thebes,  267,  26S.    The  Hyperian 

fountain,  ii.   93,   94.      Of  Arethusa  in   the 

island  of  Euboea,  151.     Of  Kleitor,  444.     Of 

Alusson,  451,  452. 
Four/none,  (Abbe)  remarks  on  the  inscriptions 

of  Sparta  and  Amyklai,  collected  by,  ii.  406. 

Extracts  from  his  letters,  407,  408. 
Franks,  Europeans  why  so  called,  i.  33,  note. 
Frog-,  see  Tree  frog-. 


G. 


Galaxldi,  the  ancient  Euanthia,  present  state 
of,  i.  130,  131.  Import  of  its  name,  131. 
Inscription  there,  ibid.  Character  of  its  in- 
habitants, 132.  Account  of  their  celebration 
of  carnival,  132,  133.  Dress  of  the  Galaxi- 
diotes,  131 — 142. 

Games  of  the  modern  Greeks,  account  of,  ii.  37. 
The  Mora,  ibid.  Astragals,  38.  Pentegoulos, 
ibid.  Strephoulida,  39.  Tridon,  ibid.  Mada, 
or  Discus,  ibid. 

Gates  of  Thebes,  attempt  to  ascertain  the  sites 
of,  i.  264 — 266.  Modern  gates  of  Athens  de- 
scribed, 382—384. 

Gate  of  the  Lions  at  Mycenae  described,  ii.  238 
— 241. 

George,  (Kolokotrone,  a  Greek  robber)  account 
of,  ii.  356. 

Gerania,  (Mount)  ii.  182.  Skironian  rocks  at 
its  base,  ibid.     Magnificent  view  thence,  183. 

Glaukos,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  309. 

Gortynios,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  382. 

Gortys,  site  of  ascertained,  ii.  3S1.  Ruins  of, 
described,  382,  383. 

Granet,  (Mons.)  acknowledgement  of  the  author 
to,  ii.  468. 

Greece,  remarks  on  the  orthography  of  places  in, 
i.  v.  vi.  ii.  473.;  and  on  the  measures  of  dis- 
tance that  obtain  there,  i.  vii.  viii.  Robbery  not 
considered  disgraceful  in,  73,  74.  Sensations 
of  the  author  on  first  beholding  this  country, 
78,  79.  Costumes  of  the  Greeks  described, 
132 — 142.  State  of  education  in  Greece,  168. 


Magical  incantations  and  customs  of  the  mo- 
dern Greeks,  398,  399.  Contrast  between  the 
different  states  of  ancient  Greece,  ii.  2.  Re- 
marks on  the  patriotism  of  the  ancient  Greeks, 
3.  Their  superiority  in  arts  and  sciences,  4. 
Prevalence  of  religious  dissensions  among  the 
modern  Greeks,  13.  State  of  the  Greek 
clergy,  1 4.  Defects  in  the  character  of  the 
modern  Greeks  accounted  for,  15.  Account 
of  their  music,  17 — 20;  and  national  dances, 
21,22.  Marriage  procession  of,  23.  Their 
games,  37 — 10.  Anciently  subject  to  vol- 
canoes, 127,  128.  Account  of  the  birds  of 
Greece,  40 — 44.  Reptiles,  44,  45.  Insects, 
45—47. 

Gulf  of  Corinth,  various  appellations  of,  i.  1 1 1 , 
1  1 2.     Voyage  up  it  to  Galaxldi,  124—130. 

Gymnasium  of  Ptolemy,  i.  37  1. 


II. 


Hadrian,  arch  of,  at  Athens  described,  i.  385, 
386.  Inscription  thereon,  387.  Bridgeof,  40S. 

Halai  Aixonides,  ruins  of,  i.  556. 

Halcyonian  gulf  notice  of,  ii.  181. 

Haliartos,  ruins  of,  described,  i.  248 — 251. 

Hands,  Greek  mode  of  washing  before  meals,  i. 
156. 

Helicon,  (Mount)  hot  springs  on,  i.  245.  De- 
scription of  it,  259,  260. 

Helleniho-Kastro ,  ruins  of  an  ancient  citv  at,  ii. 
369. 

Herahleia  (city),  notice  of,  ii.  73. 

Herculean  ant,  described,  ii.  47. 

Hercules  and  Deianira,  the  fable  of,  probably  a 
poetic  adumbration  of  the  eruption  of  a  vol- 
cano, ii.  126,  127. 

Herodes  Atticus,  theatre  of,  described,  i.  297, 
298  ;  villa  of,  527. 

Hills  of  Attica,  i.  516,  517. 

Homer,  conjectured  to  have  been  a  native  of 
Ithaca,  i.  66. 

Honey  of  Mount  Hyinettos,  i.  480. 

Hospitality  of  the  inhabitants  of  Attica,  i.  519. 
Of  a  Turk  to  the  author,  ii.  289.  Gifts  of, 
anciently  made,  ibid. 

Hot  springs  of  the  pass  of  Thermopylae,  account 
of,  ii.  69,  70. 

Houses  of  the  Turks,  interior  of  described,  i.  151, 
152.  Of  the  modern  Greeks,  155,  156.  Spe- 
cimen of  one  at  Libadea,  21 1 . 

Hyampeia, rock  of,  near  Delphi,  described,  i.  17-1 . 

Hy/e,  or  Hylika  (lake),  account  of,  ii.  53,  54. 

Hymettos,  Mount,  described,  i.  479.  Celebrated 
for  its  honey,  480.  Villages  in  its  vicinity, 
43 1 .  Monastery  of  Asomatos,  ibid.  Notices 
of  villages  and  antiquities  on  this  moun- 
tain, 482,  483.  Excursion  to  its  summit, 
483,  484.     Ruins  of  an  ancient  city  there. 


528 


INDEX. 


described,  4S  1.     Account  of  (he  monastery  of 
Sergiani,  485 — 1-88.     Ascent  to  the  summit, 
48:).  '  Description  of  the  view  thence,  WO — 
*96. 
Hypericin  fountain  described,  ii.  93,  94. 


I. 


Ibrahim,  the  author's  Musulman  servant,  cha- 
racter of,  ii.  167. 

Icarios,  mount,  i.  514. 

Ilissos  (river),  course  of,  i.  468,  469,  472 — 1-75. 
Remains  on  its  banks,  470 — 472. 

Illyria,  coast  of,  described,  i.  26. 

Inachos  (river),  account  of,  ii.  223. 

Inscriptions  (ancient),  were  sometimes  changed, 
i.  31 1 .  Accounts  or  transcripts  of  various  in- 
scriptions:— At  Cattaro,  i.  16.  At  Corfu, 
34 — 36,  ii.  503 — 506.  At  Pelika,  near 
Athens,  i.  35.  At  Galaxidi,  131.  At  Del- 
phi, 132,  ii.  507 — 511.  In  the  acropolis 
at  Athens,  i.  318.  Near  the  bazar,  377, 
379.  And  in  the  cathedral,  3S0,  381.  On 
one  of  the  modern  gates  of  Athens,  383,  3S4. 
On  the  arch  of  Hadrian,  387.  Near  the  temple 
of  Jupiter  Olympios,  391.  On  the  monument 
of  Philopappos,  392.  Near  the  Musaeum,  400. 
On  the  Pnyx,  402—404.  In  the  Athenian 
churches,  412.  In  the  sepulchres  near  the 
gate  Dipulon,  413.  On  lead,  found  in  a  sepul- 
chre, 452.  On  various  sepulchral  vases,  45 1 , 
454,  455,  457.  On  Mount  Anchesmos,  515. 
At  the  promontory  of  Snnium,  545.  In  the 
cave  of  Pan,  55  1 — 553.  Near  Kakasialasi,  ii. 
53.  In  the  vale  of  Tempo,  113.  At  Thau- 
makia,  124.  At  Tithoraia,  13S.  On  missile 
weapons,  160,  161.  On  a  votive  rock  near 
Eleusis,  170.  At  Eleusis,  174.  Near  the 
ruins  of  the  theatre  of  Argos,  217.  In  the  La- 
rissa  at  Argos,  221.  At  Nanplia,  218.  At 
Tioezen,  270.  At  Methana,  282,  283.  At 
Sicyon,  295.  At  Olenos,  3 1 0,  3  1  I .  At  Mes- 
sene,  365.  At  Megalopolis,  376.  Near  the 
Eurotas,  400.  At  Sparta,  405.  From  Corfu, 
503.  From  the  ruins  of  Delphi,  507.  From  the 
ruins  of  Ambrysos,  in  Phocis.  512.  From 
Libadea,  in  Boeotia,  ibid.  At  Leuka,  near 
the  ruins  of  Thespeia,  513.  At  Eremo-Kas- 
tro,  ibid.  From  the  ruins  of  Thisbe.in  Boeotia, 
I  I.  From  the  island  of  Tenos,  5  I  S.  From 
Mitylene,  in  the  island  of  Lesbos,  519,  520. 

insects  of  Attica,  notice  of,  ii.  45 — 1-7. 

Instruction  (mutual),  practised  in  Greece,  in 
1669,  i.  90,  91. 

Interment,  observations  on  various  modes  of, 
i.  431. 

Isola  Orossa,  or  Lunga,  notice  of,  i.  6. 

Imm,  (Jiadie  Lissa,  island)  ancient  coins  of, 
noticed,  i.  7,  note  7. 


Isthmus  of  Corinth,  account  of,  ii.  183,  184. 
Remains  of  the  great  loss  and  isthmian  walls, 
181-,  185,  186. 

Italian  compliment,  insincerity  of,  ii.  15. 

Ithaca,  (island)  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i.  62. 
Its  size  and  population,  ibid.  Approach  to, 
accurately  described  by  Homer,  63.  Mount 
Neritos,  ibid.  Panoramic  view  from  the  hill 
Aitos,  64,  65.  Description  of  ancient  ruins 
in  this  island,  66,  67.  Ancient  sepulchres, 
68.  Fountain  of  Arethusa,  69,  70.  Coins 
of  Ithaca,  7  1.  Singular  interview  of  the 
author  here  with  some  Albanian  robbers, 
72,  74. 

Ithome,  (village)  ii.354.  Castle  there  occupied 
by  robbers,  354,  315.  Remains  of  a  temple 
on  Mount  Ithome,  359.  Account  of  the  an- 
cient town  of  Ithome,  360 — 362.  Panorama 
from  the  summit  of  Mount  Ithome,  363,  364. 


Japydia,  boundaries  of,  denned,  i.  3. 

Jews,  flagitious  conduct  of,  at.  Patra,  i.  1 13. 

John  (St.)  column  of,  at  Athens,  379.  Mo- 
nastery of,  523. 

Jupiter  Ithomates,  anniversary  festival  in  honor 
of,  ii.  362. 

Jupiter  Olympios,  temple  of,  at  Athens,  de- 
scribed, i.  38S — 390.  Inscription  near  it, 
391.  Remains  of  his  temple  at  Olympia,  ii. 
331 — 336. 

Jupiter  Panhellenios,  ruins  of  the  temple  of, 
described,  i.  567 — 572.  Observations  on  its 
sculpture,  572. 


Kachales,  (river)  notice  of,  ii.  139. 
Kiiihiltulo-Kastro,  ruins  at,  described,  ii.  3S2. 
Kadmeia,  or  citadel  of  Thebes,  account  of,   i. 

262,  'J63. 
Kahtiba,  an  immersed  island  among  the  Echi- 

nades,  i.  10S. 
Kakasialasi,  inscription  near,  ii.  53.     Beautiful 

view  thence,  52. 
Kalabryta,  (town)  notice  of,  ii.  447.    Character 

of  its  inhabitants,  ibid.     Ancient  ruins  there, 

44.-;. 
Kal&mo,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  6 1 . 
Ka'auria,  island  of,  ii.  276.     Remains  of  a  tern- 
pie  of  Neptune  there,  276,  277. 
Kalbas,  how  prepared,  i.  144. 
Kallhrrhoe,  fountain  of,  i.  472. 
Kamares,  khan  of,  ii.  299. 
Kumari,  village  of,  i.  245. 
Kameni/za,  (river,  the  ancient  Peiros)  course  of, 

ii.  309,  310. 


INDEX. 


529 


Kapourna,  (the  ancient  Chaeroueia)  inhospitable 

reception  of  the  anthor  at,  i.  219,  220. 
Karitena,  (town)  present  state  of,  ii.  3S0,  3S1. 
Kasha,  village  of,  i.  502. 
Kassotis,  fount  of,  described,  i.  174,  175. 
Kastalian  spring,  description  of,  i.  172 — 174, 

and  of  some  ancient  sepulchres  near  it,  194. 

195. 
Kastri,  village  of,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i. 

165.     Commendatory  letter  to  the  papas  of, 

ibid.    Approach  to  this  village  described,  166, 

Manners  and  habits  of  its  inhabitants,  169, 

170. 
Kalabathra,  or  outlets  of  various  lakes,  notices 

of,  i.  240,  241.     Of  the  lake  Kopais,  236— 

240. 
Kenchreia  (port),  ii.  193,  191.     Description  of 

the  bath  of  Helena  in  its  vicinity,  194,  195. 
Kerata,  (mount)  described,  ii.  175. 
Keratea,  village  of,  i.  533. 
Khaviar,  how  prepared,  i.  143. 
Kirra,  situation  of,  ascertained,  i.  1 60. 
Kirphis,  (mount)  visit  of  the  author  to,  i.  1 86. 

Cave  in  it  described,  186,  187. 
K/eisoura,  (village)  described,  ii.  353.     Origin 

of  its  name,  ibid.     Vestiges  of  an  ancient  city 

near  it,  ibid. 
Kleitor,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  443.     Character 

of  its  inhabitants,  444.     Coins  of,  ibid.     No- 
tice of  its  river,  444,  445. 
Kleonai,  ruins  of,  ii.  206. 
Knemides,  or  boots  of  the  ancient  Greeks  and 

modern  Arnauls  described,  i.   1.37,  were   of 

various  kinds,  138. 
Kohla,  (village)  notice  of,  i.  276. 
Kolias,  (cape)  notice  of,  i.  428. 
Kondoiira,  (village)  notice  of,  i.  2S5. 
Kopai,  ruins  of,  account  of,  ii.  56. 
Kopais,   (lake)   account  of,  i.  234,  235,  237, 

238,  and  of  its  katabathra,   or  outlets,  238 

— 240.     Notice  of  rivers  near  this  lake,  246. 
Kopais,  plain  of,  i.  236. 

Koroneia,  ancient  remains  at,  described,  i.  247. 
Korydallos,  (mount)  notice  of,  i.  508. 
Krabata,  (village)  ruins  near,  ii.  244. 
Krathis,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  301. 
Krestina,  (village)  ruins  near,  ii.  343. 
Krissa,  see  Krisso. 
Krisscean  plain,  extent  of,  i.  159.     Its  present 

state,  161. 
Krisso,  (the  ancient  Krissa)  present  state  of,  i. 

158.     Opinions  of  ancient  authors  relative  to 

its  position,  159,  160. 


Lachrymatories,  ancient,  described,  i.  455. 
Lagosta,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  13. 
Lalla,  (town)  notice  of,  ii.  341,  and  note. 


VOL.   II. 


Lamia,  coins  of,  ii.  76.  Notice  of  its  ancient 
remains,  78. 

Lancasterian  method  of  instruction  known  in 
Greece  150  years  ago,  i.  90. 

Land-tortoise,  natural  history  of,  ii.  145,  146. 

Langia,  fount  of,  ii.  208. 

Language,  vitiated  state  of,  at  Athens,  ii.  16. 

Larisos,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  314.  Notice  of  a 
celebrated  battle  fought  in  its  vicinity,  ibid. 

Larissa,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  ii.  98.  Un- 
courteous  reception  by  the  Greek  archbishop, 
99.  Insolence  of  the  Turks  there,  ibid.  Sketch 
of  the  history  of  this  town,  100.  Its  present 
state,  101.  Ancient  carts  still  used  there,  102. 

Larissa,  one  of  the  citadels  of  Argos,  notice  of, 
ii.  220.  Copy  of  an  ancient  inscription  found 
there,  221. 

Larissa  Kremaste,  ruins  of,  ii.  SI. 

Latirion,  (mount)  described,  i.  478.  Its  silver 
mines,  536,  ii.  7.  Ruins  of  the  town  of  Lau- 
rion,  i.  536. 

Lechevalier  (Mons.),  acknowledgment  of  the  au- 
thor to,  ii.  468. 

Leontari,  (village)  ruins  at,  ii.  397,  398. 

Lepreos,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  347,  348. 

Lenta,  (lake)  present  state  of,  ii.  225. 

Le  Roys  works,  strictures  on,  i.  292. 

Lesbos  (island),  copy  of  inscriptions  in,  ii.  519, 
5W. 

Lesstna,  (island)  arrival  at,  i.  7.  Its  general 
appearance,  8.  Description  of  its  capital, 
ibid.     Curious  plants  growing  on  this  island, 

8,  9.     Account  of  the  festival  of  St.  Prospero, 

9,  10.      Ancient    name  and   history  of  this 
island,  10. 

Leucadia,  (island)  account  of,  i.  49,  50. 

Leucadian  peninsula,  account  of,  i.  48,  49. 

Leucadian  promontory  described,  i.  51 — 53. 

Lcucas,  ruins  of,  i.  5  1. 

Leuha,  in  Bceotia,  copv  of  an  inscription  at,  ii. 
513. 

Leuhimmo,  a  province  of  Corfu,  notice  of,  i.  39. 

Leuhtra,  site  of,  i.  261. 

Leuhtron,  probable  site  of,  ii.  39S 

Libadea,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i.  21  1.  Resin  • 
ous  wine  of,  212.  Climate  of,  unhealthy, 
213.  Depopulated  by  the  plague,  ibid.  Ac- 
count of  the  ravages  of  locusts,  213 — 215. 
Origin  of  its  name,  216.  Oracular  cavern  of 
Trophonius  near,  216 — 218.  Ancient  ruins 
at  Libadea,  219.  Copy  of  an  inscription  at, 
512.  List  of  villages  in  the  district  of,  484 — 
486. 

Libadostro,  (gulf)  ii.  181. 

Libanatis,  (village)  notice  of,  ii.  59.  Ruins  in 
its  vicinity,  60. 

Ligurio,  (village)  ruins  at  and  near,  described, 
ii.  255,  254. 

Lilaa,  ruins  of,  ii.  133. 

Lion,  colossal  marble,  notice  of,  i.  524.     Lions, 

3   Y 


530 


INDEX. 


why  numerous  in  Attica,  ibid.     Supposed  den 

of  the  Nemean  lion,  ii.  207.     The  gate  of  the 

lions  at  Mycenae  described,  238 — 241. 
Lipar'i  islands,  notice  of,  ii.  4(32. 
Lissa  (island)  notice  of,  i.  7,  and  note  7. 
Livy's  description  of  the  vale  of  Tempe,  ii.  115, 
I.isard,  Greek,  described,  ii.  44. 
Locrian  coast,  described,  ii.  (31,  02.     Beauty  of 

the  scenery,  03,  04. 
Locusts,  account  of  the  ravages  of,  at  Libaden, 

i.  213 — 215.     Some  species  of  them  eaten  as 

food,  214. 
Logotheti,  (John)  archon  of  Libadea,  notice  of, 

i.  211.     Letter  of,  to  the  author,  exhibiting  a 

specimen  of  the  best  modern  Greek  style,  ii. 

500.     Translation  thereof,  501. 
Lolium,  abundance  of,  in  the  corn  of  Attica,  ii. 

1  I. 
Longaki,  (village)  account  of,  ii.  64,  65. 
Lophis,  (river)  course  of,  i.  248. 
Lover's  Leap,  near  the  Leucadian  promontory, 

described,  i.  52,  53. 
L'jcceon,  (Mount)  ascent  to,  described,  ii.  39  I . 

Extensive   panorama   from  its   summit,  392, 

393. 
Lycceum  at  Athens,  vestiges  of,  i.408. 
Lykosoura,  fruitless  search  in  quest  of,  ii.  37  9. 

Description  of  its  ruins,  395,  396. 
l.ysikrates,  tomb  of,  i.  289,  390. 


M. 


Mad  dog,  fabulous  remedy  for  the  bite  of,  ii. 
451. 

Mada,  a  modern  Greek  game,  notice  of,  ii.  39. 

Madonna  de  Risi,  chapel  of,  i.  14. 

Magic  ceremonies  of  some  Turkish  women  de- 
scribed, i.  390,  397  ;  and  of  the  modern 
Greeks,  398,  399.  Magic  cave  on  the  bank 
of  the  llissos,  469,  470. 

Mainalion,  (Mount)  notice  of,  ii.  418. 

Mainalos,  (town)  notice  of,  ii.  418. 

Mainiotes,  notice  of,  ii.  414. 

Makaria,  (fountain)  notice  of,  ii.  162,  103. 

Makrai  Petrai,  and  original  entrance  to  the  acro- 
polis of  Athens,  described,  i.  303. 

Mafia,  coins  of,  ii.  76. 

Mahala,  village  of,  ii.  82. 

Mau'hc,  (goddesses)  ruins  of  the  temple  of,  ii. 
37(i. 

Mantineia,  plain  of,  ii.  421.  Description  of  the 
ruins  of  Mantineia,  422 — 12  1. 

Mantis,  a  species  of  Greek  insect,  described,  ii. 
46. 

Marathon,  (Mount)  i.  514. 

,  plain  of,  account  of,  ii.  158.  De- 
scription of  antiquities  found  there,  159 — 
162. 

Marble,  Pirssan  quarries  of  described,  i.  429.  Of 


Mount  Pentelikon,  499,  500.     Observations 
on  the  different  kinds  of  Grecian  marble,  501. 

Marriage  procession,  Albanian,  described,  ii.  23, 
24. 

Masks,  ancient,  delineated,  i.  445. 

Maura,  see  Santa  Maura. 

Mauro-Bouna,  (village)  ruins  near,  ii.  314. 

Meals,  customs  of  the  modern  Greeks  at,  i.  156, 
157. 

Measures  of  distance  in  Greece,  remarks  on,  i. 
vii.  viii. 

Megalo-Moulchi,  ruins  near,  ii.  147. 

Megalopolis,  plain  of,  ii.  369,  370.  Panorama 
from  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of  Megalo- 
polis, 370. 

Megara,  plain  of,  ii.  176.  Present  state  of  the 
town  of  Megara,  177.  Vestiges  of  the  ancient 
city,  177 — 179.  Devastations  committed 
there  at  various  times,  17  8.  Extensive  views 
thence,  1 80.     Coins  of,  ibid. 

Megaris,  territory  of,  account  of,  ii.  179. 

Megaspelia,  (monastery  of)  arrival  of  the  au- 
thor at,  ii.  44S.  Description  of  its  situation, 
449,  450. 

Melas,  (river)  course  of,  i.  234.  Ancient  legend 
relative  to  a  supposed  property  of  its  waters, 
242. 

Melt  da,  island  of,  i.  12. 

Menelaian  hills  near  Sparta,  notice  of,  ii.  409, 
410. 

Mera,  village  of,  i.  210. 

Mertese,  (village)  ii.  196.  Account  of  ancient 
sepulchres  in  its  vicinity,  197.  Description 
of  an  ancient  funereal  vase  obtained  there, 
197 — 200. 

Mesaloggion,  a  town  of  ^Etolia,  arrival  of  the 
author  at,  i.  88.  Its  present  state,  SS — 91. 
Commerce,  92,  93.  Lofty  titles  of  the  Greek 
archbishops,  93.  Dress  of  the  women,  94. 
Visit  to  an  ancient  city  near  Mesaloggion,  95, 
96.  Description  of  its  ruins,  96 — 100.  ii.  158 
Description  of  a  fisherman's  cot  near,  459. 

Messene,  ruins  of,  ii.  365,  366. 

Methana,  promontory  of  described,  ii.  272 — 281. 
Ancient  and  present  state  of  the  city  of,  280, 
281.     Ruins   of  the   ancient  city,  2S2.     In- 
scriptions there,  282,283.     Coins,  283. 
Mezzo,  a  province  of  Corfu,  notice  of,  i.  39. 
Milanion  ami  Atalanta,  story  of,  i.  448. 
Minerva,   temple  of,   at   Athens,    described,    i. 
353 — 357.     Ruins  of  the  temple  of  Minerva 
Sunias,  512 — 544.     Temple  of  Minerva  Kra- 
naia,  ii.  141,  142.     Of  Minerva  Aha,  ii.  419. 
Minyas,  treasury  of,  described,  i.  228 — 230. 
Miraka,  village  of,  described,  ii.  336,  337. 
Mirrors  of  the  ancients,  composition  of,  i.  433. 
Misithra,  (town)   history  of,  ii.  401.     Ancient 
inscriptions  and  ruins  at,  402.     Description 
of  the  ruins  of  Sparta  in  its  vicinity,  403  -— 106. 
Missile  weapons,  inscriptions  on,  ii.  101. 


INDEX. 


531 


Mitylene,  copies  of  inscriptions  at,  ii.  519,  520. 

Mvijita  and  |U,n)(X£(0v,  import  of,  i.  261. 

Monastery  of  Asomatos,  on  Mount  Hymettos,  i. 
481.  Of  Sirgiani,  485 — 488.  Of  St.  John, 
523.  Of  Phaineromene,  578 — 580,  Of 
Daphne,  ii.  169.  Account  of  a  deserted  one 
near  Mount  Ithome,  359.  Of  Megaspelia, 
448,  449.     Of  Taxiarchi,  450. 

Money,  current  in  Greece,  notice  of,  ii.  493. 

Monolithal  edifices  in  the  east,  notice  of,  i. 
320. 

Monoscylon,  or  boat  of  ancient  and  modern 
Greece,  described,  ii.  340. 

Monte  Bianco,  description  of,  i.  13,  14. 

Monte-Negro  or  Czerna  Goria,  territory  of,  i. 
1 8.  Probably  part  of  the  range  of  the  ancient 
Scordian  Mountains,  ibid.  Its  appearance  and 
population,  1 9.  Character  and  manners  of 
the  Monte-Negrines,  ibid.  20,21.  Severity 
of  their  laws,  20.  Dress  of  the  inhabitants, 
21. 

Monument  of  Lysikrates,  described,  i.  289,  290. 
Of  Thrasyllos,  299—302.  Of  Philopappos, 
392,  393. 

Mora,  a  modern  Greek  game,  described,  ii.  37. 

Morea,  castle  of,  i.  125,  126. 

Morlachia,  mountains  of,  i.  5,  6.  Manners  of 
their  inhabitants,  5. 

Mosaic  pavement,  ancient  Greek  one,  described, 
i.  147,  148. 

Mosques  (Turkish),  structure  of,  described,  i. 
94. 

Mountains  of  Attica,  i.  478.  Description  of 
Laurion,  ibid.  Hymettos,  478 — 496.  Pen- 
telikon,  497 — 501.  Parnes,  502— 508.  Kory- 
dallos,  508.  Aigaleos,  510 — 513.  Brilessos, 
514.  Ikarios,  514  Marathon,  514.  An- 
chesmos,  515,  516. 

Mountains  of  Morlachia,  notice  of,  i.  5,  6.  The 
Acroceraunian,  22 — 25.  Of  Epiros,  28 — 43. 
Boidia,  the  ancient  Panachaikos,  114.  Par- 
nassos,  130,  171.     Lycseon,  ii.  391,  392. 

Mounychia,  port,  described,  i.  425,  426. 

Muezzins,  convocation  of,  i.  509,  510,  note. 

Musaum  at  Athens,  present  state  of,  i.  393. 
Beautiful  and  extensive  view  thence,  394, 
395. 

Music  of  the  modern  Greeks,  account  of,  ii.  17 
— 20.  List  of  musical  instruments  at  present 
used  in  Attica,  491. 

Musulmans,  rigour  of,  in  observing  their  fasts, 
ii.  166,  167. 

Mycence,  arrival  at,  i.  229.  Description  of  the 
treasury  of  Atreus  there,  230 — 234.  Of  the 
citadel,  235.  Probable  extent  of  the  ancient 
walls,  235,  236.  Vestiges  of  ancient  trea- 
suries, 236,  237.  Description  of  the  gate  of 
the  lions,  238 — 241,  and  of  the  acropolis, 
241.     The  Cyclopian  walls  of  Mycenae,  243. 

Myhalessos,  probable  site  of,  ii.  149.  Coin  of,  ibid. 

3  Y 


N. 


Naupaktos  or  Nepaktos,  (town)  present  appear- 
ance of,  i.  128. 

Nauplia,  present  state  of,  ii.  246.  Its  com- 
merce, 247.  Vestiges  of  its  ancient  edifices, 
247.  Ruins  between  this  place  and  Ligurio, 
253,  254. 

Nautilus,  (fish)  notice  of,  ii.  463.  Beautifully 
described  by  Oppian,  464. 

Neda,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  349.  Its  sources, 
389. 

Negroponte,  the  capital  of  Eubcea,  account  of, 
ii.  151. 

Nekropolis  of  the  Piraeus,  described,  i.  430. 

Nemea,  plain  of,  ii.  205.  Supposed  den  of  the 
Nemean  lion,  207.  Fount  of  Langia,  208. 
Remains  of  a  Doric  temple  there,  209.  Other 
ruins  there,  210.  Present  state  of  Nemea, 
210,  21  l.     Cave  of  the  Nemean  lion,  213. 

Neptune,  temple  of,  at  Athens,  described,  i.  347 
— 352.  In  the  island  of  Kalauria,  ii.  276, 
277. 

Neso  (island)  notice  of,  ii.  125. 

Nicopolis,  ruins  of,  i.  56. 

Niscea,  ruins  of,  ii.  179. 


O. 


Odeion  of  Regilla  at  Athens  described,  i.  297, 
298. 

Oeniadai,  ancient  ruins  of,  i.  96 — 100.  Cop- 
per coins  of,  101. 

Oeta,  (Mount)  described,  ii.  74,  75.  Coins  of, 
76.  The  catastrophe  of  Hercules,  fabled  to 
have  taken  place  on  this  mountain,  probably 
a  poetical  story  of  a  volcano,  126,  1 27. 

Die,  probable  ruins  of,  i.  565. 

Olenos,  (city)  ruins  of,  ii.  310. 

Oligyrtos,  pass  of,  described,  ii.  430.  431. 

Olympia,  plain  of,  ii.  328.     Its  present  name, 

333.  Beautiful  views  of  it,  338.  Description 
of  ancient  armour  found  there,  329 — 332. 
Ruins   of  the  ancient  city  of  Olympia,  333, 

334.  Remains  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Olym- 
pios,  334 — 33(i. 

Olympos,  (Mount)  described,  ii.  105,  106. 

Onchestos,  ruins  of,  ii.  147. 

Oneian  mountains,  ii.  181,  182. 

Opous,  ruins  of,  ii.  58. 

Orchomenos,  ruins  of,  i.  227.  ii.  426,  427. 
Treasury  of  Minyas,  i.  227 — 230.  Remark- 
able sundial,  231.  Probable  site  of  the  tem- 
ple of  the  Graces  at  Orchomenos,  231,  232. 
Coins  obtained  there,  232.  Account  of  the 
Lake  Kopais  in  its  vicinity,  233 — 240.  Plain 
of,  ii.  425.  History  of  the  ancient  city,  425 
—427. 

Oropos,  ruins  of,  ii.  156. 

Oros,  a  province  of  Corfu,  notice  of,  i.  39. 

2 


532 


INDEX. 


Orthography  of  places  in  modern  Greece,  re- 
marks on,  i.  v.  vi.  Of  certain  Greek  and 
Turkish  words,  according  to  some  modern 
authors,  ii.  473. 

Os.ia,  (Mount)  ruins  near,  ii,  1  04. 

Ovid,  illustrations  of,  i.  485. 

Owls,  varieties  of,  at  Athens,  ii.  43. 


Pagasaan  guff,  ii.  84. 

Pagasai,  ruins  of,  ii.  87. 

Pago,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  5. 

Painting  of  temples  and  statues,  observations  on, 
i.  343,  344  ;  and  on  the  painted  ornaments  of 
the  Parthenon,  332  ;  and  of  the  Theseion,  or 
temple  of  Theseus,  305. 

Palaio-Braona,  village  of,  i.  529. 

Paluio-Epishopi,  ruins  near,  ii.  270,  271 — 419. 

Palaio-Phanari,  ruins  near,  described,  ii.  341, 
3.42. 

Palaiopuli,  (village)  seated  on  the  ruins  of  Elis, 
ii.  316      Description  of  them,  317,  3 IS. 

Paldma,  (Gregorio)  a  learned  school-master  of 
Mesaloggion,  notice  of,  i.  89,  90. 

Pan,  cave  of,  at  Athens,  described,  i.  304,  530 
On  Mount  Rapsana,  550 — 554.  Near  the 
Marathonian   plain,  ii.    1 62. 

Panachaihos,  (Mount)  described,  i.  114.  Ha- 
zardous journey  of  the  author  across,  ii.  453. 
—457. 

Panathenaic  procession,  sculptured  represen- 
tation of,  i.  336,  337. 

stadium  described,  i.  408 — 410. 

Pandroseion,  in  the  acropolis  of  Athens,  de- 
scribed, i.  352 — 357. 

Panhellenion,  (Mount)  remarkable  cavern  in,  i. 
5ii(i.  Description  of  the  ruins  of  the  temple 
of  Jupiter  Panhellenios  there,  567 — 572. 

Panopeus,  ruins  of  described,  i.  208 — 210. 

Paramathea,  (town)  notice  of,  i.  45. 

Parga,  town  of,  i.  46.  Character  and  manners 
of  the  Pargiotes,  47. 

Parian  quarries,  notice  of,  i.  501. 

Parnassos,  (Mount)  appearance  of,  from  Galax- 
Idi,  i.  130.  Description  of  it,  171;  and  of 
the  Kastalian  spring  there,  172 — 174.  Notice 
of  rocks  detached  from  this  mountain,  189. 
Explanation  of  some  of  its  ancient  names,  184, 
Fine  view  of  this  mountain  from  Daulis,  200. 

Panics,  (Mount)  described,  i.  502.  Village  of 
Kasha  thereon,  ibid.  Castle  of  Phyle,  503. 
504.  Visit  to  a  sacred  cavern  on  Mount 
Panics,  501- — 500. 

Parora,  ii.  401 . 

Parthenon  at  Athens,  Impressions  of  the  author 
in  entering  this  edifice,  i.  321.  Remarks  on 
its  late  spoliations,  322,  324,  331.  Indigna- 
tion of  the  Athenians  at  them,  323.    Alike  re- 


spected by  Greeks  and  Turks,  325.  Present 
state  of  the  Parthenon,  329,  333,  344.  Its 
painted  ornaments,  332;  and  sculpture,  333 
— 340.  Armour  anciently  suspended  there, 
341.  Polychrome  temples  and  statues,  3 1-3, 
344. 

Pasmani,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  6. 

Patra,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i.  112.  Flagi- 
tious conduct  of  some  Jews  and  Albanians 
there,  113.  Its  ancient  and  modern  state, 
114 — 110.  Population,  ibid.  Titles  of  the 
archbishop,  116,  117.  Vestiges  of  Roman 
edifices  there,  117,  118.  Description  of  its 
castle,  118,  119.  Sacred  wall  in  its  vicinity, 
dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  120.  Account  of  a 
great  cypress  tree  in  this  city,  121,  122. 
Number  and  treatment  of  slaves,  122,  123. 
Table  of  distances  from  Patra  to  some  places 
in  the  Morea,  124.  Hazardous  journey  of  the 
author  to,  ii.  453 — 457. 

Patriotism  of  the  ancient  Greeks,  ii.  3. 

Piidiau  islands,  account  of,  i.  46. 

P 01X08,  (island)  described,  i.  46. 

Pedestal,  colossal  inscribed  one  in  the  acropolis 
of  Athens,  i.  311,  312. 

Pciros,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  309,  310. 

Pciros,  or  Pieros,  (city)  ruins  of,  ii.  310. 

Pelasgic plain  described,  ii.  96,  104,  105. 

Pelion,  (Mount)  beautiful  scenery  on,  ii.  89. 
Extensive  view  thence,  92,  93. 

Peljesaz,  peninsula  of,  described,  i.  11,  12. 

Peneios,  (river)  described,  ii.  101,  102,  109, 
1 10.     Its  ancient  names,  111. 

Pentegoulos,  a  modern  Greek  game,  account  of, 
ii.  38. 

Pentelikon,  (mountain)  described,  i.  497,  498. 
Account  of  its  ancient  quarries,  499,  500. 
View  thence,  501. 

Phanuri,  village  of,  ii.  285.  Ruins  of  an  an- 
cient city  there,  286.    Import  of  its  name,  287 . 

Phcedriades  of  Mount  Parnassos,  i.  17  1. 

Phaincromene,  convent  of,  in  the  isle  of  Sa- 
lamis,  i.  578.  Pretended  miraculous  picture 
there,  ibid.  Beautiful  view  of  the  island  from 
this  monastery,  579,  580. 

Phaleron,  a  port  of  Athens,  described,  i.  427. 

Pharsalia  or  Pharsalus,  (town)  present  state  of, 
ii.  120.    Its  ancient  ruins  described,  ibid.  121. 

Pharsalian  plain,  notice  of,  ii.  1 19,  120. 

Plieia,  probable  site  of,  ii.  322. 

Piieneos,  (lake)  described,  ii.  439,  440.  Tradi- 
tions relative  to  its  waters,  441. 

Pheneos  (town)  notice  of,  ii.  436.  And  of  its 
present  ruins,  438.     Coins  of,  438,  439. 

Pherai,  plain  of,  ii.  93. 

,  (town)  sketch  of  the  history  of,  ii.  95. 

Vestiges  of  its  ancient  remains,  ibid. 

Philocrates,  sepulchre  of,  described  and  deli- 
neated, i.  447. 

Philopappos,  monument  of,  described,  i.  392,393. 


INDEX. 


533 


Phliasian  plain,  described,  ii.  212. 

/Wj'o!*.?., conjectures respectingthe  ruins  of,ii.212. 

Phloka,  (village)  described,  ii.  325,  326. 

Phonia,  (village)  ruins  near  described,  ii.  437, 
438. 

Phoron,  (port)  in  Attica,  notice  of,  i.  584,  585. 

Phreattys,  an  Athenian  court  of  justice,  account 
of,  i.  435,  436. 

Phrixa,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  341.  Views 
thence,  342. 

Phyle,  castle  of,  i.  503,  504. 

Piada,  plain  of,  ii  2SP. 

Picture,  pretended  miraculous  one  of  the  Virgin 
Mary,  in  the  island  of  Salamis,  i.  57 S,  579. 

Pilot-fish,  account  of,  ii.  464,  465. 

Pirceus,  way  to,  described,  i.  416.  Ancient 
tumuli  there,  417.  The  long  walls,  419.  In- 
scriptions found  there,  420.  Description  of 
that  port,  420 — 422.  Ancient  Piraean  quar- 
ries, 429.  The  nekropolis  of  the  Piraeus, 
430.  Description  of  the  sepulchres  at  the 
Pirasus,  432.  Copy  of  an  ancient  alphabet, 
from  a  lamina  of  lead  found  there,  ii.  515. 

Pirates  of  the  channel  of  Santa  Maura,  cruelty 
of,  i.  58,  59. 

Pisa,  (town)  probable  site  of,  ii.  326.  Origin 
of  its  name,  327. 

Places,  remarks  on  the  modern  Greek  and 
Turkish  orthography  of,  i.,  v.,  vi.  Comparative 
table  of  ancient  and  modern  names  of,  in 
Greece,  ii.  475 — 4S0. 

Plague,  prevalence  of,  in  Greece,  i.  112,  113. 
Precautions  against  it,  287. 

Plain  of  Chaeroneia,  i.  226.  Of  Kopais,  i.  236. 
The  Thriasian  plain,  285,  280.  Of  Eleusis, 
585.  The  Crocian  plairf,  ii.  84.  Of  Pherai, 
93.  The  Pelasgic  plain,  96.  Of  Pharsalia, 
119,  120.  The  Thessalian  plain,  121,  122. 
Of  Doris,  130.  Of  Delion,  155.  Of  Marathon, 
159—161.  Of  Megara,  176.  Of  Nemea, 
210.  Of  Phlious,  211.  OfArgos,  214.  Of 
Troezen,  267.  OfPiada,289.  OfElis,321. 
Of  Olympia,  328—338.  The  jEpasian  plain, 
347.  'Of  Mantineia,  422.  Of  Orchomenos, 
425.     Of  Suthena,  446. 

Plane-tree,  remarkable,  near  Patra,  ii.  305. 

Plants,  rare  and  curious  notices  of,  at  Lesslna, 
i.  9.  Account  of  those  sculptured  on  the 
Parthenon,  335,  and  of  those  growing  in  the 
acropolis  at  Athens,  359.  On  the  banks  of 
the  llissos,  475. 

Platcea,  ancient  history  of,  i.  277,  27S.  Present 
state  of  its  ruins,  279,  280. 

Plutais,  district  of,  described,  i.  275,  276. 

Plautus,  illustration  of,  i.  520. 

Pleistos  river,  near  Delphi,  accouut  of,  i.  185. 

Pliny's  description  of  the  Vale  of  Tempe,  ii. 
116. 

Pnyx  at  Athens  described,  i.  401.  Votive  offer- 
ings and  inscriptions  found  there,  402 — 405. 


Rock  adjoining  to  it  in  the  form  of  a  human 

figure,  406. 
IloociXia,  a  supposed  musical  fish,  notice  of,  ii. 

445. 
Pola  (town)  ancient  name  of,  i.  3.     Its  present 

state,  ibid. 
Polina,  ruins  of,  i.  23. 
IIoAif,  meaning  of  the  word  ascertained,  i.  295, 

296. 
Pomardi,   (Signior)    acknowledgements   of  the 

author  to,  ii.  457. 
Pontinos,  (Mount)  ii.  228. 
Poros,  town  and  island  of,  described,  ii.  274 — 

276.  Insolence  of  the  Poriotes,  275. 
Portaria,  (village)  notice  of,  ii.  89,  90. 
Portico,  beautiful  Doric,  near  the  Theseiou,  i. 

373. 
Ports  of  Athens  described,  i.  422.    Description 

of  port  Piraeus,  420—422.     Of  Mounychia, 

426.     Of  Phaleron,  427.     Of  Raphte,'  531. 

Of  Anaphlystos,  546,  547.     Phoron,  in  the 

island  of  Psyttalia,  .584,  585. 
Prebeza,  town,  present  state  of,  i.  55. 
Premuda,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  5. 
Promontory    of    Suniuin     described,     i.     539. 

Beautiful  view  thence,  540,  541.     Ruins  of 

the  temple  of  Minerva  Sunias  there,  542,  543, 

544.  Inscription  found  on  this  promontory, 

545.  Of  Methaua,  ii.  272. 

Propylcea  of  the  acropolis  of  Athens,  and  its 

contiguous  buildings,  described,  i.  3 1 3.     The 

frusta  of  the  columns  of  the  propylsea  united 

with  wood,  3 1 4. 
TLpocrKVvuj,  significations  of,  i.  169,  notes. 
Proshyna,  (village)  account  of,  ii.  57. 
Prospero  (St.),  festival  of,  described,  i.  9,  10. 
Protagoras,  kingdom  of,  ii.  84. 
Provisions  of  modern  Greece,  account  of,  i.  143, 

144.     Prices  of  certain  articles  of,  at  Athens, 

ii.  497,  498. 
Psyttalia,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  584,  585. 
Pteleo,  (village)  notice  of,  ii.  83. 
Ptolemaion,  or  gymnasium  of  Ptolemy,  at  Athens, 

i.  371. 
Pylos,  towns  of,  uncertain  situation  of,  ii.  346. 
Pyrgo,  (town)  present  state  of,  ii.  323. 
Pyrgos,  or  Turkish  house,  described,  ii.  337. 
Pyrrhic  dance,  vestiges  of,  in  modern  Greece,  ii. 

22. 


Q. 


Quarries,  Piraean,  described,  i.  429.     Of  Mount 
Pentelikon,  499,  500. 


R. 


Rachisea,  (village)  notice  of,  i.  1 1 . 
Ragusa,  coast  and  city  of,  described,  i.  12. 


534 


INDEX. 


Ramazan,  fast  of,  rigorously  observed  by  the 
Musnlmans,  ii.  166,  167. 

Raphte,  (port)  ancient  name  of,  i.  531.  Ruins 
there,  ibid.  Present  appearance,  .532.  Co- 
lossal statue  there,  ibid. 

Rapsana,  (Mount)  cave  of  Pan  on,  described,  i. 
.551 — 555. 

Regilla,  odeion  of,  at  Athens,  described,  i.  297, 
298. 

Reptiles  of  Attica,  notice  of,  ii.  44. 

Rhizonian  Gulf,  i.  16. 

Rivers  of  Attica,  i.  468.  The  Ilissos,  469 — 475. 
The  Cephissos,  476;  and  Eridanos,  477. 

Rizano,  or  Rizon,  (town)  notice  of,  i.  15,  16. 

Robbery  on  a  grand  scale  in  Greece,  not  con- 
sidered disgraceful,  i.  73,74,  ii.  353.  Ac- 
count of  the  seige  of  some  Greek  robbers  in 
(he  village  of  Alitouri,  355,  356.  And  of 
their  chieftain,  ibid.  Conflict  of  the  author 
ad  his  party  with  some  robbers,  37  I — 374. 

Rock  in  the  form  of  a  human  figure,  i.  406. 

Romuika,  a  modern  Greek  dance,  described,  ii. 
21. 

Romaiko,  singular  bas  relief  at,  described  and 
delineated,  i.  21-2,  243. 

Rontons,  devastations  of,  compared  with  those 
of  the  Turks,  i.  327. 

Rovigno,  (town)  notice  of,  i.  3. 

Ruins,  descriptions  of  j — at  Corfu,  i.  3  4 — 36.  Near 
Mesaloggiou,  96 — 100.  At  Agia  Euphemia, 
14.5.  At  Delphi,  175,  181  — 183.  At  Palaia 
Arakoba,  196,  197.  At  Ambryssos,  199, 
'200.  At  Agios  Blasios,  or  Panopeus,  208, 
209.  At  Libadea,  219.  Of  Chaeroneia, 
220  —  224.  Of  Orchomenos,  227  —  232. 
Of  Haliartos,  24S  — 251.  Of  Thespeia, 
253—257.  Of  Thisbe,  258.  Of  Thebes, 
262—266.  Of  Plataea,  277—  280.  Of  Eleu- 
therai,  283.  Of  Athens,  289—460.  On 
Mount  Hymettos,  482 — 4S4.  On  Mount 
Anchesmos,  516.  Of  Acharnae,  521,  522. 
Near  Cape  Zoster,  525,  526.  Near  Cephissia, 
.528.  Of  Thorikos,  534.  At  Laurion,  538. 
On  the  promontory  of  Suniuni,  542 — 544. 
On  the  Attican  coast,  548.  At  the  village 
of  Bari,  549.  In  the  island  ofi*Egina,  55y 
— 572.  Of  Akraiphnion,  ii.  54,^55.  Of 
Kopai,  56.  Near  Talanda,  59,  60.  Above 
the  pass  of  Thermopylae,  72 — 74.  OfEchinos, 
80.  Of  Larissa  Kremaste,  SI.  Of  Aias, 
86.  Of  Pagasai  and  Demetrias,  87,  88.  Of 
Iolkos,  90—92.  Of  Pherai,  95.  Near  the 
lake  Boebeis,  97.  Near  Mount  Ossa,  104. 
Near  Megalo-Moulki,  147.  Of  Ouchestos, 
ibid.  Of  Teumessos,  148.  Of  Chalcis,  151. 
Of  Eretria,  154.  Of  Oropos  and  Tanagra, 
156.  On  the  Marathonian  plain,  159.  Of 
Lilaea,  133.  Of  an  ancient  city  at  Dadi,  134. 
Of  Drymaia,  135,  116.  Of  f  ithoraia,  138. 
Of  Elateia,  lie,  141.  Near  Elensis,  170, 
17  1.     At  Eleusis,  174.     Of  Megara,  177— 


180.  At  Corinth,  191,  192.  Of  Kleonai, 
206.  At  Nemea,  209,  210.  Of  Argos,  216 
—221.  Of  Mycenae,  229—242.  Near 
Tiryns,  244—246.  At  Tiryns,  248—251. 
At  Nauplia,  247.  Between  Nauplia  and 
Ligurio,  253,  254.  Of  the  sacred  grove  of 
/Esculapius,  256,  257.  Near  Troezen,  265, 
266.  At  Troezen,  268 — 27  1.  In  the  island 
of  Kalauria,  276,  277.  At  Methana,  282. 
At  Phanari,  286.  At  Sicyon,  294 — 297. 
At  .Egira,  298,  299.  At  Aigai,  301.  At 
^Egion,  304,  305.  Of  Olenos  and  Pharai, 
310,311.  OfDyme,  311,  312.  At  Teichos, 
312,313.  Of  Elis,  317,  318.  Of  Olvmpia, 
329—336.  Of  Phrixa,  341,342.  NearKres- 
tina,  343.  Of  Samikon,  344.  Of  Lepreos, 
347,348.  Of  Cyparissiai,  350.  OfMessene, 
365,  306.  Of  Andania,  369.  Of  Megalo- 
polis, 370,  375,  376.  Near  Megalopolis,  377. 
Of  Gortys,  382.  Of  the  temple  of  Apollo-Epi- 
kourios,  385 — 388.  Of  Lykosoura,  394 — 396. 
At  Leontari,  397,  398.  At  Petrlna  and  Agia 
Eirene,  398.  At  Misithra,  401,  402.  Of 
Sparta,  403—406.  Of  Amvklai,  412—414. 
Of  Tegea,  419.  Of  Manti'neia,  422,  423. 
Stymphalos,  435.  At  Phonia,  447,  44b. 
Near  Kalabryta,  45 1 .    Near  Gusumistris,  452. 


Sabioncello,  peninsula  of,  described,  i.  11,  12. 

Sacred  way  near  Eleusis,  ii.  1 69. 

Sakratas,  (river,  the  ancient  Krathis)  course  of, 
ii.  301. 

Salamis,  (island)  voyage  to,  described,  i.  575. 
Remarks  on  its  ancient  topography,  577.  Pre- 
tended miraculous  picture  of  the  Virgin  in  the 
convent  of  Phaineromene,  57  8.  Description 
of  that  convent,  579.  Panorama  of  the  island 
from  thence,  580. 

Salona,  the  ancient  Amphissa,  arrival  at,  i. 
146.  Its  situation,  146,  147.  Ancient  re- 
mains there,  147,  148.  Account  of  a  se- 
pulchral chamber,  1 48.  Population  and  pre- 
sent state  of  Salona,  149.  Its  productions, 
150.  Description  of  the  author's  visit  to  the 
voivode  of  this  place,  151  — 154,  and  to  the 
bishop,  155 — 158.  Villages  in  the  district  of, 
ii.  487. 

Salve,  (island)  notice  of,  i.  5. 

Samikon,  probable  ruins  of,  ii.  344.  Account  of 
this  place,  344,  345. 

So  mo,  city  of,  i.  75. 

Santa  Maura,  voyage  through  the  canal  of,  i. 
44—47,  58,  59.  Arrival  of  the  author  at  the 
island  and  town  of,  48.  Their  present  ap- 
pearance and  state,  50.  Its  population,  53, 
and  produce,  5 '3,  54. 

Saronic  gulf,  grand  view  of,  ii.  279,  280. 

Scqrabeei)  a  species  of  gem  found  in  the  island 
of  .Egina,  description  of,  i.  573. 


INDEX. 


535 


Sculpture  of  the  Parthenon  described,  i.  333 — 
340.  Painted  sculpture  of  the  temple  of 
Theseus,  365.  Remarks  on  the  /Eginetan 
style  of  sculpture,  572,  and  on  the  sculpture 
of  the  mouth  of  an  ancient  well  at  Corinth,  ii. 
203.  Specimen  of  ancient  Egyptian  sculpture 
at  Mycenae,  i.  232. 

Sebenlco,  (a  town  of  Dalmatia)  notice  of,  i.  7. 

Selinos,  (river)  course  of,  ii.  303,  304,  452. 

Sepulchres,  ancient,  in  Ithaca,  notice  of,  i.  68. 
Sepulchral  chamber  near  Salona,  1 4S.  Notices 
of  various  ancient  sepulchres,  163.  Near  the 
Kastalian  spring,  1 94, 1 95.  Near  the  gate  Dipu- 
lon  at  Athens,  415.  Of  the  Piraeus  described, 
432.  Of  the  magistrate  Diodoros,  433 — 436  ; 
and  of  the  magistrates  Anticharmos  and  Dci- 
nias,  437.  Other  sepulchres  at  Athens,  438. 
Of  Theophile,  442.  Of  Philocrates,  447. 
Notices  of  various  articles  found  in  them,  441, 
455.  Ancient  sepulchres  near  the  village  of 
Mertese,  ii.  197. 

Shields,  ancient  structure  of,  i.  3+>.  Were 
suspended  in  the  Parthenon,  341,  342. 

Sicyon,  road  between  and  Corinth  described,  ii. 
293.  Ancient  history  of  this  city,  294.  De- 
scription of  its  ruins,  294 — 296. 

Silver  mines  of  Laurion,  account  of,  i.  536.  ii. 
7. 

Sinano,  ruins  of  Megalopolis  at,  described,  ii. 
370,  375,  376. 

S'.rgiani,  monastery  of,  described,  i.  485 — 4S8. 

Skarmagga  Kyrades,  (islands)  notice  of,  i.  586. 

Skiathos,  (island)  notice  of,  ii.  92. 

Skironian  rocks,  account  of,  ii.  182. 

Shnpelos,  (island)  notice  of,  ii.  92. 

Skripou,  village  of,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i. 
226. 

Slaves,  number  of,  at  Patra,  i.  122.  Their  con- 
dition in  the  east,  123.  Superstition  of  one, 
ibid. 

Snow,  heavy  falls  of,  ii.  415,  416. 

Soffit-drops  of  various  edifices,  delineated,  i.  360. 

Sophocles,  illustrations  of,  i.  413,  414. 

Sparta,  ruins  of,  described,  ii.  403 — 406.  Accu- 
rate account  of  its  situation  by  Polybius,  408. 
Beauty  of  its  surrounding  scenery,  409. 

Spartans,  contrast  between  and  the  Athenians, 
ii.  2. 

Spon's  inaccurate  account  of  the  Pandrose!on,  i. 
353. 

Stables  of  Augeas,  fable  of,  explained,  ii.  321, 
322. 

Stadium,  the  Panathenaic,  described,  i.  408 — 
410. 

Statues,  anciently  consecrated  to  different  per- 
sons, i.  3 1 1 .  Polychrome  statues  of  the  acro- 
polis at  Athens,  343.  Columnar  statues,  354, 
355.  Notices  of  moveable  ones,  439,  440. 
Observations  on  those  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter 
Panhelleuios,  571,  572. 


Stones,  anciently  united  by  means  of  wood,  ':. 
315,  316.  Gigantic  size  of,  used  in  ancient 
edifices,  320.  Account  of  the  ancient  conse- 
crated stones,  ii.  172. 

Storks,  veneration  of  the  Turks  for,  ii.  40,  4 1 . 
Character  of  these  birds,  42. 

Strephoulida,  a  modem  Greek  game,  account  of 
ii.  39. 

Stuart's  works,  strictures  on,  i.  202. 

Stymphalis,  (lake),  notice  of,  ii.  434,  435  ;  and 
of  a  mountainous  pass  in  its  vicinity,  435. 

Stymphalos,  (town)  ancient  history  of,  ii.  43  5. 
Notice  of  its  ruins,  436.  Coins  found  there, 
437. 

Sunium,  promontory  of,  described,  i.  5  39.  Beau- 
tiful view  thence,  540,  541.  Ruins  of  the 
temple  of  Minerva  Sunias,  542  —  544.  Inscrip- 
tion found  there,  545. 

Superstitious  notions  of  the  Athenians,  i.  390. 
Particularly  relative  to  the  Evil  Eye,  ii.  .'  1  — 
38.  Of  the  ancient  Greeks,  one  principal 
source  of  the  riches  of  Greece,  i.  584. 

Suthina,  village  and  plain  of,  ii.  448,  417. 

Stvords,  ancient,  described,  i.   443. 

Sybaris,  cave  of,  described,  i.  1S6,  187. 


Talanda,  (town)  notice  of,  ii.  59.     Ancient  ruins 
in  its  vicinity,  59,  60. 

Tanagra,  ruins  of,  ii.  156. 

Taphian  islands,  account  of,  i.  60. 

Tavemier  s  imperfect  description  of  the  Parthe- 
non, i.  345. 

Taxiarchi,  (monastery)  notice  of,  ii.  -150. 

Taygeton,  (Mount)  view  of,  ii.  352 — 358.     De- 
scription of  it,  410. — Fissures  in  it,  41  !. 

Tchibouks,  or  Turkish  tobacco-pipes,  notice  of, 
i.  152. 

Tegea,    and    its    territory,    described,    ii.     120. 
Coins  of,  ibid. 

Teichos,  ruins  of,  ii.  3 1 2,  3 1 3. 

Teleboian  islands,  account  of,  i.  60. 

Telegraphs,  correspondence  by  means  of,  known 
to  the  ancients,  ii.  2b7,  283. 

Tempe,  vale  of,  approach  to,  ii.  109.     D. 
tion  of  it,  1  10 — 1  17. 

Temple  of  Apollo  at  Delphi,  ancient  histor  oi 
i.  176,  177.  Probable  site  of  the  temple  of 
the  Graces  at  Orchomenos,  231,  232.  Of 
Victory  in  the  acropolis  of  Athens,  i.  312. 
Polychrome  temples,  343.  Were  some 
common  to  several  divinities,  346.  De- 
scription of  the  Erechtheion,  or  temple  of 
Neptune,  348 — 352.  And  of  the  Pandro- 
seion,  and  temple  of  Minerva,  353 — 357. 
Temple  of  Theseus,  362—363.  Of  Jupiter 
Olvmpios,  388,  39 1 .  Of  Ceres,  destroyed,  4 1 0. 
Of  Minerva   Sunias,  542— 54 1-.     Of  Jupiter 


536 


INDEX. 


Panhellenios,  .567 — 572  Of  Ceres  at  Eleusis, 
.583.  Of  Minerva  Kranaia,  ii.  1*1,  1*2. 
Ruins  of  one  near  Eleusis,  170,  171.  Ruins  of 
a  temple  of  Ceres  at  Eleusis,  I74-.  Remains 
of  a  Doric  temple  at  Corinth,  191,  192;  and 
Nemea,  209,  210.  Of  Neptune  in  the  island 
of  Kalauria,  276,  277.  Of  Jupiter  Olym- 
pios,  331 — 336.  Of  one  on  Mount  Ithome, 
359.  Of  the  goddesses  Maniae  at  Sinauo, 
376,  377.  Of  ^Esculapius,  at  Gortys,  3S2. 
Of  the  Amyklaian  Apollo,  413.  Of  Minerva 
Alea,  419. 

Terms,  (island)  copies  of  inscriptions  found  on, 
ii.  518. 

Terra  cotta,  analysis  of,  i.  466.  See  f'ases. 

Tessera  hospitales,  account  of,  i.  519,  5  JO. 

Tettiges  in  the  vicinity  of  Athens,  notice  of,  ii. 
164,  165. 

Tettbe,  described,  ii.  45,  46. 

Teutnessos,  ruins  of,  ii.  148. 

Teuta,  or  Tkeoca,  a  Dalmatian  queen,  notice  of, 
i.  15.     Notice  of  her  capital,  Rizon,  16. 

Thaumakia,  (town)  present  state  of,  ii.  122. 
Beautiful  views  thence,  123.  Ancient  in- 
scription found  there,    124. 

Theatre,  ruins  of,  at  Chaeroneia,  i.  221,  222. 
Of  Herodes  Atticus  at  Athens,  297,  298. 
Of  Thorikos,  536.     At  Argos,  ii.  213,  217. 

Thebes,  approach  to,  i.  261.  Ancient  history  of 
this  city,  262.  Account  of  the  Kadmeia,  or 
citadel,  262,  263.  History  of  Thebes  during 
the  middle  ages,  263.  Attempt  to  ascertain 
the  sites  of  its  ancient  gates,  264 — 266. 
Fountains  of  Thebes,  267,  268.  Modern 
state  of  this  city,  26!).  Dangerous  situation 
of  the  author  here,  270.  Splendour  of  the  The- 
ban  history,  27  1 .  Fine  view  of  the  city,  272. 
Character  of  its  Yoivode,  272,  273.  Coins 
of  Thebes,  274.  Letter  from  the  Voivode  of, 
to  the  Agha  of  Kokla,  276.  List  of  villages 
in  the  district  of,  ii.  488,  489. 

Themistocles,  supposed  tomb  of,  i.  423,  424. 

Theophile,  sepulchre  of,  i.  442. 

Thermopylae,  approach  to  the  pass  of,  ii.  66. 
Beautiful  scenery  near  it,  67.  Description  of 
the  pass,  68 — 7  1 .  Temperature  of  the  ther- 
mal springs  there,  69.  Ruins  of  a  castle  above 
the  pass  described,  72 — 74. 

Theseion,  or  temple  of  Theseus,  at  Athens,  de- 
scribed, i.  362 — 365.  Painted  sculpture  there, 
365.  Sculptured  centaurs,  366,  367.  State  of 
the  Theseion,  36S.  Annual  dance  held  there, 
370.  Inscriptions  found  in  its  vicinity,  37  1, 
372. 

Thespeia,  ancient  history  of,  i.  25  1.  Descrip- 
tion of  its  ruins,  253 — 255.  Situation  of  this 
place,  255,  '256.  Ancient  coins  obtained  here, 
255. 

Thessaly,  journey  through,  ii.  5  1.  Lake  Hyle, 
or   Ilylika,   53,  54.     Ruins  of  Akraiphnion, 


54,55.  OfKopai,  56.  Island  of  Atalante,  or 
Talanda,  58.  Village  of  Libanatis,  59.  Re- 
mains of  an  ancient  city  in  its  vicinity,  60. 
Appearance  of  the  Locrian  coast,  6 1 .  Beauti- 
ful scenery,  62 — 64.  Village  of  Longaki,  64, 
65.  Approach  to  Thermopylae,  66.  Beauti- 
ful scenery  near  it,  67.  Description  of  the 
pass,  68 — 71.  Temperature  of  its  thermal 
springs,  69.  Ruins  of  a  castle  above  the  pass, 
72 — 74.  Description  of  Mount  Oeta,  74,  75. 
Coius  of  Oeta,  Lamia,  and  Malia,  76.  Town 
of  Zetoun,  77.  Remains  of  Lamia,  78.  Of 
Echinos,  79.  80.  Ruins  of  Larissa  Kremaste, 
81.  Villages  of  Makalla,  82;  and  Pteleo, 
83.  Kingdom  of  Protesilaos,  84.  Ruins  of 
Aias,  86.  Town  of  Armiro,  ibid.  Remains 
of  Pagasai  and  Demetrias,  87,  88.  Castle 
and  town  of  Bolo,  89.  Mount  Pelion,  89— 
92.  Ruins  of  Iolkos,  90,  91.  Hyperian 
fountain,  93,  94.  Town  of  Belestina,  95. 
Remains  of  Pherai,  ibid.  Pelasgic  plain,  96, 
104,105.  The  lake  Boebeis,  96,  97.  Arrival 
at  Larissa,  98.  Its  ancient  and  modern  state, 
100 — 102.  The  river  Peneios,  102.  Its 
ancient  and  modern  state,  109 — 1 13.  Ruins 
near  Mount  Ossa,  104.  Description  of 
Mount  Olympos,  105,  106.  Town  of  Ampe- 
lakia,  107,  108.  The  vale  of  Tempe,  1 10 — 
117.  Plain  of  Pharsalia,  119.  Present  state 
of  Pharsalos,  120.  Ruins  of  the  ancient  town 
of  Pharsalia,  120,  121.  Town  of  Thaumakia 
described,  122,  123.  Mount  Oeta,  124 — 126. 
Changes  in  the  name  of  the  country  of  Thes- 
saly,  125.     Its  ancient  divisions,  129,  130. 

Thisbe,  copy  of  an  ancient  inscription  at,  ii.  514. 

Thoreai,  supposed  ruins  of,  i.  548. 

Thrasyllos ,  monument  of  described,  i.  299,  300. 
Represented  on  ancient  coins  and  vases,  301, 
302. 

Thriaiian  plain  described,  i.  285,  286. 

Throne,  ancient,  at  Chaeroneia,  notice  of,  i.  222, 
223. 

Thorikos,  journey  to,  i.  533.  Ruins  of,  534, 
535.     Acropolis  of,  536.     Theatre,  536. 

Tichious,  (fortress)  probable  ruins  of,  described, 
ii.  71—73. 

Tiryns,  ruins  on  the  road  to,  described,  ii.  244, 
245.  Present  state  of  the  ruins  of  this  city, 
249.  Remains  of  its  Cvclopian  walls,  250, 
251. 

Tolelere,  (village)  ruins  near,  ii.  97. 

Tomb  of  Laios,  i.  197,  198.  Of  Themistocles, 
423,  424.  Of  the  magistrate  Diodoros,  433 
— 136.     Of  Anticharmos  and  Deinias,  437. 

Tomitza,  (village)  notice  of  ruins  near,  ii.  61. 

Tortoise,  the  land,  uatural  history  of,  ii.  1 45, 1 46. 

,  the  water,  natural  history  of,  ii.  144, 

145.     Poetical  fable  relative  to  it,  145. 

Travellers,  strictures  on  the  incorrect  accounts 
of,  i.  345. 


INDEX. 


.537 


Travelling  in  Attica,  i.  518,  519,  in  ancient 
times,  530,  531. 

Treasury  of  Atreus,  at  Mycenae,  described,  ii. 
229—234-. 

Tree-frog  described,  ii.  44,  45. 

Tretos,  (mount)  probable  situation  of,  ii.  213. 

Tribunals,  Athenian,  illustrations  of,  i.  433 — 
437. 

Triodon,  a  modern  Greek  game,  notice  of,  ii.  39. 

Triodos,  near  Ambrysos,  notice  of,  i.  197. 

Tripolitza,  arrival  of  the  author  at,  ii.  417.  Ac- 
count of  this  town,  Ibid. 

Troezen,  ruins  on  the  road  to,  described,  ii.  265, 
206.  Plain  of  Troezen,  267.  Ancient  his- 
tory of  this  city,  26S.  Description  of  its 
ruins,  269—271. 

Turks,  cemeteries  of,  in  the  acropolis  of  Athens, 
described,  i.  305.  Respect  the  Parthenon, 
325.  Account  of  ancient  edifices  destroyed 
by  them,  326.  Comparison  between  them 
and  the  Romans,  327.  Despise  dancing,  ii. 
23.  Their  inactivity,  25.  Their  veneration 
for  storks,  40,  41.  Anecdote  of  their  inso- 
lence, 99,  1 00.  Their  rigorous  observance  of 
the  fast  Ramazan,  166,  167.  Their  reve- 
rence for  fools  and  maniacs,  215.  Hospi- 
tality of  one  to  the  author,  289.  Description 
of  a  pvrgos,  or  Turkish  house,  337. 

Turtles,  how  caught  in  the  Mediterranean,  ii. 
462,  463. 

Tzakonhtes,  or  mountaineers  of  Laconia,  cha- 
racter of,  ii.  414. 


U. 


Unguentaries,  alabaster,  described,  i.  449,  450. 


Vo'wode  of  Salona,  account  of  the  author's  visit 
to,  i.  150—15!-.  Of  Thebes,  character  of, 
272,  273. 

Volcanoes,  vestiges  of  in  Greece,  ii.  127,  128. 


\V. 

JValls  of  the  acropolis  of  Athens  described,  i. 
306 — 308.  And  of  Athens  itself,  308,  309. 
Modern  walls  of  Athens,  and  their  gates,  38 1 
— 384.  Traces  of  the  ancient  walls,  385.  The 
walls  of  the  Piraeus,  4 1 8,  419.  Cyclopian  walls 
of  the  acropolis  at  Argos,  ii.  219,  220.  Of 
MyceiiEe,  243.     Of  Tiryns,  250,  25  L 

freights  used  in  Greece,  table  of,  ii.  493. 

Welti  mouth  of  an  ancient  one  at  Corinth,  de- 
scribed, ii.  200 — 204. 

Wheels,  ancient,  described,  i.  441,  442. 

Winds, tower  of  theeight,  described,  i.  373,  374. 

Wine  of  Corfu,  i.  40.  Resinous  wine  of  Li- 
badea,  212. 

Women  (Albanian)  dress  of,  i.  140 — 142. 

(Greek)  veils  of,  ii.  23,  and  note.    State 

of  the  modern  Greek  women,  24.     Particu- 
larly at  Atheus,  ibid.  25. 

Wood,  anciently  used  to  unite  stones,  i.  315. 
Instances  of  stones  so  united,  314,  315. 


Eeinji'a,  Xeniola,  or  Kcnia,  presents  to  travel- 
lers, ii.  289. 

Xerxes,  the  spot  ascertained  whence  he  beheld 
the  defeat  of  his  army,  i.  51 1 — 51  3. 

Xylo-kastro,  ruins  at,  described,  ii.  29S,  299. 


Z. 


Valona,  town  of,  i.  27. 

Vases,  sepulchral,  various,  described,  i.  446, 
447,  451 — 460.  Duplicate  vases,  460,  461. 
Graphic  and  polychrome,  465,  466.  Descrip- 
tion of  an  ancient  funereal  vase,  found  near 
Corinth,  ii.  197—200. 

Veglia,  or  Vegtiuno  (island),  notice  of,  i.  6. 

Veils  of  the  Greek  women,  notice  of,  ii.  23,  and 
note. 

Victory,  temple  of,  in  the  acropolis  at  Athens, 
i.  31*1. 

Vido  (island),  the  ancient  Ptychia, notice  of,i.41. 

Villas  of  the  Athenians,  i.  412.  Of  Herodes 
Atticus,  527. 


Zakunthos  (island),  arrival  of  the  author  at,  i. 
79.  Its  population,  ibid.  Manufactures  and 
produce,  80.  List  of  villages  in  that  island, 
ii.  4S3.  Description  of  its  bituminous  springs, 
i.  81,  82.  Sketch  of  the  history  of  the  town 
and  port  of,  83 — 85.  Mistakes  of  Strabo  and 
Pliny  relative  to  its  dimensions,  SO.  Voyage 
thence  to  Mesaloggion,  87,  88. 

Zara,  the  capital  of  Dalmatia,  notice  of,  i.  6,  7. 

Zetoun  (town),  preseut  state  of,  ii.  77,  78. 
List  of  villages  in  the  district  of,  490,  49 1 . 

Zoster  (cape),  notice  of  some  ruins  near,  i.  525, 
526. 

Zuri  (island)  notice  of,  i.  7. 


VOL.   II. 


3  z 


LONDON : 

MISTED    BY    T.  DAVISON,   WHITKFBIARS 


\T--l°)   \ 
J.  2^